Induction Heater from scratch home made
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Tired of using a torch so I finally made this for myself. This is the 3rd unit I made but the 1st manual type. I chose this design because it seemed easy to control resonance and output power. And as well it appears to be very well overbuilt and rugged. I have run it 4 hours without over heating. I just hope those IGBTs do not fail anytime soon.
That's a work of art. Nice job!
Thanks. You should see the ones that people actually paid me to build. I'm just too cheap for myself. Being poor helps me be that way.
DUDE thats awesome! everything is so neat. good job.
That's some really old-school stuff there, dude. All newer designs use a flux capacitor with a value of 10 farads at 13.2kV. :)
Loved the video! Projects of that scale and caliber take a lot of dedication.
samiches2008 Old school lasts longer. Especially when it comes to these kind of things. I could not get a cheap flux cap so I went with what I salvaged out of some old milspec junk. lol. No really. This project was my 3rd one and it was for myself. The others I designed from ground up used modular parts that are easy to stick together. Coil size and TX attributes set by me for specific uses.
Melting Aluminium the other day I forgot to release water coolant valves and I ran the unit 30 minutes on a graphite crucible. I was curious as to note that the power transfer was significantly increased, my copper coil was smoking, (never saw that before) and it I was so involved in melting that I did not make the connection until molten solder started to jet out of my coil. CRAP!
I immediately engaged the water valve and the unit choked and sputtered but functioned ok. Running the water drops some of the power transfer. In my research when I made this type of unit I almost decided to use a coolant designed for high frequency instead. A welding product for TIG welding. But on the cheap side I went with distilled water instead. I believe using the other product would allow for higher power. I can only assume that there is some loss in the water at the frequencies my unit runs. Or possible a heated coil, increasing resistance, somehow allows more power to tank. Could just be a characteristic of my unit or maybe others have had the same results.
Other units I have made went without cooling with mosfets. Duty cycle was like 10%, unlike mine which is 100% so far.
+hotbikerguywithscar Surely it's just the water pulling the heat out of the crucible via the work coil's close proximity. The water itself should never be exposed to the RF field because of skin effect, the current does not penetrate very deep into the copper so it should not interact with the water inside.
That might had accounted for some of the power drain. But honestly, running distilled water as a coolant causes a bit of power loss to the work object. It is very obvious. I have some tig coolant I might try in the future. But you have to be careful here. Improper coolant will seriously clog up the work coil internally via electro chem reaction. Distilled water is safest bet so far for me.
Maybe the change in resistance due to the heat of the coil (and the lack of water) made its resonant frequency change slightly. I mean, the temperature coefficient of copper isn't THAT high, but we're talking about a change in temp on the order of 100ºC.
I think that had more to do with it. But with out doing a proper test I can not say that it is mainly that.
I got a question on a drive circuit for a IGBT. I’d like to know if you can recommend a list of drive components for two FUJI 2MBI300N-060 in parallel . Id like to build a induction heater like the one you built back in the day. It’s going to be a slow process in piecing it together. I just need some recommendations on drive and tank components. I can send you a hundred bucks for your time. Thanks, Norm
wow this is one mean industrial apparatus!!! The village blacksmith might like one of these :)
how much power the heater has?
it is not seem to be over 3 kw( your huge setup)
the disadvantage of your topology is that is consums huge current in non load, beacause of invers relation with load and lower power for heavy loads
Can you say something about this HF litz transformer you made? Have you performed any calculations? Do you have any documents, pdf that may help me design one for certain frequency and power? What's the core material? What's price for single core in your region? I'm about to make my own indheater sometime soon. Your project looks impressive, especially the housing that reminds me of professional inverters fabricated by some american company that I used to seen in some factories
Hi. Did you make your heater? If you need info please feel free to email me. I dont recall offhand the type of core. I bought 10 at once for about 80 bucks. Has to be specific. I made litz from large spool of enamel wire. I would have made it with more strands but i ran out. Still, it works fine. Does not get too hot.
LOVE IT! do you happen to have a source/parts list? I wanted to build this from scrapped electronics because I’m too cheap to buy it for hobby crafting!
Great Job!
in the comments somewhere on here I talk about the build. when I built this unit I literally did by the fly. I do not recommend doing that unless you can cool such a machine with a real industrial grade cooling machine. I never needed one until I took my unit outside for 4 hours in 106 degree day. Blew some expensive parts. with high power, cooling is critical. It's getting cheaper to just purchase made units today... thank you china,
Is that tank capacitor designed specifically for induction heaters?
douro20 I think your asking about the wire-wound low induction capacitor. As far as smoothing the ac ripple of this type of unit it is not that crucial. What happens when you add sensitive switching circuits, spikes in line voltages can cause issues. When I initially built this, (my own personal unit), I designed switching and use to be more specific to melting with a crucible. That is why it is designed with adjustable power by changing resonance. This way I can leave it on, tune heating to a certain level and then forget about it. I then just come back and check the melt to see of it is ready. PLL systems lock in resonance and then power is adjusted by mains or some power factor inverter. Really better suited for instantly turning a piece of steel to curie orange. And if your doing mostly just that then why not. Since I use this as mostly a melter in a crucible, pure DC gives me a bit more stable power out and I want to ramp up power slowly so expensive crucibles don't break from being heated to fast.
That wire wound cap is super robust. Very expensive and 600volt rating. (a lucky junk box find!) Best of all it has good insulation and strong mounting lugs that allowed me to bolt on flat bar and load it with the other capacitors I already had. The only other benefit that is might give here is that it is the last cap before the IGBTs. It inherently cuts down a bit on ringing feedback, which is not that big of a problem.
So in a simpleton nutshell, it is not needed at all, but does add to what I do with it. And I used it mostly because it was easy an easy mount platform.
One thing I wish I would had done different is the mains rectifiers. Although what I am using is considered more than adequate, 60 amp schottky bridge diodes, 100 amp would had been better. Inrush current is the killer here and, just like a welder, they have a life. The longer I do not have to mess with repair, the better.
Great work. Can you Please help me build one? I have a project that needs some stainless cast. My propane furnace just will not do the job .As I am sure you did as I am looking all over the net for schematics and or instructions. Trying to get an idea how it all goes together. Waiting your reply.
I am not sure what you are asking exactly. Help you build one? I think you mean help you understand how it all works so you can understand how to build one...right?
If you want to fit the plane ticket and put me up for a month I will show up and "help you build one". LOL!
Ok, what is it then you need help with? Start with that. And then I will see what I can do for you.
What would happen if you touched the copper with the bar you're holding?
+Random guy with a tractor probably not much. You can get RF burns if you touch flesh between the coils. Happened to me a few times. It's not that big of a deal buy I am the kind of guy who can drive a nail through a finger, pull it out, wrap it up and keep working.
Touching the coil with a steel bar is almost nothing. It slightly changes the inductance of the coil and you will hear the oscillating noise change a bit so when you do it you will be aware of it.
Wrapped coils are better. I just did not have the proper silicon protective skin for the copper coil.
AWESOME!!! How can I make one ? from where should I start ?
+Nima Sarlak First thing you want to do is find out what it is exactly you want to do. That is, what are you going to do with the heater? Do you want to bend steel? Melt copper? Do it all? This is important because there are different types of induction heaters. Some are good for one thing more than another. But they all do the same thing. So what is the main purpose? For me it was a hobby machine that I could modify to do more than one thing with. Honestly, I wish sometimes I had a machine just for melting and a machine just for steel work. But space is important and I really don't have enough room for all the machines I'd like to play with.
Everything you want to add to a machine is going to cost you more money. So think about how much your going to budget for such a machine. Yes, it is important. The IGBTs I use cost $250 plus per piece if you buy them new from major US supplier. You can get them used if you know how to look for them. but it can be a gamble. You can salvage them as well from inverters that are hard for me to find in my area.
You got to start thinking like this. Otherwise your going to be scattered about in ideas.
I just saw this! This is pretty awesome! How much aluminum can you melt in a day now?
Ive never just melted aluminum all day but I could probably melt a 5 gallon bucket in a day total. I should make a vid on the lost foam pours with some of the parts I have made.
Just in case you do not know, this machine is not a volume melter. It is more of a do all hobby machine that can go the distance.
So a curious question 1) Is your 240 mains, 3 phase? - if so, i have 400V 3phase as mains.. could that be used?. 2) if not using mains, could the bridge be powered off say a 150A DC stick welder instead, that runs 400V 16A mains.
Moronicsmurf Answer 1) It is single phase 240, once rectified its 300v dc. Yes you can use your 400v 3 phase, just be sure to use a good rated 3 phase bridge. Of course all your components will have to be rated for rectified 400v AC. (IGBT/Mosfet/capacitor-should be rated for at least double your Rectified DC voltage. I prefer triple).
2) You could use your stick welder but the voltage will be less. Although you are basically getting more current by using the stick welder, ( because it is a voltage to current converter), you lose voltage, (potential), and it would probably be less power to your work coil in the end due to switching power not being able to handle the current as well as it will the voltage.
You can math this out but in the end it is more of a visual answer. Think of it this way. For example a mosfet might be rated for 75 amps at 600 volts. Looks great on paper and in the mind of a newb. But it is kind of BS. That is because there is no way the little leads coming out of the mosfet could dream of even carrying 20 amps at 50 volts for any real work.
In the induction heater using a good solid large IGBT, carries more current and the actual connections are beefier to reflect just that use. You can hook 30 amp rated wire to them and push those 30 amps. But, (depending on device), inside is not so beefy sometimes, and you push too much current through small wire it gets hot. Hot is really bad in any switching device. In fact, a 75 amp rated mosfet could not switch 75 amps when it is warm. And when its hot might only switch 40% of its rating.
Just like your welder your taking 400v 16 amps from the plug and converting it to like 24-50 volts @ 160 amps, give or take. So like your welder it is better to have the voltage higher and current less because the way the inverter switches and supplies power to the work coil in induction heater. The IGBT/ mosfets inverter in induction heater is different in that it switches high voltage at the resonant frequency of the work coil causing it to "ring" up in amps/ current close to the rectified dc voltage. In this way the switching of the IGBT/mosfets is using voltage to "swing" up the amps. They are only capable of switching tens of amps but the work coil will "ring" into the hundreds of amp, and it can take it because it is a thick copper tube being water cooled.
I hope this gives you some kind of better idea.
hotbikerguywithscar yeah.. i just realized i have no idea what im getting myself into.. and i need a parts list, schematics and a written "howto not fuck up your heart while building this".. So basicly anyway, i should try to be content with my 240V 16A, or just take out a 240V, 25A wall connector as well (might even have it without thinking clearly)
I started to conjour up some parts from ebay, but the tutorial i read, (30kVA induction heater) on Instructables, isnt that clear for n00bs like me. Sadly.. maybe its a good thing tho :D
Moronicsmurf You really should try the ZVS induction heater that uses the irf250 mosfets. The parts are cheap and not really hard to stick together. You can build it sloppy like some guys do just to play with it. you power it with 24-35 volts DC @ 20 amps. It self adjusts so it really does not turn on hard until you stick some metal in it. It takes longer to heat thicker metal with this "toy" but it has some uses. Lots of videos on these easy to build heaters here on youtube.
I even have one around for playing with. It's good for a few things and short use. You don't even have to water cool it unless it is constantly on.
Once you get an idea of the workings of it you can look into the other types of heaters out there. There exists many designs for specific uses. I really like designs that use stepped up voltage and power factor control. Basically, if you had 240 VAC @ 30 amps from the wall, you can take the 240 ac from the wall and double it, then rectify it. You increase the voltage and lose current but that is ok. You would be switching 600vdc plus with around 15 amps. Something a little mosfet can do well.
One last thing, you have to ask yourself why you would want to build the type of induction heater you see in my video. It is what is called a manual type. Lot of people hate them because you have to constantly adjust the resonant frequency all the time. A PLL heater locks on to resonant frequency and maintains it there during the heating of the metal. Which, as it heats, changes the parameters of the operating frequency, but since it's "locked" it will push max power into the metal all the time, keeping resonance at it's strongest. Problem here is that you have to somehow adjust power into the tank if you want any adjustments to power out. I've seen peoples units using a large VARIAC to do just that, as well as sometimes implementing the same techniques used in switch mode power supplies to efficiently adjust power out.
Ah yeah i bought a small cheap ZVS heater from china, but well i didnt build it so i guess thats the thing then i need to build it myself and figure out what makes it tick.
My end goal is smelting metals, specifily powdered metals for making crucible steels that goes into knife making. So i need a way of heating materials with a somewhat of control and the PLL heater sounds like a better solution then.
Why im looking at this design is because its available and documented (somewhat). I found a different design on instructables as well that uses an arduino and a PLL IC to the resonance locking and all that as well. But it is as cryptic to me so. ;D
It's really not that hard to understand. If I had 30 minutes alone with you and a whiteboard I could get you to a place where nothing about it would be cryptic.
Do you think it is possible to change an induction cooktop from 220V to 110V?
Im sure it is. But might be more work than worth. Cooktop probably uses SMPS that might even be universal to 110 v at 60 hz. Power to the IGBTs is where you would then have to check.
super
that settles it. I'll just buy one
Hi i am building this at the moment how did you go with the gate drive transformer.
Lets Just Build It That part for this particular design was a bit iffy to make like I wanted. Full bridge gate drive must be made with the right stuff and checked on O-scope under the conditions it will run under. That is, if you want absolute flawless operation. I finally got it operational at the frequencies/ efficiencies I wanted. Took a bit of trial and error.
hotbikerguywithscar Thanks for you advice on this. I have managed to get a nice square wave off the output of the UCC37322 amplifiers at the required 15 volts. The circuit dawg shows on his instructables (www.instructables.com/id/30-kVA-Induction-Heater/) is different from the artwork he provided. Anyway i have got that part working with an arduino as my oscillator at 63khz i just was wondering what shape the waveform needs to be before it goes into IGBT'S i have been posting on the instrutables for the 30kva one Dawg designed and have included photos of the waveform after it leaves the UCC37322 amplifiers before it goes into toroid then the MOSFETS. I also posted a photo of the waveform after it comes out of the MOSFET amplifier stage before it is meant to go into the second toroid the IGBT's. Just wondering if you think it looks ok or am i missing something :) Thanks again so much for you reply
Lets Just Build It I think your asking about the waveform after the UCC37322. IF I remember correctly, the square wave should transfer through the toroid fairly intact. That is the point of getting the toroid core and windings correct. Many incorrect types will distort the wave. You have to select a toroid with the proper ratings in your operating frequency in order to pass the signal. Dont try to "hope" for one out of the junk box. Better to buy them. There is always a little bit of ringing in the end of the square wave and you need to make this as small as possible. 63Khz seems like an ok range but it is a bit high. IGBTs tend to like ranges below 50khz, generally. (Mosfets high voltage, high frequency-IGBT high current low frequency, generally).
The square wave is switching so think of on/off in mseconds. If for some reason your signal causes the IGBTs to switch slowly, leaving you with a condition where both are on they will short and possibly blow.
I may be incorrect about the signal after the "first" toroid needing to be super clean. But after the power transistors to the second toroid and then to the IGBTs its clean square. Hope that helps.
There are a few webpages out there that mull over this very thing in depth. I can't recall any of them at the moment, just search. If your really in a bind over this, I will try to dig up my notes. At any rate, I'd love to see your working unit so please let me know when you if you get it running.
hotbikerguywithscar Thanks for your reply i have now got a reasonable square wave coming out of the mosfets. The lines coming out of the toroids are also giving me a nice square wave. I have installed the two IGBT's on a block of aluminum and screwed fins onto it as well as a fan. I also welded the copper pipe to the giant capacitor before the coil. I have also wound the final transformer the big one and i put 3 taps in it like int Dawgs picture. I am now trying to figure out how to connect it to the power as the breakers at the hardware shop are only 63amps. Not sure where to get access to 3 phase power. As per your suggestion i will lower the frequency to about 50hz. :) thanks for replying i will post some photos on the instructable so you can see what i have made
Lets Just Build It You don't need 3 phase power unless you are pushing your heating to some extreme level. Yeah it's nice to have more power. Always is :). But why do you need it? What in the heck are you doing with your heater? Melting can be achieved with proper crucible and isolation with 240AC.
I run mine with 240 at 30 amps max and almost never need to pull 20 amps for melting. With proper coil I can insta-turn steel so hot that it breaks apart. A very undesirable effect.
I do wish sometimes I could run a bigger coil into bigger steel, like 3 inch flat bar, and have it heat fast. That is my threshold with what I have. Yeah, I could push it, but life of use would start to fall off much faster. I plan on my unit to outlive me.
If your melting steel it's more important to have a well built isolation to your crucible. Like building the coils into some kind of pouring crucible. I only melted iron once this way and it is a bit scary for me in a garage. And besides, if you are melting, you want to heat up slow. Otherwise you have to buy a nice supply of crucible because overheating once causes them to die fast. At 50$ a shot I can't do that too many times before I would curse the thing and break it apart, build a gas furnace.
And 63 amps? I think that is plenty. You could even rectify 120ac from the wall at 15 amps and use this thing for all kinds of stuff.
what is it your doing?
How much electricity does it take in (kWh)???
kWh? does not cost much to run. Better thought in kw. Or even better, amps, since it does not run at the same power all the time. It will pull all 30 amps from the 230VAC wall for short times. (Never tried it for long because I do not want to replace the IGBTs anytime soon.) And the pump and other power supplies run of another separate 120AC line drawing maybe 1.5 amps from the wall.
So to answer your question as best I can: pulls in amps from the AC lines, 1-30 during its operation. You do the math.
tanks :) 30 amps , it is not cheap. Thinking about water heater for home.
7.62x39
Your thinking about it in terms of constant use. In that case kWh is a concern. That does not apply here so much. When I melt metal it does but I only melt a small crucible at a time. Larger melting operations exist along the 100 pound melt size and take a lot of power for short times. (Still cheaper than gas since you heat from cold in these cases).
I have seen homemade water heaters on the small scale using bent tubes in the coils. Instant boiling on demand. I think you could make a small system out of the circuit I made in this way. Heating a small tank could be done, but in the end you have a sophisticated water heater when you could have just stuck in a heating element to do the work. Sure, that would be less energy efficient but simpler.
But if you needed absolute isolation for some reason...
what is the best resonance freq. to use ?
+engineprof depends. what are you trying to do?
+engineprof Ryan cook answers it well. It depends on what you are trying to do. My unit operates from 25khz to 75khz. It could probably go higher. You can think of it like this, any induction heater will heat a piece of metal. Even small ZVS heater running at 30 volts dc will heat metal the same size as a large unit will. Question is how fast and how big can you go. Different freq. will heat different metals, differently. If your melting, like I am, in a quart size graphite crucible, you don't want to heat too fast. Trust me!
hotbikerguywithscar why? does the crucible deteriorate?
+Ryan Cook First of all, pure graphite crucibles have a melt life. Every time you use it a bit of the surface areas oxidize and burn. This rate increases with how hot you get it. To slow this process down you can contain a crucible in ceramic as often pure graphite crucibles are. Proper storage and heating also prolong life. Slow heating, or curing, also important.
Second, its very easy to overheat a graphite crucible in an induction heater. The first one I had got white hot then started burning. I could throw in a 1/2 inch chunk of copper and it almost instantly turned into liquid. That was bad and it killed that crucible.
And heating an uncured crucible shortens life. Especially of done too fast. That is one thing I think a gas furnace has an advantage in. Your crucible is in the fire from the start and heats accordingly, unlike an induction heater which can turn it instant orange. Crack!
hotbikerguywithscar This makes me wonder if you could dope the graphite at an industrial level to be resistive, thereby being able to be heated.
its a good build but way overkill
how much power the heater has?
it is not seem to be over 3 kw( your huge setup)
the disadvantage of your topology is that is consums huge current in non load, beacause of invers relation with load and lower power for heavy loads
+Mojtaba shafigh aski As stated in various comments on here the unit I made runs at 240 ac up to 30 amps. What it actually can do is around 3kw. But I do not have access to any more power as of yet. It runs in the garage hooked up to the dryer outlet.
And, also stated on here, the unit is made primarily to melt with a crucible. Non load means nothing in this case since it is always loaded. And even when it is not loaded, resonance is out of phase so much that it does not draw much power. Of course, turning it on while in resonance would draw huge amounts of current. But if you do that it turns off via the protection circuits I built into it. And yes, its huge. I wanted to make something more on par with industrial use, "plug and play anywhere", without having to set up lines and cooling. Radiator air cool and water take up over half the machine. As in if you purchase the cheap chinese units that seem small and come with no cooling unit, you will have to add the cooling unit to it anyway, thus you end up with something bigger. And I could had done it like many people do who make their own units, use a bucket of ice water or hook up the water line to a faucet and let it run continually... but I don't have to do that. Besides water is .25 cents a gallon and ice is 1.50 us dollars a bag. I'm still using the same distilled water I began with over a year ago without any funky mold.
Yes it's big, but it' not some proto-type toy that never gets put into real service either.
+hotbikerguywithscar
another dsadvantage of this topolgy(serios resonant or any circuit like lclr circuit )is when you put a heavy load( like a bige pice of iron ) in your heater the Q level of your tank circuit decreases drasticaly!!! and it is possible to loosing the pll lock anyway there are some toplogies that has linear relationship with load level and have so big Q level that makes the inverter current Sinusoidal for very wide range of loads beside you dont have to protect your heater from non load
+Mojtaba shafigh aski Thanks. I am aware of the advantages and disadvantages of different types of induction heaters. And your right in that if this kind of induction heater is loaded with a "big" piece of metal that Q goes south. I have constructed other types of heaters and very much like the PLL high Q topology. Just one thing about them I did not personally like was the noise. The high pitched whine got to me. If you have discovered an induction heater that locks Q at all resonance and makes no noise please let me know.
BTW I have heated 3 inch round stock in mine and it did the job just fine. I guess if I move up to heating railroad ties I will have to build something better.
+hotbikerguywithscar
good if you have tried any other toplogies then maybe you wanna try serios_parallel resonant topology the benefit of this topology is that use 2 step filter to attenuate the other harmunics and inherntly has higher Q level than serios resonant only beside has linear load factor
+hotbikerguywithscar
I will make a video from this idea
Hello,
I wish to build an induction heater and I already have most of the parts. I have : 1 X CM300DU-24F with snubber cap ; 6 x SKM100gb123d ; 6 x 2.0 uF 1000V aerovox capacitors ; 5 rectification bridges ; many big electrolitic capacitors ; contactors ; switches ; BIG aluminium radiator and others various items.
If you would of had these components what you would use: one CM300DU-24F or 2 X SKM100gb123d ? My mains power is 220V monophase. I ve saved a lot of plans on my computer but none with similar components. I don t have much electronic knowledge but I trully want to make this happen. I ve made a short video with my components and you can see the tags on all of them. Maybe you can help me decide which design to use or any advice will help hugely. Thanks
How to design work coil any suggestion pls?
Very impressive build! Thank you for sharing your design and for all of the info in the comments. I'm still at the stage of learning what it is that I would need to learn to design something like this. Sounds like it's a good idea to start small and build experience and knowledge by copying one of the higher voltage mosfet designs (like Royer oscillator) before trying something like yours. Your build is inspiring and intimidating/humbling.
Thank you. Thing is a tank. Cooling system is just adequate. The failsafes i put in the circuitry work, but when its your own stuff you push it too hard. Works fine in winter, borderline in 100 plus degree summer.
Sometimes i think a 5 gallon bucket with 3 bags of ice would had been safer. Just not plug and play. I would suggest to anyone who builds there own to consider large cooling unit.
Absolutely incredible! !!!
i want melt aluminium, what is the best resonance frequentie to use,,,small chips of metal i want melt for casting
+Алмазова Анна Sir, my heater heats a crucible that in turn heats the aluminium. It is a usually less than a pound. Your question is vague. If you want to melt aluminum in free space under nothing but pure induction heater power your answer easy found, but i don't know it off hand.
I can tell you that heating a 1 pound crucible is done very nicely under 25khz- 35khz in the crucible. I would find melting any metal in free space without use of crucible of no reason. That being said I have melt in clay pot but requires heating very slow or the ceramic pot breaks. For that reason I rarely do it, except for brass. I hope that helps your direction.
First, thanks so mutch to take the time to answer all the folks here, I just build myself a similar Machine . Im now only at 2kw and wating for new component to arrive to upgrade to (hopefully) 10kw . I can heat a 4 in steel bolt to red hot . but Cant get a graphite crucible to be even warm . My target is to melt aluminum, brass and copper. Do I need more Power , or another crucible ? my crucible www.banggood.com/1kg-88x58x47mm-Graphite-Crucible-Cup-for-Gold-Silver-Metal-Melting-p-1112545.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Hello acualy i want to build induction heatet for 4-5 kw power to heat material upto 400-500 degree C....
Material of 0.014 m3 volume.. Meatal balls iron, aluminun and its oxide.
Can u please suggest circuit and components with safety
Much info is in the comments. I can not suggest design without knowing your intended purpose.
lmao
I would like to melt nickel. Would your machine accomplish that?
family lola well, I've purchased a few old nickels in it and the turned into liquid in a few seconds. I've never tried nickel itself. the fumes are probably toxic. I don't see why you could not use a small crucible and melt it. Graphite gets so hot it turns white and burns. never measured temp though.
great job can you share the sceme to me
Arief Triwahyudi The sceme for manual type induction heater are several on the internet. Designing a circuit for what you want to use it for should be thought about. As far as the sceme for the circuits I designed on my own unit are not needed since mine are control and timing for specific use and safety. This is also not cheaper way to go for induction heater. In making your first one you should use high voltage mosfet design. Cheaper and smaller, easy to apply PLL.
Very nice and very professional, good work hotbikerguy.
+AtoZ O Why thank you very much... you should see my extremely overbuilt linear power supply.
@@hotbikerguywithscar Would love to see your extremely overbuilt linear power supply. Please make a video. I am making an extremely overbuilt linear power supply too, but have no one to copy. All MOT arrays use foreign 220V rated transformers. In the states MOTs are only 110v rated and apparentl not as versatile. Did you use 110V rated MOTs?