I enjoyed the series and your attention to details. I have a model I would like to replicate it is 30" long. Would you consider a commision to buile a mold for me? Thank you
Thank you for your comment. I have considered selling hulls and molds in the future. For now I will concentrate on the Workboat hobby rather than a business. I may do a video on making a mold from an existing hull. That could be interesting. Brian RCWH
I have a question for you and anyone else who can answer my question. I’m building a big , off shore like tub boat, it’s sorta a one off custom. I enlarged the plans by 50%, it is about 50 inches long, 13 inches wide at its widest point, I forget the beam off but I think it’s around 12 inches give it take a few. In all to get her to float properly it has to weight 45-50 pounds. It is a twin motor set up, I plan on running twin 4 blade, 75 mm diameter propellers with a 3 and 1/4 pitch to them (it’s what I could find for what I wanted) I have no idea what size motors to put in it. I’m leaning towards brushed motors. I’m not to worried about the size of them, I can alter the mounts to fit the motor. Do you have any suggestions for what to use or where to start? I’m open to any suggestions or ideas
Thanks AJ, the 540 can motors that I use may be a little underpowered for your 75mm props if you want to push that tug beyond hull speed. DC brushed motors are easy to find and inexpensive so that would be my choice.
@@ajyur9921 You can try a 540 thru a 3:1 GRU. Team Raffee sells planetary Gear Reduction Units. I had a Robbe Norderney 44" that ran twin 600 2.5:1 GRU's and 50mm props. Are you looking for stump.pulling power, scale speed, or both?
@@blkft I’m not to worried about scale speed, I’m looking for something torquey enough that I will not burn up pushing this mammoth and will do decent if there are a couple of waves and/or a current. Thank you for helping me.
Thank you for your interest. We plan on offering pre-built hulls at some point, but we need to grow our channel to a sufficient size and ensure there is enough demand first.
One comment about doing fiberglass layup. Don't touch the inside of the mold with bare hands once you get it waxed and coated with pva. Also don't touch any of the fiberglass with bare hands. Your bare hands have oils on them that will contaminate the part. Just rear gloves through the entire process. I like nitrile gloves. As far as the hair spray goes, it is PVA, so just buy the cheapest brand of unscented hairspray you can. Alternatively you can buy a bottle of PVA and spray it on with a Preval sprayer. The advantage of tearing the mat edges is that you get smoother boundaries between pieces without the double thickness. Yes it is a bit messy, but I think the result is worth it.
Thanks for the tips Todd. I agree 100%. Comments like yours will help a lot of DIY builders, myself included. This is the kind of comment that really makes a DIY video informative. Building the molds and learning to handle a layup is an interesting hobby in itself. Brian RCWH
Na ja , mit Glasfasern arbeiten brauch man entschprechendes Geduld . Mein Respect beim Master .
Mach's gut , Master , viel Erfolg .
Thanks for the video! I like your methodical approach, and your clear explanation too. 👍👍
great info!
It's refreshing to watch a real talented boat builder at work... I've gotten many great ideas from your videos... Thanks a lot Brian...
Great tutorial video
Great information, but where does the mould come from?
I built the mold from a plug made from a hull I designed.
I enjoyed the series and your attention to details. I have a model I would like to replicate it is 30" long. Would you consider a commision to buile a mold for me?
Thank you
Thank you for your comment. I have considered selling hulls and molds in the future. For now I will concentrate on the Workboat hobby rather than a business. I may do a video on making a mold from an existing hull. That could be interesting. Brian RCWH
I have a question for you and anyone else who can answer my question.
I’m building a big , off shore like tub boat, it’s sorta a one off custom. I enlarged the plans by 50%, it is about 50 inches long, 13 inches wide at its widest point, I forget the beam off but I think it’s around 12 inches give it take a few. In all to get her to float properly it has to weight 45-50 pounds.
It is a twin motor set up, I plan on running twin 4 blade, 75 mm diameter propellers with a 3 and 1/4 pitch to them (it’s what I could find for what I wanted)
I have no idea what size motors to put in it. I’m leaning towards brushed motors. I’m not to worried about the size of them, I can alter the mounts to fit the motor. Do you have any suggestions for what to use or where to start? I’m open to any suggestions or ideas
Thanks AJ, the 540 can motors that I use may be a little underpowered for your 75mm props if you want to push that tug beyond hull speed. DC brushed motors are easy to find and inexpensive so that would be my choice.
@@RCWorkboatHaven thank you, I will start to look around. Thank you
@@ajyur9921 You can try a 540 thru a 3:1 GRU. Team Raffee sells planetary Gear Reduction Units.
I had a Robbe Norderney 44" that ran twin 600 2.5:1 GRU's and 50mm props.
Are you looking for stump.pulling power, scale speed, or both?
@@blkft I’m not to worried about scale speed, I’m looking for something torquey enough that I will not burn up pushing this mammoth and will do decent if there are a couple of waves and/or a current.
Thank you for helping me.
@@ajyur9921Also, Google: Matthews Model Marine - All Geared Up.
Good article to read but also it includes Raboesch's prop/rpm chart.
Great video Sir, Are you In Buisness to Build Hull By Order Very Enterested In This Design Wonderful video Frankie Day models
Thank you for your interest. We plan on offering pre-built hulls at some point, but we need to grow our channel to a sufficient size and ensure there is enough demand first.
Ist es möglich so einen Rumpf mit den Plänen der Aufbauten zu erwerben?
One comment about doing fiberglass layup. Don't touch the inside of the mold with bare hands once you get it waxed and coated with pva. Also don't touch any of the fiberglass with bare hands. Your bare hands have oils on them that will contaminate the part. Just rear gloves through the entire process. I like nitrile gloves.
As far as the hair spray goes, it is PVA, so just buy the cheapest brand of unscented hairspray you can. Alternatively you can buy a bottle of PVA and spray it on with a Preval sprayer.
The advantage of tearing the mat edges is that you get smoother boundaries between pieces without the double thickness. Yes it is a bit messy, but I think the result is worth it.
Thanks for the tips Todd. I agree 100%. Comments like yours will help a lot of DIY builders, myself included. This is the kind of comment that really makes a DIY video informative. Building the molds and learning to handle a layup is an interesting hobby in itself. Brian RCWH