That is the best exhaust manifold coating product, PERIOD. Your prep process is a bit overkill, but certainly can't hurt anything. Using foam brushes prevents brush marks.
Putting the manifolds in a shop oven at 400 degrees for an hour gets rid of impurities too. You can also bake the manifolds to help cure the paint. Shop stove same as kitchen stove but NOT used for food.
On to the Fried Green Tomato. I just acquired a 1976 Ranchero, but there does seem to be much aftermarket support for 1972-1976 mid-sized Blue Ovals. I'm specifically looking for interior and electrical parts. Any suggestions?
I have used several "high temp" aerosols by the big name rattle cans (not house brand) on my headers. Every one burns, tarnishes or otherwise makes the header look just marginally better than it did. Now I understand that headers will experience higher localized heating due to their thinner material, but I'm not sure what temperature they are really seeing. Is this product making any high temp claims? Have you found a paint for header application?
have contemplated a set of these manifolds with to use with the gt40p heads if swapped onto the 289 in the 65 Fairlane. The reason? It's those or a set of FPA headers. Not even sure that Dougs offers a set of headers for that application.
I just put some on my reproduction HiPo headers last week. It went on easily and looks great, but I have no idea how well it will hold up. Took maybe 5 to 7% of the small tub, so there's a bunch left over for touch-up or future applications.
High performance ford 289 HP manifolds "WILL" melt your stock rubber motor mounts! so you will need solid engine mounts! That is why the hipo motor mounts were used in Mustangs and Fairlanes to move the rubber components away from the heat. Also the bolts are specific to the hipo and the motormount frame mounts are specific to the hipo. Shelby used a longer power steering ram mount for clearance on the 67-72 Shelbys. Never had power stering on 65-66 Shelby. You may need to "manufacture" a motor mount to clear the hipo manifolds. Shelby and Ford eventually went to the 1966 standard motor mount to solve the engine mount melting problem of the hipo manifolds.
I use a spray graphite called “slip plate”. Because it’s graphite and not paint, it doesn’t burn off. Eventually it might get thin, but you can spray more in a rag and wipe it back on. The downside is it’ll rub off on your arms.
It looks like someone used that paint can for batting practice 😂 there's no way to not wear POR 15 regardless of what you do. Thanks for another great video.
POR15 IS THE BOMB 💣
Doug’s Tri Y fit flawlessly on the 64/65 ranchero. Plenty of clearance everywhere
I just refinished my manifolds from my 1969 F100 302 they turned out great. I wish I could show you the pictures. Thanks for your help and the video
You are very welcome
Used POR15 on my 68 Mustang redoing it underneath and inside floor pans ! Looked Great !👍
Oven cleaner works a treat as well. Spray them, bag them, set them in the sun. Rinse, dry, paint.
Honestly, their degreaser is fantastic. I've used that in a ton of other stuff since wrapping up my POR-15 preventative coating projects.
That is the best exhaust manifold coating product, PERIOD.
Your prep process is a bit overkill, but certainly can't hurt anything.
Using foam brushes prevents brush marks.
How does this stuff compare to the Jet Hot coating you guys put on the manifold in the Torino a few years ago?
Putting the manifolds in a shop oven at 400 degrees for an hour gets rid of impurities too. You can also bake the manifolds to help cure the paint. Shop stove same as kitchen stove but NOT used for food.
Jeff, would it be possible or easier to put that product in a spray bottle and spray it on the manifold for cleaning it?
On to the Fried Green Tomato. I just acquired a 1976 Ranchero, but there does seem to be much aftermarket support for 1972-1976 mid-sized Blue Ovals. I'm specifically looking for interior and electrical parts. Any suggestions?
I used the Eastwood. It hasn't held up very well but I'm not sure anything really does.
Eastwood sucks. I know this from personal experience. POR 15 blows it away. It holds up if your surface is clean before application.
I have used several "high temp" aerosols by the big name rattle cans (not house brand) on my headers. Every one burns, tarnishes or otherwise makes the header look just marginally better than it did. Now I understand that headers will experience higher localized heating due to their thinner material, but I'm not sure what temperature they are really seeing. Is this product making any high temp claims? Have you found a paint for header application?
It is the best of what we have found. We'll see how it fairs.
I don't know what was used but on our 65 mustang build the stock manifolds were powder coated to look like used.
have contemplated a set of these manifolds with to use with the gt40p heads if swapped onto the 289 in the 65 Fairlane. The reason? It's those or a set of FPA headers. Not even sure that Dougs offers a set of headers for that application.
Have you ever tried Calyx manifold dressing?
I just put some on my reproduction HiPo headers last week. It went on easily and looks great, but I have no idea how well it will hold up. Took maybe 5 to 7% of the small tub, so there's a bunch left over for touch-up or future applications.
@@bns70 From what I've seen the Calyx is supposed to be easily reapplied when necessary. Redoing paint not so much.
@@kennethstaszak9990 Cool. The instructions seemed to imply that, and there certainly is a lot left over.
High performance ford 289 HP manifolds "WILL" melt your stock rubber motor mounts! so you will need solid engine mounts! That is why the hipo motor mounts were used in Mustangs and Fairlanes to move the rubber components away from the heat. Also the bolts are specific to the hipo and the motormount frame mounts are specific to the hipo.
Shelby used a longer power steering ram mount for clearance on the 67-72 Shelbys. Never had power stering on 65-66 Shelby. You may need to "manufacture" a motor mount to clear the hipo manifolds. Shelby and Ford eventually went to the 1966 standard motor mount to solve the engine mount melting problem of the hipo manifolds.
That is pure B.S.
If you think POR-15 is hard to get off. Try that with some Henry's Roofing tar. Don't ask me how I know about the Henry's.
I use a spray graphite called “slip plate”. Because it’s graphite and not paint, it doesn’t burn off. Eventually it might get thin, but you can spray more in a rag and wipe it back on. The downside is it’ll rub off on your arms.
It looks like someone used that paint can for batting practice 😂 there's no way to not wear POR 15 regardless of what you do. Thanks for another great video.
No safely glasses/ face shield? 🤔
"...can't get it off." Will Cam now eat fried chicken one-handed? 😆
et76039 I'm gonna go with no.
Call me lazy-I like to use brake clean and spray it off then wipe it dry.
That's all that it really necessary for new or blasted parts.
Brake Kleen does not leave residue either. It is my go to for heads, manifolds, etc.
what about the 800 pound gorilla in the room, brake parts cleaner?
Shill infomercial POR is Nowhere near as good as claimed.
Don't believe it? Pay their over price and find out for yourself.