I love your work, you are an inspiration. I don't know if you picked up on it later but the number eight in roman numerals is VIII. Keep on designing and making these great machines, they are beautiful.
Thanks Dave, that's really kind and makes it all worth while. Thanks for pointing out the VIII, I really value kind viewers pointing out my numerous mistakes (Anti Meridian, 5 minute intervals split into 6 etc etc)!
I would be so tempted to make a gauge labelled "time until this gauge resets itself" Obviously it would start by swinging the needle full right, then very slowly bring it back down to zero, whereupon the process repeats itself.
@@amishrobots definately, no cheating with elecmatrickory, other than perhaps to run the actual meter; lead acid glass cell would look nice. The rest definately mechanical, possibly even clockwork...
Hi there fascinated by your work and how professional the dial looks. 😊 Anyway, I was wondering what graphics software you were using to draw the dial. I’m having a terrible time with the graduations.😢 Also, I have one of the cheap 20mW UV lasers that use the extruded aluminum beams and web-belts. 🧐 It uses this disastrous Ben-Box software that is unusable and my PC screams its malware! 😮 So, what software coil I use to control the laser; as I think its mechanics are good enough since similar to a 3D printer? 🤓 Thank you for reading my comment… 😊
Thank you kindly! I design the dials using 2D Design by Techsoft. It's used in DT departments in most schools in the UK, as it's been around for years and still only requires a one off license payment. It has fairly basic tools, but has one that can rotate and copy a line by a certain number of degrees, around a point. I just divide the required overall dial pointer movement angle by the number of divisions required, and get it to draw the divisions where required. Using the same tool, I start with zero, and rotate and paste the text in the same way. Then I edit each text number to the required value. I'm sure there must be cleverer and more expensive ways to achive this, but it works for me! My 60 watt laser cutter also uses extruded aluminium beams and rubber timing belts, but can accept .dxf files. I'm not familar with the Ben-box software. Mine is an LS 3060 bought from HPC Laser Ltd in the UK.
@@steamhead Ok, well thank you very much. I’m an Amateur Radio operator and have several old meters that wool be nice to modify. There are some professional paid programs I’ve seen before but they all have weird jaggies so yours looked better. On the laser, most people have been steering me toward LightBurn. Anyway, this helps out a bunch, so thank you! 😊
@@SpinStar1956 Happy to be of help. I've found, however you do something, there'll always be loads of people telling you about their fantastic alternative! Whether it's a laser cutter or a programing language, I've never been told 'you're doing it the right way'!
I'm making a prop guider counter using an electric music metronome, & trying to find out possible ways to connect the circuit board to a similar dile you have here. Is an Arduino the only way to go or can another circuit board be set up with capacitors & a switch component that lets the power threw to the gauge every time metronome clicks threw the speeker. I'm terrible with electronics, so I don't know how to describe the parts.
Hi, that sounds like an exciting project! I'd suggest using one of the small Arduinos to create the clicks and control the gauge, but that doesn't sound like an option if you're not into electronics - still possible though, I'm always happy to help. Alternatively, you could use a couple of resistors and a capacitor to control the gauge directly from the clicking metronome output. I can't post images here, but you can always email me at john@steamhead.co.uk
Another great video! what material are you using for the voltmeter scales and where can one buy it? I intend to use 3 meters to make an analogue clock (Hours mins and secs) all needed their own scale.
I use laser engraving veneer for the voltmeter scales. It consists of a thick layer of black plastic, with a thin layer of white plastic on one side. The laser cuts away the thin white layer to reveal the black layer. In the UK I buy it from Techsoft, although it's printed with logos that suggest it's manufactured in the US! I'd suggest Googling laser engraving laminate
Hi Tim, what ever the scale says on a moving coil analogue gauge, the actual gauge movement runs on very little electricity. In the case of a voltage gauge, a resistor is used inside the meter in series to reduce the voltage down to the correct level. In current meters its a resistor in parallel, basically to let most of the current bypass the movement. Some meters even usefully have the FSD (full scale deflection) voltage printed on the dial somewhere. Rather than calculating the FSD, from whatever resistor is inside and the maximum reading on the dial, you can just get an adjustable DC voltage supply that goes down to zero, connect the meter sans resistor across it, and slowly turn up the voltage until the pointer reaches the maximum reading on the dial. Once you have found out the FSD voltage, you can calculate a suitable resistor for your needs. The 50v meter I used started with a 49.5K resistor which I replaced with 4K7 to give it a FSD of 5 volts (Arduino voltage). Alternatively, you've got me started now! If you're using something like an Arduino or Rasperry Pie that has PWM (pulse width modulation) outputs, run a PWM output through a 1K resistor into a 1uF capacitor with it's negative side connected to ground. Then connect the positive side of the capacitor through a 3K3 resistor and then to the 'de-resistored' meter, the other side of which is also connected to ground. This will turn the PWM output into an analogue voltage that will run the meter. The 3K3 resistor may need to be changed for your meter. The great thing about this is that it's easy to set the output anywhere between 0 = 0 volts and 255 = 5 volts. Then you can use the Map function at least in the Arduino, to scale down or up some calculated value, such as temperature or even time! to run the meter. Exciting! Thanks for your interest.
@@steamhead thanks for getting back to me with such a detailed reply. That's a really helpful answer. I did do some digging around and found this other project. Great implementation but not as pretty as yours. I think in essence his method achieved the same as yours. michaelteeuw.nl/post/174972004187/what-time-is-it-fathers-day#disqus_thread
@@TimothyEdDoran do let me know if you require any more assistance. It's so nice to help others with their ideas. Are you planning to control the meter with something like an Arduino? If so, you can get an analogue meter to display just about anything!
Hi Morturn, it's an LS 3060 from HPC Laser Ltd in the UK. It has a 60 watt water cooled laser with a 610mm x 300mm cutting area. The best tool I ever bought! Whilst not being that fast - the manufacturer suggests keeping the power under 40%, I've been using it for about 5 years and it's as good today as it was when I first bought it. Reading between the lines, if you run a laser cutter at high power, the laser tube and optics wear out really quickly.
I am surprised you haven't rigged it up to be absolute barometric pressure. However, they look fantastic. To save money haven't you considered buying a roll of SM leds rather than the strips which must be more expensive?
I think it is absolute, I seem to remember that most barometric readings and types are very similar! Thanks for the suggestion, I have considered buying SM Leds, but still have the remains of two rolls given to me ages ago, which I'm slowly working through. I've got pretty good at unsoldering them when I need single ones! One day I'll order a load...
After much research, I ended up getting a 60 watt water cooled laser from HPC Laser.co.uk in the UK, model LS3060. The cutting area is 600mm wide by 310mm high. It's fantastic, although, as recommended, I always keep the power under 40%. Four years on and it still works perfectly. Having spoken to other laser users at steampunk events, I get the destinct impression, that running them at higher powers ruins the optics and severely reduces the life of the laser tube - less haste more speed?!
@@steamhead Thanks for the fast reply. Wife and I really enjoy your work and your great narration. Yeah, I figured it must be more powerful than the chinese 40 watters, I don't think they could cut those thicker materials you use. Keep doing what you do.
Nice to see someone else who uses Microsoft 3D builder. Probably the easiest to pickup. Although I'm mostly using the free version of onshape, I still turn to 3d builder to do some tasks.
I just came across this video and it's fabulous! Just what I needed! I have been trying to figure out how to use analog meters with Arduino to achieve certain effects. Would you mind if I email you to ask some questions?
Thank you, it's nice to have yet another ridiculous mistake pointed out - I've got quite a track record! Mistakes with Roman numerals, Anti Meridian rather than Ante, 72 minutes in an hour...
I love the enthusiasm you speak with. I completely agree this is much better than digital displays.
Thanks SantaHul, comments like yours are so encouraging and make it all worthwhile!
What fantastic uses for analog voltmeters! You really have so many fantastic ideas, and luckily, the genius to put them to work for you! Thanks.
Thanks Tom, you're too kind!
That's flipping brilliant. Brilliant work
Thanks so much Tim. It makes it all worthwhile!
I love your work, you are an inspiration. I don't know if you picked up on it later but the number eight in roman numerals is VIII. Keep on designing and making these great machines, they are beautiful.
Thanks Dave, that's really kind and makes it all worth while. Thanks for pointing out the VIII, I really value kind viewers pointing out my numerous mistakes (Anti Meridian, 5 minute intervals split into 6 etc etc)!
Großartig und wunderschön. 👍 👍 Gefällt mir sehr gut. Ich liebe Steampunk.
I would be so tempted to make a gauge labelled "time until this gauge resets itself"
Obviously it would start by swinging the needle full right, then very slowly bring it back down to zero, whereupon the process repeats itself.
That's a great idea! Love it - it ticks all the steampunk boxes! Once I've finished the ukulele playing machine, I'll definately make one.
@@steamhead for extra Rube Goldberg points though, use a fancy old rheostat and some clockwork to control it
@@amishrobots definately, no cheating with elecmatrickory, other than perhaps to run the actual meter; lead acid glass cell would look nice. The rest definately mechanical, possibly even clockwork...
Could you just get a micro r/c servo and stick the pointer arm to that?
Then get one of those servo testers and control it with that.?
That's a good idea, especially as the Arduino can easily control servos with one of its puls width modulated outputs!
This is absolute genius!
Thank you kindly!
Hi there fascinated by your work and how professional the dial looks. 😊
Anyway, I was wondering what graphics software you were using to draw the dial. I’m having a terrible time with the graduations.😢
Also, I have one of the cheap 20mW UV lasers that use the extruded aluminum beams and web-belts. 🧐
It uses this disastrous Ben-Box software that is unusable and my PC screams its malware! 😮
So, what software coil I use to control the laser; as I think its mechanics are good enough since similar to a 3D printer? 🤓
Thank you for reading my comment… 😊
Thank you kindly!
I design the dials using 2D Design by Techsoft. It's used in DT departments in most schools in the UK, as it's been around for years and still only requires a one off license payment.
It has fairly basic tools, but has one that can rotate and copy a line by a certain number of degrees, around a point. I just divide the required overall dial pointer movement angle by the number of divisions required, and get it to draw the divisions where required. Using the same tool, I start with zero, and rotate and paste the text in the same way. Then I edit each text number to the required value.
I'm sure there must be cleverer and more expensive ways to achive this, but it works for me!
My 60 watt laser cutter also uses extruded aluminium beams and rubber timing belts, but can accept .dxf files. I'm not familar with the Ben-box software. Mine is an LS 3060 bought from HPC Laser Ltd in the UK.
@@steamhead Ok, well thank you very much.
I’m an Amateur Radio operator and have several old meters that wool be nice to modify.
There are some professional paid programs I’ve seen before but they all have weird jaggies so yours looked better.
On the laser, most people have been steering me toward LightBurn.
Anyway, this helps out a bunch, so thank you! 😊
@@SpinStar1956 Happy to be of help. I've found, however you do something, there'll always be loads of people telling you about their fantastic alternative! Whether it's a laser cutter or a programing language, I've never been told 'you're doing it the right way'!
A friend has just discovered this gauge graphics software soulmare.github.io/scale_master/. I haven't tried it properly, but I hope it's of help.
@@steamhead ok, thank you! 😊
I'm making a prop guider counter using an electric music metronome, & trying to find out possible ways to connect the circuit board to a similar dile you have here. Is an Arduino the only way to go or can another circuit board be set up with capacitors & a switch component that lets the power threw to the gauge every time metronome clicks threw the speeker. I'm terrible with electronics, so I don't know how to describe the parts.
Hi, that sounds like an exciting project! I'd suggest using one of the small Arduinos to create the clicks and control the gauge, but that doesn't sound like an option if you're not into electronics - still possible though, I'm always happy to help. Alternatively, you could use a couple of resistors and a capacitor to control the gauge directly from the clicking metronome output. I can't post images here, but you can always email me at john@steamhead.co.uk
Marvelous work, lucidly explained. What is the font used in your gauges? Bill
Thank you kindly! The font I use is called Maleficio.
@@steamhead Thanks so much! I have subscribed....
@@williamsrea thanks very much, it all helps!
Another great video! what material are you using for the voltmeter scales and where can one buy it? I intend to use 3 meters to make an analogue clock (Hours mins and secs) all needed their own scale.
I use laser engraving veneer for the voltmeter scales. It consists of a thick layer of black plastic, with a thin layer of white plastic on one side. The laser cuts away the thin white layer to reveal the black layer.
In the UK I buy it from Techsoft, although it's printed with logos that suggest it's manufactured in the US!
I'd suggest Googling laser engraving laminate
Could you be so kind as to explain how you went from 5v to 50v for the guage please?
Hi Tim, what ever the scale says on a moving coil analogue gauge, the actual gauge movement runs on very little electricity. In the case of a voltage gauge, a resistor is used inside the meter in series to reduce the voltage down to the correct level. In current meters its a resistor in parallel, basically to let most of the current bypass the movement. Some meters even usefully have the FSD (full scale deflection) voltage printed on the dial somewhere.
Rather than calculating the FSD, from whatever resistor is inside and the maximum reading on the dial, you can just get an adjustable DC voltage supply that goes down to zero, connect the meter sans resistor across it, and slowly turn up the voltage until the pointer reaches the maximum reading on the dial. Once you have found out the FSD voltage, you can calculate a suitable resistor for your needs. The 50v meter I used started with a 49.5K resistor which I replaced with 4K7 to give it a FSD of 5 volts (Arduino voltage).
Alternatively, you've got me started now! If you're using something like an Arduino or Rasperry Pie that has PWM (pulse width modulation) outputs, run a PWM output through a 1K resistor into a 1uF capacitor with it's negative side connected to ground. Then connect the positive side of the capacitor through a 3K3 resistor and then to the 'de-resistored' meter, the other side of which is also connected to ground. This will turn the PWM output into an analogue voltage that will run the meter. The 3K3 resistor may need to be changed for your meter. The great thing about this is that it's easy to set the output anywhere between 0 = 0 volts and 255 = 5 volts. Then you can use the Map function at least in the Arduino, to scale down or up some calculated value, such as temperature or even time! to run the meter. Exciting!
Thanks for your interest.
@@steamhead thanks for getting back to me with such a detailed reply. That's a really helpful answer.
I did do some digging around and found this other project. Great implementation but not as pretty as yours. I think in essence his method achieved the same as yours. michaelteeuw.nl/post/174972004187/what-time-is-it-fathers-day#disqus_thread
@@TimothyEdDoran do let me know if you require any more assistance. It's so nice to help others with their ideas. Are you planning to control the meter with something like an Arduino? If so, you can get an analogue meter to display just about anything!
This is one might also help: th-cam.com/video/wbRx5cQZ8Ts/w-d-xo.html
Brill. What is the make and model of your laser cutter please? Have you made any mods to it?
Hi Morturn, it's an LS 3060 from HPC Laser Ltd in the UK. It has a 60 watt water cooled laser with a 610mm x 300mm cutting area. The best tool I ever bought! Whilst not being that fast - the manufacturer suggests keeping the power under 40%, I've been using it for about 5 years and it's as good today as it was when I first bought it. Reading between the lines, if you run a laser cutter at high power, the laser tube and optics wear out really quickly.
@@steamhead Thanks, thats perfect
I am surprised you haven't rigged it up to be absolute barometric pressure.
However, they look fantastic.
To save money haven't you considered buying a roll of SM leds rather than the strips which must be more expensive?
I think it is absolute, I seem to remember that most barometric readings and types are very similar! Thanks for the suggestion, I have considered buying SM Leds, but still have the remains of two rolls given to me ages ago, which I'm slowly working through. I've got pretty good at unsoldering them when I need single ones! One day I'll order a load...
very slick. what laser printer do you use?
After much research, I ended up getting a 60 watt water cooled laser from HPC Laser.co.uk in the UK, model LS3060. The cutting area is 600mm wide by 310mm high. It's fantastic, although, as recommended, I always keep the power under 40%. Four years on and it still works perfectly.
Having spoken to other laser users at steampunk events, I get the destinct impression, that running them at higher powers ruins the optics and severely reduces the life of the laser tube - less haste more speed?!
@@steamhead Thanks for the fast reply. Wife and I really enjoy your work and your great narration. Yeah, I figured it must be more powerful than the chinese 40 watters, I don't think they could cut those thicker materials you use. Keep doing what you do.
@@TheUnofficialMaker Thank you so much for your kind words, they really motivate me to make more videos!
@@TheUnofficialMaker Thanks very much!
brilliant and fun.
Thank you kindly!
11:58 werewolf?
werewolf?!
Nice to see someone else who uses Microsoft 3D builder. Probably the easiest to pickup. Although I'm mostly using the free version of onshape, I still turn to 3d builder to do some tasks.
I've always been amazed with how effective and intuitive it is to use.
I just came across this video and it's fabulous! Just what I needed! I have been trying to figure out how to use analog meters with Arduino to achieve certain effects. Would you mind if I email you to ask some questions?
I'm only too happy to help! john@steamhead.co.uk
@@steamhead Thank you. Email sent!
8 = VIII 🤔
Thank you, it's nice to have yet another ridiculous mistake pointed out - I've got quite a track record! Mistakes with Roman numerals, Anti Meridian rather than Ante, 72 minutes in an hour...
@@steamhead ....was not meant badly!
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
@@Maxi.236 oh no, I do like hearing about the mistakes I make! It's kind of people to point them out and shows they are paying attention! 😁