You do not need to remove the entire assembly (as shown) If you simply slide the “lock collar” (looks like a ring) under the float assembly, you can then slide the entire top half of the valve up, and off the bottom half (inlet) Then push the top portion of the new valve back down over the old inlet tube to the correct height for the tank, and slide the “lock collar” down to lock it in to place. You can also change the rubber seal of the fill valve by disconnecting the float assembly from the bar of the fill valve, and tuning it quarter turn to un-lock. Then do the same to re-install (plenty of videos on this) Saves a lot of time, no tools needed, and virtually no mess.
So I installed the unit you installed and the constant running stopped, but initially there is an occasional release of air, I suspect. Will that persist or did I do something wrong? Thank you.
Good video. thanks, btw...@8:25 what's that third assembly, also white plastic, to the right of the blue and white flush tower to which the white plastic filler hose is attached.? I called American Standard and they say their manual ONLY shows the fill valve on the left, and the flush tower with the blue and white buttons but nothing else
now we need one for a toilet that keeps dripping water into the bowl 'after' shutting off the entry. i.e. it's the other valve assembly where the fault is. This video about the inlet valve: 'fill valve'. Need one about the 'exit', 'empty' valve.
Has this fix stood the test of time? We have the same toilet, and we were told it would leak if we didn't replace parts with American Standard brand. Please let me know, thanks!
You do not need to remove the entire assembly (as shown) If you simply slide the “lock collar” (looks like a ring) under the float assembly, you can then slide the entire top half of the valve up, and off the bottom half (inlet) Then push the top portion of the new valve back down over the old inlet tube to the correct height for the tank, and slide the “lock collar” down to lock it in to place. You can also change the rubber seal of the fill valve by disconnecting the float assembly from the bar of the fill valve, and tuning it quarter turn to un-lock. Then do the same to re-install (plenty of videos on this) Saves a lot of time, no tools needed, and virtually no mess.
So I installed the unit you installed and the constant running stopped, but initially there is an occasional release of air, I suspect. Will that persist or did I do something wrong? Thank you.
Ok I followed your steps exactly and it worked! Cost $9 and I (a ditzy dingbat) did it no problem. Thank you so much for this video
mine sounds like it stops but the valve keeps weeping. tried cleaning the rubber seal and such no luck. I will try this 400 unit thanks
Good video. thanks, btw...@8:25 what's that third assembly, also white plastic, to the right of the blue and white flush tower to which the white plastic filler hose is attached.? I called American Standard and they say their manual ONLY shows the fill valve on the left, and the flush tower with the blue and white buttons but nothing else
That is where water trickles into the bowl while the tank is filling.
now we need one for a toilet that keeps dripping water into the bowl 'after' shutting off the entry. i.e. it's the other valve assembly where the fault is. This video about the inlet valve: 'fill valve'. Need one about the 'exit', 'empty' valve.
Thank you very much I appreciate it 🙏
Has this fix stood the test of time? We have the same toilet, and we were told it would leak if we didn't replace parts with American Standard brand. Please let me know, thanks!
Working just fine.
@@mundaneman254 thanks!
Thanks 👍 a lot man
Plastic parts = guaranteed to need replacement
New fluid master 400A new flapper
Still runs every 2 mins.
Grrrrrr