Hi there! My name is Nick and I have recently started a 5 year photography course. I was raised by my grandpa and he gifted me his old Bell & Howell, this exact same model, 5 weeks ago. 3 days later he fell and had an accident causing him to end up in hospital. The environment of the hospital hasn't done him any good and In about a month time he went from having the accident, to the diagnosis of Alzheimer and him not remembering who I am or where he is sadly enough. It's all gone so fast. Anyway I really want to get his camera going, maybe it can bring back some memories for him, or at least I can use it later in his legacy. Your video really helped me and I couldn't thank you enough for it. I'm sorry I don't want to bring you a sad story, but in contrary I just wanted to tell you that sometimes videos can really make an impact, wheter it's to a 1000 people or just a few. You really made my day and I hope you keep doing what you do so many more people can be helped from your vids :) Greetings from Belgium, Nick
These reviews you do are so awesome they are driving me nuts, just started developing my own stuff so got confident enough to pick up a graflex but movie film is totally going to be the next step for me. All these little cameras are so cheap, why I wouldn't pick something up soon I don't know.
Love Bell and Howell cameras of this era! If you're new to filmmaking, I'd urge you to avoid selenium meter fully automatic, non-adjustable cameras, mainly because of the way that selenium meters age. Sometimes you get lucky and the meter's accurate, such as with the example in the video. However, I've found that to be the exception. Even if the meter reacts to differing light intensity, the selenium cell over time may lose sensitivity, so that, for example, while the camera might be set for ASA/ISO 40, it could be reacting as though it were ASA/ISO 20. Also, even if you were to adjust the camera to an effective ASA/ISO, the aged selenium cell changes aren't linear, so (as an example) a scene in bright light might be shown as an effective ASA/ISO 20, but dim light could be an effective ASA/ISO 10. Check the accuracy of selenium cell meters over a wide variety of conditions, from bright light to dim light, against another meter (I use a cell phone meter app, such as Light Meter.) Since film isn't free you'll want to be absolutely sure you're exposing it properly.
Great video, and love the home movie. Did you know that this camera is a similar model to the one used by Abraham Zapruder when he filmed the most famous (and tragic) home movie in the history of the U.S.?
Have you guys even used a Wittnauer Cine-Twin camera/projector combo? I got one at a swap meet last week but couldn’t find any footage on TH-cam shot with this odd camera. But hey it works! And came with its own set of D-mount lenses. But there is no speed adjustment so you’re stuck shooting 16FPS with it.
Would you guys ever do a video about the Bell & Howell 311 super 8 cam - hard to find documentation on it online and would like to know if the auto exposure feature still works!
Another great video, Mike. I purchased the Bell & Howell similar to yours but the lens needs replacing. I managed to find a lens but not sure how to replace it. Is it just a matter of removing those two tiny screws? I'd like to get this 1962 414PD running again.
Great stuff i believe kodak had the film in cans to make it easier to load it, basically all you had to do is put the film can which came in 2 sizes, 25ft rolls or 50ft all up counting both sides of the double 8 or 50ft each side which is 100ft of film, which is the 414D serries or the camera which they say zapruder used?
I had a camera like that about 20 years ago. It had the zoom option and a it had an 85A filter option for Tungsten film. It got lost in the shuffle. Took many Kodachrome movies with that type of camera.
Film came out good, but as you mentioned the auto only function is something to be leary of. A manual camera can be used regardless of the condition of the light meter plus allows you to use all available film stock speeds.
Hey Mike! I just ended up with two of these specific B&H movie cameras. One looks pristine, winds, runs, the optics seem pretty clear -- all seems good except no response of the red indicator regardless of ISO/ASA setting or how bright of a light I use. I used another light and peered down through the lens. The aperture blades seem slightly closed and never move. The second one runs, is a little more beaten up, but the optics seem OK. Now on this one the red indicator moves when I shine a light on the selenium cell, and reacts differently with the different ISO/ASA settings. And I can see the aperture blades move down at the bottom of the lens. Yay! But I have a question -- there seems to be no fps setting anywhere on the camera -- so should I assume that it is regular 16fps? Have not found a manual or guide online to confirm. I hope that you and the FPP family had a great 4th of July!!!
@@FilmPhotographyProject Okie-Dokie! Now -- my "Dr. Frankenstein" brain is thinking of what to do with the one where the aperture does not respond. I'll see if I can get to the "electronics" and check those out, and see if I can get to the ap blades to lube them (that looks tough). Maybe I'll just convert the whole thing into an ultra-retro 8K video camera!!!! 🙂
One of these cameras was given to me by my neighbor, it was sitting in their garage for years and now it’s been sitting in my room for months while I think about how In the world to operate it. I’ll admit, I’m a total beginner with film cameras, though I have multiple that I’ve collected from flea markets over the years. I’m wanting to start though! The camera kindaaa works, I gave it a wind and held down on the trigger attachment and it started going. Only problem, the aperture is broken. Tried the light test and nothin. This might be a stupid question, but is there any way to repair the aperture, and get it working again? Great video by the way!
Hi, I actually bought this same camera recently. I believe the Aperture is burnt out based on the test I did. Is there a way to get that replaced, or is it a lost cause?
Got this camera and it has film in it. But it is in the feeding spool. So it can be it is not exposed or only one "track" exposed. (Ofcourse nobody knows.) How long is the film on a full spool? I want to develop a piece of it in a normal tank, but I guess for the entire film (if there is something on the beginning of it) I will need a Lomo 16 mm long tank.
What about getting a 8mm projector which would show the Kodachrome 2 A film stock test one of those after all Zapruder would need one to view any of the films he took with his camera ?
Is there an email to reach these guys? I want to send a picture of my issue. The place where the film goes mine looks different than theirs so I don’t know if it’s broken or just doesn’t work or if I need to buy Different type of film. It’s the bell and Howell zoomatic magazine 8mm” perpetua electric eye.
Mine is similar to this, but no manual aperture or film speed ISO. It has a "film speed lever" underneath the electric eye part. Any idea what that does?
The film speed refers to ISO - not to be confused with FPS (frames per second). So, the film speed is the ISO of the film you are using. We suggest using FPP Cine8 40 iso film and setting this dial to 40.
9:48 Wait, how is your takeup spool empty when you finished your filming? Does it not go like upper spool to lower spool, reverse, upper spool to lower spool again? At the end you get the lower spool out and send to develop, or not?
Watch the video again. When you're done shooting, your take up spool will be empty (And remain with your camera - empty til you're ready to shoot again). If your camera camera with an old roll, use it to practice load and make sure your camera's motor had enough 'torque" to pull the entire roll through. (The vintage roll is old Kodachrome - th-cam.com/video/M8zzOK_dczE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KPxvRf4D0YYjqnwL)
@@FilmPhotographyProject I guess it is more understandable when we call it upper roll and lower roll. When you finish shooting (the first track as the second too) your film always ends up on the lower spoool. Interestingly my found film is on the upper spool. No, I do not intend to ewer feed this camera with fresh film. (Lightmeter and spring seem to be in working order though.) My interest is to bring the images taken by the previous owner from latent to watchable image. Just gave a sniplet of film a bath in fixer. It does not clear up but gets brown. Does it mean it is no bw film?
It’s amazing how good some 8mm cameras look, I have a Bolex 8mm camera with prime lenses and it looks better any super 8 camera I have used in sharpness and color reproduction
@@gabocg24 it has been a while, but yes, I opened the front and gently sprayed Deoxit near the needle pivot. (Very gently). Then I put a flashlight in front of the light meter on and off. By doing that the needle started to move. So I sprayed a little more Deoxit and continued to "stimulate" the meter sensor with the flashlight. Eventually the light meter regained its full range. Now it works perfectly. No need to disassemble anything. It's just enough to open the front so that you can reach inside whith the Deoxit straw. Be careful not to actually touch the meter assembly. It's very delicate.
@@gianlusc It was stuck, but after unsticking it, I can now confirm the meter doesn't work. It's permanently wide open. It's not too bad, tho, I think I'll use an external meter and ND filters to account for the f1.8 when shooting in a bright environment :) tysm!
I just became the owner of a Bell and Howell Electric Eye and it’s nice to see TH-cam channels making videos about older style film/video cameras
Hi there! My name is Nick and I have recently started a 5 year photography course. I was raised by my grandpa and he gifted me his old Bell & Howell, this exact same model, 5 weeks ago. 3 days later he fell and had an accident causing him to end up in hospital. The environment of the hospital hasn't done him any good and In about a month time he went from having the accident, to the diagnosis of Alzheimer and him not remembering who I am or where he is sadly enough. It's all gone so fast. Anyway I really want to get his camera going, maybe it can bring back some memories for him, or at least I can use it later in his legacy. Your video really helped me and I couldn't thank you enough for it. I'm sorry I don't want to bring you a sad story, but in contrary I just wanted to tell you that sometimes videos can really make an impact, wheter it's to a 1000 people or just a few. You really made my day and I hope you keep doing what you do so many more people can be helped from your vids :) Greetings from Belgium, Nick
Hello Nick. Thank you for the comments and best wishes for your Grandpa - Mike
I had this model camera. I wish I still had it.
Love the video! Whenever you guys could get the opportunity, I’d love a video on the Bell and Howell 240 electric eye 16 mm camera as well!
Noted! - Mike
These reviews you do are so awesome they are driving me nuts, just started developing my own stuff so got confident enough to pick up a graflex but movie film is totally going to be the next step for me. All these little cameras are so cheap, why I wouldn't pick something up soon I don't know.
Love Bell and Howell cameras of this era! If you're new to filmmaking, I'd urge you to avoid selenium meter fully automatic, non-adjustable cameras, mainly because of the way that selenium meters age. Sometimes you get lucky and the meter's accurate, such as with the example in the video. However, I've found that to be the exception. Even if the meter reacts to differing light intensity, the selenium cell over time may lose sensitivity, so that, for example, while the camera might be set for ASA/ISO 40, it could be reacting as though it were ASA/ISO 20. Also, even if you were to adjust the camera to an effective ASA/ISO, the aged selenium cell changes aren't linear, so (as an example) a scene in bright light might be shown as an effective ASA/ISO 20, but dim light could be an effective ASA/ISO 10. Check the accuracy of selenium cell meters over a wide variety of conditions, from bright light to dim light, against another meter (I use a cell phone meter app, such as Light Meter.) Since film isn't free you'll want to be absolutely sure you're exposing it properly.
Great video, and love the home movie. Did you know that this camera is a similar model to the one used by Abraham Zapruder when he filmed the most famous (and tragic) home movie in the history of the U.S.?
Have you guys even used a Wittnauer Cine-Twin camera/projector combo? I got one at a swap meet last week but couldn’t find any footage on TH-cam shot with this odd camera. But hey it works! And came with its own set of D-mount lenses. But there is no speed adjustment so you’re stuck shooting 16FPS with it.
Would you guys ever do a video about the Bell & Howell 311 super 8 cam - hard to find documentation on it online and would like to know if the auto exposure feature still works!
We don't currently have a Bell & Howell 311 super 8 cam to test. If one comes along, for sure. - Mike
Hello, yours is a model 310F, the 312DF has dual Electric Eyes and has built in filter selections on the lens body.
Another great video, Mike. I purchased the Bell & Howell similar to yours but the lens needs replacing. I managed to find a lens but not sure how to replace it. Is it just a matter of removing those two tiny screws? I'd like to get this 1962 414PD running again.
Not sure if the lens can be replaced since it isn't a camera that has D-Mount interchangeable lenses. Might be best to just replace the camera?
414 PD this is the model used by Zapruder
Great stuff i believe kodak had the film in cans to make it easier to load it, basically all you had to do is put the film can which came in 2 sizes, 25ft rolls or 50ft all up counting both sides of the double 8 or 50ft each side which is 100ft of film, which is the 414D serries or the camera which they say zapruder used?
I had a camera like that about 20 years ago. It had the zoom option and a it had an 85A filter option for Tungsten film. It got lost in the shuffle. Took many Kodachrome movies with that type of camera.
I have an identical one.. but the model is "310F" acording to the box.
Film came out good, but as you mentioned the auto only function is something to be leary of. A manual camera can be used regardless of the condition of the light meter plus allows you to use all available film stock speeds.
Agreed. Most folks thrift this camera before they know of the PITFALL! - Mike
Hey Mike! I just ended up with two of these specific B&H movie cameras. One looks pristine, winds, runs, the optics seem pretty clear -- all seems good except no response of the red indicator regardless of ISO/ASA setting or how bright of a light I use. I used another light and peered down through the lens. The aperture blades seem slightly closed and never move. The second one runs, is a little more beaten up, but the optics seem OK. Now on this one the red indicator moves when I shine a light on the selenium cell, and reacts differently with the different ISO/ASA settings. And I can see the aperture blades move down at the bottom of the lens. Yay! But I have a question -- there seems to be no fps setting anywhere on the camera -- so should I assume that it is regular 16fps? Have not found a manual or guide online to confirm. I hope that you and the FPP family had a great 4th of July!!!
Many 8mm cameras including the Bell & Howell Electric Eye run at 16 frames per second with no option for adjustment.
@@FilmPhotographyProject Okie-Dokie! Now -- my "Dr. Frankenstein" brain is thinking of what to do with the one where the aperture does not respond. I'll see if I can get to the "electronics" and check those out, and see if I can get to the ap blades to lube them (that looks tough). Maybe I'll just convert the whole thing into an ultra-retro 8K video camera!!!! 🙂
One of these cameras was given to me by my neighbor, it was sitting in their garage for years and now it’s been sitting in my room for months while I think about how In the world to operate it. I’ll admit, I’m a total beginner with film cameras, though I have multiple that I’ve collected from flea markets over the years. I’m wanting to start though! The camera kindaaa works, I gave it a wind and held down on the trigger attachment and it started going. Only problem, the aperture is broken. Tried the light test and nothin. This might be a stupid question, but is there any way to repair the aperture, and get it working again? Great video by the way!
No know repair - back to the shelf! :(
@@FilmPhotographyProject gah, bummer!! Thank you for letting me know!
Hi, I actually bought this same camera recently. I believe the Aperture is burnt out based on the test I did. Is there a way to get that replaced, or is it a lost cause?
What about the sound?? How does one get sound on the film?
Regular 8mm (a.k.a. Double 8 film) does not have sound.
Is it possible you can make a video on the Zupruder camera? Like how to use it?
podcast - th-cam.com/video/j5prrf3QCbQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7icexf89GsnBcNBz
Got this camera and it has film in it. But it is in the feeding spool. So it can be it is not exposed or only one "track" exposed. (Ofcourse nobody knows.) How long is the film on a full spool? I want to develop a piece of it in a normal tank, but I guess for the entire film (if there is something on the beginning of it) I will need a Lomo 16 mm long tank.
Do you offer Kodak's 50D for super8 on 100' rolls? I would love to use it in my Bolex H8
Where do u buy film for this camera
filmphotographystore.com/collections/movie-film/double-8
What about getting a 8mm projector which would show the Kodachrome 2 A film stock test one of those after all Zapruder would need one to view any of the films he took with his camera ?
Is there an email to reach these guys? I want to send a picture of my issue. The place where the film goes mine looks different than theirs so I don’t know if it’s broken or just doesn’t work or if I need to buy Different type of film. It’s the bell and Howell zoomatic magazine 8mm” perpetua electric eye.
Michael@FilmPhotographyProject.com
Mine is similar to this, but no manual aperture or film speed ISO. It has a "film speed lever" underneath the electric eye part. Any idea what that does?
The film speed refers to ISO - not to be confused with FPS (frames per second). So, the film speed is the ISO of the film you are using. We suggest using FPP Cine8 40 iso film and setting this dial to 40.
9:48 Wait, how is your takeup spool empty when you finished your filming? Does it not go like upper spool to lower spool, reverse, upper spool to lower spool again? At the end you get the lower spool out and send to develop, or not?
Watch the video again. When you're done shooting, your take up spool will be empty (And remain with your camera - empty til you're ready to shoot again). If your camera camera with an old roll, use it to practice load and make sure your camera's motor had enough 'torque" to pull the entire roll through. (The vintage roll is old Kodachrome - th-cam.com/video/M8zzOK_dczE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KPxvRf4D0YYjqnwL)
@@FilmPhotographyProject I guess it is more understandable when we call it upper roll and lower roll. When you finish shooting (the first track as the second too) your film always ends up on the lower spoool.
Interestingly my found film is on the upper spool.
No, I do not intend to ewer feed this camera with fresh film. (Lightmeter and spring seem to be in working order though.) My interest is to bring the images taken by the previous owner from latent to watchable image.
Just gave a sniplet of film a bath in fixer. It does not clear up but gets brown. Does it mean it is no bw film?
It’s amazing how good some 8mm cameras look, I have a Bolex 8mm camera with prime lenses and it looks better any super 8 camera I have used in sharpness and color reproduction
My camera is almost exactly the same as this except there is no focusing on the lens. So I guess it is fixed focus?
Fixed focus lenses - quite common. - Mike
The light meter may work, but the needle may be stuck. I solved the problem with contact cleaner and a flashlight to push the needle back to life
Hey! I'm not sure if mine doesn't work or if it's stuck. How'd you fix yours? Do I need to open the front of the camera? I just inherited mine
@@gabocg24 it has been a while, but yes, I opened the front and gently sprayed Deoxit near the needle pivot. (Very gently). Then I put a flashlight in front of the light meter on and off. By doing that the needle started to move. So I sprayed a little more Deoxit and continued to "stimulate" the meter sensor with the flashlight. Eventually the light meter regained its full range. Now it works perfectly. No need to disassemble anything. It's just enough to open the front so that you can reach inside whith the Deoxit straw. Be careful not to actually touch the meter assembly. It's very delicate.
@@gianlusc great! Thank you so much! I will try that!
@@gabocg24 sure. Let me know how it goes 🙂
@@gianlusc It was stuck, but after unsticking it, I can now confirm the meter doesn't work. It's permanently wide open. It's not too bad, tho, I think I'll use an external meter and ND filters to account for the f1.8 when shooting in a bright environment :) tysm!
Is there any way to repair the electric eye on one of these?
No known repair shops. :(
@@FilmPhotographyProject 🥲
This is after canon left them.. still good cameras, but I prefer my Canon 8-t.
@michaelraso @filmphotographyproject what is the song you played at the end of this? I love it!
Joe's Guitar - soundcloud.com/film-photography-project/the-pink-delicates-joes-guitar