Folks read the directions that come with the planks do what it says All these different companies have different locking systems you will benefit in the long run
This is experience right here. It took me a few months of doing floors everyday to pick that technique up. Probably helped my boss was SCREAMING to get it done 😂
I did a similar way by connecting the row side by side then connecting the tongue into the groove of all pieces like one long piece. much easier, much faster. Great content btw!!
Exactly what I was thinking too. A rubber mallet is perfect for this. In my opinion if it’s still raised up like that it’s actually not fully 100% locked and that’s where hammering comes in to secure it
As a professional floor and tile installer for the last two years, this is the only way I was shown. The only other tip I have is when u do engage that end joint, start as close as you can to the side joint of the board it’s about to click into. That way there’s less chance of breaking the locking mechanism and quicker/easier to get the plank together. 🤙👍
A home depot employee told me I didn't need to glue the planks down, they were rubber and bendable they felt heavy and good, I cant believe you can set a heavy bed on them and they wont come up
Until you accidentally kick a board loose and now have to undo the last few boards you placed to fix it lol, don't even walk on it too much for the first day, let it rest into place
@@Torpax_no, I’ve laid flooring for about 25 years and every company has you lay while on the product, most of the professional tools are made for being on the plank as you tap them in
yep, been doing short edge then long edge for quite some time. I will say, that ya always wanna do a final tap on your planks if possible. Sometimes we think they are clicked in, but if they ain't, you will get gaps between the planks with expansion and contraction, and movement across the plank in time to come.
I bet you didnt figure that out as quick as he did on your first day, give people a break man, companies and installers "us" are killing them with our prices due to "inflation" when its actually a hustle rather then a trade in sense of just installation. Prep is prep but thats a diff story
Been doing flooring for almost 10 years and it amazes me that people don’t figure this out. And for all the people that will say it doesn’t fill seat itself that way just give it a couple taps and your done. This way is a lot faster.
“Faster” is subjective. I’m willing to bet I could give the OP a 2 hour headstart and still lay the same square footage of flooring faster than him. Technique is only half of the equation. 90% of DIYers are gonna end up losing an hour as soon as they need to do some sort of mitered or beveled cut around something because they don’t know how to mark out efficiently. It don’t matter which way you “catch” the board as long as you flush it up and hammer it to seal. Run your hand across the seam as you tap and you’ll feel it close. I’m not a flooring guy, I’m just not retarded and I’ve been in construction for 20+ years
The hammering is important to make sure you get a strong seal. If you have a waterproof board the hammering allows the underlayment to seal the boards together. Is doing it by hand without a hammer worth finding out one day your subfloor rotted from spilled juice because you didn't want to take the extra step to make sure it was wayerproof?
Not true. You push the plank in until you hear or fill it lock. You don't have to hammer it. If you have to, then you are doing it wrong. I've been installing this flooring for a while with no hammering and never a call back for that. It's only if it doesn't lock. You are damaging the ends. Or your tile is cheap.
He's saying not to hit the other end in, you do hammer the seam down on this type of flooring but the kind I'm using right now you have to do it the way he's showing or it will snap the tongue
I'm a professional floor installer and you do not need to hammer. You just listen for the click. This floor does NOT need to hammered on the seam. The way he does it is the way to truly do it
I just found that same trick yesterday. No tools need, quick and easy. Just lining it up correctly at an angle and shaking as you push in on the join. If it goes in correctly, the plank will lay flat.
I just pulled up and replaced a bunch today in a room with very little right angles, I hammered the ever living snot out of those planks to get everything to fit. But it worked. It wasn't easy and I hated every second of it, but it looks nice now that it's done.
I used to be a flooring installer before I was injured. If you have a friend or helper you can build one full row connecting the butt edges then you and help get on new side of floor grab whole row lift it and click it on to the next full row 👍👊
Exactly. I see people arguing about it but youre the only one whos mentioned theres 2 types of locking systems for this floor. Hes using the kind you dont need to hammer on the seam
There’s a difference between “need” and proper pride in your work. Does an electrician “need” to put all the outlet cover plate screws at 12-6? No but basically every single one does because it looks cleaner. You hammer the floor to seal gaps. Especially as an idiot DIYer who doesn’t understand what expansion joints even are or how settling happens. It don’t matter if it’s top or side lock, be an adult give it a few taps to seal and keep moving you lazy crybabies.
Correct I’ve been doing this way but but there are different style locking as the drip lock also cheaper lvp are easier to lock and unlock which is not good so I like the quality ones once u install it and move to the next row less lickly to mess up the current rows
Yep, he’s right, I just did the same planks in a spare bedroom and that was the easiest way because tapping them together from the end has a tendency to leave the under-mating of the plank to show as a seem, it looks terrible that way.
That's the way I install it... except I just installed some that the butts ends do not interlock. Just follow manufacturers instructions (and hope they are clear enough) ;)
Best suggestion is YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH IT BECAUSE THEY ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS OF LOCKING SYSTEMS, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS & IF YOU MUST ASK OR DO YOUR HOMEWORK PLEASE DO, IT WILL DEFINITELY HELP YOU IN THE LONG RUN.
I learned this the hard way. I removed various rows of planks (5 times) because something was always wrong. learning slowly - now room #1 is almost done: then 4 more rooms, some closets and hallways. At the end we should pros. mom and son!
Omg brother, this video is a pain to watch. U posted this video in 2021 and I guarantee u that flooring needs to be swapped out now. First off when installing this flooring u should be on the flooring, opposite of how u were installing it in the video, u will lay it way faster and better. Second you should be tapping it in with that mallet and also ur block to ensure no micro cracks. But all of that should be the least of ur worries cause you’ll be changing that flooring in about give or take 2- 3 years. Why do u ask? Cause u got no moisture barrier. I’ve been changing out flooring that has been laid with no moisture barrier and the flooring is only about 2-3 years old, still new! Countless homes all for the simple reason that they skimped out and didn’t do a moisture barrier. I love it for 2 reasons, 1 tearing out the pretty much new flooring just gives me joy, 2 brings me more work!
Works with the thinner boards, thicker ones doing this will snap the Tongue off the short end if it's plastic. You can tape the join to help keep in place.
You know a lot of concrete that is pulling water after it’s been cured for years?😂. Also most of the LVP boards come with a bit of a backing to them. And you can’t “damage” the floor since it’s plastic. When’s the last time water destroyed the plastic bottle it’s in?
Installer here, try sitting on the other side.... hella more comfortable. Good job figuring it out dude. Plus, not all plank install the same, yours happen to click nice and smooth. Each kind requires a diff way believe it or not, but you seem to have the mindset for it. Give it a try around the house and fuck it, make some money man!
I’ve installed about 6000 sq feet of vinyl plank, I’ve always just lined up the long edge, slide it by hand to meet the short edge, and then tap until locked.
We purchased Shaw flooring from Lowe's on 8/28/2021 as part of a remodel. Not long after the floor was installed (by us), we noticed the floor separating and cracking in various places. The install was straightforward and followed the instructions to the letter. Shaw was contacted about this issue, and a claim was started A third party inspector was sent to our home. We got the claim back, and was denied. Said the floor was separating and cracking due to poor installation. Really? There's only one way to install this floor. We followed the instructions, and nothing was forced. Very disappointed in this company. We spent 2200 dollars on this floor and they don't want to make this right. We're not looking to have the whole floor replaced, just the damaged areas. This floor also has a 30 year warranty. For what? I'f your not going to stand behind your product, then don't offer a warranty. Sounds like they'll use any excuse to get out of helping the customer. We will never buy from this company again. Horrible experience. We spent alot of money, and time to on installing this floor. I guess since they have our money, that's all they care about. So sad. HORRIBLE PRODUCT!!
You don't need a hammer you need a tapping block the only time you should need a hammer is to get typically the board into door jams or around the perimeter
This is because in “general” people’s back muscles are stronger than their chest muscles and you can engage better leverage “pulling” toward you rather than “pushing” away from you. Not to mention your weight sitting on the already laid boards forces them flat and doesn’t allow for them to shift as you seal the new board. Not rocket science, simple physics.
We even put a not even a half cut piece on the joint to make sure when we tap it in after it doesn’t move . But I would still tap the end or both sides just to make sure u get that seal
What I do is put the long edge in first keep it up so it slides easy then slide the corner into the corner of the already laid piece then just let it fall into plane give it a couple taps on the joint and a couple down the length of the plank and she’s in. Always lay the floor so the tongue is the leading edge that way you can just lay the new piece over it not trying to fight it by trying to get the side edge to lock in while trying to fit the tongue. Under the groove.
I love your choice of attire! Great job. Your shirt is awesome and the USA Cover on your grape just gives me joy joy feeling. I also like your advice. Great video Sir, or Mam. Sorry for not knowing, but I don’t want to assume your chosen gender. I have been informed recently at work that doing such can be rude. Please have a great day
This is pretty much how I did my own kitchen, but it definitely doesnt work for all vinyl planks. Some you need to line up thr long edge and hit the short edge with a block and a hammer on the face.
Funny to see people comment on the subfloor blah blah and hammering. I'm a pro been doing all types of floors for a living for 20 years. 1) he doesn't need to hammer if the tongue and Grove systems clicks! It is a terrible plan to use a hammer. No need! 2) he doesn't need an underlayment the floor comes with underlayment attached
The only thing I noticed was the horrible staggers and that thin material should always have plastic or moisture barrier installed before planks are installed
Ain’t no way. I just helped a buddy DIY some LVP and if we locked the short edge first there was no way to get the long edge snapped in. Took us probably 2 hours of fighting with it to figure that out, but once we did the rest of the floor went together in no time.
@@ligyron2835 Whole project took us ~3.5 hours. Id guess it was close to 400sf. Is what it is. Came out mint in the end so that’s all that really matters.
Well i can tell ya right now, you being in front of the boards instead of behind them is the main source of your issues. Also, like others have said in the comments, just follow the manufactures instructions. If youre having a difficult time with it then youre either doing it wrong or your subfloor isnt as flat as you thought. Idc what the orange apron told you at the box store, interlocking floors still need a flat surface to be installed on, the whole “zero prep” is for imperfections in the floor as in if you just ripped out carpet strip you dont need to patch the holes. Ive been an installer for 13 going on 14 years now
Can you sit on the oter side of the lamanite 😂 probables with that tho sometimes other plank comes out. If you do yourself use the drop lamanite. Its seriously easy
Folks read the directions that come with the planks do what it says All these different companies have different locking systems you will benefit in the long run
Directions? I don't need no stinking directions! It's about trial and error. LOL.
@localone Like a man!!! That's how I do it!!!
I'm a professional and I was just about to address the fact that there are varying locking mechanisms.
Yep
some lock in by tapping the smaller end down and others lock in by connecting the smaller end and tapping it in long ways.
Thanks. You just made me 50% more efficient and no more damaged ends.
As soon as you lift up the existing panel, most of the time it disconnects from the groove
Not every click product has the same locking system if your not dealing with these products on the regular, read the paper that falls out of the box
I believe he is demonstrating an adhesive product, not a click product.
No body reads instructions...lol
This is experience right here. It took me a few months of doing floors everyday to pick that technique up. Probably helped my boss was SCREAMING to get it done 😂
Had to listen to this 26 times and go thru 3 boards before I finally got it! Thanks!
Uh sir, U might have a severe case of ADHD
I did a similar way by connecting the row side by side then connecting the tongue into the groove of all pieces like one long piece. much easier, much faster. Great content btw!!
When you hammer it not only does it "seal" it but it'll also lay flat instead of raising up like it did at the end of the video.
Exactly what I was thinking too. A rubber mallet is perfect for this. In my opinion if it’s still raised up like that it’s actually not fully 100% locked and that’s where hammering comes in to secure it
Lol I seen that to when it clicks properly it also lays flat
Exactly
All these random comments helped me a lot, I appreciate people like you adding more insight for newbies like me. @@HARDCOREx92
Someone will say “ I have to walk on it anyway” 😳
I figured that out a long time ago. You are correct sir.
As a professional floor and tile installer for the last two years, this is the only way I was shown. The only other tip I have is when u do engage that end joint, start as close as you can to the side joint of the board it’s about to click into. That way there’s less chance of breaking the locking mechanism and quicker/easier to get the plank together. 🤙👍
A home depot employee told me I didn't need to glue the planks down, they were rubber and bendable they felt heavy and good, I cant believe you can set a heavy bed on them and they wont come up
It’s faster if you work from the inside as you sit on the flooring that you already installed
Until you accidentally kick a board loose and now have to undo the last few boards you placed to fix it lol, don't even walk on it too much for the first day, let it rest into place
@@Torpax_😂
@@Torpax_no, I’ve laid flooring for about 25 years and every company has you lay while on the product, most of the professional tools are made for being on the plank as you tap them in
yep, been doing short edge then long edge for quite some time. I will say, that ya always wanna do a final tap on your planks if possible. Sometimes we think they are clicked in, but if they ain't, you will get gaps between the planks with expansion and contraction, and movement across the plank in time to come.
Yes sir! That feeling of seeing a plank separated in the middle of the floor when you are walking off the job. That happens once.
Different products require different techniques. Thanks for teaching people with your 1 day of experience.
I bet you didnt figure that out as quick as he did on your first day, give people a break man, companies and installers "us" are killing them with our prices due to "inflation" when its actually a hustle rather then a trade in sense of just installation. Prep is prep but thats a diff story
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@husseinabboud7979 Come on, the prep is easy too...
Haters hate, it's ALL they can do. Keep hating HATER..!
That is correct, except you should do an entire row at once.
Been doing flooring for almost 10 years and it amazes me that people don’t figure this out. And for all the people that will say it doesn’t fill seat itself that way just give it a couple taps and your done. This way is a lot faster.
“Faster” is subjective. I’m willing to bet I could give the OP a 2 hour headstart and still lay the same square footage of flooring faster than him. Technique is only half of the equation. 90% of DIYers are gonna end up losing an hour as soon as they need to do some sort of mitered or beveled cut around something because they don’t know how to mark out efficiently. It don’t matter which way you “catch” the board as long as you flush it up and hammer it to seal. Run your hand across the seam as you tap and you’ll feel it close. I’m not a flooring guy, I’m just not retarded and I’ve been in construction for 20+ years
The hammering is important to make sure you get a strong seal. If you have a waterproof board the hammering allows the underlayment to seal the boards together. Is doing it by hand without a hammer worth finding out one day your subfloor rotted from spilled juice because you didn't want to take the extra step to make sure it was wayerproof?
Not true. You push the plank in until you hear or fill it lock. You don't have to hammer it. If you have to, then you are doing it wrong. I've been installing this flooring for a while with no hammering and never a call back for that. It's only if it doesn't lock. You are damaging the ends. Or your tile is cheap.
He's saying not to hit the other end in, you do hammer the seam down on this type of flooring but the kind I'm using right now you have to do it the way he's showing or it will snap the tongue
I'm a professional floor installer and you do not need to hammer. You just listen for the click. This floor does NOT need to hammered on the seam. The way he does it is the way to truly do it
I only hammer if I have to. Not usually necessary in wide open spaces
Michael got roasted in this comment section lol
I just found that same trick yesterday. No tools need, quick and easy. Just lining it up correctly at an angle and shaking as you push in on the join. If it goes in correctly, the plank will lay flat.
You still need to hammer that it will
Split after months
Absolutely not true! I am a professional floor installer. And you do not need a hammer. The hammer damages
Yep! Lions floor would only install this way but I learned the hard way, breaking several along the way. Glad you shared this.
WOW, do you have someone who can fix it after your installation, swear to God you will need him
This is especially true with the thinner stuff that likes to break off the tongue or groove when hammered.
Should still tap it in. Good stuff
Agree. You don't need to beat it down. But a few taps for a better seal.
@@raulaleman2277 bingo!
or you can connect the smaller side first and lift up on it a smidge and tap it in with a nice solid 2x4 with solid edges. so much easier and faster
I just pulled up and replaced a bunch today in a room with very little right angles, I hammered the ever living snot out of those planks to get everything to fit. But it worked. It wasn't easy and I hated every second of it, but it looks nice now that it's done.
Another tip, still a couple of planking together first then lock it into the previous row
Thank you so much, did my room today following your advice.
You still need to hammer it dude
Tell me your a roofer without telling me your a roofer
@@Stinkypinky982 he he he :D
I used to be a flooring installer before I was injured. If you have a friend or helper you can build one full row connecting the butt edges then you and help get on new side of floor grab whole row lift it and click it on to the next full row 👍👊
just keep a rubber mallet handy for those moments you do need it, and need it you will, quite often :D
It depends on which system it is... All those videos you see of people beating it like that are top lock.
Exactly. I see people arguing about it but youre the only one whos mentioned theres 2 types of locking systems for this floor. Hes using the kind you dont need to hammer on the seam
There’s a difference between “need” and proper pride in your work. Does an electrician “need” to put all the outlet cover plate screws at 12-6? No but basically every single one does because it looks cleaner. You hammer the floor to seal gaps. Especially as an idiot DIYer who doesn’t understand what expansion joints even are or how settling happens. It don’t matter if it’s top or side lock, be an adult give it a few taps to seal and keep moving you lazy crybabies.
@@ligyron2835
uh no. You do not need to tap on the tongue if it's not top lock. It literally just does not work like that. If it's in then it's in.
Advice sounds great... Thanks for sharing...
Great video and great information
Lots of different grooves. I've found the best one is the patented Uniclick.
Damn, that does look easy peasy. Thanks man
Correct I’ve been doing this way but but there are different style locking as the drip lock also cheaper lvp are easier to lock and unlock which is not good so I like the quality ones once u install it and move to the next row less lickly to mess up the current rows
Yep, he’s right, I just did the same planks in a spare bedroom and that was the easiest way because tapping them together from the end has a tendency to leave the under-mating of the plank to show as a seem, it looks terrible that way.
It may seem like it connect but once you tap it slightly it give it a final seal. Just use scrap piece. It works wonder for me!
Thx! This Helped So Much!!!!!
This works great, but it only works with Shaw flooring unfortunately.
That's the way I install it... except I just installed some that the butts ends do not interlock. Just follow manufacturers instructions (and hope they are clear enough) ;)
Best suggestion is YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH IT BECAUSE THEY ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS OF LOCKING SYSTEMS, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS & IF YOU MUST ASK OR DO YOUR HOMEWORK PLEASE DO, IT WILL DEFINITELY HELP YOU IN THE LONG RUN.
Getting ready to start thanks
Floors have various locking systems. That one looks brutal.
You still got to hammer it, I'm sure it's going to come up soon by itself.
Love u. Made my day. Forgot how to. Works now
I learned this the hard way. I removed various rows of planks (5 times) because something was always wrong. learning slowly - now room #1 is almost done: then 4 more rooms, some closets and hallways. At the end we should pros. mom and son!
Wow genius figure it out I'm impressed
Omg brother, this video is a pain to watch. U posted this video in 2021 and I guarantee u that flooring needs to be swapped out now. First off when installing this flooring u should be on the flooring, opposite of how u were installing it in the video, u will lay it way faster and better. Second you should be tapping it in with that mallet and also ur block to ensure no micro cracks. But all of that should be the least of ur worries cause you’ll be changing that flooring in about give or take 2- 3 years. Why do u ask? Cause u got no moisture barrier. I’ve been changing out flooring that has been laid with no moisture barrier and the flooring is only about 2-3 years old, still new! Countless homes all for the simple reason that they skimped out and didn’t do a moisture barrier. I love it for 2 reasons, 1 tearing out the pretty much new flooring just gives me joy, 2 brings me more work!
Works with the thinner boards, thicker ones doing this will snap the Tongue off the short end if it's plastic. You can tape the join to help keep in place.
What i found out is easier is actually working om the floor not behind the floor because your working backwards, get a flooring tapping block
You don’t need a tapping block. Just use a scrap piece of flooring as your cover and hammer away.
Shouldn’t you have a moisture barrier between to concrete and the floor to prevent moisture damage to the floor
Or polyethylene
You know a lot of concrete that is pulling water after it’s been cured for years?😂. Also most of the LVP boards come with a bit of a backing to them. And you can’t “damage” the floor since it’s plastic. When’s the last time water destroyed the plastic bottle it’s in?
@@ligyron2835idiot.
Installer here, try sitting on the other side.... hella more comfortable. Good job figuring it out dude. Plus, not all plank install the same, yours happen to click nice and smooth. Each kind requires a diff way believe it or not, but you seem to have the mindset for it. Give it a try around the house and fuck it, make some money man!
Different company. Life proof you hammer down this kind you lock into place
Break all the locks in mid to low end planks, way to go! 🤙
Depends on whose plank you are installing, they dont all go together the same way.
That method can chew the corners up tho. When bringing it down, it can sand sometimes does catch and rip the corner
We were struggling with the hammer until we found your video! This is the best information out there!
I’ve installed about 6000 sq feet of vinyl plank, I’ve always just lined up the long edge, slide it by hand to meet the short edge, and then tap until locked.
I never used to have issues with lock in plank systems. Now everytime it's a giant PITA.
Give a little knock with that left hand where short join slides to ensure it’s popped in completely before pressing it all down
I have the same boxes of flooring so imma try it! Came here to find videos to watch first. Thanks!!
I want to do it myself and a little nervous. Thank you.
We purchased Shaw flooring from Lowe's on 8/28/2021 as part of a remodel. Not long after the floor was installed (by us), we noticed the floor separating and cracking in various places. The install was straightforward and followed the instructions to the letter. Shaw was contacted about this issue, and a claim was started A third party inspector was sent to our home. We got the claim back, and was denied. Said the floor was separating and cracking due to poor installation. Really? There's only one way to install this floor. We followed the instructions, and nothing was forced. Very disappointed in this company. We spent 2200 dollars on this floor and they don't want to make this right. We're not looking to have the whole floor replaced, just the damaged areas. This floor also has a 30 year warranty. For what? I'f your not going to stand behind your product, then don't offer a warranty. Sounds like they'll use any excuse to get out of helping the customer. We will never buy from this company again. Horrible experience. We spent alot of money, and time to on installing this floor. I guess since they have our money, that's all they care about. So sad. HORRIBLE PRODUCT!!
I agree. Shaw is horrible. Nothing but problems with our Shaw LVP.
God bless you sir. I knew you were it from the 🇺🇸🧢
With that particular locking mechanism. Which sounds like the quick loc locking mechanism
Depends on the vinyl your installing
This!
Nice moisture barrier
Yeah that works if u get the right flooring some floors is easier to line up the long side
You don't need a hammer you need a tapping block the only time you should need a hammer is to get typically the board into door jams or around the perimeter
This method honestly saved our project !!! Thank you great tip
It’s how I’ve been doing it since I started doing flooring. To that is the easier way.
Omg 😲 this is exactly what I needed. I was planning to save money for all those expensive equipments. Am gonna do this tomorrow
Most of these floors are installed easier working on top of the material pulling the material back towards you Reading the directions is key
This is because in “general” people’s back muscles are stronger than their chest muscles and you can engage better leverage “pulling” toward you rather than “pushing” away from you. Not to mention your weight sitting on the already laid boards forces them flat and doesn’t allow for them to shift as you seal the new board. Not rocket science, simple physics.
Only works on floppy stuff good thick stuff goes together with off cut tapping along log joint to seat lock on short joint
We even put a not even a half cut piece on the joint to make sure when we tap it in after it doesn’t move . But I would still tap the end or both sides just to make sure u get that seal
What I do is put the long edge in first keep it up so it slides easy then slide the corner into the corner of the already laid piece then just let it fall into plane give it a couple taps on the joint and a couple down the length of the plank and she’s in. Always lay the floor so the tongue is the leading edge that way you can just lay the new piece over it not trying to fight it by trying to get the side edge to lock in while trying to fit the tongue. Under the groove.
I love your choice of attire! Great job. Your shirt is awesome and the USA Cover on your grape just gives me joy joy feeling. I also like your advice. Great video Sir, or Mam. Sorry for not knowing, but I don’t want to assume your chosen gender. I have been informed recently at work that doing such can be rude. Please have a great day
Legend has it hes still not done laying the floor down from installing on the outside :p
This is pretty much how I did my own kitchen, but it definitely doesnt work for all vinyl planks. Some you need to line up thr long edge and hit the short edge with a block and a hammer on the face.
didn’t take me long to realize that and i still hate it. so glad i don’t need to take side jobs anymore lol
And now it isn’t completely sealed 😅 great job. 6 months from now you’ll know why your supposed to hammer them tight
Great tip!
yep. this is a great way to avoid breaking it too. good job!
Works on that flexible shit
Thank you so much I was about to give up
I don’t use the word “hate” often but I HATE installing these things. They never click. I’ll try this but never again.
Thank you!!!
Funny to see people comment on the subfloor blah blah and hammering. I'm a pro been doing all types of floors for a living for 20 years. 1) he doesn't need to hammer if the tongue and Grove systems clicks! It is a terrible plan to use a hammer. No need! 2) he doesn't need an underlayment the floor comes with underlayment attached
Do all the floor systems come with underlayment attached? Im doing my own overt concrete and don't want to spend unnecessary money.
No need for underlayment if it is already attached but you do need a moisture barrier on concrete. Without it you void the warranty
You are correct. But he's a PRO! Lol@@NewbanksGirls
@@NewbanksGirls100% need a moisture barrier. 100% want a moisture barrier.
You should make the floor even first lol it's a slight gap between the vinyl and floor
The only thing I noticed was the horrible staggers and that thin material should always have plastic or moisture barrier installed before planks are installed
Thanks, I’m about to tackle this.
Ain’t no way. I just helped a buddy DIY some LVP and if we locked the short edge first there was no way to get the long edge snapped in. Took us probably 2 hours of fighting with it to figure that out, but once we did the rest of the floor went together in no time.
Jeez it took yall 2 hours to troubleshoot? I laid a 400 sq foot space for my sister in about that time and i was solo and my first time doing it. 😂
@@ligyron2835 Whole project took us ~3.5 hours. Id guess it was close to 400sf. Is what it is. Came out mint in the end so that’s all that really matters.
Well i can tell ya right now, you being in front of the boards instead of behind them is the main source of your issues. Also, like others have said in the comments, just follow the manufactures instructions. If youre having a difficult time with it then youre either doing it wrong or your subfloor isnt as flat as you thought. Idc what the orange apron told you at the box store, interlocking floors still need a flat surface to be installed on, the whole “zero prep” is for imperfections in the floor as in if you just ripped out carpet strip you dont need to patch the holes. Ive been an installer for 13 going on 14 years now
Or… flip it around and lay the long end in and the short in will fall right on top. Like it’s supposed to.
@seth do u have to put spacers at end why do they do that iv seen a lot of that on that do
Do you think it's safe to put directly on concrete? I have a similar floor and was told I have to use a vapor barrier.
Yeah you can if it has pad already under it
Alot of vinyl plank has pad attatched to it already if you can see the bottom of the board then you will need a barrier
You should test your concrete for dampness to determine whether a barrier is needed.
Can you sit on the oter side of the lamanite 😂 probables with that tho sometimes other plank comes out. If you do yourself use the drop lamanite. Its seriously easy
Best thing to do is work on the new floor soon as u got some ass room. Goes in like butter
No underlayment required when laying on cement?
Thanks from a hotchkiss in montana