Thanks for these instructions Ramon, your ZCI is real well designed & built. After raising the scoring blade, I carved out the scoring blade shoulder slots with a Dremel, it worked pretty decent, even though it was free hand, LOL. Thanks again….
Thanks! It took me some time to make it strong and with all the notches as small as possible. The portion that goes under the sliding carriage makes these unique and adds a lot of strength! I’m super pleased with how well they work! The scoring blade area is a little tricky but sounds like you made it work!
I just added some zero clearance inserts for my saw. Your technique for cutting slot for riving knife is great. I was thinking of using another method but not anymore. Thanks.
Those ZCI’s sell constantly! I was getting to repurchase the screws that I send with them, but I feel like they could be a bit longer. Maybe 1 1/4”. What do you think? Thanks David
@@ramonartful hey man your videos are really great. You do very nice work. My saw is a but different than yours, I’m still setting mine up, so I don’t know about the screws. I think whatever you use in the video work great. Do you have the inserts cnc machined?
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Hey David...I tried having them cut CNC but it ended up costing too much. And they looked horrible (two different businesses, one local one out of state) Also, shipping was part of the problem. I use 15mm Baltic Birch for the substrate and I cover both sides with Formica. This is adhered with epoxy rather than contact cement. This creates an extremely rigid and strong zero clearance insert. So, I make them myself. I have a series of jigs to drill the holes accurately, and cut all the different height steps or cut outs. I make 52 at a time. thanks
@@ramonartful wow that sounds amazing. 52 at a lime is nuts. But efficient I’m sure. Thanks for sharing. I made mine for my saw out if some crazy tough stuff. It’s not wood. Expensive but tough. Actually hard to machine. I made 5 and I love them. How much higher is your sliding table over your cast iron? Scm likes to make them with a decent amount above. It’s really recommended to not lower the wagon much but for joinery it’s going to be a little tough. Dado’s etc. I’m a cabinet maker and run full sheets over saw everyday. So the raised wagon helps to make it slide easier. That’s the idea anyways. Do you use plywood much?
Hey Ramon, I just wanted to follow up now that I've received my Hammer. I was installing the ZCI and I wanted to pass on a couple things. First, I found the 315mm blade is too big to make the initial cut. I had just received a 260mm to work with the scoring blade, so I used that. A 300mm blade would probably also work. I also found with a 315mm blade, I had to cut the slot back a bit further as the riving knife was pushed into the blade as I raised it up. Lastly, I didn't check that my 180mm scoring blade was free to spin when making that cut and ended up snapping my belt. Oops. Waiting on a replacement to finish the setup, but it's usable now. I'm very happy with the ZCI. Thanks!
Great video. Not only a great idea but I found that those pieces travelling down the extraction, have shredded the shit out of the dust extraction hosing which I now have to replace. But I'll only need to replace it once thanks to this video. Kudo's to you my friend.
Ramon I bought three of your inserts a few months ago and I’m trying to install it today, part of the problem I’m running into is that I have the same machine you have but it looks like your slider slides about six inches or more further than mines so I’m unable to install the insert. Do you have an idea why my slider doesn’t slide as far as yours. I’ve tried to figure it out but I can’t find what’s not allowing it to slide that extra six to eight inches which would allow me to pop in the insert. Thanks for your response.
Shoot…just now seeing this. I’m glad you figured it out but that’s interesting about your slider not traveling further. I’ve not heard of that from anyone. It should go in in the reverse position as well but a little trickier. My goal was to make the ZCI’s as large as possible. Glad you got it. Thanks
Good idea for elongating that kerf. When I did that to the stock blank OEM insert I used a 1/8" router bit on my router table; that was both annoying and a little disconcerting. I've also seen someone just clamp their new partially-cut insert over an existing installed insert, offset so that the riving knife section is over the blade. To me that seems like it would be harder to line up. Your method makes everything perfectly aligned. Nice tip with that piece of T-track and the Microjig clamp. Do you leave that piece of track in there all the time, and if so does it move a lot on its own? Likewise, what are you threading that wooden clamp into? Is that a piece of tapped aluminum? And do you leave that in there all the time as well?
Sorry...just now getting to this. Thanks for the good words. I don't use the MicroJig clamp very often. It works, but I like my shop made wooden hold downs much better because they can swivel and are much more versatile. And yes...I have three threaded blocks of aluminum that stay in the slot. One towards the front, one towards the back (but ahead of the machine screw that zeros out the crosscut attachment) and the third behind this screw. Hope that helps. Thanks
You should be able to move the carriage (slider) forward until it stops, then slip it in. I’ll email you…that will be a better way to correspond. Thanks
Well…sliders and cabinet saws are ready two different machines. It’s all about what each individual is going to use them for. In general, a slider is used mostly for easily cutting sheet goods but can be used for cutting lumber as well. My cabinet saw almost exclusively gets used for cutting lumber. At one point I did have a slider attachment for it, but it’s wasn’t a true slider and didn’t perform well. I think SawStops slider attachment is much better but still isn’t a true sliding table saw. Still, If I only cut sheet goods on occasion than I’d probably add the SS slider attachment. Hope that helps.
Hi Ramon! Tanks for a wellpapp made channel! You mention in this video that you have shown some modification of the dust Hood o your Instagram... l can't find it... Can you help me find it?
Took a bit of digging..:I think this is what you meant. instagram.com/p/B-Mm-Kyji2_/? I have some other links about the Hammer K3 if you’re interested. Much thanks.
@@ramonartful I have bought a used B3 and have looken through your yt videos! Hon about your main dust collection under the blade?? I tend to fill the saw inside with sawdust...
I have a HammerK3 and bought one of your inserts. It doesnt fit flush with the cast iron table after installation. Do you sell or can you recommend some shim material to raise the insert?
Hey Ed. That’s strange! I’ve not encountered that before. I check each and every one that ships out. How much lower is it? If you have dial calipers…maybe measure it. If it’s not much…I’d use masking tape in the screw locations. Each layer is about .0035”. Or four layers .015” (1/64”) If it’s more than that, let me know. Thanks
@@ramonartful My digital caliper showed that the insert was between .22MM and .13mm low from front to back. I put 3-5 layers of painters tape on the back of the insert at each mounting point. That was enough to level the insert to the table. Thanks.
@@edstengel2495 I apoligize! That insert must have missed "quality control". I attempt to measure each one at the four points where the screws are. For me, the magic number is 5/16" or 8mm. I have noticed that the distance from the top of the cast iron to the recess area, varies from one screw location to the next. They're not as accurate as one would think. So the measurements that I use are an average. I have an insert that had a mis-drilled hole, but has been repaired with epoxy. I won't sell it but I would be happy to send it to you.
Thanks for these instructions Ramon, your ZCI is real well designed & built. After raising the scoring blade, I carved out the scoring blade shoulder slots with a Dremel, it worked pretty decent, even though it was free hand, LOL. Thanks again….
Thanks! It took me some time to make it strong and with all the notches as small as possible. The portion that goes under the sliding carriage makes these unique and adds a lot of strength! I’m super pleased with how well they work! The scoring blade area is a little tricky but sounds like you made it work!
Just wrapped up extending the kerf and this technique work flawlessly. This is a must have upgrade! I will be ordering a couple more for my dado set.
So good to hear! Much thanks!
I just added some zero clearance inserts for my saw. Your technique for cutting slot for riving knife is great. I was thinking of using another method but not anymore. Thanks.
Those ZCI’s sell constantly! I was getting to repurchase the screws that I send with them, but I feel like they could be a bit longer. Maybe 1 1/4”. What do you think? Thanks David
@@ramonartful hey man your videos are really great. You do very nice work. My saw is a but different than yours, I’m still setting mine up, so I don’t know about the screws. I think whatever you use in the video work great. Do you have the inserts cnc machined?
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Hey David...I tried having them cut CNC but it ended up costing too much. And they looked horrible (two different businesses, one local one out of state) Also, shipping was part of the problem. I use 15mm Baltic Birch for the substrate and I cover both sides with Formica. This is adhered with epoxy rather than contact cement. This creates an extremely rigid and strong zero clearance insert. So, I make them myself. I have a series of jigs to drill the holes accurately, and cut all the different height steps or cut outs. I make 52 at a time. thanks
@@ramonartful wow that sounds amazing. 52 at a lime is nuts. But efficient I’m sure. Thanks for sharing. I made mine for my saw out if some crazy tough stuff. It’s not wood. Expensive but tough. Actually hard to machine. I made 5 and I love them. How much higher is your sliding table over your cast iron? Scm likes to make them with a decent amount above. It’s really recommended to not lower the wagon much but for joinery it’s going to be a little tough. Dado’s etc. I’m a cabinet maker and run full sheets over saw everyday. So the raised wagon helps to make it slide easier. That’s the idea anyways. Do you use plywood much?
Hey Ramon, I just wanted to follow up now that I've received my Hammer. I was installing the ZCI and I wanted to pass on a couple things. First, I found the 315mm blade is too big to make the initial cut. I had just received a 260mm to work with the scoring blade, so I used that. A 300mm blade would probably also work. I also found with a 315mm blade, I had to cut the slot back a bit further as the riving knife was pushed into the blade as I raised it up. Lastly, I didn't check that my 180mm scoring blade was free to spin when making that cut and ended up snapping my belt. Oops. Waiting on a replacement to finish the setup, but it's usable now.
I'm very happy with the ZCI. Thanks!
Hey Bill...just now getting to this. Bummer about your belt! Glad you like the insert...I love my K-3 even more now! Thanks
@@ramonartful No problem on the belt. Now I know how to change it. 🙂
Disregard my last message, I had to make some adjustments to the insert but I got it installed.
Great video. Not only a great idea but I found that those pieces travelling down the extraction, have shredded the shit out of the dust extraction hosing which I now have to replace. But I'll only need to replace it once thanks to this video. Kudo's to you my friend.
Oh yeah...great point! I use to have to clean out a dam of debris right at the elbow. Thanks
Pretty cool for sure.
Best thing I ever did for my slider!
Someone posted about your insert in the Felder Forum. It took me all of 10 seconds to decide to get one. Nice insert. Now I won't have to make one.
Thanks a ton...I appreciate that
Hola Ramon.
Has mas videos, y gracias por compartir tus conocimientos y trucos.
Latinoamerica tambien te sigue.
Gracias...mas videos por venir.
Ramon I bought three of your inserts a few months ago and I’m trying to install it today, part of the problem I’m running into is that I have the same machine you have but it looks like your slider slides about six inches or more further than mines so I’m unable to install the insert. Do you have an idea why my slider doesn’t slide as far as yours. I’ve tried to figure it out but I can’t find what’s not allowing it to slide that extra six to eight inches which would allow me to pop in the insert. Thanks for your response.
Shoot…just now seeing this. I’m glad you figured it out but that’s interesting about your slider not traveling further. I’ve not heard of that from anyone. It should go in in the reverse position as well but a little trickier. My goal was to make the ZCI’s as large as possible. Glad you got it. Thanks
Well done
Thank you…much appreciated
Good idea for elongating that kerf. When I did that to the stock blank OEM insert I used a 1/8" router bit on my router table; that was both annoying and a little disconcerting. I've also seen someone just clamp their new partially-cut insert over an existing installed insert, offset so that the riving knife section is over the blade. To me that seems like it would be harder to line up. Your method makes everything perfectly aligned.
Nice tip with that piece of T-track and the Microjig clamp. Do you leave that piece of track in there all the time, and if so does it move a lot on its own? Likewise, what are you threading that wooden clamp into? Is that a piece of tapped aluminum? And do you leave that in there all the time as well?
Sorry...just now getting to this. Thanks for the good words. I don't use the MicroJig clamp very often. It works, but I like my shop made wooden hold downs much better because they can swivel and are much more versatile. And yes...I have three threaded blocks of aluminum that stay in the slot. One towards the front, one towards the back (but ahead of the machine screw that zeros out the crosscut attachment) and the third behind this screw. Hope that helps. Thanks
I have received the zero clearance but I can not get it fit because the sliding table is in the way do you know how to remove the sliding table thanks
You should be able to move the carriage (slider) forward until it stops, then slip it in.
I’ll email you…that will be a better way to correspond. Thanks
I have sawstop table saw & they sell a slider attachment. Is yours something you find useful?
Well…sliders and cabinet saws are ready two different machines. It’s all about what each individual is going to use them for. In general, a slider is used mostly for easily cutting sheet goods but can be used for cutting lumber as well. My cabinet saw almost exclusively gets used for cutting lumber. At one point I did have a slider attachment for it, but it’s wasn’t a true slider and didn’t perform well. I think SawStops slider attachment is much better but still isn’t a true sliding table saw. Still, If I only cut sheet goods on occasion than I’d probably add the SS slider attachment. Hope that helps.
@@ramonartful I’ll keep using my track saw to cut down sheet goods. Thanks
Hi Ramon! Tanks for a wellpapp made channel!
You mention in this video that you have shown some modification of the dust Hood o your Instagram... l can't find it... Can you help me find it?
Took a bit of digging..:I think this is what you meant.
instagram.com/p/B-Mm-Kyji2_/?
I have some other links about the Hammer K3 if you’re interested. Much thanks.
@@ramonartful I have bought a used B3 and have looken through your yt videos!
Hon about your main dust collection under the blade?? I tend to fill the saw inside with sawdust...
@@matsadler1119 yeah...the cabinet does end up with sawdust all over inside. I haven't addressed that yet...surely there's something that can be done.
I have a HammerK3 and bought one of your inserts. It doesnt fit flush with the cast iron table after installation. Do you sell or can you recommend some shim material to raise the insert?
Hey Ed. That’s strange! I’ve not encountered that before. I check each and every one that ships out.
How much lower is it? If you have dial calipers…maybe measure it. If it’s not much…I’d use masking tape in the screw locations. Each layer is about .0035”. Or four layers .015” (1/64”) If it’s more than that, let me know. Thanks
@@ramonartful My digital caliper showed that the insert was between .22MM and .13mm low from front to back. I put 3-5 layers of painters tape on the back of the insert at each mounting point. That was enough to level the insert to the table. Thanks.
@@edstengel2495 I apoligize! That insert must have missed "quality control". I attempt to measure each one at the four points where the screws are. For me, the magic number is 5/16" or 8mm. I have noticed that the distance from the top of the cast iron to the recess area, varies from one screw location to the next. They're not as accurate as one would think. So the measurements that I use are an average.
I have an insert that had a mis-drilled hole, but has been repaired with epoxy. I won't sell it but I would be happy to send it to you.
@@ramonartful I appreciate the offer but it's not necessary to send a replacement, the tape on the back of the insert did the trick. Thanks
how thickness of your material
I use 16mm Baltic Birch and add Formica to each side. But the inserts are cut to fit...steps, rabbets, chamfers, etc. Thanks
Now I just need to order your insert so I have an excuse to get a k3.
Ha ha...yeah, buy the insert....the K3 must follow!
Bringing your main blade up at 45 degrees would eat away your zero clearance I guess.
You’re probably right. I have different ZCI’s for different angles. Thanks
@@ramonartful that would make you a patient man if you had to do 1 cut at 45 degrees!
@@leefranks1626 Ha ha...yeah, I hear ya!