Short, sweet and concise. Everyone looking for their first Japanese knife should watch this video. Thank you. For those of you stopping your day to comment on the sound of this video, please tell Cletus I said hello.
Shopping for my first Japanese knife and it’s been more confusing than buying my wife’s engagement diamond but this videos explained it perfectly! Thanks!
I'm the proud owner of a Tsunehisa Ginsan Kiritsuke after some amazing help from Ben in store recently. Great video, very informative and looking forward to more guides, demos or showcases you decide to make!
My blue carbon steel kitchen knife has only needed honing In the 18 months I’ve had it , it’s kept an insane edge compared to my German stainless kitchen knifes that I’ve needed to whetstone a few times since getting the Japanese knife .
Blue Super is the next step up from Blue 1, not 2. Moritaka is actually Warikomi rater than Sanmai, with Sanmai the core steel is visible on the spine, Warikomi is a more rare procedure where they inlay the core steel manually.
I find that powdered stainless like SG2 or HAP40 will hold an edge longer than blue super, and won't rust either. Blue Super is great, but imo sits just under powdered stainless and will need to be kept dry otherwise you'll see some spot rust appear.
HAP40 is pretty much like super blue super. It's very similar to blue super but taken even further with the alloys. The most common powdered steel used in cutlery is R2. A good R2 is about as hard and fine grained as you'd ever need. The performance will be pretty similar to super blue, but it will be much lower maintenance. I have knives with both steels, but generally prefer blue super because I think it's just cooler.
Enjoyable and informative video. Only one thing I want to say is that you pronounced 銀三 differently. Correctly you should pronounce GIN ( Silver ) as in name Ginsberg or Ginko tree, and SAN ( Three ) as in San Francisco.
Gyuto are perfect for this, the high hardness will just mean longer edge retention. If you have a high-hardness blade that is very thin, be careful around sweet potato or hard root vegetables, twisting or torqueing mid-cut can put stress on the blade.
Thanks for this. What is your take on the coreless (dual core) VG2/VG10 damascus blades? Shun has one that looks great. Being solid VG10 has me thinking it would be SUPER fragile?
Found this video while looking at swords. As far as im informed for swords carbon steel is often recommended due to the more abuse you put them through. I believe stainless steel is more for display purposes in the sword world.
Kurouchi is pronounced KOO ROH OO CHEE, not "Karachi". It's not a city in Pakistan. Also, AUS-10 has the same general hardness as VG-10, the two steels as basically identical in terms of performance.
I was impressed by the hardness of the Japanese stainless steels being (sometimes well) over 60. In contrast, the most used European steels for knives stay below 60. For example, the highly popular 50CrMoV15 or 440M lies between 54 and 56, while the harder, and somewhat brittle, 440C is still only about 58. How do you explain this difference?
One thing to note though is that edge retention is based on three factors, hardness of the steel, hardness of the carbide, and amount of carbide. And well the addition of chromium to steel lead to the creation of chromium carbide that are harder than iron carbide. This means stainless steel tend to have good edge retention capabilities at lower hardness. Also they are many type of stainless style that tend to be hardened near or slightly past 60, this isn't something inherent to japanese steel. It is not hard to find knifes in CPM-S35VN or 14C28N near or slightly above 60, the thing is those steels are rarely used of kitchen knives . Also 440m is an american steel standart, and not european.
German knives are more heavy duty and wont chip, rust or break as easily. You can use them to cut frozen food and other tough things. This would break your typical japanese knife. It's just different philosophies.
I wish you'd spoken slower , you already have a weird accent which makes it even harder for people who are non English speakers , that way it'd have been more explanatory for those who care about what you have to say.
ZDP-189 is not stainless at high hardness. And why didn't you mention the best steel category for knives - PM cold work tool steels, like Bohler K390 and Vanadis 4 Extra?
@@chefsedge4952 If you mean knives made in Japan only, then I agree. But those supersteels I mentioned are definitely used for making gyutos and other japanese style knives.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 Please, stop spreading disinformation! These Bohler-Uddeholm, CMP, Erasteel steels outperform ALL japanese knife steels in kitchen knives, especially in super thin and long chef's knives.
Short, sweet and concise. Everyone looking for their first Japanese knife should watch this video. Thank you. For those of you stopping your day to comment on the sound of this video, please tell Cletus I said hello.
Audio is stronger on left AirPod for some reason
Same
Shopping for my first Japanese knife and it’s been more confusing than buying my wife’s engagement diamond but this videos explained it perfectly! Thanks!
I'm the proud owner of a Tsunehisa Ginsan Kiritsuke after some amazing help from Ben in store recently. Great video, very informative and looking forward to more guides, demos or showcases you decide to make!
Happy to help mate!
Hi, Ben, It's Eric here, your loyal customer. nicely done, good video. Looking forward next video.
Thanks Eric! Glad you enjoyed
My blue carbon steel kitchen knife has only needed honing In the 18 months I’ve had it , it’s kept an insane edge compared to my German stainless kitchen knifes that I’ve needed to whetstone a few times since getting the Japanese knife .
Blue Super is the next step up from Blue 1, not 2.
Moritaka is actually Warikomi rater than Sanmai, with Sanmai the core steel is visible on the spine, Warikomi is a more rare procedure where they inlay the core steel manually.
yes
Why is your audio only in my left speaker? Something went weird.
Very informative, thank you. But poor choice of lighting.
Is the sound set on MONO ?? only hear from the left side.... (All sound is working, exept on his video)
Hardness does less for edge retention than angle and carbides
What hrc is it? My stainless steel is 60hrc
There is Blue Paper Super (Aogami Super) it goes 65 HRC
How about VG-MAX? Usually that uses Kai Shun
Just know that you had a TH-cam channel.... keep coming with a great content
Thankyou!
How would a powdered stainless preform against a blue super?
I find that powdered stainless like SG2 or HAP40 will hold an edge longer than blue super, and won't rust either. Blue Super is great, but imo sits just under powdered stainless and will need to be kept dry otherwise you'll see some spot rust appear.
HAP40 is pretty much like super blue super. It's very similar to blue super but taken even further with the alloys.
The most common powdered steel used in cutlery is R2. A good R2 is about as hard and fine grained as you'd ever need. The performance will be pretty similar to super blue, but it will be much lower maintenance. I have knives with both steels, but generally prefer blue super because I think it's just cooler.
Enjoyable and informative video. Only one thing I want to say is that you pronounced 銀三 differently. Correctly you should pronounce GIN ( Silver ) as in name Ginsberg or Ginko tree, and SAN ( Three ) as in San Francisco.
Very nice video!
What type of Asian knife would you use to dice/slice a potato, before boiling? Would a gyuto be fine? Even with a higher hardness of like a 64?
Gyuto are perfect for this, the high hardness will just mean longer edge retention. If you have a high-hardness blade that is very thin, be careful around sweet potato or hard root vegetables, twisting or torqueing mid-cut can put stress on the blade.
ежели для себя резать, то тока нержавейка.. а для остального.. шо хош..
Asia is a continent. The best knives hail from Japan.
You do not need a super-hard blade to cut potatoes. It just has to be sharp.
Is there a difference between SK and SKD steel?
Great question! SK is a full carbon tool steel, whereas SKD is classified as a high carbon semi stainless. SKD is a much better steel in our opinion.
Thanks for this. What is your take on the coreless (dual core) VG2/VG10 damascus blades? Shun has one that looks great. Being solid VG10 has me thinking it would be SUPER fragile?
Found this video while looking at swords. As far as im informed for swords carbon steel is often recommended due to the more abuse you put them through. I believe stainless steel is more for display purposes in the sword world.
Great video, very informative!
Appreciate that Tom!
Hello thanks for your videos, can you tell me what you think about these knife makers? xinzuo, xituo, syokami, turwho and TUO
All mediocre, Chinese internet junk.
Thamks for your help@@einundsiebenziger5488
Kurouchi is pronounced KOO ROH OO CHEE, not "Karachi". It's not a city in Pakistan.
Also, AUS-10 has the same general hardness as VG-10, the two steels as basically identical in terms of performance.
Disagree on the A10 and VG10. HRC 58-60 for A10, almost always 60 for VG10
@@chefsedge4952 That's just the marketing. The actual hardness depends on heat treatment.
@@theredbar-cross8515 correct, but I rarely ever see good VG10 at 59, and likewise with A10 rarely seen at above 59.
Wicked video
Thanks so much 🤘
Since when HAP40 is stainless?
Classified as Powdered Stainless, but semi-stainless is what it really is
I was impressed by the hardness of the Japanese stainless steels being (sometimes well) over 60.
In contrast, the most used European steels for knives stay below 60. For example, the highly popular 50CrMoV15 or 440M lies between 54 and 56, while the harder, and somewhat brittle, 440C is still only about 58.
How do you explain this difference?
Beside steel composition, grain structure and heat treatment plays a vital role too. Perhaps Japanese's has better microstructure than European's.
One thing to note though is that edge retention is based on three factors, hardness of the steel, hardness of the carbide, and amount of carbide. And well the addition of chromium to steel lead to the creation of chromium carbide that are harder than iron carbide. This means stainless steel tend to have good edge retention capabilities at lower hardness.
Also they are many type of stainless style that tend to be hardened near or slightly past 60, this isn't something inherent to japanese steel. It is not hard to find knifes in CPM-S35VN or 14C28N near or slightly above 60, the thing is those steels are rarely used of kitchen knives .
Also 440m is an american steel standart, and not european.
German knives are more heavy duty and wont chip, rust or break as easily. You can use them to cut frozen food and other tough things. This would break your typical japanese knife. It's just different philosophies.
german are better for daily usage in the kitchen
I purhase Japanese stainles stell knife from Tiki max 23 euro ? This knife is good o rubich ? What is your opinion ? 😀
23 euro? That’s not a Japanese knife…it’s a Chinese made junk disguised as a Japanese knife.
pls make the audio mono next time, this was horrible to listen with headphones
can´t watch this video due to audio, its unbearable
I wish you'd spoken slower , you already have a weird accent which makes it even harder for people who are non English speakers , that way it'd have been more explanatory for those who care about what you have to say.
White steel are sharper than blue steel.
White steel is* sharper ... and only when sharpened properly.
If someone's first getting into Japanese knifes I wouldn't suggest anything over a vg10 imho.
js
knives*
Nice shirt, super clean look! Nice blue backlighting.
Thanks Franco!
SG2 at edge angle 10 - 12 degree is not difficult for sharpening because of its narrower edge than European knife which is 14 degree.
ZDP-189 is not stainless at high hardness. And why didn't you mention the best steel category for knives - PM cold work tool steels, like Bohler K390 and Vanadis 4 Extra?
This video is all about Japanese knives, Bohler etc are not used in Japanese knife making.
@@chefsedge4952 If you mean knives made in Japan only, then I agree. But those supersteels I mentioned are definitely used for making gyutos and other japanese style knives.
K390 and Vanadis are steels not suited for the long, thin blades of kitchen knives. They only make sense on folders and outdoor knives.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 Please, stop spreading disinformation! These Bohler-Uddeholm, CMP, Erasteel steels outperform ALL japanese knife steels in kitchen knives, especially in super thin and long chef's knives.
Too much talking bro..
Coming from you, a Filipino, that’s hilarious, as your Tagalog sound like a dozen jack hammers going at once…