Wonderful job!!! I winterize a carriage house annually and made many of the mistakes you pointed out. Don't forget to remove the mixer valves from from one handle bath fixtures. An $80 mistake I made one year. We have a washing machine that I need to winterize. I'm worried about the water intake valves (possibly solenoid) are there any solutions other than removing them which would be a real pain! Adding an air compressor inlet fitting is a great idea. Thanks.
You are awesome. I wish you could just come to my camp because it is well water and the pipes are plastic coming from the well to te camp. Ugh... where are you located???
I also work at a camp with over 30 cabins 2 big dorms, a massive main lodge, a min lodge 4 larger cabins. A Pavillion. And it's all fed water from the lake through an elaborate water filtration system.and it is a pain to winterize. Also I am in Canada where it gets real cold so it must be done right wish I could have you ad an extra hand lol. Good video and love how you take the time to reply to comments.
Really great video. Question, Got a 650 SF cottage. water heater, I bath room, kitchen sink. no dishwasher, RO system, ice maker. a plumber is telling me I need 15 gals of antifreeze. why? is it because they want to fill all the lines under the house (which are PVC)?doesn't that run all into my dry well?
I think your guess is correct... That's he's going to pump your entire supply lines with antifreeze. But personally I wouldn't use antifreeze (even RV antifreeze) in anything drinkable! Just make sure you flush everything out good in the spring. With the devices you told me, for the PVC drains only, seems like a gallon of antifreeze would be needed.
I don't use a transfer pump... I just gravity drain the pipes and then pressurize the entire system with air to blow it dry. If you did use a transfer pump just get one that puts out enough head pressure to reach the highest point in your system.
WATER BREAKER OFF THEN USE UP HOT WATER CHECKLISTS AND OR PHOTOS can be PRINTED IN A BINDER for detailed instructions SHOP-VAC, SPONGE, BUCKET FOR TOILET RESERVE SOME WATER IN A BUCKET TO WASH HANDS I always turn off the electrical breaker to the water heater just before I take the last shower and do a load of laundry to not waste it and use the hot water for dishes or cleaning. Cold water will go into the tank only so you do not have hot water damaging the drain garden hose either. My Dad always used to do the winterizing but after he died, it was left for me to do and he often did it by himself. The cottage also had a tourism business attached to it, so more things to do. He had some notes, but I then improved on them by doing a detailed checklist for the order to do things. No OOPSES or going up and down stairs back to each area if you follow that checklist instead of relying on your memory. It only gets done once a year so easy to forget. You can also take photos of each step and put them in a binder or flash drive for anyone else to do the job in case you are sick or unavailable when it needs to be done. That way nothing gets missed or done out of sequence. Yes, having the breaker on for the water tank and no water in the tank would completely ruin the heating element in seconds. That anti-freeze is really cheap, so I always use more to be sure. I also unscrew the little shut-off valve area hoses to sinks and toilet and leave the shut-offs open and disconnected too. One trick I learned with the toilet bowl remaining water is to get a big bucket of water and pour a steady stream into the bowl and keep raising the bucket. The force will push more water out of the toilet bowl. Plunger, sponge, and shop vac work too. I have a smaller shop vac to get the last of the water out of the toilet bowl and tank but have also used a big sponge and gloves to squeeze the last of the water into a bucket. I have seen where some people put clingy saran wrap over the top of the toilet bowl and lower the seat and lid on that to keep it from evaporating, but I never bothered since I used more antifreeze. Giggling here with your cup use. I can tell you are not the experienced cook in the family... unnecessary to pour antifreeze into a cup - just go directly where it has to go. Sorry to make fun, but you really do need that checklist because I can see your gears turning trying to remember the order of the steps to take. I have to do mine in the next 2 days because it gets really cold by early November here. I don't get sick, but you never know, so not leaving it to the very last minute.
You definitely are a pro. I got a lot of good ideas from your comments... thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I'll have to try that lifting bucket in the next few weeks. You're right about a binder/pictures/photos... I've winterized this for 10 years and have to remember the process every time! So that's why I made this video... for myself and my kids (to take over). Yes, it is humorous about me measuring out the antifreeze with a cup, but on a serious note, most people don't know how much antifreeze to blindly pour down a trap, and before you know it the antifreeze jug is out and you're 20 miles to the nearest supply store. Knowing what I've learned from you, I bet you have a case of antifreeze in reserve! I've never measured out the antifreeze before this video, btw :) But I've never seen anyone discuss the amount needed, especially for a toilet.
@@davidpatrick3533 Haha. Hope I didn't sound too snooty about the cup measuring. I watch videos like yours to get ideas on a better way to do things. There is always something to be learned from someone. I realize also that you were trying to demonstrate how much antifreeze is needed in different parts as directly pouring into a sink or toilet is harder to tell how much was used from looking at the bottle. I used to haul the washing machines into the cabin from an unheated porch, but I'm in my 70s now and older commercial machines are heavier than household ones. I made a ramp but it had to be steep to fit over the two steps up to the inside. I finally clued in to leave the machines in the porch and antifreeze them after 3 years of that. What an improvement and treat on my back and arms. That hand truck system was a challenge. My Dad had the strength to do that every year and when I got stuck with the job, I finally switched to antifreeze and left them in place. That's when I did research on how much antifreeze was needed for a washer and was not about to scrimp and ruin the machines with too little protection. Every video had a different thought on how much was needed. You're right that I have a lot of antifreeze on hand now. I'm on a remote island and finally, a little marine store here stocks RV antifreeze now. We only have that shop and a tiny grocery store. Last year I got caught short because a tourist assumed I was too lazy to hook up one washer and decided to reconnect the two water hoses and electrical outlet that was wrapped around the coin slide to indicate it was out of order. I have to do my own repairs too and I had enough working machines that I could procrastinate in fixing it. I still can't imagine that he actually couldn't understand the concept that an unplugged machine was out of order (until I could print up a sign for it) and put his laundry into the machine that was full of antifreeze but not visible since it was well below the basket holes. I had just enough to barely winterize it again. Today I actually bought more so I had enough in case that ever happened again. The store is down to one container again after I left today! Good to have your video for your own records, but I don't even have a cell phone (dead zone area in my spot), and the way technology changes, have a small camera but print versions never go out of style. I can print out the latest checklist every year so things are done in order to speed up the process. Lovely 'cottage' by the way!
I like your philosophy that there's always something to learn. Speaking of that, I'm curious on how you winterize your clothes washing machines? We just installed one last year so I'm new to that and not sure if I'm doing it properly. Thanks so much for any insight.
@@davidpatrick3533 Commercial washers are different than home versions because of different setting options. I have to force the machine to stop draining early by unplugging it from the electrical outlet but home versions can be stopped by pressing a stop/off button. Home version: remove the drain hose hook and lower it to ground level to get rid of as much water from inside the machine into a bucket on its side or rag towels to drain as much from the hose as you can. Maybe use a shop vac to catch that water? Turn off water shut off taps to hoses. Disconnect and lower the two water hoses to ground level also to drain as much water out of those. 'Hook up' that drain hose only again. Set machine to Drain and Spin. Usually, there isn't much water draining now anyway since you didn't really have a load to spin any water from. Drain and spin does not need any water to go into the machine, but commercial machine sometimes has the occasional spray at the end of a regular wash cycle - usually no drain and spin only option with those. I use a minimum of half a bottle to a full bottle of RV antifreeze at least to be extra safe, even 1.5 bottles if it really gets cold and your machine is new (worth the cost to be sure). Near the end of that spin cycle pour the antifreeze into the basket, close lid, and immediately lift the drain hook to see the pink START to drain out. Stop the machine from draining some more by pressing the off button or unplugging the machine (as I have to do with a commercial machine as it will not let you stop mid-cycle by turning it off). You are aiming to keep a lot of the antifreeze in the machine under the basket, in the pump, and also in the bottom of the hook drain hose. Lid closed and unplugged from electrical with hoses low to the ground but I keep drain hook on so it keeps some antifreeze at the bottom of that hose. Once full water to place is shut off, I open the shut-off taps again to those disconnected water hoses. Can also throw old blankets over the machine if you want These are my methods only and have not researched how others really do it. I'm just using some common sense and caution. Edit: I do not have my machines inside a cottage where they would be better protected, but in an enclosed uninsulated porch (with door and clear roofing) only). Our winters do not get colder than -10 C (14 F) though.
You should have two drip legs on your electric water heater. Make sure the pipe going to the water heater is empty and then open the valves on the drip legs. If you can you can put a air compressor quick connect on one of the drip legs and hook your compressor to it and blow it out but be careful not to run it too long because it will turn the pump inside and you don’t want to damage that.
Good question! I don't because that connection gravity feeds down through the hose and valve. But if you're cottage isn't set up that way, it won't hurt to unscrew it and have a cup handle to capture the little water.
@@davidpatrick3533 Thank you. I believe it is a gravity feed except for the horizontal pipe that goes into the wall from the toilet shutoff valve. I turned off water to the bathroom at the hydrant outside and opened drain valve there, with toilet shutoff valve open, so that would drain the little inlet tube, wouldn’t it?
I assume you are referring to a portable tire inflator. If so, it cannot supply the volume of air required to clear 1/2" water lines. You will need to have a compressor that can supply at least 3-4 cfm to clear your lines.
I live in a small rural community in the northeast where most of the homes are seasonal, And It amazes me how completely useless most people are when it comes to basic property maintenance on the house they own.
Yes, good idea. If your plumbing system has them, then you should for sure open them up. This cottage doesn't have valves with bleeders. My only "bleeder" valves were those CPVC valves outside where I started. Everything else slopes downward to those points.
Usually we drain our water lines because you don't want to run heat in the winter meaning the boiler would be off. We winterize our cottage because we don't use it in the winter. If you leave your boiler on then perhaps you don't need to drain your pipes. However, if you want to drain your house water but keep your boiler on at a low temperature, it is possible to drain the entire house, but leave the boiler loop filled. Usually the boiler has a separate loop of water and only needs makeup water if there is a leak. Some people put an additional pressure tank on a boiler loop if it's not connected to the water supply. This pressure tank will maintain pressure in the system and provide a minimal amount of makeup water as needed. For this, you probably want to have a professional install it :) good luck!
Thank you so much for this! Very helpful! Great video!
Wonderful job!!!
I winterize a carriage house annually and made many of the mistakes you pointed out. Don't forget to remove the mixer valves from from one handle bath fixtures. An $80 mistake I made one year. We have a washing machine that I need to winterize. I'm worried about the water intake valves (possibly solenoid) are there any solutions other than removing them which would be a real pain! Adding an air compressor inlet fitting is a great idea. Thanks.
Very helpful video - thank you!
great video, thanks! fyi my understanding is pex deteriorates when exposed to sun, looked like you had a line of pex outdoors…
Good point and observation! I should protect that Pex from UV with a covering.
You are awesome. I wish you could just come to my camp because it is well water and the pipes are plastic coming from the well to te camp. Ugh... where are you located???
ha. Thanks! Just trying to help out and using the video to train another family member to help me out :) I'm in Geneva, NY
I also work at a camp with over 30 cabins 2 big dorms, a massive main lodge, a min lodge 4 larger cabins. A Pavillion. And it's all fed water from the lake through an elaborate water filtration system.and it is a pain to winterize. Also I am in Canada where it gets real cold so it must be done right wish I could have you ad an extra hand lol. Good video and love how you take the time to reply to comments.
What about if you do not have washer. How do you air the air? Thanks!
Really great video. Question, Got a 650 SF cottage. water heater, I bath room, kitchen sink. no dishwasher, RO system, ice maker. a plumber is telling me I need 15 gals of antifreeze. why? is it because they want to fill all the lines under the house (which are PVC)?doesn't that run all into my dry well?
I think your guess is correct... That's he's going to pump your entire supply lines with antifreeze. But personally I wouldn't use antifreeze (even RV antifreeze) in anything drinkable! Just make sure you flush everything out good in the spring. With the devices you told me, for the PVC drains only, seems like a gallon of antifreeze would be needed.
I only put antifreeze in my drains and toilets.
What size transfer pump do you use. Wondering how powerful of one I need to purchase. Thanks. Great video.
I don't use a transfer pump... I just gravity drain the pipes and then pressurize the entire system with air to blow it dry. If you did use a transfer pump just get one that puts out enough head pressure to reach the highest point in your system.
Nice job and great information I hope you don't use that towel again after a shower.
WATER BREAKER OFF THEN USE UP HOT WATER
CHECKLISTS AND OR PHOTOS can be PRINTED IN A BINDER for detailed instructions
SHOP-VAC, SPONGE, BUCKET FOR TOILET
RESERVE SOME WATER IN A BUCKET TO WASH HANDS
I always turn off the electrical breaker to the water heater just before I take the last shower and do a load of laundry to not waste it and use the hot water for dishes or cleaning. Cold water will go into the tank only so you do not have hot water damaging the drain garden hose either.
My Dad always used to do the winterizing but after he died, it was left for me to do and he often did it by himself. The cottage also had a tourism business attached to it, so more things to do. He had some notes, but I then improved on them by doing a detailed checklist for the order to do things. No OOPSES or going up and down stairs back to each area if you follow that checklist instead of relying on your memory. It only gets done once a year so easy to forget. You can also take photos of each step and put them in a binder or flash drive for anyone else to do the job in case you are sick or unavailable when it needs to be done. That way nothing gets missed or done out of sequence. Yes, having the breaker on for the water tank and no water in the tank would completely ruin the heating element in seconds.
That anti-freeze is really cheap, so I always use more to be sure. I also unscrew the little shut-off valve area hoses to sinks and toilet and leave the shut-offs open and disconnected too. One trick I learned with the toilet bowl remaining water is to get a big bucket of water and pour a steady stream into the bowl and keep raising the bucket. The force will push more water out of the toilet bowl. Plunger, sponge, and shop vac work too.
I have a smaller shop vac to get the last of the water out of the toilet bowl and tank but have also used a big sponge and gloves to squeeze the last of the water into a bucket. I have seen where some people put clingy saran wrap over the top of the toilet bowl and lower the seat and lid on that to keep it from evaporating, but I never bothered since I used more antifreeze.
Giggling here with your cup use. I can tell you are not the experienced cook in the family... unnecessary to pour antifreeze into a cup - just go directly where it has to go. Sorry to make fun, but you really do need that checklist because I can see your gears turning trying to remember the order of the steps to take. I have to do mine in the next 2 days because it gets really cold by early November here. I don't get sick, but you never know, so not leaving it to the very last minute.
You definitely are a pro. I got a lot of good ideas from your comments... thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I'll have to try that lifting bucket in the next few weeks. You're right about a binder/pictures/photos... I've winterized this for 10 years and have to remember the process every time! So that's why I made this video... for myself and my kids (to take over). Yes, it is humorous about me measuring out the antifreeze with a cup, but on a serious note, most people don't know how much antifreeze to blindly pour down a trap, and before you know it the antifreeze jug is out and you're 20 miles to the nearest supply store. Knowing what I've learned from you, I bet you have a case of antifreeze in reserve!
I've never measured out the antifreeze before this video, btw :) But I've never seen anyone discuss the amount needed, especially for a toilet.
@@davidpatrick3533 Haha. Hope I didn't sound too snooty about the cup measuring. I watch videos like yours to get ideas on a better way to do things. There is always something to be learned from someone. I realize also that you were trying to demonstrate how much antifreeze is needed in different parts as directly pouring into a sink or toilet is harder to tell how much was used from looking at the bottle.
I used to haul the washing machines into the cabin from an unheated porch, but I'm in my 70s now and older commercial machines are heavier than household ones. I made a ramp but it had to be steep to fit over the two steps up to the inside. I finally clued in to leave the machines in the porch and antifreeze them after 3 years of that. What an improvement and treat on my back and arms. That hand truck system was a challenge. My Dad had the strength to do that every year and when I got stuck with the job, I finally switched to antifreeze and left them in place.
That's when I did research on how much antifreeze was needed for a washer and was not about to scrimp and ruin the machines with too little protection. Every video had a different thought on how much was needed.
You're right that I have a lot of antifreeze on hand now. I'm on a remote island and finally, a little marine store here stocks RV antifreeze now. We only have that shop and a tiny grocery store. Last year I got caught short because a tourist assumed I was too lazy to hook up one washer and decided to reconnect the two water hoses and electrical outlet that was wrapped around the coin slide to indicate it was out of order. I have to do my own repairs too and I had enough working machines that I could procrastinate in fixing it. I still can't imagine that he actually couldn't understand the concept that an unplugged machine was out of order (until I could print up a sign for it) and put his laundry into the machine that was full of antifreeze but not visible since it was well below the basket holes.
I had just enough to barely winterize it again. Today I actually bought more so I had enough in case that ever happened again. The store is down to one container again after I left today!
Good to have your video for your own records, but I don't even have a cell phone (dead zone area in my spot), and the way technology changes, have a small camera but print versions never go out of style. I can print out the latest checklist every year so things are done in order to speed up the process. Lovely 'cottage' by the way!
I like your philosophy that there's always something to learn. Speaking of that, I'm curious on how you winterize your clothes washing machines? We just installed one last year so I'm new to that and not sure if I'm doing it properly. Thanks so much for any insight.
@@davidpatrick3533 Commercial washers are different than home versions because of different setting options. I have to force the machine to stop draining early by unplugging it from the electrical outlet but home versions can be stopped by pressing a stop/off button.
Home version: remove the drain hose hook and lower it to ground level to get rid of as much water from inside the machine into a bucket on its side or rag towels to drain as much from the hose as you can. Maybe use a shop vac to catch that water?
Turn off water shut off taps to hoses. Disconnect and lower the two water hoses to ground level also to drain as much water out of those.
'Hook up' that drain hose only again. Set machine to Drain and Spin. Usually, there isn't much water draining now anyway since you didn't really have a load to spin any water from. Drain and spin does not need any water to go into the machine, but commercial machine sometimes has the occasional spray at the end of a regular wash cycle - usually no drain and spin only option with those.
I use a minimum of half a bottle to a full bottle of RV antifreeze at least to be extra safe, even 1.5 bottles if it really gets cold and your machine is new (worth the cost to be sure). Near the end of that spin cycle pour the antifreeze into the basket, close lid, and immediately lift the drain hook to see the pink START to drain out.
Stop the machine from draining some more by pressing the off button or unplugging the machine (as I have to do with a commercial machine as it will not let you stop mid-cycle by turning it off). You are aiming to keep a lot of the antifreeze in the machine under the basket, in the pump, and also in the bottom of the hook drain hose.
Lid closed and unplugged from electrical with hoses low to the ground but I keep drain hook on so it keeps some antifreeze at the bottom of that hose. Once full water to place is shut off, I open the shut-off taps again to those disconnected water hoses. Can also throw old blankets over the machine if you want
These are my methods only and have not researched how others really do it. I'm just using some common sense and caution.
Edit: I do not have my machines inside a cottage where they would be better protected, but in an enclosed uninsulated porch (with door and clear roofing) only). Our winters do not get colder than -10 C (14 F) though.
Can you do one for instant water heaters
You should have two drip legs on your electric water heater. Make sure the pipe going to the water heater is empty and then open the valves on the drip legs. If you can you can put a air compressor quick connect on one of the drip legs and hook your compressor to it and blow it out but be careful not to run it too long because it will turn the pump inside and you don’t want to damage that.
Do you have to unscrew the water inlet from bottom of tank too?
Good question! I don't because that connection gravity feeds down through the hose and valve. But if you're cottage isn't set up that way, it won't hurt to unscrew it and have a cup handle to capture the little water.
@@davidpatrick3533 Thank you. I believe it is a gravity feed except for the horizontal pipe that goes into the wall from the toilet shutoff valve. I turned off water to the bathroom at the hydrant outside and opened drain valve there, with toilet shutoff valve open, so that would drain the little inlet tube, wouldn’t it?
Yes it should drain the inlet tube as long as there is no water in the toilet tank and the float valve is down (which is open)
@@davidpatrick3533 Thanks so much!
Can I do it with my car tire inflator
I assume you are referring to a portable tire inflator. If so, it cannot supply the volume of air required to clear 1/2" water lines. You will need to have a compressor that can supply at least 3-4 cfm to clear your lines.
I live in a small rural community in the northeast where most of the homes are seasonal, And It amazes me how completely useless most people are when it comes to basic property maintenance on the house they own.
what about unscrewing all of your bleeder valves??
Yes, good idea. If your plumbing system has them, then you should for sure open them up. This cottage doesn't have valves with bleeders. My only "bleeder" valves were those CPVC valves outside where I started. Everything else slopes downward to those points.
How can I winterize my house up here in Alaska if I drain the lines of water, then the boiler would not keep the house from freezing?
Usually we drain our water lines because you don't want to run heat in the winter meaning the boiler would be off. We winterize our cottage because we don't use it in the winter.
If you leave your boiler on then perhaps you don't need to drain your pipes.
However, if you want to drain your house water but keep your boiler on at a low temperature, it is possible to drain the entire house, but leave the boiler loop filled. Usually the boiler has a separate loop of water and only needs makeup water if there is a leak. Some people put an additional pressure tank on a boiler loop if it's not connected to the water supply. This pressure tank will maintain pressure in the system and provide a minimal amount of makeup water as needed. For this, you probably want to have a professional install it :) good luck!
What size transfer pump do you use. Wondering how powerful of one I need to buy. Thanks and great video!!
What zone are u in?
climate zone 5
Don't forget that ice in the sink will melt. But worry about it because the RV solution will be good.
I meant toilet tank in previous question.
please dont put your hand over any thing with compressed air. it can go through your skin into your blood and cause someone's heart to stop,