could the issue be the tune? I know some tuners on manual cars try make it so boost doesn't drop when the clutch is pressed in, since its happening on up shifts.
Hi, check that EPC issue, its not safe to have it on stock CJX. I spoke with You at carpark ( close to GP track-red NURBURGRING neon) ( beg of june) how Your G7R changed in 2 years :D . Fast car and clean af imho! Fast run Mischa !
Watching the video the ECU took the engine into protection mode during an 'over rev' when downshifting and the RPM topped 7000, or when upsifting with not enough throttle lift when dipping the clutch. Maybe time for a custom ECU so you have more control over the engine and can cut ignition over a set RPM if the clutch is depressed
If you watch the first incident around 6:00, you'll notice that RPM wasn't even 6000 when it failed. I would guess some wiring is a bit loose and with G-forces combined with suspension shock, some electronics gets unhappy. If you scan the control units, you'll probably find which part is have intermittent short to ground or open circuit.
I watched the owners video first and then this one, such a big difference in the camera quality on your lap. Your investment earlier in the year on equipment was well worth it.
My guess is it's over boosting on the up shifts peaking 7K+ RPMs just enough to active the overboost cut. At that critical shift point it just doesn't have anywhere to send all that boost pressure maybe an issue with the blow off valve not reacting fast enough. FYI This is just a educated backseat diagnosis from 30+ years in the Auto repair industry.
Epc light is electronic power control module. Limits engine to 4k rpm to prevent engine damage. Same thing happened to me at 100F. Epc light started, kept resetting, then check engine light came on. Needed carbon cleaning and fried my coilpacks. Misfires in cylinder 1,3, and 4
It was nowhere near the limiter when it happened, so don't think your logic is sound on what's causing it, but it does need to be disabled in the software.
@@lambo603 The limiter is upped by the tuner? Most of these engines don't like it above 7000 RPM And his observation is correct, most if not all where above 7K RPM when limp mode came on..
@@lambo603 i just rewatched and saw it happen the 1st time under hard braking without hitting the rev limiter…. Good eye 👍… I was just noticing it happening later on seeming like the fault would appear a second or 2 after bouncing off the rev limiter…. Now I’m wondering if it’s caused by the crank sensor after hitting rough spots or or tire slip
Love misha and his commitment to the ring. He’s living a dream that most of us can only imagine but the amount of hard work and time he has put in is incredible.
I’ve owned both an MK6 and a MK7 GTI over the last decade or so, both tuned and driven hard everyday, and only seen a check engine light ONCE on my MK6 and it was 4 years ago. I drive 20,000 miles a year (not km’s). Anyone saying VW’s always light up like Christmas tree’s are still living in the 1990’s. Not sure why this GTI is throwing lights (besides tuned to 502 hp lol) but it’s probably something minor like his wiring was changed when he gutted his interior.
The GTI’s I’ve owned have been the most reliable cars I’ve had. Some Previous cars (just a few of many): 2006 Forester XT: blew its turbo and had AVCS issues. Rebuilt with a VF30 turbo with 330 hp. BMW E36 325is: Good car but tons of nagging issues like coils, window regulators and oil leaks R56 MINI Cooper S: AWESOME car but oil leaks,rear main seal leaks, banjo bolt leaks, intake manifold failure, timing chain stretched. Constant preventative maintenance didn’t help. Most fun car I’ve owned by a mile Volvo 850 Turbo: always something though nothing major Volvo 240: same E30 325es: every power steering pump leaked. But good car. 2nd most fun car I’ve owned. E21 320i: good car actually. Just slow 1986 Honda Accord: blew transmission in 1998 at 110K miles
So many potential issues can cause that limp mode. People have fixed it by replacing the coolant level sensor, topping up coolant, replacing the battery or just disconnecting/reconnecting it to reset the ECU, replacing the oil pressure sensor, and even lubing the rod linkage (turbo side) with high temp anti seize. Seems like the first place to start would be resetting the ECU with a battery disconnect, then try a different battery and so on....
If the car says “don’t go over 4k rpm” for five times, I don’t think that restart the engine to avoid the error and going full send is the best idea, maybe there is some kind of problem…!!The engine light also turned on the fifth time. This how you not have to treat your car!
the only reason i got rid of my golf R was heel-and-toeing on this thing is a nightmare coming from bmw's. Everything else was great with minor mods. Truly loved the car except for that one thing that really killed the joy given I love by some nice mountain passes with a lot of tight corners. Love the vid and still in awe how you managed to keep that front in check!
Yeah, Heel toe on BMW and Porsche with floor hinged throttle feels much better and more natural than most cars with the standard hinged above throttle pedal.
when people think 0-60 makes a quick car. The abuse a vehicle takes on track is another level. I used to follow HP as I built a 140, I went 420hp, m4 running gear, quaife LSD and builstein coilovers. it this was the perfect road weapon.
At 7:26 you can see the temperature rising. I believe that the rev limiter safe mode thing could be because of crash sensors and something to do with the airbag warning systems
At 8:41 he acknowledges the temp and tells Misha, I think he may have pointed out the Oil temp as Misha still cruised when the coolant temp came back down. Also that gauge in the cluster climbs and falls seriously quick, most likely not the most accurate.
@@Gobbbbb Oil temp dial is far from accurate, it's moving as the car rolls on a corner then levels back out, temp doesn't alter that quick. Actual temp can be displayed instead of the digital speedo, but they have chosen the speed in KM/H instead. It is reading 90 most of the time, I guarantee its 110 or higher
@@thewho9112 The gauge that's moving up and down rapidly is the coolant temp, not oil. I think he points to an Oil temp gauge in the centre that we cannot see (or maybe a more accurate coolant temp, not sure)
Looks like the EPC light turns on when tyhe power cut happens. Per VW it's one of these: Engine Speed Sensor Malfunction, Brake Light Switch Malfunction, Mass Air Flow Sensor Malfunction, Problem with the Cruise Control, or Problem with the Throttle System
That 4000 rpm error that comes up is a common problem for tuned Golf’s/AE888.3 motors. My worker GTi (450bhp) also does it, weirdly in third gear and when hovering the throttle. I simply turn the motor off and on to clear it. When a modified tune is added to the car there is a compatibility dysfunction that occurs where various other systems over ride/interfere with the computer. Tuners don’t and cannot tweak and modify all of the systems that are connected into the main engine management system and the risk is always that these systems ‘take issue’ with the changes ECU parameters (the tune) causing them to react. In my car it is always the cruise control system and the fault codes we get are all showing this as a fuel cut. Despite that it may not be running it is still ‘alive and connected’ in the back ground. We found that it can’t be overcome unless the main ECU is replaced entirely with an aftermarket unit. As long as there is continued use of the factory unit these sorts of issues occur. I’d recommend on a race car stripping all the factory wiring out and installing a proper ECU and you’ll see your issues go away. On the issue of heat my GTi also runs into issues on the track despite having 3 oil coolers and a race radiator. The AE888.3 inherent issue is that it can heat up to untenable oil temps on hot runs on hot tracks. The solution is running more and larger coolers, emptying the engine bay of things that cram it up. But other than that - welcome to squeezing the pup out of Golf’s. There is a reason why VW doesn’t push the boat out too far - the block is great but it has a bunch of weaknesses.
The 4k RPM limit is triggered when the oil pick is starved of oil (the most common trigger). Based on the engine design, the oil pick up is on the passenger side of the engine/sump. With high G-force left turns, the pickup is starved of oil and throws the error. A slight overfill to compensate along with a modified sump with baffles should prevent the oil being thrown laterally in hard turns. Perhaps some vanes on the aluminium sump orientated towards the pick will slow movement away from it (a sort of tesla valve type design). I speak under correction though.
@@hampshirephoto how does your rear end hold up to the torque? …I’m pushing 400hp at the wheel of my 2016 Mk7 manual Golf-R and it already went through one rear diff… though the zero point turns in the snow in winter two years in a row probably didn’t help. But it still lasted to 96,000miles which now I’m at 100,800 miles
@@KartiacKIDwhat have you been doing for haldex oil intervals? People who live in snowy climates have found the recommended intervals are too long since they are working the system much harder than those in warmer climates. I do mine at 25,000 mile intervals because of it.
@@flacjacket good to know, I did mine every 30,000 but I asked a lot from the back trying to slide it at any possibility…. Berry it in two feet of snow in ny over a weekend of snowboarding and drive it out, enjoy some snowy roads though I prefer oversteering rwd cars in the winter (I also love using the General stud able, non studded snow tires) …. But missed driving the e39 240i m-sport… much easier to control with just throttle input. The zero point turns in the snow don’t help either. Definitely recommend replacing the plastic oil pan with a steal pan if you live in a snowy area especially when driving routinely at highway speeds on snowy interstates for the daily commute… or face the rath of semi truck ice chunks cracking it…. I was surprised the aftermarket steal oil pan help strong after jumping over a deer carcass by brenswick/medina area at night (no highway lighting) going 80mph and landing on the noise of the car unexpectedly… by the time I saw it when the passing another driver and it was better to jump it straight on then try and swerve, landing off balanced. Luckily, only damage the lower bumper, plastic lower grill, and slightly bent an oil cooler…with a skid mark and residual along the whole bottom center section from front to back and some residual deer stuff on the oil pan with a minor little ding. I will eventually get a skip pad… probably using one from a recked allroad
Misha’s got it made. Gets to drive all these incredible cars on the best track in the world, and does every one of them justice by showing his viewers what the limits of these machine are, all while having the respect for the fact that they belong to someone else. What a fucking guy lol fav channel of 2023 for sure
Maybe a cylinder had hot spots or just high enough relative to the charge air (perhaps due to an undersized IC or an IC that's blocking too much fresh air from the rad) and he's getting some knock, so the timing goes in limp mode to protect the engine. Perhaps too much boost via the Turbo and it's at the point where it's creating too much heat. But whatever it is, it's almost certainly related to heat management because it goes away as soon as it cools down. Something about this Golf R made me think of an Ariel Atom.. Hopefully Misha has had one on the Ring for me to go find riiiight now. Such great content.
The gearbox/clutch is probably overheating, EPC light went on which stands for Electronic Powertrain Control so maybe add more cooling to the gearbox/clutch?
When overboosrinf the engine to its limits, revving it constantly to 7.5 and overheating the oil, isn't there some coding you can do to stop all the problems? I thought the computer was really clever and can cool the oil, strengthen the top and bottom ends, protect turbo bearings and so forth.
after watching this over a couple of times and closely analyzing that is causing the limp mode i do believe strongly that it has something to do with the electronic stability control not liking any small amount of wheel spin/hop in correlation with a high revving downshift shortly after. in my mind i think it has something to do with the tyres not having the traction they need so the wheel speed increases slightly quicker than its used to and when it regains traction it seams like its putting a lot of stress on the drive train that it doesnt like so the computer instead of "letting the car destroy itself" it puts it into a limp mode to try to minimize the amount of "damage'" that could potentially happen to the drive train. I feel like in all track oreintated cars all those sensors and controlls should be removed and disabled anyways with the exception of ac which can be controlled manually not by a computer, and ABS which is a preference from driver to driver. but idk im just a random youtube keyboarder
Great project tuning and pushing the Golf to the limit 💯 It looked like the crank sensor and software reached its limits to prevent breaking the engine.
I am fan of your foot work , The car looks an excellent project base that is not at 99% of its point. I humbly suggest just to smooth what is already implemented and not upgrade nothing more. For instance that lose cable near pedals is for me a sign that more things were not finished so carefully.
I know I'm late. To me it looked like the over heat kept happening in a late gear while at WOT. This is probably due to lean conditions in that gear which then causes surging in the fuel rail. That may also be tripping the engines fail safe systems,
That's a bit extreme. I'd like to set up a Mk7.5 Golf R Special Edition with a Stage 1+ tune, Ohlins road & track suspension kit, some sticky tyres, braided brake lines, pads etc, Recaro Sportster CS seats and a few other supporting mods as a fast road/track day car.
the factory temp sensor cluster display is not accurate at all the temps r +/- 30F its a dummy lite lol my cluster said 103 C and my gauge wired to OBD port said 113 C the factory coolant gauge range is worse its almst +/-40F
It could be a PCM issue. The extreme increase in power to the stock drivetrain and internals could be driving the computer insane. It’s detecting something but it doesn’t know what or why so it just goes into limp mode
My gti does it when oil is not completely topped up and I'm pulling g's on corners. Maybe a drysump or better baffled oil pan would help. Those are my next steps.
Loved the layout in this video. The cameraviews, screens and the tacho and speedo in sight was nice. Also funny to see how Misha got the hang of the 4k rpm error in the end and switched the car off and on in an instance.
My 2 cent’s on the issue. 1 possible cause is that the wastegate gets somewhat stuck and causes an error, which brings a limp home mode. And restart remedies it at first but after a long time, even that does not work. I had the same issue on a 2015 Leon Cupra. Also the second possibility is coolant temp, the vw coolant gauge usually lies a bit, I have had cases on my current Cupra, when it shows coolant exactly as 90C but in reality is around 105C in live data. That also explains the sudden movement and changes of the temperature needle. Basically it has to be too hot for a certain time period to register at the gauge.
Goed voetenwerk, Mischa! Duidelijk een bak ervaring. Wat een belachelijk snel apparaat trouwens. Jammer dat je de hele tijd die typische Audi storingen krijgt.
i think it thinks your crashing, there is another traction control light other than the one constantly on when tcl is off (@7:47) and EPC light that flashes and says revs limited to 4000, traction control is not completely off it seems. and something is up with the cooling system it fluctuates so fast maybe an air bubble? how it went up so fast almost instantly as throttle opened @7:24 as well as @8:36 something aint right. That usually happenes went coolant is very low in my experience or massive pocket
Might want to check that wiring that is dangling by the accel pedal. Its suspicious that the car is going into limp mode after that wiring is being batted all over the place. Wouldn't be a bad idea to test for a short circuit, wires being constantly flexed can eventually break or short.
I think baffled sump may be the fix, high g’s may be starving the oil pickup and therefore creating low oil pressure? Just a thought, was happening on my 420bhp gti last week at the ring and it turned out my oil was less than half way between full and empty.. might be wrong but worth considering
So damn and freaking cool that is a manual too!! Always get dissapointed when I see DSG, great trans and all, but so much cooler watching someone row some gears!
As far as I know, this 4k limit can be an ECU glitch, I remember seeing that with MK6s where they would state that oil level was low as well. Most people see it one time and never again. Could never really find a root cause for it, but could be related to oil. Check catch can (or PCV) and oil level. I would love to know more if anyone has a good explanation.
I gave u a like..... in years..... because your adverts this time were non obtrusive, and your camera's were exceptional, a reverse one would make it 100% 👍
I had the same problem with my seat leon cupra 5f. when it goes into safety, it means that the oil level is too low because it has certainly degauged. it is a safety device to avoid breaking the engine......
I have this problem on polo r 2.0t when was tuned to 430hp, when your misfire sensors are stock and your engine revs faster than normally at stock power this problem will be back everyday. I have hope this can help you a little bit about the car. Sorry for my English 😂 Greetings from Poland 🇵🇱
That Golf R is FWD, doesn’t sound like the haldex is working properly. My hybrid turbo mk7 gti slipped around just like this. My 7.5R behaves completely different on the edge of traction. Being a MK7 prone to the issues on the early years. My haldex is tuned, and has coding done to get rid of some of the traction/safety gremlins that kick in in the background or limit torque.
dont know if im compleatly off the rails here. but at one point the heat explode up and down-You werent pushing it to hard "7:10 min mark" compared to other placeses. maby you have a faulty heat sensor. and thats why its acting up
That fault of the max engine revs limited to 4000 I have seen it on my Stage 3 GTI.... Do you know what it is? I just got an oil cooler from Mishimoto... The oil was reaching 118C... I have not had the chance of testing this on the track again to see if it was solved.... The problem is that this does not trigger DTCs.... A mechanic told me it has to do with the throttle body reaching high temperature but I have my doubts
Was great to have you take it for some laps Misha! Despite the issues 😅 You’ll have to have another go once the next stage of upgrades are done
could the issue be the tune? I know some tuners on manual cars try make it so boost doesn't drop when the clutch is pressed in, since its happening on up shifts.
Hi, check that EPC issue, its not safe to have it on stock CJX.
I spoke with You at carpark ( close to GP track-red NURBURGRING neon) ( beg of june) how Your G7R changed in 2 years :D . Fast car and clean af imho!
Fast run Mischa !
It might be some electrical issues. Bad battery or a short. That can lead to many odd issues
@@jeroenvanos9653 vcds should tell easily
Luke why was I not surprised the car gave out !!
From what I've seen Misha destroys cars on a regular basis(or boils the breaks) 😅
This is my favorite channel as of 2023. Misha tha man
❤
Yep
Same I would love to just rip the ring all day
Agree misha is on a mission this year. Good to the views are up as they deserve.
Misha is very good entertainer and magnificent driver . If I see new video I get goosebumps
Haha. That dash looks like a pinball machine just tilted. 😂
LOL
Dashboard: what is the problem I should display?
Computer: yes
Normal VW things.
Water temperature 😂
Yoooo😂😂😂
Watching the video the ECU took the engine into protection mode during an 'over rev' when downshifting and the RPM topped 7000, or when upsifting with not enough throttle lift when dipping the clutch. Maybe time for a custom ECU so you have more control over the engine and can cut ignition over a set RPM if the clutch is depressed
Though you would assume stage 3 there is some custom ecu on there no?
If you watch the first incident around 6:00, you'll notice that RPM wasn't even 6000 when it failed.
I would guess some wiring is a bit loose and with G-forces combined with suspension shock, some electronics gets unhappy.
If you scan the control units, you'll probably find which part is have intermittent short to ground or open circuit.
Everything can be done on stock ECU
This is hapen when the oil temp is very high
@@autopower1165 very suspicious the temp needle do not move
man this guys videos of him driving is just getting better and better love it misha
It ain't a project car if you don't get random warnings and the "Christmas" lights on the instrument cluster every now and then
Words to live by!
still think to much tech can let you down and leave ya sticky. ill stick to old school.
@@thoughtbaker4639can let you down yes but also can save your engine or transmission by having safety parameters lol.
This! 😂
0:15 love the shots at the beginning with the music, great editing. And amazing how you run Misha
That piece of wiring dangling by the throttle is driving me insane...
Me too - probably that's the 4000rmp limiter switch.......
and slow brake pedal return. that car wasn't completely finished/tested for the track, imo, misha is beta tester here..
I thought it was just me 😂
It's the emergency ejector seat that's been disconnected badly and left to dangle
its just your FUSSRAUMLEUCHTENKABEL
That pull behind the Porsche as you passed the Ford was blisteringly quick. Well done. I love my VWs.
I love how Misha goes from 0 to the moon with no mechanical sympathy lol
the car better be ready. not a knock but if you have issue its coming out on the Ring.
@@user-tu1ee6dc5f Yeah if you hand Misha the keys you know what you're getting yourself in for
It’s on the track, what do you mean?
@@jasonm.1370 car wasn’t 100 and was giving it the full beans regardless
@@user-tu1ee6dc5f I noticed my fuel pump was prematurely failing on the ring 3 weeks ago because of all the fuel cuts on right hand turns.
I watched the owners video first and then this one, such a big difference in the camera quality on your lap. Your investment earlier in the year on equipment was well worth it.
Your channel has inspired a generation of racing drivers 💪 Thank you for sharing!
My guess is it's over boosting on the up shifts peaking 7K+ RPMs just enough to active the overboost cut. At that critical shift point it just doesn't have anywhere to send all that boost pressure maybe an issue with the blow off valve not reacting fast enough.
FYI This is just a educated backseat diagnosis from 30+ years in the Auto repair industry.
Epc light is electronic power control module. Limits engine to 4k rpm to prevent engine damage. Same thing happened to me at 100F. Epc light started, kept resetting, then check engine light came on. Needed carbon cleaning and fried my coilpacks. Misfires in cylinder 1,3, and 4
I'm impressed by the camera. Pointed directly at the sun and no blacking or dimming at all.
The 4000rpm warning seems to happen after violently bouncing the RPM’s of the rev limiter
Probably needs a software tune to adjust for the power or disable the 4000rmp limiter logic
It was nowhere near the limiter when it happened, so don't think your logic is sound on what's causing it, but it does need to be disabled in the software.
Was the car in limp mode partially? I haven't watched yet
@@lambo603 The limiter is upped by the tuner?
Most of these engines don't like it above 7000 RPM
And his observation is correct, most if not all where above 7K RPM when limp mode came on..
@@lambo603 i just rewatched and saw it happen the 1st time under hard braking without hitting the rev limiter…. Good eye 👍… I was just noticing it happening later on seeming like the fault would appear a second or 2 after bouncing off the rev limiter…. Now I’m wondering if it’s caused by the crank sensor after hitting rough spots or or tire slip
There’s something about manual golfs that just sound and feel so much better, this was so satisfying to watch with headphones
I used to praise DSG’s up until this video🤞🏽
Love misha and his commitment to the ring. He’s living a dream that most of us can only imagine but the amount of hard work and time he has put in is incredible.
The camera setup and dials here are perfection
7:19 the coolant temp rises quite fast, and then lower quite fas as well, is there enough in the circuit ?
water pumps of these engines are notoriously bad
@@9-and-3 are there some upgrades for that ?
@@alexanderdanielsson6049aluminum upgrade
I’ve owned both an MK6 and a MK7 GTI over the last decade or so, both tuned and driven hard everyday, and only seen a check engine light ONCE on my MK6 and it was 4 years ago. I drive 20,000 miles a year (not km’s). Anyone saying VW’s always light up like Christmas tree’s are still living in the 1990’s. Not sure why this GTI is throwing lights (besides tuned to 502 hp lol) but it’s probably something minor like his wiring was changed when he gutted his interior.
The GTI’s I’ve owned have been the most reliable cars I’ve had. Some Previous cars (just a few of many):
2006 Forester XT: blew its turbo and had AVCS issues. Rebuilt with a VF30 turbo with 330 hp.
BMW E36 325is: Good car but tons of nagging issues like coils, window regulators and oil leaks
R56 MINI Cooper S: AWESOME car but oil leaks,rear main seal leaks, banjo bolt leaks, intake manifold failure, timing chain stretched. Constant preventative maintenance didn’t help. Most fun car I’ve owned by a mile
Volvo 850 Turbo: always something though nothing major
Volvo 240: same
E30 325es: every power steering pump leaked. But good car. 2nd most fun car I’ve owned.
E21 320i: good car actually. Just slow
1986 Honda Accord: blew transmission in 1998 at 110K miles
11:57 After that last cut, the light that nobody wants to see came on 😂
So many potential issues can cause that limp mode. People have fixed it by replacing the coolant level sensor, topping up coolant, replacing the battery or just disconnecting/reconnecting it to reset the ECU, replacing the oil pressure sensor, and even lubing the rod linkage (turbo side) with high temp anti seize.
Seems like the first place to start would be resetting the ECU with a battery disconnect, then try a different battery and so on....
The content lately has been incredible
If the car says “don’t go over 4k rpm” for five times, I don’t think that restart the engine to avoid the error and going full send is the best idea, maybe there is some kind of problem…!!The engine light also turned on the fifth time.
This how you not have to treat your car!
the only reason i got rid of my golf R was heel-and-toeing on this thing is a nightmare coming from bmw's. Everything else was great with minor mods. Truly loved the car except for that one thing that really killed the joy given I love by some nice mountain passes with a lot of tight corners. Love the vid and still in awe how you managed to keep that front in check!
Yeah, Heel toe on BMW and Porsche with floor hinged throttle feels much better and more natural than most cars with the standard hinged above throttle pedal.
when people think 0-60 makes a quick car. The abuse a vehicle takes on track is another level.
I used to follow HP as I built a 140, I went 420hp, m4 running gear, quaife LSD and builstein coilovers. it this was the perfect road weapon.
At 7:26 you can see the temperature rising. I believe that the rev limiter safe mode thing could be because of crash sensors and something to do with the airbag warning systems
Thats the outdoor air temp, won't have any effect on the car warning lights
@@thewho9112 No it's not? Look at the gauge where the rev counter is, the outside temp is below the digital speedo.
At 8:41 he acknowledges the temp and tells Misha, I think he may have pointed out the Oil temp as Misha still cruised when the coolant temp came back down. Also that gauge in the cluster climbs and falls seriously quick, most likely not the most accurate.
@@Gobbbbb Oil temp dial is far from accurate, it's moving as the car rolls on a corner then levels back out, temp doesn't alter that quick. Actual temp can be displayed instead of the digital speedo, but they have chosen the speed in KM/H instead. It is reading 90 most of the time, I guarantee its 110 or higher
@@thewho9112 The gauge that's moving up and down rapidly is the coolant temp, not oil. I think he points to an Oil temp gauge in the centre that we cannot see (or maybe a more accurate coolant temp, not sure)
Looks like the EPC light turns on when tyhe power cut happens. Per VW it's one of these: Engine Speed Sensor Malfunction, Brake Light Switch Malfunction, Mass Air Flow Sensor Malfunction, Problem with the Cruise Control, or Problem with the Throttle System
This channel is so much fun. We live in such an epic time where one really can make money doing things they love. Your passion is showing.❤
That 4000 rpm error that comes up is a common problem for tuned Golf’s/AE888.3 motors. My worker GTi (450bhp) also does it, weirdly in third gear and when hovering the throttle. I simply turn the motor off and on to clear it.
When a modified tune is added to the car there is a compatibility dysfunction that occurs where various other systems over ride/interfere with the computer. Tuners don’t and cannot tweak and modify all of the systems that are connected into the main engine management system and the risk is always that these systems ‘take issue’ with the changes ECU parameters (the tune) causing them to react.
In my car it is always the cruise control system and the fault codes we get are all showing this as a fuel cut. Despite that it may not be running it is still ‘alive and connected’ in the back ground.
We found that it can’t be overcome unless the main ECU is replaced entirely with an aftermarket unit. As long as there is continued use of the factory unit these sorts of issues occur. I’d recommend on a race car stripping all the factory wiring out and installing a proper ECU and you’ll see your issues go away.
On the issue of heat my GTi also runs into issues on the track despite having 3 oil coolers and a race radiator. The AE888.3 inherent issue is that it can heat up to untenable oil temps on hot runs on hot tracks. The solution is running more and larger coolers, emptying the engine bay of things that cram it up.
But other than that - welcome to squeezing the pup out of Golf’s. There is a reason why VW doesn’t push the boat out too far - the block is great but it has a bunch of weaknesses.
I loved his little smile the entire time riding on track!
its insane how good Misha can drive in any car. really finding the limits everywhere.
Yeah he doesn't like RHD but he manages fine
@@productdesign9626i just realized it is the wrong side
Golf was essentially saying that it's only purpose is to be stolen and driven at 120mph on a motorway. Amazing driving.
The 4k RPM limit is triggered when the oil pick is starved of oil (the most common trigger). Based on the engine design, the oil pick up is on the passenger side of the engine/sump. With high G-force left turns, the pickup is starved of oil and throws the error. A slight overfill to compensate along with a modified sump with baffles should prevent the oil being thrown laterally in hard turns. Perhaps some vanes on the aluminium sump orientated towards the pick will slow movement away from it (a sort of tesla valve type design). I speak under correction though.
Finally a high horse power Golf! bet you love the R32 Golf V Mischa
The nurburgring is such an awesome place.
I would love to see this car again once the bugs get worked out… great built 👍
Thanks!
@@hampshirephoto how does your rear end hold up to the torque?
…I’m pushing 400hp at the wheel of my 2016 Mk7 manual Golf-R and it already went through one rear diff… though the zero point turns in the snow in winter two years in a row probably didn’t help.
But it still lasted to 96,000miles which now I’m at 100,800 miles
Yes for sure
@@KartiacKIDwhat have you been doing for haldex oil intervals? People who live in snowy climates have found the recommended intervals are too long since they are working the system much harder than those in warmer climates. I do mine at 25,000 mile intervals because of it.
@@flacjacket good to know, I did mine every 30,000 but I asked a lot from the back trying to slide it at any possibility…. Berry it in two feet of snow in ny over a weekend of snowboarding and drive it out, enjoy some snowy roads though I prefer oversteering rwd cars in the winter (I also love using the General stud able, non studded snow tires) …. But missed driving the e39 240i m-sport… much easier to control with just throttle input. The zero point turns in the snow don’t help either.
Definitely recommend replacing the plastic oil pan with a steal pan if you live in a snowy area especially when driving routinely at highway speeds on snowy interstates for the daily commute… or face the rath of semi truck ice chunks cracking it…. I was surprised the aftermarket steal oil pan help strong after jumping over a deer carcass by brenswick/medina area at night (no highway lighting) going 80mph and landing on the noise of the car unexpectedly… by the time I saw it when the passing another driver and it was better to jump it straight on then try and swerve, landing off balanced. Luckily, only damage the lower bumper, plastic lower grill, and slightly bent an oil cooler…with a skid mark and residual along the whole bottom center section from front to back and some residual deer stuff on the oil pan with a minor little ding.
I will eventually get a skip pad… probably using one from a recked allroad
Love the sound of that R Misha always doing a good job of keeping it going no matter what
Meh sounds soft, need the OG R32 sound.
Misha’s got it made. Gets to drive all these incredible cars on the best track in the world, and does every one of them justice by showing his viewers what the limits of these machine are, all while having the respect for the fact that they belong to someone else. What a fucking guy lol fav channel of 2023 for sure
Finally a Golf R video I was waiting for this 🙏
Maybe a cylinder had hot spots or just high enough relative to the charge air (perhaps due to an undersized IC or an IC that's blocking too much fresh air from the rad) and he's getting some knock, so the timing goes in limp mode to protect the engine. Perhaps too much boost via the Turbo and it's at the point where it's creating too much heat. But whatever it is, it's almost certainly related to heat management because it goes away as soon as it cools down.
Something about this Golf R made me think of an Ariel Atom.. Hopefully Misha has had one on the Ring for me to go find riiiight now. Such great content.
The gearbox/clutch is probably overheating, EPC light went on which stands for Electronic Powertrain Control so maybe add more cooling to the gearbox/clutch?
When overboosrinf the engine to its limits, revving it constantly to 7.5 and overheating the oil, isn't there some coding you can do to stop all the problems? I thought the computer was really clever and can cool the oil, strengthen the top and bottom ends, protect turbo bearings and so forth.
from tbhrottle wiring and sockt loose like this.
can tell this car have many isues on the wiring part.
after watching this over a couple of times and closely analyzing that is causing the limp mode i do believe strongly that it has something to do with the electronic stability control not liking any small amount of wheel spin/hop in correlation with a high revving downshift shortly after. in my mind i think it has something to do with the tyres not having the traction they need so the wheel speed increases slightly quicker than its used to and when it regains traction it seams like its putting a lot of stress on the drive train that it doesnt like so the computer instead of "letting the car destroy itself" it puts it into a limp mode to try to minimize the amount of "damage'" that could potentially happen to the drive train. I feel like in all track oreintated cars all those sensors and controlls should be removed and disabled anyways with the exception of ac which can be controlled manually not by a computer, and ABS which is a preference from driver to driver. but idk im just a random youtube keyboarder
Nice
When Your car is Scared, it pulls out all the Excuses the ECU can Give!!! Awesome Drive! Definitely Tyres and Brakes Replacement experience.
5:57 I wish I could see the other car's pov of Misha flying past them, that would look so rad 🔥
Misha absolutely mashing the accelerator
Golf R: 'computer says no'
great lap and excellent noises, thanks for the vid!
Maybe is overboost protection. It enters in safe mode when the ECU realizes that the boost went over the programed and the EGT is to high.
Great project tuning and pushing the Golf to the limit 💯
It looked like the crank sensor and software reached its limits to prevent breaking the engine.
I am fan of your foot work , The car looks an excellent project base that is not at 99% of its point. I humbly suggest just to smooth what is already implemented and not upgrade nothing more.
For instance that lose cable near pedals is for me a sign that more things were not finished so carefully.
I know I'm late. To me it looked like the over heat kept happening in a late gear while at WOT. This is probably due to lean conditions in that gear which then causes surging in the fuel rail. That may also be tripping the engines fail safe systems,
Guy has got Balls. This much Power on Stock internal 👍
Afaik, VW golf engines can handle a crap-ton more. There's an old GTI out there with 1200 HP on the original engine.
VW engines are way overengineered for the internals.
That's a bit extreme. I'd like to set up a Mk7.5 Golf R Special Edition with a Stage 1+ tune, Ohlins road & track suspension kit, some sticky tyres, braided brake lines, pads etc, Recaro Sportster CS seats and a few other supporting mods as a fast road/track day car.
Try changing the electronic screen to the oil temp sensor next time … wonder what temp the oil was getting up to
"yes"
the factory temp sensor cluster display is not accurate at all the temps r +/- 30F its a dummy lite lol my cluster said 103 C and my gauge wired to OBD port said 113 C the factory coolant gauge range is worse its almst +/-40F
It could be a PCM issue. The extreme increase in power to the stock drivetrain and internals could be driving the computer insane. It’s detecting something but it doesn’t know what or why so it just goes into limp mode
My gti does it when oil is not completely topped up and I'm pulling g's on corners. Maybe a drysump or better baffled oil pan would help. Those are my next steps.
Loved the layout in this video. The cameraviews, screens and the tacho and speedo in sight was nice. Also funny to see how Misha got the hang of the 4k rpm error in the end and switched the car off and on in an instance.
My 2 cent’s on the issue. 1 possible cause is that the wastegate gets somewhat stuck and causes an error, which brings a limp home mode. And restart remedies it at first but after a long time, even that does not work. I had the same issue on a 2015 Leon Cupra. Also the second possibility is coolant temp, the vw coolant gauge usually lies a bit, I have had cases on my current Cupra, when it shows coolant exactly as 90C but in reality is around 105C in live data. That also explains the sudden movement and changes of the temperature needle. Basically it has to be too hot for a certain time period to register at the gauge.
With a manual box, full tank and passenger. Drop the 🎤 edited to add: Pinnacle Motorsports obviously knows their stuff. Respect from 🇺🇸
wow this looks like a handful to drive! Incredible as always Misha
Goed voetenwerk, Mischa! Duidelijk een bak ervaring.
Wat een belachelijk snel apparaat trouwens. Jammer dat je de hele tijd die typische Audi storingen krijgt.
I can recommend do88 radiator for overheating issue, doing good job in skoda octavia with similar power
Tire pressure protection might be on, and disable RPM above 4000 in the ECU for security
My CC is the 4cylinder turbo .. stage 3 on kw coil overs. It’s a ripper… I’m making 320hp to the wheels on 93
I’m here from Car Throttle and what a utube Chanel - love the vids!!!
Micha your content is of the charts this year. I love it!❤
Awesome driving once again! would really love to see that R fly around the ring with full send once the car got its hickups sorted out :)
Christmas lights on the dashboard. Well done Misha 💪🏻
i think it thinks your crashing, there is another traction control light other than the one constantly on when tcl is off (@7:47) and EPC light that flashes and says revs limited to 4000, traction control is not completely off it seems. and something is up with the cooling system it fluctuates so fast maybe an air bubble? how it went up so fast almost instantly as throttle opened @7:24 as well as @8:36 something aint right. That usually happenes went coolant is very low in my experience or massive pocket
Might want to check that wiring that is dangling by the accel pedal. Its suspicious that the car is going into limp mode after that wiring is being batted all over the place. Wouldn't be a bad idea to test for a short circuit, wires being constantly flexed can eventually break or short.
Road legal in Britain. German TÜV would love to get their hands on it - NOT😂
I think baffled sump may be the fix, high g’s may be starving the oil pickup and therefore creating low oil pressure? Just a thought, was happening on my 420bhp gti last week at the ring and it turned out my oil was less than half way between full and empty.. might be wrong but worth considering
I think it’s shift point related. My tuned vw gives me an epc light when I’m going crazy and making a lot of shifts.
So damn and freaking cool that is a manual too!! Always get dissapointed when I see DSG, great trans and all, but so much cooler watching someone row some gears!
the sound is amazing
Great intro bro ❤top tune
I´m a honda guy, but i love the golf R. Such an amazing platform.
Love the vids..I had 17 r and let me tell u…it was in the shop every other day
EPC light also does come on with the 4000rpm warning
I have two things to say about this video:
Volkswagen, Das Auto.
and one another thing - Misha you are the best!
Love the exclusive blue arrows on the golf R's dash
As far as I know, this 4k limit can be an ECU glitch, I remember seeing that with MK6s where they would state that oil level was low as well. Most people see it one time and never again. Could never really find a root cause for it, but could be related to oil. Check catch can (or PCV) and oil level. I would love to know more if anyone has a good explanation.
I changed oil pressure valve on mines and sorted it
Fault in wiring harness or fault in battery. Intermittent ground connection, my guess. Use a temperature gun to look for heat in wiring.
I gave u a like..... in years..... because your adverts this time were non obtrusive, and your camera's were exceptional, a reverse one would make it 100% 👍
I used to praise DSG but this video has changed my perspective
I had the same problem with my seat leon cupra 5f.
when it goes into safety, it means that the oil level is too low because it has certainly degauged. it is a safety device to avoid breaking the engine......
It can be abs ring, low tire pressure and rest mistakes. I had the same in my Tiguan, exactly the same
I have this problem on polo r 2.0t when was tuned to 430hp, when your misfire sensors are stock and your engine revs faster than normally at stock power this problem will be back everyday. I have hope this can help you a little bit about the car. Sorry for my English 😂 Greetings from Poland 🇵🇱
Don't know why but that dangling wire is triggering me 😂
I was watching with sunglasses on so I didn't notice until I read this.
Haha same here. 😂 was watching the wire whole time if it catches the shoe 😄
the way it takes those corners...boy... smooth
That Golf R is FWD, doesn’t sound like the haldex is working properly. My hybrid turbo mk7 gti slipped around just like this. My 7.5R behaves completely different on the edge of traction. Being a MK7 prone to the issues on the early years. My haldex is tuned, and has coding done to get rid of some of the traction/safety gremlins that kick in in the background or limit torque.
Christmas Tree dashboard!😂 Steeringwheel on the wrong side … airbags disconnect 🙈 what a sheety experience wou had Misha 😃😃😂
Problem seems to occur during shift. When the engine rotates in its mounts. Probely bad wiring which u can find by OBD.
dont know if im compleatly off the rails here. but at one point the heat explode up and down-You werent pushing it to hard "7:10 min mark" compared to other placeses. maby you have a faulty heat sensor. and thats why its acting up
seems to be something wrong with the coolant temp gauge as well, it was stuck at 87°C and then suddenly it rises
Misha your absolutely fantastic stay safe brother keep on putting smiles on our faces
luke there's a lose connection dangling by the footwell next to the accelerator ... dunno what it is ... check in the vid you'll see it
That fault of the max engine revs limited to 4000 I have seen it on my Stage 3 GTI.... Do you know what it is? I just got an oil cooler from Mishimoto... The oil was reaching 118C... I have not had the chance of testing this on the track again to see if it was solved.... The problem is that this does not trigger DTCs.... A mechanic told me it has to do with the throttle body reaching high temperature but I have my doubts