Detail paint 1/25 scale trailer oil hubs - an easy upgrade for your model big rigs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Kits are available for many types of "big rig" trailers and they come with a variety of different wheel hubs depending on the kit.
0:15 Some are not very accurate, surprisingly Ertl's "Blueprint Replica" kits are in this category with drive axle hubs provided. This is a case of using existing tooling as the spoke wheels are also found in the S series and some early Transtar kits.
0:47 Italeri does the same with their trailers including North American ones like the "American 48 ft Reefer Trailer" with European drive hubs.
1:55 Resin wheels, such as this one by Plaskit from Quebec, Canada, are a good alternative to incorrect kit parts and typically have some type of oil hub.
2:04 1:1 version of the Stemco hub provided on Plaskit's wheel.
2:23 Separate oil hubs are also available in resin. These just need some detail painting to bring them to life.
2:40 Silver paint, "Flat Steel" from the old Testors line in this example, is a good overall base coat to represent the hub's aluminum body.
2:57 As an added detail, lug nuts are easily picked out with a blunted Sharpie of suitable colour. Seal the ink with Future floor wax before spraying Dullcote or similar clear finish as the Sharpie ink does not react well to solvent based finishes.
3:25 Water soluble India ink is applied to the recessed area on face of hub, similar to inking panel lines on a model car. This represents sight glass with oil behind it.
3:50 Small hypodermic needle with sharp end ground flat is a good applicator tool for India ink.
4:05 "Too much ink" situations occur and excess ink can be wicked up with facial tissue. In the event of a large spill, water soluble ink can be washed completely off for a fresh start.
4:51 Blunted tip on a dressmaker's T-pin is ideal for applying single drop of red paint at centre of hub to simulate rubber plug.
5:31 Trailer tires lead a hard life, and "distressing" the shiny kit parts adds realism. Over at Mighty Modelshop Creations is a good little video on using a drill to spin tires when sanding the tread.
• MMC Shorts - Ep 2 - H...
Sidewalls can also be scuffed with a Scotchbrite pad to take the shine off.
5:52 Moebius provides chrome "top hats" on their trailer wheels which, although they do exist in real life and dress up the wheel nicely, are not overly common on "working trucks". For one thing, they make it impossible to check oil level in hub without removing the "top hat" itself.
6:06 AMT's "doubles" vans, logging trailer and lowboy all seem to be fitted with grease caps on their wheel hubs.
6:43 That brings us to the Pro-Par style axle/wheel (AMT even uses the name "Pro-Par" on many of the instruction sheets) which is an oil hub but with different end cap than the Stemco type.
6:58 AMT's kit wheels are a good representation of the Pro-Par wheel and hub.
7:13 On the van and tanker kits, spoke section fits down inside cylindrical outer wheel portion. Make sure you sand this down to a fairly loose, "drop-in" fit so that it can be installed easily after painting - even a coat of primer and then paint builds up thickness and you don't want to have to force the spoke section into place after finish painting wheel.
7:48 Paint wheel and spoke sections appropriate colours. I am using grey spoke and white outer rim in this example so outer ring around spokes is also painted white as it represents a portion of the rim. Inner part of wheel cylinder gets painted flat black to create the illusion it is an open space (as would exist on a real spoke wheel) rather than a solid surface.
8:22 Inevitable brush painting "oops" situations can be corrected by touching up in suitable colour after "oops" painted area dries thoroughly.
9:07 HB pencil colours triangular clamps at end of each spoke and is easier to control when applying colour than a paintbrush would be.
9:28 Wood dowel for lug nuts and blunt toothpick for brake drum bolts apply colour directly to the desired area, again with much more control than a paintbrush when dealing with this tiny a quantity of paint.
10:20 A brush IS used to apply Tamiya "Smoke" (#X-19 in their acrylic selection) to wheel hub cap. This does a reasonable job of making a solid piece resemble clear plastic with dark hub oil behind it. Finish with drop of flat black at centre of molded-in cap detail, applied with blunt toothpick for better paint control.
10:41 Kit part or aftermarket detail item, trailer oil hubs are a detail worth investing a little "detail paint" time on. It will help add a little extra degree of realism to your model trailer - and oil hubs are also found on truck lift axles and tag axles, as well as on steer axles.
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Detail paint can make so much difference on the spokers. Thanks for sharing.
As a youngster I liked to draw truck pictures, as well as (attempt) to build the kits, and I always preferred spoke wheels to the AMT chromed 10 hole ones. I don't know exactly why this was the case, it may have been because in the 1970's spoke wheels were very common here in Ontario, Canada and would have been what I saw on the majority of real trucks.
This is a great channel love these tips I have the AMT tanker trailer I just replaced the wheels in the kit with the 2 hold steel wheels and they come with accurate wheel hubs I also don't care for the tire's that come in these AMT kits again aftermarket steer and drive tire's they never get that right all kit manufacturers do this
Great improvement and correction tips. Another step I've taken on the daytons at 7:47 is to put 5 spoke in place (keep it from moving) and scribe the 5 openings into back wall. Take out 5 spoke and remove plastic to open. BTW, your videos remind me of ones Paul Budzik did, only his were aircraft based.
Thank you for that tip, will do that on the next AMT trailer. 1/25 is large enough to really benefit from opened areas like the wheel centre described.
I looked at a selection of Paul's videos, I see what you mean about some similarities however his production quality is much better - a goal to strive for!
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 great, and will add since inside has brake drum ring, don't go straight in, but angle the cuts outwards at first so you can retain the drum. HTH cheers.
Very nice tip. I did not realize there were different trailer wheels. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome - there is a lot of variety in the subtle details like wheels and hubs on trucks and trailers, one of the many reasons I like them as scale model projects.
I like the modified tee pin idea. Will have to try that.
I’m certain it is not an original idea of mine, I likely read it in a hobby magazine years ago. Sure does make it easier to place a single drop of paint accurately.
Very cool video I've yet to think about a tractor trailer combo as a model but with these tips doors are opening and I getting a little more interested with each video I watch of your thanks a bunch. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist #10 thumbs up
Truck kits are a lot of fun…they can become “addictive” though! I like building them because almost all 1:1 trucks are a custom in one form or another as they are spec’d for different applications by each user. Even fleet trucks often have subtle variations between them.
Great tips, as always. Thanks!
Thank you - no claims to originality for any idea of course, just passing them along so everyone can use them. I'm sure I have seen the various techniques at different times in hobby magazine articles and books over the years.
Excellent detail.
Thank you, working on colouring different parts on these spoke wheels reminded of when fire trucks usually had painted steel spoke (or disk) wheels and detail painting along with chrome lug nut covers were often used to dress them up. Now almost everything out there runs Alcoas, which do look nice but all look the same.
Thanks for the tip, I’m a fan to build trailers and use different spoke wheels on them!
Question is there any chance in the future to show the how to modify the AMT 10 holes wheels to make them more accurate? (you kindly answer me the step by step) It would be fun to see a video of that process.
Thanks 🙏🏽 once again for sharing your knowledge.
The modified AMT wheels likely are not 100% accurate, main reason I used them was because I had so many around! I could put a quick “how to” together, for now the basic steps are to fill every other hole with styrene rod (I think .080” but would have to confirm that), sand smooth and use putty as required. Most difficult part is sanding inside the rim.
Lug nuts are taken from “snap” kit wheels which I also had lots of from parts kits, sanded down to make a paper thin ring with nuts attached. Glue this to inside of rim and install on appropriate hub and brake drum.