When you have you gaskets taped up to the gasket matched head. Take a tiny dab of silicon at the intake side middle and on the ends, intake side. Let dry and carefully remove manifold from heads. If done properly you now have fully templated ports with and exact placement of where the manifold ports are in relation to the heads/gasket. Mark port outlines and remove gasket or leave in place for a template. Be careful if you do not to hit gasket with die grinder. 100% perfect match every time..
Years of experience has shown me to match the ports to the heads fist then find something to tack the tops like rtv to the intake gasket and st it on your head, then the intake. That how to truly align an Intake. Hope that helps
After doing all the work to align everything, (IMHO) the best thing one can do is to place the intake on the engine with the gaskets & look down the ports to the head. As you mentioned. This way one can see if things are aligned or if there needs to be an adjustment made before porting heads & intake. I use a bore scope connected to my smart phone to look down the ports of my intake to determine if the placement on the heads is as I had determined or not. The bore scopes for a smart phone are cheap on Amaz-n & one can take pictures & video on your phone to use as a reference. Excellent job pointing out how to mark your gaskets placement, I like using a very fine sharpie to trace with. On my SBC I marked a couple spots on the head where the gasket upper edge sits so that I can easily see it while installing everything. Additionally your suggestion to keep the intake a tiny bit smaller gives one a little bit of a buffer to not create a lip on the head & turbulence, is a very good idea.
I just carefully taped the Intake Gaskets to the heads... then with frog tape placed at several strategic spots... I placed several little dabs of silicone. Let it sit three hours in place and with the tape pulled away from the head lifted the Intake off with gaskets positioned perfectly in place. Took it to the bench and scribe-d to taste.
Backin the 70s I started port matching 461 Chevy 1.94 heads. An old engine builder told me to use a metal Stanley marking gauge. I set the depth to 3/4 of an inch and that was used on the intake as well. I used a starret o1 tool steal to make a template using the bolt holes to locate the ports . I sent it to heat treat for hardening a nd straighing . I used the template on the head and manifold while removing the metal. I never took stock back any farther than the gasket lines or the 3/4 depth lines I laid out. That made it a nice transition but not too radical.
Good to know! I have an old 351 in my truck. Trans in the truck is not happy, and the cab is rotted out. So, I told the wife I would try my hand at rebuilding the 351 and putting it in the 64.5 Mustang her father is giving us. Trying to do a bit of budget performance upgrades to it, as I'm sure the 351 will still make the far feel quick just on it's own. Going to watch some of your other videos on this engine, always something to learn
Good vid and subscribed. I'm working on a Jeep 258, and thinking about giving this and some Pocket Porting a go on a head. Thanks for describing this, and also saying the grit you used. I've read that you need roughness for atomization, but it's not talked about much in other vids like here.
Good video, nice explanations, have you noticed those sharp edges actually causing whistling noises? Ive just recently picked up a 93 foxbody, with a trick flow track heat top end kit, ive had the upper intake off on it and noticed quite a few sharp casting edges, honestly youd think trick flow wouldnt have let them leave as bad as they are, but anyway, will smoothing those out help to elimate that whistling im getting?
Thank you, good question, honestly it should not cause a whistling. It sounds like a vacuum leak to me . A bad vacuum line, a crack in one , a cracked vacuum fitting or even a leak in one of the intake gaskets. Lower ,upper ect . I hope that helps .
Do you port match the coolant passage also? My apologies for a different manufacturer question but should still apply. I have a #906 Vortec head and there is ALOT of material within my blued scribe mark. Intake gasket is out of a kit. "Problem solver gasket" i was told. Plain metal core with black rubberized molded gasket around port.
No problem, I usually just remove the sharp edges inside the water passage on the intake face side of the head , just to remove some turbulence. I would not worry about making it larger , more than enough water can flow through to cool properly. Water flows out of there ,not in like intake ports . A port exit where something flows out of is better be slightly smaller than the opening of what bolts up to it , as to not create a sharp edge for air, fuel or fluid to hit and cause a loss of flow .
What gasket do i use for my edelbrock performer on iron eagle heads? there is a gap at the runners. Seems heads were milled before i got them.1970 350cu
That's a good question. It leaves me with a few questions. If I were you I would want to know the size of the combustion chambers to know if I have my target compression ratio or is it too much? If they have been milled much, you may have to shave the intake as well, it could be sitting too high. I'm guessing you have a sbc, if it is machined properly any std intake gasket should work. P.s. there are thicker gaskets available if that is necessary. Hope that gave you a little direction.
IMPORTANT! I noticed you mentioned to not do a mirror finish on the inside of the intake and to leave a little roughness, do you think that this also applies to port injected kits, like the edelbrock pot-flo 4.
Good question, Port injected engines should not have an issue having polished intake runners . However intake runner finish has little to do with actual flow figures , shape and a good match up should be the focus.
@@blueovaldude That's cool didn't know if you did side work porting..there's a lot of wack jobs out here, I'm just into old fast Ford's.One day I hope to get my hands on a Fairmont.
@@stevecooper8121 i do some once in awhile . I prefer to not take much on , so that i can enjoy wrenching, racing and driving my hot rods more . Fairmonts/zephyrs are getting harder to find , they may be more popular than ever now . Find one and have some fun with it. 👍
When you have you gaskets taped up to the gasket matched head. Take a tiny dab of silicon at the intake side middle and on the ends, intake side. Let dry and carefully remove manifold from heads. If done properly you now have fully templated ports with and exact placement of where the manifold ports are in relation to the heads/gasket. Mark port outlines and remove gasket or leave in place for a template.
Be careful if you do not to hit gasket with die grinder. 100% perfect match every time..
Years of experience has shown me to match the ports to the heads fist then find something to tack the tops like rtv to the intake gasket and st it on your head, then the intake. That how to truly align an Intake. Hope that helps
After doing all the work to align everything, (IMHO) the best thing one can do is to place the intake on the engine with the gaskets & look down the ports to the head. As you mentioned. This way one can see if things are aligned or if there needs to be an adjustment made before porting heads & intake. I use a bore scope connected to my smart phone to look down the ports of my intake to determine if the placement on the heads is as I had determined or not. The bore scopes for a smart phone are cheap on Amaz-n & one can take pictures & video on your phone to use as a reference. Excellent job pointing out how to mark your gaskets placement, I like using a very fine sharpie to trace with. On my SBC I marked a couple spots on the head where the gasket upper edge sits so that I can easily see it while installing everything. Additionally your suggestion to keep the intake a tiny bit smaller gives one a little bit of a buffer to not create a lip on the head & turbulence, is a very good idea.
I just carefully taped the Intake Gaskets to the heads... then with frog tape placed at several strategic spots... I placed several little dabs of silicone. Let it sit three hours in place and with the tape pulled away from the head lifted the Intake off with gaskets positioned perfectly in place. Took it to the bench and scribe-d to taste.
Backin the 70s I started port matching 461 Chevy 1.94 heads. An old engine builder told me to use a metal Stanley marking gauge. I set the depth to 3/4 of an inch and that was used on the intake as well. I used a starret o1 tool steal to make a template using the bolt holes to locate the ports . I sent it to heat treat for hardening a nd straighing . I used the template on the head and manifold while removing the metal. I never took stock back any farther than the gasket lines or the 3/4 depth lines I laid out. That made it a nice transition but not too radical.
You need to do more video's, Cleveland related we get information from you that valuable. Thank you blue oval dude.
Nice video. I would have liked to have seen the before and after of the rough casting in the manifold . Even if the before was a still shot photo
Good to know! I have an old 351 in my truck. Trans in the truck is not happy, and the cab is rotted out. So, I told the wife I would try my hand at rebuilding the 351 and putting it in the 64.5 Mustang her father is giving us. Trying to do a bit of budget performance upgrades to it, as I'm sure the 351 will still make the far feel quick just on it's own. Going to watch some of your other videos on this engine, always something to learn
Sounds like a fun project, what year is the 351 ?
@@blueovaldude 83
@@HedgehogOutdoors truck rods , so bonus . If you have any questions shoot a comment. Have fun with it.
@@blueovaldude will do, thanks!
You want rough edges on the inside cause while the air and gas is moving through it will mix better than without smooth edges
Good vid and subscribed. I'm working on a Jeep 258, and thinking about giving this and some Pocket Porting a go on a head. Thanks for describing this, and also saying the grit you used. I've read that you need roughness for atomization, but it's not talked about much in other vids like here.
That's cool , glad I could help you out.
Good video, nice explanations, have you noticed those sharp edges actually causing whistling noises? Ive just recently picked up a 93 foxbody, with a trick flow track heat top end kit, ive had the upper intake off on it and noticed quite a few sharp casting edges, honestly youd think trick flow wouldnt have let them leave as bad as they are, but anyway, will smoothing those out help to elimate that whistling im getting?
Thank you, good question, honestly it should not cause a whistling. It sounds like a vacuum leak to me . A bad vacuum line, a crack in one , a cracked vacuum fitting or even a leak in one of the intake gaskets. Lower ,upper ect . I hope that helps .
Thank you
Ok you gasket matched your intake you can still see your pen marks no blueing no scribe line The intake the gasket and the head all can be opened up
Do you port match the coolant passage also? My apologies for a different manufacturer question but should still apply. I have a #906 Vortec head and there is ALOT of material within my blued scribe mark. Intake gasket is out of a kit. "Problem solver gasket" i was told. Plain metal core with black rubberized molded gasket around port.
No problem, I usually just remove the sharp edges inside the water passage on the intake face side of the head , just to remove some turbulence. I would not worry about making it larger , more than enough water can flow through to cool properly. Water flows out of there ,not in like intake ports . A port exit where something flows out of is better be slightly smaller than the opening of what bolts up to it , as to not create a sharp edge for air, fuel or fluid to hit and cause a loss of flow .
@@blueovaldude, Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question! That was my guess bit I wanted to be sure. Take care and thanks again!😊👍
@@AR_420 you're welcome, no problem. 👍
What gasket do i use for my edelbrock performer on iron eagle heads? there is a gap at the runners. Seems heads were milled before i got them.1970 350cu
That's a good question. It leaves me with a few questions. If I were you I would want to know the size of the combustion chambers to know if I have my target compression ratio or is it too much? If they have been milled much, you may have to shave the intake as well, it could be sitting too high. I'm guessing you have a sbc, if it is machined properly any std intake gasket should work. P.s. there are thicker gaskets available if that is necessary. Hope that gave you a little direction.
@@blueovaldude ahhh found a felpro 1266 intake set..0125 perfect now. Ty
IMPORTANT!
I noticed you mentioned to not do a mirror finish on the inside of the intake and to leave a little roughness, do you think that this also applies to port injected kits, like the edelbrock pot-flo 4.
Edelbrock Pro-flo 4*
Good question, Port injected engines should not have an issue having polished intake runners . However intake runner finish has little to do with actual flow figures , shape and a good match up should be the focus.
nice video - well explained, will try this technique on my next engine
Thank you, glad i could help out . 👍
Where did you get your crank pulley from
The electric water pump, crank pulley and alternator brackets are all from CVF RACING .
Think it depends on application
Do I notice epoxy in the rear intake port of the head?
The heads are a test bed of sorts . There is no pushrod pinch. So every port is filled in that area .
What brand of crank pulley is on that motor
CVF pulleys , I've used them a few times .
Are you putting it on a engine dyno?
Yes it is going on a dyno , unfortunately, the shop is shut down right now because they may have coronavirus .
Is this the motor your putting in the zephyr...? Can't wait...
Yes , it is going in the zephyr 😎 . It will be a much more enjoyable car for me when it goes in .
@@blueovaldude Were are you from
@@stevecooper8121 i prefer to keep that private at this time . Somewhere in the Midwest though.
@@blueovaldude That's cool didn't know if you did side work porting..there's a lot of wack jobs out here, I'm just into old fast Ford's.One day I hope to get my hands on a Fairmont.
@@stevecooper8121 i do some once in awhile . I prefer to not take much on , so that i can enjoy wrenching, racing and driving my hot rods more . Fairmonts/zephyrs are getting harder to find , they may be more popular than ever now . Find one and have some fun with it. 👍
All corredt info, but show it being done not tell it being done.
Right on
If its a street car why pick a single plane
What?!