Place Dam blocks on the top of the walls where you have the sluices, that way when there is extra water it can just spill over and down the main river. And the sluices will automatically start handling the slow water release when there is no water coming from the source Remember just because you have new toys doesn’t mean old dams are useless, use them to control where overflow spillage goes
Literally what im begging him to understand. And for areas only one block deep, like the main town's river, it would actually work to just have a sluice gate among the dams, because When water us flowing, the water level aftee the sluice gate would be high enough to shut it, but water would still flow over the dams. When drought, water is automatically released by the sluice to maintain the water levels of the lower areas. This is incredibly powerful automation
Yup I have this setup and it works great, I use the down stream flow during temperate for power and then during droughts the sluices keep the river from going dry whilst I still pump water from it.
You didn't put paths on the bridge crossing the pump area so the beavers are still going all the way around. Also my vote for the mountain top district is "That Place Up There" which shall be populated by 'Them beavers Up There'
It's nice to see that they are incorporating mod stuff into the base game. Shows that the developers are paying attention to what the player base enjoys.
59:52 You need a chanel connecting the other source to that exit, so the bad water goes directly there without mixing with the water in the rest of the reservoir.
I have noticed that beavers build order is based 1st on there being materials to deliver to the build project, 2nd the set priority and then 3rd on the order you placed them down (First in First out) so you can mitigate beavers getting stuck by specifically placing the buildings in backwards order(starting at the end of a 1 tile wide channel instead of the entrance). So long as you don't have a large amount of extra builders, they won't get stuck, but its not exactly a guarantee unless you have very, very few builders. If you only have say 2 builders available, then you could place down a line of levees and pretty much guarantee they will not get stuck and build all of them in the correct order if you first place them at the end and then work back to the entrance. This however is not very useful since we almost never will have so few builders, but can be very useful for separate districts as a set it and forget it kind of approach rather than having to remember to go back and 1 by 1 unpause manually as they are built.
I just want to say that I find your videos quite delightful. I’ve recently become engrossed in this game and your videos have taught me much about how it works.
I maintain that the best way to deal with badwater is to just never let it get into your lakes/reservoirs in the first place. On this map, that means dynamite-ing an alternate route into the sides of each water source's' "crater" and using sluices to automate sending good water through the old/current route and badwater out through the new route. All the levees inside your lake could then be removed entirely to increase storage, and the sluices on the back (by the scrap metal) replaced with either dams to ONLY handle the case of too much good water.
When manually operating the sluice gates, I think you need to change to normal speed mode and then let the water out. In turbo mode it seems harder to judge the volume and speed of water being released.
Just wanted to say that the dam going across the lake/upper reservoir (the one you put to sluice gates in towards the end of the video) is totally pointless. It's probably even a tiny disadvantage to have it there, since all it does is to make it take a slightly longer for the badwater to flush out after the Badtide has ended.
21:16 Maybe you should set the sluices between the two reservoirs a bit lower, so even if there is a little more water, it wouldn't be enough to overtop the bottom one.
29:34 If you put at least one sluice gate in each direction, one can be set to open if the contamination rises (so close below % contamination), and the other one set to close above a contamination of %. That way, if the pump reservoir ever gets contaminated, the sluice gates will automatically open towards the bigger reservoir, and because they only let water through in one direction (as far as I'm aware).
as mentioned in the previous episode, the sluice gates are meant to go in the rim of your reservoir. its sloshing this much because you are opening a hole in the bottom of a levee, whilst there is a 4 meter tall stack of water standing behind it. the sluice gate is meant to manage flow out the top of the reservoir, not the bottom. i place them on several levels, so that i can drain my reservoirs 1 or 2 level at a time. and not the whole stack. so i would have a sluice gate on the bottom, then 2 layers of levee, then another layer of sluice gates, another 2 layers of levee. and repeat. if you set all those sluice gates to drain to the same level. then your reservoir will gradually drain, and the sloshing is minimized. even if your reservoir is multiple levels. for instance draining from a 10 levee high reservoir, into a 8 high, into a 6 high, into a 4 high. as long as you set the down stream option of the sluice gates correctly. so in the 10 block high reservoir going into the 8 block high one, you'd want to set all levee's from the 10 high in to the 8 high. to fill downstream until 7.75 then from the 8 high into the 6 high. you want to set the sluices out of the 8 high to deposit to 5.75 downstream into the 6 high. and so on. also the sluice gates, do work like a filter. exactly as you are wishing for in this video. as long as you have them in the top of your reservoir of course. you can have sluice gates on 2 sides of your reservoir, lets call one the clean side that is supplying your colony with water. you can set this clean sides sluice gates, to close automatically as soon as they detect 1% or more of pollution. the set of sluice gates on the other side. can be set to always be closed, unless they detect more then 0% pollution. so then once bad water enters your reservoir, the clean side sluice gates will pop shut as soon as they detect bad water. whilst the other sluice gates that are set to detect bad water and open. and will let out bad water until they stop detecting it.
Build platforms in your reservoirs and then cap the entire reservoir with levies you can then put your water pumps on top of the levees and just remove the single block levee in those platforms under it for Access into your drinkable water areas or leave them capped altogether and put your water pumps in a water pumping area for just pumping water😊 great video keep them coming can't wait until tonight
For this map I have put boxes around the water at the top with 2 sets of gates on to let water into the big pool and there other out the back, so when the bad water comes, I open the gats at the back and the bad water goes down but I also put some power wheels there to get some power to because why not ehehe, it seems to be working for me so far can get a little bit of flooding if I don't set the gats to the correct hight but other than that, works, fine, I do wanna change them to the new gate so the work by themself right now I just got flood gats, so I need to be on the ball closing and opening them,
I've been playing that map too, and have a similar set up (as you did at the beginning of the episode). I have found that .65 allows for that first post sluice area to stay full and have the occasional spill over at that next dam area (like maybe half the water pulse gets to the dam and can spill over). If tightly controlled your way works, as long as you have a spill over somewhere when your reservoir fills up. I personally like dams at the very top to allow spill overs to continue through your main area, but sluices at the bottom to manage when water is low due to drought or bad tide.
interesting series so far. As of a second district name...."Tinsel Town" Beings you are doing most of the manufacturing there and most, if not all the metal will be showing up, sounds about right to me.
In time, it will probably be worth putting in some battery banks coming off the side of the mega dam. That extra height will store tons of energy. Especially if you utilize the overhangs so you can put a bunch side by side.
It might have been a good idea to build your “isolation” dam further back to create a path to the overflow/bad water outlet for the water-source with water wheels. That would give you a bigger reservoir for your water pumps. It’s a project for another time.
Late reply, I know, but my understanding is that to avoid breaking save files or existing power networks, the high power shaft is still in the game but isn't unlockable in the tech tree anymore.
Tap into the power to have gravity batteries dangling off of the face of the dam. More not quite hydroelectric. Name for the new district: Lakewood. There is a lake, there are trees, these are the things important to a beaver.
7:51 Just do away with the one-source badwater diversion project. The other water source will contaminate the reservoir anyways. The water pumps should be moved to the reservoir just downstream.
Hey now that you have overhangs, you can divert the non-secure water source. You just need to grab the water floors and a sluice or two to jump right over the reservoir. Nice.
→ Ah, so the new vertical power shafts are a bit more expensive than the previous mod ones, in that they require planks and gears, not just the two logs. → A way to clean the bad water in your pumping area would be to build a bad water pump there. (Done at 33:53.) → If you want to wait until you got more planks, building a larger plank storage would be a good first step.
I hoped you would build the badwater disposer the way you said in the first or second episode, into the channel, that would look amazing, and you can flush the system!
Just starting the video, but I tried this map myself, and 1 high floodgates at the top of the dam above the sluices set at 0.90 lets the river flow downstream perfectly. My sluices are set at 0.80 and it refills the downstream during droughts and badtides. Using floodgates at 0.90 instead of dams downstream to keep everything nice and high.
They dropped it overnight and I was genuinely confused for a minute, where my regular S shape piece has gone... They made me pay extra technology points to get these, lol.
you could name the new district Mt Catastrophe, given what's been issuing forth periodically from it. and hey just coincidentally, having that power shaft along your dam provides a perfect location for some gravity batteries.
Could you build a cap for the water sources, using levees and sluices, to only open for good water and close for bad water? That way only good water goes into the reservoir and if you want badwater for industry the beavers can schlep it over the hill from the badwater source.
30:53 Water pumps continue to pump water at a rate inverse to contamination level, and bad water pumps are the opposite. If you are maniacally stingy engineer enough, you can use bad water pumps to remove all contamination from the "quarantine tank", then allow water to flow again once contamination % reaches an acceptable amount.
Has anyone told you about the single Oak left in the Chestnut grove? Looking at the front of the Tapper's Shack, 2 to the right. Also, "Industrial Metal Trees" is my submission for the district name.
Is there a reason JC couldn't have built platforms w/ impermeable floors and built a system of levees and sluices to just send the bad water to the side like he planned? Seems like that route would've been faster and less materials than the mega dam ALSO, HUGE DISCOVERY: we can place dynamite directly over paths now without removing them. Gone are the days of having to place dynamite, delete a section of paths, and then place more dynamite
Have the sluice gates close at different levels to control the splashing. Like they are all open when water level is bellow 1.25. bellow 1.5 two are open and between 1.5 and 1.9 just one is open. that way the flow tapers off as the reservoir fills.
Hi JC, wouldn’t it be a good idea to build platforms on the overhangs so that beavers can walk on them and build the shafts above? It’s a bit wasteful but you can get more plank makers and all will be good and fast😊
10:38 💡💡💡💡BETTER IDEA: that upper reservoir is fed from 2 groups of water source blocks .... Make as SMALL as possible of a badwater diversion reservoir/channel & route the bad such that it doesn't contaminate the large upper reservoir ESPECIALLY since a large contaminated reservoir will take AGES to decontaminate ‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️ ( this is only cycle 12 ---> ✴️✴️✴️expect back to back bad seasons in future‼️‼️✴️✴️✴️✴️) ....... Sacrifice about 10 trees per group of sources to avoid contamination of the main reservoir is a small price‼️‼️‼️ as to power let existing wheels be for good water, & build more for bad seasons
The only thing sluices don’t do is direct overflow and even in that case you could just use a dam and sluice combo to direct the extra water because floodgates are kind of too much hassle. I’m already bracing for sluices to be made more expensive before they go to the main branch.
District name idea "The Retreat" they think they're going on a vacay but unfortunately they're going to work their butts off😂😂😂😂 for the good of beaver kind
I tried a stream, but it had too much stuff I didn't care about. Congrats to all the gifted memberships, but that's not what I want to listen to. - That protected area for the pumps is too small for the ig pump unless you want to move the entry over the badwater part or the pump to where yo uwanted to build that badwater pump Although you could just put it on the intermediate reservoir you finsihed this episode and save the pumpers some stairs - you have a ton of logs your haulers could easily move into the piles. Shoudl also include planks if they weren't picked out a long time ago anyway
Hey JC, this all is incredible, but I don't think you saw that there is no way for water to get to where the pumps are, and everywhere where your crops are groing. Be aware!
Place Dam blocks on the top of the walls where you have the sluices, that way when there is extra water it can just spill over and down the main river. And the sluices will automatically start handling the slow water release when there is no water coming from the source
Remember just because you have new toys doesn’t mean old dams are useless, use them to control where overflow spillage goes
That’s only efficient if the maximum height the sluice can be set to before overtopping is less than the height at which the dans overflow.
Literally what im begging him to understand.
And for areas only one block deep, like the main town's river, it would actually work to just have a sluice gate among the dams, because
When water us flowing, the water level aftee the sluice gate would be high enough to shut it, but water would still flow over the dams.
When drought, water is automatically released by the sluice to maintain the water levels of the lower areas.
This is incredibly powerful automation
Yup I have this setup and it works great, I use the down stream flow during temperate for power and then during droughts the sluices keep the river from going dry whilst I still pump water from it.
You didn't put paths on the bridge crossing the pump area so the beavers are still going all the way around. Also my vote for the mountain top district is "That Place Up There" which shall be populated by 'Them beavers Up There'
The new reservoir makes a perfect spot for gravity batteries.
Floodgates can now be adjusted in 0.05 increments
So many experiments I need to re-run with all of the 6 and beyond updates. Greatly appreciated you including the info in your videos.
It's nice to see that they are incorporating mod stuff into the base game. Shows that the developers are paying attention to what the player base enjoys.
59:52
You need a chanel connecting the other source to that exit, so the bad water goes directly there without mixing with the water in the rest of the reservoir.
I have noticed that beavers build order is based 1st on there being materials to deliver to the build project, 2nd the set priority and then 3rd on the order you placed them down (First in First out) so you can mitigate beavers getting stuck by specifically placing the buildings in backwards order(starting at the end of a 1 tile wide channel instead of the entrance). So long as you don't have a large amount of extra builders, they won't get stuck, but its not exactly a guarantee unless you have very, very few builders.
If you only have say 2 builders available, then you could place down a line of levees and pretty much guarantee they will not get stuck and build all of them in the correct order if you first place them at the end and then work back to the entrance. This however is not very useful since we almost never will have so few builders, but can be very useful for separate districts as a set it and forget it kind of approach rather than having to remember to go back and 1 by 1 unpause manually as they are built.
I just want to say that I find your videos quite delightful. I’ve recently become engrossed in this game and your videos have taught me much about how it works.
Thanks for watching!
I maintain that the best way to deal with badwater is to just never let it get into your lakes/reservoirs in the first place. On this map, that means dynamite-ing an alternate route into the sides of each water source's' "crater" and using sluices to automate sending good water through the old/current route and badwater out through the new route. All the levees inside your lake could then be removed entirely to increase storage, and the sluices on the back (by the scrap metal) replaced with either dams to ONLY handle the case of too much good water.
Dams/gates are the best way to get the effect he wants at the back at its location.
Well early on - you can also just build fully around the source and use cheapest blocks to build up a badwater side route to the end of the map.
"Rim of the World" Which is an area in the mountains near my hometown where there are lakes at the top of the mountain range.
When manually operating the sluice gates, I think you need to change to normal speed mode and then let the water out. In turbo mode it seems harder to judge the volume and speed of water being released.
21:58
U could desync the Sluice gates so as to experiment with lower flows to avoid surges.
Just wanted to say that the dam going across the lake/upper reservoir (the one you put to sluice gates in towards the end of the video) is totally pointless. It's probably even a tiny disadvantage to have it there, since all it does is to make it take a slightly longer for the badwater to flush out after the Badtide has ended.
21:16
Maybe you should set the sluices between the two reservoirs a bit lower, so even if there is a little more water, it wouldn't be enough to overtop the bottom one.
35:25, might wanna go to 1x speed to do a "quick" open close
Name suggestion.
Iron Stomps, cause there's metal and trees uptop, or maybe Stomp Hill
29:34 If you put at least one sluice gate in each direction, one can be set to open if the contamination rises (so close below % contamination), and the other one set to close above a contamination of %. That way, if the pump reservoir ever gets contaminated, the sluice gates will automatically open towards the bigger reservoir, and because they only let water through in one direction (as far as I'm aware).
as mentioned in the previous episode, the sluice gates are meant to go in the rim of your reservoir.
its sloshing this much because you are opening a hole in the bottom of a levee, whilst there is a 4 meter tall stack of water standing behind it.
the sluice gate is meant to manage flow out the top of the reservoir, not the bottom.
i place them on several levels, so that i can drain my reservoirs 1 or 2 level at a time. and not the whole stack.
so i would have a sluice gate on the bottom, then 2 layers of levee, then another layer of sluice gates, another 2 layers of levee. and repeat. if you set all those sluice gates to drain to the same level. then your reservoir will gradually drain, and the sloshing is minimized.
even if your reservoir is multiple levels. for instance draining from a 10 levee high reservoir, into a 8 high, into a 6 high, into a 4 high. as long as you set the down stream option of the sluice gates correctly. so in the 10 block high reservoir going into the 8 block high one, you'd want to set all levee's from the 10 high in to the 8 high. to fill downstream until 7.75 then from the 8 high into the 6 high. you want to set the sluices out of the 8 high to deposit to 5.75 downstream into the 6 high. and so on.
also the sluice gates, do work like a filter. exactly as you are wishing for in this video.
as long as you have them in the top of your reservoir of course. you can have sluice gates on 2 sides of your reservoir, lets call one the clean side that is supplying your colony with water. you can set this clean sides sluice gates, to close automatically as soon as they detect 1% or more of pollution. the set of sluice gates on the other side. can be set to always be closed, unless they detect more then 0% pollution.
so then once bad water enters your reservoir, the clean side sluice gates will pop shut as soon as they detect bad water. whilst the other sluice gates that are set to detect bad water and open. and will let out bad water until they stop detecting it.
43:06 the basin that you made w9th the water pumps might need a sluice near the top to fill that resevoir
Build platforms in your reservoirs and then cap the entire reservoir with levies you can then put your water pumps on top of the levees and just remove the single block levee in those platforms under it for Access into your drinkable water areas or leave them capped altogether and put your water pumps in a water pumping area for just pumping water😊 great video keep them coming can't wait until tonight
14:26
If you replace the two dams at the right with sluices, they can use the level of the reservoir with the aquatic crops as reference.
32:18 Prime spot for a frog statue!
Everywhere is a prime spot for a frog statue :)
can't argue with that !
For this map I have put boxes around the water at the top with 2 sets of gates on to let water into the big pool and there other out the back, so when the bad water comes, I open the gats at the back and the bad water goes down but I also put some power wheels there to get some power to because why not ehehe, it seems to be working for me so far can get a little bit of flooding if I don't set the gats to the correct hight but other than that, works, fine, I do wanna change them to the new gate so the work by themself right now I just got flood gats, so I need to be on the ball closing and opening them,
I thought the dam was .65 but I very well could be wrong. I like the idea of using the bad water pump to decontaminate the water, good job!
I've been playing that map too, and have a similar set up (as you did at the beginning of the episode). I have found that .65 allows for that first post sluice area to stay full and have the occasional spill over at that next dam area (like maybe half the water pulse gets to the dam and can spill over). If tightly controlled your way works, as long as you have a spill over somewhere when your reservoir fills up. I personally like dams at the very top to allow spill overs to continue through your main area, but sluices at the bottom to manage when water is low due to drought or bad tide.
is there a reason that you have diverted one source for bad tide but left the other one non diverted? You noticed 59:00
Only so much can get built at one time. We'll get the other one as soon as we can
interesting series so far. As of a second district name...."Tinsel Town" Beings you are doing most of the manufacturing there and most, if not all the metal will be showing up, sounds about right to me.
In time, it will probably be worth putting in some battery banks coming off the side of the mega dam. That extra height will store tons of energy. Especially if you utilize the overhangs so you can put a bunch side by side.
We'll be adding those at some point!
It might have been a good idea to build your “isolation” dam further back to create a path to the overflow/bad water outlet for the water-source with water wheels.
That would give you a bigger reservoir for your water pumps. It’s a project for another time.
28:50 if they've removed the high power shaft, what happens if your beavers try to build the one you've got attached to the water wheel?
Late reply, I know, but my understanding is that to avoid breaking save files or existing power networks, the high power shaft is still in the game but isn't unlockable in the tech tree anymore.
Feral Roomba Hill for the district
😂😂😂😂
Tap into the power to have gravity batteries dangling off of the face of the dam. More not quite hydroelectric. Name for the new district: Lakewood. There is a lake, there are trees, these are the things important to a beaver.
14:30 couldve just replace the 2 dam piece on the side that goes down 2 tiles and achieved the same thing
An update to my "Beavers can now build from bridges"
I just noticed my beavers building stuff from the side of stairs, that's incredible!
I think a great name for the new district could be "Ebbs & Tides" as a pun on ebbs and flows and the changing tides in that area!
7:51 Just do away with the one-source badwater diversion project. The other water source will contaminate the reservoir anyways.
The water pumps should be moved to the reservoir just downstream.
Hey now that you have overhangs, you can divert the non-secure water source. You just need to grab the water floors and a sluice or two to jump right over the reservoir. Nice.
→ Ah, so the new vertical power shafts are a bit more expensive than the previous mod ones, in that they require planks and gears, not just the two logs.
→ A way to clean the bad water in your pumping area would be to build a bad water pump there. (Done at 33:53.)
→ If you want to wait until you got more planks, building a larger plank storage would be a good first step.
Almost time to build one of those plugs on the bad water source and get permanent power, too.
I hoped you would build the badwater disposer the way you said in the first or second episode, into the channel, that would look amazing, and you can flush the system!
Just starting the video, but I tried this map myself, and 1 high floodgates at the top of the dam above the sluices set at 0.90 lets the river flow downstream perfectly. My sluices are set at 0.80 and it refills the downstream during droughts and badtides. Using floodgates at 0.90 instead of dams downstream to keep everything nice and high.
They dropped it overnight and I was genuinely confused for a minute, where my regular S shape piece has gone... They made me pay extra technology points to get these, lol.
I think if you put bad water pumps up on the high revivor that pulls out bad water eventually decreasing the contamination.
you could name the new district Mt Catastrophe, given what's been issuing forth periodically from it.
and hey just coincidentally, having that power shaft along your dam provides a perfect location for some gravity batteries.
Could you build a cap for the water sources, using levees and sluices, to only open for good water and close for bad water? That way only good water goes into the reservoir and if you want badwater for industry the beavers can schlep it over the hill from the badwater source.
30:53 Water pumps continue to pump water at a rate inverse to contamination level, and bad water pumps are the opposite. If you are maniacally stingy engineer enough, you can use bad water pumps to remove all contamination from the "quarantine tank", then allow water to flow again once contamination % reaches an acceptable amount.
40:41 - "All ready getting toward the time we should be wrapping up."
Total video length 1 hour and 3 min
My time perception skills are not world-renowned, to be clear 😂
@@JCTheBeardthe Saskatchewan goodbye lasts about that long. It’s similar to the Minnesota/midwestern goodbye Charlie Bearns did a video about 😂
Has anyone told you about the single Oak left in the Chestnut grove? Looking at the front of the Tapper's Shack, 2 to the right.
Also, "Industrial Metal Trees" is my submission for the district name.
I don't remember anyone bringing that up, no. We'll have to take a look!
Is there a reason JC couldn't have built platforms w/ impermeable floors and built a system of levees and sluices to just send the bad water to the side like he planned? Seems like that route would've been faster and less materials than the mega dam
ALSO, HUGE DISCOVERY: we can place dynamite directly over paths now without removing them. Gone are the days of having to place dynamite, delete a section of paths, and then place more dynamite
A district for metal and a reservoir:
Steel Reserve
It sounds classy, but if you've ever tasted real Steel Reserve, you know it's not haha
Have the sluice gates close at different levels to control the splashing. Like they are all open when water level is bellow 1.25. bellow 1.5 two are open and between 1.5 and 1.9 just one is open. that way the flow tapers off as the reservoir fills.
Hi JC, wouldn’t it be a good idea to build platforms on the overhangs so that beavers can walk on them and build the shafts above? It’s a bit wasteful but you can get more plank makers and all will be good and fast😊
Metallwald.
Translates from German as “Metal Forest”. You know, because it is a district focused on metal and wood. A bit on the nose.
10:38 💡💡💡💡BETTER IDEA: that upper reservoir is fed from 2 groups of water source blocks .... Make as SMALL as possible of a badwater diversion reservoir/channel & route the bad such that it doesn't contaminate the large upper reservoir ESPECIALLY since a large contaminated reservoir will take AGES to decontaminate ‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️ ( this is only cycle 12 ---> ✴️✴️✴️expect back to back bad seasons in future‼️‼️✴️✴️✴️✴️) ....... Sacrifice about 10 trees per group of sources to avoid contamination of the main reservoir is a small price‼️‼️‼️ as to power let existing wheels be for good water, & build more for bad seasons
theres an oak tree growing in your chestnuts 5 up and 1 right from the left
40:00 leave the tanks for a clean water supply
Anyone else notice that the diversion for one source’s bad water is going to block the other source’s Badwater?
Incorporate windmills into the power line, drought proofing the power(somewhat).
It's like you read my mind!
Maybe another builder lodge so you can turn haulers over to building when there's a rush.
When you have your sluices, shouldn't you have them close above 0% contamination?
JC Are you doing anything with the wheat besides growing it?
Badwater pump to help clean out contamination?
OK, I am confused. I am on the experimental version, I have the sluices, but I dont have the vertical power shafts..... any idea why?
🐸!
15:03
If you set them for 0.5m, then you can keep the dams below.
15:36
It seems my comment was unnecessary.
Oakridge Heights is a good name
I can't get my head around on the difference between a sluice and floodgate? Why would you use a floodgate now given you have sluices?
The only thing sluices don’t do is direct overflow and even in that case you could just use a dam and sluice combo to direct the extra water because floodgates are kind of too much hassle. I’m already bracing for sluices to be made more expensive before they go to the main branch.
Thanks again Bro 😊
District name idea "The Retreat" they think they're going on a vacay but unfortunately they're going to work their butts off😂😂😂😂 for the good of beaver kind
I tried a stream, but it had too much stuff I didn't care about. Congrats to all the gifted memberships, but that's not what I want to listen to.
- That protected area for the pumps is too small for the ig pump unless you want to move the entry over the badwater part or the pump to where yo uwanted to build that badwater pump
Although you could just put it on the intermediate reservoir you finsihed this episode and save the pumpers some stairs
- you have a ton of logs your haulers could easily move into the piles. Shoudl also include planks if they weren't picked out a long time ago anyway
Hey JC, this all is incredible, but I don't think you saw that there is no way for water to get to where the pumps are, and everywhere where your crops are groing. Be aware!
hey, any idea when update 6 will leave beta?
Indy Basion for the industry area.
Ahem, Starfish Lake ..
Wells burg because all the water
I hate that the vertical power shafts don't have any sort of tee or corner options
should turn your top pumps back on
"Sluice Industrial park"
I guess I have to restart my game, since Cliffside is where I live IRL.
You made your space for water pumps to small for large pumps
Need more gear storage
I think there is a oak tree sneakily hiding in between all those chestnut trees
57:11
I think it would look better if you don't step it down.
do the discord is onlie for youtube member?
No, anyone is welcome. But the Beard Boosters do have a private channel within it.
New district name: Industrial Heights Lake
Use dams above sluices
new district name "beaverly hills"
Peakness or Verticalia
District name: "Moist Heights"
I submit “star lake” as the new district name. Please remove the one oak tree in the chestnuts and increase the waterlevel by the waterpumps and lido.
Pamela's Nursery
For some reason I don't have that...
Why do people call it a lido (l-ee-do)? It’s as far as I know called a lido (l-eye-do)
American English vs English English I think
Orewood Pond
“Upper district”
Simplicity
Namesuggestion: Beaverton XVII II
metal bear?
for a distric name
science building are 100% viable!! wasn't it 10 an hour?!
Add more hauling post
Maxed out on resources. Doesn't choose to use any of them