Worms and Biochar: Increase Microbial Bio-Diversity 2023
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2024
- Biochar is a powerful tool to increase increase microbial biodiversity and expand the microorganisms available to your worms. Microorganisms account for most of the food worms consume inside of your worm bin. Often, we think our worms eat food scraps, but it is actually the microbial life on the food scraps what feed our worms. With this in mind, there are different things you can do to improve biodiversity in your vermiculture system, one of them being adding biochar. Biochar works like coral reef inside of your worm bin. Given that your worms work very hard to make the best organic fertilizer for you, my hope is that this video will continue to inspire you to try new things to improve the quality of life of your worms!
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Worm Farm Playlist:
ttps:// • Worm Farm and Bokashi ...
0:05 Biochar and your Worms
0:33 Microorganisms Feed your Worms
1:13 Biochar as a Coral Reef inside your Worm System
1:43 What Worms are actually Eating
2:15 Your Worm System as a Recycling and as a Digestive System
3:00 Why Vermicompost is Richer than Commercial Fertilizers
3:30 Leaves as a Mineral Source for your Worms and Garden
4:25 This is How Biochar Works to Maximize Microbial Habitat
5:50 Adding Biochar to the Bins
6:55 Other Functions of Biochar in your Worm Bin
7:18 Activating Biochar in your Worm Bin
7:53 Biochar as a Slow Release Fertilizer
8:37 Where to Find Free Biochar
I've watched a lot of TH-cam videos concerning biochar. This has to be one of the best at describing what and how biochar works.
Good job!
Thank you!! I love adding biochar to my bins. I am also exploring with bone meal as a source of both grit and calcium. So far so good! Thank you for your comment!
Worm Bin Advanced Level Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLJQ7A3Z50v5G9xnx4FaZ9-MvbgHgFLwF3.html
@@GardensofNewEngland 1:22 1:25
@@GardensofNewEngland 1:46 1:48 1:49 1:50
you are way ahead of my worm experience, i recently placed a thick layer of leaves in a lower bin with mushroom compost mixed in with the shredded cardboard. It didn't take long for worms to travel down into this tray even though all the food i feed is in the tray above it. Great video, keep them coming.
Thank you Mikko!! What I love about TH-cam as a learning community is that we can help each other advance much faster than if we were learning on our own! Thank you for the comment!
Fall leaves break down much, much faster when they've been shredded. I do this with a high-powered weed wacker in a round stock tank that's 2 feet deep. In 15 minutes, I can do the same amount takes 5 hours with a Toro leaf vacuum.
Yeah! Great insight! Thank you!
It also helps that since the leaves fragments are now small enough, earth worms can actually swallow and digest them instead of having to wait until they break down
I love the addition of mushroom innoculant in your bins. So cool!
It is a fun way to spread king stropharia through the garden and help with filtration in the worm system.
Coral reef is an excellent metaphor for biochar
Thank you!!!
I don't currently have a composting system, and have been getting soil for new plantings from my local garden center. I've started doing research on how to setup a composting system at home and find this video and your others on setting up bins really informative and inspiring. Thank you for sharing your insights!
Thank you Jason!
I came here after being recommended to another of your worm videos. liked this video a lot! Thank you.
Thank you so much Glynis!
WOW, so happy I found your channel. Awesome. Subscriber from NW FL.
Thank YOU!!
One of the best ever bio char videos! EXCELLENT! JUST SUBBED...
Thank you!!!!!!
FANTASTIC EXPLANATION!
Thank you!!
Helpful! Thanks for your efforts to present the information.
You are most welcome!!
Thank you for the best information i have heard in years! On these topics.
Awww! Thank you so much Claire!!
Adding LAB, JMS, IMO4, Bokashi, EM1, AEM, kombucha, and I’m testing others as well.. I also use leaf’s, biochar, food scraps, same mushroom species as you, eggshells, and mixing native soil from all across my state. The methods are from JADAM/KNF! I’ve been Learning about so many different things on different levels and it’s crazy how they all connect we are so connected to our planet and the ways that we produce our food in accordance to our planet it’s really quite significant and it all ties together even fermentation process is for gardening turned back around and are the same fermentation processes it’s pretty amazing.
Yeah! When you start to recognize the interconnections and similarities it is pretty amazing!!! Thanks for sharing!
Thankyou for sharing your knowledge.Great video.
You are most welcome!!
Great lecture. Good Teacher. Rooting for your success.
Thank you Eliman!!!! I appreciate that very much!
Very well done! Thanks for your efforts!
You are most welcome Jeff!
Agreed!
I was immersed in vermicomposting for many years. Retired a few years back.
I agree with your didactics. They- vermicompost and biochar- can even work if applied individually.
Put in vermicompost in your herbaceous plant or vegetable plant and you can see the transformation almost overnight.
Biochar works slower, but the effects are likewise obvious with the eye test.
Combining them would give the best results. I use them for trees, even.
I don't think worms will feed on biochar. Therefore, it would be useless to put charcoal in the composting beds at the start of the composting process. Sand, I agree with, but you can do as well with smaller amount. Sand is abrasive to the worm's skin. I don't think they like to play with it. They just need a little in their guts to mechanically break down organic matter.
True that the spaces in the biochar provides a good space for microorganisms to grow. So, what I did was to innoculate my biochar with the vermicompost. This means that after harvesting my vermicompost, that's the time I put them together. I mix the fertilizer with an equal amount of charcoal and incubate for a week. Meaning, put the mixture in a porous sack and put it in a cool, dark place. This gives time for the bacteria to inhabit the spaces in the charcoal. Then you are free to use it.
I use charcoal as my biochar. Ashes is not biochar, and it is actually used to repel slimy skinned invertebrates away from your garden plants.
THat's the way I did it.
Completely agree with everything you said! Why did you stop vermicomposting? I am thinking about switching to fermentation only via bokashi but my plants do LOVE the vermicompost.
Thanks for your very interesting information, one of the best I've seen regarding vermiculture... love your videos 👍😊
Thank you Jacqui!!!!!!
Totally makes sense. Very helpful video.
Thank you Patrick!
I was just checking on my worms today. I have them in "Worm towers" sunk into garden beds. I empty my bokashi bin into the nearly empty tower (a little soil in the bottom) I then topdress with crushed egg shells, coffee grounds and chqrcoal powder (I don't think you can really call it biochar until it's innoculted). I had no worms when I started, they came of their own accord, but now I innoculate the new/refilled bins and the worms are free to come and go through holes in the side. There is 1 to 2 inches at the bottom to make sure there is always a resevoir of water to make sure that it doesn't dry out. It's too cold here at the moment, but because the bins are sunken there's still some worm life. If it's too wet/dry/hot/cold/acidic they can Leaven... but they stay.
I will grind the eggshells though and mix them in going forward. Love the content!
Alex, you heard me thinking! I have been trying to figure out a way to do something similar to what you describe. I have a piece of land where I want to have a worm bin system outdoors--at least during the warmer months. I need to figure out a way to prevent bears and other animals to mess with it. I have thought about putting something underground as you describe to feed fruit trees. If it is deep enough the worms will have access to warmer soil that does not freeze. Thank you for sharing!!
@@GardensofNewEngland We only have to deal with moles meeces and rats here... maybe the occassional fox. I use small totes a little bigger than my bokashi bin and food buckets which are a bit too small and I have to divide the bokashi into 4 to fill. I'm not sure any of them would stand up to a bear. I'd be in trouble if a badger came by.
@@alexc1105 Thank You! I am on track to place 5-gallon worm tower in the garden rows about 6-feet apart with horse manure and food scraps. I might consider rectangular totes if it is not too much work to bury them. Thank You!
@@nelsonolivera8059 My rhubarb certainly loves it! I have some smaller buckets which are probably about a gallon and larger totes which are probably nearer 5 gallons. The totes are new so I couldn.t say how ell they will work, but it's good to just empty a full bokashi bin in them. With the buckets I have to divide it up between them. Hope it goes well for you. Let me know if you have any questions I can answer/might be able to answer.
@@alexc1105 I have been using Bokashi composting method this year, during the cold winter months. I heard that Bokashi makes a better vermi compost. However, the lady who supplied my worms said it is too acidic for them. I did feed it to the new worms and checked on them several days later. There seem to be less worms. I don't know if it is too cold for them outside or what. I did start the bin with some soil and sand and the worms were already embeded in digested food but not worm castings. I just wonder if the worms died already as they seem to have diminished in population.
Great ‘ thx
My plan moving forward =
• add worms to total 300 per bucket
• add food as follows:
• 9 cups oak tree leaves
• 9 cups bio-char
• 9 cups moss
• 5 cups moss bedding (lime,coir,perlite)
✔️‘ keep you posted ‘ thx
Best of luck!!!!
Wow. This was very interesting!! It kicks my worm bin system to another level. Thanks!!
Yeah!! It totally does!! I love adding charcoal to my bin to turn it into biochar. Make sure the char is from untreated wood.
Amazing video! You are top cutting edge science when you're practicing Vermiculture and mycelium running!!
Awww! Thank you! They work well together! Just got mushrooms this spring!
@@GardensofNewEngland ❤️❤️❤️❤️🙏🌹
I like this different aspect and approach to the worm bin. Great content. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work mate. As an experienced horticulturalist I learnt some very valuable info from ur video. Keep it up! 👍🤘
Thank you Adam!!! I am glad you learned something new. I love working with biochar.
My worms love the dirt from my bokashi soil factory. It always brings balance back to my worms. They love ❤!
Bokashi rocks!!!
Brilliant info thank you 😀
Thank you Sherry!
Great information Biochar is something I am going to try this!
I really like it!
Very informative I look forward to learning more, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Shalom Aleichem שלום עליכם
Excellent video.
Thank you Peppah!
Wow you’re information is amazing!
Thank You Robert!!
I've found worms love to leave cocoons in lumps of grass cuttings(in irish winters ) ...
Nice video ,thanks !
oh wow! Thank you!!
Instead of sand, I grind eggshells in a nutribullet. It adds calcium with the grit
Yeah! That's the best option, eggshells!!
Banana peels blended up with biochar in an old blender. Pour over top of the worm farm. Appreciate the worm & biochar video. #earthloveglobal #biochar #worms
Good idea
That helps with the dust also! Brilliant!
Great information. You’ve inspired me to try and make some biochar
It is one of the best amends for your soil! If you were to invest in any soil amend, this would be my first choice!
Very good video
Thank you!!
Gracias un saludo desde Peten Guatemala.
It seems that the biochart you add is really fine.
I precompose in the chicken coop the vegetable scraps thier I add my charcoal.
Feed the chicken and the worms.
Saludos! Gracias por tu comentario! Si, activar el biochar via el gallinero es una excelente practica. La rason por la cuel este material es tan fino es porque asi vino. Una vez empieze hacer mi propio biochar, espero este invierno, no sera de esa contextura. Gracias por compartir!
I run worm farming alongside Bokashi, this takes care of all my kitchen waste except bones. I put these in a wire tray and burn them, then I crush the remains into a powder and feed it to my worms as their grit/calcium source. I am definitely going to add some ground up biochar now, normally I dump it into the compost bin. Thank you for your easy to understand videos
Thank you Laineebee!!! Great idea on the crushing calcified bone meal!
Another great thing to do with charred bones is to soak them in apple cider vinegar (with mother) for a few days to make water soluble cal-phos concentrate. Put a little in a watering can to fertilize the garden right before bud & bloom phase.
The burnt bone char you are adding is actually as good as wood char, if not better. It doesn't have to be wood to be biochar. Any carbon source will do.
@@laneeacannon1450 That's awesome!! Thank you!
Thank you Laineebee! I feed bokashi to my worms too. Good stuff!
This is fascinating.
Thank you!!
Awesome! I've used biochar in my compost before, but putting it in my 2 X 4 ft flow throw worm bin will be much a much better way to charge the biochar. This year will be the best yet!
Yeah! It is pretty amazing!! I love adding it to my top and bottom bins.
Add the compost as well as the castings. Once the wigglers are done, toss it into some compost add organic flour and let it set for a week or 2 depending on how warm it is.
I soak my Char in liquid ferts first to make it non hydrophobic, let it soak up all the inputs, then add it to the solids to set, and let everything breed. Watch for the peak of activity, then when you see dying biology, use it.
@@BigWesLawns Thank you for the tips!!! Great info!!
I know its 1 yr later but well explained bro very easy for beginners to understand too 👌good luck 🍀
Thank you!!!
I grind up oyster shells to add chitin to the bins, also crab and lobster shells.
A few things I am no longer adding to my bins are thick skinned fruits, unless I grew them. Pineapples, bananas, melons, citrus, sure I am forgetting a few. The reason being is the load of pesticides these skins may or may not have. I do hot compost, so these materials are delegated to 150F temperatures to hopefully break down any harmful residues.
Stay Well!!!!
Thank you!!! Yeah, pineapples specially have a very thick skin. The food supply is become more and more compromised because of pesticides, antibiotics....etc... one more reason to create your own fertilizer. I have used crab sells too. Great stuff!!
I gather my char from campground fire pits as well. I tried collecting from wildfire burn areas in Northern California but the quality of the char is much better in the fire pits.
yeah! It is pretty good! I am hoping to make some this winter!
Allow me a small correction: Inactivated biochar is just charcoal.
Yes! What makes it biochar is the activation. But, it's common to refer to untreated wood charcoal as biochar.
Best explanation I've seen 👏
Thank you Rodolfo!
I add fresh unwashed seaweed to my bin the worms love it they’re all over it from the first night.
wow!!!! That's definitively a good one!! Thank you!
Great video, I have a wood stove and a hungry worm bin. Will give biochar in the worm bin and see if it makes a difference.
Thank you Denis!
Great video! Thanks, I learned a lot. When you apply your worm castings to your garden bed, is it useless if they are dried up?
Dried castings are pretty depleted when it comes to microorganism and enzymes. You still have mineral nutrients. But, the real benefit of worm castings come from the life in it. Once dried, you lose a lot of that. You also do not want to store them for long periods of time without an energy source like carbon/brown material or small amounts of fresh food.
Fascinating stuff. I've been looking into biochar as a way to improve the friability of my heavy clay soil here in Central Texas. I hadn't considered the relationship it may have with worms. I don't find many worms in my clay soil, but the few I have seen have been MASSIVE earthworms. I mean really long, like nearly 12 inches.
Though I know vermicomposting is typically done with red worms, not earthworms.
Thank you! Biochar will help your soils, even as just charcoal--it become biochar once the charcoal is inoculated with microbes. Long 12 inches worms could be European night crawlers of asian jumping worms--these guys are big and they thrash around like snakes--not bueno! With heavy clay, adding as much organic matter as possible is the way to go. Thanks for checking out the video!
Bonjour. Je suis fan de votre chaîne TH-cam.
Envisagez vous une vidéo pour savoir quel pourcentage de biochar utiliser en pot ?
Merci beaucoup.
Bonjour! Merci pour votre participation! Vous pouvez ajouter généreusement du biochar. Je l'ajoute dans le même rapport que j'ajoute des coquilles d'œufs ou d'autres sources de gravier. Je dirais 5 à 10 parties de biochar pour 100 parties de litière.
Tarzana, CA...I use crushed leaves, shredded cardboard, grass clippings and urine to add to my worm bin.
Awesome!! I used to live in Topanga Canyon!!
I add molasses to my wormbin. The worms love it
Jane, I have been thinking about this!!!! Because the sugar will likely feed lots of microorganism and create a feast for the worms! How do you do it? do you pour it in or do you mix with something?
@@GardensofNewEngland I get Molasses in a squeeze bottle and squeeze some on top of the feed going into the bin at some feedings
Hola Francisco.
Le pregunto amigo -- sí mantiene una página en español?
Muy importante e informativo en lo que veo aquí en su TH-cam
Gracias
Jose
Jose,
Estoy en esas! Lo mantendré al tanto cuando traduzca estos dos últimos videos. Aquí va el link de un video para que me encuentre:
th-cam.com/video/u0e-mTnSByM/w-d-xo.html
@@GardensofNewEngland gracias!
Once again ‘ thank you
my greater question and particular notation was that - the 61 worms never surfaced , made no attempt to indicate they needed out ,,, I check the these bins once a week = never saw them
(At one point ‘ this bin did produce 2 dead worms which surfaced and then died ‘ which I removed )
I will reevaluate each of the factors you pointed out
Thank you
T, after I answered your question, I keep thinking about this comment. I think they might have not had enough food. So, I would add a bit of food scraps every now and then to accelerate the colonization of microbiology in your bit. Just a bit, you always want to have more bedding. I hope that helps, keep me posted, and best of luck!
where was this filmed? the location looks gorgeous
Mostly NY!
Great video! Good idea about mushroom inoculation. . . curious about your two bin system
The two bin system was a game changer for me!! Because it allowed me to comfortably process more food waste and bring the system indoors without any issues with fluids or smells. I love this set up! I go more in depth in some of the other videos.
th-cam.com/users/shortsveAssYJg-yM?feature=share
Let me know if you have any questions!
@@GardensofNewEngland How does that compare to a flow through system that is so popular? Will check out the video!
@@TheVigilantStewards It is basically the same concept except you do it in a bin vs an open space. That is how I harvest my castings. I do not sift. The bottom bin is something flow through systems usually do not have. When I think flow through, I think an outdoors set up. This is a miniature version of it with a kicker punch added via a bottom bin filled with wood chips to maximize carbon ratio.
Great praise the Lord!
Thank YOU!
❤
Add cow manure to increase worm population in your soil or composting system. There are many of them crowling in there when you move the manure.
I have been thinking about it!!! I got a source of cow manure and I notice worms love it in the garden.
My first thought regarding biochar in vermiculture composting was that the biochar would enrich the castings by providing an exponential increase in places for microorganisms to live. The resulting castings would be superior for soil and plant improvement. You seem to suggest (or do you) that there's actually two benefits here, to the castings and the worms
Barry, absolutely, there is more than two. Worms benefit not only because of microbial habitat and diversity, but also because biochar will help stabilize ph and humidity. In the soil, biochar has a many different benefits, including preventing bleaching of nutrients, providing microorganism habitat, and ultimately increasing long term fertility. Ancient indigenous tribes used biochar to improve soils in the Amazon basin where constant rain drains soils of nutrients. The fertility in those fields its still stronger than areas without biochar. It is a win-win situation in many different ways. Biochar can also help us, humans, put carbon back into the soil.
Barry, ummmmm, this microbial homesteading has been a know attribute of biochar for, well, thousands of years.
@@curiousbystander9193 And .....ummmmm......your point is? I have been educating MANY people about the benefits of biochar in their home gardens. Just as Barry is very effectively disseminating information to others who are not as "educated" as yourself....a very rewarding thing to do! Perhaps you could try to pass on some of your knowledge as well, rather than taking snide potshots at other people's efforts in trying to improve the lives of others! FACT ..... I have met MANY people who have had no clues about the benefits of biochar amendment to their gardens AND they are very GRATEFULL for learning such! 😀🙏🍀😀
@@keithnotley2440 ummm, you musta missed my redundancy.....if you watched the video, it would be hard to not see my point....
@@curiousbystander9193 You missed my point ... ummmm....you think I am remotely interested in any self- appreciating opinions you extort? Just keep rolling along in your self absorbed world, your miserable existence of negativity is not something that is appreciated by any clear- thinking person. Goodbye and continue to marinate in your "perceived" superiority! 😂🖕😂 PS- Spellcheck has been "know" for, well, decades! 🤣😀🤣
I love using biochar in the making of my worm bedding I also mix in basalt rock powder and kelp meal which is mainly for nutrition and immune support for my plants and I feel like when the microbes and worms process these materials they are making them more plant available.
Thank you Jordan! It is awesome that you use your composting system to pre-digest different amends!
I just got my worms today! I also put azomite rock dust in there along with spirulina, moringa & beet root powder, oyster shell powder, charred crushed egg shells left over from making WCAP, LAB soaked cardboard, all kinds of goodies. I'm out of biochar so I'll have to make some more.
I add a great deal of fruit and vegetables into my vermicomposting bins so I end up with an overly moist environment in my bins. I only have holes on the lids. I just recently started adding biochar to help absorb the excess moisture and inoculate the biochar. When these bins are ready to be harvested I will see how my plants respond.
Another item I’m working with is sea water. I’ve soaked biochar in the water and then I will place it into a five gallon bucket that is covered but only place holes underneath that way worms can get in if it becomes a suitable environment. The reason for this experiment is to inoculate with the various minerals and nutrients of ocean water.
Karen, thanks for the comment! Do you have a catching system or bottom container to capture excess fluids? I fill the bottom bin with wood chips and that works great, catching excess fluids and creating a whole new world for the worms who want to venture down. Raw food scraps produce a lot of excess humidity. I LOVE sea water; I mix it with fresh water, worm castings and comfrey. It is a great way to add trace minerals to your system! I have never tried sea water and biochar but I think it is a brilliant idea!
@@GardensofNewEngland I currently have only four bins and I’ve recently added a bottom container to only one of those. I added the biochar with the intention of it soaking up some of the excess moisture from beneath. I’ve added it to all of the bins. I live in the southeast which is tropical with high humidity and I have several mature trees on site to provide leaves and branches. Your bottom bin idea with the wood chips is a wonderful idea which I intend to implement here. I already have a leaf pile and other piles consisting of woody debris and palms so I can easily add those down below. I end up with more food scraps than I know what to do with. I also have two bokashi bins in the system which is a big help. This year I hope to better monitor how much food I’m composting and how much compost I’m getting back in return. It certainly has helped me to not have to buy so much soil or vermicompost.
@@karensterling5246 Yeah, the bottom catching system made a big difference for me, specially because I have to bring the bins indoor during winter. The wood chips are almost a fool-proof addition for managing indoor composting. I keep a regular thermophilic compost pile in summer to add excess food scraps because I do not have enough bins and I do not want to risk my bins overheating due to excess food scraps. Sounds like you have a great system in place!! Keep it up!
@@GardensofNewEngland do you have videos on the thermophilic compost pile? I was considering doing a separate bin primarily for black soldier flies since they have a reputation for demolishing a broad range of material fast.
I enjoy my time in my garden between the plants and the worms but I would also love do it all in a more efficient manner. Thanks for feedback and thanks for your videos. Have a wonderful night.
@@karensterling5246 I have a video on how to compost Japanese knotweed but it is more about composting that particular plant than about the compost system itself. But, that is my compost pile. I do not calculate any rations for that system, just add brown and green material as it becomes available. It also becomes a great environment for runaway worms. If you are concerned about rodents, I would be careful with an outdoor open compost system. If that is the case, it may be worth just getting a closed composting bin or a trash can you can close tight and drill holes around it and on the bottom. I am thinking about trying that this year, but my concern is bears not rodents!
I have a 4’ X 8’ X1.5’ flow through worm bin. My bedding is primarily peat with screened compost and some sawdust. My worm chow is made of: oat flour, corn meal, brown rice flour, Spiralina, finely ground egg shell, finely ground nuts or almond flour, and sometimes coffee grounds; in addition to some food scraps from time to time: brown bananas, apple cores, wilted lettuce melon, etc.
I also make biochar which I add to my vermi-compost, but have not added that to the worm bin. My question is how much biochar should I add to approximately 50 cf of worm bedding?
Your thoughts?
I usually add about 0.5% compared to the total volume of the bin. You can't really add too much because it is a carbon material that wont really negatively impact temperature or acidity. A rule of thumb, I use as I would use eggshells--generously applying it to fresh food scraps. It being a carbon source, you could add a lot more. With biochar a small amount goes a long way.
I have a 5 gallon bucket of biochar I made last fall, and was struggling with how to best inoculate it w/out making a bubbler system. My worms are going to be very happy! On another note, I am struggling with how to harvest my vermicast. I e tried screening it but feel like my worms are falling they even 1/8" mesh. Will you be doing a video soon on this topic? I havea tiered bin system as well as the style you show.
Thank you for the idea Hope, I will include that on my next video. I use the divider mesh and allow worms to travel to where there is new food. Some worms will linger in the castings but I usually add them into the garden beds. I do not go through the casting to pick out worms. Worms will just naturalize in your garden beds. I harvested some this morning for my house plants and there was not a single worm in the old castings because I added fresh food three weeks ago and there are on it! I will do some research and discuss on my next video. Thank you!
One suggestion is to put scraps in middle and add layer if mulch. Feed only once a month and harvest the top layer until you see eggs and worms
@@alarasvoboda8962 Thank you!! Great idea.
Unsulfured organic molasses is great for feeding bacteria. When I water, I add one tablespoon per gallon of water that's been treated to remove chloramine.
How often do you water? My bins produce enough moisture so I don't water. But, I am curious as to folks that add water to their bins regularly.
@@GardensofNewEngland I image that's true for the majority of worm composters. I live in Zone 9B with very low humidity and a breeze every afternoon. I typically check moisture once each week. In the summer, it usually requires 1-1/2 pints to keep the top five inches moist in a 30 gallon container. Everything below that tends to stay in range.
Removes chloramine? How does that work? I thought chloramine was the chemically stable form of chlorine which doesn't break down?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I completly agree with your thoughts on adding biochar to a warm bin. However, i never thought of doing such a thing although I've cared for my bosses warms years ago and just reasently got warms of my own. I've also used biochar in my garden in the past and was blown away by the results. i've understood how biochar works in the garden but never thought of useing it in a warm bin.
Best to believe i will be adding biochar to my warm bin as soon as they get setdled in. which leads to me to this question, would it be best to add a small amount of biochar because i have a very small amount of warms around 120 to 200 but they are giant red warms. my plan is to add more over time as im able to afford them so i wont to make them fat dumb and happy so they will begin to breed and grow in poplluation. so will the biochar zap too much nutrians from the bin before it becomes a benefit? Or should I add it to some warm food first for while and then add it the to bin?
Thank you for your time and thanks again in advance!
James,
Biochar is pretty awesome! I had some and one day I thought to add it to the bin and I love the added dimension, filtration benefit, and the fact that it is charged within my worm system. I do not believe biochar sequesters nutrients the way wood chips so. Biochar tends to have a negative charge and it holds on to nutrients on its surface and that way they are available to microbes and plants. I would not be worry about biochar taking nutrients out, more than anything it is providing a stable structure for microbes and nutrients. I would definitively start with a small amount. It goes a very long way, if you have a catching system, you could also add to your catching system like I do. There, you can put more. I hope that helps! there is a lot of research being done on biochar, microbes and carbon sequestration, so the data is still new.
@@GardensofNewEngland I understand what you're saying, however biochar will zap nutrients and hold it then release it back into the soil, it's highly absorbent. The fact that it's porist allows for microbs to live in it and as they multiply then you see goodness in your soil.
True story as how I know how good biochar is. A dirty relative of mine kept peaing in my garden in hopes of killing it, it smelled like a back alie. So I added in some biochar and watered it in after mixing it into the soil. By the next day the smell was completely done. Pea is very high in nitrogen and this is what you smell in human pea. This is proof this stuff absorbs like crazy. But I didn't have to feed my plants for some time from offset of balance in my garden.
But yet, if you soak in something like casting tea or compost tea before adding to the garden then it won't zap and hold nutrients until the microbs can multiply because these teas are high in microbs to start with. But in my worm bin that I'm trying to astablish has me so scared of harming my worm's but I'm not sure what to use for the biochar to absorb before I add it in. I know it will make more food available for the worm's but I'm worried what happens before this time comes.
If I had a pound or more of worms I would feel much better about it.
So any suggestions on what I should soak it in first?
@@jamesfrankland4436 you could soak it in water with a pinch of sea-salt and sugar, or if you are close to the sea, I would do 1 part sea-water per 100 parts of fresh water and add some organic sugar or molasses. It would give microbes a boost in energy and minerals. But, in all honesty, I do not think you need to do that unless you are going to make biochar your main bedding materials. If I was you, I would start with a little bit of biochar and put it in a corner of the bin to let it do its thing before you add it all over the bin. If you have very few worms, I would not do biochar until you colony is fully established. I hope that gives you some ideas.
@@GardensofNewEngland thanks it truly does and thanks for your time and help Garden's of New England. Blessings to you
If you need to water, make sure to remove the chloramine first (large cities in the US are no longer using chlorine). High capacity KDF85 filters from Camco and Boogie Blue are about 70% effective in removing chloramine - when new. The remaining chloramine can be removed with powdered sodium ascorbate or vitamin C. 1/8 teaspoon is more than enough to treat 5 gallons. It only takes a minute when the water is agitated vigorously. Filters with KDF85 technology cost around $65 and are typically rated to treat 8k gallons. Less expensive filters without this technology do not remove chloramine, regardless of what the manufacturer claims.
Thank you
I have been building a home for worms in ground and added leafs from Autumn and Biochar from left over barbecue and worms are thriving beneath bedding of many different leafs.
Thank you!!
Great info very informative as I've been studying microbes in the air soil and water for over 13 years now. Just now starting vermin culture.
Thank you!! Biochar is a great addition to nurture soil biology. In what capacity are you studying microbes?
In addition I am organic farmer on kibbutz. And, I wanted to add that the science of microbes "bugs" is an old study found in the Hebrew words.
Shalom Aleichem שלום עליכם
I don't know if you received my first reply to your query.
@@azanyahhakahan1074 Thank you for sharing! It is a fascinating universe under the microscope! What kind of set up do you have? I imagine the heat is a concern there.
@@GardensofNewEngland well as I mentioned, I just started with the worms, the research was my primary focus and your knowledge thus far has been better than any. I tried a couple of years ago to get a bin started, and was unsuccessful. I'm using worms I find in our gardens, which are very plentiful. They either would be off or they would escape. This year we're letting the land rest from planting from season to the next. I haven't had to deal with the heat just yet. However given the information you gave, I understand that in this heat of late spring and summer about 70°c to 44°c will be quit challenging. Currently, I'm using a two tier bucket system with a decider between food and and leaf bedding. I have several varieties of trees, there are oak, l
If anyone has to do a dissertation by correlating biochar and vermi compost, what could be done?
Can you please suggest it...
I got this thought seeing t
Your video.
I would start with the following questions:
1. Is there a difference in microbial mass and microbial bio-diversity between vermicompost with and without biochar?
2. Was there a difference in the nutrient content when you add biochar?
3. Worm health: I would try to identify key worm health metrics and see if there is a difference.
4. Biochar activation: What was difference between biochar activated in a worm bin vs another methods, like compost tea or manure?
5. What types of microorganism are more likely to thrive in the presence of biochar inside the worm bin?
6. When used as a soil amend, what as the difference in soil nutrient profile and plant health after using vermicompost with biochar and vermicompost without biochar? The lead question here would be: is biochar adding value by serving as a living capsule for microorganisms, traveling from a worm bin to the soil?
7. Is any evidence of biochar acting as a slow release fertilizer once introduced to soil?
… thank you
so far this bin is doing good,, no evidence of dead worms, no attempted escapes,,,, I’m due to take it down on the Nov 19th (the end of 8 weeks)
new question:
as far as carbon percentages go’ is “lump charcoal” good enough assuming it is absent of any chemicals as a Biochar substitute?
Thx
Lump you mean the stuff you buy at the store? I would make sure you know exactly what it is. For Biochar to work you need the carbon structure of the plant to remain intact as to serve for microbial habitat. If it is some sort of compound wood residue, it might not be as effective. Camp grounds is a good place to get your hands on free biochar. A small amount goes a LONG way.
I would not count biochar as a big part of your carbon ratio because the benefit of it is that it resist decay. So, it wont break down as easily which is why it is a great home for microorganisms. I would think about it more as an amend, something to enhance your bin. For the carbon to nitrogen ratio, I would focus on carbon sources that will decompose more easily, like leaves and cardboard. I hope that makes sense.
Do you have a recommended ratio or percentage of biochar vs dirt, compost and brown material in the base?
Biochar is practically Brown material so you can be generous with it. It is pretty neutral material. I would say 2-4% of total volume of the bin is ok. I add a few handfuls here and there when I feed the bin. Usually put on top of the food scraps/bokashi compost to help neutralize acidity.
I have been a worm farmer since the late 70's. This is the first year I have bought organic biochar instead of making my own. ( it was a biproduct of making charcoal foe sketching) .was wondering if I should mix it with worm castings so it will be ready to use in my large pots that I garden on my deck.
yes, you can mix with worm castings or you can add it to the bin. I add it to the food scraps when I feed the worms. It has a lot of benefits!
@@GardensofNewEngland thanks.
@@GardensofNewEngland I am new to gardening and composting. I started composting last year and preparing my yard to take raised beds that I will use for growing vegetables. I heard about biochar. I was advised that it is supposed to be mixed in with compost but that I could mix it with worm castings. I have read some scientific papers online that say biochar increases the acidity in the soil. As my soil is 6.5 to 7.00, I am wondering it the biochar will make it too acidic. Looking for advice on this please?
@@anajinn Biochar is pretty ph neutral. Are you referring to wood ash? That can cause very alkaline conditions, so you do have to be careful. But, biochar, I do not believe will increase acidity. I actually use it to neutralize acidity in my worm bins. It is essentially carbon material, pretty stable. What usually increases acidity is food or organic material that undergoes fermentation, as some bacteria (specially anaerobic) releases more acids as they break down food. The thing about biochar is that a small amount goes a very long way so you can just add a little. Remember, all things break down to a neutral ph, so if you are concerned about it, put it through your compost pile first.
unleash the worms
… new question/thought for you
If I understand correct’ - perlite is volcanic glass “glass” ,,, (glass cuts tissue 🤷🏻♂️)
so from a technical stand point ‘ is perlite safe for worms to eat (use as grit)
and ‘ is this what killed my 61 worms ? 🤷🏻♂️
this is a thought 💭 I’m loosing sleep over
what are your thoughts ‘ thx
T, I do not think perlite would kill your worms. I have not heard anything that makes me think so. But, I also have not used it in my bins. I think your worms might have died after completing their lifecycle. I would be more concern if you do not see eggs or baby worms by now. How is the bin doing?
This is amazing!!! Please correct me if I'm wrong, but biochar is basically the unburnt, but still charred throughout? The stage between having been the initial wood or plant and becoming ashes... To make it, you would build a fire, and once the flames die down to a smolder, douce it, and the remaining charred chunks are the biochar?
I know that they're a purchased product and not consumable, but would those clay hydropellets work the same way as to housing microbes?
Anne, (I am assuming that is your name) Biochar is plant tissue burned in the absence of oxygen. An easy way to make it to put a turkey pot--with the lid and all--filled with wood into a fire. The lid will keep the oxygen out. Biochar is not partially burned wood; it is wood completely charred in the absence of oxygen. You can get free material from fire pits in state parks. The wood in the bottom of the pit will likely burn in the absence of oxygen and when people pour water on top, they stop the fire thus the bottom wood is never exposed to oxygen. It is not perfect, but good enough! I am not familiar with hydropellets, but what I do know is that what works about biochar as microbial habitat is all the ducts and intricate networks of tissue inside a plant that remain pretty much intact when the wood is burned in the absence of oxygen. If the pellets are processed woods, I would imagine most of the original structure is gone. I hope that helps!!
there's a bunch of video examples on youtube
@@curiousbystander9193 Thank You!!! What are they call?
umm, just do a search... you could spend half a day watching biochar videos
@@curiousbystander9193 lol! Awesome, thank you!
How do you get the bio chair out when you're done? Or do i sell it for more weight to my castings.
It becomes part of the castings! You can add more because your castings have activated biochar and send them a link to the video so they know what they are getting!
Oh ok.
Instead of sand you could add basalt rock dust as a grit as it is a great source of trace minerals and such
Thank you!! I only use sand about once a year to add something new. I use eggshells primarily. I have been on the fence about rock dust because of lead--even though it is very low level, I already have lead levels in one of my community gardens, so I have been concerned about adding even a small amount. Thoughts?
@@GardensofNewEngland I'm not sure on specific contents.you could source a rock dust with less lead I'm sure of it . I gave mine volcanic rock dust(basically volcanic ash) as this was my most easily obtained rock dust ,so far the worms seem to not be affected in any negative way
@@donavinnezar Cool! I m going to look into it. Volcanic ash is very rich in minerals!
@@donavinnezarbasalt is a primary volcanic rock
You have to be careful with rock dust for two reasons. 1) Make 100% sure you're getting glacial rock dust. Have the seller confirm this in writing! Else it could very easily be mining waste that contains nasty stuff you would not want in a biodynamic system. 2) Be aware of over-doing it. Some things like boron become harmful in high concentrations. So better to use it as part of a mix that contains other sources like baked/finely ground egg shells, native soil, silt collected from puddles after a rain storm or food-grade diatomaceous earth. Aquarium sand is generally recognized as safe and can be screened to a size more suitable for worms. I've also screened propagation grade pumice (fines less than 1/8"). Not much in the scientific literature on mesh size, but 150 seems to be a good compromise.
I once put half of over ripened water melon into the bin and discovered the earth worm population exploded inside bin with hundreds consuming the rotten water melon.
Very popular with worms!!! :)
Van die beste voorleggings oor biochar en erdwurms . Ja in Namibia is die water hou vermoé baie belangrik met ons hoé hitte om verdamping te stop.
Dankie vir jou kommentaar!!! Ek waardeer dit en ek is bly jy het waarde daaruit gekry!
I add bio char, kelp, rock dust with blended vegetable peels. After 4-6 days, I don’t see any food but just increased worm population in that section. I have been debating whether I should add mycorrhiza fungi to the worm bin or will it make it bad with all the spores. I am too concerned about harming the worms to just try. Can someone let me know please.
Watch out for heavy metals in rock dust. Some of them are at very low levels but they accumulate over time. I add mychorrhiza fungi to my catching system in the form of king stropharia mycelium. I added it to the catching system, however, not directly to into the top bin. Just got my first harvest of mushrooms this year!!! Here is what I have:
th-cam.com/video/bX4Zo9bhIRA/w-d-xo.html
I have a wood burning stove, are the chunks that don’t burn biochar? If so, how would I add thst to my bin?
Robin, yes they are! You can crush and add to your bin--make sure they do not have ashes. Ash is very alkaline and will significantly change the ph of your vermicompost. You can even wash the biochar or charcoal, dry and then use. You can also add whole pieces of charcoal to a catching system if you have something like a bottom bin with wood chips. Technically biochar is charcoal that has been inoculated with microbiology, so until you add the charcoal to your bin, it is just charcoal. Once it is exposed to soil or compost biology, it becomes biochar. I know it is a bit confusing. But, eI hope that helps!
Thanks!
My soil has a PH of between 6.5 and 7. Will Biochar take it out of range? I heard that it does.
Ana, can you share the source of this information? Biochar is pretty stable carbon material. I actually use it to neutralize acidity in my bins.
@@GardensofNewEngland The are a few sources on the internet. They are scientific papers mostly - universities. There was no one source.
in canada they don t let you compost leaf, they say it is to dangerous...
What is the danger? How can they stop you from composting leaves when they are everywhere?
Isn't it only charcoal, it only becomes bio-char when you activated it? Nice video :)
yes! That is correct! But, when you are going to buy it; it is much easier to identify it by calling it biochar. Charcoal can get confused with some of the commercial compounds for grills--which wont give you the same results that the carbon structure of unprocessed natural wood does.
@@GardensofNewEngland So does composting activate it, or are there other ways please?
Can I use wood shavings instead of wood chips?
You can but they are more likely to compact under the weight of the top bin. You can use a mix with shavings and large bark. The key is airflow btw particles and resistance to compaction.
Thanks for placing a question by the end of the video as I learned from the comments and see the variety of ways people are working with the worms to produce fertilizer. Once I find a way to block mice and rats from getting into the bins I intend to throw meat into the mix. I have put road kill such as coyotes, my dog and, ultimately, would be happy to recycle my own body in the worm bin. Would anybody know in what book Henry Miller says something like: "The worms are the most useful creatures created by Mother Nature for men. Go figure!" I did and it's been a great journey that will lead to my community food forest. Thank You for your great videos from Santa Cruz, California.
Nelson, thanks for your comment! Someone mentioned black soldier flies as a way to compost meat and then feed that compost to their worms. I have not tried BSF but I think they will be much more effective at decomposing meat than worms--at least on the first round! I love CA! I lived in Humboldt and LA for years.
I have a small-scale composting operation (currently increasing capacity from 8 yards to 12 yards). I use a variety of methods: active pile, static pile, 50 gallon tumblers, 20-30 gallon worm bins and trench. IMO, animals are best suited to trench composting. I would recommend digging the trench 4' deep x minimum 3' wide x long enough to meet you demand for four years - or better yet - four trenches long enough to meet your demand for one year. Fill the bottom foot of the trench with large diameter logs and fill in the gaps with a 50/50 mixture of wood chips and nitrogen source (if using manure, make sure it's free of herbicides, especially aminopyralid). Put the animal(s) on the next layer and make sure they are completely surrounded by several inches of carbon source. Wood fines like Kellogg Amend work good for this purpose. Top this with a conventional C/N mixture until it's two feet above ground level. Keep adding C/N mixture as the pile settles. After the level stabilizes, it will take another four years to complete decomposition. That's why I mentioned the option for four trenches. If you fill one per year, eventually you'll end up with continuous production. I hope this helps and good luck with your project.
Another good option for animals is to bury them 4' deep and plant a fruit tree on top.
Thank you, just figuring out their best food and bedding combination. 3 question if you please. Do the worms consume the bio-char, How often should you replace the bio-char and how much in a starter bin? Thank you again for your knowledge. Rob
Rob, I ended up buying some very fine biochar by accident and I love it because it becomes part of the castings and worms are probably using it as grit. Biochar naturally resist decay so it wont decompose easily. I do not replace the biochar because it becomes part of the castings and it goes into the garden. If you had bigger particles, I would put it into the bottom bin or catching system. Sometimes, I collect charcoal from fire pits at local state parks and use it that way as not to have big chucks of material in the main bin--not that it would bother me but knowing it wont breakdown easily, makes me want to keep it with the wood chips in the bottom. Biochar is carbon so you can use quite a bit of it without causing issues, but I would start with maybe 1-2 percent of the total volume and go from there. I use quite a bit because it helps me neutralize acidity in fresh bokashi compost which is what I feed my worms. I hope that makes sense!! Ask further questions if something is not clear.
I have been using 3-1/2% by volume just because that's the minimum required to improve moisture regulation when the finished compost is added to my native soil. The exception is avocado trees. For them I would recommend 10% minimum - and make sure to police your inputs for sodium! In other words, no urine, manure or sea water. For more information on avocado production, I highly recommend reviewing the work of Dr. David Crowley at UC Riverside.
Is powder biochar better then bigger chunk biochar? I have a coffe grinder I can grind it to powder with. Its really expensive to buy biochar here in UK so don't want to mess it up lol
It is really a preference and using what you have at hand. Fire pits around camping grounds are often a good source of biochar. You do not need a lot of it. Just little bit goes a VERY long way. You can make your own biochar in a fireplace or a wood stove--if you have one handy. The key is to burn some wood in the absence or partial absence of oxygen. Some folks put wood into an aluminum container with a lid--like the ones used to roast turkey, and put that into a fireplace or a bonfire, and that will give you something to work with. There are a ton of resources online. The one thing I would stay way from is the commercial charcoal pellets. I hope that helps!!
@@GardensofNewEngland a lot of the new stoves are designed to generate heat by burning the same gases as you are burning making biochar in more traditional methods.....thus, if you really damper down these news stoves, say a yotel, will note slow, incomplete burning of logs..... you have made a bunch of biochar...... older stoves, that produce more smoke and cresote tend to burn the wood entirely, no matter how much you damper them down..... and you end up with all ash and no biochar.... think old vermont casting.
@@curiousbystander9193 Brilliant! Thank you for sharing! I will look into it.
Why don’t you just buy lump charcoal made from hardwoods? It should have no chemical additives. That is the charr. All you then have to do is break it up into much smaller pieces, which is easy to do by driving over the bag with your tire or pounding it with a sledgehammer gently. Then you just inoculate it with some nutrients and water for a few days or a couple of weeks. You’ve just made your own Biochar much more cheaply than you can buy something that a company processed for you.
@@ancesthntr i've never seen any charcoal with the make of wood that it comes from. Do you have any names?
I know of a commercial worm casting supplier who feeds Bokashi Compost to his worms. Does anyone have any knowledge of the results? I know what Bokashi is. I just wonder how it works when fed to the worms.
Ana, I feed bokashi to my worms. I have another video where I explain the process in great length. Bokashi is VERY acidic so you have to be very careful and neutralize the acidity when you add it to the bin. I use egg shells, biochar, and bone meal to neutralize acidity and limit the food to one section of the bin as to not make the entire system acidity at once. Once bokashi breaks down further, the acidity will level out to a more neutral point. Here is that other video:
th-cam.com/video/omuxBonQUnk/w-d-xo.html
@@GardensofNewEngland Can you please send me the link to feeding Bokashi to worms ?
@@anajinn th-cam.com/video/omuxBonQUnk/w-d-xo.html
@@GardensofNewEngland Thank you.
@@anajinn You are welcome!!
Please order the amount of biochar from the total nutrient environment?
I would add it in the same proportion to grit or egg shells up to 3-5% of the total volume of the bin. It can cause no harm but if your bin leans towards being too dry it will absorb some of the humidity.
Can i add biochar into my composting system? If so where can i purchase biochar.
Yes you can!! It is a wonderful addition. I put a link to the one I got on amazon. It is very small grain.
amzn.to/44CKI94
You can make your own Biochar fairly easily and cheaply by purchasing lump hardwood charcoal that has no fillers or chemical additives. It will say these things on the outside of the package. That is the char. You break it into smaller pieces by running over the bag a few times with your tire, or using a sledgehammer gently on the pieces. If you want to break it down into a very fine particulate, you can put it in an old blender or coffee grinder that you get at Goodwill or a garage sale. Then all you need to do is inoculate it with a variety of nutrients and (hopefully filtered or pure) water for 10 to 15 days, and it’s ready to use anywhere without drawing out nutrients.
@@ancesthntr where do you buy the lump hardwood charcoal?
Thank you the information. I have compost in trash binds outfitted to provide the proper airflow. After purchasing the Biochar, do I then need to put it in the compost bins for 15 days? Or can I apply it to my yard( using Back to Eden Method? I have mostly fruit trees and berry bushes.
@@BrovaKain_357 for biochar to be more effective you want to activate it by exposing it to beneficial microbes. You can mix it with worm castings and apply or you can add it to the bin for a more thorough inoculation. If you add it as it is, you will get the benefits eventually because the microbes in your orchard will eventually colonize the char. But, for faster more effective results, you want to "activate" the biochar either via your bin, worm tea, or mixing it with compost or another source of healthy microbiology. I hope that helps!
We took all their food away for too many years; throwing the grass out, et cetera.
thank you ‘ for the prompt response
the question stems from the following scenario:
2 gallons bucket, escape proof yet well vented, squeeze test passed, average temp 70 degrees, all carbon bedding (ph)
started with 220 worms
carben only bedding- perlite, moss, coir
mycorrhiza, limestone
“No” added food (no food at all)
post 8 weeks ‘ I harvested the bucket ,, and !…
61 worms were missing/unaccounted for, no carcass, never surfaced as sick 🤷🏻♂️
? lack of food, ? the bedding content
thx’ let me know your thoughts ??
You might be dealing with the natural lifecycle of the worms, they will naturally die and your population should replenish based on reproduction. Did you see any eggs? Where did you get your worms? what kind?
Things that I would consider would be: size of the bucket, 2 gallon might be too small. If you used peat moss that can sometimes be a bit acidic. I have also heard coco-coir can have a high sodium content depending on where it came from, so you might need to wash it. I use leaves to avoid any issues with bedding. Another thing that comes to mind is the fact that you are counting your worms. You do not want to handle them too much as their bodies are fragile and you can potentially cause internal damage when picking them up. Once you got everything in place, I would put them in a cool place and let them be for awhile. Also be careful with "escape proof." Once you have your system set up, your worms wont try to escape if the conditions are optimal. If you put them in sealed environment, that can cause different problems, including potential accumulation of toxic gases and not enough oxygen. You want your worms to be able to escape if they need to. I use a bottom bin with wood chips to give them a escape area if things are not right in the top bin. I just published a video on the set up I use. If you want to see how I set it up, check that out. When worms escape, they are letting you know something is wrong. Escape means they got down to the floor, versus when they naturally linger on the inside walls of your bin. When they hang around the inside walls that does not mean they are trying to escape. Sometimes, when you move the bin to a new location after they are settled, they try to escape, but more often than not, if there is food, they are good. FYI, blue worms like to escape a lot more than red wrigglers.
I would also add a bit of food, like banana peels or pulp from a juicer to get the biology going. Perlite is a neutral material and it will not feed anything. Maybe there was not enough microbiology for worms to eat.
Just some thoughts to consider. Sounds like you are doing all the right things!! I would give them some food, leaves them be for awhile, and keep on learning! You are way ahead of most people.
How much biochar should you add to a worm bin and how often is it recommended? Thanks in advance...
I add in abundance! It is harmless and has lots of benefits. I would say I go up to 1-4% of the total volume of the bin. Think handful! I add more biochar than eggshells at this point. I add it on top of fresh food scraps to help neutralize acidity and get it biology going right away. I feed every 6 weeks so that's roughly the frequency. It is a wonderful addition to your bin. It is a carbon rich material like the bedding. I hope that helps!
@@GardensofNewEngland Hi, thank you very much for the info and for replying. This will help a lot, since there are so many videos and websites on the benefits but the practical side of using the biochar in a worm bin, seems to be left out. The nitty gritty! Well from what I've researched anyway! Great videos...thank again!
@@user-go3ct3nq5h You are welcome! Also look at the grain level of the biochar. If you like even vermicompost, you want something that has been broken down into smaller particles--like I use in the video. If you don't care about particle size, I would use something bigger or made it myself.
@@GardensofNewEngland Thank you I appreciate, will definitely be keeping that in mind.
@@user-go3ct3nq5h you are welcome!
Great video. Since biochar is 100% carbon, will the worms eat it or will it decompose?
It will slowly decompose. It naturally resist decay which is why it is such a good structure of microbial habitat.
thank you
@@denislacasse5514 anytime!
Question:
do or can worms cannibalize within the herd ??
Thx ✔️
Worms feed primarily on microorganism. They chew food to absorb microbiology out of it. So, they will likely "eat" dead worms, but I do not believe they will go after each other. If you find more info, let me know! This is an interesting question.
No, their competition is limited to the WWF (Worm Wrestling Federation).😜😜😜
THats all open at types of process and benefits
1.slow 2 .medium 3.quick
Water pons and sea are extrimly slow bio pits ...
Pri post process means lets materials obsorbs homidity and oxigen automaticaly carban persentage increase as forcefully mixing thats it....
ADVOCADO IS WORM FAVORIT FOOD
They love avocado!!!!