For the past 20 years I've been riding on a USE titanium post that's so thin and flexible it offers an impressive amount of ride smoothing capabilities. You can actually grab the seat and see it flex. After seeing all the labor this leaf spring post requires, I'm glad I bought the Ti post 20 years ago. Lots of people out there don't realize how comfy a high end Ti post is.
Excellent review and commentary. I've run an Ergon/Canyon seat post for four years. All the setup tricks are spot on, and yes, if you're saddle-adjustment obsessed, this is indeed not the post for you. For washboardy gravel, this post most certainly is worth it, especially on rugged descents, allowing me to stay seated much longer than with a rigid post. It was also necessary to shim my post to get the creaks out. Dust and small stones get wedged between the two halves over time, so I dismantle and clean all the parts every time I replace my tire sealant.
@mfosiecki, I had read a few months ago about people shimming with thin cardboard, so was surprised to find the “carbon” shim in the box. I guess they heard this feedback. Good on them
@@AnAvidCyclist I've been on this seatpost since I bought my Canyon in 21- it's been great, I got a new saddle and did a deep clean and there is no shim in mine?? Did it fall out? I never took that bolt out before and opened it up. Do I need it?
A point often missed: A flex post also gives better GRIP, just like the suspension in a car does: (Reason: The spring mechanism will ‘press’ the bike into the road’s depressions & unevennesses faster than gravity alone would)
@@AnAvidCyclist BTW I have Easton EA90 seatpost. It is interesting because it has mechanism which alows to swap saddles without touching height or tilt, an inovative solution.
I’m fully onboard for carbon seatposts at this point. I swapped the Ergon for an Enve just to see and found the Enve to be very compliant. So I wouldn’t turn down an Ergon, but I wouldn’t pay a premium either. Interesting to see that Canyon has walked away from the design too. - but I couldn’t get the Enve to tip the nose up at all, and for whatever reason, I need a bit of nose up. So I’m now a week into riding on the Thomson Carbon. I went back to that because 1) carbon and 2) I know the clamp adjusts the way I need it too. Honestly, it’s a bit depressing to see how modern frames are moving toward forcing proprietary and house brand seatposts. I fear for our future ability to tinker with our bikes!
@@AnAvidCyclist unfortunatelly all things around us are getting in that direction. I work as IT service personel and now almost there is no chance to fix something, you can just replace with other part. Car industry also, just reading some FB publications about modern cars engines. Engineers decided to put intercooler inside the intake manifold, also starter is now inside of gearbox bell housing on some cars, drivecahin is put on side where gearbos is, timing belt is submerged in engine oil. WTF where this World is going 🤔🤦♂️
Yeah, all the carbon seat posts are pretty pricey anymore. I’ve ridden a couple others since and they are all more comfortable than aluminum posts so at least you get something for the money.
Interesting that you found the setup so painful. I think it's much more user friendly than most other seat posts I've had to deal with so far. Especially changing the saddle is super easy, just loosen two screws, take out the saddle, put in the new one and tighten again. No need to disassemble the whole thing and even the angle stays the same without having to readjust anything. I don't generally use saddles with carbon rails though, so that might make a difference. Incompatibility with DI2 is a real bummer though, I'd love to have one of these on my Aethos.
If you want to test gravel suspension come to Michigan, with the freeze thaw every year, the roads are mean, the road crews try but they lay down rocks not gravel to fill the mud in, the potholes are the size of a car, I love the snowpacked roads cuz' the snow fills in the holes, rocks, and makes for smoother roads below 30f the lower you go the getter the roads, the sun comes out and ruins everything,, seat post/stem work, but some actual light weight suspension is needed.. 40+mm tires help, but I hit a wash out across the road on my Epic EVO as 40mph and bottomed out the 120mm Rock Shox Ultimate.. set up for trails.. Gravel is mean in Michigan..
I have the ergon/canyon post on my road bike. It really does help especially skinny tire shitty pavement. My gravel bike has di2 so I use the syntax carbon post on that. That also has some nice flex to it.
Thanks for that @thecappy! Syntace has been a bit off my radar for a number of years, but that looks like a great alternative. Both for Di2 and for Fizik carbon rails.
Not sure if you saw, but that’s the purpose of the shim between them. Apparently earlier versions didn’t come with the shim and people were using cardboard, etc. I never experienced any creaking, but it’s probably inevitable as grit will for sure migrate down there. I found it to be a hassle to clean that area, and I’m not one to regularly clean my bike.
Very good review! Genuinely, I do think comfort is often the limiting factor for gravel - the surfaces around me are course sub-base and 4 hours or so is a number! That said, I've been thinking of these, but while I can see a compression/extension advantage, I can't see much benefit for chatter. And then two workshop issues maybe you've had: build up of grit between the 'leaves' and water drain down between them and into the bb?
Thanks for the nice comments! Yeah, the water was a thought, but 1) I don’t really ride in the rain much and 2) it should just drain out the bottom. Should! Depends on the BB design whether you’re exposing your bearings, of course. If this thing starts creaking from dust/grit, then it’s coming out. Noise is unforgivable!! 🙂
Just by watching the beginning and seeing your seatpost I could tell there was room for improvement in terms of comfort. Straight, round seatpost with no offset is bound to be less than optimal on gravel. I myself am a huge fan of Spesh CGR, yeah ugly I know but super comfy. Too bad they dont make them anymore.
Yikes! I think I damaged my eyes looking up what the CGR was! 🙂 More seriously, I don’t think I’d be able to get as forward as I like with any setback post. But great to include options, even if you have to go to eBay to find them
fwiw I have run both the RedShift (works well) and ThudBuster LT (creak fest) seat posts for extended periods, and the Ergon will give similar large amounts of flex to those solutions. They all worked brilliantly to improve saddle comfort but are no longer on my bikes. The unfixable problem with the large amounts of flex approach to comfort is that every time a bump is hit, all that extra flex significantly shortens the seat height relative to pedals and mucks up bike fit. Extra flex ends up being a great for short blasts - possibly longer smooth rides - but on longer and bumpier rides it will unfortunately absolutely kill the legs.
Hmm, just wrapped up the 100 miler at Rebecca’s Private Idaho yesterday. It’s pretty much all gravel and had a TON of washboard this year, and I didn’t experience this leg thing with the Ergon. ymmv
@@AnAvidCyclist Chapeau and well done on RPI. If not tried already, would still recommend experimenting with and without on some fairly longish repeatable test circuits and seeing what the legs feel like afterwards for comparison. Who knows, maybe RPI less comfortable but faster next year 😉 Good luck with it either way.
I think the Redshift Shockstop suspension post is a better option which uses springs for actual suspension. I use it on my XC hardtail. Get the spring rate right and it doesn't bob or feel too bouncy. I think it looks pretty discreet as well.
Thanks for the recommendation. I was interested in how they used the carbon fiber layup and 2 leaf spring design to provide compliance with no maintenance or adjustment. Similar to a Lauf fork. Ride on!!
Interesting seat post, i think you should set the angle first while not locking it down while it's in the seat tube, than mark that angle with a piece of tape, pull it out than lock it down if that makes sense!! My 2 cents!! Cheers
Did you experience any problems mountain this saddle? The instructions say that the distance between the rail guide lines must not exceed 42mm. That's why the saddle doesn't fit on the seat post clamps at all. I'm afraid of bending the rails or that it will break if I force it in there.
My rails measured fine. One challenge I had was because I flipped the head to allow a more forward position. The docs don’t say anything, but you need to flip all 4 of the head pieces, not just the outer 2 pieces. So basically you have to completely disassemble the seat-post. Not sure if you’re running into this exact problem, but figure it was worth calling out. If your saddle rails aren’t standard width, then you are likely in trouble for all seat posts.
@@AnAvidCyclist gotcha, I thought that based on your statement in the video. I just wanted to make sure there wants anything structural with the saddle & the post & the saddle & you. Great video, very destructive & concise
Wouldn't it be easier to mount the post, adjust the angle and mark it. Then remove the post and tighten it at the corespondent mark? Or is the resistance too great once inserted into the bike?
Another commenter said they were able to do that. Sadly, it was too tight in my frame. At any rate, it’s a one time hassle, since people rarely want to change the saddle tilt.
Mantap masukannya... Inti nya upgrade sesuai kebutuhan, sesuaikan dengan kekuatan fisik dan gaya bersepeda kita, jangan tujuannya upgrade malah jadi downgrade krn fisik tidak mendukung
I've looked for an installation manual, and even contacted Ergon, but they didn't give me a great answer. I'm a shorter rider and I'm tempted to try this on my Road Bike. Do the instructions say what the maximum insertion depth is? I'm afraid with less of the Carbon exposed the carbon leaf springs won't work as well or have much room to move.
I don’t have the post anymore so can’t check the manual. However, I don’t recall a MAX insertion (of course there’s a MIN insertion). But you’re right, mechanically I would expect the leaf springs to have less compliance as you insert more of the post. I replaced with an Enve and then a Thomson carbon post and honestly am not sure that the leaf springs were noticeably better than these carbon posts, so if you’re going to have little exposed post I’d probably recommend skipping the ergon post and just getting a decent carbon post instead. Good luck!
IME anything will be more comfortable than a Thomson - I've a bargain basement £20 carbon one on mine, it's done +3k with no issues whatsoever and plenty of 'give'.
Thanks. I would love to hear from anyone who has used the Thomson Carbon post. I like their simple design and the proven durability at very light weight.
well my guy, what you could have done, is just lay down the seat with the Thomson seat post attached (lay it upside down, saddle on the ground seat post pointing up), and draw it on a sheet of paper, or just draw a triangle with the distances measured not that hard, you were just reinventing the wheel.
Thanks! It’s more that it’s just “fiddly”, anyone could do it and get it set. Once it’s set you’re good. A bit more dexterity than I have wouldn’t hurt either!
I don’t remember where I got it, but it’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with various heads and ranges. Mine has the non-ratcheting head which is absolutely tiny for getting into tight areas. I think it goes to 15nm. It’s been a great purchase, but wasn’t cheap.
Hi, i wonder if with a 7kg bikepacking saddle bag could brake it... And since i dont have too much space between my frame and saddle, how much cm need to be out at the frame at the minimim height? Thanks
Probably depends on the rider weight. If there is a weight limit then it’s likely you could find it on the ergon site. As a non-bike-packer I can’t imagine wanting to have a large amount of weight up high and out back like that. At least not if you stand to climb at all
The weight weenie in me loves to dream about buying boutique parts like those. But the practical side usually wins after looking at details like the saddle support and imagining being stuck in the middle of nowhere regretting my choices 😂
I ran a gravelking SK 43mm in the back for several years. It’s probably 3-5mm on each side, but no more than 3 to the seat tube. Would not be good with any mud at all, but most of my events are in the dry part of the PNW so hasn’t been an issue.
It’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with different torque ranges and heads. This model does NOT have the ratcheting head which makes the head very small which is great for getting in tight areas. If you’re in the US they have gotten harder to find. Competitive Cyclist and REI both used to carry them, but neither seem to currently. I’ve been very happy with mine and it gets steady use. Good luck
Not quite right ! You leave the small bolt that clamps the 2 halves of the seatpost loose, insert it, adjust the angle, and note the reading - simple !!
I think it’s fun to try new approaches and am glad that we have engineers out there designing new stuff. Some works and some doesn’t. In terms of complexity, this is no where near as complex as a shock. I think it’s a very interesting application of carbon’s unique properties. Same as the Lauf fork, which I’m not interested in but glad they are thinking outside of the box
For the past 20 years I've been riding on a USE titanium post that's so thin and flexible it offers an impressive amount of ride smoothing capabilities. You can actually grab the seat and see it flex. After seeing all the labor this leaf spring post requires, I'm glad I bought the Ti post 20 years ago. Lots of people out there don't realize how comfy a high end Ti post is.
Dude, excellent video and your voice is so comfort!
☺️
Excellent review and commentary. I've run an Ergon/Canyon seat post for four years. All the setup tricks are spot on, and yes, if you're saddle-adjustment obsessed, this is indeed not the post for you. For washboardy gravel, this post most certainly is worth it, especially on rugged descents, allowing me to stay seated much longer than with a rigid post. It was also necessary to shim my post to get the creaks out. Dust and small stones get wedged between the two halves over time, so I dismantle and clean all the parts every time I replace my tire sealant.
For me, as a saddle adjustment obsessed person, this is a great seat post, as fore-aft setting doesn't change tilt setting and vice versa.
@@szczyp2963 Fore/aft and up/down adjustment…agreed!
@szczyp2963, agree. I wasn’t expecting this, but did want to change the fore/aft and was thrilled that it worked and didn’t mess with anything else.
@mfosiecki, I had read a few months ago about people shimming with thin cardboard, so was surprised to find the “carbon” shim in the box. I guess they heard this feedback. Good on them
@@AnAvidCyclist I've been on this seatpost since I bought my Canyon in 21- it's been great, I got a new saddle and did a deep clean and there is no shim in mine?? Did it fall out? I never took that bolt out before and opened it up. Do I need it?
Had one for8 years, love it
A point often missed: A flex post also gives better GRIP, just like the suspension in a car does:
(Reason: The spring mechanism will ‘press’ the bike into the road’s depressions & unevennesses faster than gravity alone would)
You said Aluminium, now you have my attention and respect 👍
😁
@@AnAvidCyclist BTW I have Easton EA90 seatpost. It is interesting because it has mechanism which alows to swap saddles without touching height or tilt, an inovative solution.
I’m fully onboard for carbon seatposts at this point. I swapped the Ergon for an Enve just to see and found the Enve to be very compliant. So I wouldn’t turn down an Ergon, but I wouldn’t pay a premium either. Interesting to see that Canyon has walked away from the design too. - but I couldn’t get the Enve to tip the nose up at all, and for whatever reason, I need a bit of nose up. So I’m now a week into riding on the Thomson Carbon. I went back to that because 1) carbon and 2) I know the clamp adjusts the way I need it too. Honestly, it’s a bit depressing to see how modern frames are moving toward forcing proprietary and house brand seatposts. I fear for our future ability to tinker with our bikes!
@@AnAvidCyclist unfortunatelly all things around us are getting in that direction. I work as IT service personel and now almost there is no chance to fix something, you can just replace with other part. Car industry also, just reading some FB publications about modern cars engines. Engineers decided to put intercooler inside the intake manifold, also starter is now inside of gearbox bell housing on some cars, drivecahin is put on side where gearbos is, timing belt is submerged in engine oil.
WTF where this World is going 🤔🤦♂️
Have been eyeing this one for years, but I could never get past the cost.
Yeah, all the carbon seat posts are pretty pricey anymore. I’ve ridden a couple others since and they are all more comfortable than aluminum posts so at least you get something for the money.
Interesting that you found the setup so painful. I think it's much more user friendly than most other seat posts I've had to deal with so far. Especially changing the saddle is super easy, just loosen two screws, take out the saddle, put in the new one and tighten again. No need to disassemble the whole thing and even the angle stays the same without having to readjust anything. I don't generally use saddles with carbon rails though, so that might make a difference.
Incompatibility with DI2 is a real bummer though, I'd love to have one of these on my Aethos.
Completely agree that the saddle swap is incredibly easy, but the tilt adjustment is a pain if it’s tight in the seat tube
Excellent. The stem is on my list. 👍
If you want to test gravel suspension come to Michigan, with the freeze thaw every year, the roads are mean, the road crews try but they lay down rocks not gravel to fill the mud in, the potholes are the size of a car, I love the snowpacked roads cuz' the snow fills in the holes, rocks, and makes for smoother roads below 30f the lower you go the getter the roads, the sun comes out and ruins everything,, seat post/stem work, but some actual light weight suspension is needed.. 40+mm tires help, but I hit a wash out across the road on my Epic EVO as 40mph and bottomed out the 120mm Rock Shox Ultimate.. set up for trails.. Gravel is mean in Michigan..
Brought to you by the Michigan Board of Tourism!!! Ha!
Excellent video.
I have the ergon/canyon post on my road bike. It really does help especially skinny tire shitty pavement. My gravel bike has di2 so I use the syntax carbon post on that. That also has some nice flex to it.
Thanks for that @thecappy! Syntace has been a bit off my radar for a number of years, but that looks like a great alternative. Both for Di2 and for Fizik carbon rails.
extra surfaces to creak excellent 😮
Not sure if you saw, but that’s the purpose of the shim between them. Apparently earlier versions didn’t come with the shim and people were using cardboard, etc. I never experienced any creaking, but it’s probably inevitable as grit will for sure migrate down there. I found it to be a hassle to clean that area, and I’m not one to regularly clean my bike.
@@AnAvidCyclist i did, interesting to see an indepth review anyway
Very good review! Genuinely, I do think comfort is often the limiting factor for gravel - the surfaces around me are course sub-base and 4 hours or so is a number! That said, I've been thinking of these, but while I can see a compression/extension advantage, I can't see much benefit for chatter. And then two workshop issues maybe you've had: build up of grit between the 'leaves' and water drain down between them and into the bb?
Thanks for the nice comments! Yeah, the water was a thought, but 1) I don’t really ride in the rain much and 2) it should just drain out the bottom. Should! Depends on the BB design whether you’re exposing your bearings, of course. If this thing starts creaking from dust/grit, then it’s coming out. Noise is unforgivable!! 🙂
Just by watching the beginning and seeing your seatpost I could tell there was room for improvement in terms of comfort. Straight, round seatpost with no offset is bound to be less than optimal on gravel.
I myself am a huge fan of Spesh CGR, yeah ugly I know but super comfy. Too bad they dont make them anymore.
Yikes! I think I damaged my eyes looking up what the CGR was! 🙂 More seriously, I don’t think I’d be able to get as forward as I like with any setback post. But great to include options, even if you have to go to eBay to find them
Thank you very much 👍
fwiw I have run both the RedShift (works well) and ThudBuster LT (creak fest) seat posts for extended periods, and the Ergon will give similar large amounts of flex to those solutions. They all worked brilliantly to improve saddle comfort but are no longer on my bikes. The unfixable problem with the large amounts of flex approach to comfort is that every time a bump is hit, all that extra flex significantly shortens the seat height relative to pedals and mucks up bike fit. Extra flex ends up being a great for short blasts - possibly longer smooth rides - but on longer and bumpier rides it will unfortunately absolutely kill the legs.
Hmm, just wrapped up the 100 miler at Rebecca’s Private Idaho yesterday. It’s pretty much all gravel and had a TON of washboard this year, and I didn’t experience this leg thing with the Ergon. ymmv
@@AnAvidCyclist Chapeau and well done on RPI. If not tried already, would still recommend experimenting with and without on some fairly longish repeatable test circuits and seeing what the legs feel like afterwards for comparison. Who knows, maybe RPI less comfortable but faster next year 😉 Good luck with it either way.
I think the Redshift Shockstop suspension post is a better option which uses springs for actual suspension. I use it on my XC hardtail. Get the spring rate right and it doesn't bob or feel too bouncy. I think it looks pretty discreet as well.
Thanks for the recommendation. I was interested in how they used the carbon fiber layup and 2 leaf spring design to provide compliance with no maintenance or adjustment. Similar to a Lauf fork. Ride on!!
ive been using the redshift stem and seatpost for a while now on one of my gravel bikes. they work exceptionally well.
Interesting seat post, i think you should set the angle first while not locking it down while it's in the seat tube, than mark that angle with a piece of tape, pull it out than lock it down if that makes sense!! My 2 cents!! Cheers
Yeah, some people seem able to do that. It was too tight in the seat tube to adjust. 🙁
Try an ISM saddle, they have a trial test program to assist in proper selection.
Thanks for the suggestion. I may be too much of a traditionalist for that though! 😂
@@AnAvidCyclist if you got balls, they will be way more respected with an ISM saddle.
No more unintended ball contact will occur.
Did you experience any problems mountain this saddle?
The instructions say that the distance between the rail guide lines must not exceed 42mm.
That's why the saddle doesn't fit on the seat post clamps at all. I'm afraid of bending the rails or that it will break if I force it in there.
My rails measured fine. One challenge I had was because I flipped the head to allow a more forward position. The docs don’t say anything, but you need to flip all 4 of the head pieces, not just the outer 2 pieces. So basically you have to completely disassemble the seat-post. Not sure if you’re running into this exact problem, but figure it was worth calling out.
If your saddle rails aren’t standard width, then you are likely in trouble for all seat posts.
What about the brooks rails won’t work with this seatpost?
The carbon rails on the Cambium carbon saddles are the standard 7x9mm.
Sorry, I was trying to say that the brooks saddle didn’t work for my butt
@@AnAvidCyclist gotcha, I thought that based on your statement in the video. I just wanted to make sure there wants anything structural with the saddle & the post & the saddle & you.
Great video, very destructive & concise
Wouldn't it be easier to mount the post, adjust the angle and mark it. Then remove the post and tighten it at the corespondent mark? Or is the resistance too great once inserted into the bike?
Another commenter said they were able to do that. Sadly, it was too tight in my frame. At any rate, it’s a one time hassle, since people rarely want to change the saddle tilt.
Mantap masukannya... Inti nya upgrade sesuai kebutuhan, sesuaikan dengan kekuatan fisik dan gaya bersepeda kita, jangan tujuannya upgrade malah jadi downgrade krn fisik tidak mendukung
I've looked for an installation manual, and even contacted Ergon, but they didn't give me a great answer. I'm a shorter rider and I'm tempted to try this on my Road Bike. Do the instructions say what the maximum insertion depth is? I'm afraid with less of the Carbon exposed the carbon leaf springs won't work as well or have much room to move.
I don’t have the post anymore so can’t check the manual. However, I don’t recall a MAX insertion (of course there’s a MIN insertion). But you’re right, mechanically I would expect the leaf springs to have less compliance as you insert more of the post. I replaced with an Enve and then a Thomson carbon post and honestly am not sure that the leaf springs were noticeably better than these carbon posts, so if you’re going to have little exposed post I’d probably recommend skipping the ergon post and just getting a decent carbon post instead. Good luck!
@@AnAvidCyclist😮
Try selle smp well for a saddle.
Thanks, but I really dislike any saddles with split rails
IME anything will be more comfortable than a Thomson - I've a bargain basement £20 carbon one on mine, it's done +3k with no issues whatsoever and plenty of 'give'.
Thanks. I would love to hear from anyone who has used the Thomson Carbon post. I like their simple design and the proven durability at very light weight.
well my guy, what you could have done, is just lay down the seat with the Thomson seat post attached (lay it upside down, saddle on the ground seat post pointing up), and draw it on a sheet of paper, or just draw a triangle with the distances measured not that hard, you were just reinventing the wheel.
Sounds like that would make a great addition to TH-cam as an instructional video. Post a link here when you’re done.
Great video. Seems like a pain in the ass to set up unless you are mechanically capable...
Thanks! It’s more that it’s just “fiddly”, anyone could do it and get it set. Once it’s set you’re good. A bit more dexterity than I have wouldn’t hurt either!
Can these be used with an adapter for a bike with a 30.9 seatpost adapter? or does an adapter interfere with the function of the seatpost?
I don’t know, seems possible since the ends are clamped together
Where did you buy the torque wrench from and how many NM does it go up to? Thx!
I don’t remember where I got it, but it’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with various heads and ranges. Mine has the non-ratcheting head which is absolutely tiny for getting into tight areas. I think it goes to 15nm. It’s been a great purchase, but wasn’t cheap.
Hi, i wonder if with a 7kg bikepacking saddle bag could brake it...
And since i dont have too much space between my frame and saddle, how much cm need to be out at the frame at the minimim height?
Thanks
Probably depends on the rider weight. If there is a weight limit then it’s likely you could find it on the ergon site. As a non-bike-packer I can’t imagine wanting to have a large amount of weight up high and out back like that. At least not if you stand to climb at all
what about the Tune Leichtes Stück seatpost?
The weight weenie in me loves to dream about buying boutique parts like those. But the practical side usually wins after looking at details like the saddle support and imagining being stuck in the middle of nowhere regretting my choices 😂
Classic saddle. If you forget To put In the shim the post Will slide down.
I love the original Alliante. I’ve got several in a box, just in case. No matter what I know I can always go back to that saddle and be happy
how much clearance do you have between your frame and tires? it looks really close!
I ran a gravelking SK 43mm in the back for several years. It’s probably 3-5mm on each side, but no more than 3 to the seat tube. Would not be good with any mud at all, but most of my events are in the dry part of the PNW so hasn’t been an issue.
is this seatpost safe for 7liter saddle bags?
You’ll need to check with Ergon on that one
What brand/model torque wrench do you use here?
It’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with different torque ranges and heads. This model does NOT have the ratcheting head which makes the head very small which is great for getting in tight areas. If you’re in the US they have gotten harder to find. Competitive Cyclist and REI both used to carry them, but neither seem to currently. I’ve been very happy with mine and it gets steady use. Good luck
U saved me 200, i aint buyin this contraption
Stickin to 28mm tires and just gonna take out a few psi
😂
Go to 30mm and even less PSI! 😁
cant, velominati rules....
@@oOoACFREEMANoOo, ha! Well, just a few years ago, they would have limited to you 21-23mm tires. It’s possible they don’t know what they are doing!! 😮
Not quite right ! You leave the small bolt that clamps the 2 halves of the seatpost loose, insert it, adjust the angle, and note the reading - simple !!
That would definitely help, but was too tight in my frame to adjust that way. Even without the shim and the assembly paste. 😢
Why use a gimmick? Why not just ride a suspended bike?
anything for new "technology" 😂 agree a wider tyre is another option instead of this complex thing
I think it’s fun to try new approaches and am glad that we have engineers out there designing new stuff. Some works and some doesn’t. In terms of complexity, this is no where near as complex as a shock. I think it’s a very interesting application of carbon’s unique properties. Same as the Lauf fork, which I’m not interested in but glad they are thinking outside of the box
Ride 200 km on a suspeded bike and compare the time with a gravel bike, you will know the answer.