Milling Spindle Attachment Part 3 Machining Bearing Pre-Load Assy.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2018
- In part three of my lathe milling attachment see how I machine the bearing pre-load and pulley shaft assembly from a 20mm bolt. Also see brazing with silver solder 55%, using the Bullfinch Auto Propane Gas Torch. SOME GREAT OFFER LINKS BELOW:-
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At the time of this posting the "Like's" are 587 with 37.9K subscribers! What the hell? Steve's a true Machinist in every sense of the word. In my mind the "Like's" should read no less than 37.9K !!!!!
Chris WA2ERQ
I never tire of watching you build stuff Steve, as a complete novice to engineering its brilliant to learn what you can accomplish with some imagination.Thanks for passing on your knowledge mate.If I had to start a career when leaving school I would definitely choose engineering (bit too late for me now though!) Thanks again Steve 👍🏻👏😎
Well thank you very much for your feedback. It is very encouraging. I have some more nice project things to make, just finished one today. Hope to upload the video later. Regards Steve
Looks nice. Great work. Thank you
Hi Steve. I thought I would leave another comment. I'm not sure if you are familiar with packing a bearing so thought I would mention it. Tapered bearings should be packed with grease and there are several ways to do this. That is how the front wheels of autos used to be done and look at the miles and abuse they took. If the bearings were not packed you didn't get much mileage out of them. Enjoying the series. Going now to see the finishing one with motor.
Nice & Great!
Thank you.
A couple of drops of washing up liquid in the powder flux when mixing it, and you can re use what isn't used, just add a couple drops of water to use it again.
Nice work Steve. I’ve been thinking about a future spindle project for my diy CNC machine based on those straight collet shafts. I couldn’t think of a good way to get the thread and drive end sorted out so the silver solder idea is a great one. Thanks
Hi Thanks, Later I will show how one can do exactly the same using Loctite 638 instead of brazing and it will be just as strong. Regards Steve
That was my initial thought together with a cross drilled dowel pin ( belt and braces!). Thanks
You can also heat the outer part and shrink the inner part by freezing it.
However, you have to be quick when assembling the parts.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooling_bath
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Man kann auch das äußere Teil erwärmen und das innere Teil durch tiefkühlen schrumpfen.
Beim Zusammenfügen der Teile muss man allerdings schnell sein.
I keep thinking about making a REALLY quick and dirty version of this. Generally, just drilling and reaming a 20x30x100mm block of mild steel lengthways with the bore off to one side, Then making an 8x200(ish)mm spindle and mounting one of those cheep little 0.6 to 6mm chucks on it. Oil up the spindle, put it through the block, clamp the block in the toolpost, and slap an electric drill on the end. I might need to thin down the side of it a bit to get it into the tool post, But as it would only be the face that the clamping bolts go against, I could probably even get away with just roughly taking out a 5mm step using the bench grinder.
I'd only really need it as a guide for drilling holes squarely in the side or front of work pieces, So it would probably be fine (At least for a while) running oiled metal on metal without any bearings.
Nice work. I was thinking of using similar materials for a spindle. If you wanted to leave the bore hollow all the way through the spindle, do you think threads could be cut on the outer diameter ground surface using a standard carbide thread tool?
Thanks, It would have to be a fine thread as there isn't much wall thickness to work with. I have machined these shafts with standard carbide inserts. They are not overly hardened.
Excellent work of machine building, as is your teaching of the logical design and construction techniques.
You spliced a threaded extension to the stock chuck spindle. Was that necessary because a longer spindle was not available, which you could have threaded and turned down for the pulley?
Did you consider cross-drilling a taper hole and using a taper pin to lock the extension to the spindle, instead of (or in addition to) solder?
I prefer timing belts and pulleys for these types of assemblies. They're cheap, available, effective, and readily modified to fit.
Hi Richard, I've just finished the project this evening. I shortened the whole assembly in the end by 55mm. The pre-load and pulley assembly can just be fitted with Loctite 638. There is no need for a pin or brazing.
I prefer machining up already threaded components like the bolt I have shown. It saves a massive amount of time, over setting up the lathe for threading.
Also I like to show people how to make things that are uncomplicated and easy to copy without a load of tedious theory or technical stuff, which can put newcomers off of engineering.
I used a poly V multiple rib J section belt and pulleys. These work brilliantly.
I have been milling hard steel with a 12mm end-mill and it runs brilliantly and produces excellent finishes. I hope to show a video of it in machining operation this weekend and will put some photos on my Google+ page if i get the time.
Threading would keep the spindle to one piece, but you are correct, the workmanship required adds a level of difficulty and feasibility risk. If you bungle the threading, then you've gotta pay and wait for another spindle. It's also not obvious how one would workhold the knobby ER end of the spindle so you can work on the input end.
Loctite surely is going to stay put and not spin loose under any available torque. I'm recalling how using the ordinary permanent threadlocker will twist the cap off a bolt.
Great job making that spindle, but you have to pack those bearings with grease, not just apply a bit to the surface.
dear steve jordan greetings mate, i have learned a lot from you very much thanks.i born in malta, had a lots of british mates there, i been in dawn under here for now 46 years, great country,and i was a chippy all me life, malta and here,your amazing trademan, well i got a question, m not that bad now, and i got chinese mini lathe too.7" x 14" those blue ones its on ebay, 550 watt, 100-2500 rpm, and wonder how do i make threads, ??? i got set plastic gears with it, but inside it came all metal, except the 2 large bottom ones are plastic, does it need to change any gears to make threads ,my manuel does not say, maybe i need to buy a manuel from ebay.???any idea i can get from your experiance, much appreciated, good long years to you mate cheers
Nice job Steve !! curious of the run out?
Hi I haven't checked that. It looks ok and works perfectly so i didn't bother. I will check it later today. Regards Steve
Nicely done. Is there enough room up front for a shield and a collet shaft spanner? Cheers Peter
All finished with clip on cover....plenty of room...Hope to show it machining steel this weekend. It runs smoothly and machines steel perfectly. So I'm well pleased with the results.
Merhaba temiz işçilik
can you show us how to make air bearings?
Looks more like silver soldering than brazing ??
I actually made a milling slide similar to that one. Where can I see the earlier videos on this project? Where can I get the collet part?
Hi that's great that you made a vice. I will see if I can find the video, which also has a link on the comments section for the collet part.
Steve, I think that the two parts should have had more flux on them, before you put them together, it would have made a stronger part.
Hi No it was absolutely solid with plenty of braze all round. I shortened the whole spindle assembly by 55mm after this video and I couldn't remove the preload part from the sawn off end when I reheated it so it was a perfect braze job. I had to make a new part. I have installed the new one using Loctite 638. Will show it all in operation later. It has worked out excellent.
Hi Steve. I also noticed that you didn't use any flux in the hole you made for the solder to go inside. I also wondered why you did not use loctite 638 to cement it together instead of soldering. I think you have sold me on the idea of using the loctite 638.
Hello!
The Collet Chuck Holder has a pre drill thru hole, or you made it? on minute 1:34
I'd like to make an ISO20 tool holder from C20 ER25 Collet Chuck Holder and grind it. I need to put thru the hole a drawbar with pre loaded spring mechanism.
Hoping to make spindle for my plywood CNC with fast tool change like here
th-cam.com/video/cK8GqIieLMY/w-d-xo.html