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An Avid Cyclist
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 24 พ.ค. 2023
Can’t decide which I like more, riding bikes or working on bikes. Follow along and see which wins. 🙂🚴♂️✌️❤️
Will it clog? Fillmore valve vs Silca Sealant
Reserve Fillmore Tubeless “Hi Flow - No Clog” Valve vs Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant
0:00 Intro
0:51 Standard core forensics
1:48 Fillmore valve overview
3:44 Silca foaming
4:20 Spray testing
5:03 Silca Sealant thoughts
5:24 Fillmore forensics
#gravelcycling #mtb
0:00 Intro
0:51 Standard core forensics
1:48 Fillmore valve overview
3:44 Silca foaming
4:20 Spray testing
5:03 Silca Sealant thoughts
5:24 Fillmore forensics
#gravelcycling #mtb
มุมมอง: 16 814
วีดีโอ
SPD M540 pedals - bearing overhaul service - Shimano PD-M540
มุมมอง 3.2K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
DIY/How To service, repair, grease Shimano PD-M540 SPD pedals, step by step. 0:00 Intro 0:30 Separating axle from pedal body 1:17 Disassemble the axle 2:19 Reassemble the axle 4:18 Setting the play 5:34 Back together
My Every Ride Carry (EDC) for gravel cycling in 2023
มุมมอง 2.1Kปีที่แล้ว
If attachment leads to suffering, lose the attachment to your unnecessary things and lighten your load (physically and spiritually!). How I’ve steadily reduced my Every Day Carry (EDC) / Every Ride Carry (ERC) on-bike toolkit to only the bare essentials. 0:00 Previous setup 1:28 2023 setup 3:19 Gram counting 3:51 Honorable Mention 4:05 Caveat #1 4:22 Caveat #2 #gravelbike
Shimano SPD shootout - XTR-9100 vs M540
มุมมอง 12Kปีที่แล้ว
Detailed review of differences between the $180 Shimano XTR PD-9100 and the $80 M540. After this course, the student will be able to discuss the stack, Q, weight and design differences of these 2 models of SPD pedals. It is unclear who these students would actually discuss these things with. 0:00 Intro 0:16 MSRP 0:24 Stack height 0:51 Q factor 1:22 Weights 2:23 Construction 3:05 Wrap-up #gravel...
How to service SPD cleat springs/retention - Shimano XTR PD-M9100
มุมมอง 2.5Kปีที่แล้ว
Detailed DIY/how-to service of the cleat spring retention system on a Shimano XTR PD-M9100 SPD pedal. Tools 2.5mm Hex wrench Torx 10 Grandad’s old Tack Puller Flat head screw driver 0:00 disassembly 3:02 prep 3:48 re-assembly #gravelbike
Is this gravel bike suspension? Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon - Install & Review
มุมมอง 38Kปีที่แล้ว
Detailed install and review of the Ergon CF Allroad Pro Carbon seatpost (previously known as the CF3 aka Canyon VCLS post) for Gravel &/or comfort/endurance bikes. Utilizing their VCLS carbon leaf spring design. Comfort and/or Suspension? Tools used: 4mm Hex wrench Torque wrench 2-15nm (5 & 7 nm settings) Plumb bob Spirit level Yard/Meter stick 0:21 Does it flex? 1:34 Install 7:31 Conclusions #...
SPD pedal squeaking? Quick & cheap fix!!
มุมมอง 6Kปีที่แล้ว
Simple fix for Shimano SPD pedal/cleat squeak
Full service SPD bearing overhaul - Shimano XTR PD-M9100/9120
มุมมอง 10Kปีที่แล้ว
Detailed DIY how-to service of the bearings on a Shimano XTR PD-M9100/9120 SPD pedal. 0:00 Loose spinning before 0:21 Separating axle from pedal body 0:57 Disassemble the axle 2:54 Reassemble the axle 6:43 Setting the play 8:48 Back together 9:48 Post-work re-spin
Vittoria Air Liners review after 150 mile Cascade Gravel Grinder
มุมมอง 1.7Kปีที่แล้ว
Updated review of Air Liner tire inserts after 150 tough miles in the mountains at the 3 day Cascade Gravel Grinder bike / cycling event 0:00 Intro 0:43 You’re going to take some hits 1:24 You can’t always pick your line 2:58 Sometimes there is no good line 3:48 Sometimes there is no line at all 4:30 a long walk home #gravelbike
Installing Vittoria AirLiner Gravel tire liners and early review
มุมมอง 15Kปีที่แล้ว
Detailed installation of Vittoria AirLiner tire inserts for Gravel bike / cycling plus initial review from a couple hundred miles of riding. Tools required: Tire lever(s) Box cutter Small drill bit Zip tie cutters 0:00 why use tire inserts? 0:37 prep’ing the liners 3:06 installing the liners 6:42 comparison with inflated tire 6:56 two hundred mile review #gravelbike
I have a pair of these valves on my mountain bike, which actually have stans valor, carbon wheels. Of course they’re very narrow and I have no problem seating a bead on this wheel set however, I have some hookless wheels on my gravel bike, and mounting tires is a real bear and monster of an ordeal. very time-consuming there must be some dimensions that are off or not the standard. at any rate I’m gonna try to add sealant through the tire and see if I can Seat the bead back on without making a mess or adding to my frustration I would prefer to just do it through the valves, but that might not be possible time will tell.
Excellent video.
I've had my Fillmore's for about 8 months. They are not clogging so much I cannot add air but I am unable to add sealant thru the valve. I took them apart and there is some minor sealant build up. For the price and the eventual clogging I would rather just deal with replacing cores on normal presta setup.
Thank you very much 👍
It took about a year, but eventually I got some build-up in my Filmore valves using Silca sealant. They were still working fine, but I could feel the valve didn't have as much travel as before. Thankfully, you can disassemble the valve and clean it out. Getting all the gunk out was a pain, but I was being extra particular about removing everything. If I only have to do this once a year, I'm happy with the expense. I was cleaning or replacing the standard valves every month or two. The standard ones are cheap, but a constant hassle - to the point I was considering going back to tubes.
Exactly my long-term experience (though I was getting 2-3 months out of a standard valve). I like that the design is fully rebuildable rather than just making the valve core a disposable product. The process is easy enough, just don’t lose that little pin!!
this biggest turn off for me, just seeing this now, i can afford a 19.99 bag of valve cores on amazon so those aren't a big deal but when i used silca the internal of my tubeless would junk up and the reserve don't appear to be as user friendly. i've also swapped from silca from stans and now trying orange as it comes highly recommended from my local rei (was on hand) i've seen some latex on amazon for decent bulk prices in a blue jug as well as american classic tyres for thrifting the cost savings.
Cover your valve core with good lube like Fenwick's chain oil and your valve will not seal.
It would be dandy if they offered replacement parts for the non-metal bits of this system (red grommet at bottom and black o-ring inside).
Well, that would mean not buying a replacement set for >$50!! 🙂 - I have a conical “red grommet” piece from a traditional set of valves and it fit just fine, so at least that should be easy to replace. I imagine that inner o-ring is a standard size, but good luck finding one at Home Depot.
Mine spins freely and I cannot unscrew. What am I doing wrong?
Are you sure the wrench is on the flats? They are kinda subtle but you have to hold the threaded tube in order to unscrew the end cap
@@AnAvidCyclist Thx for your response. I am sure the wrench holds the threads firmly. Nevertheless, whenever the pin spins, I see that the protruding tip in the bottom does not. That is, if it is a unique piece, how can I turn the pin with the hex and the tip on the other side remains still?
@@AnAvidCyclist I hold the threaded part firmly. Sure. When I make the pin spin with my hex, the protruding tip underneath remains still. How can it be if once disassembled it looks like a unique piece?
@@cristobalperezhuertas5362 - I had one out today and was looking at it given your comment here. I’ll try to describe as well as possible. The silver plunger piece is one part from end to end, from the 2.5mm hex end to the other end where you’d press to release air. Assuming you have the black body held well with a 10mm wrench/spanner I see only 3 ways that the silver piece could spin. 1) wrong size hex tool, 2) the hex flats have been rounded/stripped or 3) the silver pin inside that secure’s the long silver plunger has slid out. However unless there was a manufacturer error then if the valve has never been apart before #3 shouldn’t be possible. Hope this helps
@@AnAvidCyclist Thx for your kind help. I finally reached Fillmore and they took my valve under their warranty program.
I've looked for an installation manual, and even contacted Ergon, but they didn't give me a great answer. I'm a shorter rider and I'm tempted to try this on my Road Bike. Do the instructions say what the maximum insertion depth is? I'm afraid with less of the Carbon exposed the carbon leaf springs won't work as well or have much room to move.
I don’t have the post anymore so can’t check the manual. However, I don’t recall a MAX insertion (of course there’s a MIN insertion). But you’re right, mechanically I would expect the leaf springs to have less compliance as you insert more of the post. I replaced with an Enve and then a Thomson carbon post and honestly am not sure that the leaf springs were noticeably better than these carbon posts, so if you’re going to have little exposed post I’d probably recommend skipping the ergon post and just getting a decent carbon post instead. Good luck!
Try selle smp well for a saddle.
Thanks, but I really dislike any saddles with split rails
if you keep your wheels at rest with valve at 4 or 8 o clock position, you will have less of these issues.
I don’t think I possess enough OCD to bother with valve position at rest
@@AnAvidCyclist well have been using road tubeless with zero valve clog issues for 3+ years now
what's the cure for this if the pedals have play? is it new axle assembly time? (basically new pedal time)
Yeah, if there’s bearing play you’ll need to re-adjust the lock screws at the tip of the axle. If you’re doing that you should fully clean and re-grease the bearings and inside the sleeve. Be patient and know that you’ll likely need to adjust it 5’ish times before you get it dialed in just right.
is this seatpost safe for 7liter saddle bags?
You’ll need to check with Ergon on that one
At about minute 6, I went online and purchased new pedals.
Ha! Well yes that is always on option!!
THIS, is how you do an instructional video, every thing I need nothing I don’t!
I recently bought the XTRs to replace my almost 30 year old 737s. The weight comparison was crazy. XTRs were 200g lighter as a pair than the 737s 😮
And compared to other high end parts they aren’t that expensive either
Thank you!
You know what.......I'll stick with a tube..........And just like I'm still sticking with calipers, discs? Not a chance.
It’s great to have choices, would suck if we all rode the same exact bike!
Good, and actually i agree with your lubricant method. So much grease is good for ballbearings, thats give us more water resistense and shorter service interval
extra surfaces to creak excellent 😮
Not sure if you saw, but that’s the purpose of the shim between them. Apparently earlier versions didn’t come with the shim and people were using cardboard, etc. I never experienced any creaking, but it’s probably inevitable as grit will for sure migrate down there. I found it to be a hassle to clean that area, and I’m not one to regularly clean my bike.
@@AnAvidCyclist i did, interesting to see an indepth review anyway
Did you experience any problems mountain this saddle? The instructions say that the distance between the rail guide lines must not exceed 42mm. That's why the saddle doesn't fit on the seat post clamps at all. I'm afraid of bending the rails or that it will break if I force it in there.
My rails measured fine. One challenge I had was because I flipped the head to allow a more forward position. The docs don’t say anything, but you need to flip all 4 of the head pieces, not just the outer 2 pieces. So basically you have to completely disassemble the seat-post. Not sure if you’re running into this exact problem, but figure it was worth calling out. If your saddle rails aren’t standard width, then you are likely in trouble for all seat posts.
Great, clear video. You deserve more views!
good ride man
but if we using sealant with fiber like silca, then the tpu inner tube is no longer useable?
You mean because the fibers would puncture the tube? They aren’t hard/rigid. You can’t even feel them in the mixture, they are like threads. I wouldn’t expect a problem, but thankfully haven’t had a reason to put a tube in!! <knock wood>
Batman
Hi, great video. I took off my pedals and noticed that one of them has a bearing noise. I found your movie and decided to give it a try. I was full of doubts because manual work is not my thing, but you explained everything so clearly and I managed. My pedals are less than a year old, and I can already hear the bearings. It's embarrassing for Shimano, especially considering it's not a cheap company. Anyway, I greased it up as you advised, and when finally tightening it, the grease even squeezed out. So, I guess there's not a millimeter of space inside without grease. Maybe I overdid it?
That’s great! Thanks for the note. No problem with extra grease squeezing out. Better too much than not enough!
Will the Park Tool tire boot work with a tubeless setup? Worried about sealant preventing the boot from sticking. I guess you would use it along with the tpu tube?
No, not designed for tubeless. Would need the tube to help hold it in place
Good clear video.
Why use a gimmick? Why not just ride a suspended bike?
anything for new "technology" 😂 agree a wider tyre is another option instead of this complex thing
I think it’s fun to try new approaches and am glad that we have engineers out there designing new stuff. Some works and some doesn’t. In terms of complexity, this is no where near as complex as a shock. I think it’s a very interesting application of carbon’s unique properties. Same as the Lauf fork, which I’m not interested in but glad they are thinking outside of the box
Ride 200 km on a suspeded bike and compare the time with a gravel bike, you will know the answer.
Hi, i wonder if with a 7kg bikepacking saddle bag could brake it... And since i dont have too much space between my frame and saddle, how much cm need to be out at the frame at the minimim height? Thanks
Probably depends on the rider weight. If there is a weight limit then it’s likely you could find it on the ergon site. As a non-bike-packer I can’t imagine wanting to have a large amount of weight up high and out back like that. At least not if you stand to climb at all
What brand/model torque wrench do you use here?
It’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with different torque ranges and heads. This model does NOT have the ratcheting head which makes the head very small which is great for getting in tight areas. If you’re in the US they have gotten harder to find. Competitive Cyclist and REI both used to carry them, but neither seem to currently. I’ve been very happy with mine and it gets steady use. Good luck
U saved me 200, i aint buyin this contraption Stickin to 28mm tires and just gonna take out a few psi 😂
Go to 30mm and even less PSI! 😁
cant, velominati rules....
@@oOoACFREEMANoOo, ha! Well, just a few years ago, they would have limited to you 21-23mm tires. It’s possible they don’t know what they are doing!! 😮
What about the brooks rails won’t work with this seatpost? The carbon rails on the Cambium carbon saddles are the standard 7x9mm.
Sorry, I was trying to say that the brooks saddle didn’t work for my butt
@@AnAvidCyclist gotcha, I thought that based on your statement in the video. I just wanted to make sure there wants anything structural with the saddle & the post & the saddle & you. Great video, very destructive & concise
You made putting the bearings back appear simple. I always find putting the 11/12 x 2 bearings back really fiddly. Like you, I keep counting to make sure I have not missed one LOL. For most people and times, I think leaving the bearings in place and degreasing in situ and using the process of screwing the spindle home to force new grease into the bearings, to be a much easier, more practical and quicker way to complete this maintenance task. A very reliable pedal design.👌
I agree 100%, but if the play is off, or you just have the need to take things apart, then using some sticky grease and tweezers can help a lot. Do it over a cloth so anything you drop doesn’t roll away!!
Are you still enjoying the Vittoria liners? I'm thinking about installing them for Unbound this year.
Yeah, running them again this year in my bigger tires. Leaves me less worried about running low pressure and damaging carbon rims. The weight cost is pretty minimal so there isn’t much reason not to run them if you have them. IMO, of course!
Good explanation and keeping it simple for beginner riders like me, who fear breakdowns the most
Can these be used with an adapter for a bike with a 30.9 seatpost adapter? or does an adapter interfere with the function of the seatpost?
I don’t know, seems possible since the ends are clamped together
Where did you buy the torque wrench from and how many NM does it go up to? Thx!
I don’t remember where I got it, but it’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with various heads and ranges. Mine has the non-ratcheting head which is absolutely tiny for getting into tight areas. I think it goes to 15nm. It’s been a great purchase, but wasn’t cheap.
Why would they not make them continuous for 700c and show you how to cut them down and use the zip tie for 650b?
I have no idea!!
I have given up getting sealant through a valve and now just fill the tyre with it nearly fitted, then just push the tyre rim over the wheel rim. I change/clean valves every so often.
What do you do with the rest of the wax? Seems like a waste considering how much actually went on the chain. Do you keep it and let it solidify for next time?
I’ve probably waxed at least 10 times so far and it’s still going great. Easily another 10+ left. Kinda depends on how dusty the chain you put in is. Yeah, just turn the pot off and put a lid on it until next time. I got a used crock pot at goodwill.
@@AnAvidCyclistwhen it is dusty, just whipe it first with a cloth and alcohol. If it is really dirty, flush it with boiling water and just wax it again. Wax will be less polluted
@@chrispib or store with the lid on?
I read you can’t add sealant thru the Fillmore valves (ie silcas quarterly replenisher)? If that’s true it’s a deal breaker for me.
Yeah, I imagine you can’t. Since they don’t have a standard removable core, I wouldn’t expect you’d be able to. I’ve just always popped a bead off anyway, so wasn’t an issue for me.
Sealant, including Silca's sealant replenisher, can be injected through the Fillmore valves. As a matter of fact, this is in the Fillmore FAQ on Reserve Wheel's website: "3. Can I add sealant directly through the Fillmore valve? - Yes, you can direct-inject sealant through the valve simply by removing all pressure in the tire and using either a syringe style injector with tube, or cutting the top of the sealant bottle to size. The Fillmore has no valve core to remove or get in the way."
how much clearance do you have between your frame and tires? it looks really close!
I ran a gravelking SK 43mm in the back for several years. It’s probably 3-5mm on each side, but no more than 3 to the seat tube. Would not be good with any mud at all, but most of my events are in the dry part of the PNW so hasn’t been an issue.
new subscriber here. love your video! can you do a bike check on your open gravel bike? thanks!
The frame is very well loved! I like the road like feel of it. One of the primary reasons I chose this frame was for the short seat stays (420mm). I recently heard a rumor that there was an update to the UP coming soon. If true, I’ll seriously consider it depending on what the changes are.
WRT the spray.... dont let the air out with the valve at the top where the sealant puddled in the body ., put it at the bottom so the sealant drains out.
Or buy the fillmore’s and don’t worry about where the valve is positioned when you park the bike!
I have the Fillmore on my Santa Cruz Carbon race wheelset. and a puddle around the valve core still sprays some out. just put the valve at the bottom to let it "un puddle" drain, before you de pressurize. It's not rocket surgery. :)@@AnAvidCyclist
if you add the proper additionitem to the daysaver, you have valvecore remover, tyrelever, chainbreaker and a magnet to hold your chainlink for less space than your current lever.
Thanks but I don’t need a chain breaker or a valve core remover, so the coworking5 doesn’t really interest me
Great video - however I've used Shimano XT/XTR pedals for a couple decades and never bothered to totally disassemble the pedal. Just pack it with marine grease after you take it off and wipe it, thread the pedal back on and loads of old grease will purge on tightening. 5 min job tops.
Agree, definitely an easier choice, and will get the job done in all but the worst conditions. I just happen to be the type of person that always takes things apart. It’s a problem, I know!! 🙂
Thanks--this will help when my new PD-M9100 pedals need service. A suggestion--adding a list of required wrench sizes and the bearings sizes would be helpful.
I actually thought I had that listed in the description. I meant to. Sorry about that. I believe it’s a 15, 8 & 7. But it’s different than their other pedals, so best to be prepared. As for the bearings, they were too small for my Park bearing guide, so I measured them with the caliper. I left it at that since I didn’t want to state a particular size that I wasn’t positive on. Honestly, if the inside is mostly clean, I’d recommend just pushing fresh grease through rather than mess with re-setting the pre-load. Unless there’s play of course!
Re spindle length--I saw one video where the poster said the shorter spindle is intended for bikes with wider 'boost' spacing like fat bikes to compensate for that difference. Nothing to do with better power transfer or more comfortable pedalling position, etc. I just bought the XTRs yesterday, and went with the standard 55mm width.
Q factor (the distance between your feet) can be a bit controversial. I’m in the camp that believes narrow is better. Go run on a beach, as you move from walking to running, and as you speed up, you’ll see that your feet get closer together and eventually follow a single center line. Compare this with using an elliptical machine (which holds your feet at a fixed width) where I always feel like I’m trying to run while straddling a horse. Does a few mm difference matter? I don’t know, but it sure does on my seatpost. So given the choice, I’ll take narrower. YMMV 🙂