I started to do the plugs on my 2016 Canyon, when I realized the intake has to come off I backed out. Will wait for another day where I have more time and warmer out. Thanks for video ✌️
Very helpful video. As mentioned, it can be done without fully removing the intake, and without unhooking many of the connections/cable routing clips attached to it. I had two tips that I found helpful. First one is after you have all the intake bolts loose, use a clothespin on the back right 13mm bolt (the one that won't come out due to height) to hold it in a position high enough that it isn't catching on the intake side, and not ramming the firewall/cowl area on the top side. Second, the rear 10mm bolts are done almost entirely by feel. They can be a bit of a pain to get back in since you can't really see to get the bolt started. Use your phone to take a pic of that area so you can see what you're working with and where to start trying to thread those bolts. For those complaining about plugs on these LFX motors, I suggest not trying to do this work on the Jeep W2K Pentastar. Though challenging on the LFX, it's an absolute nightmare on the Pentastar V6. I don't think this is a case of "stupid engineering" as much as the intake plenum has to go somewhere, as this and the Pentastar both have similar designs where access to certain plugs is challenging. At least the intake bolts on the LFX aren't captive, which makes that intake much easier to deal with.
Great video, did the plugs and coils (might as well do them while you are in there.) There are a few additional sensors and connectors that need to be removed that aren't shown in the video but they are reasonably self-explanatory. We ended up not fully removing the intake, as I think there were bolts at the back that we couldn't reach but this video loosens it enough to where you can still get to the three passenger coils without fully removing the intake. This was however the best video I found as there were several others that were significantly longer and weren't as helpful.
I was so glad to find your video, I was going to have a shop do this for me and was quoted anywhere from 600 to 900 bucks to do it. Telling me it took 3 to 4 hours of shop time! After watching your video and few expletive's about the engineers that designed this POS, I did it in about 2 hours. Saved me a bunch of money, THANKS!!!
Thank you Steve for this amazing video on how to replace spark plug. I was just looking at my service manual and I’m due for spark plugs incredibly I’m at 140 k with no issues
Just did mine.Royal pain.Poor design that you have to take the intake manifold off to get two of the spark plugs out.Thanks for posting this.Good information.
yo thank u so much im about to do the plugs and didnt know what to do about the intake sitting over. thank you and its nice to teach the kids how to do such a task.
I got 4 done and realized I had to take the intake off. I didn't finish it lol. 4 out of 6 works for me but now that I seen it's not terrible I'm gonna finish this tomorrow lol
Thanks for the great detail! I tried a while ago on my 16 Colorado, which is practically the same truck, to do this on my own and gave up because I couldn’t figure out what I was missing. Now it doesn’t seem as bad with all the details and tips you provided! Thanks!!
Add an oil separator can to the PCV line to prevent the carbon buildup on a direct fuel injection engine. I picked up one from mishimoto for like $130 but from my research they seem to make the best one for the price. The one I got was the MMBCC-CBTWO-XL kit and it doesnt come with any hoses. So I tossed the stock PCV hose from the engine to the intake and bought 6 feet of low pressure fuel line and a barbed adapter to plug into the PCV port on the engine to run to the can and then cut the line and used the rest to run from the can to the intake and secured everything down with hose clamps. Works great, I go about 5k American miles (lol) before dumping it and its about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That will save your valves from the carbon buildup and worth every penny when you consider what it will cost to have your valves de-carboned. Probably the best thing to do is add the catch can when doing the spark plugs so you can dump some berryman vitamin b-12 down the yap and soak up some of those valves and shimmy the ol'crankolator to close the other valves and repeat till she got all the vitamins she needs to break up that carbon then put the intake back on and bring the thunder!! to blow'er out.
Is there any in depth vids that show how to do this. This vid skips around so alot of the work is not being shown and how these dang colorados are i need step by step this has half missing
Glad it could be of help! It’s a bit daunting when needing to take the intake off but is not as bad as it seems. It could likely be done without taking it off but it would take much longer and involve much more swearing.
@@SDSGarage89 I was able to do without removing the intake manifold. I removed all but the back three bolts - just left them "floating" so that I could raise the front of the intake manifold and prop it up with a short socket extension. After removing the purge solenoid valve, there was enough room to pull the ignition coil at cylinder Bank 1-2 (that's passenger side front). There was also enough room to get in a socket extension and spark plug socket to properly torque the spark plug (18 ft-lb). The service manual has you remove the wiper arms, air inlet grill, wiper motor assembly, surge tank (partial), air cleaner outlet duct, brake booster vacuum hose, PCV hose, purge solenoid, and fuel pipe shield. That adds several more hours, and it was getting dark, so I had to find another way. Hope that helps somebody.
Nice video. What are the torque specs for that intake manifold? Spark plug torque spec? Is it ok to just reuse the intake manifold as is? No need for new seals or anything? Thanks.
I did it myself and took just about an hour. I do work at a shop though and had my tool box right there and step stools/lights/tools at the ready so I figure it would of taken me an hour and a half if I was in my driveway. I did also take some time to spray out the throttle body
I honestly can't remember. I think you could probably hour and a half to two hours if it's the first time doing it. I was also doing the valve cleaning at the same time i filmed this, and a serpentine change so i spent all day doing all those three jobs. Having a few cold snacks too. Good luck
Engineers for putting intake manifolds over spark plugs are the absolute worst human beings on the planet because they absolutely could have made it different so it didn't block spark plugs I buy cars that don't block them now
I would sure like to know how that hose connects to the top on the intake manifold at the 3:36 spot that seemed like it took you all but a half second to reconnect. I not only struggled removing it but found it even more of a pita to reconnect.
Hey! I believe you are referring the the vacuum line that connects to the passenger side of the manifold with the grey clips you need to squeeze top and bottom, right?
@@SDSGarage89 the connection im referring to is at the top on the intake manifold that has a 90 degree bend to it which seems to be connected somewhere near the rear of the passenger side valve cover close to the firewall. The connection after the degree bend going to the intake manifold I've struggled figuring out what's the best way to disengage it. Seems like you pry up on one of the two black retaining clips and pull straight up but careful not to bend the hose to much as you may kink it.
@@SS-ny4pt Maybe you are referring to the duct hose that connects to the throttle body; that is a pita. The throttle body inlet on my engine has a lip on one side and a trough on the other - almost like it was machined incorrectly. It's not a perfect hollow cylinder for the last inch or so. I have to pull back on the rubber tab of the duct and insert it over the throttle body at an angle to get it over the lip (left side of the air cleaner outlet duct angled towards me). Also removing the top cover of the air cleaner assembly helps provide some more room to work.
The whole thing is a mess thanks to the PVC system. I have plans to covert to a catch can and when that happens the whole intake, throttle body and intake valves will need a deep clean again.
Sorry, but I have never come across anything like that as I have never looked around for it. When I removed the intake for plugs and the intake valve cleaning you can see the injection pump tucked in the back. What’s up with your fuel injectors?
@@southernaristaeusoutdoor3451 I have never heard of them recommending fuel injector replacement. I am not the be all end all of these things tho. I would suggest maybe plugs and intake valve cleaning first as that has to be easier thank messing with those high pressure injection system.
@@SDSGarage89 yeah I was just thinking if I’m gonna have to a lot of work on changing the spark plugs might as well change coil packs and fuel injectors in one go. Coil packs are good for up to 100,000 miles and fuel injectors are good from 50-100,000 miles, might as well do them and worry about everything years down the road instead taking the manifold off again in 30,000 miles.
Not any serious reason. On higher power motors people keep track of what plug came from what cylinder to read them and make sure nothing is running to lean or rich based on the colour. Not even close to being important on a stock pickup truck. Just did it to stay organized mostly.
Very informative. I’m not a mechanic by any means but I’ve had to a lot of basic maintenance things to my vehicles over the years so I know a little. Don’t laugh if this is a stupid question. Are you able to see the exhaust valves with a borescope when you take the intake manifold off. I would like to see how carboned up they are since the 3.6 is a GDI engine. I use top tier gas and chevron fuel system cleaner regularly but I know this doesn’t help a GDI engine much due to their design. Thanks in advance.
Not a dumb question at all. When you take the intake off these trucks on the LFX motor you can absolutely see the intake valves. No need for a bore scope, they are quite close to where the intake sits on the heads. I have another video showing how bad mine were after 180,000km and how I cleaned them. If you place your iPhone over the intake running and put it on videos with the flash on you get an even better view of them.
@@MikeJohnson-ut7lx after 2016 they switched to the LGX V6. I only have experience it the LFX Motor. I would assume they are similar but if you have a 2017+ see what info is out there.
Most of what I saw on forums say the intake has to come off. Since posting some people have said they have been able to complete without completely removing the intake, but as I understand all bolts need to be loose so it can be lifted up out of the way. Not the best feature of the trucks for sure.
It might be too late, and I no longer have my 2010 V8 for a video, but I can tell you from experience that the answer is through the wheel wells. It’s really not bad after that.
I did a bunch of services at once. If by backside you me the intake side of the valves, yes they were filthy. The combustion side of the valves I never looked at.
Add an oil separator can to the PCV line to prevent the carbon buildup on a direct fuel injection engine. I picked up one from mishimoto for like $130 but from my research they seem to make the best one for the price. The one I got was the MMBCC-CBTWO-XL kit and it doesnt come with any hoses. So I tossed the stock PCV hose from the engine to the intake and bought 6 feet of low pressure fuel line and a barbed adapter to plug into the PCV port on the engine to run to the can and then cut the line and used the rest to run from the can to the intake and secured everything down with hose clamps. Works great, I go about 5k miles before dumping it and its about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That will save your valves from the carbon buildup and worth every penny when you consider what it will cost to have your valves de-carboned. Probably the best thing to do is add the catch can when doing the spark plugs so you can dump some berryman vitamin b-12 down the yap and soak up some of those valves and shimmy the ol'crankolator to close the other valves and repeat till she got all the vitamins she needs to break up that carbon then put the intake back on and bring the thunder!! to blow'er out. I'll share in the main comments too.
Wish you would have explained a little more about all the plugs that need to come off the intake manifold. I spent 45 minutes trying to undo ONE of them.
Thanks for the detail of remove spark plugs may be a 4 hours work for me. Oh well. I sometimes will say "stupid engineer design" for that sometimes stop the average diy person from doing maintenance work on their vehicle.
Do not! Under any circumstances simply left the manifold. I did this and unbenounced to me the intake gasket was broken or I broke it when lifting. I started the engine up and boy was that engine knocking like it was going to come off of the chassis. REMOVE IT ALL. don't be lazy and replace the gasket. It's $40 at your local AutoZone. They are d shaped gasket not oval.
I flashed the TCM and throttle ramp in back when it had about 40k. Bad News Racing out of Florida writes (or wrote, not sure if they are around still) custom tunes to help mitigate this. I would say it is 60% better than it was but it is still there in specific situations. I don’t know if you can fully delete it as I believe it had something to do with the torque management GM puts in them. It doesn’t slip and I work it pretty hard so can’t complain too much, but god dammit did they mis the mark on the trans with these trucks
@@SDSGarage89my 2016 canyon is always granny shifting I find myself hitting the gas harder before it wants to shift just to get the thing to rev up. I get beat by minivans off the line and they aren’t even trying to race lol
Ive been avoiding mine and its been running like shit lately at 102k miles i saw the intake in the way and put everything away and closed the hood lol. I guess it really does have to come off glad i didnt get the new colorado id hate to see the stupid engineering behind that.
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I started to do the plugs on my 2016 Canyon, when I realized the intake has to come off I backed out. Will wait for another day where I have more time and warmer out. Thanks for video ✌️
Very helpful video. As mentioned, it can be done without fully removing the intake, and without unhooking many of the connections/cable routing clips attached to it. I had two tips that I found helpful. First one is after you have all the intake bolts loose, use a clothespin on the back right 13mm bolt (the one that won't come out due to height) to hold it in a position high enough that it isn't catching on the intake side, and not ramming the firewall/cowl area on the top side. Second, the rear 10mm bolts are done almost entirely by feel. They can be a bit of a pain to get back in since you can't really see to get the bolt started. Use your phone to take a pic of that area so you can see what you're working with and where to start trying to thread those bolts.
For those complaining about plugs on these LFX motors, I suggest not trying to do this work on the Jeep W2K Pentastar. Though challenging on the LFX, it's an absolute nightmare on the Pentastar V6. I don't think this is a case of "stupid engineering" as much as the intake plenum has to go somewhere, as this and the Pentastar both have similar designs where access to certain plugs is challenging. At least the intake bolts on the LFX aren't captive, which makes that intake much easier to deal with.
Great video, did the plugs and coils (might as well do them while you are in there.) There are a few additional sensors and connectors that need to be removed that aren't shown in the video but they are reasonably self-explanatory. We ended up not fully removing the intake, as I think there were bolts at the back that we couldn't reach but this video loosens it enough to where you can still get to the three passenger coils without fully removing the intake. This was however the best video I found as there were several others that were significantly longer and weren't as helpful.
Glad it helped. When I shot this I did a bunch of stuff all at once: belt and idler puller, cleaned the intake valves, so it was already off anyway.
Didnt take the whole manifold off, loosened all bolts completely, can lift intake enough to get all plugs out on drinker side. Thanks for video!
I was so glad to find your video, I was going to have a shop do this for me and was quoted anywhere from 600 to 900 bucks to do it. Telling me it took 3 to 4 hours of shop time! After watching your video and few expletive's about the engineers that designed this POS, I did it in about 2 hours. Saved me a bunch of money, THANKS!!!
Awesome! Glad this could help keep some coin in your pocket. $900 to do this is insane!!!!!!
Thank you Steve for this amazing video on how to replace spark plug. I was just looking at my service manual and I’m
due for spark plugs incredibly I’m at 140 k with no issues
Glad it helped!
Mines just about due for a tune up and I needed a refresher. Thanks for uploading this.
Just did mine.Royal pain.Poor design that you have to take the intake manifold off to get two of the spark plugs out.Thanks for posting this.Good information.
Best video around! Right to the point, just like an instructional vid should be!
yo thank u so much im about to do the plugs and didnt know what to do about the intake sitting over. thank you and its nice to teach the kids how to do such a task.
No problem! It was a bit daunting but after taking it on certainly not impossible. Glad it was able to help you!
I got 4 done and realized I had to take the intake off. I didn't finish it lol. 4 out of 6 works for me but now that I seen it's not terrible I'm gonna finish this tomorrow lol
Thanks for the great detail! I tried a while ago on my 16 Colorado, which is practically the same truck, to do this on my own and gave up because I couldn’t figure out what I was missing. Now it doesn’t seem as bad with all the details and tips you provided! Thanks!!
Thanks dude best video I've seen nice to the point and you show everyone perfectly 💪🤘👍
Add an oil separator can to the PCV line to prevent the carbon buildup on a direct fuel injection engine. I picked up one from mishimoto for like $130 but from my research they seem to make the best one for the price.
The one I got was the MMBCC-CBTWO-XL kit and it doesnt come with any hoses. So I tossed the stock PCV hose from the engine to the intake and bought 6 feet of low pressure fuel line and a barbed adapter to plug into the PCV port on the engine to run to the can and then cut the line and used the rest to run from the can to the intake and secured everything down with hose clamps.
Works great, I go about 5k American miles (lol) before dumping it and its about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That will save your valves from the carbon buildup and worth every penny when you consider what it will cost to have your valves de-carboned.
Probably the best thing to do is add the catch can when doing the spark plugs so you can dump some berryman vitamin b-12 down the yap and soak up some of those valves and shimmy the ol'crankolator to close the other valves and repeat till she got all the vitamins she needs to break up that carbon then put the intake back on and bring the thunder!! to blow'er out.
Think you should make a video of what you did
Is there any in depth vids that show how to do this. This vid skips around so alot of the work is not being shown and how these dang colorados are i need step by step this has half missing
Thank you for the excellent video and explanation of the process. Very clear as to what needs to be done.
Glad it could be of help! It’s a bit daunting when needing to take the intake off but is not as bad as it seems. It could likely be done without taking it off but it would take much longer and involve much more swearing.
@@SDSGarage89 I was able to do without removing the intake manifold. I removed all but the back three bolts - just left them "floating" so that I could raise the front of the intake manifold and prop it up with a short socket extension. After removing the purge solenoid valve, there was enough room to pull the ignition coil at cylinder Bank 1-2 (that's passenger side front). There was also enough room to get in a socket extension and spark plug socket to properly torque the spark plug (18 ft-lb). The service manual has you remove the wiper arms, air inlet grill, wiper motor assembly, surge tank (partial), air cleaner outlet duct, brake booster vacuum hose, PCV hose, purge solenoid, and fuel pipe shield. That adds several more hours, and it was getting dark, so I had to find another way. Hope that helps somebody.
Nice video. What are the torque specs for that intake manifold? Spark plug torque spec? Is it ok to just reuse the intake manifold as is? No need for new seals or anything? Thanks.
Hello Did you need to replace the intake gasket?
Nope, reused it and has not been an issue
Can you confirm there are only 8 bolts? 6 13mm and 2 10mm? I have taken 8 out and intake wont budge, dont want to break anything.
How did you get those back bolts out since they were so long?
On putting the in take back on how much truk do u have to put on it
This is a great video if you know how to undo all of the little plugs and clips unfastened without breaking them...
Thank you so much! Great video. Question: do we need to disconnect the battery before hand? I just turn 100K miles.
Thanks!!
Nope! Battery was left connected for spark plug replacement
About how long did it take you to complete? This video is fantastic!
I did it myself and took just about an hour. I do work at a shop though and had my tool box right there and step stools/lights/tools at the ready so I figure it would of taken me an hour and a half if I was in my driveway. I did also take some time to spray out the throttle body
I honestly can't remember. I think you could probably hour and a half to two hours if it's the first time doing it. I was also doing the valve cleaning at the same time i filmed this, and a serpentine change so i spent all day doing all those three jobs. Having a few cold snacks too. Good luck
Engineers for putting intake manifolds over spark plugs are the absolute worst human beings on the planet because they absolutely could have made it different so it didn't block spark plugs I buy cars that don't block them now
I would sure like to know how that hose connects to the top on the intake manifold at the 3:36 spot that seemed like it took you all but a half second to reconnect. I not only struggled removing it but found it even more of a pita to reconnect.
Hey! I believe you are referring the the vacuum line that connects to the passenger side of the manifold with the grey clips you need to squeeze top and bottom, right?
@@SDSGarage89 the connection im referring to is at the top on the intake manifold that has a 90 degree bend to it which seems to be connected somewhere near the rear of the passenger side valve cover close to the firewall. The connection after the degree bend going to the intake manifold I've struggled figuring out what's the best way to disengage it. Seems like you pry up on one of the two black retaining clips and pull straight up but careful not to bend the hose to much as you may kink it.
@@SS-ny4pt Maybe you are referring to the duct hose that connects to the throttle body; that is a pita. The throttle body inlet on my engine has a lip on one side and a trough on the other - almost like it was machined incorrectly. It's not a perfect hollow cylinder for the last inch or so. I have to pull back on the rubber tab of the duct and insert it over the throttle body at an angle to get it over the lip (left side of the air cleaner outlet duct angled towards me). Also removing the top cover of the air cleaner assembly helps provide some more room to work.
Very Helpful, now I have an idea what it takes, would have taken that throttle body off and clean it though. Thanks.
The whole thing is a mess thanks to the PVC system. I have plans to covert to a catch can and when that happens the whole intake, throttle body and intake valves will need a deep clean again.
Should have mentioned to replace the the gasket when you take the manifold off.
Thx Steve - can you stop by and replace mine in my 2020 Denali?? Just started missing!
Haha can’t escape Canada currently
Hey man I gotta 2016 Chevy Colorado and for the life of my can’t find a fuel injector replacement video, any help?
Sorry, but I have never come across anything like that as I have never looked around for it. When I removed the intake for plugs and the intake valve cleaning you can see the injection pump tucked in the back. What’s up with your fuel injectors?
@@SDSGarage89 got a sluggish acceleration and loss of power, as got 70,000 miles and they recommend changing them around that
@@southernaristaeusoutdoor3451 I have never heard of them recommending fuel injector replacement. I am not the be all end all of these things tho. I would suggest maybe plugs and intake valve cleaning first as that has to be easier thank messing with those high pressure injection system.
@@SDSGarage89 yeah I was just thinking if I’m gonna have to a lot of work on changing the spark plugs might as well change coil packs and fuel injectors in one go. Coil packs are good for up to 100,000 miles and fuel injectors are good from 50-100,000 miles, might as well do them and worry about everything years down the road instead taking the manifold off again in 30,000 miles.
@@southernaristaeusoutdoor3451 Run Sea Foam thru the fuel tank every few months, keeps injectors clean. GM recommends plug change at 97,500 miles.
This gonna sound like a total noon question but why did you stick the plugs in cardboard?
Not any serious reason. On higher power motors people keep track of what plug came from what cylinder to read them and make sure nothing is running to lean or rich based on the colour. Not even close to being important on a stock pickup truck. Just did it to stay organized mostly.
@@SDSGarage89 oh thank god. I have a 4cyl.
@@bigpun8601 out of curiosity what is your fuel economy like? It’s the 2.5L ectotec 4cyl right?
I have the 4 cyl, 2.5L.
My truck averages 11.5L / 100km.
Very informative. I’m not a mechanic by any means but I’ve had to a lot of basic maintenance things to my vehicles over the years so I know a little. Don’t laugh if this is a stupid question. Are you able to see the exhaust valves with a borescope when you take the intake manifold off. I would like to see how carboned up they are since the 3.6 is a GDI engine. I use top tier gas and chevron fuel system cleaner regularly but I know this doesn’t help a GDI engine much due to their design. Thanks in advance.
Not a dumb question at all. When you take the intake off these trucks on the LFX motor you can absolutely see the intake valves. No need for a bore scope, they are quite close to where the intake sits on the heads. I have another video showing how bad mine were after 180,000km and how I cleaned them. If you place your iPhone over the intake running and put it on videos with the flash on you get an even better view of them.
@@SDSGarage89 thanks. I believe that I need to look into this because I’ve noticed a slight hesitation occasionally. 74,000 miles or about 120,000 km.
@@MikeJohnson-ut7lx after 2016 they switched to the LGX V6. I only have experience it the LFX Motor. I would assume they are similar but if you have a 2017+ see what info is out there.
I’m sorry did you say the intake has to be removed?? I’m pissed enough the cover is part of the damn induction system
Most of what I saw on forums say the intake has to come off. Since posting some people have said they have been able to complete without completely removing the intake, but as I understand all bolts need to be loose so it can be lifted up out of the way. Not the best feature of the trucks for sure.
Any videos for changing Spark plugs on a 2009 V8 Colorado?
Sorry, don’t know anybody who has one any more. Drove one once or twice, loved the power and wish the new ones came with a 5.3 option.
It might be too late, and I no longer have my 2010 V8 for a video, but I can tell you from experience that the answer is through the wheel wells. It’s really not bad after that.
Steve great video
When you did your plugs , did you notice if your intake valves were carboned up on the backside .
I did a bunch of services at once. If by backside you me the intake side of the valves, yes they were filthy. The combustion side of the valves I never looked at.
Add an oil separator can to the PCV line to prevent the carbon buildup on a direct fuel injection engine. I picked up one from mishimoto for like $130 but from my research they seem to make the best one for the price.
The one I got was the MMBCC-CBTWO-XL kit and it doesnt come with any hoses. So I tossed the stock PCV hose from the engine to the intake and bought 6 feet of low pressure fuel line and a barbed adapter to plug into the PCV port on the engine to run to the can and then cut the line and used the rest to run from the can to the intake and secured everything down with hose clamps.
Works great, I go about 5k miles before dumping it and its about 1/2 to 3/4 full. That will save your valves from the carbon buildup and worth every penny when you consider what it will cost to have your valves de-carboned.
Probably the best thing to do is add the catch can when doing the spark plugs so you can dump some berryman vitamin b-12 down the yap and soak up some of those valves and shimmy the ol'crankolator to close the other valves and repeat till she got all the vitamins she needs to break up that carbon then put the intake back on and bring the thunder!! to blow'er out. I'll share in the main comments too.
Wish you would have explained a little more about all the plugs that need to come off the intake manifold. I spent 45 minutes trying to undo ONE of them.
Thanks bro
Thanks for the detail of remove spark plugs may be a 4 hours work for me. Oh well. I sometimes will say "stupid engineer design" for that sometimes stop the average diy person from doing maintenance work on their vehicle.
Hey no bi how to remove the intake
Do you mean the intake tube?
Great Video! Drunk engineer design.
Do not! Under any circumstances simply left the manifold. I did this and unbenounced to me the intake gasket was broken or I broke it when lifting. I started the engine up and boy was that engine knocking like it was going to come off of the chassis. REMOVE IT ALL. don't be lazy and replace the gasket. It's $40 at your local AutoZone. They are d shaped gasket not oval.
Thanks
What kind of luck have you had with your truck? I hear that those transmissions "shudder" and there is no fix for it.
I flashed the TCM and throttle ramp in back when it had about 40k. Bad News Racing out of Florida writes (or wrote, not sure if they are around still) custom tunes to help mitigate this. I would say it is 60% better than it was but it is still there in specific situations. I don’t know if you can fully delete it as I believe it had something to do with the torque management GM puts in them. It doesn’t slip and I work it pretty hard so can’t complain too much, but god dammit did they mis the mark on the trans with these trucks
@@SDSGarage89my 2016 canyon is always granny shifting I find myself hitting the gas harder before it wants to shift just to get the thing to rev up. I get beat by minivans off the line and they aren’t even trying to race lol
Geez allllll that for spark plugs wow
I didn’t have to pull off my intake manifold on my 2016 Colorado.
Ive been avoiding mine and its been running like shit lately at 102k miles i saw the intake in the way and put everything away and closed the hood lol. I guess it really does have to come off glad i didnt get the new colorado id hate to see the stupid engineering behind that.
So… you just decided to not talk about the 10mm bolts at the back of intake thst you have remove! So lame and frustrating
He did, watch it again.
All to change plugs. Smh
Yeah, a bitch much that’s for damn sure
another vid ruined with dumb music..