Ross, your explanation of chain lengths having an effect on timing of the baler is correct. You were also correct to point out the importance of maintaining the chains first at the front of the baler in addition to any other chains for packer fork or needle timing. I would also add always double check your work by turning the baler by hand through another cycle and double check the timing of the packer fork to plunger and the plunger to needles before going to the field. Packer fork to plunger timing must be correct so the plunger and packer fork do not hit. In addition, packer fork to plunger timing it is critical to the capacity of the baler and to bale shape. And always when working around a square baler verify that the plunger safety latch is in working order.
Thank you Ross for the explanation on square bailer timing, as that being one piece of machinery we did not have, we just hired bailing done so I had no experience with that subject. Thanks for your input on the subject
Great explanation! I love mechanical devices like balers or combines or anything that has moving parts I could watch them for hours! Great Video! I remember having a 224WS baler broke the shear pin on the wire tie drive shaft my Uncle could not understand the timing relation of the plunger vs the needles I was about 16 at the time and I suppose my opinion didn't amount to much, he eventually gave up and left while he was gone I read the book and was able to get it in time. When he got back he was surprised that it was working! BTW I still have that baler and used it a few years ago.
What you said about your Baylor in the guy with the belts that kept throwing off when you put corn to it was very very interesting that was definitely knowledge I did not know and will use in my future
You are correct as far as I understand it. In fact if you take a link out of the tight/work side you would think it would go back in time naturally when it rolled to the slack side. Now if it was like and engine timing chain where there is a colored link to match a painted mark on a cam gear and or crank gear I can see it being out of time regardless of where you pull a link out. Another words if the baler don't call for x amount of links between mark gears then it don't matter. The gears are fixed so they are all ways the same distance apart, so if the gears are not marked specificly then the needles or plunger will have to be in a specific position to time it. Now this is my opinion and a good chance I don't know my ass from a hole in the wall. But it was interesting enough to add my two cents and I do mean 2 cents!
If that would happen to my 14T bailer, it would be hauled to you u and wait my turn and ur time to get it done “more better” by the man of “making things more better”!!! 100%
I think about the only time you'll get into trouble shortening or lengthening a chain is in a timing chain situation where there's no idlers. Basically a fixed chain length set up
Most of the New Holland balers have a safety latch dog that stops the plunger if the needle enters the chamber at the wrong time. BUT it is still not fool proof and you need to check operation of safety. In my case years ago i bought a real sharp 273 NH from an estate auction. It had been a year or more for the relatives to agree on settlement. For what ever reason they had left all the equipment out. The safety latch mechanism got sticky and was slow, bang two needles went to balor heaven. Then they were $175 ea. In 80's dollars. I was very sad.
I think it could make a difference over time. A belt is used to transfer power from one pully to another. A chain is designed not to slip as a belt could. I think of a chain as a flexible gear if that makes sense. Over a certain number of revolutions of the system the ratio between sprockets will change. If the difference is less than the distance of the sprocket pitch it may take along time to make a noticable ratio change..but if it is more the fail of the system could be much sooner..in my opinion..
The hydraulic pressure relief valve on a 1365 is located on the left side of the hydraulic housing with a horizontal orientation under the operator's seat. If you follow the pressure line from the hydraulic pump to the hydraulic housing the relief valve is located directly under the line connection. The relief valve assembly will have two flat sides that you can use a wrench to remove it from the front of the housing. Take care when removing the relief valve as there will be a copper crush washer on the end of the relief valve. That copper washer is important to sealing the end of the relief valve to the housing.
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Your explanation of chain timing makes perfect sense. Good job Ross.
Ross, your explanation of chain lengths having an effect on timing of the baler is correct. You were also correct to point out the importance of maintaining the chains first at the front of the baler in addition to any other chains for packer fork or needle timing.
I would also add always double check your work by turning the baler by hand through another cycle and double check the timing of the packer fork to plunger and the plunger to needles before going to the field.
Packer fork to plunger timing must be correct so the plunger and packer fork do not hit. In addition, packer fork to plunger timing it is critical to the capacity of the baler and to bale shape.
And always when working around a square baler verify that the plunger safety latch is in working order.
Thank you Ross for the explanation on square bailer timing, as that being one piece of machinery we did not have, we just hired bailing done so I had no experience with that subject. Thanks for your input on the subject
Great explanation! I love mechanical devices like balers or combines or anything that has moving parts I could watch them for hours! Great Video! I remember having a 224WS baler broke the shear pin on the wire tie drive shaft my Uncle could not understand the timing relation of the plunger vs the needles I was about 16 at the time and I suppose my opinion didn't amount to much, he eventually gave up and left while he was gone I read the book and was able to get it in time. When he got back he was surprised that it was working! BTW I still have that baler and used it a few years ago.
Interesting video Ross
What you said about your Baylor in the guy with the belts that kept throwing off when you put corn to it was very very interesting that was definitely knowledge I did not know and will use in my future
great video
You are correct as far as I understand it. In fact if you take a link out of the tight/work side you would think it would go back in time naturally when it rolled to the slack side. Now if it was like and engine timing chain where there is a colored link to match a painted mark on a cam gear and or crank gear I can see it being out of time regardless of where you pull a link out. Another words if the baler don't call for x amount of links between mark gears then it don't matter. The gears are fixed so they are all ways the same distance apart, so if the gears are not marked specificly then the needles or plunger will have to be in a specific position to time it. Now this is my opinion and a good chance I don't know my ass from a hole in the wall. But it was interesting enough to add my two cents and I do mean 2 cents!
If that would happen to my 14T bailer, it would be hauled to you u and wait my turn and ur time to get it done “more better” by the man of “making things more better”!!! 100%
I think about the only time you'll get into trouble shortening or lengthening a chain is in a timing chain situation where there's no idlers. Basically a fixed chain length set up
Most of the New Holland balers have a safety latch dog that stops the plunger if the needle enters the chamber at the wrong time. BUT it is still not fool proof and you need to check operation of safety. In my case years ago i bought a real sharp 273 NH from an estate auction. It had been a year or more for the relatives to agree on settlement. For what ever reason they had left all the equipment out. The safety latch mechanism got sticky and was slow, bang two needles went to balor heaven. Then they were $175 ea. In 80's dollars. I was very sad.
I think it could make a difference over time. A belt is used to transfer power from one pully to another. A chain is designed not to slip as a belt could. I think of a chain as a flexible gear if that makes sense. Over a certain number of revolutions of the system the ratio between sprockets will change. If the difference is less than the distance of the sprocket pitch it may take along time to make a noticable ratio change..but if it is more the fail of the system could be much sooner..in my opinion..
I know, you can post a vid of the discussion with yourself and viewers about if there’s a pressure relief valve on 1365 hydraulic systems.😊😊
The hydraulic pressure relief valve on a 1365 is located on the left side of the hydraulic housing with a horizontal orientation under the operator's seat.
If you follow the pressure line from the hydraulic pump to the hydraulic housing the relief valve is located directly under the line connection. The relief valve assembly will have two flat sides that you can use a wrench to remove it from the front of the housing. Take care when removing the relief valve as there will be a copper crush washer on the end of the relief valve. That copper washer is important to sealing the end of the relief valve to the housing.
I always talk to myself who else can you trust can I always get the answer I want