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Exactly my long-term experience (though I was getting 2-3 months out of a standard valve). I like that the design is fully rebuildable rather than just making the valve core a disposable product. The process is easy enough, just don’t lose that little pin!!

Well, that would mean not buying a replacement set for >$50!! 🙂 - I have a conical “red grommet” piece from a traditional set of valves and it fit just fine, so at least that should be easy to replace. I imagine that inner o-ring is a standard size, but good luck finding one at Home Depot.

Are you sure the wrench is on the flats? They are kinda subtle but you have to hold the threaded tube in order to unscrew the end cap

@@AnAvidCyclist Thx for your response. I am sure the wrench holds the threads firmly. Nevertheless, whenever the pin spins, I see that the protruding tip in the bottom does not. That is, if it is a unique piece, how can I turn the pin with the hex and the tip on the other side remains still?

@@AnAvidCyclist I hold the threaded part firmly. Sure. When I make the pin spin with my hex, the protruding tip underneath remains still. How can it be if once disassembled it looks like a unique piece?

@@cristobalperezhuertas5362 - I had one out today and was looking at it given your comment here. I’ll try to describe as well as possible. The silver plunger piece is one part from end to end, from the 2.5mm hex end to the other end where you’d press to release air. Assuming you have the black body held well with a 10mm wrench/spanner I see only 3 ways that the silver piece could spin. 1) wrong size hex tool, 2) the hex flats have been rounded/stripped or 3) the silver pin inside that secure’s the long silver plunger has slid out. However unless there was a manufacturer error then if the valve has never been apart before #3 shouldn’t be possible. Hope this helps

@@AnAvidCyclist Thx for your kind help. I finally reached Fillmore and they took my valve under their warranty program.

I don’t have the post anymore so can’t check the manual. However, I don’t recall a MAX insertion (of course there’s a MIN insertion). But you’re right, mechanically I would expect the leaf springs to have less compliance as you insert more of the post. I replaced with an Enve and then a Thomson carbon post and honestly am not sure that the leaf springs were noticeably better than these carbon posts, so if you’re going to have little exposed post I’d probably recommend skipping the ergon post and just getting a decent carbon post instead. Good luck!

Thanks, but I really dislike any saddles with split rails

I don’t think I possess enough OCD to bother with valve position at rest

@@AnAvidCyclist well have been using road tubeless with zero valve clog issues for 3+ years now

Yeah, if there’s bearing play you’ll need to re-adjust the lock screws at the tip of the axle. If you’re doing that you should fully clean and re-grease the bearings and inside the sleeve. Be patient and know that you’ll likely need to adjust it 5’ish times before you get it dialed in just right.

You’ll need to check with Ergon on that one

Ha! Well yes that is always on option!!

And compared to other high end parts they aren’t that expensive either

It’s great to have choices, would suck if we all rode the same exact bike!

Not sure if you saw, but that’s the purpose of the shim between them. Apparently earlier versions didn’t come with the shim and people were using cardboard, etc. I never experienced any creaking, but it’s probably inevitable as grit will for sure migrate down there. I found it to be a hassle to clean that area, and I’m not one to regularly clean my bike.

@@AnAvidCyclist i did, interesting to see an indepth review anyway

My rails measured fine. One challenge I had was because I flipped the head to allow a more forward position. The docs don’t say anything, but you need to flip all 4 of the head pieces, not just the outer 2 pieces. So basically you have to completely disassemble the seat-post. Not sure if you’re running into this exact problem, but figure it was worth calling out. If your saddle rails aren’t standard width, then you are likely in trouble for all seat posts.

You mean because the fibers would puncture the tube? They aren’t hard/rigid. You can’t even feel them in the mixture, they are like threads. I wouldn’t expect a problem, but thankfully haven’t had a reason to put a tube in!! <knock wood>

That’s great! Thanks for the note. No problem with extra grease squeezing out. Better too much than not enough!

No, not designed for tubeless. Would need the tube to help hold it in place

anything for new "technology" 😂 agree a wider tyre is another option instead of this complex thing

I think it’s fun to try new approaches and am glad that we have engineers out there designing new stuff. Some works and some doesn’t. In terms of complexity, this is no where near as complex as a shock. I think it’s a very interesting application of carbon’s unique properties. Same as the Lauf fork, which I’m not interested in but glad they are thinking outside of the box

Ride 200 km on a suspeded bike and compare the time with a gravel bike, you will know the answer.

Probably depends on the rider weight. If there is a weight limit then it’s likely you could find it on the ergon site. As a non-bike-packer I can’t imagine wanting to have a large amount of weight up high and out back like that. At least not if you stand to climb at all

It’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with different torque ranges and heads. This model does NOT have the ratcheting head which makes the head very small which is great for getting in tight areas. If you’re in the US they have gotten harder to find. Competitive Cyclist and REI both used to carry them, but neither seem to currently. I’ve been very happy with mine and it gets steady use. Good luck

Go to 30mm and even less PSI! 😁

cant, velominati rules....

@@oOoACFREEMANoOo, ha! Well, just a few years ago, they would have limited to you 21-23mm tires. It’s possible they don’t know what they are doing!! 😮

Sorry, I was trying to say that the brooks saddle didn’t work for my butt

@@AnAvidCyclist gotcha, I thought that based on your statement in the video. I just wanted to make sure there wants anything structural with the saddle & the post & the saddle & you. Great video, very destructive & concise

I agree 100%, but if the play is off, or you just have the need to take things apart, then using some sticky grease and tweezers can help a lot. Do it over a cloth so anything you drop doesn’t roll away!!

Yeah, running them again this year in my bigger tires. Leaves me less worried about running low pressure and damaging carbon rims. The weight cost is pretty minimal so there isn’t much reason not to run them if you have them. IMO, of course!

I don’t know, seems possible since the ends are clamped together

I don’t remember where I got it, but it’s an Effetto Mariposa. They have several models with various heads and ranges. Mine has the non-ratcheting head which is absolutely tiny for getting into tight areas. I think it goes to 15nm. It’s been a great purchase, but wasn’t cheap.

I have no idea!!

I’ve probably waxed at least 10 times so far and it’s still going great. Easily another 10+ left. Kinda depends on how dusty the chain you put in is. Yeah, just turn the pot off and put a lid on it until next time. I got a used crock pot at goodwill.

@@AnAvidCyclistwhen it is dusty, just whipe it first with a cloth and alcohol. If it is really dirty, flush it with boiling water and just wax it again. Wax will be less polluted

@@chrispib or store with the lid on?

Yeah, I imagine you can’t. Since they don’t have a standard removable core, I wouldn’t expect you’d be able to. I’ve just always popped a bead off anyway, so wasn’t an issue for me.

Sealant, including Silca's sealant replenisher, can be injected through the Fillmore valves. As a matter of fact, this is in the Fillmore FAQ on Reserve Wheel's website: "3. Can I add sealant directly through the Fillmore valve? - Yes, you can direct-inject sealant through the valve simply by removing all pressure in the tire and using either a syringe style injector with tube, or cutting the top of the sealant bottle to size. The Fillmore has no valve core to remove or get in the way."

I ran a gravelking SK 43mm in the back for several years. It’s probably 3-5mm on each side, but no more than 3 to the seat tube. Would not be good with any mud at all, but most of my events are in the dry part of the PNW so hasn’t been an issue.

The frame is very well loved! I like the road like feel of it. One of the primary reasons I chose this frame was for the short seat stays (420mm). I recently heard a rumor that there was an update to the UP coming soon. If true, I’ll seriously consider it depending on what the changes are.

Or buy the fillmore’s and don’t worry about where the valve is positioned when you park the bike!

I have the Fillmore on my Santa Cruz Carbon race wheelset. and a puddle around the valve core still sprays some out. just put the valve at the bottom to let it "un puddle" drain, before you de pressurize. It's not rocket surgery. :)@@AnAvidCyclist

Thanks but I don’t need a chain breaker or a valve core remover, so the coworking5 doesn’t really interest me

Agree, definitely an easier choice, and will get the job done in all but the worst conditions. I just happen to be the type of person that always takes things apart. It’s a problem, I know!! 🙂

I actually thought I had that listed in the description. I meant to. Sorry about that. I believe it’s a 15, 8 & 7. But it’s different than their other pedals, so best to be prepared. As for the bearings, they were too small for my Park bearing guide, so I measured them with the caliper. I left it at that since I didn’t want to state a particular size that I wasn’t positive on. Honestly, if the inside is mostly clean, I’d recommend just pushing fresh grease through rather than mess with re-setting the pre-load. Unless there’s play of course!

Q factor (the distance between your feet) can be a bit controversial. I’m in the camp that believes narrow is better. Go run on a beach, as you move from walking to running, and as you speed up, you’ll see that your feet get closer together and eventually follow a single center line. Compare this with using an elliptical machine (which holds your feet at a fixed width) where I always feel like I’m trying to run while straddling a horse. Does a few mm difference matter? I don’t know, but it sure does on my seatpost. So given the choice, I’ll take narrower. YMMV 🙂