Hopefully this little trick helps you out. Leave the powerful drills alone for this one! Oh and apparently I mistakenly said mm instead of cm somewhere in here 🤪
Hi there I need to make a new 2-way, 1-gang light switch into just a one-way switch. Well, actually it's a dimmer switch I'm trying to install. I don't do online shopping. It's too risky for me to use. I just use local shops. The trouble is that Screwfix don't sell 1-gang 1-way dimmer switches - with a 25 mm box depth. I wonder if you would make a video of this please? The only video I can find on TH-cam as been done by someone who lives in India. Thank you.
Hiya, love your videos and they have helped me in the past. As a blind fitter I wanted to return the favour with some alternative options. If it's a catnic or an RSJ lintel then you can just use a 2.5mm - 3mm drill bit. Then use a slightly thicker screw which will will screw directly in to the metal providing a much better fixing than any rawplug. Alternatively if it's a catnic lintel the easy drive screws will work in the same way, without you having to drill a pilot hole in the steel with a HSS drill bit. Finally the box bracket you are using will also have side holes. So the blind can be fixed to the side instead of above which will mean you won't have to drill through the lintel. I have found that when fitting wooden venetian blinds, this is a better fitting. This is because a venetian blind is pulled to lift the blind up when you clean your windows. That force is pulling down and away from the fixing, whereas a side fix has the benefit of using the force each side to hold it, so that you are not pulling against it.
Hey I almost gave up trying to get my blinds up until i watched this! Fab advice on the correct technique when drilling. It gave me the courage to give it a bash and thanks to you I managed to fit two blinds in no time at all 😊👍
The importance of good drills and slow speed with pressure cannot be overstated when drilling steel. Very easy to overheat and blunt the bit. Good tips. That curtain pole is a monster lol
If I could add my two penny worth, may I suggest you drill a pilot hole through the lintel at say 2 or 3 mm and then progressively increase the drill bit size to your (6 mm) requirement. Great video as ever and very topical for me given my daughter has an uncanny knack of "finding" lintels wherever I have to put up her roller blinds!!!!
Of course, each to their own. The pilot hole method I have never found to be faster in my experience. However if that works for you then that's great 👍. Thanks
A gem of an idea BC. I have used pilot drills from the 1960s for metal AND brick - it guarantees an easy and level and straight entry for the subsequent larger bits. Pilot bits are ESSENTIAL in wood for flat blade bits. So a pilot bit EVERY time (I buy dozens as they are cheaper than the bigger bits and dispose easily without regret when it loses its sharpness.) The DIY Guy is correct that such a procedure is slower but time is in abundance (hopefully) with us DIY-ers.
I disagree, That narrow a drill bit will break and then what? You can't move over, you need the holes where they are, but you now have a hardened steel bit in the way. I disagree with much in this video. If you use 3.9mm hss, then a #8 screw goes right in. 3.9mm won't break. Not sure why you need rawlplug in steel anyway. Besides, why drill up for Venetians? And, do you carry a trailer of all different 2x4s? This just isn't practical. I fit hundreds of blinds a week for over 20 years.
I've just finished putting one up .. also needed 4 holes in the centre for a support for these longer blinds. Was like a knife through butter using this method with metal peelings falling away & with the suggested drill bit. Before this it took me a whole day to do 2 small blinds using the normal method. I was drilling for hours. Today it took minutes. Thank you!!
I am 79, blind in one eye and I have just drilled 6 holes for 3 support brackets for heavy faux wood venetian blinds. I wish I had seen this video first, because I was so knackered at the end. I have another wide blind to do and after seeing your video I immediately purchased the clamp/spreader from Amazon. I also like the idea of Tek screws mentioned in the comments.
I had to fit blinds onto lintels. I didn't drill a hole. I used baypole screws (also called Tek screws). The screw drills it's own hole and cuts its thread in the steel as it goes in. Fantastic screws perfect for this
Wow. Every challenge that you spoke about in this video is exactly what we're going through at this very moment and we couldn't figure out how to get past it, but now we feel like we have an opportunity to move forward. Thank you. 😊
Hi, yup, I'm a hobby metal worker. The centre part of most drills for metal actually works by scraping, it needs a lot of pressure to get through the metal. What may help is to buy something called 'a four flute drill'. This has an extra grind that makes the drill cut right to the centre point. They wander less and cut better. Hope it helps.
All i do is get some step ladders to take me to the higher level. From that higher level, i usually find I can put more force, without an outstretched arm, i.e. from my waist/chest height, tuck myself into the inner window area and push upwards, it works for me anyway. Love your video's and i often check them out if i'm lost on my DIY projects.
This is an excellent example of leverage and the use of scrap material. I come across my first steel lintel hanging a blind for my father. The difference was the floor-to-lintel was about 6 feet. I used two bits of timber, one vertical and one on top horizontal. Pulling down on the horizontal timber pushing the drill up
Thanks for sharing, very useful video. I ran into the same issue, and nearly gave it. After watching this video I realised i was doing things wrong. I used a HSS drill bit, but had drill on the fastest speed, and when I realised I was not making much progress used hammer mode too. As you said slowest speed and with sustained pressure, I finally got through just holding drill after 30-40 secs.\ Thanks
I've been drilling through 15mm steel with a decent 3.5mm or 5mm hss bit depending what fixing I'm using no need to clamp anything just hold my drill up on the scissor lift. obviously took longer but way thicker. also was drilled a lot straighter. thays my trick. buy decent drill bits go full speed with cutting oil or Vaseline. works great saves messing around with a clamp.
Just a quick tip, 3.5 mm hss drill bit and 1 1/2”x8 screws is all you need, no need for the wood or the clamp (I fitted blinds for a living for many years) 👍
As a retired blind fitter I agree with you Jeff. Its all rosy unless you catch the edge of the lintel. For heavy blinds, I top and side fix ( brickwork can be dodgy on side wall in a top corner). 👍
As a lad who has just bought and is currently renovating his first house, your information and videos have been invaluable! So easy to watch and follow. I have some knowledge in DIY but your tips and tricks speed things up and save me thousands, all from the central heating flush to putting up blinds. 👍🏻 keep it up mate!
Good advice on drilling through steel. Just a bit surprised you didnt just screw the brackets in the sides of the window (rather than drilling upwards) as this would better support the weight of the blinds if you ever need to pull on the cord to raise them….
Yeah that would definitely be better, I guess this is more of an example for a mid supporting bracket, or where the bracket doesn't allow side mounting
When I did this job it was easier to drill into the tops of the walls rather than ends of the lintel. The large drill body gets in the way so I used a long drill bit with SDS machine so the screws were as near horizontal as possible. With plasterboard facings you need to push the plugs into the brick and use longe screws. If the house is timber framed or has plastic cavity closures you’ll have to rely on plasterboard fixings. I like the metal screw in type but the work best with a 6mm pilot hole. Use an ordinary metal drilling bit and clean out the flutes when done.
When you’ve got a half tiled window (in a kitchen for example) you have to mount the brackets from the top as they’re not made wide enough when you take into account the width of the tile and adhesive either side.
Great tip. U can do a similar thing for drilling metal at the bench using e.g. a steel pole or 4x2 a bit like a lever but with the drill at the fulcrum (pivot point) a bit like a nutcracker.
Thank you so much for this tip we were getting really frustrated with trying to hang our blind and we’re about to give up we thought we had wasted our money buying these blinds till I found your video it worked fantastically 😊 … thanks again you stopped us from getting a divorce! 😂
Neat trick, thanks for sharing. And once you have the hole through the lintel you don’t need special screws, just ordinary wood screws will do fine, but they must match the size of the hole you drilled, you can’t bodge over-sized screws in as you can with wood …
I know this is an old video but I've struggled with this many times and recently tried with Cobalt HSS drill bits and it chewed through the lintel on a low speed in less than 20 seconds with barely any pressure. With my old HSS drill bits, the same hole took me 15 minutes of sustained pressure to get through (didn't have the tool you used to push the drill up, my arms were killing haha)
This is much better than my "technique" that I've used in the past of getting the 6.3kg sds hammer out and making a mess of the wall (the drill is a bit difficult to control and usually ends up over-enlarging the hole in the plaster). Think I'll try this next time!!
Good idea if your drill bit is pants. But I use a Dewalt extreme hss bit with pilot hole starter and it goes through like butter in no time. Builder got me onto that bit after he drilled through an rsj easily with one 👍🏻
Glad I just saw this video, wife wants me to put up a new curtain rail after I have painted living room. Also seen other videos you have done. Very informative.
Now you show me that tip 😝 Did this job a few months back with some sh1te drill bits! It was tough going. Slow and steady with steel. I did tape some card to the wall to protect the paint from the drill’s chuck 😄
Use a branded name cordless impact driver with a Milwaukee Shock Wave drill bit. Done! Or use self drilling screws if the metal is 18 gauge or less without predrilling.
Such a good video, wish i had seen this before putting up all the blinds in our house. Lots of sweatin, effin and jeffin trying to drill through the lintels. Glad i have found your channel, keep up the great work
What you may want to consider is on top sits a cavity tray which when there moisture in the cavity it works it’s way down the tray and through the weep holes on the brickwork!…imagine the holes drilled will be near the back of the tray where water could gather. Just a thought
Brilliantly helpful video... wish I'd seen something like this years ago.. would have prevented all that lactic acid build up! Great channel full of great tips..
Great idea with the clamp, but can I add a few things/questions. If no center bracket is required, why not just use the side fixings into the wall, where there is no Lintel ? Also best to protect the wall, as you must have had to paint those scratches you put on the reveals ! Also you drill a 6mm hole, but you don't mention if you use wall plugs, which I presume you do. Surely you dont just drive screws, into the lintel ? When you drill the first hole, on the left, you don't mention, adjusting the clamp to keep the pressure on. Regards Steve
Sometimes you also hit the cavity section and have to use a plasterboard-type fixing. Then what about underneath a bay window when there doesnt seem like any fixings above the plasterboard.
You can face fix most blinds also using extension brackets off the window frame or side fix Venetians. 50mm Easy drive screw’s take 5 seconds through a catnip 👍
Thanks a lot for this extremely helpful video. I am a first timer DIYer so appreciate if you don't mind giving me some advices: (1) Is there any rules for screw length? For example, if the gap between the plasterboard and the metal lintel is 30mm, would a 35mm screw good enough to hold a curtain rail or pole? I think the longer the better but if the metal lintel is not think enough, a long screw with a long wall plug may not help? (2) Is there any particular screw type that works better? E.g. self-drilling / self-tapping.
Be careful when drilling through a steel lintel in case you drill through the cavity tray above..I always drill sideways into the reveal its much safer.
Hi I'm onto blind number 2! The first one was a nightmare. I used a lever system from another TH-cam video. I think I'm going to invest in a spreader and plant of wood! The problem I'm facing now is that the lintel has a divoted surface on the inside facing part to allow the plaster to stick. I seem to always get "lucky" and have to drill these. They're a pain as the drill bit whilst sharp Bosche ones get snagged and the drill cuts out. Do you have any advice on how to get past this?
What if it’s a concrete lintel with reinforced bars you hit the underside of and the brackets need to go exactly there??? What drill bit do you use for a start?
when using this method you should be aware that putting this amount of increased pressure on the inner workings of an electric drill i.e. bearings motor etc , you will decrease the overall life of your drill, another way is to step drill as in start with a smaller drill bit and increase to the size needed but always use some form of lubricant such as Rocol this will greatly increase the life of your drillbit
You are most likely correct, however I must say that the higher quality drills these days from some of the bigger brands really do stand up to some punishment
![[LIVE] MCHOICE & MINT AWARDS 2024 at TRUE ICON HALL, ICONSIAM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wMewUeT5nbY/mqdefault.jpg)
Hopefully this little trick helps you out. Leave the powerful drills alone for this one! Oh and apparently I mistakenly said mm instead of cm somewhere in here 🤪
Might be a stupid question.. but do you still have t use a wall plug or a specific screw type.. Cheers
Probably the m12 is more powerful than the dealt
Hi there
I need to make a new 2-way, 1-gang light switch into just a one-way switch.
Well, actually it's a dimmer switch I'm trying to install.
I don't do online shopping. It's too risky for me to use.
I just use local shops.
The trouble is that Screwfix don't sell 1-gang 1-way dimmer switches - with a 25 mm box depth.
I wonder if you would make a video of this please?
The only video I can find on TH-cam as been done by someone who lives in India.
Thank you.
Love that method 👍 your pronunciation of 'Milwarkee' and drilling a 'hurle' made me laugh 😁👏
Good tip.. though its 50 centimetres gap from peace scrap wood to top of window sill. Not 50 millimetres
Hiya, love your videos and they have helped me in the past. As a blind fitter I wanted to return the favour with some alternative options. If it's a catnic or an RSJ lintel then you can just use a 2.5mm - 3mm drill bit. Then use a slightly thicker screw which will will screw directly in to the metal providing a much better fixing than any rawplug. Alternatively if it's a catnic lintel the easy drive screws will work in the same way, without you having to drill a pilot hole in the steel with a HSS drill bit. Finally the box bracket you are using will also have side holes. So the blind can be fixed to the side instead of above which will mean you won't have to drill through the lintel. I have found that when fitting wooden venetian blinds, this is a better fitting. This is because a venetian blind is pulled to lift the blind up when you clean your windows. That force is pulling down and away from the fixing, whereas a side fix has the benefit of using the force each side to hold it, so that you are not pulling against it.
Sorry but i have to ask (not being rude) As a blind fitter how do you see where to put the screws?
@@Sly_Wolf_1 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Brilliant advice
@@Sly_Wolf_1 he must using some sort of guide Dawg.
@@Sly_Wolf_1 my guide dog tells me
Hey I almost gave up trying to get my blinds up until i watched this! Fab advice on the correct technique when drilling. It gave me the courage to give it a bash and thanks to you I managed to fit two blinds in no time at all 😊👍
The importance of good drills and slow speed with pressure cannot be overstated when drilling steel. Very easy to overheat and blunt the bit. Good tips. That curtain pole is a monster lol
Absolutely. It is haha 👍
Brill 👍 Simple jack set up, with no complicated jigs. TY.
If I could add my two penny worth, may I suggest you drill a pilot hole through the lintel at say 2 or 3 mm and then progressively increase the drill bit size to your (6 mm) requirement.
Great video as ever and very topical for me given my daughter has an uncanny knack of "finding" lintels wherever I have to put up her roller blinds!!!!
Of course, each to their own. The pilot hole method I have never found to be faster in my experience. However if that works for you then that's great 👍. Thanks
@@TheDIYGuy1 it’s definitely not quicker but will stop your bits from fucking up over time
A gem of an idea BC. I have used pilot drills from the 1960s for metal AND brick - it guarantees an easy and level and straight entry for the subsequent larger bits. Pilot bits are ESSENTIAL in wood for flat blade bits. So a pilot bit EVERY time (I buy dozens as they are cheaper than the bigger bits and dispose easily without regret when it loses its sharpness.)
The DIY Guy is correct that such a procedure is slower but time is in abundance (hopefully) with us DIY-ers.
Drills smaller than 3mm are easy to break. Good luck extracting the broken fragment. 6mm isn’t a big drill so just go through in one go.
I disagree, That narrow a drill bit will break and then what? You can't move over, you need the holes where they are, but you now have a hardened steel bit in the way. I disagree with much in this video. If you use 3.9mm hss, then a #8 screw goes right in. 3.9mm won't break. Not sure why you need rawlplug in steel anyway. Besides, why drill up for Venetians? And, do you carry a trailer of all different 2x4s? This just isn't practical. I fit hundreds of blinds a week for over 20 years.
I've just finished putting one up .. also needed 4 holes in the centre for a support for these longer blinds. Was like a knife through butter using this method with metal peelings falling away & with the suggested drill bit. Before this it took me a whole day to do 2 small blinds using the normal method. I was drilling for hours. Today it took minutes. Thank you!!
I am 79, blind in one eye and I have just drilled 6 holes for 3 support brackets for heavy faux wood venetian blinds. I wish I had seen this video first, because I was so knackered at the end. I have another wide blind to do and after seeing your video I immediately purchased the clamp/spreader from Amazon. I also like the idea of Tek screws mentioned in the comments.
I had to fit blinds onto lintels. I didn't drill a hole. I used baypole screws (also called Tek screws). The screw drills it's own hole and cuts its thread in the steel as it goes in. Fantastic screws perfect for this
Good tip 👍
Yep agreed, still great tip if you don't have Tek screws.
Wow. Every challenge that you spoke about in this video is exactly what we're going through at this very moment and we couldn't figure out how to get past it, but now we feel like we have an opportunity to move forward. Thank you. 😊
We tried to do this, but we didn't buy the right drill bits so we failed horribly. 😢😮
@@HeartSoulLeakeso.. what did you do next?
I've just finished 3 hours battle with IKEA blinds. Already gave then I foud your video... MASSIVE THANKS!!!!
Haha your welcome
Hi, yup, I'm a hobby metal worker. The centre part of most drills for metal actually works by scraping, it needs a lot of pressure to get through the metal. What may help is to buy something called 'a four flute drill'. This has an extra grind that makes the drill cut right to the centre point. They wander less and cut better. Hope it helps.
All i do is get some step ladders to take me to the higher level. From that higher level, i usually find I can put more force, without an outstretched arm, i.e. from my waist/chest height, tuck myself into the inner window area and push upwards, it works for me anyway. Love your video's and i often check them out if i'm lost on my DIY projects.
Thanks for the info. Learned some bar clamps come with a reversible foot, a tidbit I never knew. Carry on, and be well.
Just fitted my vertical door blinds as you demonstrated, using the drill bit you recommended. It worked brilliantly. THANK YOU.
Glad it helped!
that is the best vertical drill hack ever. You old son are a booody genius!!
This is an excellent example of leverage and the use of scrap material. I come across my first steel lintel hanging a blind for my father. The difference was the floor-to-lintel was about 6 feet. I used two bits of timber, one vertical and one on top horizontal. Pulling down on the horizontal timber pushing the drill up
Great way of doing it!
Thanks for sharing, very useful video.
I ran into the same issue, and nearly gave it.
After watching this video I realised i was doing things wrong.
I used a HSS drill bit, but had drill on the fastest speed, and when I realised I was not making much progress used hammer mode too.
As you said slowest speed and with sustained pressure, I finally got through just holding drill after 30-40 secs.\
Thanks
Nice work. I still remember the red hot drill bit and the horrible smell from my first steel lintel encounter
I need to try this method because the last time i had to drill through a steel lintel i used 3 drill bits for each bracket. great video.
Haha it happens. But now you know 😁
Decent drill bits is the key as found out the hard way -
@@davyarthurs What drill bits do you use please.
Speed is the enemy. Glad I saw this before installing the blinds! Thank you
Glad to help
Great idea I use self tappers as well
👍
I've been drilling through 15mm steel with a decent 3.5mm or 5mm hss bit depending what fixing I'm using no need to clamp anything just hold my drill up on the scissor lift. obviously took longer but way thicker. also was drilled a lot straighter. thays my trick. buy decent drill bits go full speed with cutting oil or Vaseline. works great saves messing around with a clamp.
Thanks for this. Can't believe how much time and pain it has saved me.
Glad it helped!
I invested in carbide drill bits a while back and they would chew through that in about 15 seconds of upward pressure. They last for ever too
As a DIY numpty this was a great tip and it worked! Downside is, I now have to fit more blinds 😁
Excellent!
You can also buy some self tapping hex head screws that will drill into the steel easily if the screw heads are not going to be exposed
Dude, were was this video 2.5 years ago when I installed my blinds! Lol
Great video.
Oh I just bought the correct drill bits - What a relief.
👍
Been drilling and tapping them for years... M4 does the Job....
Just a quick tip, 3.5 mm hss drill bit and
1 1/2”x8 screws is all you need, no need for the wood or the clamp (I fitted blinds for a living for many years) 👍
As a retired blind fitter I agree with you Jeff. Its all rosy unless you catch the edge of the lintel. For heavy blinds, I top and side fix ( brickwork can be dodgy on side wall in a top corner). 👍
Great idea...well done.
Slow and steady, some cooling fluid on the bit helps. Surprising how many feel they need a powerful drill and to go at it like a jack hammer!
👍 thanks for sharing
As a lad who has just bought and is currently renovating his first house, your information and videos have been invaluable! So easy to watch and follow. I have some knowledge in DIY but your tips and tricks speed things up and save me thousands, all from the central heating flush to putting up blinds. 👍🏻 keep it up mate!
Great to hear! Thanks
Good advice on drilling through steel. Just a bit surprised you didnt just screw the brackets in the sides of the window (rather than drilling upwards) as this would better support the weight of the blinds if you ever need to pull on the cord to raise them….
Yeah that would definitely be better, I guess this is more of an example for a mid supporting bracket, or where the bracket doesn't allow side mounting
When I did this job it was easier to drill into the tops of the walls rather than ends of the lintel. The large drill body gets in the way so I used a long drill bit with SDS machine so the screws were as near horizontal as possible. With plasterboard facings you need to push the plugs into the brick and use longe screws.
If the house is timber framed or has plastic cavity closures you’ll have to rely on plasterboard fixings. I like the metal screw in type but the work best with a 6mm pilot hole. Use an ordinary metal drilling bit and clean out the flutes when done.
When you’ve got a half tiled window (in a kitchen for example) you have to mount the brackets from the top as they’re not made wide enough when you take into account the width of the tile and adhesive either side.
Great tip.
U can do a similar thing for drilling metal at the bench using e.g. a steel pole or 4x2 a bit like a lever but with the drill at the fulcrum (pivot point) a bit like a nutcracker.
Thank you so much for this tip we were getting really frustrated with trying to hang our blind and we’re about to give up we thought we had wasted our money buying these blinds till I found your video it worked fantastically 😊 … thanks again you stopped us from getting a divorce! 😂
Neat trick, thanks for sharing. And once you have the hole through the lintel you don’t need special screws, just ordinary wood screws will do fine, but they must match the size of the hole you drilled, you can’t bodge over-sized screws in as you can with wood …
👍 your welcome
Do you not use a wall plug?
I know this is an old video but I've struggled with this many times and recently tried with Cobalt HSS drill bits and it chewed through the lintel on a low speed in less than 20 seconds with barely any pressure. With my old HSS drill bits, the same hole took me 15 minutes of sustained pressure to get through (didn't have the tool you used to push the drill up, my arms were killing haha)
Personally I cut the Rawlplug down to the correct length and then pump some neoprene adhesive into the hole,wait a couple of hours..job done!!
Cheers mate, I gave up when I tried a while back now I have net curtains lol but I'll give this technique a shot.
Do it! 😀
This is much better than my "technique" that I've used in the past of getting the 6.3kg sds hammer out and making a mess of the wall (the drill is a bit difficult to control and usually ends up over-enlarging the hole in the plaster). Think I'll try this next time!!
Great stuff 🙂
Good idea if your drill bit is pants. But I use a Dewalt extreme hss bit with pilot hole starter and it goes through like butter in no time. Builder got me onto that bit after he drilled through an rsj easily with one 👍🏻
Hi been installing blinds for 25 years. Lintel....1/8 drill bit, 6 gauge 1/4 self tapper screw. A lot easier and stronger.
Glad I just saw this video, wife wants me to put up a new curtain rail after I have painted living room. Also seen other videos you have done. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Just go through the side reveal Fuck all that bollocks 🤣🤣
I fit shutters for a living. Self cutting screws usually do the trick, just go half speed and push hard an it will go through in seconds.
Just use self tapping screws work like magic @the DIY guy
Great video. All my windows have metal lintels which is a pain but at least it's doable. Hard, but doable. 😊
You can do it!
Awesome video. Is there a similar hack for when you need to drill horizontally?
Now you show me that tip 😝 Did this job a few months back with some sh1te drill bits! It was tough going. Slow and steady with steel. I did tape some card to the wall to protect the paint from the drill’s chuck 😄
Yeah I probably should of done that 🙂, I did have a little paint to touch up!
Use a branded name cordless impact driver with a Milwaukee Shock Wave drill bit.
Done!
Or use self drilling screws if the metal is 18 gauge or less without predrilling.
Such a good video, wish i had seen this before putting up all the blinds in our house. Lots of sweatin, effin and jeffin trying to drill through the lintels. Glad i have found your channel, keep up the great work
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Yay!!!! ❤
Or can you use a batten stick up with no nails and put your blinds up on it?
Straight off the bat I have had some great ideas from seeing the idea you used here, not just for lintels but a lot more applications, thanks
What you may want to consider is on top sits a cavity tray which when there moisture in the cavity it works it’s way down the tray and through the weep holes on the brickwork!…imagine the holes drilled will be near the back of the tray where water could gather.
Just a thought
Thanks for this, do you have tips for directly in the wall please? I’ve stumbled on this and just filled the holes back 🤦♀️
Brilliantly helpful video... wish I'd seen something like this years ago.. would have prevented all that lactic acid build up! Great channel full of great tips..
Thanks a lot 😁
Excellent technique thanks very much, i will go out and buy a rough neck clamp like yours. Thanks for the video
Glad it was helpful!
Great idea with the clamp, but can I add a few things/questions.
If no center bracket is required, why not just use the side fixings into the wall, where there is no Lintel ?
Also best to protect the wall, as you must have had to paint those scratches you put on the reveals !
Also you drill a 6mm hole, but you don't mention if you use wall plugs, which I presume you do. Surely you dont just drive screws, into the lintel ?
When you drill the first hole, on the left, you don't mention, adjusting the clamp to keep the pressure on.
Regards Steve
Milwaukee thunderwebs are brilliant bits! Money well spent 👍🏻
Totally agree
Sometimes you also hit the cavity section and have to use a plasterboard-type fixing. Then what about underneath a bay window when there doesnt seem like any fixings above the plasterboard.
You can face fix most blinds also using extension brackets off the window frame or side fix Venetians. 50mm Easy drive screw’s take 5 seconds through a catnip 👍
Super tip..drill as deep as you can..cut plastic rawl pug to size..Araldite glue it in..screw in whilst glue is wet.. bingo.Done plenty like this..
Magnetic brackets also work.
What’s the best fixings to hang a curtain track or blind from the lintel? Obviously covered with plaster board?
So simple but a phenomenal skill to have 👏👏👏
👍
Great little trick...wish I'd seen this after before fitting 7 blinds! Subscribed anyway for future tips!
Thanks for the sub!
Love your videos keep up the good work😊
A really useful video. Thanks. It's saved me a lot of grief. I assume you meant 50cm rather than 50mm.
Really useful information 😃 cheers will definitely be using this
Method for new blinds...👌
My pleasure 😊
Very clever idea, one for the locker later on thank you
No problem 👍
Thanks a lot for this extremely helpful video. I am a first timer DIYer so appreciate if you don't mind giving me some advices: (1) Is there any rules for screw length? For example, if the gap between the plasterboard and the metal lintel is 30mm, would a 35mm screw good enough to hold a curtain rail or pole? I think the longer the better but if the metal lintel is not think enough, a long screw with a long wall plug may not help? (2) Is there any particular screw type that works better? E.g. self-drilling / self-tapping.
I thought I was a weakling for my arms dropping off doing this. That little clamp rig is genius!
😂 give it a go!
Worked perfectly, thank you mate
No problem 👍
Helpful tips. Thank u very much !
I had simular problem, replaced my drill bit with a brand new good quality multi use and it went straight though no drama
👍
I usually drill a 3mm hole then use a long self tapping tek screw . Beats drilling a 6mm hole for a rawlplug.
Whatever works best for you 👍
Very Useful, thanks for sharing!
I just brought some carbide tipped bits, goes through lintels like hot knife through butter.
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thanks Great review , and a good tip
What type of wall plug did you use for the screw in the metal lintel?
As theres a gap between wall and metal lintel. So whats holding the screw?
Very good. Thank you much.
Brilliant idea well worth a sub
Thanks for the sub!
Helped me sooooooo much. Thanks buddy.
Thank you!
Be careful when drilling through a steel lintel in case you drill through the cavity tray above..I always drill sideways into the reveal its much safer.
Brilliant vid!
I'd also consider safety specs, especially with possibility of swarf in eyes...
Cavity tray would go over the front of the lintel and exit on the outside so this wouldn't happen
Cheers mate, seems like not utstustaining pressure was my problem!
But seriously, great advice 😁
No worries!
I epoxy the brackets in place, then plug into the reveals, IF it's only a blind 😁
This guy he a genius
Thanks
This is a great tip, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
cutting thru the reinforced metal in the concrete, will it weaken the structure?
What a great tip! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi I'm onto blind number 2! The first one was a nightmare. I used a lever system from another TH-cam video. I think I'm going to invest in a spreader and plant of wood! The problem I'm facing now is that the lintel has a divoted surface on the inside facing part to allow the plaster to stick.
I seem to always get "lucky" and have to drill these. They're a pain as the drill bit whilst sharp Bosche ones get snagged and the drill cuts out. Do you have any advice on how to get past this?
3mm drill bit, #6 1" screw, or just wall plug fix it to the sides
I just push the SDS through it works ok for me.
you know you can actually mount those brackets to the sides instead of the top that is why there are holes there so you have the option
Christmas list next year is some lintels and some blinds so I can do this!
😆 I always wait for your comment G man lol
What if it’s a concrete lintel with reinforced bars you hit the underside of and the brackets need to go exactly there??? What drill bit do you use for a start?
Easy just use a sharp t/c tipped drill bit
when using this method you should be aware that putting this amount of increased pressure on the inner workings of an electric drill i.e. bearings motor etc , you will decrease the overall life of your drill, another way is to step drill as in start with a smaller drill bit and increase to the size needed but always use some form of lubricant such as Rocol this will greatly increase the life of your drillbit
You are most likely correct, however I must say that the higher quality drills these days from some of the bigger brands really do stand up to some punishment