My Rocket stove Part One: Design
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- The Rocket Stove is a way of burning wood at high efficiency.
Music "Little Tomcat (Instrumental Version)" by Josh Woodward
Available on the Free Music Archive freemusicarchive.org/
Under CC BY license creativecommons...
You must be one of those guys who explain to the board what the ingineers just invented. Very well done. I salute you.
Thanks. And I indeed did some presentations about new versions of Microsoft software and other cases.
@@RobertJHGisolf i knew it. Hats off. And if you escaped corporate then congratulations are in order.
Very nice graphics/design on how the rocket heater works.
Run that flue out the window and down. If your heat is collected well, the exhaust will be cold and heavy and actually pull down as a draft. A flue going up requires heat to operate and drops efficiency. Beautiful stove!!
The temperature at the flue pipe is around 40°C when I have a big hot fire. I have a rather classic chimney, so that's fine for the flue to leave the house.
And thanks for the compliment, and your sharing.
Good looking and good efficiency. Good stove!
Thank You for Generously Sharing this brilliant design and animation. 🙏❤
Best stove ever! Non commercial project is the best! But for efficient producing of this stove must hawe the fabric. I get some of the parts from scrap, and i will make one dirty and cheap rocket stove.
I've used wood heat all my life and I love efficient heating systems. This concept has some excellent designs with both function and form, the visuals are stellar, music is charming! Very kind of you to share such a informative Idea, well done! Thank you!
Thanks, you're welcome.
Excellent design, love the secondary air to help burn wood gas.
Very nice ! With few tweaks to make flue radiators' design flexible, you can easily go commercial. Very aesthetic and practical
yes I like this one, I'm thinking about the design for mine right at the moment. I've seen one design that has some form of after burner device to allow the smoke to be drawn back into the combustion chamber but can't remember just how its set up
The best rocket stove video I have seen yet. Has my mind rocketing with ideas! Would love to incorporate the rocket stove mass heater idea, to retain heat and function as a storage heater, AND a water boiler (possible in a few ways) to maximise efficiency! Thank you Robert J.H.Gisolf for your genius!
Thanks for your compliment. And be carefull not to literally BOIL the water, because then you get dangerous steam.
Very nice, liked, thank you 🍀🌷🌈
Master in making rocket stove but also master in making video animations!!!Best video ever!
Thanks!
Probably the best visual explanation without words. ...(and thank-you for that) that I have ever seen. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Wow, thanks!
Nice design, not crazy about the horizontal flue in the House next to the wall. I could see serious building code problems. Would suggest more thermal mass to scalp heat off and improve safety. Nice job overall. Did you actually fabricate something?
Indeed, the horizontal flue pipe is intended to be inside a thermal mass to store the heat. And yes, I fabricated the design. Just look at my other 6 videos in the playlist.
THank you for your effort... makes it effortless to watch.
This is the most well-done, informative and professionally presented video I have seen, shown in a very simple to understand way. And I have watched close to two hundred rocket stove videos. My only question (haven't read all the comments so the question may already be answered there) is, "Is this design, which doesn't actually have two 90 degree turns in the feed tube, intended to allow room occupants to see the flame? And is this design therefore intended to give a more "fireplace" feel/look to a "type" of stove that often hides the beauty of the flame?
th-cam.com/video/fwCz8Ris79g/w-d-xo.html
Interesting design but if I were you I would seriously look up 3rd degree creosote because when that chimney pipe is used to heat the room with that super long and bend filled pipe it cools and then the creosote starts to build up and can in fact cause a flue fire. That's why chimneys are straight up with limited or no bends so the exhaust can escape quickly. Having fought no less than a half dozen flue fires when I was a firefighter I sure as hell wouldn't want to be near that single walled chimney pipe if it should burn open or the connections fail. With nowhere to go but into the room it would be a very bad day indeed. I'd rethink that extra pipe and just go straight up and out.
I think that the vortex portion of this is meant to get so hot that the off gasses of the combustion are burned off before leaving causing it to burn clean, which would allow for no creosote build up.
From my experience ... re:- ther are other ways the creosote build up will happen, and it is just by the starting and shutting down of the stove over time, hot & cold condensing plus the accumulation of ash carry-over will eventually create creosote and ultimately congest the flue pipes.
Access to cleaning horzontal flue pipe is an extreme concern once installed, especially inside a residence.
The only way the concept of scavenging heat from horizontal flue pipes would be to direct the flue straight outdoors, then have your 'runs' confined in an insulated heat exchanger with clean-outs at each of the horizontal runs.
This is an Open-Source suggestion.
I'd like to suggest you consider the following:-
The feed tube, I've found the angled style tends to cause the fuel to hang up, so we only design vertical feed tubes that are 8"×8" and 18" to 20"+ in height from the top to the removable grate for loading of various lengths of fuel, but the feed tube actually extends a further 4" down to incorporate the ash pit.
The horizontal chamber that leads to the riser is 5" ×5" and approx. 10" long, we welded in a 5"×5"×5" square pipe to extend the ash pit, this has extremely improved the combustion efficiency & ash pit capacity, plus much less ash carry-over.
The riser is 5"×5" and about 33" in height with an 1 1/2" to 2" clearance at the top. The reason for the variable 1 1/2" to 2" is whether you leave the tank with the domed finish or if you cut off an 1" or 2 and install a thick steel plate(gasketed). Also the riser is insulated with a 6" 12 gauge metal sleeve, and a perlite/refractory (water-based) paste insulation.
This is encapsulated with what we refer to as an upright 100 lb. propane tank.
The 6" flue exits about 16" above the bottom of the propane tank.
Just above the flue the propane tank is cut in half and rope-gasket with clamp-downs used for cleaning and maintenance and inspection.
The stove sits on a steel table 17" high for several reasons, easy claning of ash pit, easy loading of fuel, easy access and viewing of primary glass door.
I must admit, I am quite envious of your vortex and secondary air plus the outdoor and primary air concepts.
We've been able to use various fuel sources continuously, from sawdust to wood chips to wood pellets to sticks to scrap lumber, we found different oils work, used, vegetable etc. But, can dirty the system if not careful, don't like oils anyway. CHEERS!
🍞&🌹's
Beacase the combustion is so hot, there is no creosote. Creosote is the result of a too cold combustion. The only exhaust of a good rocket stove is water vapour and CO2.
@@RobertJHGisolf No stove is 100 percent efficient. If the chimney of a rocket stove was to go straight up without obstructions then I would agree with you but as his goes sideways for half the pipe and is a single walled pipe which bleeds heat into the room for room heating reducing the temperature in the chimney (which aids in creosote buildup) then the draft effect on the stack which aids the burn in the burn chamber is reduced. The fact that the stove is operating at less than optimal temp and draft and the added feet of horizontal pipe there is going to be creosote. It is as simple as that. If he got rid of that horizontal and went straight up then I agree with you...
Vu le concept on crame l'air ambiant
Ça peut être intéressant entre les tropiques, pour cuisiner, mais dans des zones plus prêt des pôles, va falloir l'habiller de masse thermique pour être plus performant
This has to be the best rocket stove design I have seen to date. Great job
+Pef273 Well, thank you then.
possible acces to plan to make my own for my greenhouse ? i live Québec,Canada thanks very nice concept and video
WOW this is a great presentation and explaination, thank you so much
Hi! Good job but cold air fromunder the floor..? He has come from outside? Outdoor? Thank u
Thanks. And yes, under the floor is the crawl space that is ventilated from the outside to prevent moisture.
Beautiful design - clean and functional. I'm building a similarly featured Rocket Stove (remote makeup air, vortex generators). The reburn section in mine will be a 44" tall literally "stack" of 4" tall x 4" id - 8" od fireclay and perlite cored discs. At some point I hope to post a video of it running. Have you considered integrating the flue pipes into a water jacket heat battery?
How long can be that flue pipe? Can I make it around the room or two rooms?
What is the consequences of too long pipe? - the exhaust fumes will remain inside or simply it will not heat?
I don't know eaxtly, but no too long. Two reasons: the resistance becomes to much and the heat is already exchaged if the pipe is too long. You can find some 'rule of thumbs' on the Internet. Also keep in mind that normal flue pipes are designed for underpressure because normaly there is a draw. But a rocket stove can push the flue out into the pipes because of the very strong draw in the riser and lower temperature in the flue pipe.
There are missing the temperature gauge under the inspection window, the wood or whatever and the teapot on top. Just kidding. Nice presentation. It's interesting the adjustable height of the "post-combustion" chamber, good ideea. It's like an adjustable nozzle, indeed. Nice work.
+Otto Weber Thanks. And did you mean the famous 3D example teapot?
I've seen so many vídeos, and this is the best one.
Thank u
Hello, do you have problems with the ignition in the mid-season, October November and March? The heating network does not slow down the draft. Very beautiful creation, and moreover equipped with an outside area
No problems with ignition, but you have to know how. Start the fire deep inside the tunnel, so the ignition will be below the riser. I use burning gel directly followed by small wood pieces. Once the draft starts you can fill it with larger pieces of wood.
Around 2:50 note the gas flow is shown mostly descending straight down *behind* the riser, very little flowing towards the front and down. It will hit the ceiling and immediately get pulled down, back, and around towards the rear located flue outlet, and likely create a "draw" at the inspection window. Since the majority of the hot gas will be descending towards the wall portion of the outer casing, two symmetrical flue exits, or simply a front flue exit location seems in order. Since we want more heat radiated into the room, less at the wall, why not draw more hot gas down the front of the outer casing, less down the rear?
Seems to me, any inverted drum rocket stove with a single flue outlet, has to be hotter on the flue side of the drum, usually situated towards the wall, lol. My stoves are more like Kevin Bacon's Omega Stoves. My outer casing basically insulates the riser and only houses fresh air, therefore I have no actual experience measuring how unevenly the typical inverted RS drum heats, I only surmise that it must. Someone please holler back at me if I'm wrong!
Perhaps you're right. I never measured front and back of the drum on the same moment. I will do that some day. I will also think about a half circle plate to insert into the drum behind the riser to force the flue to the front of the drum.
Thanks for your comment.
@@RobertJHGisolf Thanks for the acknowledgement!
Hello Mr. Robert, I really admire your work - the best stove here. What do you think about connecting your stove with water accumulation container? Shold the chimney goes straight up through the accumulation container or in a spiral way round the container coat? I am not sure about the temperatures of the "smoke" and water... Thank you for your answer.
Thanks for the compliment.
People already described how to heat water, there are several TH-cam video's showing that.
The flue pipe of a (correctly build) rocket stove is not very hot, so that is not a good place to get heat. A copper coil water pipe in the drum is far more productive.
Красивое и простое решение в организации загрузочного узла, вторичной подачи воздуха и забора воздуха с улицы. Кстати, можно воспользоваться возможностью принудительной вентиляции подпола (или подвала), забирая воздух оттуда. Спасибо за идеи, всего доброго!
Благодарю за комплимент!
one of the best rocket stove iv'e seen to date please contact me if your interested in making them commercially. I would love one for my bauwagon ( circus trailer ). was also wondering if you are located in Germany or Holland. it looks like. thanks for posting.
+iDado Thanks for the compliment. And I'm located in Holland. But I think it is much to large for a circus trailer, so you have to scale it down.
Thoughts on residual particle combustion
Option 1. Add a small diameter central pipe with draft holes angled and slanted in the direction of the vortex which serves to inject more oxygen later in the burn stage increasing combustion of residual particles in two ways. A. The additional pipe should be placed opposite of the secondary air supply, but you might need a fan depending on the length of your stack. B. By either repositioning the underside air supply directly below the furnace base. The furnace base block will be bored for the pipe and the pipe will have some of its length coated in clay to prevent heat bounce disturbance. Or, keep the third intake where it is and add a forth intake as described above.
Option 2. A vent can be added high in the burn stack and funneled down the exterior of the internal stack inside the barrel, re-feeding to the secondary air supply, since the residual particles will be cooler high in the stack they can be sucked and recycled back into the burn chamber.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for your suggestions. But there is no need for more combustion. Measurements of the flue gasses show a very low amount of particulate matter. And that with a relatively simple secondary air supply. So why should it become more complex.
I am working over a design, I am going to use a stainless steel core flue with welded tabs of s.s. like petals along the interior in a upwards spiral pattern. The 3 inch fresh air pipe is similar to your design but is broken up into fifteen 1/2" stainless tubes forming a header pipe along the inner wall of the fire box. The seperate tubes run up along the interior of the inner side of the insulated core (against the hot side) and each tube pokes out into the flue just under each of the flue petals. This idea blows the vortex system out of the water by far as far as the overall efficiency of total gas burn off. The extreme temps in the core flue heats the large surface area edges of the petals up white hot, as the wood gasses rise up past these white hot petals the preheated fresh air wraps around the petal, mixes very efficiently and burns at extreme temperatures in the small low pressure turbulent areas on the top sides of the petals. They basically act like a catalyst media where the fresh air, gas and white hot stainless steel all meet and gets mixed and burned very efficintly. The petal pattern will have 15 petals running to about 1/2 way up the flue. Each petal will be cut with many fingers that resemble a fern, these thin fingers get ultra hot and act as a constant ignition point along the inner core. These petals allow for a highly efficient burn at all temperature ranges and conditions throughout the phases of burn in the core.
Interesting idea, but I can't completely imagine your idea. Perhaps a drawing can explain? But "white hot" is not a good thing for steel, even for Stainless Steel. And I'm not sure if the wood gas flue injected with air can get the steel to "white hot" temperature. For that to happen you need for instance acetylene and pure oxygen?
You could use a propane burner if you did not want to mess with burning wood or pellets. I would put it in an out building over cisterns to heat and cool my home. No more huge ekectrity Bills! That's always good!
Cool did you make any drawings? I like how it's smaller. The barrel part was a little confusing.
I am impressed with the accurate cutting using the 4 1/2" angle Grinder. Great Job ! Your stove will no doubt last a long Time its well built.
very good video, nice work
Great Video Rob ! I'm planing mine out now , using a 60 gallon air tank . Only thing that I'm still not sure of is height of the exhaust port in relation to the burn chamber . I've seen them the same height as well as either one over the other . My plan calls for the exhaust port above the burn chamber because of vermiculite insulation . I have not found a standard ruling for this .
THX ,
Steve
+264fan I don't quite understand your question. But generally speaking the flow trough the stove must be the same. So the surface of the inlet must be the same as the surface of the exhaust.
Make one with a V-10 sterling engine that runs a water hammer to make hot and fresh water. A heat sink and you could hear a hone or green house or even cool with cold water from an underground cistern all without any electrity! Good luck!
You're right. And I love Stirling engines. I have build a small one myself.
How about a Manson engine? Ever put a sterling engine and a Manson engine together to make a hybred engine?
fantastic graphics, great presentation well done
Thanks
Nice design I like the early ideas about rocket stove But was hoping that some one would (and u have) come with a clear design for the rocket stove as a house heater. Now ?? how to add a feed system so the stove could percolate (run) over an extended peroid of time.
Very well explained - we had in mind feeding the secondary air into the eye of the vortex in a kind of perforated tube
Thanks. Good idea then. You could also feed the secondary air below the eye, to make sure the oxygen is there.
Thanks - We are experimenting with a waste oil rocket water heater for our hot tub using the corrugated stainless steel coul out of a Halsted 24KW gas boiler - it holds 2 ton of water!
I built my rocket stove 2 years ago and it works better with less wood then any wood stove I have ever owned over the many years. build one or buy one,I feel you will have no regrets.i use mine to heat my house from morning to night time.i used a 55 GALLION STEEL DRUM AND 5" STEEL SQUARE STOCK.
Hi, how is that 5" square steel working? Is it your riser? I thought steel degrades in the high heat of rocket stoves?
Fantastic video. I don't know what software you used to produce it but I am very impressed not only with the engineering of the stove but also the presentation. It is second to none. Bravo and thank you.
Thank you very much. The presentation was done in 3dmax Studio.
Since hot air out forces cold air in, why not have a cold air pipe from the outside to the primary air area to eliminate forced cold air into the room?
I did. My air comes from under the floor. That's almost the same as outside air, because that air will be replaced by outside air.
man that is a beautiful machine there. I would totally buy one of those👐👍
+chris gorman Thanks. I am not commercially producing this design yet.
Oh really?well please keep me in mind. Maybe we could hammer out an agreement when that time comes?i love the craftsmanship & thoughtful design. A very nice american product.
Very nice animations to say the least. From a combustion energy standpoint why are you pre-heating your outside air. Cold air is denser and has more oxygen per unit volume to support combustion. It would seem that any given volume of incoming air which has been pre-heated is less dense and therefore carrying less oxygen. Is this not why many cars with turbo booster use inter-coolers? I am very interested in producing a small rocket stove heater for a friend in Nepal and would like talk more with regarding your design.
Thanks for your compliment. After the fire is started (with opened door) there is not much need for dense air and oxygen. The fire just needs to be as hot as possible. And it preheats the unburned wood.
Having dense air isn't what you want. Preheating the air spreads the O2 molecules out and makes it easier to combust. This also makes the air move faster as it gets closer to the flame which does a much better job of mixing. Additionally, it preheats the wood closer to it's gaseous state which is really what burns, not the wood itself. We don't use a mechanical booster, we use physics to create the boost. Combustion chamber design with forced induction is cool but wastes tons of energy to get the power, which is exactly opposite of our goal. I think :-) No scientist here, just a jack of all trades. Best.
I hope my question is not an obvious one. The flue gas goes up and goes down and gets cooled down more along the loop before exiting. But how would a hot flue gas goes down after the burning chamber? Especially at ignition, how do you prevent flue gas coming out into the room since this opening is a lot closer?
You ignite the stove by burning fuel under the riser tube. That starts the upgoing draft in the riser. It has enough "force" to push the flue down in the outer barrel and into the flue pipe. If the flue pipe gets hot, there is added draft in the flue pipe.
Beautiful construction and which seems to correspond to my needs. Have you a plan with the size ?
Thank you in advance
Thanks. And apart from the 3ds files I have some draft SketchUp drawings. But not commercially ready. If you are interested, how much would you pay for it?
Robert J.H. Gisolf. I would like to buy the plans. Pleas contact me if possible. Alexsorkin@me.com
If I may, I'm just going to start throwing this out there... Years ago, when my son was a young boy, we loved camping and discussed ideas of all things survival. I spoke about an unknown idea I had of a human waste pit, on each defecation adding a sprinkle of fire ash to deodorise, which would also balance acidic urine. I wondered if, once the small pit is full, straw or hey may be optionally mixed in, top the pit with turf for a time to partially compost the matter, then dig up and shape into blocks which are air dried and used for fire blocks as fuel, and very possibly make great fertiliser for agriculture also! I've always wondered why society doesn't seem to know what to do with it's excrement, other than throw wash it into the water ways??!
Super nice design . I want to build one for my workshop. How can i get the plans? Are for sale?
I'm in the proces of commercializing this design, and have a royalties contract. So sorry, I can't give you the plans.
Cool channel, enjoy the vid's. Im thinking along the lines of a wood gasifier, heat exchange water heater (to cool/condense wood gases) via rocket stove. In other words I'm interested in utilizing the advantageous characteristics of the rocket stove as a mass heater, and heat exchange to heat water and also to cool/condense the combustible gases all in one configuration. Does the rocket stove produce combustible gases? Or perhaps I should ask at what point on the rocket stove could I tap to siphon off the combustible gases? SemperFi
The clue of the rocket stove is that it burns all the gasses at high temperature in the servaral stages of the combustion. First in the very hot burn chamber and what is left is burned in the very hot insulated riser.
In other videos, some people use perlite and vermiculite between the riser and the outer shell claiming that the insulation produces a more efficient burn. Is there a reason you decided to forego insulation?
Yes, sure insulation produces more efficient burn, because of the higher temperature. My riser is a double wall system, with insulation. So I did NOT forego insulation.
Забыли соединить колпак с дымоходом напрямую, с поворотной задвижкой. Иначе при растопки дым из-за холодной трубы будет выкидывать в помещение.
You are right, in real there is a pipe with damper to shortcut the long horizontal pipe until the chimney draws enough.
Вы правы, на самом деле есть труба с демпфером, чтобы обрезать длинную горизонтальную трубу, пока дымоход не наберет достаточно.
Hallo, great design and presentation, I really admire it and I have two questions :-).
I know, that optimal gap between top cover and the top of the heat raiser should be 1,5 - 2 inches, this is adjustable in your stove. How often do you adjust this gap in ordinary daily usage and what effect this reduction and enlargement of the gap has?
Your rocket stove is quite tall and lean, 300 mm diameter of the outer casing isn`t too much if I compare it with the mortar ones with a barel as a outer casing. Your space for hot gas between the outer casing and the heat riser is so much smaller ... may be you compensate that by the lenght of the stove. What do you think about the change of ratio - smaler and wider outer casing, what effect it should have? May be hotter top plate, different (lower?) temperature of exhaust, ... ?
Thanks
+David Vosmik Thanks. The gap must form a cylinder with the same area as the circular area of the inner diameter of the riser. I wanted to experiment with that dimension. But no, I now never adjust this anymore.The dimensions for my stove were based on the standard one meter stainless steel flue pipe available on the (Dutch) market. Again the surface of the area between the outer diameter of the riser and te inner diameter of the outer casing must at least be the same. The longer the way the flue has to travel, the longer the time that it can exchange heat with the outer casing. That's why my exhaust temperature us so low.
Is there enough wast-heat to keep the chimney warm enough to draw? Also, I think a damper in the flu would be a necessity. for those windy days.
Sure. The flue in the chimney is about 80 to 120 °C. But the internal riser causes the draw. A damper is nice, because the draw is too much sometimes.
to mold the parts with cement or morter is there a special mix that will take high heat or will plain sandcrete do?
+johncartelli You need fireproof concrete, not the normal stuff. You can see it at my second video of my play list, "Building Part one". th-cam.com/play/PL_-61alqZRX002xu9NtwPaJ2vvZnaRW6T.html
Nice design and video, but the pipes are a bad idea I think. Bad draft and moist buildup. I learned to avoid 2 90deg angles or even no 90deg. You even used 180deg and a few 90deg ones. But maybe I'm wrong and you have a good explanation, please tell.
Thanks for your compliment. And yes, draft is a possible problem with standard stoves. So prevent lots of bending of your flue piping with normal stoves. But rocket stoves are different. The don't need draft from a hot flue pipe. They generate an enormous draft inside, in their internal very hot insulated "riser", an internal chimney, as you could say. So look it up on the internet, there is lots of information, if mine is not sufficient...
How much of a gap did you give for chimney and outer casing? Heard too much gap and it won't work.
+Iek Chan The outer diameter of the riser is 175 mm (inner 125), the diameter of the outer casing is 300 mm. And that works fine for me. The flue can exchange heat enough, the exhaust temperature is rather low.
when the door is closed to the fire box doesnt that shut off the pre heated 2ndary air tube to its supply?
+johncartelli Good observation! Yes, it did shut it of. So that was one of my improvements. A added a 90 degree curved pipe and drilled a hole in the bottom of the filler-box. You can see that in a future video.
+Robert J.H. Gisolf I want to make one of these...and I want to try to make it out of motar with molds. I know using steel would be easier but im thinkin that the upriser will burnout quickly with such high temperatures. ...therefore steel outsides encasing the cement innards...and a few mods to allow longer burn times....
+johncartelli Good idea, I'm also working on that. Steal is not a good material at those temperatures (although stainless steel can sustain it rather good).
+Guy in Colorado Greetings! The normal steel did not melt, but it corroded very fast. See my other video "Disassemble inspection".
Robert J.H. Gisolf, thank you very much for really amazing presentation. Do you think it is efficient to use that system for the greenhouse?
Thanks. And Rocket Stoves are often used for greenhouses. See the Internet. But if you can use it for your greenhouse depends of the size of your greenhouse. My model works fine for my large living room, but there is no big fill box, so you have to add fuel every half an hour or so.
will it last over night once you fill it up?
No, it will last for half an hour or so. You have to heat a mass of cobble, clay, sand, stones or even water. That mass will then dissipate heat at a slow rate. And that can last for 12 hours or even more.
@@RobertJHGisolf thanks
hola robert, asta ahora sos el unico que indica lo de aire primario y aire secundario, muy bueno tu comentario.
saludos.
That is a really neat design, did you build this from scratch or did it come in a kit?
Thanks. It is my own design, but based on a lot of information available on the Internet.
By far, this is the best video!. Thanks so much
Do I can buil it with an heat exchanger around the core so I can have hot water
Hi Rob. I would like to know if there is the video of the second part. And congratulations for the great work
Very nice video ! I'm not sure to understand how fresh air from outside is preheated.. Can you explain to me how works the fill box and the double walls ? Is all the outside air preheated or only a part (because of the grate) ? Thank you !
You can see part of it from 2:40 to 3:00 in the video. But it also streams along the sides of the inner firebox and flushes the front window to prevent soot on it.
Hello,
Market you plans and the method to build your model which I find very well thought. I lived in Europe (France) and would like to build this type(chap) of rocket.
Thank you in advance
This is the best rocket stove video I have seen yet. Awesome!!! Where do I sign?
Yeah, once you die of Carbon Monoxide poisoning... That is a smoker in the house and that equals death... Even with an induced draft blower by the way the exhaust is designed. You probably find out from cartoon to reality that this is a fail... Don't kill yourself by poisoning yourself in your home with cartoon engineering...
it amazes me how everyone is using a very stupid design for all their indoor rocket stoves and yes I am talking about the one in this video believe it or not it is a very wasteful design.
@@ClovisX Death
Have a cartoon guy in the house with his hands around his neck gasping for oxygen other than carbon monoxide.
And for you earthers of ignorance. Carbon Dioxide is Conditioned as plant food... Really...
It’s actually a very good design and based on many principles already in use in contra flow masonry heaters. The only thing missing is more thermal mass. Can’t say I’m crazy about the extensive horizontal fuel next to the wall. Somewhat awkward and dangerous. I have a masonry heater that draws air form the basement and have enjoyed more than 25 yrs of luxurious, efficient heating.
Why preheat the intake air? At least with combustion engines you want cold air because it more dense and therefore has more oxygen. More oxygen = Better and cleaner burn.. Or am i missing something here? 🤔
You want a lot of power coming from a combustion engine. That's where compressors are for, with intercooling. A rocket stove is no engine. You want a lot of heat, not horsepower.
@@RobertJHGisolf Well, i do know that it`s not an engine. But if you would add oxygen to the air intake of the stove, i promise you it would get crazy hot. The more oxygen, the cleaner and hotter combustion and hotter stove.
Only wondering, what about the flue pipes taring up, how do you clean out the flu pipes.
You may like to see other Robert J.H.Gisolf's videos on this rocket stove design...
You're right, such a flue pipe needs some cleaning hatches, especially in the horizontal pieces.
+Mark Smith I really don't know if I reply to the correct Mark Smith because your message has no Reply link.
Yes, I casted it myself. You can see that in the next video in my playlist. Later I found that I should mix it (one to one) with vermiculite or perlite for more insulation.
Robert J.H. Gisolf quanto costa? money
Great Rocket Heater. Do you have plans that can be purchased? Regards Paul
Thanks. And I'm thinking about plans. All the parts are in some SketchUp files already. But first I want to improve my Proof of Concept.
Robert J.H. Gisolf let me know when the design is done,, and $$ for the plans,,thanks,,ole fart Jimmy
if you cool the flue gas through heat exchange with the environment, how does it create significant draw? is it hard to get the draw started?
For a rocket stove you don't have to waste heat in your chimney to create draft!. The draft is created in the stove itself, in the riser tube. So the flue gas is PUSHED out into your flue outlet (chimney). It is not hard to start the draw, just start the fire directly under the riser pipe, inside the stove.
aha, very clever! i like that. its always bothered me that the flue gas had to be hot on conventional stoves.
so, is this correct:
-the riser/furnace is thermally insulated
-its hottest inside the riser (furnace chamber-thing).
-the flue gas cools down a bit when it hits the top and side of the barrel, and becomes more dense that the gas inside the furnace. therefore it is pushed down and into the chimney.
If the above statements are correct, we could actually optimize the rate of gas flow by cooling the outside of the barrel (and thus making the flue gas immediately inside the barrel more dense. this could be done with a heat exchanger that could heat water for us (water filled copper coil connected to a barrel of water. this would provide thermal mass, and would circulate via thermal syphon).
What do you think? let me know if i need to clarify anything. i can make a sketch and scan if need be.
Your statements are correct and reflect my statements.
And yes, storing the heat into a barrel of water is one way to store the heat. But water can boil and is therefore rather dangerous.
Storing the heat into other mass, like cob, sand or stone is better.
Search youtube, I have seen rocket mass heaters with water heater designs as well.
+Hanna WC ah, cool :) i just had a look, but cant find it. would you mind posting a link if you remember where you saw it?
Excellent demonstration of your thoughts on this. I would love to see this made in the real world to prove it one way or the other. Still, great job in providing a visualization of the inside of your head. What tool(s) did you use for the video?
Thank you. I think you have discovered a few minutes later that I actually built the design. I use it in my home now.In a friendly company they have 3ds Max. I may use that when the designers do not need it. I exported it to SketchUp, to draw the building plans.
Very elegant. Nice job.
My compliments on the design, the animation, and I guess everything else. I had no idea you can do something like this with Sketchup.
Job well done.
Saeid
Thanks. But as far as I know you can't do this with SketchUp. The animations were done with 3dsmax. Then I exported it to Sketchup to make the construction drawings and have them with me in the workshop.
I see. It's a job well done either way. I'll be building a Rocket Stove in my mud house in Shiraz next winter. Can I incorporate some of your design?
TY
Saeid
Saeid Momtahan Sure, go ahead. We all learn from each other. What design do you want to incorporate?
Not sure Robert. I'm looking at different designs. But thanks for the permission.
Saeid
I want to weld up a stove with my powertig welder this fall. I really need something cheap to run to heat up my work space.
How many square feet (a shop with uninsulated walls) can it heat on a day that is 32F or lower? And how much palletwood (roughly) would it take to heat it for 24 hours?
I really don't know. In feet? I use meters. 32F? Ah, that's 0C. And how much lower? And how insulated are your walls. nd your ceiling? What kind of palletwood? A lot of unknown parameters...My rather insulated home ground floor is around 70 square meters. And that is heated fine, at a freezing day. I never tried to burn my rocket stove for 24 hours continuously.
Please tell me in square meters if you don't use square feet. 32F is freezing point. It usually doesn't get much colder than that in winter here. No insulation in walls or ceiling. Ceiling is 10' (or ~3 meters.). The palletwood here is often made of poor quality walnut, believe it or not. Thanks.
All I can say is that during mild freezing (around 0 degrees C), mu rocket stove can heat the rooms at ground floor, the central heating just stops warming. That's about 70 square meters. But my walls are insulated rather good.
man this looks perfect, and I am sorry because there always has to be a But what about cleaning? I mean cleaning of the pipes, not the burner, although burner cleaner would be useful too :)
Not much cleaning is needed. Some light ashes fly trough the riser. That's why I made the outer drum detachable. The burn chamber needs some cleaning but not much because of the clean burn process. I have a small flat shovel for that.
I see, thanks for clarifying m8.
Happy New Year and best wishes.
Very nice presentation good work.
Since then did you notice a thickness reduction of the inner riser tube due to high heat ?
Thanks
Thanks.
Since I replaced the tube with the vortex vanes with an RVS version, it still is fine. The thin inner wall of the riser pipe is a bit distorted, but still holds.
what material is the core burner? did u do from a particular block of insulated stone? thanks and great job!!
Just look at my other videos. Its fireproof concrete.
Hello,
Thank you for your answer. For a drawing susceptible to reproduce the device, I believe that 30 dollars, if we are several to buy it to you would be a reasonable sum to pay your work.
thanks for explaining this so well! Can you add some details on the expected temperatures in the different zones?
I already showed temeratures in one of the videos in my playlist. So see th-cam.com/video/NSITr0C_1qc/w-d-xo.html
hi i would like to know if there is a project to reproduce your rocket stove
you a genius, man
Nice cartoon
Robert your concept Rocket Stove is very impressive...is there any way to capture the radiant heat and circulate the heat with a blower/fan?
Thanks. And sure, I use a fan on top of the stove that gets it's power from a Peltier element. AKA Ecofan ®. Google it. The blades must be real gold for that price...
Why does the inner riser have to be insulated?
To keep the burning mixture of gases as hot as possible. That's one of the reasons that it burns so clean. It is only after the flue gases leave the riser that heat is transferred to the outer jacket.
Do you think you would be able to extract more heat from the stove if you had the flame go up around outside of the riser, then exhaust down through the middle? I'm thinking of building one only for emergency situations.
@@Mykul403 No, the riser is insulated to keep the bruning gas mix as hot as possible. That's why it is burning so clean. After being completely combustioned the flew gasses cool down transmitting the heat to the outer casing, and eventually to a mass. That mass (stone, cobble, sand) will then slowly cool down and transmit heat for a longer time, while the stove isn't burning anymore.
If you were able to add a way t compress wood gas that would be awesome!
I don't understand your suggestion. Why would I compress wood gas?
I want to try making that with my everlast welder soon. I wish I had this type of heater earlier in this cold weather.
Hi Robert. Thank's for sharing your idea.
I have a question. What's the use of the adjustable height mechanism for?
Thank's again.
Nice proof of concept but did you actually build one like this ? Guess I'll just have to look at what other vids you have to find out.
You obviously did not see the other videos in this playlist: th-cam.com/play/PL_-61alqZRX002xu9NtwPaJ2vvZnaRW6T.html
Nice design and graphics. Well done.
Great drawing and animation. I was especially impressed with the secondary air tube shown at the end, that makes a vortex generator in the back of the firebox. Have you built this stove as drawn, and does it perform as shown?
Sure, I've build it. Just look at the othe video's showing the build and testing.
Thank you. It was very instructional video.
did you use autocad?
No, I used 3ds Max (borrowed from a friendly company). It's from Autodesk as well.
Thank you Robert, it is the best video, and is the more litle, mi house is very little too. Anna
Robert, are you selling these rocket stove, and how many rooms can this model heat
I'm in the process of making my stove available for the commercial market. So be patient.
The model shown is about 5 to 10 kW.
Forcing the hot air down again may prove a problem? 😶
No problem. The draft created by the "inner chimney" (called the riser) is very strong. So strong that you actually don't need a chimey. Sometimes the flue is just ejected at the facade. But I think it is still wise to have a chimney. The exhaust temperature of rocket stoves is not very high, but still an external chimney can work.