I appreciate that you went over what to do if the jig was not square to the table. It bothers me when youtubers always check for square and then do not say what to do if it is out.
I know this is a fairly old video but I wish I would have watched this before I built my tenon jig. The tip of using masking tape to add a bit of space is brilliant. I'll know to do this next time I build a jig for my table saw fence. Thanks!
Another option with the work piece support, it can be screwed on only, preferably with brass screws, or none lower than your max blade height. The reason not to use glue is the piece is sacrificial and can be shortened to give a fresh face, or replaced as needed.
Similar to mine and it's ancient. However I never glue the upright backing piece as it's sacrificial. I make it a bit longer Once it's been used I drop it down to make fresh cuts as it also prevents tear out. Once it gets too short bin it and fit a new one. Saves having to make another jig. Another little tip for anyone. If you have one of those little digital level boxes. Put the level on the table, zero, firmly clamping the upright bit so you can tap it to move it. Now put the level box on the upright and adjust until it reads dead 90°. Clamp it tight and fit the screw
you are a person after my own heart, I also prefer to make jigs to ease my work instead of waist time on making fancy jigs that'll get waisted any way.
Thanks for sharing your jig build. I must say you explained the steps and reasoning better than most who seem more interested in showing their skills and / or shops. Again thanks for an amazing instructional video.
Keith. Saw this video yesterday & made the jig last night. Very pleased with it. Your tip about masking tape is great. I added a block of wood to square up the far side of the fence - easy to do but probably not necessary. I found a couple of pieces of laminate covered ply for the jig sides - a touch of furniture polish and the jig is a great sliding fit. I am lucky in having an older version of the Charnwood 650 saw which has a great fence system which is micro adjustable and rock solid. Great video presentation
Hi Keith,I have watched this vidio a fewer time's,but never made a comment,it was a very simply made jig,made entirely of scrap material,just one tip,always check that the saw blade is vertical which of course you did.
Colin Askey But when he put the square up to the blade, you could clearly see light at the top. Don't know if the top end was resting on a blade tooth though.
Whenever you make a jig never leave a 90 degree intersection between two joined surfaces. ALWAYS RELIEVE THE INNER CORNER. The reason being that the likelihood of a workpiece fitting exactly into that intersection without a burr,swarf, wood chip, or etc. on the corner of the workpiece is near zero which immediately throws off your work to some degree.
I have the same tablesaw and I was contemplating making a similar jig but with the fence design with the little flip bar I was worried about the jig wiggling around a little bit and I can actually see it wiggle in your video a bit. I think I'm just going to have to remove that flip handle thingy.
Wonder if you ever got the jig to cut better at precise 90 degree? Like the jig. I have the same saw. Can you tell me please how wide the jig is (inside measure) My saw is at the summerhouse (far away)
Hi. Brilliant and so straightforward, will be making one next week.. What is the jig that you have on the table saw that adjusts the horizontal fence? It appears to have a cogwheel track? Is it specific to that saw or is it something that can be added to the saw table.?
if the vertical sheet had only been screwed it would have allowed you to fine tune the squareness with shims. I have a saw similar and the rack and pinion fence is actually a bit of a nuisance. there is some play in the mechanism which causes the leading end of the fence to move before the other end, causing about a mm of difference. I have to remember to turn the fence adjusting knob back a hair to nudge the front end of the fence into alignment and make sure only the front end moves and not accidentally move the far end. it doesn't give me a whole lot of confidence in the squareness of the fence and increases setup time with all the second guessing. maybe the mechanism is worn out.
Great video. I will definitely make one now. One question, what happens if I raise the back support bar to prevent it from being cut while tenon is being cut? So the blade will cut the tenon and pass under the support bar. Any thoughts, please?
Thanks for the video, even better that I have the same saw! The tape shims are a great idea. I see you have changed the blade what type are you using as I think I'd like to change mine to one less rough. Thanks.
I don't cut alot of mortise and tenon. But I like the jig. And would cut the dados on the end bars on beehive frames without any modifications. On your tablesaw. Could you tell me what the useable length of travel is?
Hello. I have the same saw too. I've had a bit of a nightmare getting the blade set up properly. It wasn't parallel to the mitre slots and getting the bevel stop set so the blade is perfectly 90° to the table is also a challenge. Dewalt have not made it easy to make these adjustments, I mean, how can you set the blade parallel to the mitre slots when you have to put the saw on one side to get at the allen screws to move it. would you also agree that the mitre gauge is total garbage? Anyway, I'll have a go at making this jig seeing as you've already done the measurements for me. Like the vids, have subscribed. Thanks.
+Andy Tyrrell luckily I've not had any issues with the blade set up, it was accurate and got to go out of the box. I totally agree about the slack in the mitre gauge it is useless. But so is the one on my bandsaw and the one with my belt sander they're all useless. I really don't know why they can't make them a snug fit!!
You are a skilled and clever workman with out all of the superfluous yammering. Just a tip though, the technical term for glued and screwed is "sclued". 😉
Did you check to see if the large back piece is even square with the table? Looks like there's a pretty decent size gap when you glue it on, even after you attach the clamps (3:17).
I just wondering, in real life does the kerf on your sawblade really matters if you make tenons? I guess the one you use is not full kerf, and i having a hard time to find any full kerf blade.
Depends on how often you use a jig. In some cases when a jig becomes a regular tool in your workshop, i think it worth the effort and even the right material to put into it.
I have the same tablesaw and a similar jig, but I'm not so happy about it. The right side of the fence is thin and wobbly and its causing some play betwen the jig and the fence . Maybe the problem can be solved with a strip of wood on theright side of the thick part of the fence. I havent tried it yet.
I've heard the saying, "Form over function". To me, I don't think that way. I'd rather have something that works well, than to have a pretty wall hanger. The place where form and function meets is when just by making something it just looks good. My point is that I am still going to make those hold down clamps that look like race cars.
Jigs are for function, not fashion, in my opinion. I don't spend a lot of time making my jigs look all pretty either. You jig looks good, should last you quite a few years.
![I'm fully satisfied with this VERTICAL HOLDING JIG that I use most frequently [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xrT5hdw8i9I/mqdefault.jpg)
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
I appreciate that you went over what to do if the jig was not square to the table. It bothers me when youtubers always check for square and then do not say what to do if it is out.
There’s so many different jigs but yours is really simple to make ❤❤❤
Great video.. No graphics or loud music.. Straight to the point and informative.. Great job my man
I know this is a fairly old video but I wish I would have watched this before I built my tenon jig. The tip of using masking tape to add a bit of space is brilliant. I'll know to do this next time I build a jig for my table saw fence. Thanks!
Glad I found this before making mine tomorrow
Thanks for the video! It's motivating to see a jig like this work on a less expensive table saw, especially when I have the same one!
Another option with the work piece support, it can be screwed on only, preferably with brass screws, or none lower than your max blade height. The reason not to use glue is the piece is sacrificial and can be shortened to give a fresh face, or replaced as needed.
Similar to mine and it's ancient. However I never glue the upright backing piece as it's sacrificial. I make it a bit longer Once it's been used I drop it down to make fresh cuts as it also prevents tear out. Once it gets too short bin it and fit a new one. Saves having to make another jig.
Another little tip for anyone. If you have one of those little digital level boxes. Put the level on the table, zero, firmly clamping the upright bit so you can tap it to move it. Now put the level box on the upright and adjust until it reads dead 90°. Clamp it tight and fit the screw
you are a person after my own heart, I also prefer to make jigs to ease my work instead of waist time on making fancy jigs that'll get waisted any way.
Thanks for sharing your jig build. I must say you explained the steps and reasoning better than most who seem more interested in showing their skills and / or shops.
Again thanks for an amazing instructional video.
Keith. Saw this video yesterday & made the jig last night. Very pleased with it. Your tip about masking tape is great. I added a block of wood to square up the far side of the fence - easy to do but probably not necessary. I found a couple of pieces of laminate covered ply for the jig sides - a touch of furniture polish and the jig is a great sliding fit. I am lucky in having an older version of the Charnwood 650 saw which has a great fence system which is micro adjustable and rock solid.
Great video presentation
Excellent video and process
I need this jig like yesterday
Thank you for the inspiration
Hi Keith,I have watched this vidio a fewer time's,but never made a comment,it was a very simply made jig,made entirely of scrap material,just one tip,always check that the saw blade is vertical which of course you did.
Colin Askey
But when he put the square up to the blade, you could clearly see light at the top.
Don't know if the top end was resting on a blade tooth though.
that's beautiful, I always wondered how they made such nice joints
Whenever you make a jig never leave a 90 degree intersection between two joined surfaces. ALWAYS RELIEVE THE INNER CORNER. The reason being that the likelihood of a workpiece fitting exactly into that intersection without a burr,swarf, wood chip, or etc. on the corner of the workpiece is near zero which immediately throws off your work to some degree.
Great! I was curious if this kind of jig could be made for the Dewalt table saw fence, as I have a similar model.
I have the same tablesaw and I was contemplating making a similar jig but with the fence design with the little flip bar I was worried about the jig wiggling around a little bit and I can actually see it wiggle in your video a bit. I think I'm just going to have to remove that flip handle thingy.
Did you insure the plate parallel with the fence was actually square with the fence? If you did I missed that part.
Wonder if you ever got the jig to cut better at precise 90 degree? Like the jig. I have the same saw. Can you tell me please how wide the jig is (inside measure) My saw is at the summerhouse (far away)
Hi.
Brilliant and so straightforward, will be making one next week..
What is the jig that you have on the table saw that adjusts the horizontal fence? It appears to have a cogwheel track? Is it specific to that saw or is it something that can be added to the saw table.?
Many of the Dewalt table saws have a rack and pinion track that the fence rides on and it helps keep the fence square to the blade.
if the vertical sheet had only been screwed it would have allowed you to fine tune the squareness with shims. I have a saw similar and the rack and pinion fence is actually a bit of a nuisance. there is some play in the mechanism which causes the leading end of the fence to move before the other end, causing about a mm of difference. I have to remember to turn the fence adjusting knob back a hair to nudge the front end of the fence into alignment and make sure only the front end moves and not accidentally move the far end. it doesn't give me a whole lot of confidence in the squareness of the fence and increases setup time with all the second guessing. maybe the mechanism is worn out.
Great video. I will definitely make one now. One question, what happens if I raise the back support bar to prevent it from being cut while tenon is being cut? So the blade will cut the tenon and pass under the support bar. Any thoughts, please?
You can do that, but you won't get any zero clearance benefit as it won't be supported, but that would be gone after a few uses anyway
Thanks for the video, even better that I have the same saw! The tape shims are a great idea.
I see you have changed the blade what type are you using as I think I'd like to change mine to one less rough.
Thanks.
I don't cut alot of mortise and tenon. But I like the jig.
And would cut the dados on the end bars on beehive frames without any modifications.
On your tablesaw. Could you tell me what the useable length of travel is?
nice using the tape for shims was a good idea🖒 The Jig obviously works great💯 seems like it would great for Bridle joints too 🖒🖒
Thanks very much. great video. So glad I found it. Making this tomorrow!!
05:42 Oh, *please* - The highest of all feelings for a woodworker is to build jigs. :-P
Hello. I have the same saw too. I've had a bit of a nightmare getting the blade set up properly. It wasn't parallel to the mitre slots and getting the bevel stop set so the blade is perfectly 90° to the table is also a challenge. Dewalt have not made it easy to make these adjustments, I mean, how can you set the blade parallel to the mitre slots when you have to put the saw on one side to get at the allen screws to move it. would you also agree that the mitre gauge is total garbage? Anyway, I'll have a go at making this jig seeing as you've already done the measurements for me. Like the vids, have subscribed. Thanks.
+Andy Tyrrell luckily I've not had any issues with the blade set up, it was accurate and got to go out of the box. I totally agree about the slack in the mitre gauge it is useless. But so is the one on my bandsaw and the one with my belt sander they're all useless. I really don't know why they can't make them a snug fit!!
Which air nailer did you buy to replace the old one and would you recommend it?
You are a skilled and clever workman with out all of the superfluous yammering. Just a tip though, the technical term for glued and screwed is
"sclued". 😉
Could have used one of those today, I made do holding the stock vertical and using a large block of wood as a push pad behind it.
Did you check to see if the large back piece is even square with the table? Looks like there's a pretty decent size gap when you glue it on, even after you attach the clamps (3:17).
Thanks Keith super useful as always
I just wondering, in real life does the kerf on your sawblade really matters if you make tenons? I guess the one you use is not full kerf, and i having a hard time to find any full kerf blade.
I have the same saw i like the rack and pinion fence supported on both ends.
+Michael Evans yep I hate the idea of having a fence that isn't fixed at the back!
I totally agree with you, i prefer spend time to make things than make jig !!!! Nice video, thanks
Depends on how often you use a jig. In some cases when a jig becomes a regular tool in your workshop, i think it worth the effort and even the right material to put into it.
Thank you, I needed that today, I'll bet I make that tomorrow
I made one of these this weekend, it worked great thanks!
Simple yet effective, nicely done.
Just made this today. Thank you for the video.
Direct to the point. TY!
If you do not glue the vertical block, it can be replaced as it gets chewed up.
Nice it looks identical to the one the homestead craftsman made
Can I ask what blade you are using in saw? Got the same table saw but stock blade it a little rough....
i think he use Freud 48T
I have the same tablesaw and a similar jig, but I'm not so happy about it. The right side of the fence is thin and wobbly and its causing some play betwen the jig and the fence .
Maybe the problem can be solved with a strip of wood on theright side of the thick part of the fence. I havent tried it yet.
A little tape helps
Thanks will make one this week for me DeWalt
I like this jig. Going to try and make one.
Yep! This will be on my to do list, Thx
I've heard the saying, "Form over function". To me, I don't think that way. I'd rather have something that works well, than to have a pretty wall hanger. The place where form and function meets is when just by making something it just looks good. My point is that I am still going to make those hold down clamps that look like race cars.
Thanks man ,good idea , I will try to do the same :)
Nice, I see you got yourself a compressor and new brad gun.
i like the jig but your choice of music is better : )
Looks great going to try it.
Only thing I am going to do differently is NOT glue the last piece down (4:20 mark) as it will need to be replaced over time.
You should make a small narrow shelter to store more wood in because of your small workshop
Excellent! Thank you very much!
great idea and simple to make,
Awesome Jig, love it ❤️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
my dad was a Dewalt fan he had a carpentry shop in Jamaica, it is still there unfortunately he isn't :(
Molto semplice ma ben fatto ed efficiente. Ciao.
i didnt tought Dewalt table saw would handle gigs like this with it's foldable back pice.
what type of clamp is that?
Bom dia!
Apesar de eu não saber inglês, ficou facil sua explicação.
Thanks for sharing your skills. You're awesome.
A nice one ... good to know how ... Thanks
UHMW tape in place of the masking tape would last longer and be very slick
The tape was just a shim to space it from the fence, not a permanent fixture 👍
Great content!
a cool simple jig i like it
Beware those roofing squares aren't always very accurate. A good square will help ensure the jig is true in both directions.
Someone is selling 50 by 100 Centimeter plywood for $1 USD. I need to make this jig. Perfect for what I need. I need a vertical cut at 22.5 degrees.
Found the background music distracting. Your instructions are much more valuable than junk music, thanks.
Lovely
Genial! gracias por compartir... 😃
simple jig and can be modded to cut raised panels .
Jigs are for function, not fashion, in my opinion. I don't spend a lot of time making my jigs look all pretty either. You jig looks good, should last you quite a few years.
thank you
N
Thank you! Just made one and it works perfectly 🫡