Dude, great video... have to replace my right rear arm. I thought it would be a nightmare to dig into that thing, didn't realize it was that easy. Great job.
thanks a lot! i just dislocated my RL arm (or broke something, cuz the spring loaded system does not work any longer, hence the arm not remaining in its position). Excellent tuto!
thanks for the video. Easy to follow along with. I had the same issue - the tab stop for one of the arms was cracked in a crash so I order only the tab/turrent part the arms connect to the main body.. I wasn't anticipating I'd have to take the whole arm off and desolder the arm connection to the motherboard. Didn't look so hard - hopefully not. Cheers
Very good. Thank you for doing this to help,us all. You obviously didn’t use a variable heat soldering iron. So just a simple $ cheapy will do? Thanks again
xray364 You can use a basic soldering iron but it’s way easier to use a nicer variable heat one. I used a basic soldering iron for this repair but now I use a Weller WES51 soldering station and it’s great!
Camrann Coker thanks Camrann, how hot would you have the soldering iron doing this type of work with a decent variable temperature soldering iron like the Weller WES51? Thanks
Camrann Coker Hi, Camrann, can I please pick your brains. I attempted to install a new rear leg today. Everything was going fine. But I had a hard time removing the wires as the solder on the board wouldn’t melt easy. The soldering iron appears how but it’s not a variable temperature type, but the old 60 watt cheapy. Anyhow, after a fair bit of trouble I did manage to melt the solder and pull away the old wires. However, try as much as I wanted I could not solder the new wires. In the end I gave up as I didn’t want to apply too much heat. Do you recall if the wires came off and soldered on easily on your repair. Also the solder I had would not attach itself to the wires so, it mustn’t be a rosin core soldering wire. That would help so I’ll grab some tomorrow, but even so, I couldn’t melt the old solder. I’ll grab a variable temp soldering iron as well. I assume 850 degrees is Fahrenheit and not Celsius. Thanks in advance.
Alfredo Gonzalez I cannot personally recommend doing this by cutting and splicing the wires together. It could be a serious safety hazard if the connections failed mid flight. That being said, you could technically cut and splice the wires, i would make sure you have a very good crimp. I would recommend just desoldering and resoldering the new arms to make sure it’s repaired just like factory. Thanks for watching!
What was the size of the screws that were smaller? You said take note they are smaller but never said what size they are. I'm trying to figure out what sizes I'm going to need to buy. I already know I need 1.5 mm hex head key
Andrew Bidwell you’ll need a 00 precision Phillips a 1.5mm and a 2mm hex. The link in the description for the screwdrivers is an affordable little set that works great! Thanks for watching. When I say smaller I mean the length of the screw was smaller. Not the actual head size. Should have said shorter lol. Thanks for watching!
can i ask you , where did you purchase your Mavic Pro arms from? I noted Amazon has them as with so many dealers and Mavic Corp. as well...I know we want to be sure to get the exact same product that comes with the Drone.
Thanks for this great video dude...👍 same thing happened to my mavic pro when it crashed... it crack at same spot on the wing... my question is if I just JBwelled the spot to repair it (since I dont have any experience in saudering) will it give me a message on my control? Or will it affect how the drone fly's?
I have to replace the rear arm of my Mavic 1 and I'm having a hard time to remove the old solder (it's not melting at all). I'm using a 60W soldering iron with a ceramic tip. However it is melting regular solder by contact, everything is brand new. I believe this soldering iron gets to 300° celsius, do you know if I need a more powerful one? Which type of core solder should I get for this specific repair? Thanks!
Mauricio Fernández Sometimes with that type of soldering iron you will have to hold it a very long time on the factory joints to get them to melt. Also make sure to use a tip that is as big as possible.
Awesome video! You are amazing! I crashed today and broke my right rear arm. I will be replacing it myself thanks to you. I do have a question though. Here’s the scoop-My rear right arm is broken, so I took off the props to do a simulated takeoff and neither of the rear motors spun. The left motor and arm look to be in perfect condition. Do you think the right arm being broken is causing the left arm to not spin? I get an error message then the two front props stop. All 4 motors twitch when I power the drone on. Sorry for the long post!
If the wires are ripped out that definitely could cause some problems. I don’t know if electrically the rear motors are connected on the circuit or not. You’ll just have to inspect everything once you get the case off. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching!
What’s your email? I wanted to know if you can do a video to replace a certain piece that I believe is cause if my drone not to be able to stay in position
Roman The Explorer You could do it that way but it wouldn’t be a factory quality repair. Unless you crimped them I wouldn’t trust a splice on a drone that vibrates. Thanks for watching.
Job well done - I know it is an old video - but we appreciate your work
Very good video. My drone is back up and running as of today. Thank you.
Dude, great video... have to replace my right rear arm. I thought it would be a nightmare to dig into that thing, didn't realize it was that easy. Great job.
Thanks for the kind words. Glad I could help you out!
I have to do the same after a crash today.
Video and instruction was perfect. Accomplished an easy fix this evening, upgraded my props and my sweetie is back in the air. Thanks!!
Dave Drum Awesome! Glad you got her repaired. Thanks for watching!
Any error light or issues replacing the arm like you can get on the P4 when you replace a motor?
thanks a lot!
i just dislocated my RL arm (or broke something, cuz the spring loaded system does not work any longer, hence the arm not remaining in its position).
Excellent tuto!
Dude! This video was super helpful. Thank you
thanks for the video. Easy to follow along with. I had the same issue - the tab stop for one of the arms was cracked in a crash so I order only the tab/turrent part the arms connect to the main body.. I wasn't anticipating I'd have to take the whole arm off and desolder the arm connection to the motherboard. Didn't look so hard - hopefully not. Cheers
Great step by step video ... I had reservations about attempting the arms change ... still, do but not as much as before.
Nice video, however as the arm seems fine couldn't you replace only the shaft?
awesome illustration.
Superb, easy to understand video. Thanks for sharing and helping me repair my Mavic Pro :)
Very good. Thank you for doing this to help,us all. You obviously didn’t use a variable heat soldering iron. So just a simple $ cheapy will do? Thanks again
xray364 You can use a basic soldering iron but it’s way easier to use a nicer variable heat one. I used a basic soldering iron for this repair but now I use a Weller WES51 soldering station and it’s great!
Camrann Coker thanks Camrann, how hot would you have the soldering iron doing this type of work with a decent variable temperature soldering iron like the Weller WES51? Thanks
Kinda depends on your style of soldering but I like max temp 850° and being very quick with it.
Camrann Coker Hi, Camrann, can I please pick your brains. I attempted to install a new rear leg today. Everything was going fine. But I had a hard time removing the wires as the solder on the board wouldn’t melt easy. The soldering iron appears how but it’s not a variable temperature type, but the old 60 watt cheapy. Anyhow, after a fair bit of trouble I did manage to melt the solder and pull away the old wires. However, try as much as I wanted I could not solder the new wires. In the end I gave up as I didn’t want to apply too much heat. Do you recall if the wires came off and soldered on easily on your repair. Also the solder I had would not attach itself to the wires so, it mustn’t be a rosin core soldering wire. That would help so I’ll grab some tomorrow, but even so, I couldn’t melt the old solder. I’ll grab a variable temp soldering iron as well. I assume 850 degrees is Fahrenheit and not Celsius. Thanks in advance.
Hi. Do you have to desolder and solder? Can the wires just be cut somewhere in the middle to be connected to the new ones?
Alfredo Gonzalez I cannot personally recommend doing this by cutting and splicing the wires together. It could be a serious safety hazard if the connections failed mid flight. That being said, you could technically cut and splice the wires, i would make sure you have a very good crimp. I would recommend just desoldering and resoldering the new arms to make sure it’s repaired just like factory. Thanks for watching!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you so much! Awesome easy $29 fix that I would have been intimidated by otherwise!
Thanks just wondering how do you know the order to solder at least the two white wires
The wires are white, grey, black. There should not be 2 white wires if you have the correct part. Thanks for watching!
@@camranncoker6722 sorry I'm having trouble seeing which one is the gray wire I will rewatch later
what does black tool name??
i try to look for it.. but i dont know what its name
What was the size of the screws that were smaller? You said take note they are smaller but never said what size they are. I'm trying to figure out what sizes I'm going to need to buy. I already know I need 1.5 mm hex head key
Andrew Bidwell you’ll need a 00 precision Phillips a 1.5mm and a 2mm hex. The link in the description for the screwdrivers is an affordable little set that works great! Thanks for watching. When I say smaller I mean the length of the screw was smaller. Not the actual head size. Should have said shorter lol. Thanks for watching!
Nice Job Chief!!! Lord Bless
can i ask you , where did you purchase your Mavic Pro arms from? I noted Amazon has them as with so many dealers and Mavic Corp. as well...I know we want to be sure to get the exact same product that comes with the Drone.
The links on the video description are original manufacturer equipment parts.
Thanks for this great video dude...👍 same thing happened to my mavic pro when it crashed... it crack at same spot on the wing... my question is if I just JBwelled the spot to repair it (since I dont have any experience in saudering) will it give me a message on my control? Or will it affect how the drone fly's?
Thanx man!Really helpful!!
great vitage soldering iron!
I have to replace the rear arm of my Mavic 1 and I'm having a hard time to remove the old solder (it's not melting at all). I'm using a 60W soldering iron with a ceramic tip. However it is melting regular solder by contact, everything is brand new. I believe this soldering iron gets to 300° celsius, do you know if I need a more powerful one? Which type of core solder should I get for this specific repair? Thanks!
Mauricio Fernández Sometimes with that type of soldering iron you will have to hold it a very long time on the factory joints to get them to melt. Also make sure to use a tip that is as big as possible.
Dumb question, but which arm is right and left? Is it when looking at it from the front?
dpwright32 No worries, look at the drone from up above and the rear right is your right and rear Left your left. Make sense?
Camrann Coker Yes! Thanks.
Great video. Can you give me some pointers on editing for my fitness videos and voice overs?
Weldon Anderson Sure thing. Shoot me an email camranncoker@gmail.com
Thank you so much for this!!!
Awesome video! You are amazing! I crashed today and broke my right rear arm. I will be replacing it myself thanks to you. I do have a question though. Here’s the scoop-My rear right arm is broken, so I took off the props to do a simulated takeoff and neither of the rear motors spun. The left motor and arm look to be in perfect condition. Do you think the right arm being broken is causing the left arm to not spin? I get an error message then the two front props stop. All 4 motors twitch when I power the drone on. Sorry for the long post!
If the wires are ripped out that definitely could cause some problems. I don’t know if electrically the rear motors are connected on the circuit or not. You’ll just have to inspect everything once you get the case off. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching!
Are the Amazon's new arm from Dji them self ? Or just a copy ?
Matteo Favre These are OEM DJI replacement parts.
@@camranncoker6722 thanks a lot man , very useful video 👌🔥
How bout I send it to you. You repair it and I'll pay you. I cant get the screws out of it, and I'm not good with a soldering Iron
What’s your email? I wanted to know if you can do a video to replace a certain piece that I believe is cause if my drone not to be able to stay in position
WHY NOT CUT THE WIRE IN A MIDDLE AND TIGH THE NEW ONE IN, NO NEED TO SOLDER THAT WAY?
Roman The Explorer You could do it that way but it wouldn’t be a factory quality repair. Unless you crimped them I wouldn’t trust a splice on a drone that vibrates. Thanks for watching.
Camrann Coker agreed, thanks! Also not mean to caps lock
Great job - I am your #109 and 👍