I don't believe you should prime this type of lash adjuster and then install. If you do the valve gap can't self adjust and you may cause the valves to stay open. When the the lifters come pre-primed, that just shows they can hold pressure. I've just done an install on my Montero. I used a very thin allen key to gently press the check valve at the bottom of the oil hole and relieve the pressure on all the new lifters so they became squishy. I then installed them. On first start up they clatter until they pump themselves up from the oil pressure and expand to close the gap between the rocker and the valve. They then achieve a perfect fit. If you prime them before you install you may make them too big for the gap so the valves cant close properly. It can take a while for one or two to fill out. If they don't and keep ticking after a few days of use you have a dodgy one and need to install a new one. The bad one will be the one thats still squishy - Ive just done it about 4 times, these lifters made in China are not very good.
Thanks for the video. Picked up a 92 EFI B2200 a couple of weeks ago to play around with. It had an intermittent ticking that sounded exactly like in this video. Purchased 8 of the Melling lifters, some were pumped up and some weren't so I went through the priming procedure with all of them, worked great. Put everything back together and the ticking is gone! Sounds really smooth. FYI for some reason it looks like the camshaft moved. I noticed when you rotate the camshaft while the rocker arm assembly is bolted down at a certain point it just continues to turn all by itself from the valve spring loading I assume. Anyway, when I slid the cam gear off it must have settled forward or back (I don't know because I wasn't watching it.) So the marks I drew on the belt and gear with one of the bolts sticking out of the head didn't line up when I went to put it back together. Clearly something moved so I just positioned the crank pulley at the TDC mark and then the camshaft #1 on top marking of the head and put the gear and belt on. Fired right up. Your trick of sliding the gear off is great and for sure saved a ton of time not removing disty and coolant etc.. if I do this again I think before I took the belt off I'd rotate the crank until it and cam were both pointing to TDC in case something moved it would be real clear what moved and what to do. Thanks again for the video!
I do the same every year. And you can use the same process to clean out the lash adjusters. You submerge the adjusters prime and pump until all of the dirt will come out then prime in clean oil. Works great but you must replace all adjusters that have damaged
I was off today and started the car this morning, and had a loud tick. Was waiting for a day it would happen and not have to go to work. Took off the rockers, and since it was ticking at the time, it was obvious which one it was. One I could depress all the way. One other felt like it moved a little. So will replace those two. Hopefully no more ticks.
I have a 2.2L probe with the same type of engine, except 12 valves with the same lifters you use for yours (Same part number). I recently ran into an interesting issue with a lifter on the #1 exhaust valve. I just got the head machined and they had to replace an exhaust valve. Once the head was done, I installed everything back on the block and had no compression in #1. A leak down test revealed air entering into the exhaust manifold. I removed the valve cover and noticed the #1 exhaust rocker arm was applying pressure to the valve when it should have been fully closed (couldn't move the rocker side to side). I found that it was because the lifter was 'stuck' extended and wouldn't 'pump down'. Therefore, it was holding the valve open just a bit, enough to result in zero compression in that cylinder. I have never run into this problem before, having owned this car for 15+ years. I've always had issues with lifters not staying pumped up and ticking, but never one that held a valve open! It made me rethink if I should be priming new lifters or maybe the old lifter had debris in its oil hole preventing it from pumping down. Maybe the new valve height is slightly out of spec? Who knows. At any rate, I put in another spare lifter I had that was a little spongy and not fully primed. That did the trick and I have full compression in that cylinder again.
When replacing new hydraulic lifters, always bleed them before installing. if you don't do the bleed down the valves on some of the intake or exhaust will be pushed open and the vehicle will have no compression. The new lifters will tick for a few minutes and build up after running to engine. If they don't stop ticking after running a few minutes the lifters are defective. Putting them in with the lifters built up you risk the chances of bending a ex or intake valve. Just bleed them first and no worries with bending a valve stem .
I had a b2200 years ago. It would run fine and as I would drive it to work the oil pressure would drop until it starts tapping. I never fixed the problem even after getting the block rebuild. So I it was something in the head
I got some new ones, 6 from one shops and 6 from another. 6 of them can be pressed half way and the other 6 are solid. The old ones are squishy. Idk which ones should I use. Please help me
@@MazdaMitch I thought they suppose to be squishy. So after installing new lifters, the engine started knocking noise and when the cover was removed, one of the rocker is completely lose and valve is stuck inside. Did this happen due to air being inside lifters? 🥺 Now I have to open the head
Well that's different than the b2000 or the b2200 because the 2600 has some different oil jet stuff in the valve train, however the principal is the same. The lifters usually come primed but sometimes they do not and I prime them anyways They need to be solid before you put them in. We just did a head gasket replacement and I have video of doing this because we replaced his hydraulic lifters when we rebuilt the head. Put everything back together and it runs perfectly quiet. Those videos are coming out soon.
Did you take the valve train off and just flip it over and replace the hydro lifters or did you take it all apart? The reason I ask is sometimes when people take it all apart the valve train rails that fill with oil can get turned the wrong way and starve the hydraulic lifters of a motor oil and they'll never prime up.
@@B._Smith oh I misunderstood you. So you are referring to the silver lug nuts that are on the stock manifold on the exhaust side. Those are Chevy lug nuts They screw right on.
How far down should it go into the holders? My exhaust side actually kind of snaps in my intake side does no go down as far. Is there supposed to be a difference? In dept of how far it should go into unit?
There is plug you undo from one and swap to the other to start the milage timer over. Can't exactly explain it but it's in the shop manual here mazdaminitruckin.com
Hey Mitch, I ended up getting it done. Although, my engine still has the same tick. I noticed there are some smaller springs that almost look like valves nexts to the actual valves on the drivers side of the engine? What might those be and could they need adjusting? They have the nut and flathead screw look like the adjustable valves did. Thanks In advance.
@@MazdaMitch okay thanks for the reply. I got some ordered off Amazon, I should have ordered the ones you recommend on your priming video but the price on Amazon was too good.
Tick and make noise like crazy. The valve stems will beat dents into the lifters and you will not have proper valve adjustment with a collapsed lifter. It's making noise for a reason and the reason is they need to be replaced. Anytime something is making noise and it's not normal it's letting you know hello I need to be fixed!
More own the 2000 and 2200. The principal of priming and replacing the lifters are generally the same. On my website I have the full service manual and it covers the 2600. mazdaminitruckin.com
Depends on the year, but the original 2.6 was actually the Mitsubishi Astron used in Starion and the Chrysler K-cars. Mazda then made their own spin off engine based on the Mitsu but with a redesigned head. The 2.6 was fairly rare across the Mazda line, but was used in the early MPVs.
Yeah, shit, should have primed mine. (young guy, I'm a dumbass, lots to learn) Did mine after a lifter on a exhaust valve was totally stuck, drove home listening to 3 cylinders. Anyways, no ticking now, but if I don't drive the truck for 4-7 days it ticks for quiet awhile on start up, guess that's from the oil draining out, once the oil gets hot it goes away.
I don't believe you should prime this type of lash adjuster and then install. If you do the valve gap can't self adjust and you may cause the valves to stay open. When the the lifters come pre-primed, that just shows they can hold pressure. I've just done an install on my Montero. I used a very thin allen key to gently press the check valve at the bottom of the oil hole and relieve the pressure on all the new lifters so they became squishy. I then installed them. On first start up they clatter until they pump themselves up from the oil pressure and expand to close the gap between the rocker and the valve. They then achieve a perfect fit. If you prime them before you install you may make them too big for the gap so the valves cant close properly. It can take a while for one or two to fill out. If they don't and keep ticking after a few days of use you have a dodgy one and need to install a new one. The bad one will be the one thats still squishy - Ive just done it about 4 times, these lifters made in China are not very good.
Your timing is impeccable. Thanks for posting
Thanks for the video. Picked up a 92 EFI B2200 a couple of weeks ago to play around with. It had an intermittent ticking that sounded exactly like in this video. Purchased 8 of the Melling lifters, some were pumped up and some weren't so I went through the priming procedure with all of them, worked great. Put everything back together and the ticking is gone! Sounds really smooth. FYI for some reason it looks like the camshaft moved. I noticed when you rotate the camshaft while the rocker arm assembly is bolted down at a certain point it just continues to turn all by itself from the valve spring loading I assume. Anyway, when I slid the cam gear off it must have settled forward or back (I don't know because I wasn't watching it.) So the marks I drew on the belt and gear with one of the bolts sticking out of the head didn't line up when I went to put it back together. Clearly something moved so I just positioned the crank pulley at the TDC mark and then the camshaft #1 on top marking of the head and put the gear and belt on. Fired right up. Your trick of sliding the gear off is great and for sure saved a ton of time not removing disty and coolant etc.. if I do this again I think before I took the belt off I'd rotate the crank until it and cam were both pointing to TDC in case something moved it would be real clear what moved and what to do. Thanks again for the video!
I do the same every year.
And you can use the same process to clean out the lash adjusters.
You submerge the adjusters prime and pump until all of the dirt will come out then prime in clean oil.
Works great but you must replace all adjusters that have damaged
I was off today and started the car this morning, and had a loud tick. Was waiting for a day it would happen and not have to go to work. Took off the rockers, and since it was ticking at the time, it was obvious which one it was. One I could depress all the way. One other felt like it moved a little. So will replace those two. Hopefully no more ticks.
I have a 2.2L probe with the same type of engine, except 12 valves with the same lifters you use for yours (Same part number). I recently ran into an interesting issue with a lifter on the #1 exhaust valve. I just got the head machined and they had to replace an exhaust valve. Once the head was done, I installed everything back on the block and had no compression in #1. A leak down test revealed air entering into the exhaust manifold. I removed the valve cover and noticed the #1 exhaust rocker arm was applying pressure to the valve when it should have been fully closed (couldn't move the rocker side to side). I found that it was because the lifter was 'stuck' extended and wouldn't 'pump down'. Therefore, it was holding the valve open just a bit, enough to result in zero compression in that cylinder. I have never run into this problem before, having owned this car for 15+ years. I've always had issues with lifters not staying pumped up and ticking, but never one that held a valve open! It made me rethink if I should be priming new lifters or maybe the old lifter had debris in its oil hole preventing it from pumping down. Maybe the new valve height is slightly out of spec? Who knows. At any rate, I put in another spare lifter I had that was a little spongy and not fully primed. That did the trick and I have full compression in that cylinder again.
When replacing new hydraulic lifters, always bleed them before installing.
if you don't do the bleed down the valves on some of the intake or exhaust will be pushed open and the vehicle will have no compression.
The new lifters will tick for a few minutes and build up after running to engine. If they don't stop ticking after running a few minutes the lifters are defective.
Putting them in with the lifters built up you risk the chances of bending a ex or intake valve.
Just bleed them first and no worries with bending a valve stem .
I had a b2200 years ago. It would run fine and as I would drive it to work the oil pressure would drop until it starts tapping. I never fixed the problem even after getting the block rebuild. So I it was something in the head
Do you have any videos on and 86 B2000 lifters? I need to replace them I can’t find much info online.
Thank you for the head videos, my only question is what is the bes valve sprung decompressor that you have found that works well.
It may be in another video I posted but I used the one that's pretty small and you have to use your hand to turn it like it's a faucet on a spigot.
@MazdaMitch ok sorry i thought i had watched every video sorry, ill go look for it
@@gabrielreeves7579 like this. www.ebay.com/itm/364008383688
I got some new ones, 6 from one shops and 6 from another. 6 of them can be pressed half way and the other 6 are solid. The old ones are squishy. Idk which ones should I use. Please help me
Simply reprime them all like I show in the video.
@@MazdaMitch I thought they suppose to be squishy. So after installing new lifters, the engine started knocking noise and when the cover was removed, one of the rocker is completely lose and valve is stuck inside. Did this happen due to air being inside lifters? 🥺 Now I have to open the head
@@MazdaMitch also my car is bt50 with 2.6 G6 engine. It's fuel injected.
Well that's different than the b2000 or the b2200 because the 2600 has some different oil jet stuff in the valve train, however the principal is the same. The lifters usually come primed but sometimes they do not and I prime them anyways They need to be solid before you put them in. We just did a head gasket replacement and I have video of doing this because we replaced his hydraulic lifters when we rebuilt the head. Put everything back together and it runs perfectly quiet. Those videos are coming out soon.
Did you take the valve train off and just flip it over and replace the hydro lifters or did you take it all apart? The reason I ask is sometimes when people take it all apart the valve train rails that fill with oil can get turned the wrong way and starve the hydraulic lifters of a motor oil and they'll never prime up.
Are those tubing caps you used to plug off on the exaust manifold? What size?
Looks clean. Thanks for video.
Typical vacuum cap assortment you can get at your local parts supply house.
@@MazdaMitch I thought vacume caps would melt on the "exaust" manifold. Thanks for all the effort to make great helpful videos.
@@B._Smith oh I misunderstood you. So you are referring to the silver lug nuts that are on the stock manifold on the exhaust side. Those are Chevy lug nuts They screw right on.
probably an obvious answer but do you need to re time the engine since your opening up the top end and cam
Before you ever start this operation you need to have your engine in time
I bought the same melling lifters and they were not primed and I didn’t know they needed to be at the time so now I have to do it again.
Don't they "pump up" when the oil pressure increases when engine running? Asking, as I'm just learning/doing this now, and read otherwise. Thx
How far down should it go into the holders? My exhaust side actually kind of snaps in my intake side does no go down as far. Is there supposed to be a difference? In dept of how far it should go into unit?
They go in till they bottom out
Thank you Mitch, very useful information. Keep it coming brother 👊🏽
Como se calibra ese tipo de valvula hidraulica de mazda B2000
The b2000 has mechanical adjustment lifters that you have to adjust every 15k miles. This video is for the hydraulic lifters on the b2200
Do the slots in the top of the lifter need to line up with the slots in the tappets?
Nope
Hey Mitch i have a question off topic how do you get rid of a check engine light on 89 b2200 5 speed thanks
There is plug you undo from one and swap to the other to start the milage timer over. Can't exactly explain it but it's in the shop manual here mazdaminitruckin.com
Do you know anything about the 1.6 Mazda 323s? I just picked one up and I am hearing this noise.
The principal is the same
Can you add the video of how you get them off the engine? I have an 87 Mazda b2600 so it will be a little different but similar. Thank you
I plan on it.
Hey Mitch, I ended up getting it done. Although, my engine still has the same tick. I noticed there are some smaller springs that almost look like valves nexts to the actual valves on the drivers side of the engine? What might those be and could they need adjusting? They have the nut and flathead screw look like the adjustable valves did. Thanks In advance.
Mine doesn't tick at idle but can hear a slight tick while cruising is this normal for these lifters/engines?
When I had the same issue, it wasn't long and the Hydraulic lifters gave up and started chattering all the time.
@@MazdaMitch okay thanks for the reply. I got some ordered off Amazon, I should have ordered the ones you recommend on your priming video but the price on Amazon was too good.
Thanks alot man. Dumb ass me was replacing the hard ones with the squishy ones 🤣🤣🤣😢 They look exactly like Subaru legacy tappets too.
They are the same.
What type of oil?
Rotella 5w40 is all I use
@@MazdaMitch thanks 🙏
I am
Pretty sue it’s my lifter’s quieting down after 3 minutes.I am going to break down and change them.
Sorry please what do they do if you let them be?
Tick and make noise like crazy. The valve stems will beat dents into the lifters and you will not have proper valve adjustment with a collapsed lifter. It's making noise for a reason and the reason is they need to be replaced. Anytime something is making noise and it's not normal it's letting you know hello I need to be fixed!
Thanks bud, good info👍
Thanks, very useful 👍
What about 2600 ?
Same principle
Its my fren tenk u god bless
Nobody ever talks about the 2.6. Howcome no one has information on my truck?
More own the 2000 and 2200. The principal of priming and replacing the lifters are generally the same. On my website I have the full service manual and it covers the 2600. mazdaminitruckin.com
Depends on the year, but the original 2.6 was actually the Mitsubishi Astron used in Starion and the Chrysler K-cars. Mazda then made their own spin off engine based on the Mitsu but with a redesigned head. The 2.6 was fairly rare across the Mazda line, but was used in the early MPVs.
These melling lifters are up to $8.99 each.
Yeah, shit, should have primed mine. (young guy, I'm a dumbass, lots to learn) Did mine after a lifter on a exhaust valve was totally stuck, drove home listening to 3 cylinders.
Anyways, no ticking now, but if I don't drive the truck for 4-7 days it ticks for quiet awhile on start up, guess that's from the oil draining out, once the oil gets hot it goes away.
Don’t use chinos I put brand new chinos in and am very sad Mexicos are on the way
5
Looks like a non-interference engine. Probably the reason none yall bendin valves
No one's bending valves and the B2000/2200 engines are NON interference engines
Waist of time