I bought this chainsaw a year ago at that time no one on here had such an informative video such as yourself. So thank you so much for that. I have logged with this saw. Maybe should have bought the rancher. But this saw at a budget will do on the back of a quad. Just learn how to properly take care of that chain. And maintain your machine it will always perform properly. Coming from the guy that had trouble at first. Knowing things now from older guys. And then reviewing my knowledge looking this up. Really reviewed things for a guy. That last tip is pretty awesome man. Like this video should go all the way! It’s should be sponsored by stihl. Thanks again. To all the people out there listen up to this. Keep oil in it. And always have a sharp chain. Don’t over sharpen and loose those teeth or you will burn twice as much fuel and oil your cuts won’t be straight, and you’ll be forcing the saw. It isn’t a very powerful machine so. It will bogg. Compared to the husky at this size. If it’s sharp and maintained it won’t do this. It will cut easier. I’ve cut huge pine logs oak cherry with it. It’s great for the 200$
Thank you, thank you, thank you, Dony !! I took my bar tensioner off to swap for a newer mod... the gears on the new one didn't mesh properly, so I thought I'd just put the origional one back in. I had the pin that moves the bar, UPSIDE DOWN..... I worked like a bugger for 2 hours, then I decided to check out what you might be saying about my Stihl MS170. You NAILED IT AGAIN. Thanks, Bud
Well said donyboy73. I bought my ms 170 12 years ago and got extra bars when they were cheaper. Put some upgrades on her and still running strong 💪 no problems for how old it is. It's my go around saw for emergencies, truck or side by side ❤ just keep it clean and maintain 👌 💯 😉 🦅🦅🦅😊
I bet you did and do check the oiler to see if there is oil "tracking" onto a card board or other dry surface. The drive spur or rim also needs to be checked/replaced when bar/chains are so worn as the pitch may be a bit off due to wear. I am nuts, perhaps, but when changing chains or flipping bars I pre-oil the bar groove and if the nose sprocket has no greasing holes, I oil that sprocket too. I figure its like an engine, those first few seconds without oil will be a time of high wear.
Good info Don. I have an MS170 for small jobs around our 3 1/2 acres...nice little saw too. Got lucky last Fall when I was visiting our local Habitat For Humanity ReStore...they had a brans new chain (in the box) for $5.00...I grabbed that quick. lol I also replaced that front tensioner screw system with the side tensioner (same as the M250), just a small change but big difference to me. Cheers from NB
The blueing discolouration on the old bar indicates it either has an oiling problem or was run without oil , the remaining paint on the bar tells me this is not a high mileage saw . Check oiling before just fitting a new bar and chain and when you do fit a new bar and chain , manually apply some oil and get it lubed BEFORE running it , why would you wait for the oil pump while a dry chain is spinning around a dry bar ?
I have 26 acres and 3 Stihl saws I use a couple of times a month. I know this is a dumb question but when it comes time to change my bar, the specs are invariably worn out and cannot be read. I always struggle to find specs for a new bar, chain and file. Obviously a Stihl dealer should know but that hasn’t always been the case. Surely there must be some obvious reference for these questions. It shouldn’t be complicated. Any guidance would help.
Don, I have the Stihl 262C saw with a 24 inch bar. When I go to install a new or freshly sharpened chain, I struggle to put the chain and bar on at the same time. There are 2 washers the chain must fit between on the sprokett making it even more challenging. The weight of the bar also makes it difficult to put on the saw while it is sitting on it's side. Any other recommendadtions for putting a long bar/chain on a saw? Thanks! Skip
grouse work Donny mate well explained for sure from my view and yep i believe that,s not any different on the old pole pruning saws for sure but yeah they have no chain brake as the only difference from memory but yeah like a piece of wood if it,s no good from the ground up well i say it,s better off to be avoiding sheared problem in the long run for sure and here in Australia during our Autumn/Fall season 🍂 yep when we are getting the fire wood ready to stock up well this is one to take for granted to avoid a serious costly repair or a accident for the operator for sure and cheers from Australia 🐨🐑🦘🌴🌳🇦🇺 or the land down under to your area in Canada.🍁🇨🇦
This is off topic but I trust your opinion more than most. I’m trying to remove stuck spindle pulleys from my Bad Boy deck. I used my Snap On 2 jaw puller on it after soaking it with Kroil. I would get the puller tight and smack the top of the puller with a hammer. After bending the pulley and an hour later it finally came off. What is the best penetrating oil. I got that pulley off and the Kroil never got down on the shaft. I watch you all the time. Please help
Any penetrating is ok but bot the magic bullet. This is how I safely remove pulleys and sometimes I also heat them. th-cam.com/video/dm5H0mjSGFM/w-d-xo.html
I have done some stupid things with my 170. First one is i had the chain off and realized I put it on backwards and then turned it around. Another time I had to replace the sprocket and I didn't line up the groove for the oil pump which cost me a new bar and I also replaced the chain. Another time I had cleaned the saw and one of the bar nuts came off and then noticed the other one was ready to fall off as well, so i didn't tighten them up. I bought my saw in Florida and one of the times I was trying to start it. I pulled and pulled it and it wouldn't start. So I put it in the back of my truck and drove 20 miles to the dealer and the mechanic pulled it one time and it started and I felt like an idiot. So maybe there was dirt or something in the carburetor or something and from the jaring in the back of my truck cleaned it out, not sure. The new stihl 250 chainsaw i bought last year is hard to start, which I didn't know that it would be otherwise i probably would have bought a different one. It leaks so bad as far as bar oil and the dealer has changed out the cap 3 times. So while it sits on the shelf i keep that tank empty otherwise it runs everywhere and I told this to the dealer does it have a crack in the tank, because it shouldn't leak like it does. My 170 doesn't leak a drop. The 250 doesn't look like it comes out of the cap. The first time I took it back she says to me maybe I didn't put the cap on correctly and I told her it only goes on one way! I should have bought a battery powered chainsaw
I would go for 3/8" 0.050 gauge bar and chain. Buckin Billy Ray Smith suggested that if your bar rail is worn out try if a larger gauge chain fits. So in this case 0.050". I always tighten my chain to a very light sloppy, also saves on the rail and nose sprocket.
I’ dress my own bars. When appropriate close the gap. Others have said just put thicker drivers. Read about if wiggles too much. Nothing as far as the rail’s thickness. Are there any guidelines?
The reason that I don’t like the 170 is because of the .043 gage. It makes the chain hard to get on the sprocket, without it sliding over and get jammed between the sprocket washer and the sprocket. A .050 gauge chain will not get jammed in this slot because it is too thick to fit this thin slot.
Dony Help!!! My stihl saw starts and runs great for about one minute Then dies …. Restarts runs like a sewing machine for one minute and dies Help me super man!!!
🔻Watch next 🔻
How To Install A More Robust Bar & Chain On A Stihl Ms180, 170, 018, 017 Chainsaw
th-cam.com/video/DrFM-8C-qV0/w-d-xo.html
I bought this chainsaw a year ago at that time no one on here had such an informative video such as yourself. So thank you so much for that.
I have logged with this saw. Maybe should have bought the rancher. But this saw at a budget will do on the back of a quad. Just learn how to properly take care of that chain. And maintain your machine it will always perform properly.
Coming from the guy that had trouble at first. Knowing things now from older guys. And then reviewing my knowledge looking this up. Really reviewed things for a guy. That last tip is pretty awesome man. Like this video should go all the way! It’s should be sponsored by stihl. Thanks again. To all the people out there listen up to this. Keep oil in it. And always have a sharp chain. Don’t over sharpen and loose those teeth or you will burn twice as much fuel and oil your cuts won’t be straight, and you’ll be forcing the saw. It isn’t a very powerful machine so. It will bogg. Compared to the husky at this size. If it’s sharp and maintained it won’t do this. It will cut easier. I’ve cut huge pine logs oak cherry with it. It’s great for the 200$
Great tip on retightening the new chain after a minute and letting it cool before readjustmentThanks
Thank you, thank you, thank you, Dony !! I took my bar tensioner off to swap for a newer mod... the gears on the new one didn't mesh properly, so I thought I'd just put the origional one back in. I had the pin that moves the bar, UPSIDE DOWN..... I worked like a bugger for 2 hours, then I decided to check out what you might be saying about my Stihl MS170. You NAILED IT AGAIN. Thanks, Bud
Thanks, your channel is by far the best for basic saw and small engine information.
Well said donyboy73. I bought my ms 170 12 years ago and got extra bars when they were cheaper. Put some upgrades on her and still running strong 💪 no problems for how old it is. It's my go around saw for emergencies, truck or side by side ❤ just keep it clean and maintain 👌 💯 😉 🦅🦅🦅😊
Good video, just did this 2 days ago because of a worn out groove and chain.
Great video!
I bet you did and do check the oiler to see if there is oil "tracking" onto a card board or other dry surface. The drive spur or rim also needs to be checked/replaced when bar/chains are so worn as the pitch may be a bit off due to wear. I am nuts, perhaps, but when changing chains or flipping bars I pre-oil the bar groove and if the nose sprocket has no greasing holes, I oil that sprocket too. I figure its like an engine, those first few seconds without oil will be a time of high wear.
Good info Don. I have an MS170 for small jobs around our 3 1/2 acres...nice little saw too. Got lucky last Fall when I was visiting our local Habitat For Humanity ReStore...they had a brans new chain (in the box) for $5.00...I grabbed that quick. lol
I also replaced that front tensioner screw system with the side tensioner (same as the M250), just a small change but big difference to me.
Cheers from NB
Thank you so much very helpful
Very well explained and filmed. Thanks for the tips and demo!!😊
TY for Sharing
Excellent advice Don, thanks buddy, have a great weekend
New saw people need to learn somewhere thanks Don ..
Thanks Donny
The blueing discolouration on the old bar indicates it either has an oiling problem or was run without oil , the remaining paint on the bar tells me this is not a high mileage saw . Check oiling before just fitting a new bar and chain and when you do fit a new bar and chain , manually apply some oil and get it lubed BEFORE running it , why would you wait for the oil pump while a dry chain is spinning around a dry bar ?
Nope
Dull chain, clueless operator
Great video Dony. Seems very late for snow, wow
Thank you for the video very helpful
Good day Don Interesting video, especially with tension breaking crankshaft Wow ! Thanks
I've seen it twice in 20 years!
@@donyboy73 Wow hard to believe,
but very good to know Thanks Don I
like ur videos from Kit-Waterloo area
Scrench! That’s a first.
I have 26 acres and 3 Stihl saws I use a couple of times a month. I know this is a dumb question but when it comes time to change my bar, the specs are invariably worn out and cannot be read. I always struggle to find specs for a new bar, chain and file. Obviously a Stihl dealer should know but that hasn’t always been the case. Surely there must be some obvious reference for these questions. It shouldn’t be complicated. Any guidance would help.
Don, I have the Stihl 262C saw with a 24 inch bar. When I go to install a new or freshly sharpened chain, I struggle to put the chain and bar on at the same time. There are 2 washers the chain must fit between on the sprokett making it even more challenging. The weight of the bar also makes it difficult to put on the saw while it is sitting on it's side. Any other recommendadtions for putting a long bar/chain on a saw? Thanks! Skip
Given the low cost, I'd probably also renew the spur sprocket if it was showing wear and also the crank race bearing too.
grouse work Donny mate well explained for sure from my view and yep i believe that,s not any different on the old pole pruning saws for sure but yeah they have no chain brake as the only difference from memory but yeah like a piece of wood if it,s no good from the ground up well i say it,s better off to be avoiding sheared problem in the long run for sure and here in Australia during our Autumn/Fall season 🍂 yep when we are getting the fire wood ready to stock up well this is one to take for granted to avoid a serious costly repair or a accident for the operator for sure and cheers from Australia 🐨🐑🦘🌴🌳🇦🇺 or the land down under to your area in Canada.🍁🇨🇦
Great tips Dony.
Thanks 👍
Great video Dony !Do you check to see if the sprocket is in need of replacing? Do you make sure the bar oil is getting to the chain ?
Yes I do.
Up grade the chain tensioner to the side, there’s a hole between the nuts
👍👍👍. Thank you
I’m about to buy one of these
If you can, buy the 171 for the adjustable carb. Its quite a must (in my opinion)
Buy one before they all go electric!
Can I fit a 16 inch bar and chain to my ms170
This is off topic but I trust your opinion more than most. I’m trying to remove stuck spindle pulleys from my Bad Boy deck. I used my Snap On 2 jaw puller on it after soaking it with Kroil. I would get the puller tight and smack the top of the puller with a hammer. After bending the pulley and an hour later it finally came off. What is the best penetrating oil. I got that pulley off and the Kroil never got down on the shaft. I watch you all the time. Please help
Any penetrating is ok but bot the magic bullet. This is how I safely remove pulleys and sometimes I also heat them. th-cam.com/video/dm5H0mjSGFM/w-d-xo.html
@@donyboy73 Thanks. I now remember watching that one before. Thanks for the refresher. On my way to do them that way
I have done some stupid things with my 170. First one is i had the chain off and realized I put it on backwards and then turned it around. Another time I had to replace the sprocket and I didn't line up the groove for the oil pump which cost me a new bar and I also replaced the chain. Another time I had cleaned the saw and one of the bar nuts came off and then noticed the other one was ready to fall off as well, so i didn't tighten them up. I bought my saw in Florida and one of the times I was trying to start it. I pulled and pulled it and it wouldn't start. So I put it in the back of my truck and drove 20 miles to the dealer and the mechanic pulled it one time and it started and I felt like an idiot. So maybe there was dirt or something in the carburetor or something and from the jaring in the back of my truck cleaned it out, not sure. The new stihl 250 chainsaw i bought last year is hard to start, which I didn't know that it would be otherwise i probably would have bought a different one. It leaks so bad as far as bar oil and the dealer has changed out the cap 3 times. So while it sits on the shelf i keep that tank empty otherwise it runs everywhere and I told this to the dealer does it have a crack in the tank, because it shouldn't leak like it does. My 170 doesn't leak a drop. The 250 doesn't look like it comes out of the cap. The first time I took it back she says to me maybe I didn't put the cap on correctly and I told her it only goes on one way! I should have bought a battery powered chainsaw
I would go for 3/8" 0.050 gauge bar and chain. Buckin Billy Ray Smith suggested that if your bar rail is worn out try if a larger gauge chain fits. So in this case 0.050". I always tighten my chain to a very light sloppy, also saves on the rail and nose sprocket.
Yes I have a video on that too!
Entonces Dani si usas una cadena muy apretada puedes trozar el cigüeñal ese problema lo tengo con una motosierra Stihl 210
si
Muy bien gracias saludos Dani@donyboy73
I’ dress my own bars. When appropriate close the gap. Others have said just put thicker drivers. Read about if wiggles too much. Nothing as far as the rail’s thickness. Are there any guidelines?
The reason that I don’t like the 170 is because of the .043 gage. It makes the chain hard to get on the sprocket, without it sliding over and get jammed between the sprocket washer and the sprocket. A .050 gauge chain will not get jammed in this slot because it is too thick to
fit this thin slot.
I do have a video doing that conversion.
@@donyboy73Yes, the 14" .050 is worlds better. When I bought bc on sale, my hometown OPE dealer swapped to the .050, their suggestion and no charge !
@@lovestihlquality1369 Great dealer!
@@donyboy73
Can you share the link to that video please. Thank!
@@apexiumim2741 I pinned it in the comments
Dony
Help!!!
My stihl saw starts and runs great for about one minute
Then dies ….
Restarts runs like a sewing machine for one minute and dies
Help me super man!!!