andrew put the vargas car on the hoist and adjust the rods on the wastegates to put more pressure on them to see if you get more boost if it does then get a wastegate repair kits cheaper than new turbos. have you done a smoke test on the charge pipe you might have a leak where the charge pipes merge 1 turbo boosts and 1 leaks. cheers glenn
Havent done a pressurised boost test. But i think the next step will be back on the lift like you said, check the wastegates are actually seating and then for leaks un the charge pipe.
Think you guys would benefit from a boost pressure test kit. I have one and it's just bungs you place in to cap the system either end and then use a compressor to fill the system and then search for leaks. Works even better with smoke inside the system as you can see it poor out anywhere in the intake system between the caps.
hey boys! i had a problem with my stock outlets, the silicon joiner had broken and when i would come on boost it wouldnt be full boost until 4000rpm and every time i let off the peddle regardless if i h ave a BOV/diverters or nothing at all i would always hear a "psh" noise from the drivers side, turns out i was boost leaking HARD. go ahead and scope out that turbo outlet silicon joiner that connects the aluminum outlets, i went to VTT rhd outlets after this. hope that helps!
@@ZeroTo60Tube definitely sounds like the problem brother! hopefully i see a video on this from you guys soon (im crossing my fingers) and that was the problem!
My Subaru might be different, but when i had that happen with my oil cap it was a ringland failure, I also had oil coming out my exhaust, and misfire, etc.
for the 17t car why don't you disconnect the air lines to waste gates and go for a drive and see if you get more than 15psi? just get off the throttle quick if it does get more than your target boost. doing the above would rule out leaking wastegates.
Pull the downpipes and hook up a manual vacuum pump to the vacuum line and put 7 inches of vacuum on each actuator and then see if you can wiggle the wastegates. Could be a wastegate adjustment but most likely wastegate isn't closing all the way.
That car looks so fun. Orly - Tq limit 2048 disabled? Since its technically a manual. If they boost over target, even for a split second it will close the throttle too. Check the wgdc values on the vargas car, if they are stupid high or different from each other.
Wow guys, the BC DS series is the best choice for this car! Incredible car response! I think it's a small boost leak. Maybe the wastegates are not closing at low boost. The actuators on the turbos can be worn out..... Dutch regards, Nico.
I've had your exact problem on several cars. I just fixed mine the other day after weeks of diagnostic. It had the exact opposite problem. Wouldn't hold boost at high rpm. Turns out I had a leaking manifold.
Remove the downpipes and adjust the wastegate arms, make sure they close at the OEM spec of 5.91inHg using a vacuum gauge directly connected to the wastegate actuators. Solved my issue.
Share the log - WGDC is over 80%? Measure vacuum - put in a Y and measure in the cabin while driveing and under WOT Kill the exhaust vacuum line - put a screw in the line or block off the litle nipple on the big vacuum hose (it is the golf tee mod but you not risk vacuum leak) Put a gopro and a light in the engine bay - see what does the diverters pressure test the pipes - maybe the IC leaking or the connections test the WGs - buy a vacuum tester and manually close the WGs, with 6inHg the WGs shoud be closed maybe the exhaust not free flowing? broken/cracked vacuum canisters? easy test: start the car, then turn off, wait 2 minutes, disconnect a vacuum line and if it does not hold vacuum.....
That was the issue I had for the longest time...was dead turbos unfortunately. VTT unfortunately seem to have an issue with failing turbos...they will never admit it though
As others have suggested, I see it could be either wastegate issue, partly closing or leak somewhere after turbos. Pulling downpipes out would reveal if it's the first. Pressure / smoke test for the leak. Someone was guessing if it could be tune related. That can be ruled out by reading WGDC bank 1 (%) and 2. If they are not showing above 92% values, it could be simply tune to prevent too big torque values on low rpm, to prevent rods bending. Tony from Vargas has commented that they have seen bent rods already around 700NM and commented that it's pretty common issue caused by upgraded twins. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Worth checking MHD logs for that value
WGDC bank 1&2 (%) translate to electric signal demanding for vacuum. That is sent to boost solenoids that then control the vacuum to actuators and eventually the wastegates. I assume you've also checked the vacuum line after the boost solenoids as they are hard to inspect unlike the other lines that can been visually inspected
What are the wastegates doing? If they’re 100% at wot and your turbo is only delivering 15psi against a target of 20 then that would suggest they’re kaput right or you have a leak somewhere.
If it doesn't misfire all the time it's not internal damage. Is it possible the valve cover (I think y'all call it a rocker cover) internal PCV is cracked or blocked? The valve cover has a complete internal PCV system that go from the intake ports on the cylinder (little tiny holes) through the top of the valve cover. If there is anything wrong with the valve cover PCV your BOV won't work properly, and you will have to much crank case pressure so I'm wondering if you rear main seal blew. Also if you read my previous comment you will see me talking about high side pressure getting below 1500.
I don’t think it’s pcv smoke it only seems to do it under hard acceleration from slower speeds. The only other time I have seen it is during a trans brake skid 😉
Maybe it has the wastegate rattle fix on mhd. I'm sure it has a custom tune but you could try flashing an mhd map and see if the wastegates behave the same.
@@ZeroTo60Tube you can enable "rattle fix" on mhd, then u got that big boost lag u have there too - thats what he wanted to say. maybe doublecheck that it is not enabled. also: boost solenoids fucked up made mine lag a bit too dont know why
Looking forward to some work on a. Normal car 😂. A thought when you swopped to your 17t turbos what happened to the original ones to try in the non boosting car ? On a different note have you guys ever tried changing the 4 cylinder dash cluster to the 6 cylinder dash cluster.
We actually don’t like the overdrive kits. They are fine for people chasing smaller power levels. But if you have a N54 why would you do that haha. If you wanna make reliable big power on any direct injection engine it’s port injection all the way.
@@ZeroTo60Tube would it be interesting to find out what power they can reach with e85 and direct injection only, if it’s not that far off power wise to a port injection kit, cheaper than port injection and retains all dme safety, another option for n54 owners chasing more power
@@jasons4745 I personally dont see any benefit in regards to safety by sticking to DI only. The only thing the DME protects itself from is misfires. The DME will lean out to destruction and keep firing, not too bad at the stock 8 psi, but at 25psi things melt pretty quickly. There is no safety in regards to lean conditions with dme only. Since about 2016 MHD has had a safety coil cut option for cars running PI so if the DME activates its misfire safety it shuts the coil off as well as the DI injector, so no issues with PI like there was in the very early days. A smarter PI controller, like a JB4, microsquirt or Haltech can be setup to pull boost if the car is lean, they monitor load on the port injectors and pull boost if there is an issue with a port injector. Port injection is very simple its the most common type of fuel injection out there. You legit can not get a more tried and test fuelling solution. Every powerful DI car on the planet runs port injection on top of DI. Lambos and R8s come with Di and PI from the factory because even with all of the tech VW/Audi have, they can't make a OEM reliable 600 engine HP with only 10 direct injectors. I can't really understand why the N54 world thinks sticking to DI only is a good thing. In regards to your questions of DI only, whether its twin HPFP from VTT or the Helix 4x overdrive the stock index 12 injectors when they have decent pressure will pretty safely make 600whp on an ethanol mix, maybe a smidge less on full e85. The cars that run DI only and make 800whp seem to go through index 12 injectors very frequently which is just madness considering what they cost. There is a number of well documented issues with the overdrive kits and i have watched a lot of people go from PI to the overdrive and then 6 months later back to PI. I do know in the early days a few people had issues with the injectors supplied with the port injection kits which left a bad taste in a lot of peoples mouths ( a well known tuner is one of these people, however i dont think he fully understands why he had an issue). I personally think a lot of that was caused by the kits being supplied with cheap injectors designed to run at 40-45psi (normal cars like an LS) not the 60-80psi the N54 LPFP system runs at. A well setup port injected N54 will be safer than a DI only one as it will pull boost if the motor goes lean. Even if that lean condition, is from a direct injector issue. A decent port injection setup takes the strain off the factory DI system, makes that more reliable and then adds safeties while easily being capable of making 1000+whp. On the same note if you are only chasing 500whp a 3x helix with the bracket will be pretty safe. There is a lot of market hype and internet opinions on this however. But all the real cars, who actually make power and go fast run PI.
Good luck with it man. A pi kit with good quality injectors will last you years of mods and upgrades. If you are planing on going over 650whp make sure you get 750 or 1000cc injectors off the bat.
@@tighematthew Man, really sorry about your car. Looks like you'll be able to salvage the go fast bits at least have a spare motor to maybe build up on the side? Hopefully you find something awesome to replace it with soon.
TRW makes the BMW oem arms. THey just grind off the M3 logos. Add the rear arms also to reduce flex under power and aftermarket adjustable toe arm like the Manzo and ECS lower arm to really tighten up your suspension
@@cupompa Hey George, I dont have any experience with Megan Parts on this platform. They are adjustable. I have full M3 arms, fixed Dinan CC plates, Koni Yellows, rear subframe bushing inserts from Whiteline, rear M3 arms, Manzo adjustable rear toe arm and ECS lower arm. Handles amazing. Did the same setup on a 06 330i also.
@@mjbobbitt3592 Awesome. Thanks for the insight, I'm looking to OEM+ upgrade my stock suspension soon since I'm almost at 95k miles on a 08 335i. Front + Rear TRW/M3 arms for sure are on my list via fcpeuro's 11 piece kit. Have 4 new stock shocks/struts from previous owner at 80k miles. Might buy Revshift's aluminum rear subframe bushings + rear trialing arms. I love the options available!
@@cupompa sounds like a good plan. the dinan front CC plates are a must. dialed in the front for better grip and more neutral steering feel after the M3 front arms. Follow their (dinan) instructions on the M3 alignment specs . I had issues just on a stage 1 tune with the rear arms flexing, so the M3 arms and the Manzo toe arms solved that. went Manzo as they were harder than stock rubber bushings and did not add more NVH
A very laggy turbo like that is a wastegate issue, and if you're running those turbo's I wouldn't replace them, just get some aftermarket turbo smart waste gate actuators. Should only be like 300 for both of them.
Second thing is, you can always double check the adjustment of the actuator rod, some are adjustable, and maybe they weren't set up correctly and needs to be adjusted correctly, and thats free :P
Idk why my comment keeps disappearing. It's a boost leak. You can get everything you need for a pressure test at home depot for just a couple dollars. I tried sharing a link that shows how but I think that's why it's disappearing.
I have the same issue (just picked up the car not long ago), have done a smoke test and it’s all good .... but that rattle from the wastegate is there 🤣
Smoke testing these cars is not the best option. Unless it's a major leak it normally won't show up until it's under pressure. I've had leaks that didn't show up until 15 to 20 psi.
@@socobarbell sounds like a possible explanation as to why usually throws "engine malfunction - reduced power..." error (even though it doesn't actually go in limp mode) when pushed it harder and typically in third gear..... but at the mechanic's the bitch pretends like nothing's wrong when blown smoke up her ......
Just checked my logs from that fateful trip down the coast... very very similar looking to what you showed on the Vargas car log, you know what that could mean.... 😔
The steam coming out of the cap is water. Perfectly normal don't worry about it, usually condensation builds up overnight and when you start up your car it boils off. It's usually gone within 30 minutes of starting your car
andrew put the vargas car on the hoist and adjust the rods on the wastegates to put more pressure on them to see if you get more boost if it does then get a wastegate repair kits cheaper than new turbos. have you done a smoke test on the charge pipe you might have a leak where the charge pipes merge 1 turbo boosts and 1 leaks. cheers glenn
Havent done a pressurised boost test. But i think the next step will be back on the lift like you said, check the wastegates are actually seating and then for leaks un the charge pipe.
Think you guys would benefit from a boost pressure test kit. I have one and it's just bungs you place in to cap the system either end and then use a compressor to fill the system and then search for leaks. Works even better with smoke inside the system as you can see it poor out anywhere in the intake system between the caps.
Yeah! Been wanting to piece one together for N54s for a while tbh
@@ZeroTo60Tube go to Bunnings and buy some plumbing caps, then drill hole and glue in air compressor fitting
hey boys! i had a problem with my stock outlets, the silicon joiner had broken and when i would come on boost it wouldnt be full boost until 4000rpm and every time i let off the peddle regardless if i h ave a BOV/diverters or nothing at all i would always hear a "psh" noise from the drivers side, turns out i was boost leaking HARD. go ahead and scope out that turbo outlet silicon joiner that connects the aluminum outlets, i went to VTT rhd outlets after this.
hope that helps!
Dude this could be it, I can hear a whoosh on this car that I can’t hear on the 17t car. Hmmmmm
@@ZeroTo60Tube definitely sounds like the problem brother! hopefully i see a video on this from you guys soon (im crossing my fingers) and that was the problem!
My Subaru might be different, but when i had that happen with my oil cap it was a ringland failure, I also had oil coming out my exhaust, and misfire, etc.
Check between the intercooler and the charge pipe in the intake manifold. Sometimes the charge pipe doesn't flush properly into the manifold
Vargas car - possible hole in the intercooler somewhere ? Needs a smoke test through the boost system
Boost leak.
Leak is relatively smaller at higher air flows (high revs) that's why boost pick up after 4000 rpm.
Looks like there are some helpful comments, hope they help in getting the Vargus turbo car sorted
Yeah a few more things to go through and check.
Tighten the wastgate arms mine did that turn them about 3-5 turns
for the 17t car why don't you disconnect the air lines to waste gates and go for a drive and see if you get more than 15psi? just get off the throttle quick if it does get more than your target boost. doing the above would rule out leaking wastegates.
Pull the downpipes and hook up a manual vacuum pump to the vacuum line and put 7 inches of vacuum on each actuator and then see if you can wiggle the wastegates. Could be a wastegate adjustment but most likely wastegate isn't closing all the way.
Sound advice as always. Thanks man
Could be a boost leak. Check the WG duty cycle to see if its working hard. Check the intercooler connections and change the vac lines.
That car looks so fun.
Orly - Tq limit 2048 disabled? Since its technically a manual.
If they boost over target, even for a split second it will close the throttle too.
Check the wgdc values on the vargas car, if they are stupid high or different from each other.
A couple of good things to check, thanks man!
Wow guys, the BC DS series is the best choice for this car! Incredible car response! I think it's a small boost leak. Maybe the wastegates are not closing at low boost. The actuators on the turbos can be worn out..... Dutch regards, Nico.
I've had your exact problem on several cars. I just fixed mine the other day after weeks of diagnostic. It had the exact opposite problem. Wouldn't hold boost at high rpm. Turns out I had a leaking manifold.
Do the wastegates have enough pretension on them? Eg are the wastegates properly sealing
Proly a good idea to do a leak down test. Sounds like a boost leak problem to me.
Remove the downpipes and adjust the wastegate arms, make sure they close at the OEM spec of 5.91inHg using a vacuum gauge directly connected to the wastegate actuators. Solved my issue.
Share the log - WGDC is over 80%?
Measure vacuum - put in a Y and measure in the cabin while driveing and under WOT
Kill the exhaust vacuum line - put a screw in the line or block off the litle nipple on the big vacuum hose (it is the golf tee mod but you not risk vacuum leak)
Put a gopro and a light in the engine bay - see what does the diverters
pressure test the pipes - maybe the IC leaking or the connections
test the WGs - buy a vacuum tester and manually close the WGs, with 6inHg the WGs shoud be closed
maybe the exhaust not free flowing?
broken/cracked vacuum canisters?
easy test: start the car, then turn off, wait 2 minutes, disconnect a vacuum line and if it does not hold vacuum.....
wgdc in the log, I got 100% all time. boost comes on very very slow due to one of the WG is not closing. changed turbos and solved.
That was the issue I had for the longest time...was dead turbos unfortunately. VTT unfortunately seem to have an issue with failing turbos...they will never admit it though
which version of VTT did you have?
@@ZeroTo60Tube nope, not me. I have the DAWs, my friend bought a car which had bad VTT turbos which were rebuilt
I apologize, this is one of those friend of a friend type of thing...
@@SuperHbkforever ahhh say no more!
I like the idea of checking the wastegates on the Vargas car with the dps off. Any chance you checked the boost solenoids?
Yes, we have swapped to good working solenoids.
As others have suggested, I see it could be either wastegate issue, partly closing or leak somewhere after turbos. Pulling downpipes out would reveal if it's the first. Pressure / smoke test for the leak. Someone was guessing if it could be tune related. That can be ruled out by reading WGDC bank 1 (%) and 2. If they are not showing above 92% values, it could be simply tune to prevent too big torque values on low rpm, to prevent rods bending. Tony from Vargas has commented that they have seen bent rods already around 700NM and commented that it's pretty common issue caused by upgraded twins. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Worth checking MHD logs for that value
WGDC bank 1&2 (%) translate to electric signal demanding for vacuum. That is sent to boost solenoids that then control the vacuum to actuators and eventually the wastegates. I assume you've also checked the vacuum line after the boost solenoids as they are hard to inspect unlike the other lines that can been visually inspected
Running again this weekend at rolls?
What are the wastegates doing? If they’re 100% at wot and your turbo is only delivering 15psi against a target of 20 then that would suggest they’re kaput right or you have a leak somewhere.
Are your logs on datazap?
If it doesn't misfire all the time it's not internal damage. Is it possible the valve cover (I think y'all call it a rocker cover) internal PCV is cracked or blocked? The valve cover has a complete internal PCV system that go from the intake ports on the cylinder (little tiny holes) through the top of the valve cover. If there is anything wrong with the valve cover PCV your BOV won't work properly, and you will have to much crank case pressure so I'm wondering if you rear main seal blew. Also if you read my previous comment you will see me talking about high side pressure getting below 1500.
The smoke is from the Vent to Atmosphere PCV right? Is it venting to the transmission tunnel?
I don’t think it’s pcv smoke it only seems to do it under hard acceleration from slower speeds. The only other time I have seen it is during a trans brake skid 😉
Maybe it has the wastegate rattle fix on mhd. I'm sure it has a custom tune but you could try flashing an mhd map and see if the wastegates behave the same.
It does currently have OTS stage 2 plus on it
@@ZeroTo60Tube you can enable "rattle fix" on mhd, then u got that big boost lag u have there too - thats what he wanted to say. maybe doublecheck that it is not enabled. also: boost solenoids fucked up made mine lag a bit too dont know why
Maybe Westgate is not closing properly
How does the "blow by" compare to the other two N54 cars? Personally i would compression test it, and just send it, if its buggered send it harder!
To be honest similar, but the colour of ohhrly is what scares me.
Just do a hot re torque on the head studs and see how she does with the blow by ! 👍
On your 17t car, you said you are running diverter valves? Do you remember which ones ?
Is it smoke ? Or just condensation on cold start?
I think smoke. But could be condensation. It only starts after it warms up tho. On pure cold start there’s nothing.
Zero To 60
"Sniff test" should tell you if it's smoke or water vapour?
Could the smoke coming thru the shifter on Orly just be tyre smoke..?
🤷♂️
Looking forward to some work on a. Normal car 😂. A thought when you swopped to your 17t turbos what happened to the original ones to try in the non boosting car ? On a different note have you guys ever tried changing the 4 cylinder dash cluster to the 6 cylinder dash cluster.
Still have 4 goodish stock turbos. But I don’t think I’d ever refit stock ones. Once you experience hybrid there is no going back.
Back up and Running🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥Misfire Fixed💪🏿 Letssss G0
Can you guys do a review of the spool helix hpfp overdrive kit on one of your cars?
We actually don’t like the overdrive kits. They are fine for people chasing smaller power levels. But if you have a N54 why would you do that haha. If you wanna make reliable big power on any direct injection engine it’s port injection all the way.
@@ZeroTo60Tube would it be interesting to find out what power they can reach with e85 and direct injection only, if it’s not that far off power wise to a port injection kit, cheaper than port injection and retains all dme safety, another option for n54 owners chasing more power
@@jasons4745 I personally dont see any benefit in regards to safety by sticking to DI only. The only thing the DME protects itself from is misfires. The DME will lean out to destruction and keep firing, not too bad at the stock 8 psi, but at 25psi things melt pretty quickly. There is no safety in regards to lean conditions with dme only. Since about 2016 MHD has had a safety coil cut option for cars running PI so if the DME activates its misfire safety it shuts the coil off as well as the DI injector, so no issues with PI like there was in the very early days. A smarter PI controller, like a JB4, microsquirt or Haltech can be setup to pull boost if the car is lean, they monitor load on the port injectors and pull boost if there is an issue with a port injector. Port injection is very simple its the most common type of fuel injection out there. You legit can not get a more tried and test fuelling solution. Every powerful DI car on the planet runs port injection on top of DI. Lambos and R8s come with Di and PI from the factory because even with all of the tech VW/Audi have, they can't make a OEM reliable 600 engine HP with only 10 direct injectors.
I can't really understand why the N54 world thinks sticking to DI only is a good thing. In regards to your questions of DI only, whether its twin HPFP from VTT or the Helix 4x overdrive the stock index 12 injectors when they have decent pressure will pretty safely make 600whp on an ethanol mix, maybe a smidge less on full e85. The cars that run DI only and make 800whp seem to go through index 12 injectors very frequently which is just madness considering what they cost. There is a number of well documented issues with the overdrive kits and i have watched a lot of people go from PI to the overdrive and then 6 months later back to PI.
I do know in the early days a few people had issues with the injectors supplied with the port injection kits which left a bad taste in a lot of peoples mouths ( a well known tuner is one of these people, however i dont think he fully understands why he had an issue). I personally think a lot of that was caused by the kits being supplied with cheap injectors designed to run at 40-45psi (normal cars like an LS) not the 60-80psi the N54 LPFP system runs at. A well setup port injected N54 will be safer than a DI only one as it will pull boost if the motor goes lean. Even if that lean condition, is from a direct injector issue.
A decent port injection setup takes the strain off the factory DI system, makes that more reliable and then adds safeties while easily being capable of making 1000+whp. On the same note if you are only chasing 500whp a 3x helix with the bracket will be pretty safe. There is a lot of market hype and internet opinions on this however. But all the real cars, who actually make power and go fast run PI.
@@ZeroTo60Tube wow really appreciate the reply, overdrive cancelled and port injection ordered👍
Good luck with it man. A pi kit with good quality injectors will last you years of mods and upgrades. If you are planing on going over 650whp make sure you get 750 or 1000cc injectors off the bat.
Orrlys ...rings are gone.
Ring lands are most likely cracked..
Your smoke and oil is blow by out the open dump wastegate.
That Bc /ds suspension kit and the M3 control arms are pure porn
Yeah i think it should be the best bang for buck setup you can do to one of these.
Great stuff as always boys
M3 steering rack? It's been a good upgrade for me. Still to do the servotronic bit but it's live-able without it
I put a M3 rack on mine and tbh there not that much difference, it actually feels nicer but only on lower speed
The real downside here is the kids aren’t going to see any fast car moving vids due to the rain today
Hope you got it sorted 👍
Dude! Sorry to hear about your car. What a shame man!
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah i know if it was the engine i wouldn't mind. To self destruct really sucks.🔥🔥
@@tighematthew Man, really sorry about your car. Looks like you'll be able to salvage the go fast bits at least have a spare motor to maybe build up on the side? Hopefully you find something awesome to replace it with soon.
@@motodigitalvideo Thanks man
waste gate leak they aren't closing all the way had to replace mine they were shot
Great video as always ☺️
Looking forward to the BC+M3 arm mods!
TRW makes the BMW oem arms. THey just grind off the M3 logos. Add the rear arms also to reduce flex under power and aftermarket adjustable toe arm like the Manzo and ECS lower arm to really tighten up your suspension
@@mjbobbitt3592 What do you think of Megan Racing/SPL suspension parts compared to the TRW M3 arms? Better or worse?
@@cupompa Hey George, I dont have any experience with Megan Parts on this platform. They are adjustable. I have full M3 arms, fixed Dinan CC plates, Koni Yellows, rear subframe bushing inserts from Whiteline, rear M3 arms, Manzo adjustable rear toe arm and ECS lower arm. Handles amazing. Did the same setup on a 06 330i also.
@@mjbobbitt3592 Awesome. Thanks for the insight, I'm looking to OEM+ upgrade my stock suspension soon since I'm almost at 95k miles on a 08 335i. Front + Rear TRW/M3 arms for sure are on my list via fcpeuro's 11 piece kit. Have 4 new stock shocks/struts from previous owner at 80k miles. Might buy Revshift's aluminum rear subframe bushings + rear trialing arms. I love the options available!
@@cupompa sounds like a good plan. the dinan front CC plates are a must. dialed in the front for better grip and more neutral steering feel after the M3 front arms. Follow their (dinan) instructions on the M3 alignment specs . I had issues just on a stage 1 tune with the rear arms flexing, so the M3 arms and the Manzo toe arms solved that. went Manzo as they were harder than stock rubber bushings and did not add more NVH
A very laggy turbo like that is a wastegate issue, and if you're running those turbo's I wouldn't replace them, just get some aftermarket turbo smart waste gate actuators. Should only be like 300 for both of them.
Second thing is, you can always double check the adjustment of the actuator rod, some are adjustable, and maybe they weren't set up correctly and needs to be adjusted correctly, and thats free :P
Hi where in Queensland are you guys based
Idk why my comment keeps disappearing. It's a boost leak. You can get everything you need for a pressure test at home depot for just a couple dollars. I tried sharing a link that shows how but I think that's why it's disappearing.
Ahhh shit, thanks man. Yes TH-cam auto blocks any links it’s a pain. But saves a hell of a lot of spam.
I have the same issue (just picked up the car not long ago), have done a smoke test and it’s all good .... but that rattle from the wastegate is there 🤣
Smoke testing these cars is not the best option. Unless it's a major leak it normally won't show up until it's under pressure. I've had leaks that didn't show up until 15 to 20 psi.
@@socobarbell sounds like a possible explanation as to why usually throws "engine malfunction - reduced power..." error (even though it doesn't actually go in limp mode) when pushed it harder and typically in third gear..... but at the mechanic's the bitch pretends like nothing's wrong when blown smoke up her ......
Gonna do a diy on the 17t suspension changes?
I will yes, well i will film the process, wont be a full on step by step DIY, just key things to note.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Great! Look forward to the next!!
The pressure test is your fact test .. wouldn't hurt
If it's bad, just drive it even harder! Who cares at that point?
Can’t wait for more goodies on the e92!
Dude help :( I have the same problem but in low RPM around 1.000 2.500 than it's totally gone
Just go Tial bov and get it over with!
This happen exactly to my brother in low bro try to do smoke detectors test you might have air leak
Buy a turbo rebuild kit
No job is too big for Team N54!
Cant wait for tomorrow's video
Me too, i've been waiting legit since first week of January.
Seafoam in the next oil change it works...
Also marvel mystery oil... it brakes carbon back to oil FYI.....
What Coil kit is that, anyone knnow??
Its a prototype kit based on R35 GTR coils.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ty!
When you pressurize it use soapy water everywhere. You won't always hear the leak.
Just checked my logs from that fateful trip down the coast... very very similar looking to what you showed on the Vargas car log, you know what that could mean.... 😔
Ewwwwe
It wouldn't be something silly like tune related?
IDK if it runs JB4 alone or +BEF, maybe something in a setting like that?
The Vargas car is mhd only and had a couple of different tunes on it.
Let's get matching shirts, beards, sunglasses AND ACCENTS!!!
Im guessing you haven't worked out we are brothers.............................
That suspension is sexy
The steam coming out of the cap is water. Perfectly normal don't worry about it, usually condensation builds up overnight and when you start up your car it boils off. It's usually gone within 30 minutes of starting your car
👍
40 to 80 eh..
Yes..... absolutely....... :|