Thank you, thank you, thank you. You saved me $1900. May you be blessed🙏🙏🙏 as you have blessed me... On a side note, I couldn't remove it from the steering column. With a side cutter, cut the top two corners from the plastic cover and slowly pried down on the plastic cover. Be careful when prying down; the circuit board faces the steering column. Don't stick a metal object and damage the board. Once the cover was removed, the procedure in the video was priceless
I am wondering if this is the issue I am having with my 2008 g37 coupe? Got 200k miles on it, and still runs good. I just installed a new car battery about 1 week ago and everything looks clean and solid and I drove it this morning no issues. But then when I went out to use it this afternoon, the little orange KEYFOB light is on the tach, and the START button just stays in the LOCK position. All the lights work fine, and the KEYFOB works the door locks no issues, just won't goto ACC or ON. Won't crank, and it had a new starter about 20k miles ago. Anyhow, changed the batteries in both KEYFOBS, nothing. If I insert the KEYFOB into the KEYFOB hole for when the batteries goes dead, at the KEYFOB hole it starts to blink amber on both sides of the KEYFOB and on the dash says to press the brake as if its recognizes it, but then goes back to turning on the KEYFOB light on the tachometer. I watched some videos and double checked the positive battery terminal fusable links, there are 5 of them, all look good. All looks clean, so I should be getting good battery, headlights are strong, interior lights good.
@@cameronarmijo4524 Yes! It was in fact that motor module. Banging on it with a hammer didn't fix it for me or even get it to start one time. I had to lower the steering column and remove the box. As soon as I touched the motorized locking pin that was sticking out of that box, it shot back into the box as if it was under a load and bound up. This is exactly what was the problem. I then put it right back on, and the car started right up. While the car is running right then, (THIS IS IMPORTANT) I then went and pulled out that 10 amp fuse for the Steering Lock Motor located on the hidden fuse box behind the car battery under the hood. So be sure and have the fuse box out and be prepared to do this BEFORE REMOVING THE LOCKING MOTOR from the column. All of this is hard to get too and tedious but it worked. Car has driven fine now for 3 weeks no issues, cranks up everytime and the fix is FREE except for 2 - 10mm x 16mm m6 replacement bolts you will put back in place of security bolts. Once you get the column down, you will need to take a Dremel rotary tool and a cut off wheel and I notched the 2 security bolts on top of the lock motor which have NO HEADS, they are bald. I slotted them like to use a flat head screwdriver but they are too tight. I then had to hit the right side of the slot using a long brass punch and hammer to loosen them and a stubby flathead to finish it. It wasn't hard, just tedious and tight to get to everything. Retract the pin, and put it back, start the car, and remove the fuse while its running in that order. Removing the fuse disabled that locking motor from ever engaging again so your steering wheel will stay permanently unlocked. There are 3 mechanical switches inside that motor that get switched once the motor is in the unlock position like in this video above and that unlocks the car steering wheel , tells the computer we are ready and lets it start. I did not have to take my lock motor apart because ithe cam gear rotated and unlocked as soon as I took it off the column but you might have to do whats in this video and take it apart and rotate the cam wheel and retract the pin by hand. When you put the motor back on, I was real sure to plug in 100% of everything back onto the column (loose, just hanging temporarily) like the airbag, and anything else. You don't want the car to throw a computer code on startup for air bags or whatever, because seeing lots of complaints about having to go back and erase the errors and needing a more advanced scanner to do it. Good luck!
@@stephensatt you’re a genius thank you so much my yellow light key wasn’t on. It was my key fob transponder chip that was broken so it wasn’t reading my key.
MORE FOLLOW UP: I never took the little lock motor apart and now I am paying the price. The car started doing it again even though that motor now has the fuse pulled. I suspect vibration has caused the CAM to be off just slightly and now it strands me again but now I can bang on it with a hammer and it starts. I have just now taken the lock motor out and will try and permanently click over that internal CAM and jam it somehow so it doesn't move. I am glad I installed 13mm bolts in place of the security bolts and didn't tighten them too much. I can reach above the column now and with a stubby wrench undo those bolts. So don't tighten them back to much when you install it, because you may very well be at it again like I am now in some weeks if it fails. Technically you don't even need to put it back on the column but could just wire tie it somewhere. There is NO sensors on it that look at the column position, just the lock pin that retracts, thats the only thing that contacts the column. When I re-install it, I am just putting back one bolt, and thats the one closest to the brake pedal thats easiest to get too. ------------------------------------- Ok, got that motor out and apart. Mine is different for sure than this video. It has 4 microswitches. 2 on the cam wheel and 2 on the plunger. So when the plunger is retracted it presses down those 2. The cam wheel presses on the other two and they are the metal type that has the little roller on the end that ride on a cam lobe. They do not have that little roller but just a ball on the end, but its the same thing. I tried depressing all 4 switches and the car lights up on the dash but won't crank over. Everything else comes on. So not sure what I need to do. One thing I noticed was the cam gear on mine, only presses one of the roller buttons at a time, not both. So its possible only one needs to be depressed. Still not sure, and car will not start.
Hi! As you explained in your video, small motor failure is causing the gear to get stuck in mid-position, thus preventing the activation of the dip switch. So, then how come some people succeed to start their car by simply tapping the lock box with a hammer? I do understand the steel lock will drop back in the box, but what about the dip switch? My understanding (by watching your video) is that the motor activates the gear which by spinning moves up or down the steel lock AND depresses the switches. By hitting the box with a hammer, I guess the steel lock falls back down with the help of gravity. But how does the gear get spinning in the correct position to activate the dip switch? About the fuse that needs to be removed. I presume the fuse is only for the motor, and not the motherboard? Am I correct? Thank you!
There are 2 screws facing the center console. They are breakaway bolts. I just put a latex glove on and twisted them off they were like hand tightened loose. I just sprayed a little bicycle lube in the part and I swear it fixed it. Also once you get it going you can just pull the fuse and you won’t have steering lock but it will never fail again lol. Haha I just saw the rest of the video and he explains that .
Great video. 2009 Nissan Murano remote unlocks and locks, dash lights on, missing key light, steering wheel not locked, no starter click but starter works, i am able to activate the starter from the relay but i get no test light from the connection “black” wire under it!? But I am hoping this will do it. I think the only reason mine failed or whatever it did is because i had a low charged battery maybe but i also detached the ECU, so i guess a combination of both, i screwed my self! Been such a bizzar scneario trying to figure out.
They make a "steering lock emulator" for your model I just found on Ebay, plug n play for $40. It replaces that lock module box everyone is having issues with. I am finding plenty of these for Nissan, but not Infiniti.
@@infinitibossauto type into Google "infiniti lock emulator uhs hardware" and its the first link, company website is UHS hardware and thats the one I bought. Think they are in Florida, and its the same as the overseas one. Little black box with a red light, 2007-2011 Nissan Infiniti Juke Qashqai Maxima Altima Murano - Steering Column Lock Emulator - Plug And Play. It works but my KEYFOB light stays lit on the dash all the time, and I don't know if thats from this box, but car runs fine otherwise. So I removed the mechanical steering lock box altogether and the emulator is now in place of it, so the wheel never locks anymore.
What is going Sir, man I have been doing so much troubleshooting with this steering lock. Just curious is there a way to bench test one? That you know of? I wanna experiement with getting one from the junkyard but i dont want to assume it works, just wandering if there is a way to tell that you know? Thanks
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Thank you, thank you, thank you. You saved me $1900. May you be blessed🙏🙏🙏 as you have blessed me... On a side note, I couldn't remove it from the steering column. With a side cutter, cut the top two corners from the plastic cover and slowly pried down on the plastic cover. Be careful when prying down; the circuit board faces the steering column. Don't stick a metal object and damage the board. Once the cover was removed, the procedure in the video was priceless
My thing is how do u even remove it from the steering column
Excellent. It works as you demonstrated
you just save me alot of money thank you it work
I am wondering if this is the issue I am having with my 2008 g37 coupe? Got 200k miles on it, and still runs good. I just installed a new car battery about 1 week ago and everything looks clean and solid and I drove it this morning no issues.
But then when I went out to use it this afternoon, the little orange KEYFOB light is on the tach, and the START button just stays in the LOCK position. All the lights work fine, and the KEYFOB works the door locks no issues, just won't goto ACC or ON. Won't crank, and it had a new starter about 20k miles ago. Anyhow, changed the batteries in both KEYFOBS, nothing. If I insert the KEYFOB into the KEYFOB hole for when the batteries goes dead, at the KEYFOB hole it starts to blink amber on both sides of the KEYFOB and on the dash says to press the brake as if its recognizes it, but then goes back to turning on the KEYFOB light on the tachometer.
I watched some videos and double checked the positive battery terminal fusable links, there are 5 of them, all look good. All looks clean, so I should be getting good battery, headlights are strong, interior lights good.
Same issues here wont pick up my key idk if my key messed up or anti theft u fix it bro??
@@cameronarmijo4524 Yes! It was in fact that motor module. Banging on it with a hammer didn't fix it for me or even get it to start one time. I had to lower the steering column and remove the box. As soon as I touched the motorized locking pin that was sticking out of that box, it shot back into the box as if it was under a load and bound up. This is exactly what was the problem. I then put it right back on, and the car started right up. While the car is running right then, (THIS IS IMPORTANT) I then went and pulled out that 10 amp fuse for the Steering Lock Motor located on the hidden fuse box behind the car battery under the hood. So be sure and have the fuse box out and be prepared to do this BEFORE REMOVING THE LOCKING MOTOR from the column. All of this is hard to get too and tedious but it worked.
Car has driven fine now for 3 weeks no issues, cranks up everytime and the fix is FREE except for 2 - 10mm x 16mm m6 replacement bolts you will put back in place of security bolts. Once you get the column down, you will need to take a Dremel rotary tool and a cut off wheel and I notched the 2 security bolts on top of the lock motor which have NO HEADS, they are bald. I slotted them like to use a flat head screwdriver but they are too tight. I then had to hit the right side of the slot using a long brass punch and hammer to loosen them and a stubby flathead to finish it. It wasn't hard, just tedious and tight to get to everything. Retract the pin, and put it back, start the car, and remove the fuse while its running in that order. Removing the fuse disabled that locking motor from ever engaging again so your steering wheel will stay permanently unlocked.
There are 3 mechanical switches inside that motor that get switched once the motor is in the unlock position like in this video above and that unlocks the car steering wheel , tells the computer we are ready and lets it start. I did not have to take my lock motor apart because ithe cam gear rotated and unlocked as soon as I took it off the column but you might have to do whats in this video and take it apart and rotate the cam wheel and retract the pin by hand. When you put the motor back on, I was real sure to plug in 100% of everything back onto the column (loose, just hanging temporarily) like the airbag, and anything else. You don't want the car to throw a computer code on startup for air bags or whatever, because seeing lots of complaints about having to go back and erase the errors and needing a more advanced scanner to do it. Good luck!
@@stephensatt you’re a genius thank you so much my yellow light key wasn’t on. It was my key fob transponder chip that was broken so it wasn’t reading my key.
MORE FOLLOW UP: I never took the little lock motor apart and now I am paying the price. The car started doing it again even though that motor now has the fuse pulled. I suspect vibration has caused the CAM to be off just slightly and now it strands me again but now I can bang on it with a hammer and it starts. I have just now taken the lock motor out and will try and permanently click over that internal CAM and jam it somehow so it doesn't move. I am glad I installed 13mm bolts in place of the security bolts and didn't tighten them too much. I can reach above the column now and with a stubby wrench undo those bolts. So don't tighten them back to much when you install it, because you may very well be at it again like I am now in some weeks if it fails. Technically you don't even need to put it back on the column but could just wire tie it somewhere. There is NO sensors on it that look at the column position, just the lock pin that retracts, thats the only thing that contacts the column. When I re-install it, I am just putting back one bolt, and thats the one closest to the brake pedal thats easiest to get too.
-------------------------------------
Ok, got that motor out and apart. Mine is different for sure than this video. It has 4 microswitches. 2 on the cam wheel and 2 on the plunger. So when the plunger is retracted it presses down those 2. The cam wheel presses on the other two and they are the metal type that has the little roller on the end that ride on a cam lobe. They do not have that little roller but just a ball on the end, but its the same thing. I tried depressing all 4 switches and the car lights up on the dash but won't crank over. Everything else comes on. So not sure what I need to do. One thing I noticed was the cam gear on mine, only presses one of the roller buttons at a time, not both. So its possible only one needs to be depressed. Still not sure, and car will not start.
@@stephensattwhere are you located ?
What about QX70, does it has a same device and same location as your vehicle?
Hi! As you explained in your video, small motor failure is causing the gear to get stuck in mid-position, thus preventing the activation of the dip switch. So, then how come some people succeed to start their car by simply tapping the lock box with a hammer? I do understand the steel lock will drop back in the box, but what about the dip switch?
My understanding (by watching your video) is that the motor activates the gear which by spinning moves up or down the steel lock AND depresses the switches. By hitting the box with a hammer, I guess the steel lock falls back down with the help of gravity. But how does the gear get spinning in the correct position to activate the dip switch?
About the fuse that needs to be removed. I presume the fuse is only for the motor, and not the motherboard? Am I correct?
Thank you!
How do you remove the two brake away bolts that hold the lock box onto the steering column?
How to remove it from a car
what if we put new motor in there ?
The vehicle doesn't start when the key fob is inside the cabin. I have to insert it in the dedicated slot.
I already diagnosed the car and found out that was the problem but I’m stuck on how to remove it
There are 2 screws facing the center console. They are breakaway bolts. I just put a latex glove on and twisted them off they were like hand tightened loose. I just sprayed a little bicycle lube in the part and I swear it fixed it. Also once you get it going you can just pull the fuse and you won’t have steering lock but it will never fail again lol. Haha I just saw the rest of the video and he explains that .
doing this right now, i had a small metal pin fall out and i cant seem to find where it goes....
Great video.
2009 Nissan Murano remote unlocks and locks, dash lights on, missing key light, steering wheel not locked, no starter click but starter works, i am able to activate the starter from the relay but i get no test light from the connection “black” wire under it!? But I am hoping this will do it.
I think the only reason mine failed or whatever it did is because i had a low charged battery maybe but i also detached the ECU, so i guess a combination of both, i screwed my self! Been such a bizzar scneario trying to figure out.
They make a "steering lock emulator" for your model I just found on Ebay, plug n play for $40. It replaces that lock module box everyone is having issues with. I am finding plenty of these for Nissan, but not Infiniti.
Whats the name for it@@stephensatt
@@infinitibossauto type into Google "infiniti lock emulator uhs hardware" and its the first link, company website is UHS hardware and thats the one I bought. Think they are in Florida, and its the same as the overseas one. Little black box with a red light, 2007-2011 Nissan Infiniti Juke Qashqai Maxima Altima Murano - Steering Column Lock Emulator - Plug And Play. It works but my KEYFOB light stays lit on the dash all the time, and I don't know if thats from this box, but car runs fine otherwise. So I removed the mechanical steering lock box altogether and the emulator is now in place of it, so the wheel never locks anymore.
What is going Sir, man I have been doing so much troubleshooting with this steering lock.
Just curious is there a way to bench test one? That you know of?
I wanna experiement with getting one from the junkyard but i dont want to assume it works, just wandering if there is a way to tell that you know?
Thanks
Damn good video!