I can't tell you how much these couple of videos are a godsend. Very very well explained and shot which made it very clear to follow. I'm not a trained mechanic so a job like head gaskets is a little more intimidating than something like changing suspension parts lol
I just completed mine. I have a couple friends that worked at Chevy. They made a good point to make sure where the head bolts go into are COMPLETELY dry. If not, any water, coolant in the holes will expand and crack the block. They have seen it plenty of times. I would of never even thought of that. Use lots of air and make sure they are DRY.
Followed this video and the head removal video every step of the way and I now have 250 miles on my truck and it's been flawless. Thank you very much for the awesome content and I can't wait to see more content on repairs and or upgrades for Silverados and or Sierras.
I'm glad you were able to complete the repair! That's exactly why I make these videos! We do have other videos that apply to you truck. Check out the 4l60e series!
Just top quality all around, very happy with how surgical you approached this. Thanks for showing how to prep the block as well that looked outstanding. Big thumbs up for these videos dude, you are the man!
Just finished head gaskets using your video. It was a success! Thank you very much! With out your video our family would have been up s$&t creek with out a paddle! Again thank you so so so much for making this video!
question about the torquing of rocker arms: on the rocker arms you stated too torque them whilst the “spring is elongated”, but once you torqued them down the first round you rotated the engine and said too torque while the spring is at the “bottom of its stroke” 21:36 then again at 21:44 from what you stated prior i took it that the springs on the rocker arms shouldn’t be compressed whilst torquing them so i’m a bit confused at what you were doing at those particular timestamps.
@@dudewecanfixit I work Monday through friday and get off at 4 everyday so last monday for an hour afterwork I’d do a little because my new heads wouldn’t arrived til that friday by the time they had arrived I had everything broken down and cleaned up. Saturday morning I started to install the new heads got them installed then realized the one of the little 2 coolant valves in the back of the head still had part of the stem stuck in the heaf so I had to remove the driver’s side head get the little stem out then pit back on and torque again with a new set of head bolts pushing me back a day sunday I woke finished the job and she’s running better than ever
Thank you dude! One comment, the driver's side head has the coolant temp sensor near the front, the passenger side has a hole in it and is leaking antifreeze. Not a problem because the old head on the passenger side has a plug in it. Just transfer that plug, leak is gone
@Dude We Can Fix it - I Noticed you refilled the cooling system with green antifreeze. If I don't recall, most of these GM LS motors call for the orange DEX Cool. Do you prefer the green antifreeze to the orange?
Every time I've seen somebody use the green and not the orange in a GM vehicle they end up blowing that seal in the water pump that is between the bearing housing and that weep hole that's there and it ends up leaking like a $2 sprinkler from Kmart out of that wheat bowl every time if you use the green if you use the orange I've never come across that problem but for some reason the green breaks that gasket right there
Great video!! I think I screwed up torque sequence, "I should have had diagram facing the same way the heads was. Should I get new bolts and try again? or I might have a chance they hold? I'm just trying to get thru winter.
Thanks a ton man! Going to be doing a 2004 chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 with almost 400,000 miles on it. Been my daily driver for a few years now and noticing a small leak.
Great video! Thank you. During your torque sequence it doesn’t look like you have a digital “angle” torque wrench or are using an angle guide. Are you “eye balling” the 90 and 70 degrees or did you calculate the ft lbs that would put you at. I’m currently replacing both head gaskets and lifters on a 2012 6.2l with a failed lifter. I have a 3/8” 10-100ft lbs click style torque wrench but unsure if I need to buy one with angle for this one job.
Great video....is the process of sending the head to get machine mandatory for a head gasket replacement if it is what is that process called and what you think that would cost... Im in the process of replacing a gasket on a 6.0 L77
If the engine overheated, it is likely that the head is warped and just replacing the head gasket will not be enough to get a good seal. Usually getting the heads reworked is under $300
Will I need to do this procedure as well as the value seals as well? I have rough idling and noticed oil sealing out from the spark plugs on cylinders 7, 2, and 4. All spark plugs were oil fouled after replacement.
I would imagine that is the best thing to do. Have you gotten an opinion from a local mechanic? I say local, because it's hard to diagnose something without seeing it.
@@dudewecanfixit not yet, but a mechanic told me if there isn't blue smoke in the exhaust, try an engine spray deep cleaning and catch can, since blow by is very common on GM LS engines. So far it's helped. I still want to take it in to get it looked at.
Definitely take it in to a trusted mechanic to get it checked out. I've never heard of using a catch can on a gas burner, but maybe that's a good idea.
To get them out of the way and also to drain the block of coolant. The heads have coolant passages in them and if you do not drain the block, it will make a mess when you remove the heads and possibly get water in your cylinders
When it comes to how clean the block surface needs to be. I had what looked like staining that my razor blade wouldn't take off. Is that normal, or will it make the gasket fail?
Keep an eye on those heads. Those are 706 Cas-tech heads. They are known to Crack at the valleys for the bolts. I have replaced my wife's heads because of it. They have a extremely small Crack but will slowly loose coolant into oil.
@@chevyss18 what finnally was the lightbulb moment was, I opened the oil fill cap and there was red residue coating the inside of the tube. the vaporized coolant coated inside the fill tube. once the valve covers were removed the driver's side was normal but the bad head side on the passenger was all covered in red residue from the coolant. Hope this helps.
Is there a ground wire attached to the heads somewhere? I used your video for the head removal and install, but not cranking and the tune shop says its because I missed a ground.
@westcoastwhiskers6848 I ended up pulling the intake again to find and couldn't find one. To be on the safe side I did order a "upgrade" ground wire kit and ran a wire on the back side from one head to the other and a wire from the driver side connection up front to the alternator bracket. Spliced into the ground wires on the coil pack wires and ran that spliced in and heat shrink sleeved wire to the alternator bracket as well. Still just cranking and no start so about to bypass the passlock set up and get the ecu tuned for the new cam and estimated head difference with the passlock and vats tuned out and hope that fixes it.
Wow, that is frustrating. Usually, there are 3 main grounds. Battery to frame Frame to engine Frame to body (cab) There may also be an engine to body ground Clean all of your primary grounds and check your resistance from your frame to your engine, battery and the body.
First, thanks for the video! I noticed you didn’t clean intake manifold very well, as in the ports, throttle body and the injectors. What that cleaned in a previous video?
@@dudewecanfixit there's no point in filling up lake mead. California and Phoenix will just waste more water..The more we have the more they will waste..
This is one of the magic points of the LS engine. The heads are interchangeable, so it does not matter which side you put them on as long as the intake ports are facing the center
It does, however I use oem thickness gaskets. If you have the heads machined multiple times or have a lot of material taken off, you would certainly need thicker gaskets.
TDC is not as important as I thought. Be careful not to strip the threads on any of the bolts, put them all in by hand and then torque them. Rotate the engine until some of the valves go down, and that will reduce the upward pressure on the adjacent lifters. Retorque, rotate the engine, retorque. You want to make sure you torque each bolt with minimal upward pressure on them.
Nice step by step my Dude. Just an observation, would you not go ahead and replace the lifters while the heads are off? These engines are known to drop a lifter or two.
It is definitely a good idea to replace them while everything is apart. I sent this head off to get resurfaced and valves replaced per customer request.
I usually hit them with a blast of compressed air to get any fluid and debris out before I finish cleaning. I may not have shown it in this video by accident
I'm a little confused by your question. Perhaps you can loosen one of the exhaust donut clamps, a triangle shaped metal bracket with three bolts in it. Maybe that will allow you to wiggle one side of the exhaust manifold to spread them apart and use a floor jack underneath to lift them up.
@@dudewecanfixit thanks man, i ordered the same ones i think their the felpro brand ES 72173 but seen comments of people snapping a bolt when torquing but looks like yours went in smoothly.
Great video , just wondered about lower head bolts closet to the firewall , I had trouble getting mine out due to hitting the firewall , finally removing them as I pulled the head out , noticed your bolts went straight in with no problem , do you ever run into that problem
I had the same clearance problem I had to take the head off with the rear bolts still in the holes. and will have to reinstall in the same fashion to get them back in.
Debris could cause the bolt to not go down far enough and not allow sufficient pressure on the head. Most likely it'll be fine though, just a precaution
The video was very helpful but what you forgot to tell people make sure they change the oil and you never put the top cover on before the engine runs and you make sure burp with thermostat open then you can put your engine cover on
How can both the intake and the exhaust of one cylinder be in the down most positions at the same time? You should be torquing each rocker on its base circle.
Im kinda intimidated I have white smoke coming out my exhausts and many people have said it might be the head gasket So I will be attempting to swap them out myself Ive done all the work on my truck since I've got it so I know her pretty good I will be following your video step by step thank you and please wish me luck 🙏
With a socket on the crankshaft bolt. Locate the large pulley at the bottom center of the engine, that's the crankshaft pulley. There is a large bolt in the center of it that holds it to the crankshaft. Rotate that bolt clockwise to turn the engine.
0:00 Introduction
0:17 Inspection
1:50 Block Cleaning
5:42 Head Cleaning
7:11 Head Gasket & Head Placement
9:41 Head Bolt Torque Specs
9:47 Head Bolts
15:37 Coolant Crossover & Plugs
17:23 Pushrods
18:30 Rocker Arms
22:11 Valve Covers
22:50 Exhaust Manifold
23:31 Spark Plugs
23:41 Intake Gasket
24:50 Intake
27:58 Ignition Coils
28:42 Engine Cover Hold-Down
28:53 Power Steering Bracket
29:44 Alternator
30:45 Radiator Hoses
31:53 Serpentine Belt
32:34 Air Intake
33:20 Engine Cover
33:31 Add Coolant
34:05 Prime Fuel Rail
34:36 Outro
Where did you gets all of the parts for this job?
I can't tell you how much these couple of videos are a godsend. Very very well explained and shot which made it very clear to follow. I'm not a trained mechanic so a job like head gaskets is a little more intimidating than something like changing suspension parts lol
I'm glad you found these videos useful, that is why we take the time to make them as thorough as possible.
I just completed mine. I have a couple friends that worked at Chevy. They made a good point to make sure where the head bolts go into are COMPLETELY dry. If not, any water, coolant in the holes will expand and crack the block. They have seen it plenty of times. I would of never even thought of that. Use lots of air and make sure they are DRY.
I appreciate the comment! I always use lots of air!
Thanks for the tip!
You probably just saved me a block the holes were FILLED with liquids of all types.
@@fuqutube Glad it helped.
Well now that new head bolts are torque spec I read this. Crossing fingers the brake cleaner with air dried enough
Brake cleaner evaporates very quickly, you should be fine!
Followed this video and the head removal video every step of the way and I now have 250 miles on my truck and it's been flawless. Thank you very much for the awesome content and I can't wait to see more content on repairs and or upgrades for Silverados and or Sierras.
I'm glad you were able to complete the repair! That's exactly why I make these videos! We do have other videos that apply to you truck. Check out the 4l60e series!
Update I'm at 6000 miles and I'm still good to go. (I realize 250 isn't much at all)
That's awesome!
Just top quality all around, very happy with how surgical you approached this. Thanks for showing how to prep the block as well that looked outstanding. Big thumbs up for these videos dude, you are the man!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are the mechanic version of Bob Ross - same temperament, volume, etc. This was an educational set of videos and soothing to watch. Thank you!
Thank you so much! Please subscribe and share!
I basically rely on this video to change my head gaskets. Lots of work for a first timer but it was done. Thank you sir!
I'm glad you did it! Now you know more about your vehicle!
Just finished head gaskets using your video. It was a success! Thank you very much! With out your video our family would have been up s$&t creek with out a paddle! Again thank you so so so much for making this video!
You're welcome! I'm so glad that this was useful for you. Please subscribe to our channel!
@@dudewecanfixit Subscribed and notification bell turned on! Keep pumping out those videos!
I'm working on my 5.3, thank you so much your video helps me a lot very well explained.✌💯
Glad I could help!
THIS VIDEO NEED WAY MORE VIEWS THIS WAS A COMPLETE STEP BY STEP TO REDO MY HEADS ON A 2006 CHEVY SILVERADO 1500 5.3 V8
We greatly appreciate the positive feedback! We strive to get you guys the best informative content possible.
question about the torquing of rocker arms: on the rocker arms you stated too torque them whilst the “spring is elongated”, but once you torqued them down the first round you rotated the engine and said too torque while the spring is at the “bottom of its stroke” 21:36 then again at 21:44 from what you stated prior i took it that the springs on the rocker arms shouldn’t be compressed whilst torquing them so i’m a bit confused at what you were doing at those particular timestamps.
Make sure they are properly torqued when the spring is elongated and the bolt is under minimum tension
Best Head Gasket tutorial on youtube
Happy you enjoyed it! Thank you for the support 😁
@@dudewecanfixit I work Monday through friday and get off at 4 everyday so last monday for an hour afterwork I’d do a little because my new heads wouldn’t arrived til that friday by the time they had arrived I had everything broken down and cleaned up. Saturday morning I started to install the new heads got them installed then realized the one of the little 2 coolant valves in the back of the head still had part of the stem stuck in the heaf so I had to remove the driver’s side head get the little stem out then pit back on and torque again with a new set of head bolts pushing me back a day sunday I woke finished the job and she’s running better than ever
I'm glad you got it done!
That's a great way to do it, take your time and make sure everything is perfect!
Y’all’s work is amazing
We appreciate that!
Well done video. I was looking for a video with step by step instructions and you made it, thank you
I’m glad you found it!
Thank you dude! One comment, the driver's side head has the coolant temp sensor near the front, the passenger side has a hole in it and is leaking antifreeze. Not a problem because the old head on the passenger side has a plug in it. Just transfer that plug, leak is gone
That's great! The heads are interchangeable, so if you swap them around that hole would be used for the temperature sensor.
@Dude We Can Fix it - I Noticed you refilled the cooling system with green antifreeze. If I don't recall, most of these GM LS motors call for the orange DEX Cool. Do you prefer the green antifreeze to the orange?
I do generally prefer the green over the orange. However, I always recommend going with the manufacturer recommendation.
Every time I've seen somebody use the green and not the orange in a GM vehicle they end up blowing that seal in the water pump that is between the bearing housing and that weep hole that's there and it ends up leaking like a $2 sprinkler from Kmart out of that wheat bowl every time if you use the green if you use the orange I've never come across that problem but for some reason the green breaks that gasket right there
Definitely want to do this to my 07. Something to save up for for next year
Are you fixing an issue by doing this?
@@dudewecanfixit I have no issues at the moment. But I do want to get it all rebuilt. Mine has over 200k on the clock.
simple I put blue towels in there keep them pushed down while I clean the surface with a sanding board!
How do you keep old gasket material and debris from falling into passage ways when cleaning mating surface? Great video.
Stuff clean rags into all holes while you are working.
I put clean rags or paper towels into the intake holes before I start cleaning.
Exactly
Dude great video well shot and explained. I wish the gasket replacement was as enjoyable as watching the video. LOL
Thank you so much! And don't we all 😂
Good looking parts
Your parts look good
We appreciate that!
Great video!! I think I screwed up torque sequence, "I should have had diagram facing the same way the heads was. Should I get new bolts and try again? or I might have a chance they hold? I'm just trying to get thru winter.
You should be fine, main thing is to start in the middle and work your way out.
Thanks a ton man! Going to be doing a 2004 chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 with almost 400,000 miles on it. Been my daily driver for a few years now and noticing a small leak.
Make sure the head surface is flat. You may want to get it machined or checked by a machine shop
Great video! Thank you. During your torque sequence it doesn’t look like you have a digital “angle” torque wrench or are using an angle guide. Are you “eye balling” the 90 and 70 degrees or did you calculate the ft lbs that would put you at. I’m currently replacing both head gaskets and lifters on a 2012 6.2l with a failed lifter. I have a 3/8” 10-100ft lbs click style torque wrench but unsure if I need to buy one with angle for this one job.
I just eyeballed it
Beautiful work fellas!
Yes!
Thank you!
Did u have to reset the timing after moving the pistons with the heads off
No, because we did not adjust the crank to camshaft timing chain
Great video....is the process of sending the head to get machine mandatory for a head gasket replacement if it is what is that process called and what you think that would cost... Im in the process of replacing a gasket on a 6.0 L77
If the engine overheated, it is likely that the head is warped and just replacing the head gasket will not be enough to get a good seal. Usually getting the heads reworked is under $300
On the 3rd pass is 9 & 10 50 degrees or 70? ...I have a 02 yukon xl 5.3 vin z l59 great video by the way.
I don't remember off the top of my head, but I show the Alldata instructions before I tighten them down.
Do you recommend using the castech heads? I heard they are prone to cracking
I'm not familiar with them
Will I need to do this procedure as well as the value seals as well? I have rough idling and noticed oil sealing out from the spark plugs on cylinders 7, 2, and 4. All spark plugs were oil fouled after replacement.
I would imagine that is the best thing to do. Have you gotten an opinion from a local mechanic?
I say local, because it's hard to diagnose something without seeing it.
@@dudewecanfixit not yet, but a mechanic told me if there isn't blue smoke in the exhaust, try an engine spray deep cleaning and catch can, since blow by is very common on GM LS engines. So far it's helped. I still want to take it in to get it looked at.
Definitely take it in to a trusted mechanic to get it checked out.
I've never heard of using a catch can on a gas burner, but maybe that's a good idea.
Muy buen video, explicado paso por paso, con este video pude solucionar mi problema. Muchas Gracias.
Mucho denada
How did you dona 90 degree turn without a scale or something looked like a regalar torque reach was used
Is it a must to have the heads sent off to a machine shop to replace the head gasket? Top notch tutorial man
If you are replacing the head gaskets because the vehicle overheated, then yes, the heads are probably warped and would need to be machined
I'm a noob when it comes to auto repair and I may have missed something but what is the reason for removing the radiator hoses?
To get them out of the way and also to drain the block of coolant. The heads have coolant passages in them and if you do not drain the block, it will make a mess when you remove the heads and possibly get water in your cylinders
What head bolts did you use? Are they all one size or do you have the two smaller ones on the side?
I got a set of felpro head bolts I think
Great Video Bro!!!
Thanks!
When it comes to how clean the block surface needs to be. I had what looked like staining that my razor blade wouldn't take off. Is that normal, or will it make the gasket fail?
If the surface is buttery smooth, it should be fine.
Keep an eye on those heads. Those are 706 Cas-tech heads. They are known to Crack at the valleys for the bolts. I have replaced my wife's heads because of it. They have a extremely small Crack but will slowly loose coolant into oil.
That’s good to know, thanks for the input
I am currently replacing my wife's heads for exactly that reason. I chased the issues forever before finally figuring out the problem.
I found your wife’s head to be just fine
@@davem3945 how do you diagnose that
@@chevyss18 what finnally was the lightbulb moment was, I opened the oil fill cap and there was red residue coating the inside of the tube. the vaporized coolant coated inside the fill tube. once the valve covers were removed the driver's side was normal but the bad head side on the passenger was all covered in red residue from the coolant. Hope this helps.
Is there a ground wire attached to the heads somewhere? I used your video for the head removal and install, but not cranking and the tune shop says its because I missed a ground.
I think there is one on the back of the head. By the firewall. It's a bitch to get to.
@westcoastwhiskers6848 I ended up pulling the intake again to find and couldn't find one. To be on the safe side I did order a "upgrade" ground wire kit and ran a wire on the back side from one head to the other and a wire from the driver side connection up front to the alternator bracket. Spliced into the ground wires on the coil pack wires and ran that spliced in and heat shrink sleeved wire to the alternator bracket as well. Still just cranking and no start so about to bypass the passlock set up and get the ecu tuned for the new cam and estimated head difference with the passlock and vats tuned out and hope that fixes it.
Wow, that is frustrating.
Usually, there are 3 main grounds.
Battery to frame
Frame to engine
Frame to body (cab)
There may also be an engine to body ground
Clean all of your primary grounds and check your resistance from your frame to your engine, battery and the body.
First, thanks for the video! I noticed you didn’t clean intake manifold very well, as in the ports, throttle body and the injectors. What that cleaned in a previous video?
I didn't realize I forgot to include that in this video.
Here's a complete video on the intake
th-cam.com/video/2SNkavPXEOI/w-d-xo.html
@@dudewecanfixit Thanks! I appreciate your videos; got a 4.8 that needs a new head gasket!
Nice, are you going to do it yourself?
If the head bolts don’t have lock tite on them should you use red or blue?
I'm not sure what the specs are for that. Try searching the internet for specs.
This is where I'm at on my truck. Hopefully we can get some dry weather here in the swamps of Arizona tomorrow 🙏..
I would hope so, it's usually very wet here in Louisiana
@@dudewecanfixit been rainy for 70 days straight here in AZ. I'm in central AZ near the mountains
That's wild, they need that rain a little farther north to fill lake Mead
@@dudewecanfixit there's no point in filling up lake mead. California and Phoenix will just waste more water..The more we have the more they will waste..
You're not wrong, we need to learn to live in our environment, not force it to drastically change to meet our needs.
@Dude We Can Fix it - After they clean and machine the cylinder heads, how can you tell which one is left and right, Or does it not matter ?
This is one of the magic points of the LS engine. The heads are interchangeable, so it does not matter which side you put them on as long as the intake ports are facing the center
Since you had the heads machine, does it change your piston to valve clearance? (Change what thickness of gasket use)???
It does, however I use oem thickness gaskets. If you have the heads machined multiple times or have a lot of material taken off, you would certainly need thicker gaskets.
Thank you
hello mate can you tell me where did you get your head gasket they look very good 🙋🏻♂️
Those are felpro head gaskets that I got from O'Reilly Auto parts
That’s some nice heads
Super nice
How flattering!
What about using anti seieze if your doing this on a aluminum block ls engine? Is it needed?
What bolts are you referencing specifically? I would not recommend it on head bolts, they usually come with threadlocker pre-applied
can you explain the rocker arms torquing down part
I explain it in the video. Is there something you are confused about?
Dose it matter if the engine is on tdc and align the mark wen doing ls headgasket?
Is it safe to torque then and all good to go?
TDC is not as important as I thought. Be careful not to strip the threads on any of the bolts, put them all in by hand and then torque them. Rotate the engine until some of the valves go down, and that will reduce the upward pressure on the adjacent lifters. Retorque, rotate the engine, retorque.
You want to make sure you torque each bolt with minimal upward pressure on them.
So when tightening the 90 and 70 degrees how strong does the torque wrench need to be able to read to accomplish this?
I recommend not using the torque wrench for this part so that you don't risk damaging it.
Good question you need a degree finder . First pass 22lb second pass 90 degrees final is 90 degrees except 9/10 are 50 degree passes.
How do you keep the degrees from falling into the cooling jets
Not sure what you mean
does it matter to do the degree torque specs didn’t see them in this video
Yes, I showed the written instructions and then performed them. You may want to rewatch the section installing the head bolts
Nice step by step my Dude. Just an observation, would you not go ahead and replace the lifters while the heads are off? These engines are known to drop a lifter or two.
It is definitely a good idea to replace them while everything is apart. I sent this head off to get resurfaced and valves replaced per customer request.
Thanks for the reply. I love your channel. I'm about to tackle this job shortly.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Please subscribe and share. This really isn't a bad job, just take your time.
Can you re-use the old intake manifold bolts?
You can try. I always replace them
Would you not clean out the head bolt holes on the block after cleaning the pistons etc? @Dude We Can Fix It
I usually hit them with a blast of compressed air to get any fluid and debris out before I finish cleaning. I may not have shown it in this video by accident
Wish a parts list and/or amazon link would have been provided. Great video though.
I can include that in the future
How do get the rear lower corner bolt on the passenger side in
You may need a wobble socket or preferably a U-joint adapter
Sir how do you know if rocker arm are still ok,thank you
I'm not familiar with the inspection process on rocker arms. You could bring them to the head shop to get them inspected
Which brand parts best choise Melling or enginetech?
I use Felpro gaskets
Good video which brand gaskets did you use?
I always use felpro
Ugh! How do you get.the exhaust manifold far enough away from the head to get the bolts in!? I have been struggling for days
I'm a little confused by your question. Perhaps you can loosen one of the exhaust donut clamps, a triangle shaped metal bracket with three bolts in it. Maybe that will allow you to wiggle one side of the exhaust manifold to spread them apart and use a floor jack underneath to lift them up.
@@dudewecanfixit I used a wooden wedge.
On your paper I noticed it has to turn it to 90° then there's a 70 under. Are they being turned to 90° followed by 70°? Confused on that part
Yes, I go through the entire process in the video.
Go to 14:30 and I explain the 70°
@@dudewecanfixitperfect, thank you so much!
No problem
Hey what about the plastic trays I have used brake clean it runs plastic
Are you talking about the intake manifold?
i have quick question is fel pro is good kit for gaskets?
Yes, fell pro is very good quality gaskets
@@dudewecanfixit what do you recommend with stage 2 cam full kit and I got gasket kit just wondering so I can be safe
Do you oil the threads on your new bolts?
I don't think that is recommended for head bolts. Did I show that in the video?
Do you know if torque spec is the same with l83’s ?
I'm not sure what I83s are
L83 head was developed specifically for the stock displacement 5.3L Direct Injected engine
Oh, that's cool.
I do not know if the specs are the same.
What head bolts brand did you use?
Im in the process of putting my heads back on as well.
I think the gaskets and head bolts are felpro
@@dudewecanfixit thanks man, i ordered the same ones i think their the felpro brand ES 72173 but seen comments of people snapping a bolt when torquing but looks like yours went in smoothly.
That's wild, I use felpro wherever possible. They're a good brand.
What a video much appreciated my friend
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much and God bless you
Do you have any more videos of the ls engine your playlist is private
The only videos we have on the ls at the moment is the ls head gasket replacement. Removal and install are the two most recent
The great debate: to use gasket sealer or not? Your thoughts?
Gasket sealer for which part? I showed how I do it
@@dudewecanfixit yes, Sir...I seen that. Why didnt you use gasket sealer on the paper gasket? I'm curious. Sir.
Which paper gasket? The head gasket is a multi layer metal crush gasket
Nice!! How's those Cracktech heads holding up? Eesh..
There great!
nicely Done ...Thank you
Our pleasure!
What gasket kit did you use?
Fel-pro
What happens if you put the head gasket on backwards where it says front what if you put it on where it’s at the back
The oil and coolant passages will not lineup correctly. Could cause flow problems and leaks… did you do that??
Great video , just wondered about lower head bolts closet to the firewall , I had trouble getting mine out due to hitting the firewall , finally removing them as I pulled the head out , noticed your bolts went straight in with no problem , do you ever run into that problem
I have not had issues getting bolts out. Are you working on a van?
No Yukon xl
I have not messed with a suburban or Yukon XL but they should be set up the same as a Tahoe or a truck. Same frame and body up front
I had the same issue on an 01 silverado.. Bolt came out with the head here as well.
I had the same clearance problem I had to take the head off with the rear bolts still in the holes. and will have to reinstall in the same fashion to get them back in.
How about a little block sanding with 220
You certainly can, just be sure to clean the block thoroughly so you don't leave any abrasives.
Good job my friend
Thanks!
thanks, other vids dont clean as good
Happy we were able to bring you a good video!
What happens if u forgot to blow the bolt holes out and torqued the head down
Debris could cause the bolt to not go down far enough and not allow sufficient pressure on the head. Most likely it'll be fine though, just a precaution
Thanks
On the torque spec for the rocker arms do i have to rotate the engine in order to torque all those down
Yes, otherwise some will have upward pressure while you are torquing them down.
The video was very helpful but what you forgot to tell people make sure they change the oil and you never put the top cover on before the engine runs and you make sure burp with thermostat open then you can put your engine cover on
Thank you for the well thought out response, you make some good points.
Needless to say the truck is running perfect
How can both the intake and the exhaust of one cylinder be in the down most positions at the same time? You should be torquing each rocker on its base circle.
They won't be down both at the same time. But you can torque them individually in the down most position
Where did you but your gaskets
O'Reilly's
Awesome thank you!
No worries!
I’m don’t understand the part when u torque the rocker arm , when you say it have to come press.
I'm not sure how to explain it different
Im kinda intimidated
I have white smoke coming out my exhausts and many people have said it might be the head gasket
So I will be attempting to swap them out myself
Ive done all the work on my truck since I've got it so I know her pretty good
I will be following your video step by step thank you and please wish me luck 🙏
Rent a compression tester and check your compression. I need to make a video for diagnosing a blown head gasket...
Wow that was amazing
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Where do I get the head gasket kit?
An auto parts store like O'Reilly's would have it
put a brass wire brush wheel in a drill and it cleans all the carbon off the pistons, and heads of any other surface without damaging the surface.
That's a great idea!
Can you re use head bolts ?
No, these are torque to yield, meaning you torque them until they stretch a little bit.
Good shit my boi
Thanks!
Other than just a few rookie things he is a great speaker. Sorry if I came off like a dick.
thank you for the video ...it's defenely one of the best I ever seen...what year is that truck? mine is a 2005
2003
Who sells good quality parts, head gasket kit, head bolts, and lifters for 2007 Silverado OHV without the AFM lifters
I usually use felpro head gaskets.
I'm not sure about the other parts. Do some research on a forum
yes!!!!
Absolutely!
Are new head bolts required?
Every single time
Don’t ruin a $500 job for $50 in bolts
nice
Thanks!
Wow you are really stretching those bolts
Which ones?
Odd question, how did you rotate the engine to move the springs?
With a socket on the crankshaft bolt. Locate the large pulley at the bottom center of the engine, that's the crankshaft pulley. There is a large bolt in the center of it that holds it to the crankshaft. Rotate that bolt clockwise to turn the engine.
@@dudewecanfixit thanks :)
I normally rotate clockwise because that is the normal direction of the engine. However, you can rotate the other way
Thanks!
🔥🔥🔥
How much for a job like this?
Where I'm at, $500 for the labor and $200 for the parts. Unless, you need to get the heads machined then I would add another $300 to get that done.