you are amazing,you'are one of the most industrious kids I ever saw,only two suggestions,never work alone on anything that weighs over 750lbs,you are scaring me,and next time you handle any clutch, wear a respirator,son you could do anything after watching these videos,you remind me of me 30 years ago,hang in there
Have bee watching some of the work you are doing on your bus and I am impressed how much knowledge and capability you have in doing it all by yourself, congratulations and keep up with the great job.
Hi from New Zealand, Please keep us up-to-date. It's just interesting watching you pull this bus engine out. If I lived in USA, I ask if I can help. The knowledge you have about the mechanics, of your bus, just amazes me. Thank you for sharing this fascinating video clip. Please keep NZ up-to-date.
Glad to see you were finally able to get back to the bus. Thought maybe you had given up on it... Just read your comment below....really glad to hear you have gotten it back together...AND DRIVING!! It's been a long time!
You're doing a great job, and your engine cradle invention is top-notch, the last time I pulled an engine I cheated and used a forklift, but if I ever have to do it again, will probably build something like that. FYI, check the electrolyte and Ph levels in the coolant regularly so you do not pit the piston liners, and be careful with the fuel pump and fuel system if you work on it, as 2 cycle diesels can "run-away" or run backwards, and explode, if you search runaway Detroits on here you can see what happens, and never use oil stop leak products, they clog oil ports and passages wich the 71 series engines have a lot of small ports and passages, clogging these will damage the engine, (and the oil pressure gauge will show you pressure although some components of the engine are oil-starved, and you won't know until failure) if you have excessive oil leaks you may have to put new seals in the blower box, wich is a common issue with it. Grab a manual and have fun as that is not a hard thing to do, just remember that tolerances and torque spec's are very important with these engines. Now and then after every 50K to 100K miles or 5 to 10 years (depending on how often you run it) have the overhead done at a Detroit Authorized or Factory repair shop, running the "overhead" is like a tune-up for a diesel engine, also look into some fuel conditioners, as those old engines are not designed for today's dry fuels (low sulphur, low wax) or bio-mass fuels, you may run into fuel pump lubrication problems, engine piston problems, and injector nozzel problems because of fuel. If you overhaul it, there are updated parts, and some good aftermarket parts for older diesels running on this newer fuel that will eliminate most of those problems. Keep your clutch adjusted, and do not abuse it, Spicer clutches are not the most durable (back then or now) and keep the throw-out bearing well greased to get the most life out of it, also stay with the oil bath aircleaners, Detroits use a LOT of air and paper ones can choke, collapse, and allow debris into the engine, (wich will destroy the engine) if you want to do away with the oil bath aircleaners, then replace the entire aircleaner system with a new paper or synthetic element (like K&N) system that will provide 150% of the required CFM (I have had better fuel economy and better engine performance by over-rating the air flow) that Detroit reccomends, however for RV use the original oilbath aircleaners are not that big of headache, and will give you a lot of years of future service, and don't overfill them. Good luck with your project, and I too will like to see more progress....... If you have any questions feel free to ask, as I am happy to help, and love to see something kept in good order and as original as can be, I think you will become used to or addicted to the way those old Detroits run, and I always had fun with the ones I worked on and had over the years.
Nice reply! Thanks for all the tidbits of info. You never know when these hard learned lessons will save somebody from an extra week or two of work, a couple thousand dollars worth of parts or any combination thereof.
This is one of my favorite channels on TH-cam! Glad you're still working on this project. Hopefully you can resurface the flywheel and middle plate and simply buy 2 clutch plates and a throwout bearing and be on your way! Best of luck
SoCal308GTSiQV Thanks man! The clutch is all back installed and I have actually driven the bus a few times... just working on catching up posting the videos. You'll find out what happens in the next couple :)
I just found and watched your videos, as I've been an armchair busnut forever......Seeing you do such heavy-duty work with minimal equipment in very cold weather has given me great inspiration to kickstart a project i've been procrastinating, a 69 chevy van.......I've got some ideas for an improved dolly design for you, or even a carry-along system of removing the engine cradle without a dolly.... Sent you a FB friend request
Hey love the videos mate love stuff like this i actually saw a scenicrouse in a service station in england other day couldn't believe my eyes i asked the bloke about it hes re powered it with a big cummins would love to work on a project like your or maybe a eagle cant wait for next video mate
Hi TJ, very informative video.I have an MCI MC5 and the clutch started to slip. I have a Spicer 8245 in mine. I had to get it adjusted and that fixed it for now. I've been meaning to get the clutch changed-as the adjuster is out of adjustment. Its a drop box and 8v71 configuration. Was meaning to take out the powertrain like you, but working as a engine design engineer takes it toll on your energy level. Since then I'm currently at a crosroads in my life, selling up and stuff, so I WILL be tackling this- may be by paying someone as I go full time RVing.
I love watching your videos. I'm interested in seeing what your plans are for the future. Seems like you took on a huge project. Upload some more videos I'm dying to see the bus move under it own power
Is that a Harbor Freight hoist? I bought the one ton model to pull the engine on my 1965 Ford Mustang. With the arm extended all the way, it would not reach the center of the engine; the balance point. Removed the front bumper. That got it closer but still about 5 inches short. Drilled the arm to extend it further. the makers probably would not approve but it got the job done. Was still stable. I was worried about that. The bus only has a 4 speed? No two speed rear axle? The twin disk clutch sounds beefy.
I think you are doing a great job, those screamers are at times a hard to get into certain areas at best. Your fine invention or wherever you got the idea, it is great to work on the engine. I sure do like that set up. A question on the anti-freeze , did you say you want to save as much as possible ? Maybe I missed something here ? Fact, never reuse coolant if you are rebuilding or doing a crate engine, whatever as that is a death wish to a head gasket , among other parts of the engine. Not bad criticizing, just a friendly hint to help save many dollars along the way. .I enjoy the progress you are making. God Bless
One thing I have never understood about these buses. Why do they not have vertical shuters to face forward to help get air to the radiator when moving. I have had truckers tell me that they had to run their trucks really hard to get them hot enough to run efficiently since their rads are up front. They could be adjustable due to ambient temperature. Everything I have seen is that these can overheat easily.
These are fitted with an electirc solenoid switch for reverse but are otherwise your basic H-pattern 4 speed.:) (with double clutching required,natch! thumsb up)
Brother. I worry about all of you guys like bus grease monkey..yourself and some others.I told the story.. my brother was in a pd4106 a gospel group he was in had bought from a WIDOW..the 06 fell &crushed her hubby when an AIRBAG BURST..So these things are always looking for a way to come back down...take care!.Don't want to see ANY of you hurt.
If you want to determine the wear, you need to look at the clutch plate(s), and the pressure plate. You may need to get the plate(s) relined, and the pressure plate surface ground if you cannot find new parts. Also beware of asbestos. Mesothelioma is nothing to giggle about.
Why does TH-cam keep indicating that you've put up a new video but then when I go look, no you haven't So that's kind of annoying TH-cam. Anyway what's up, it's been a while eh?
Yep! It has been a while. Unsure why you keep getting notified. I have noticed that too in other subscriptions I have... I wonder if it is just an indicator of some sort of activity on that channel? Unsure though. I should have some additional videos up in the next 2-3 weeks. Just busy with work and other personal commitments. Thanks for the encouragement!
you are amazing,you'are one of the most industrious kids I ever saw,only two suggestions,never work alone on anything that weighs over 750lbs,you are scaring me,and next time you handle any clutch, wear a respirator,son you could do anything after watching these videos,you remind me of me 30 years ago,hang in there
Been waiting for an update on great bus. Love love your channel and can't wait to see that thing come alive again.
Have bee watching some of the work you are doing on your bus and I am impressed how much knowledge and capability you have in doing it all by yourself, congratulations and keep up with the great job.
By yourself! Very inspiring man, living the dream.
You deserve a lot of credit for all you've done. Motivated!
Great job!!!!! Looking forward to your next videos. Greetings from the Netherlands. Bart.
Hi from New Zealand,
Please keep us up-to-date. It's just interesting watching you pull this bus engine out. If I lived in USA, I ask if I can help.
The knowledge you have about the mechanics, of your bus, just amazes me.
Thank you for sharing this fascinating video clip. Please keep NZ up-to-date.
Glad to see you were finally able to get back to the bus. Thought maybe you had given up on it...
Just read your comment below....really glad to hear you have gotten it back together...AND DRIVING!! It's been a long time!
You're doing a great job, and your engine cradle invention is top-notch, the last time I pulled an engine I cheated and used a forklift, but if I ever have to do it again, will probably build something like that. FYI, check the electrolyte and Ph levels in the coolant regularly so you do not pit the piston liners, and be careful with the fuel pump and fuel system if you work on it, as 2 cycle diesels can "run-away" or run backwards, and explode, if you search runaway Detroits on here you can see what happens, and never use oil stop leak products, they clog oil ports and passages wich the 71 series engines have a lot of small ports and passages, clogging these will damage the engine, (and the oil pressure gauge will show you pressure although some components of the engine are oil-starved, and you won't know until failure) if you have excessive oil leaks you may have to put new seals in the blower box, wich is a common issue with it. Grab a manual and have fun as that is not a hard thing to do, just remember that tolerances and torque spec's are very important with these engines. Now and then after every 50K to 100K miles or 5 to 10 years (depending on how often you run it) have the overhead done at a Detroit Authorized or Factory repair shop, running the "overhead" is like a tune-up for a diesel engine, also look into some fuel conditioners, as those old engines are not designed for today's dry fuels (low sulphur, low wax) or bio-mass fuels, you may run into fuel pump lubrication problems, engine piston problems, and injector nozzel problems because of fuel. If you overhaul it, there are updated parts, and some good aftermarket parts for older diesels running on this newer fuel that will eliminate most of those problems. Keep your clutch adjusted, and do not abuse it, Spicer clutches are not the most durable (back then or now) and keep the throw-out bearing well greased to get the most life out of it, also stay with the oil bath aircleaners, Detroits use a LOT of air and paper ones can choke, collapse, and allow debris into the engine, (wich will destroy the engine) if you want to do away with the oil bath aircleaners, then replace the entire aircleaner system with a new paper or synthetic element (like K&N) system that will provide 150% of the required CFM (I have had better fuel economy and better engine performance by over-rating the air flow) that Detroit reccomends, however for RV use the original oilbath aircleaners are not that big of headache, and will give you a lot of years of future service, and don't overfill them. Good luck with your project, and I too will like to see more progress....... If you have any questions feel free to ask, as I am happy to help, and love to see something kept in good order and as original as can be, I think you will become used to or addicted to the way those old Detroits run, and I always had fun with the ones I worked on and had over the years.
Nice reply!
Thanks for all the tidbits of info.
You never know when these hard learned lessons will save somebody from an extra week or two of work, a couple thousand dollars worth of parts or any combination thereof.
8V71, dry liners, 8V92, wet liners.
This is one of my favorite channels on TH-cam! Glad you're still working on this project. Hopefully you can resurface the flywheel and middle plate and simply buy 2 clutch plates and a throwout bearing and be on your way! Best of luck
SoCal308GTSiQV Thanks man! The clutch is all back installed and I have actually driven the bus a few times... just working on catching up posting the videos. You'll find out what happens in the next couple :)
***** I'm waiting, I'm waiting, I'm waiting :)
ThePaulv12 Yeah any updates on this project?
Good job man, alot of work for just 1 guy
Subbed from the link Tyler put up, Man its been a journey!
Dirty hands, Happy hands!
I just found and watched your videos, as I've been an armchair busnut forever......Seeing you do such heavy-duty work with minimal equipment in very cold weather has given me great inspiration to kickstart a project i've been procrastinating, a 69 chevy van.......I've got some ideas for an improved dolly design for you, or even a carry-along system of removing the engine cradle without a dolly.... Sent you a FB friend request
Yea! 858 is on its way!
Great job TJ
Hey love the videos mate love stuff like this i actually saw a scenicrouse in a service station in england other day couldn't believe my eyes i asked the bloke about it hes re powered it with a big cummins would love to work on a project like your or maybe a eagle cant wait for next video mate
Hi TJ, very informative video.I have an MCI MC5 and the clutch started to slip. I have a Spicer 8245 in mine. I had to get it adjusted and that fixed it for now. I've been meaning to get the clutch changed-as the adjuster is out of adjustment. Its a drop box and 8v71 configuration. Was meaning to take out the powertrain like you, but working as a engine design engineer takes it toll on your energy level. Since then I'm currently at a crosroads in my life, selling up and stuff, so I WILL be tackling this- may be by paying someone as I go full time RVing.
TJ hopefully you will continue to update this project. I would love to do what you are doing but life happened to me, maybe someday! Very nice bus!
Reminds me of my projects when I was a lot younger!
I love watching your videos. I'm interested in seeing what your plans are for the future. Seems like you took on a huge project. Upload some more videos I'm dying to see the bus move under it own power
This is awesome
Keep up the good work!...👍🏾❤️😁💪🏽
Great video man ..it takes a lot to focus on the task at hand and make a decent vid ! Look forward to more !!
OH Hell Yeah! Can't wait to see how it all went!
Open Roader I
Is that a Harbor Freight hoist? I bought the one ton model to pull the engine on my 1965 Ford Mustang. With the arm extended all the way, it would not reach the center of the engine; the balance point. Removed the front bumper. That got it closer but still about 5 inches short. Drilled the arm to extend it further. the makers probably would not approve but it got the job done. Was still stable. I was worried about that.
The bus only has a 4 speed? No two speed rear axle? The twin disk clutch sounds beefy.
I think you are doing a great job, those screamers are at times a hard to get into certain areas at best. Your fine invention or wherever you got the idea, it is great to work on the engine. I sure do like that set up.
A question on the anti-freeze , did you say you want to save as much as possible ? Maybe I missed something here ?
Fact, never reuse coolant if you are rebuilding or doing a crate engine, whatever as that is a death wish to a head gasket , among other parts of the engine. Not bad criticizing, just a friendly hint to help save many dollars along the way. .I enjoy the progress you are making. God Bless
One thing I have never understood about these buses. Why do they not have vertical shuters to face forward to help get air to the radiator when moving. I have had truckers tell me that they had to run their trucks really hard to get them hot enough to run efficiently since their rads are up front. They could be adjustable due to ambient temperature. Everything I have seen is that these can overheat easily.
These are fitted with an electirc solenoid switch for reverse but are otherwise your basic H-pattern 4 speed.:) (with double clutching required,natch! thumsb up)
Where has he gone and what happened to the bus?
Its been a while...
Any news?
Good, bad or otherwise?
PS after you get used to it you won't need to double clutch. In fact you won't use the clutch at all! Bill
Do you have a service manual for this thing?
What drives the radiator fan? Electric? Hydraulic? Thanks Bill
you can see the right angle drive powered by an accessory drive at 7:40
Brother. I worry about all of you guys like bus grease monkey..yourself and some others.I told the story.. my brother was in a pd4106 a gospel group he was in had bought from a WIDOW..the 06 fell &crushed her hubby when an AIRBAG BURST..So these things are always looking for a way to come back down...take care!.Don't want to see ANY of you hurt.
So what are you doing these days ???
I guess you got rid of the bus ?
All the best Sir.
bom trabalho , belissimo onibus.
If you want to determine the wear, you need to look at the clutch plate(s), and the pressure plate. You may need to get the plate(s) relined, and the pressure plate surface ground if you cannot find new parts. Also beware of asbestos. Mesothelioma is nothing to giggle about.
why are you not using air tools?
you have a lot of equipment.
No up date on the bus
Why does TH-cam keep indicating that you've put up a new video but then when I go look, no you haven't
So that's kind of annoying TH-cam.
Anyway what's up, it's been a while eh?
Yep! It has been a while.
Unsure why you keep getting notified. I have noticed that too in other subscriptions I have... I wonder if it is just an indicator of some sort of activity on that channel? Unsure though.
I should have some additional videos up in the next 2-3 weeks. Just busy with work and other personal commitments. Thanks for the encouragement!
Here's an 8-71 with a Jake for your viewing pleasure.
Why didn't you clean up that filthy thing?
I would have chucked it and get an HT-754 instead.
I''d keep the original non-sync double-clutch 4-speed manual m'self and 8v71.
Hey buddy I have a transmission that will fit in your bus.