Nice Video and good to see it rescued. H30SR5 is the device marking for the IWH30N160R5. One other thing you shouldn't really use glass fuses for mains protection, you should use ceramic HRC type. The reason is that because the mains is low impedance when the fuse blows violently the metal vaporises and then forms a thin layer on the inside of the glass remaking the fuse but now it can't heat up as quickly so it then very often shatters the fuse completely so you end up with just the end caps left, very often it O/C tracks on the PCB instead of blowing the fuse a 2nd time. You do have the HRC fuse in the mains plug as a backup though. The Chinese are very bad at using glass fuses in mains circuits.
Thanks for that Richard. I've often seen the ceramic fuses in mains devices, but I've also seen glass ones too. I've taken note of what you said so I'll see if I've got any ceramic fuses for the future. Someone suggested a fuse socket, I've actually got some PCB mount ones but totally forgot about them 👍
@@BuyitFixit Yes same here so much stuff and forget about it and buy new. I remember the fuse thing from a lecture some time ago about the fuses and have before now found glass fuses shattered with bits all over the place. The problem when it's vaporised and reformed onto the glass the blowing current goes sky high.
@@BuyitFixit I seem to remember reading somewhere that there's a current limit for glass fuses, something like 6 amps, anything larger should be ceramic, smaller ones can be glass.
@@Ragnar8504 No. There are glass fuses upto 35A. The voltage (and hence total power) could me the limit, as things get more violent if power steps up. Current of 6A @12V is 72w which quite nothing vs currento on 230V which is 1380w.
After digging me out of several "holes" my heater unit failed. I did purchase a replacement but decided to investigate the failed unit. After rewatching your video opened it up and I too found some broken plastic bits inside. Found the big black inductor (under the heatsink) to have broken its connection onto the circuit board. Although the tool was not misused and bashed around, I think the weight of the inductor and perhaps a small knock resulted in the broken connection. Re-soldered and some hot melt glue applied along the inductor and time for a test. Rebuilding was a pain as everything is tight fit. Tested and now working fine, better than fine as the fan comes on as power supply is applied, it didn't do that before and it did look like the connector wasn't fully home during strip down. For the units dead on arrival, it could be they have been bashed around in transit with the momentum carried by the inductor causing failed connection? Hopefully the information helps others.
I repaired mine induction heater a month ago. It didn't look exactly as yours inside. The components that had failed was one IGBT-transistor and one surface mounted diode and the fuse of course. Replaced both IGBT's with IHW30N160R5 and the diode with STTH512B. Thanks for the video!
Hello . i have alsow a induction heater with similar problem to yours. do you know where the diod was placed on the mainbord? i think i can have the same board as you
@@pehrnilsson2369 There are two identical surface mount diodes and they sit next to each other. I had to unsolder the large inductor to access the diodes as I remember.
I really enjoy your videos. You do troubleshooting pretty much the same way that I have done it for many, many years! I think it is terrible that so many people just throw things out and buy a new one. It is such a waste! I have found that most of the repairs that i have done were just a case of bad solder joints! And other repairs were just a matter of finding the failed component and replacing it for a small fraction of what a new unit would cost! It's nice to see that you have the patience to go through the troubleshooting process. Thank you for sharing what you do!
Thank you Michael 👍had quite a few dry joints over the years on things, and as you rightly say it's usually just 1 failed component which costs pennies 🙂
I've got 1 of these... by the sounds of it my fan isn't working, I will need to have a look at it. 3 jobs so far - 2 successes. Crankshaft pulley bolt, tried to remove using various methods, ending up with 4ft lever - no chance, put this tool onto it and it came of a doddle. Paid for itself right there! The job that bet it eventually needed grinding off, so not a fault with the tool, it worked, the job just needed more drastic mechanical means. Thanks for putting up the video.
Thanks for that and commenting 👍it could also be that the fan only kicks in when it gets to a certain temperature and the one I repaired still has a fault (fan on when it shouldn't be) or it could be that they changed the design at some point 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit Eventually my unit died, purchased another and can confirm the fan comes on with mains power applied. I will post the results of the autopsy on the "failed" unit. But good news, the fan also comes on when power applied to the Ex "failed " unit now.
Great video. I got a similar one last year. It did the job I bought it for, but died not long after on a lesser importance job. The EBay seller sent me a replacement after I took photos of it with the wires cut off inside. I always intended trying to fix it but wasn't sure where to start. I'll compare it and see if the dead components are similar. If so, you've given me the confidence to give it a go. Thanks!
Happy new year Thanks for another great fix. Please can you advise is a 80 watt thermostatically adjustable soldering iron perfect or to much for smd work please? Thanks
Great video. I have this exact device, and yes, it is not built especially well, but for the money, it works wonderfully. I've removed rusty suspension bolts from my car that has lived 250,000 miles in harsh rust-belt conditions, and the induction heater gets bolts hot/loose within a minute or so.
Just to add my 2c, The fuse used is porcelain with a mica filling, the reason for that is that when it blows it will not send glass every where, Might be wise to replace it with the same fuse if you can.... If you are behind it and it fails again that could mean a piece of shrapnel heading toward you. Good repair, these last two have made you work for it though.
Thanks 👍yes I thought about the fuse being glass, but it's inside the plastic so I'm not too worried. Yes the last couple of repairs have been a little more involved, guess you have to take the rough with the smooth so they say...
These have many uses including heating a carbon crucible full of precious metal. The advantage with steel is that the HF field takes steel to dull red but the the magnetics of the steel changes so it doesn't burn away. Probably the principal cause of failure is trying one out without the coil connected.
An interesting device. I'm recognising a design and build that's similar in many ways to those huge led torches that were for sale a few years back - they could burn things. Same case, same wiring from the mains, same label design etc. I think both made in the same factory.
Thanks for this video. I was humming and hawing about buying this exact model, but the reviews and your video has convinced me to go for the more well known brands
Useful tool as long as you have easy access to the bolt , otherwise a bit of a wast of space . Maybe the legs on the heating part could be bent a little but not a lot
Lol! Yes, it does get rather hot my friend 😆 I was afraid for you, playing with that branding iron , that one is rather weak, which is good. I enjoy your video's 🐺
Haha, I bid on the same item, I was curious to see if I could fix the problem. But not as curious as you obviously (since you won the item). :) Good job.
I have a new ultrasonic parts cleaner and right out of box the heater element didn’t work. I had the unit several months before I had a need to use it and couldn’t get any
hi i think you should replace the igbt driver with the correct part because the thermal switch is for 75c and that is within the operating temperature of the original part but it is outside the operating range for the part you fitted and could fail before the over temperature activates
Good recovery from a substantial fault. The connections at the metal blocks end looked odd, but maybe an illusion. Although the wires were in plastic tubes the screws securing the cables didn't look to be insulated from the blocks. The IC should be fine though you may want to bring any tractors indoors before working with any nuts (especially up t'north).
Thanks 👍yes it's getting bloody cold up here now. We lost mains and internet yesterday. I was recording a video at the time so I might leave that bit in it.
4:37 hidden screws because hi volts maybe😂 Cheers 👍 Looks suspiciously like a mower engine coil in right hand😊 Another edit Excellent hi volts film on royal institute channel a few days ago. Thunderstruck on Tesla coil was brilliant.😅
Cool device and nice fix. I've seen this kind of inductive heater at South Main Auto Repair channel, plenty of rusty cars and seized bolts in Avoca, New York, and of course everywhere, where winter is snowy and road salt is used :)
Could be junk components, but I noticed the replacement IGBT's are marked 1.2KV. Operating without a heating coil attached could generate a very high voltage kickback from the inductor (output transformer) into the IGBT's causing both of them to short then also feedback enough voltage to kill the driver and the diodes which then killed the onboard fuse. I might be wrong but based on people reporting it works a few times the dies with component failure, I would also think there is in normal use a large voltage kickback that is not compensated for from the inductors that fatigues the IGBT's until they eventually fail.
I've never seen one of those before , nor have I heard my mechanic buddies talk about them ... I will pose that question on my next live stream , BTW I got my microscope setup and going finally , pretty neat as to what I've done to a monitor stand that looks like a Amscope arm , I showed it off on my chsnnel ..
Mike knows his stuff that's for sure. But also, he knows that you don't solder a good fuse over the top of a blown one. Same as you don't solder a good capacitor over one that's failed.
I wonder how much warmer the bolt would have looked if it had a coat of something with a high emissivity. Maybe you could deposit some soot on it from a match or a candle?
@BuyitFixit thks, I have been really meticulous, due to it high draw I am of the belief burn out is more likely with an inferior one. I would love for you to give a suggestion.
When you say, "Hi", You sound exactly like Brian, the Dane, who presents the Brainiac channel which is mostly about magnets. Just as I thought, Jordies do speak some sort of Scandinavian😂
I've managed to blow up a stand alone kitchen induction hob in creative way... Had 2 stacked up and used top one, bottom one blows the fuse box braker soon as it's plugged in now, assume there has been back induction into bottom hob that's fried it, any interest for a vid?
Great Channel with analytical fault finding method. I love the channel. I would like to ask you with what criteria do you choose what faulty device to buy from ebay? kind regards
@ioannisbalouktsis962 ''faulty', or 'broken' or 'spares' or 'please read' in the category you are interested in, theres also a tick box under condition for 'parts or not working '
My best guess is someone hit the button without a coil attached. Zvs drivers don't survive being unloaded because they wont resonate and it will just keep the mosfets on and burn them up instantly. Thats an interesting design since most zvs drivers are made to work at 12-48 volts but this one runs on rectified mains and uses a step down transformer on the output. I may have to try making a zvs inspired by that one since it looks like they used a common tv flyback core which i got a few of.
@@jjhack3r they arent ZVS, theyre a resonant half-bridge. bit going on there, current sensing etc. ZVS doesnt like being unloaded as the work coil is invariably the tank coil. if you do some fiddling with matching transformers, can run them at 200V or higher (1200v rated FETs)... cant go too high as the resonant rise is around 3X the supply... tap the secondary, and with a combination of tap position and work coil turns, can "tune" them in to keep current within limits...
0-70C is the old commercial temperature range, -40 to 85 is the new industrial temp range (the old industrial range was -25 to 85) so possibly new old stock depending on where you bought it.
extended Industrial (-40 +85) came in at the time when mil-spec components where dying off. the industrial temp range was extended to pick up the mil-spec components. Which was a real pain as the mil-spec parts came with reliability data which was a great help calculating Mean Time before failure (MTBF's) of your product. You had to stick a wet finger in the air for the extended industrial parts and de-rate the hell out of them.
I think you're only allowed to switch it off via the switch, after which the fan keeps on running until the temperature is low enough. That is what the thermostat might be for. The fan keeps on running until the temperature drops below 75 degrees. You are only allowed to unplug the device after the fan stops running. Welders also work like this. If you just unplug the power cord,the MOSFETs might burn, because the fan can not remove the residual heat. I am just guessing this works like a small welder.
A welder is also a device that sends a huge current through a wire. If you unplug them before letting them cool down they break. You can safely unplug the power cord as soon as the fan stops running.
Residual heat would never damage this unit, its either on and heating up or off and cooling down. Its never going to get hotter after its been turned off. The thermostat probably shuts off the unit after the heatsink hits 75C.
@@jaro6985 but when it's on it has the fan on because it needs it to keep a cap on the heat. if the fans turned off as soon as the device stopped being used, then the temps would quickly rise past operational temps
In a welder the MOSFETs are more hot than the heatsink during normal operation. If you unplug the power cord suddenly the temperature of the heatsink will go up, because there is no airflow in the device, This makes the MOSFETs overheat as they can no longer release their heat. Ceramic infrared electric cookers with built in fan have the same problem, their thermal fuse will blow when you suddenly unplug them via the power cord.
Could operating it without a heater coil installed have caused this fault? Maybe saturated the output transformer and caused excessive current flow through the MOSFETs. I'd have thought it would have been designed to protect against this though.
My Brother has a Hot Rod but it has a V8 Engine in it, probably gets pretty hot in places/ BTW, the House behind me is up for sale if you fancy moving a bit closer to me, just saying is all 🙂
You need to be careful with the coil. I noticed you touched your cell and melted the edge there for a bit...Hope it did not mess up your phone screen. But great job. You know your stuff.
This made me smile: I had an induction bolt heater and it had nothing in it but a big, heavy transformer, a big selenium rectifier, a coil and a condenser in the box. It somehow worked just fine without any other "electronics." 🙂
I have one with same look except it is North American 120V and different brand name. The fan don't come on when I plug it in. The fan only comes on when the button is push.
The ones I have seen working heat nuts and bolts to "red/orange hot" . ..even though they were full size nuts holding down a cylinder head ....... the temperatures in the video were barely above boiling point ....... I think there remains a problem yet to be solved!
Nice video thank you I’m trying to repair a Sykes Pickavant model but can’t find the component that’s broken can you help? The component is a Orange drop capacitor CDE773P319. 373k550VAC. 1314. Thank you
Hi, from the markings looks like a 37nf 550V polypropylene film capacitor. I did have a quick look but couldn't find the exact one. You could see if you can find one by a different manufacturer of the same capacitance with a higher voltage perhaps? 600V?
@@Alanw74 I can't remember the cost of the parts exactly but I'd guess they were around £20-25. I don't think these are designed very well at this one failed again after a few uses...
@@BuyitFixit have you looked up what the new problem is? i have a similar induktion heater that you have .and is trying to fix it . but my mainboard is not look exactly same as yours . but its similar. do you know the level of the output from the small ic that is drive the gate on the igbts? mvh pehr
That whole thing looks bit over-engineered to me 😄 But nice to see you got the balls to hold the bolt by hand when having no idea how fast it will heat up 🤣
The thing I find most difficult is ordering replacement parts, when the data sheet shows multiples of the same part. Along with obsolescence, it gets quite confusing.
A lot of the multiples of the same part are just usually quantities or if it is on a reel or tape. I've found that sometimes ICs are exactly the same but with different numbers from different manufacturers, like on the Milwaukee radio I repaired some time ago. Two completely different part numbers and manufacturers, but the same pin out and functionality.
Honestly, when I saw the video thumb nail I thought it looked like some sort of cattle prod and I did momentarily think you're moving towards a bit of 'niche audience'. Thank F I watched it! Awesome job as always Mick, great work! I have a mate that owns his own garage and he has a Snap On version of one of these. For him it's a really cool tool that comes out of the cupboard 2 or 3 times a year and when it does, it's worth every penny.
I've always liked fluke meters but they are usually more expensive. If you get a budget meter get one that is auto ranging as they are a lot easier to use than the type you have to manually select the voltage or resistance range.
The fuse is filled with sand it is designed to prevent any connection forming when it blows...By putting a glass fuse in place you circumvented a safety feature.
Thanks 👍 I'm a little of both. I often have my hands covered in oil. My wifes got a discovery 4. Had the body off it 3 times so far, EGR pipes blown, then the turbo's went. Recently had my ML320 up on my ramp as it had the oil cooler problem (after we replaced the main crankshaft seal as we thought it was that). Bloody cars.. .😂😂😂
Just be aware that there are v similar versions out there where the pcb does have ic's other than the gate driver. Also the markings on those ic's are obfuscated. I'm having fun trying to repair one at the moment.
Personally I don't like these glass fuses on a mains equipment. The breaking capacity of these is barely 20A at the 240VAC, way bellow the short circuit fault current. That means those are not rated to break the current safely at all, the arc just makes them explode and jump onto something else. Better use the ceramic ones, the breaking capacity of those is 1500A, the cord resistance and mains impedance usually keeps the current within that limit.
Unfortunately I think that may be due to the build quality. Some of the previews on Amazon said things like it was dead out of the box or failed after a couple of uses.
@@BuyitFixit probably because it's using a "cheap" version of an inductive heater driver, like ZVS'es - they fail when you "turn them on incorrectly". The components you replaced are the common culprits... The H-Bridge "stalls" and shorts everything.
@@ianhelsbyservices Sadly, no. I cannot suggest a quality inductor driver - those are what usually makes or breaks the retail available "premium" induction heaters. The only "swappable" component is the coil and capacitors. The issue is that quality inductor drivers are usually expensive due to the nature of their requirements. They have 1. sensitive chips to detect the "frequency response" of the coil for auto-tuning, 2. filters to save it from self-destructing, 3. high-amperage, high-speed-switching mosfets - which themselves are already expensive, 4. Bootstrap circuitry - and all of that works mostly specific to the design of the coil (diameter/inductance/thickness/impedance). This is why most people use ZVS drivers as they're "cheaper" than the alternative and require essentially no tuning. But any issues with the power supply or the coil will instantly destroy everything due to transistor failure - the H bridge becomes a full short. Bye bye traces, bye bye transistors, and bye bye power supply sometimes. Most hobbyists use screw terminals for the transistors for quick swapping :')
I have two none work. Bought from China AliExpress first worked a couple of days. And heats up bolts and nuts so they turn RED and come off as easily as possible. Changed steering knuckle shock absorbers on a Nissan Micra. And were stuck. Stopped working. My son who is skilled in soldering wondered if there was anyone who had never soldered before as it was very amateurishly done a lot of cold soldering. Complained and got a new one under warranty. Worked for an hour or so and appeared to be the "same" person who made this. The fuse that was soldered on had tripped removed it and soldered on the brackets to be able to change the fuse easily. But it doesn't work and my knowledge of troubleshooting components "ended" when I replaced the fuse holder. Tried to talk my son into troubleshooting. But the answer was don't even want to see the "shit" again.🤭 The tool itself is and the principle of how it works is absolutely superb, can be accessed in tight places as there are different variants of the "spirals" and can be bent into shape. AND you only heat that part "the bolt" and since it is fast, the heat does not spread to, for example, rubber bushings.
I don't think that they are very reliable. I saw a few comments on Amazon saying similar to what you just said. At least if you or your son ever wanted to have a go at fixing it, this video should give you a good idea what to check.
@@BuyitFixit T Thanks❗ Yes I will absolutely use your troubleshooting on my devices. Can guarantee that the son will look like this😲🤥. If I find similar faults and ask him to help me replace them, there is a large company Elfa in Sweden that has components. I can handle a multimeter pretty well. Has a short past as a car mechanic on new cars in the mid 70s (Sweden) General agent for Mercedes but also Audi and Simca😬 On a brand new Simca 1100 (similar to a wv Golf) the high beam switch did not work. I debugged with a "test lamp" From the switch on the steering column to the lamp, the cable changed color 4 TIMES and in one of the "joints" the cables did not fit together. That's when my preconceived notions about French car manufacturers turned out to be correct, at least in the 70s. I will get back with the results. And above all you have a new subscriber just the right kind of topic that interests me.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks❗ Yes I will absolutely use your troubleshooting on my devices. Can guarantee that the son will look like this😲🤥. If I find similar faults and ask him to help me replace them, there is a large company Elfa in Sweden that has components. I can handle a multimeter pretty well. Has a short past as a car mechanic on new cars in the mid 70s (Sweden) General agent for Mercedes but also Audi and Simca😬 On a brand new Simca 1100 (similar to a wv Golf) the high beam switch did not work. I debugged with a "test lamp" From the switch on the steering column to the lamp, the cable changed color 4 TIMES and in one of the "joints" the cables did not fit together. That's when my preconceived notions about French car manufacturers turned out to be correct, at least in the 70s. I will get back with the results. And above all you have a new subscriber just the right kind of topic that interests me.
I think they used a ceramic fuse because glass fuses can explode when they blow. I probably should have used a ceramic one, but I didn't have one at the time.
The fact that they solder tinned the high current output wires that are secured by screws indicates some dubious design. NEVER solder tin wires that will be secured by screw/clamp connections. TBH I'd replace as much as possible on something like this even if it measures OK it could have been badly stressed and fail not long after the repair and most of those components are cheap.
@@BuyitFixit Induction heaters are actually quite hard to design in a way that they don't self destruct, a common issue is them not starting up properly and latching on, the Cheap Chinese ones that work of a DC supply must have a decent high current supply, a sluggish supply often leads to latchup and burn out, also as others have said unplugging them without giving them sufficient time to cool might be an issue.
Nice Video and good to see it rescued.
H30SR5 is the device marking for the IWH30N160R5.
One other thing you shouldn't really use glass fuses for mains protection, you should use ceramic HRC type.
The reason is that because the mains is low impedance when the fuse blows violently the metal vaporises and then forms a thin layer on the inside of the glass remaking the fuse but now it can't heat up as quickly so it then very often shatters the fuse completely so you end up with just the end caps left, very often it O/C tracks on the PCB instead of blowing the fuse a 2nd time.
You do have the HRC fuse in the mains plug as a backup though.
The Chinese are very bad at using glass fuses in mains circuits.
Thanks for that Richard. I've often seen the ceramic fuses in mains devices, but I've also seen glass ones too. I've taken note of what you said so I'll see if I've got any ceramic fuses for the future. Someone suggested a fuse socket, I've actually got some PCB mount ones but totally forgot about them 👍
@@BuyitFixit Yes same here so much stuff and forget about it and buy new.
I remember the fuse thing from a lecture some time ago about the fuses and have before now found glass fuses shattered with bits all over the place.
The problem when it's vaporised and reformed onto the glass the blowing current goes sky high.
@@BuyitFixit I seem to remember reading somewhere that there's a current limit for glass fuses, something like 6 amps, anything larger should be ceramic, smaller ones can be glass.
@@Ragnar8504 No. There are glass fuses upto 35A. The voltage (and hence total power) could me the limit, as things get more violent if power steps up. Current of 6A @12V is 72w which quite nothing vs currento on 230V which is 1380w.
@@arva1kes Yes, the text I remember was definitely about European mains voltage, which is a lot of energy at 6 A.
After digging me out of several "holes" my heater unit failed. I did purchase a replacement but decided to investigate the failed unit. After rewatching your video opened it up and I too found some broken plastic bits inside. Found the big black inductor (under the heatsink) to have broken its connection onto the circuit board. Although the tool was not misused and bashed around, I think the weight of the inductor and perhaps a small knock resulted in the broken connection. Re-soldered and some hot melt glue applied along the inductor and time for a test. Rebuilding was a pain as everything is tight fit. Tested and now working fine, better than fine as the fan comes on as power supply is applied, it didn't do that before and it did look like the connector wasn't fully home during strip down. For the units dead on arrival, it could be they have been bashed around in transit with the momentum carried by the inductor causing failed connection? Hopefully the information helps others.
Thank you for sharing this 👍🙂
th-cam.com/video/i95Q_FVCeEY/w-d-xo.html
I repaired mine induction heater a month ago. It didn't look exactly as yours inside. The components that had failed was one IGBT-transistor and one surface mounted diode and
the fuse of course. Replaced both IGBT's with IHW30N160R5 and the diode with STTH512B. Thanks for the video!
Thanks 👍and well done on repairing yours too 🙂👍
Hello . i have alsow a induction heater with similar problem to yours. do you know where the diod was placed on the mainbord? i think i can have the same board as you
@@pehrnilsson2369 There are two identical surface mount diodes and they sit next to each other. I had to unsolder the large inductor to access the diodes as I remember.
I really enjoy your videos. You do troubleshooting pretty much the same way that I have done it for many, many years! I think it is terrible that so many people just throw things out and buy a new one. It is such a waste! I have found that most of the repairs that i have done were just a case of bad solder joints! And other repairs were just a matter of finding the failed component and replacing it for a small fraction of what a new unit would cost! It's nice to see that you have the patience to go through the troubleshooting process. Thank you for sharing what you do!
Thank you Michael 👍had quite a few dry joints over the years on things, and as you rightly say it's usually just 1 failed component which costs pennies 🙂
I've got 1 of these... by the sounds of it my fan isn't working, I will need to have a look at it.
3 jobs so far - 2 successes. Crankshaft pulley bolt, tried to remove using various methods, ending up with 4ft lever - no chance, put this tool onto it and it came of a doddle. Paid for itself right there! The job that bet it eventually needed grinding off, so not a fault with the tool, it worked, the job just needed more drastic mechanical means. Thanks for putting up the video.
Thanks for that and commenting 👍it could also be that the fan only kicks in when it gets to a certain temperature and the one I repaired still has a fault (fan on when it shouldn't be) or it could be that they changed the design at some point 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit Eventually my unit died, purchased another and can confirm the fan comes on with mains power applied. I will post the results of the autopsy on the "failed" unit. But good news, the fan also comes on when power applied to the Ex "failed " unit now.
Awesome, was hoping to see the bolt glow but then why risk ya bench !!....cheers.
Thanks AndyMouse, yes my thoughts exactly 👍
Great video. I got a similar one last year. It did the job I bought it for, but died not long after on a lesser importance job. The EBay seller sent me a replacement after I took photos of it with the wires cut off inside. I always intended trying to fix it but wasn't sure where to start. I'll compare it and see if the dead components are similar. If so, you've given me the confidence to give it a go. Thanks!
Thanks Nigel, hopefully it's the same if not very similar 🤞
I think you touched your phone with the coil in the last frame. Ouch!
Good repair
Thanks👍, phone is fine. The coil was above it 🙂
I saw Andrew Camarata use one of these of some huge bolts on a piece of heavy equipment. That thing looks like it works spectacular.
Interesting. I haven't used it yet, but there was quite a few mixed reviews on Amazon.
Happy new year
Thanks for another great fix.
Please can you advise is a 80 watt thermostatically adjustable soldering iron perfect or to much for smd work please?
Thanks
Happy new year to you too! It should be fine (I'm no expert), but it would depend on the size of the tips. I use an Aixun T3A.
Great video. I have this exact device, and yes, it is not built especially well, but for the money, it works wonderfully. I've removed rusty suspension bolts from my car that has lived 250,000 miles in harsh rust-belt conditions, and the induction heater gets bolts hot/loose within a minute or so.
Thanks👍and thanks for sharing.
Great video mate and excellent troubleshooting skills.👍👍
Thanks Jacques 👍
Genial, cambien los dos transistores IGBT y el fusible ceramico y volvio a la vida. Excelente video
Gracias 👍
Just to add my 2c, The fuse used is porcelain with a mica filling, the reason for that is that when it blows it will not send glass every where, Might be wise to replace it with the same fuse if you can.... If you are behind it and it fails again that could mean a piece of shrapnel heading toward you. Good repair, these last two have made you work for it though.
Thanks 👍yes I thought about the fuse being glass, but it's inside the plastic so I'm not too worried. Yes the last couple of repairs have been a little more involved, guess you have to take the rough with the smooth so they say...
These have many uses including heating a carbon crucible full of precious metal. The advantage with steel is that the HF field takes steel to dull red but the the magnetics of the steel changes so it doesn't burn away. Probably the principal cause of failure is trying one out without the coil connected.
Thanks for that 👍
@32:26 - That cap is a 1700 volt cap. That's a one-a spicy meat-a ball. Give you one hell of a bounce.
Yes, it would probably give a nasty nip..
Hot Rod, Seized Nut, Exploding over the desk what type of video did i just watch 😂
😂😂😂😂😂
Brilliant Fix Mick as always thanks for the valuable lesson 😊
Thanks Cucumber Man 👍Glad you enjoyed it 🙂👍
An interesting device. I'm recognising a design and build that's similar in many ways to those huge led torches that were for sale a few years back - they could burn things. Same case, same wiring from the mains, same label design etc. I think both made in the same factory.
Interesting, don't think I came across those. Thanks for commenting 👍
Top marks mate! Love the way you diagnosed component.
Thanks 👍
I've seen a hot rod used on a seized exhaust manifold bolt and it allowed it to be removed with ease. Much more localized heat than a torch.
I'm sure I'll be using it on things like that. I've encountered plenty a seized nut / bolt 😂😂😂👍
Lovely fuse bodge.
😂😂yes, I wasn't paying £5 for one with wires on, when I've got a box full of normal ones 😂
£5 for a single fuse is f-ing insane. Absolute bloody rip off. i would have just cut off the original fuse and soldered the wires to the new fuse.
Hey, super Fix and repair👍👍👍
You can easily tested the inductive heater with your finger who carry the ring. 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks 👍Yes 😂😂😂😂
I like the sticker, no pacemakers 😀
😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for this video. I was humming and hawing about buying this exact model, but the reviews and your video has convinced me to go for the more well known brands
A very wise decision imho 👍
The diodes appear to have already been lifted at least one time, judging by the dull granular appearance of their solder connections.
Good repair!
Thanks 👍
Useful tool as long as you have easy access to the bolt , otherwise a bit of a wast of space . Maybe the legs on the heating part could be bent a little but not a lot
You get a plain straight loop which you can bend into a coil to suit your situation 🙂👍
The Ksd 01f is a normally open fuse you probably have worked it out now however I love your work you do very enjoyable
Thanks👍, yes it's a thermostat so I guess it resets once the temp drops below 75c
Nice video, thank you. But it did leave me wondering just how hot it could get the bolt.
I've had one glowing red with it, but I didn't fancy it on my desk at the time 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit Ah! Not going for the big Clive desk ambience then!
Lol! Yes, it does get rather hot my friend 😆 I was afraid for you, playing with that branding iron , that one is rather weak, which is good. I enjoy your video's 🐺
Thanks👍it can get the bolt glowing red from other videos I've seen, but I didn't fancy a glowing bolt on my desk 😂😂
Lol! I was also afraid for your desk 🙂
Haha, I bid on the same item, I was curious to see if I could fix the problem. But not as curious as you obviously (since you won the item). :) Good job.
Thanks 👍Damn, I might have gotten it cheaper 😂😂😂👍
I have a new ultrasonic parts cleaner and right out of box the heater element didn’t work. I had the unit several months before I had a need to use it and couldn’t get any
hi i think you should replace the igbt driver with the correct part because the thermal switch is for 75c and that is within the operating temperature of the original part but it is outside the operating range for the part you fitted and could fail before the over temperature activates
Perhaps, I did think of it, but it's only 5 degrees and it will have a tolerance anyway.
Would this be good for warming up nuts on a cold, freezing day?
😂😂😂
Great video.
First time I’ve seen your videos!
Sounds like your from the Morpeth track?
Used to be from South Shields, then Durham, and now Cumbria 😂😂👍
did you burn your camera screen with the hotrod tool at the end of the video 43:13
No lol, the overhead camera makes it look closer. It was about 1" above it.
It made me laugh, when you first put the coil heater in, I thought, that would be a bugger to solder !
😂😂😂😂👍
Good recovery from a substantial fault. The connections at the metal blocks end looked odd, but maybe an illusion. Although the wires were in plastic tubes the screws securing the cables didn't look to be insulated from the blocks. The IC should be fine though you may want to bring any tractors indoors before working with any nuts (especially up t'north).
Thanks 👍yes it's getting bloody cold up here now. We lost mains and internet yesterday. I was recording a video at the time so I might leave that bit in it.
The old fuse looks like it's the sort with removable slide on/off end caps to make it a through hole part. Just in case you'd like a neater job 🙂
Thanks, I had seen those before but wasn't sure if they were spot welded on. I'm more about functional than cosmetics😂😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixithi,
After your power loss, are you thinking of adding battery storage to your solar PV system?
Interesting solution to the fuses. I'm assuming you didn't have a fuse holder to hand?
Good idea👍, I didn't think about that a the time...
4:37 hidden screws because hi volts maybe😂
Cheers 👍
Looks suspiciously like a mower engine coil in right hand😊
Another edit
Excellent hi volts film on royal institute channel a few days ago.
Thunderstruck on Tesla coil was brilliant.😅
Thanks 👍
great video just out of interest how do you find all of the things you fix?
Just searching on Ebay for things with keywords like faulty or please read or ticking the condition as for parts or not working..
I look forward to your vids Mick. Really well explained how components work.👍👍
Thanks Peter 👍
Cool device and nice fix. I've seen this kind of inductive heater at South Main Auto Repair channel, plenty of rusty cars and seized bolts in Avoca, New York, and of course everywhere, where winter is snowy and road salt is used :)
Thanks 👍yes I've encountered quite a few seized belts in the past 😂😂😂
Could be junk components, but I noticed the replacement IGBT's are marked 1.2KV. Operating without a heating coil attached could generate a very high voltage kickback from the inductor (output transformer) into the IGBT's causing both of them to short then also feedback enough voltage to kill the driver and the diodes which then killed the onboard fuse. I might be wrong but based on people reporting it works a few times the dies with component failure, I would also think there is in normal use a large voltage kickback that is not compensated for from the inductors that fatigues the IGBT's until they eventually fail.
I've never seen one of those before , nor have I heard my mechanic buddies talk about them ... I will pose that question on my next live stream , BTW I got my microscope setup and going finally , pretty neat as to what I've done to a monitor stand that looks like a Amscope arm , I showed it off on my chsnnel ..
Nice. I'll have to have a look 👍
Mike knows his stuff that's for sure. But also, he knows that you don't solder a good fuse over the top of a blown one. Same as you don't solder a good capacitor over one that's failed.
For this circuit he would have to order a new part there’s literally no point it does the same job as if it was done properly
Nice tool 👍
Hopefully you mean the induction wand 😊🤣😂😂😂
Hopefully you mean the induction wand 😊🤣😂😂😂
Do you have a link to the replacement IC and components that you used so that I can purchase them and try to fix my unit thanks!
Interesting item and a great video Mick.
Thanks Vince 👍
I wonder how much warmer the bolt would have looked if it had a coat of something with a high emissivity. Maybe you could deposit some soot on it from a match or a candle?
You can make it glow red, but I didn't fancy a glowing red bolt dropping onto my desk 😂😂😂
Great, really a job. I am in the market to purchase a one of these bad boy.
I'm not sure if I'd recommend this make and model as I'm not sure of the reliability long term.
@BuyitFixit thks, I have been really meticulous, due to it high draw I am of the belief burn out is more likely with an inferior one. I would love for you to give a suggestion.
I'm not so sure, as I've not got experience of any others. I'd try and stick with a known brand and not something generic like this one.
When you say, "Hi", You sound exactly like Brian, the Dane, who presents the Brainiac channel which is mostly about magnets. Just as I thought, Jordies do speak some sort of Scandinavian😂
Lol 😂😂 *Geordies 😉
I've managed to blow up a stand alone kitchen induction hob in creative way... Had 2 stacked up and used top one, bottom one blows the fuse box braker soon as it's plugged in now, assume there has been back induction into bottom hob that's fried it, any interest for a vid?
Very creative! It's probably fried most of the electronics I'd think.
Great Channel with analytical fault finding method. I love the channel. I would like to ask you with what criteria do you choose what faulty device to buy from ebay?
kind regards
Thanks 👍 I just look for faulty stuff that looks unusual or might be interesting to repair...
@@BuyitFixit At the search field of ebay what do you write?
thanks in advance
kind regards
Ioannis Balouktsis
@ioannisbalouktsis962 ''faulty', or 'broken' or 'spares' or 'please read' in the category you are interested in, theres also a tick box under condition for 'parts or not working '
My best guess is someone hit the button without a coil attached. Zvs drivers don't survive being unloaded because they wont resonate and it will just keep the mosfets on and burn them up instantly. Thats an interesting design since most zvs drivers are made to work at 12-48 volts but this one runs on rectified mains and uses a step down transformer on the output. I may have to try making a zvs inspired by that one since it looks like they used a common tv flyback core which i got a few of.
I gotta say, good job btw. I learned a few things too.. lol I never really thought of diodes as common failure points.
Thanks 👍
@@jjhack3r they arent ZVS, theyre a resonant half-bridge. bit going on there, current sensing etc.
ZVS doesnt like being unloaded as the work coil is invariably the tank coil.
if you do some fiddling with matching transformers, can run them at 200V or higher (1200v rated FETs)... cant go too high as the resonant rise is around 3X the supply...
tap the secondary, and with a combination of tap position and work coil turns, can "tune" them in to keep current within limits...
0-70C is the old commercial temperature range, -40 to 85 is the new industrial temp range (the old industrial range was -25 to 85) so possibly new old stock depending on where you bought it.
Interesting, thanks for that 👍
extended Industrial (-40 +85) came in at the time when mil-spec components where dying off. the industrial temp range was extended to pick up the mil-spec components. Which was a real pain as the mil-spec parts came with reliability data which was a great help calculating Mean Time before failure (MTBF's) of your product. You had to stick a wet finger in the air for the extended industrial parts and de-rate the hell out of them.
I think you're only allowed to switch it off via the switch, after which the fan keeps on running until the temperature is low enough. That is what the thermostat might be for. The fan keeps on running until the temperature drops below 75 degrees. You are only allowed to unplug the device after the fan stops running. Welders also work like this. If you just unplug the power cord,the MOSFETs might burn, because the fan can not remove the residual heat. I am just guessing this works like a small welder.
A welder is also a device that sends a huge current through a wire. If you unplug them before letting them cool down they break. You can safely unplug the power cord as soon as the fan stops running.
The fan seems to be on all of the time, although I've not used it yet, but it was on constantly when I powered it up on the bench.
Residual heat would never damage this unit, its either on and heating up or off and cooling down. Its never going to get hotter after its been turned off. The thermostat probably shuts off the unit after the heatsink hits 75C.
@@jaro6985 but when it's on it has the fan on because it needs it to keep a cap on the heat. if the fans turned off as soon as the device stopped being used, then the temps would quickly rise past operational temps
In a welder the MOSFETs are more hot than the heatsink during normal operation. If you unplug the power cord suddenly the temperature of the heatsink will go up, because there is no airflow in the device, This makes the MOSFETs overheat as they can no longer release their heat. Ceramic infrared electric cookers with built in fan have the same problem, their thermal fuse will blow when you suddenly unplug them via the power cord.
ive fixed my sons exactly the same,! was diode rectifier failed ,, common, and 2 transistors, ive upgraded his better uk transistors,
Nice 👍Well done. I checked the bridge in this because I've had them taken out in the past when transistors or mosfets fail.
Could operating it without a heater coil installed have caused this fault? Maybe saturated the output transformer and caused excessive current flow through the MOSFETs. I'd have thought it would have been designed to protect against this though.
Possibly, I had been thinking the same.
My Brother has a Hot Rod but it has a V8 Engine in it, probably gets pretty hot in places/ BTW, the House behind me is up for sale if you fancy moving a bit closer to me, just saying is all 🙂
Nice 😂😂😂😂
Mines took a dump yesterday. I read on the reviews they go bad. I used mine just 5 it 6 times.
Yes, I think this isn't a good product.
You'll need a lot more than 110c to remove siezed bolt, how hot will it go?
Apparently it will make them glow red, I saw a video of one in use, but I didn't really fancy a glowing red bit of metal on my desk 😂😂😂😂👍
You need to be careful with the coil. I noticed you touched your cell and melted the edge there for a bit...Hope it did not mess up your phone screen. But great job. You know your stuff.
Thanks👍, it was above the phone, and it's a metal surround. Probably just the camera angle.
Any chance you can provid links to the parts you replaced?
It was a while ago, I think I ordered most of the parts from Digikey.
Nice fix! Did you burn your phone at the end??
Thanks 👍No the coil cools fairly quickly and was above the screen by about an inch or so, it looks closer from the view of the overhead camera 🙂
I love how stuff comes brand new unused and efffed up out the factory these days.
Yes, I think there's a design issue with these units as on the reviews on Amazon a few people mentioned that it blew up after the 1st or second use!
they have FUSES in the plugs in teh EU?
I'm not sure, I'm in the UK 😂
This made me smile: I had an induction bolt heater and it had nothing in it but a big, heavy transformer, a big selenium rectifier, a coil and a condenser in the box. It somehow worked just fine without any other "electronics." 🙂
I have one with same look except it is North American 120V and different brand name. The fan don't come on when I plug it in. The fan only comes on when the button is push.
Perhaps a slightly different design. They may have decided to put the fan on constantly on this version.
The ones I have seen working heat nuts and bolts to "red/orange hot" . ..even though they were full size nuts holding down a cylinder head ....... the temperatures in the video were barely above boiling point ....... I think there remains a problem yet to be solved!
It does heat up to that point, I've used it since on the car. However I didn't fancy having a red / orange glowing nut on my desk at the time 😂😂
Nice video thank you I’m trying to repair a Sykes Pickavant model but can’t find the component that’s broken can you help?
The component is a Orange drop capacitor CDE773P319.
373k550VAC.
1314.
Thank you
Hi, from the markings looks like a 37nf 550V polypropylene film capacitor. I did have a quick look but couldn't find the exact one. You could see if you can find one by a different manufacturer of the same capacitance with a higher voltage perhaps? 600V?
@@BuyitFixit Thank you for the reply can I change the 37nf for higher ?
I'm not too sure on that one. It may pass too much voltage or too little if you use a different value.
Mine just went today with a bang and tripped the fuse box.. opened it up and slightly different to this.
What sort of cost to fix these?
@@Alanw74 I can't remember the cost of the parts exactly but I'd guess they were around £20-25. I don't think these are designed very well at this one failed again after a few uses...
@BuyitFixit ah OK,that's not good at all. Might not be worth fixing then. Thankyou for reply
@@BuyitFixit have you looked up what the new problem is? i have a similar induktion heater that you have .and is trying to fix it . but my mainboard is not look exactly same as yours . but its similar. do you know the level of the output from the small ic that is drive the gate on the igbts?
mvh pehr
That whole thing looks bit over-engineered to me 😄 But nice to see you got the balls to hold the bolt by hand when having no idea how fast it will heat up 🤣
😂😂😂Well it wasn't glowing, but it was still quite hot 😂
So why is there exposed parts when attachments are fitted ?
Yes, the bare copper does seem a bit excessive.
Looked like you torched your phone screen for a sec there but it seems the mark was there already lol
Yeah, it's some overlay button thing, phone was fine 😂😂🙄👍
Did u check the switch
I honestly can't remember, it was a while back this one.
The thing I find most difficult is ordering replacement parts, when the data sheet shows multiples of the same part. Along with obsolescence, it gets quite confusing.
A lot of the multiples of the same part are just usually quantities or if it is on a reel or tape. I've found that sometimes ICs are exactly the same but with different numbers from different manufacturers, like on the Milwaukee radio I repaired some time ago. Two completely different part numbers and manufacturers, but the same pin out and functionality.
Honestly, when I saw the video thumb nail I thought it looked like some sort of cattle prod and I did momentarily think you're moving towards a bit of 'niche audience'. Thank F I watched it! Awesome job as always Mick, great work! I have a mate that owns his own garage and he has a Snap On version of one of these. For him it's a really cool tool that comes out of the cupboard 2 or 3 times a year and when it does, it's worth every penny.
Thanks Marc 🙂👍yes it does look a bit like a cattle prod 😂😂
Fixer of all, E-bay bargain browser extraordinaire!
😂😂😂👍
do you have a cheap suggestion for a decent multimeter please?
I've always liked fluke meters but they are usually more expensive. If you get a budget meter get one that is auto ranging as they are a lot easier to use than the type you have to manually select the voltage or resistance range.
The fuse is filled with sand it is designed to prevent any connection forming when it blows...By putting a glass fuse in place you circumvented a safety feature.
Yes, a couple of others mentioned the same. I'll change it before use. Thanks for commenting 👍
I want one, but I think you should have tried it around a metal bolt or bar first
It was totally dead, no power at all.
Amazing.... I wish i could understand how to repair things like you.... but i´m a car mekanik .... not an elecktrik wizard
Thanks 👍 I'm a little of both. I often have my hands covered in oil. My wifes got a discovery 4. Had the body off it 3 times so far, EGR pipes blown, then the turbo's went. Recently had my ML320 up on my ramp as it had the oil cooler problem (after we replaced the main crankshaft seal as we thought it was that). Bloody cars.. .😂😂😂
Just be aware that there are v similar versions out there where the pcb does have ic's other than the gate driver. Also the markings on those ic's are obfuscated. I'm having fun trying to repair one at the moment.
Interesting. You'll have to let me know how you get on 👍
Personally I don't like these glass fuses on a mains equipment. The breaking capacity of these is barely 20A at the 240VAC, way bellow the short circuit fault current. That means those are not rated to break the current safely at all, the arc just makes them explode and jump onto something else. Better use the ceramic ones, the breaking capacity of those is 1500A, the cord resistance and mains impedance usually keeps the current within that limit.
I might change it as a couple of people have mentioned that. Thank you for your input 👍
These things are surprisingly well priced.
Unfortunately I think that may be due to the build quality. Some of the previews on Amazon said things like it was dead out of the box or failed after a couple of uses.
@@BuyitFixit probably because it's using a "cheap" version of an inductive heater driver, like ZVS'es - they fail when you "turn them on incorrectly". The components you replaced are the common culprits... The H-Bridge "stalls" and shorts everything.
@@dimitar4yhi,
Can I ask you to suggest a better quality inductor driver? Or would it not straight swap with the provided pcb?
@@ianhelsbyservices Sadly, no. I cannot suggest a quality inductor driver - those are what usually makes or breaks the retail available "premium" induction heaters.
The only "swappable" component is the coil and capacitors. The issue is that quality inductor drivers are usually expensive due to the nature of their requirements. They have 1. sensitive chips to detect the "frequency response" of the coil for auto-tuning, 2. filters to save it from self-destructing, 3. high-amperage, high-speed-switching mosfets - which themselves are already expensive, 4. Bootstrap circuitry - and all of that works mostly specific to the design of the coil (diameter/inductance/thickness/impedance). This is why most people use ZVS drivers as they're "cheaper" than the alternative and require essentially no tuning. But any issues with the power supply or the coil will instantly destroy everything due to transistor failure - the H bridge becomes a full short. Bye bye traces, bye bye transistors, and bye bye power supply sometimes. Most hobbyists use screw terminals for the transistors for quick swapping :')
I have an induction heater that I used 4 times and it died. It's one with a separate box for the electronics. Interested in trying to fix it?
I have two none work. Bought from China AliExpress first worked a couple of days. And heats up bolts and nuts so they turn RED and come off as easily as possible. Changed steering knuckle shock absorbers on a Nissan Micra. And were stuck. Stopped working. My son who is skilled in soldering wondered if there was anyone who had never soldered before as it was very amateurishly done a lot of cold soldering.
Complained and got a new one under warranty. Worked for an hour or so and appeared to be the "same" person who made this. The fuse that was soldered on had tripped removed it and soldered on the brackets to be able to change the fuse easily. But it doesn't work and my knowledge of troubleshooting components "ended" when I replaced the fuse holder. Tried to talk my son into troubleshooting. But the answer was don't even want to see the "shit" again.🤭
The tool itself is and the principle of how it works is absolutely superb, can be accessed in tight places as there are different variants of the "spirals" and can be bent into shape. AND you only heat that part "the bolt" and since it is fast, the heat does not spread to, for example, rubber bushings.
I don't think that they are very reliable. I saw a few comments on Amazon saying similar to what you just said. At least if you or your son ever wanted to have a go at fixing it, this video should give you a good idea what to check.
@@BuyitFixit T
Thanks❗ Yes I will absolutely use your troubleshooting on my devices. Can guarantee that the son will look like this😲🤥. If I find similar faults and ask him to help me replace them, there is a large company Elfa in Sweden that has components. I can handle a multimeter pretty well. Has a short past as a car mechanic on new cars in the mid 70s (Sweden) General agent for Mercedes but also Audi and Simca😬 On a brand new Simca 1100 (similar to a wv Golf) the high beam switch did not work. I debugged with a "test lamp" From the switch on the steering column to the lamp, the cable changed color 4 TIMES and in one of the "joints" the cables did not fit together. That's when my preconceived notions about French car manufacturers turned out to be correct, at least in the 70s. I will get back with the results. And above all you have a new subscriber just the right kind of topic that interests me.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks❗ Yes I will absolutely use your troubleshooting on my devices. Can guarantee that the son will look like this😲🤥. If I find similar faults and ask him to help me replace them, there is a large company Elfa in Sweden that has components. I can handle a multimeter pretty well. Has a short past as a car mechanic on new cars in the mid 70s (Sweden) General agent for Mercedes but also Audi and Simca😬 On a brand new Simca 1100 (similar to a wv Golf) the high beam switch did not work. I debugged with a "test lamp" From the switch on the steering column to the lamp, the cable changed color 4 TIMES and in one of the "joints" the cables did not fit together. That's when my preconceived notions about French car manufacturers turned out to be correct, at least in the 70s. I will get back with the results. And above all you have a new subscriber just the right kind of topic that interests me.
You better watch out with your piercing when you play around with that gadget. 😂
Piercing.. have you been spying on my Only fans page??? 😂😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit 🤣🤣🤣
last 12hrs only available while live, now at 17hrs - well done.
Thanks 👍
Wow you cleaned up them holes quick 😮
Years of practice 😂😂😂😂
If the manufacturer put a ceramic fuse in I think there is probably a reason for that since the seem to skimp on pretty much everything else.
I think they used a ceramic fuse because glass fuses can explode when they blow. I probably should have used a ceramic one, but I didn't have one at the time.
It would be fabulous if every component had a tiny pop up indicator like a turkey to let you know it's fully cooked.
Yes 😂😂😂 It would make repair a lot easier!
That long part under the heatsink is not an inductor, probably capacitors connected in series.
I'm sure it's enamelled wire wrapped around a ferrite core.
@@BuyitFixitYou are right, the capacitor is on the other side, my mistake.
👍👍👍
👍👍👍🙂
I bought one of these and they are ok but don’t last long. I returned it and bought a induction innovations. Just a better product.
Yes, these don't seem to be a quality product..
New tool! Re-Hot GPU Bro!
😂😂😂😂👍
The fact that they solder tinned the high current output wires that are secured by screws indicates some dubious design. NEVER solder tin wires that will be secured by screw/clamp connections. TBH I'd replace as much as possible on something like this even if it measures OK it could have been badly stressed and fail not long after the repair and most of those components are cheap.
Yes, seems cheaply made. A lot of bad reviews on Amazon about DOA or failed after 2 or 3 uses. We'll see how it goes...
@@BuyitFixit Induction heaters are actually quite hard to design in a way that they don't self destruct, a common issue is them not starting up properly and latching on, the Cheap Chinese ones that work of a DC supply must have a decent high current supply, a sluggish supply often leads to latchup and burn out, also as others have said unplugging them without giving them sufficient time to cool might be an issue.
Thanks for the info Martin 👍
Did you just melt your phone at the end of the video? the heater elements are still red hot!
Naa, it was fine 😂😂😂👍
Good you replied.
Don't you love when semiconductors morph into solder bridges?
Yes, I think it's the most common mode of failure.
@@BuyitFixit True. RF bipolar transistors, the high current flange mount ceramic pill kind, almost always fail open ironically