Great video . I had a wire that was shorting and needed to replace it with a spare. Your video helped me to repair the circuit by removing the pin instead of cutting and splicing the wire. Thank you from Trinidad 🇹🇹
Fwiw, none of the back inside needs to come apart. Take off the ecu facing cover to access the release catches. The wires will pull through the rubber grommet grid and pin alignment grid with no trouble. For reassembly, just make sure to align the pin when inserting so that it grabs the catch properly.
I know this is old but thanks for this video. I have a Bobcat S750 that had a damaged connection to the ECU. After much searching for the connector I found your video, which helped me id and locate a new Molex MX123 connector. Long story but nothing else like it helped.
rodneyhitz Thank you for the awesome comment. It really makes it worthwhile to make a video and have it help someone out so much!! Thank you for sharing your story. Even though the videos are older I still keep up to date as possible with comment replies. It was tough for a while because I wasn't getting notifications for my video comments. If you haven't already repaired the connectors/connections I suggest soldering the connections as well as crimping. The Molex crimping tool that is supposed to be used for these AND the older GM PCM/ECU terminals is VERY, VERY, expensive. We had to purchase one for our shop at work (robotic applications use almost identical Molex pins) and it was over $550. However, it makes the exact perfect crimp. Some of the aftermarket ones, actually, pretty much ALL of them, don't properly crimp the insulation tangs and the wire is left incredibly insecure! So soldering them is just some extra insurance against poor connections and wires pulling out. If you need any help ID'ing terminals or connector bodies just let me know. I have quite a bit of resources on industrial/commercially used wire termination and connection products!
You're welcome, glad it helped! Technically there is a "tool" to take these out bit it's SO much faster to remove them this way because you don't have to struggle with stuffing the tool into each hole. Especially if you are repinning and entire plug!
"if you can't get that off you probably shouldn't be doing time rest of this yourself" Reeeally helpful guy. With all the many types of connectors out there it isn't hard to get them apart, but it can be hard to do it without breaking anything. Getting that plastic wire cap cover off without risk of breaking it was the only reason I came here. Ironically, what you did show me is what I didn't need, and feel if "you can't do the depinning without a video you shouldn't be working on it"
Imagine not being able to figure something out and then getting sassy with those who take the time to make videos to share knowledge FOR FREE on TH-cam, because it was not tailored to exactly what you wanted. Fucking amazing.
@@agtronic Looking back at my comment I could have been clearer and written it better. I didn't need to figure out how to depin. I knew how to do it the second I looked at it. He did a video showing the WRONG way to do it that is for no good reason MUCH HARDER and time consuming than the correct way. So he actually did people a disservice by making the video, so I hope anyone watching also finds videos showing the correct way. So he shouldn't be congratulated as he did the opposite of helping. On a different note I was tuning in to see the removal of the plastic cover that he DID NOT SHOW. Only because I didn't wanna force plastic too hard if it could be helped. My guess, considering how he did things in the video, is that he didn't show the connector cap removal because he broke it getting it apart and didn't wanna admit that on YT. (Yes, I figured out how to get it apart all by myself without breaking anything. Yes, I did a video on it. I think it is on my other channel)
Yes, if you check out the other videos on my channel you can see the details. It's a 6.0L (Ly6) I swapped into my KIA Sorento SUV. It's also sporting the 6L90e transmission.
@@OverRevvedRacing is this a gen IV harness??? What diagram did you use to find out what wires to delete? I have a 2007 suburban engine and harness that I'm going to start on this winter with very few TH-cam videos to help with what wires I need and don't need.
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 I found the harness for the 2009 Silverado 2500 that the engine came out of. The wires I didn't need I picked out of the diagram myself. Basically leaving all the engine to computer communications wires intact. I got rid of the wires that I didn't need. For example, the transfer case wiring, the wires for the alarm system, fans (I used different plugs and integrated the KIA stock relays in those).
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 you're welcome. If you have any specific questions I can see if I can point you in the right direction. Look me up on FB www.FaceBook.com/LSxSorento
Noob question here - why would you pull wires out of the plug rather than just cut the wires you don't need? I'm sure there's a good reason, but just don't know what it is.
Thanks for explaining Craig. Kia Sorento with an LS???? That is freaking sweet! I'm putting a 5.3 into my Volvo 960. The wiring is the most intimidating part of the swap to me. The physical install of the engine and tranny is not a problem, but man when I look at that anaconda of wires leading from the engine - my knees get weak. LOL. I have to send the ECU off to delete the VATS, remove all the emissions and automatic transmission programming as I'm running an old school manual. I figure I'll do as much as I can and if worse comes to worse I'll drag it to a shop to handle the electrical stuff if I can't.
It is if you plan on re-pinning the harness rather then soldering it. It also makes it much easier to untangle the wiring with all the plugs still connected, rather then cutting the harness to pieces. Then you can lay out the harness possibly not even needing to lengthen anything. You also won't necessarily need all of the wiring connections on a swap so removing the pin/wire looks a lot nicer and is less likely to cause a future issue then leaving a cut wire behind.
Before making this video maybe you should of learned how to properly remove these terminals from the connector!! A screw driver and a knife is not the right way nor the proper tools to remove the terminals!! NOT GOOD!!!!
Ray Hobson No reason to be a jerk, if you already know how to do it and have the "proper tool" then feel free to use it. This way works absolutely perfectly without having to buy some over priced tool.
Good vid bud , but pretty much useless image with the phone camera . If you get to the stage of removing that front cover , you just push the terminal out by pushing on the wire . Just cut off the remaining wire , as i guess you are removing an unused terminal forever .
Assuming the tune is the proper one for the engine, yes. VATS is the only thing that will stop it from running if the harness and tune are correct. I had issues with the DBW throttle body plug wiring. It wasn't the "normal" wire colors I found on Ls1Tech for the "LS family harness colors". There were a couple wires different on my specific throttle body because it wouldn't idle or take ANY throttle at first. Don't remember what exactly I had to change. It's been a WHILE.
Great video. I needed to add wires for A/C and this was exactly what I needed so I didn’t break anything trying to figure it out.
Thanks
Great video . I had a wire that was shorting and needed to replace it with a spare. Your video helped me to repair the circuit by removing the pin instead of cutting and splicing the wire. Thank you from Trinidad 🇹🇹
Good video, I am repairing my engine harness. I was wondering how to get to those pins. Thanks, video is a great guide & help.
Fwiw, none of the back inside needs to come apart. Take off the ecu facing cover to access the release catches. The wires will pull through the rubber grommet grid and pin alignment grid with no trouble. For reassembly, just make sure to align the pin when inserting so that it grabs the catch properly.
I know this is old but thanks for this video. I have a Bobcat S750 that had a damaged connection to the ECU. After much searching for the connector I found your video, which helped me id and locate a new Molex MX123 connector. Long story but nothing else like it helped.
rodneyhitz
Thank you for the awesome comment. It really makes it worthwhile to make a video and have it help someone out so much!! Thank you for sharing your story. Even though the videos are older I still keep up to date as possible with comment replies. It was tough for a while because I wasn't getting notifications for my video comments.
If you haven't already repaired the connectors/connections I suggest soldering the connections as well as crimping. The Molex crimping tool that is supposed to be used for these AND the older GM PCM/ECU terminals is VERY, VERY, expensive. We had to purchase one for our shop at work (robotic applications use almost identical Molex pins) and it was over $550. However, it makes the exact perfect crimp. Some of the aftermarket ones, actually, pretty much ALL of them, don't properly crimp the insulation tangs and the wire is left incredibly insecure! So soldering them is just some extra insurance against poor connections and wires pulling out.
If you need any help ID'ing terminals or connector bodies just let me know. I have quite a bit of resources on industrial/commercially used wire termination and connection products!
This connector is the Molex MX123 by the way. They also have a pin removal tool
Great video! Wasn't exactly what I was doing, but so little info on how to take these apart. Thanks!
You're welcome, glad it helped!
Technically there is a "tool" to take these out bit it's SO much faster to remove them this way because you don't have to struggle with stuffing the tool into each hole. Especially if you are repinning and entire plug!
"if you can't get that off you probably shouldn't be doing time rest of this yourself"
Reeeally helpful guy.
With all the many types of connectors out there it isn't hard to get them apart, but it can be hard to do it without breaking anything.
Getting that plastic wire cap cover off without risk of breaking it was the only reason I came here.
Ironically, what you did show me is what I didn't need, and feel if "you can't do the depinning without a video you shouldn't be working on it"
Imagine not being able to figure something out and then getting sassy with those who take the time to make videos to share knowledge FOR FREE on TH-cam, because it was not tailored to exactly what you wanted. Fucking amazing.
@@agtronic Looking back at my comment I could have been clearer and written it better.
I didn't need to figure out how to depin. I knew how to do it the second I looked at it. He did a video showing the WRONG way to do it that is for no good reason MUCH HARDER and time consuming than the correct way. So he actually did people a disservice by making the video, so I hope anyone watching also finds videos showing the correct way. So he shouldn't be congratulated as he did the opposite of helping.
On a different note I was tuning in to see the removal of the plastic cover that he DID NOT SHOW. Only because I didn't wanna force plastic too hard if it could be helped. My guess, considering how he did things in the video, is that he didn't show the connector cap removal because he broke it getting it apart and didn't wanna admit that on YT. (Yes, I figured out how to get it apart all by myself without breaking anything. Yes, I did a video on it. I think it is on my other channel)
Thanks, I just used this video to help me de-pin some wires. Broke the same piece you did.
+Daniel Jue
Glad it helped you. Sorry to hear you broke the piece too. I haven't had any issues with mine. Been running for 7,000+ miles
Thank you
Thank you this video helped me get my grom going 😀
Glad this could help you out! Got any videos of it?
@@OverRevvedRacing Can i remove antitheft on e38 ecu with ls droid like the older ecus??
Thanks
Molex MX64 female pins. Damn that took me way too long to figure out.
Thank u❤❤
Thank you bro
They make a special tool but this is quick and easy. Haha
Thank you for vid!
Hey I was wondering did you have access to the E78 PCM pinout. I have an 17" ly5 5.3 engine
Did you find any luck
Did you do a swap with it?
Yes, if you check out the other videos on my channel you can see the details. It's a 6.0L (Ly6) I swapped into my KIA Sorento SUV. It's also sporting the 6L90e transmission.
@@OverRevvedRacing is this a gen IV harness??? What diagram did you use to find out what wires to delete? I have a 2007 suburban engine and harness that I'm going to start on this winter with very few TH-cam videos to help with what wires I need and don't need.
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 I found the harness for the 2009 Silverado 2500 that the engine came out of. The wires I didn't need I picked out of the diagram myself. Basically leaving all the engine to computer communications wires intact. I got rid of the wires that I didn't need. For example, the transfer case wiring, the wires for the alarm system, fans (I used different plugs and integrated the KIA stock relays in those).
@@OverRevvedRacing ok thank you bro.
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 you're welcome. If you have any specific questions I can see if I can point you in the right direction. Look me up on FB www.FaceBook.com/LSxSorento
Noob question here - why would you pull wires out of the plug rather than just cut the wires you don't need? I'm sure there's a good reason, but just don't know what it is.
Thanks for explaining Craig. Kia Sorento with an LS???? That is freaking sweet! I'm putting a 5.3 into my Volvo 960. The wiring is the most intimidating part of the swap to me. The physical install of the engine and tranny is not a problem, but man when I look at that anaconda of wires leading from the engine - my knees get weak. LOL. I have to send the ECU off to delete the VATS, remove all the emissions and automatic transmission programming as I'm running an old school manual. I figure I'll do as much as I can and if worse comes to worse I'll drag it to a shop to handle the electrical stuff if I can't.
"liked" your page! Awesome!
Can i remove antitheft on e38 ecu with ls droid like the older ecus??
No, I don't think it's ready yet
All of this isn't necessary, you can just set the harness to the pre-lock condition and be able to access every wire and also able to add a lead
It is if you plan on re-pinning the harness rather then soldering it. It also makes it much easier to untangle the wiring with all the plugs still connected, rather then cutting the harness to pieces. Then you can lay out the harness possibly not even needing to lengthen anything. You also won't necessarily need all of the wiring connections on a swap so removing the pin/wire looks a lot nicer and is less likely to cause a future issue then leaving a cut wire behind.
thx!
C’est quoi cet outillage,prends un marteau et un pied de biche
the tool you need you can buy one here: www.alliedelec.com/molex-incorporated-63813-1400/70090881/
So much yapping
You do not have to take the back off this, to depin it. Just the last part you did, is all u gotta do.
Is it the same for a camaro?
@@crazyrampag did you Depin your Camaro?
Wow. Hardest way possible to extract pins lol. People! Use pin extractors!
Before making this video maybe you should of learned how to properly remove these terminals from the connector!! A screw driver and a knife is not the right way nor the proper tools to remove the terminals!! NOT GOOD!!!!
Ray Hobson
No reason to be a jerk, if you already know how to do it and have the "proper tool" then feel free to use it. This way works absolutely perfectly without having to buy some over priced tool.
Este es un video de, que NO hacer!
your using the wrong tools
Good vid bud , but pretty much useless image with the phone camera . If you get to the stage of removing that front cover , you just push the terminal out by pushing on the wire . Just cut off the remaining wire , as i guess you are removing an unused terminal forever .
Can i remove antitheft on e38 ecu with ls droid like the older ecus??
I don't think so. I have only ever used HPtuners though so I'm not 100% sure.
@@OverRevvedRacing after removing the vats the engine should run normally with drive by wire??
Assuming the tune is the proper one for the engine, yes. VATS is the only thing that will stop it from running if the harness and tune are correct. I had issues with the DBW throttle body plug wiring. It wasn't the "normal" wire colors I found on Ls1Tech for the "LS family harness colors". There were a couple wires different on my specific throttle body because it wouldn't idle or take ANY throttle at first. Don't remember what exactly I had to change. It's been a WHILE.
Thanks