Thanks!! Yeah I had been thinking about an engine swap for a while now, and decided to just go ahead and buy an engine the other day. They make kits to drop it right in on these models.
I have a 682 and used it for years. Never had an oil problem with it. I've kept it in my garage after retiring it, replaced only because I had worn out the mowing deck and wanted a wider one, so bought a newer Cub Cadet garden tractor that had been traded in with under 20 hours on it. Seems the previous owner's wife wouldn't use it because it wasn't a John Deere, so I quickly snapped it up when it was traded in. You are making a mistake not putting a Kohler back in yours. You've started a restoration, looks great, so keep it original. I've had a lot of mowers over the years, and the only one I had issues with was a Briggs. It failed to start numerous times so I got rid of it.
Yup. The last of the good ones. I still own a 1993 MTD 18 HP twin. 50 inch mower deck & 48 inch snow blower. I used it for many years on my property.. it was a good tractor.
Yep. The last of the great ones made by international. Some of the mid to late 80s tractors were very good, like the 1811 and the 782D, then there were the super garden tractors like the 2072 I believe.
Where do you get your information on these garden tractors? I've never been mechanically inclined but these seem like a great thing for me to tear down and rebuild/restore.
If you can get an older one with a 1 cylinder Kohler they are really really simple. One with the 3 speed manual which about half are. The 782 starts to get a little more complicated but it still isn't bad. Whatever you buy, get an old service manual off eBay. There is also a lot of info available on the cub cadet forums.
I would consider it, but to get a good one is really tough. Most are in tractors that are nice enough to just keep running or it is a mystery as to what condition they really are in.
There are 2 separate animals here. There is the light duty LAWN TRACTOR which is what you see at Home Depot and Lowes. Then there are the GARDEN TRACTORS which you have to buy from a dealer. How you can tell the difference is to look at the rear wheels. Garden Tractors will use lugnuts as they do earth engaging work. !
Our dealership sold a lot of those 782 models. Very expensive at the time. The first models did have an oil pump, but the oil pickup wasn’t designed for side hills. In addition, the manufacturer put too much sealant on the case half oil galleries, which blocked the oil flow to the rods. Most of those engines didn’t last 50 hours, before they threw a rod. I short blocked all of the first gen engines 782 models.
I have an acre steep sloped yard and gave up on my 12 HP wheel horse for that reason(broken rods because of oil starvation) Bought one of the first Kubota s in this area(diesel) and still does the job after all these years(40) Love your channel.
I got mine from Small Engine Warehouse and it is a drop in kit for the 682 and 782. I am sure you could save a few bucks without the kit but it will just be so quick and easy vs messing around with trying to get everything adapted up right.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Hello From Kentucky; My 682 and 1710 which are both the Yellow/White color scheme have the Kohler Series 2 engine although my 682 Cub originally had the Series 1 engine which failed and a Series 2 engine was installed. Actually, I would love to repower both of my Cubs because the parts for the KT-17 engines are getting harder and harder to find and the parts that are out there tend to be pretty expensive to buy.
I have a 682. The last six digits are 688391. According to what I can find it was built between February 1 and March 1 1981. It has a red aluminum rear end. It has the Kohler KT 17 series 1 engine. My serial number falls into the range of International built tractors. No biggie, but I'm a little confused. The last 682 s/n is 690524. Did they sneak in some aluminum rear ends?
If it is a red rear end, it should be cast iron. The red axle housings that bolt to the rear end are aluminum. Stick a magnet somewhere on the casting and it should stick. It should not stick to the axle housings though. Older cub cadets had cast iron axle housings too. My model 72 rear end looks identical but has the cast iron axle tubes.
Okay. Showing how much I know about stuff I guess. I stuck a magnet on those axle housings you're talking about. I didn't stick it on the rear end casting. I was just calling the whole thing from wheel to wheel the rear end. Thanks for helping to clear that up for me
8:44 The Briggs Vanguard is a very good, well built engine. Much, much better than that Kohler KT-17. I had a 129, 148, both very good tractor's too, and a couple quietlines.
That is what I keep hearing! It is good to have some confidence that it will be much better, and I'm sure I won't smell like smoke anymore after an hour of mowing.
The 104 is in the same model line but has a bigger engine (10hp) and doesn't have the classic round fenders anymore. The 72 was the last to have the round fenders.
Yep, the 982 is very nice, but it is really a "super garden tractor"... But you could definitely make that argument. They are longer/larger and started to bridge the gap to a compact diesel tractor like the international 234 or 244 of the era.
Check the relief valves on the top of the transmission. I had one leaking on this tractor. You can get rebuilt ones on ebay or have yours rebuilt. There is also a cork gasket on the pump that is notorious for leaking but not as notorious as the relief valves. There are manual and automatic valves. Yours likely has automatic. You can see them good enough if you take the tunnel cover off.
The only reason I disagree is because the 1772 exists and its just simply superior. I own both a 1963 Cub Cadet Original and a 2007 Cub Cadet GT2544 (modern version of the 682 with the cast iron rear ends), and used to own a 1989 Cub Cadet 1872 SGT. While I think its obvious the fit and finish on the IH or early CCC machines are better than the later CCC machines. The core parts of the tractor (chassis, transmission, drive shaft, engine, front axle, mule drive, etc…) are still the best in the industry. Its simple, reliable, tride and true since the design has been around since the beginning of the 60s. The frames on the newest shaft driven cubs under MTD/CCC are very very similar to the narrow frame and wide frame machines and even made of a thicker steel than their older cousins. The transmissions in the newer shaft driven cubs are built really tough with a really high end sundstrand/hydrogear hydro pump. They still use a 1 piece steel drive shaft back to the transmission. The new engines today say what you want, are more powerful and will be able to last longer due to the modern advances in engine oils and features like dry sump oil systems and fully pressurized lubrication. I wouldnt personally buy a belt driven Cub Cadet other than the original because its still shaft driven. Buying a belt driven Cub Cadet is like buying a 4 cylinder Mustang or Camaro.
The 1772 was a great tractor but it was made after international sold off cub cadet to MTD, so it is not an "international tractor". I would also consider that one a Super Garden Tractor which puts it into a category of its own, like the 982. The 782D was super awesome also, but also made by MTD. They kept the chassis relatively unchanged through the 80s even when made by MTD but they started making some changes like the rear ends because cast aluminum instead of cast iron and they got rid of the internal brake and went with disc brakes. The engines got better. The magnum 18 was much better than the KT17 used in the last international 782.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Thats a fair point, I still consider the 82 and 72/11 series IH tractors since they are identical to their IH brothers. While MTD doesnt have the greatest reputation for good reason dont get me wrong due to some of their design choices and a lot of their BB store machines are made. But their dealer exclusive machines are really good quality and especially their commercial Cub Cadet lineup of machines are probably the best made commercial mowers in the industry. Personally myself I do not like the aluminum axle housing that MTD/CCC switched to in 1981 when they acquired the brand. The cast iron final drive to me is what Cub Cadet is famous for besides being shaft drive, and just overall being overbuilt compared to anything else out there. But MTD/CCC did introduce things to the Cub Cadet line that IH never would have. Those being diesel power plants, power steering, liquid cooled gas engines, foot controlled hydros, adjustable steering wheel, the new style deep dome stamped decks, diff locks, and shaft driven implements. The 2500 and 3000 series in my opinion are the modern versions of the standard garden tractors and super garden tractors. The 2500s being a shaft driven machine with a gigantic cast iron hydrostatic transmission, with 23 inch rear tires and 16 inch front tires. They had optional electric sleeve hitches and hydraulic powered 30” tillers that were probably some of the best tractor mounted tillers ever made. They had real heavy duty decks, along with Kohler Command engines, cast iron front axles, and twin C-channel frames that were made of a thicker gauge steel than the IH Cub frames were made of. 2500s being all manual made them the 1440 or 682 of their generation. The 3000 series were the super GTs with early models having an aluminum transmission but later models having a cast iron transmission that was pretty much identical to the 2500 series but had a larger hydrostatic pump making them capable of running auxiliary hydraulics. 3000 series GTs could have 3 points, sleeves hitches, optional 2000 rpm rear pto that is very rare, vacuum operated pto clutch, liquid cooled engine option, shaft driven implements, up to 3 hydraulic spools and with the hydraulic tiller, a 4th spool was added to the machine, they could have an FEL (the 2500s can have a johnny bucket or a little green monster FEL once they come out with the FEL for the machine which they said they are going to), up to a 60” deck, diff lock, power steering, power lift. Basically fully loaded GT was your 3000 series, your basic shaft driven GT was the 2500 series. Outside of cub cadet, nobody else but John Deere with their X700 series made a shaft drive garden tractor. They were the last of the old fashioned garden tractors from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Up until 2023 you could get the Cub Cadet XT3 series GTs which were identical to their previous 2000 series and were updated and upgraded in certain areas 2500 series GTs. They had options of diff lock, but had no hydraulics, only electric power steering and lift since the BDU10L pump cant have auxiliary hydraulic output. But they are tough and rugged machines. Not the best fit and finish vs other brands, but the raw parts that make a tractor a tractor is why I personally dont think you can beat any Cub Cadet GT from any generation. They are just built different from anything else ever made. They stuck with what worked for over 60 years but sadly had to stop producing shaft driven GTs due to “not being able to get the parts to build the machines”. Since then stanley black and decker have bought the company and have slowly tried to turn it into a battery powered company. In my opinion they are going to ruin the Cub Cadet brand.
I have the vanguard engine in a 1976 case 446. I am experiencing engine surging problems. I hear this is not unusual. Please use a sediment bowl AND inline filter before you ever start your engine. It's cheap and easy and you will appreciate it after a few tanks of fuel. If nothing else you will know what trash your buying at your local gas station.
I should have done that! I sold an 1810 with a Magnum 18. The engine really wasn't perfect but it was better than the K17 and would have been worth rebuilding and going through.
International built them until 1981, then they sold cub cadet off to MTD. This one is a 1980 with an international serial number and the red cast iron transmission and rear end. MTD made ones have black painted aluminum rear ends.
I spent many hours as a kid on my uncles 782, I loved that thing. And he loved me mowing his lawn, so it was a win win.
Great info! I believe the repower is a good idea.
Thanks!! Yeah I had been thinking about an engine swap for a while now, and decided to just go ahead and buy an engine the other day. They make kits to drop it right in on these models.
Great job restoring them
Nice little tractor friend!
Would love to see some more cub content, whether it be different tractors, restorations, or just informative videos!
I have a 682 and used it for years. Never had an oil problem with it. I've kept it in my garage after retiring it, replaced only because I had worn out the mowing deck and wanted a wider one, so bought a newer Cub Cadet garden tractor that had been traded in with under 20 hours on it. Seems the previous owner's wife wouldn't use it because it wasn't a John Deere, so I quickly snapped it up when it was traded in. You are making a mistake not putting a Kohler back in yours. You've started a restoration, looks great, so keep it original.
I've had a lot of mowers over the years, and the only one I had issues with was a Briggs. It failed to start numerous times so I got rid of it.
The AG tires totally changes the look of this tractor.
Yup. The last of the good ones.
I still own a 1993 MTD 18 HP twin. 50 inch mower deck & 48 inch snow blower. I used it for many years on my property.. it was a good tractor.
Yep. The last of the great ones made by international. Some of the mid to late 80s tractors were very good, like the 1811 and the 782D, then there were the super garden tractors like the 2072 I believe.
Where do you get your information on these garden tractors? I've never been mechanically inclined but these seem like a great thing for me to tear down and rebuild/restore.
If you can get an older one with a 1 cylinder Kohler they are really really simple. One with the 3 speed manual which about half are. The 782 starts to get a little more complicated but it still isn't bad. Whatever you buy, get an old service manual off eBay. There is also a lot of info available on the cub cadet forums.
Could you put a good KT17 series 2 in it and keep it closer to the original?
I would consider it, but to get a good one is really tough. Most are in tractors that are nice enough to just keep running or it is a mystery as to what condition they really are in.
My dad's got a bunch of John Deere lawn tractors and I've never seen any other than John Deere so this is interesting
Thanks! I would love to learn more about John Deere garden tractors of the era. Although if I learn too much I may want one.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike if you where to I'd suggest a John Deere 300 series. I personally have a 1978 John Deere 316K it's a good solid unit.
There are 2 separate animals here. There is the light duty LAWN TRACTOR which is what you see at Home Depot and Lowes. Then there are the GARDEN TRACTORS which you have to buy from a dealer. How you can tell the difference is to look at the rear wheels. Garden Tractors will use lugnuts as they do earth engaging work.
!
Our dealership sold a lot of those 782 models. Very expensive at the time.
The first models did have an oil pump, but the oil pickup wasn’t designed for side hills. In addition, the manufacturer put too much sealant on the case half oil galleries, which blocked the oil flow to the rods. Most of those engines didn’t last 50 hours, before they threw a rod. I short blocked all of the first gen engines 782 models.
I have an acre steep sloped yard and gave up on my 12 HP wheel horse for that reason(broken rods because of oil starvation) Bought one of the first Kubota s in this area(diesel) and still does the job after all these years(40) Love your channel.
I want to see the repower process
I hope to find time this week for the engine swap! I'll try to get a video on that out in the next couple weeks.
I have a 682 with series-1 I use. Burns a bit of oil. Thinking of doing the same with a vanguard if it gets worse.
I got mine from Small Engine Warehouse and it is a drop in kit for the 682 and 782. I am sure you could save a few bucks without the kit but it will just be so quick and easy vs messing around with trying to get everything adapted up right.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Hello From Kentucky; My 682 and 1710 which are both the Yellow/White color scheme have the Kohler Series 2 engine although my 682 Cub originally had the Series 1 engine which failed and a Series 2 engine was installed. Actually, I would love to repower both of my Cubs because the parts for the KT-17 engines are getting harder and harder to find and the parts that are out there tend to be pretty expensive to buy.
I also have a 782 with the series 2. like it but running out of things to do with it.
I love my 782.
They really are great tractors! Do you have the KT17 series 2?
Ya my 682 I bought for 200.00 and it came with rolltiler and cart wheel weights plow and mower deck
Wow, that is a steal!
I have several. Vintage cub cadets My fav. Is 169
Repower that with the vanguard is a great idea I have a vanguard in my ferris mower great engine
Thanks! I imagine it will be quieter, more fuel efficient, and more pleasant to mow with.
I have a yellow and white 982 that's in pretty good shape. Don't know how rare that is.
I think those are pretty rare. The 982 is rare and probably one or two in ten were yellow/white
Machine Tooling & Dowling made some pretty good Tractors!
YEP! WE HAVE CAME TO ERA OF HEY WHERE DID MY GRAND PARENTS GARDEN TRACTOR GO! FOND MEMORIES!
Ive got a 105 a 1650 and a 2182 in my lineup.
I have a 682. The last six digits are 688391. According to what I can find it was built between February 1 and March 1 1981. It has a red aluminum rear end. It has the Kohler KT 17 series 1 engine. My serial number falls into the range of International built tractors. No biggie, but I'm a little confused. The last 682 s/n is 690524. Did they sneak in some aluminum rear ends?
If it is a red rear end, it should be cast iron. The red axle housings that bolt to the rear end are aluminum. Stick a magnet somewhere on the casting and it should stick. It should not stick to the axle housings though. Older cub cadets had cast iron axle housings too. My model 72 rear end looks identical but has the cast iron axle tubes.
Okay. Showing how much I know about stuff I guess. I stuck a magnet on those axle housings you're talking about. I didn't stick it on the rear end casting. I was just calling the whole thing from wheel to wheel the rear end. Thanks for helping to clear that up for me
8:44 The Briggs Vanguard is a very good, well built engine. Much, much better than that Kohler KT-17. I had a 129, 148, both very good tractor's too, and a couple quietlines.
That is what I keep hearing! It is good to have some confidence that it will be much better, and I'm sure I won't smell like smoke anymore after an hour of mowing.
My dad has a cub cadet 104. How do those compare to a 72? Is one any better?
The 104 is in the same model line but has a bigger engine (10hp) and doesn't have the classic round fenders anymore. The 72 was the last to have the round fenders.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike aside from the engine and fenders, are they they same?
i was going to say something about the diesel until you said something because my profile pic is my 1512 and its a beast
IH built a cotton picker, also the 782, at the same time.
There was a 982. I have a 782.
Yep, the 982 is very nice, but it is really a "super garden tractor"... But you could definitely make that argument. They are longer/larger and started to bridge the gap to a compact diesel tractor like the international 234 or 244 of the era.
Make some video's on hydraulic leaks on cubs, I could use some pointers.
Check the relief valves on the top of the transmission. I had one leaking on this tractor. You can get rebuilt ones on ebay or have yours rebuilt. There is also a cork gasket on the pump that is notorious for leaking but not as notorious as the relief valves. There are manual and automatic valves. Yours likely has automatic. You can see them good enough if you take the tunnel cover off.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike yes sir thank you, I have a leak coming from the steering column right now and haven't ventured off into that headache yet.
The only reason I disagree is because the 1772 exists and its just simply superior. I own both a 1963 Cub Cadet Original and a 2007 Cub Cadet GT2544 (modern version of the 682 with the cast iron rear ends), and used to own a 1989 Cub Cadet 1872 SGT. While I think its obvious the fit and finish on the IH or early CCC machines are better than the later CCC machines. The core parts of the tractor (chassis, transmission, drive shaft, engine, front axle, mule drive, etc…) are still the best in the industry. Its simple, reliable, tride and true since the design has been around since the beginning of the 60s. The frames on the newest shaft driven cubs under MTD/CCC are very very similar to the narrow frame and wide frame machines and even made of a thicker steel than their older cousins. The transmissions in the newer shaft driven cubs are built really tough with a really high end sundstrand/hydrogear hydro pump. They still use a 1 piece steel drive shaft back to the transmission. The new engines today say what you want, are more powerful and will be able to last longer due to the modern advances in engine oils and features like dry sump oil systems and fully pressurized lubrication. I wouldnt personally buy a belt driven Cub Cadet other than the original because its still shaft driven. Buying a belt driven Cub Cadet is like buying a 4 cylinder Mustang or Camaro.
The 1772 was a great tractor but it was made after international sold off cub cadet to MTD, so it is not an "international tractor". I would also consider that one a Super Garden Tractor which puts it into a category of its own, like the 982. The 782D was super awesome also, but also made by MTD. They kept the chassis relatively unchanged through the 80s even when made by MTD but they started making some changes like the rear ends because cast aluminum instead of cast iron and they got rid of the internal brake and went with disc brakes. The engines got better. The magnum 18 was much better than the KT17 used in the last international 782.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Thats a fair point, I still consider the 82 and 72/11 series IH tractors since they are identical to their IH brothers. While MTD doesnt have the greatest reputation for good reason dont get me wrong due to some of their design choices and a lot of their BB store machines are made. But their dealer exclusive machines are really good quality and especially their commercial Cub Cadet lineup of machines are probably the best made commercial mowers in the industry. Personally myself I do not like the aluminum axle housing that MTD/CCC switched to in 1981 when they acquired the brand. The cast iron final drive to me is what Cub Cadet is famous for besides being shaft drive, and just overall being overbuilt compared to anything else out there. But MTD/CCC did introduce things to the Cub Cadet line that IH never would have. Those being diesel power plants, power steering, liquid cooled gas engines, foot controlled hydros, adjustable steering wheel, the new style deep dome stamped decks, diff locks, and shaft driven implements. The 2500 and 3000 series in my opinion are the modern versions of the standard garden tractors and super garden tractors. The 2500s being a shaft driven machine with a gigantic cast iron hydrostatic transmission, with 23 inch rear tires and 16 inch front tires. They had optional electric sleeve hitches and hydraulic powered 30” tillers that were probably some of the best tractor mounted tillers ever made. They had real heavy duty decks, along with Kohler Command engines, cast iron front axles, and twin C-channel frames that were made of a thicker gauge steel than the IH Cub frames were made of. 2500s being all manual made them the 1440 or 682 of their generation. The 3000 series were the super GTs with early models having an aluminum transmission but later models having a cast iron transmission that was pretty much identical to the 2500 series but had a larger hydrostatic pump making them capable of running auxiliary hydraulics. 3000 series GTs could have 3 points, sleeves hitches, optional 2000 rpm rear pto that is very rare, vacuum operated pto clutch, liquid cooled engine option, shaft driven implements, up to 3 hydraulic spools and with the hydraulic tiller, a 4th spool was added to the machine, they could have an FEL (the 2500s can have a johnny bucket or a little green monster FEL once they come out with the FEL for the machine which they said they are going to), up to a 60” deck, diff lock, power steering, power lift. Basically fully loaded GT was your 3000 series, your basic shaft driven GT was the 2500 series. Outside of cub cadet, nobody else but John Deere with their X700 series made a shaft drive garden tractor. They were the last of the old fashioned garden tractors from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Up until 2023 you could get the Cub Cadet XT3 series GTs which were identical to their previous 2000 series and were updated and upgraded in certain areas 2500 series GTs. They had options of diff lock, but had no hydraulics, only electric power steering and lift since the BDU10L pump cant have auxiliary hydraulic output. But they are tough and rugged machines. Not the best fit and finish vs other brands, but the raw parts that make a tractor a tractor is why I personally dont think you can beat any Cub Cadet GT from any generation. They are just built different from anything else ever made. They stuck with what worked for over 60 years but sadly had to stop producing shaft driven GTs due to “not being able to get the parts to build the machines”. Since then stanley black and decker have bought the company and have slowly tried to turn it into a battery powered company. In my opinion they are going to ruin the Cub Cadet brand.
I have the vanguard engine in a 1976 case 446.
I am experiencing engine surging problems.
I hear this is not unusual.
Please use a sediment bowl AND inline filter before you ever start your engine.
It's cheap and easy and you will appreciate it after a few tanks of fuel.
If nothing else you will know what trash your buying at your local gas station.
I repowered my 782 with an M-18.
I should have done that! I sold an 1810 with a Magnum 18. The engine really wasn't perfect but it was better than the K17 and would have been worth rebuilding and going through.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike😢
Hey dude International didn't build that MTD did
International built them until 1981, then they sold cub cadet off to MTD. This one is a 1980 with an international serial number and the red cast iron transmission and rear end. MTD made ones have black painted aluminum rear ends.
MTD bought Cub out and not worth buying in my opinion.
My wheel horse b80 will outwork any cub cadet
MTD=Made To Die!
When mtd took over they went downhill
A TORO DEAER TOLD ME- THE INDUSTRY DOES NOT MAKE A( GARDEN) TRACTOR ANY MORE! SORRY! THATS WHY THESE GOLDEN OLDIES ARE RED LINING!
MTD. "Kinda junky"? MTD is trash!
when mtd took cub over they wasnt, definitely upgraded
maybe it was great cause it was not made in China...