Seems like the “wrong” repair is better than the original design. But it’s still cool to learn how it worked originally. It’s not every day a person makes something better by mistake. :)
I actually liked your first fix better, that way you don't have to move the arm to light eyes, just press the pack or the button.. Either way is nice Ii guess. This was a very good series and an incredible restoration as always.
Dave, I actually prefer your solution to how the Laser Light Skeletor should work, as it prevents wear and tear on the figure. But it's always fascinating to see how vintage toys were originally designed to work and thanks to your skill and expertise, you are able to show us how, in your amazing videos.
Stay true, TP. Lots of vintage toy reviewers hatin on each other. I love your repairs and customs. I learn a lot watching your videos, it gives me a fresh perspective 😎👌🏻
Always keep learning,even if it’s how to repair a figure that’s older than some of your current audience. As a child of the 1980’s, I only have a few Masters Of The Universe figures left in good shape. I tend not to touch them as much.
Great video. It happens. It doesn't matter how long a person has been doing something, mechanical stuff will often times want you to do everything twice. Like the item, after years of neglect, enjoyed having love given to it and just wants a little more before it loves you forever. Always some weird clip, usually from previous owner not putting something together right
Always felt that when you are making things like this the music from the A-Team, when they were building things to escape for example, should be playing
Very interesting! I can see why the original light-up system by Mattel has more fun play, but I absolutely prefer the fix version that you came up with in your last Laser Light Skelly video. I cringed to see the inner part of the arm splitting and flexing each time you pushed the arm up to make the contact. Maybe a circular metal clasp slid over the inner arm stub might help keep the plastic from splitting further? Glue would help where the split is concerned, but I'd think you might need something to keep it from splitting down that seam in the future, so a clasp clamp is about all I could come up with. I really like the button you put on the one you built from that website kit. That looks amazing! Can't wait for that video!
Oh, I've seen more than a few toy repairs where the unbent piece was supposed to be bent heh. The original system definitely seems to be why the arm breaks off so often, I like the idea but could see what stress that was putting on it.
Another Awesome Video, Dave! This turned out to be a much easier fix than I expected.👍 Is there a specific line you enjoy working on the most or would you say they all have their own unique challenges and none stands out above the others? Thank you for sharing the amazing work you do. Cheers!!
@@toypolloi it's a Halo figure (one of the marines) circa 2004 made by Joyride Studios, it's an 8" figure. Thank you for your time I really appreciate it!
To me, it seems the original design just has a genuine design flaw. Not only does it encourage breakage at the elbow, but the part that pushes the plate in is just not that good. It doesn’t really have a good grip of the plate, and it looks like it’s basically designed to wear down to a nub, no matter what. Still a great toy, though. EDIT: Actually, I just noticed that’s their is a severe risk of it chewing the arm wires, too!
Can I ask what and where you get the sticker printing paper from to print your custom decal designs on your web page? I don’t want to order the wrong stuff.
I don't buy any specific brand. Just whatever I find on eBay. There are so many sellers and types available. The main choice is just gloss or matt finish and that depends on the final look you want.
My son got me a used black series tie fighter. It’s gigantic! One thing is though the cockpit lid has pressure clips that push outwards. One of the clips is broke, well hanging on by just a bit. I tried super glue, didn’t work, my wife tried some of her resin mix that is rock hard when it sets, but that didn’t work. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks and thank you so much for this channel. It’s really helped me on my restores!
Seems like the “wrong” repair is better than the original design.
But it’s still cool to learn how it worked originally.
It’s not every day a person makes something better by mistake. :)
I think its so cool finding out why they all have the same break. It's like you're Toy Polloi: Forensic Toy Scientist.
Halloween is just around the corner. It's the perfect time for Skeletor.
It's always Skeletor time at Toy Polloi!
I actually liked your first fix better, that way you don't have to move the arm to light eyes, just press the pack or the button.. Either way is nice Ii guess. This was a very good series and an incredible restoration as always.
Dave, I actually prefer your solution to how the Laser Light Skeletor should work, as it prevents wear and tear on the figure.
But it's always fascinating to see how vintage toys were originally designed to work and thanks to your skill and expertise, you are able to show us how, in your amazing videos.
Hey we get a bonus video no harm. Lol. Thanks for the continued great content Dave.
Hey Dave
Respect to you, for fixing it back to the original operation.
Take care
Stay true, TP. Lots of vintage toy reviewers hatin on each other. I love your repairs and customs. I learn a lot watching your videos, it gives me a fresh perspective 😎👌🏻
Thanks, will do!
This whole thing has been so cool! You're the best, Dave! This is a figure that I'll most likely never own, so it's been great watching you do this.
I like the one with the button, far less problematic and risky
Awesome! Thanks for doing an "original" fix as well. It's great to keep these rarer figures in as original condition as possible 👍
Excellent job as usual!
Always keep learning,even if it’s how to repair a figure that’s older than some of your current audience. As a child of the 1980’s, I only have a few Masters Of The Universe figures left in good shape. I tend not to touch them as much.
Great video. It happens. It doesn't matter how long a person has been doing something, mechanical stuff will often times want you to do everything twice. Like the item, after years of neglect, enjoyed having love given to it and just wants a little more before it loves you forever. Always some weird clip, usually from previous owner not putting something together right
Always felt that when you are making things like this the music from the A-Team, when they were building things to escape for example, should be playing
You'll have to sing it in your head. Copyright stops me using anything I don't have the rights to.
Awesome job bud I can’t wait to see that Barbarossa custom build.
You’re a better man than me Dave, I would have left it due to laziness. Keep up the awesome videos..this is my favorite channel 👍🏻
Wow, thanks
I like your first solution better, I feel like this Mattel-accurate repair is just going to make the figure break again.
Fantastic...!
Definitely prefer your method over the original method. Looking forward to the Barbarossa custom build.
Coming soon!
I agree with Dat Tall your fix meant a gentler hand could be used.
This was all a great watch thanks not a figure I owned so he man next
Glad you enjoyed
I was going to suggest a momentary switch on the top of the battery case. Great minds.
I actually prefer your version I think it's more better
Very interesting! I can see why the original light-up system by Mattel has more fun play, but I absolutely prefer the fix version that you came up with in your last Laser Light Skelly video. I cringed to see the inner part of the arm splitting and flexing each time you pushed the arm up to make the contact. Maybe a circular metal clasp slid over the inner arm stub might help keep the plastic from splitting further? Glue would help where the split is concerned, but I'd think you might need something to keep it from splitting down that seam in the future, so a clasp clamp is about all I could come up with. I really like the button you put on the one you built from that website kit. That looks amazing! Can't wait for that video!
Oh, I've seen more than a few toy repairs where the unbent piece was supposed to be bent heh. The original system definitely seems to be why the arm breaks off so often, I like the idea but could see what stress that was putting on it.
Another Awesome Video, Dave! This turned out to be a much easier fix than I expected.👍 Is there a specific line you enjoy working on the most or would you say they all have their own unique challenges and none stands out above the others? Thank you for sharing the amazing work you do. Cheers!!
Why did you not glue that crack in the arm seam?
Nice work! Any advice for fixing shoulder joints that use a "double swivel hinge" joint?
Thanks. What is broken? I don't do much work on modern figures as they are often let down by poor design and plastic quality.
@@toypolloi it's a Halo figure (one of the marines) circa 2004 made by Joyride Studios, it's an 8" figure. Thank you for your time I really appreciate it!
Can't say I have anything to offer on that. They are more display pieces than toys.
@@toypolloi no worries man! I'll get it fixed; your channel has inspired me to fix a couple other toys also. Have a great day!😎
To me, it seems the original design just has a genuine design flaw. Not only does it encourage breakage at the elbow, but the part that pushes the plate in is just not that good. It doesn’t really have a good grip of the plate, and it looks like it’s basically designed to wear down to a nub, no matter what. Still a great toy, though.
EDIT: Actually, I just noticed that’s their is a severe risk of it chewing the arm wires, too!
Can I ask what and where you get the sticker printing paper from to print your custom decal designs on your web page?
I don’t want to order the wrong stuff.
I don't buy any specific brand. Just whatever I find on eBay. There are so many sellers and types available. The main choice is just gloss or matt finish and that depends on the final look you want.
Hi I cannot find plastic weld here in Canada. Do you have any idea of an alternative? Thank you
I list all the bits I use in the toolshop section on toypolloi.com but that is all UK listings on Amazon.
My son got me a used black series tie fighter. It’s gigantic!
One thing is though the cockpit lid has pressure clips that push outwards. One of the clips is broke, well hanging on by just a bit. I tried super glue, didn’t work, my wife tried some of her resin mix that is rock hard when it sets, but that didn’t work.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks and thank you so much for this channel. It’s really helped me on my restores!
Have not tried it yet, however would plastic weld not work?
Not easy to fix if at all. Modern plastics are not great to mend, hence why I stick to vintage.
same with he-man. only lights when raise his sword
Less likely to brake it with the switch
Im in uk and i have one that needs restoration you can buy it off me if you like
LEDs instead of bulbs could of made a slight better difference
I'm keeping this guy all original. So no LED's for him.
not the greatest design, you can see the stress on the arm (actually splitting) when rotating...
Yeah, It really shows why they are all broken. The plastic is not great quality on the originals either.
It looked like it was pinching on the wires restricting movement? Perhaps if the wires were facing down out of the way?
Prefer your original solution.
I think your way was better