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Have been eyeing this one for years, but I could never get past the cost.

Thank you for this, I'm considering a switch to Silca and my current sealant (which is quite good... Muc Off has been a bit better than Orange Seal) is already sealing my valve stems.

Silca sealant with Vittoria airliner inserts is the definition of pure evil. The fact these actially work with silca is a true test.

Works like a charm

Thank you so much for this instruction video. I can reinstall loose bolt and spring with this video.

Well done, thanks. Only thing I'd add,and this applies to all bearings is once they're been used, don't mix and match with other bearings regardless they're the same size. Individual sets will wear to their race evenly, but possibly slightly differently than another set. Axle bearings especially. Keep each set together. Thanks again.

Good video, thanks. I just had my first XT problem In maybe 20 years. The pedal body came away from the axle. I‘ve never opened one up or done any maintenance except external cleaning and oiling. I assume the locknut just unwound itself. Probably time for new pedals and another 20 years will see me out and keep my fingers out of the grease. I do find it surprising that such small bearings can support the load, say 70kgs or more, for such a long and generally reliable service life.

A point often missed: A flex post also gives better GRIP, just like the suspension in a car does: (Reason: The spring mechanism will ‘press’ the bike into the road’s depressions & unevennesses faster than gravity alone would)

I have a pair of these valves on my mountain bike, which actually have stans valor, carbon wheels. Of course they’re very narrow and I have no problem seating a bead on this wheel set however, I have some hookless wheels on my gravel bike, and mounting tires is a real bear and monster of an ordeal. very time-consuming there must be some dimensions that are off or not the standard. at any rate I’m gonna try to add sealant through the tire and see if I can Seat the bead back on without making a mess or adding to my frustration I would prefer to just do it through the valves, but that might not be possible time will tell.

Excellent video.

I've had my Fillmore's for about 8 months. They are not clogging so much I cannot add air but I am unable to add sealant thru the valve. I took them apart and there is some minor sealant build up. For the price and the eventual clogging I would rather just deal with replacing cores on normal presta setup.

Thank you very much 👍

It took about a year, but eventually I got some build-up in my Filmore valves using Silca sealant. They were still working fine, but I could feel the valve didn't have as much travel as before. Thankfully, you can disassemble the valve and clean it out. Getting all the gunk out was a pain, but I was being extra particular about removing everything. If I only have to do this once a year, I'm happy with the expense. I was cleaning or replacing the standard valves every month or two. The standard ones are cheap, but a constant hassle - to the point I was considering going back to tubes.

this biggest turn off for me, just seeing this now, i can afford a 19.99 bag of valve cores on amazon so those aren't a big deal but when i used silca the internal of my tubeless would junk up and the reserve don't appear to be as user friendly. i've also swapped from silca from stans and now trying orange as it comes highly recommended from my local rei (was on hand) i've seen some latex on amazon for decent bulk prices in a blue jug as well as american classic tyres for thrifting the cost savings.

Cover your valve core with good lube like Fenwick's chain oil and your valve will not seal.

It would be dandy if they offered replacement parts for the non-metal bits of this system (red grommet at bottom and black o-ring inside).

Mine spins freely and I cannot unscrew. What am I doing wrong?

I've looked for an installation manual, and even contacted Ergon, but they didn't give me a great answer. I'm a shorter rider and I'm tempted to try this on my Road Bike. Do the instructions say what the maximum insertion depth is? I'm afraid with less of the Carbon exposed the carbon leaf springs won't work as well or have much room to move.

Try selle smp well for a saddle.

if you keep your wheels at rest with valve at 4 or 8 o clock position, you will have less of these issues.

what's the cure for this if the pedals have play? is it new axle assembly time? (basically new pedal time)

is this seatpost safe for 7liter saddle bags?

At about minute 6, I went online and purchased new pedals.

THIS, is how you do an instructional video, every thing I need nothing I don’t!

I recently bought the XTRs to replace my almost 30 year old 737s. The weight comparison was crazy. XTRs were 200g lighter as a pair than the 737s 😮

Thank you!

You know what.......I'll stick with a tube..........And just like I'm still sticking with calipers, discs? Not a chance.

Good, and actually i agree with your lubricant method. So much grease is good for ballbearings, thats give us more water resistense and shorter service interval

extra surfaces to creak excellent 😮

Did you experience any problems mountain this saddle? The instructions say that the distance between the rail guide lines must not exceed 42mm. That's why the saddle doesn't fit on the seat post clamps at all. I'm afraid of bending the rails or that it will break if I force it in there.

Great, clear video. You deserve more views!

good ride man

but if we using sealant with fiber like silca, then the tpu inner tube is no longer useable?

Batman

Hi, great video. I took off my pedals and noticed that one of them has a bearing noise. I found your movie and decided to give it a try. I was full of doubts because manual work is not my thing, but you explained everything so clearly and I managed. My pedals are less than a year old, and I can already hear the bearings. It's embarrassing for Shimano, especially considering it's not a cheap company. Anyway, I greased it up as you advised, and when finally tightening it, the grease even squeezed out. So, I guess there's not a millimeter of space inside without grease. Maybe I overdid it?

Will the Park Tool tire boot work with a tubeless setup? Worried about sealant preventing the boot from sticking. I guess you would use it along with the tpu tube?

Good clear video.

Why use a gimmick? Why not just ride a suspended bike?

Hi, i wonder if with a 7kg bikepacking saddle bag could brake it... And since i dont have too much space between my frame and saddle, how much cm need to be out at the frame at the minimim height? Thanks

What brand/model torque wrench do you use here?

U saved me 200, i aint buyin this contraption Stickin to 28mm tires and just gonna take out a few psi 😂

What about the brooks rails won’t work with this seatpost? The carbon rails on the Cambium carbon saddles are the standard 7x9mm.

You made putting the bearings back appear simple. I always find putting the 11/12 x 2 bearings back really fiddly. Like you, I keep counting to make sure I have not missed one LOL. For most people and times, I think leaving the bearings in place and degreasing in situ and using the process of screwing the spindle home to force new grease into the bearings, to be a much easier, more practical and quicker way to complete this maintenance task. A very reliable pedal design.👌

Are you still enjoying the Vittoria liners? I'm thinking about installing them for Unbound this year.

Good explanation and keeping it simple for beginner riders like me, who fear breakdowns the most

Can these be used with an adapter for a bike with a 30.9 seatpost adapter? or does an adapter interfere with the function of the seatpost?

Where did you buy the torque wrench from and how many NM does it go up to? Thx!

Why would they not make them continuous for 700c and show you how to cut them down and use the zip tie for 650b?

I have given up getting sealant through a valve and now just fill the tyre with it nearly fitted, then just push the tyre rim over the wheel rim. I change/clean valves every so often.

What do you do with the rest of the wax? Seems like a waste considering how much actually went on the chain. Do you keep it and let it solidify for next time?