I always remember, if I ever think “man I’m getting pretty damn good at machining” I just watch one of Chris’s videos and it puts me in check lol, just the GOAT in my eyes, perfection to the last detail
It is so evident it is the tiny little details that can make or break the accuracy of any project, especially your tools used to make the fine parts of the project! I have spent my entire life learning the little details like this, and watching Chris do his work is so satisfying!
Hey folks, this one might be a little cryptic without the narration. This is a most helpful little trick that I use frequently on all of my lathes in one way or another, so be sure to check out the full discussion in the source video here: th-cam.com/video/FHE4zMfEZ2Q/w-d-xo.html
Nice work Chris! It's all about complementary offsets, the high side of one part counteracts the low side of the other, like high tolerance precision bearings.
Yes absolutely, most of the time you don’t need to do it, at least with the 8mm and WW collet adaptors I got I didn’t need to do anything other then find the best running orientation and mark that in reference to the headstock and they both run dead nuts now
I don’t see the danger. This is an intermediary part between spindle bore and collet, no turning of the actual spindle bore taper in that video that I saw?
Love it, the frame on this pendant I made for my wife was resin printed then lost wax cast in sterling silver th-cam.com/video/Gw3aCAQjC88/w-d-xo.html - Cheers :)
One note. Prick punch the sleeve prior to installation and machining. The chance of messing things up after machining but why risk it. Better than a punch use a Dremel or small grinder to make the alignment mark. If at all possible this is the second best collet mounting solution. The best is directly into the spindle. The worst imo is a collet chuck because of the overhang from the spindle bearings.
annnnd another thing with stamping letters, marks, whatever... throw some contrasting paint on and file back the burr... i seriously hate modern laser engraving, its as bad as old school silk screened valves... gimme cast in or stamped data, thankyou very much...
Hi Chris I had originally watched this as part of the face plate series, and am curious about your decision to mount the faceplate by the collect adaptor versus the threaded chuck adapter. I'm speculating that the thread lacks repeatability.
@@ClickspringClips Thanks ! looking back at the original model I see it now. Work holding is such a fascinating topic. I used to work for a CNC machine tool dealer and quickly came to understand that a lathe ,no matter how good it was , really at the end of the day, did nothing more than spun the part and accurately placed the cutting tool against that part. Holding onto the part (like a casting, or any other nonsymmectrical part) required a huge amount of work and creativity.
Polishing freehand with sandpaper would smooth out the tool marks, which could be good, but it is also bound to remove material unevenly. In precision applications like this, something like a tool post grinder would be the thing to go for. That could potentially leave both a better finish, and a more accurate surface. If it were only roundness, and not concentricity that mattered, one might also turn to lapping, though I'm not sure it is suitable for a machine taper like this, as the cone shape needs to be interchangeable, and not just fit one tool.
I always remember, if I ever think “man I’m getting pretty damn good at machining” I just watch one of Chris’s videos and it puts me in check lol, just the GOAT in my eyes, perfection to the last detail
It is so evident it is the tiny little details that can make or break the accuracy of any project, especially your tools used to make the fine parts of the project!
I have spent my entire life learning the little details like this, and watching Chris do his work is so satisfying!
Marking the collet with the punch is a good idea for repeatability. Thanks Chris for the video.
... just straight up and down, flat out, art ... honestly makes my day ... thank you!
Getting something to run perfectly true has to be one of the most satisfying things ever. 🙂
even more rewarding is getting two bores at opposite ends of a long bar to run dead true!
Hey folks, this one might be a little cryptic without the narration. This is a most helpful little trick that I use frequently on all of my lathes in one way or another, so be sure to check out the full discussion in the source video here: th-cam.com/video/FHE4zMfEZ2Q/w-d-xo.html
I'm glad you wrote that. I was stupefied.
The hex bar for the lathe dog
is an idea that I stole from you
some time ago. Brilliant! Thanks.
Nice work Chris! It's all about complementary offsets, the high side of one part counteracts the low side of the other, like high tolerance precision bearings.
This is pure accuracy pr0n. I'll be in my bunk.
This is one of those magic bullet solutions. You have to really understand it and be careful how you apply it, or you'll do more harm than good.
Sherline has a really good PDF on this that explains it very well.
Yes absolutely, most of the time you don’t need to do it, at least with the 8mm and WW collet adaptors I got I didn’t need to do anything other then find the best running orientation and mark that in reference to the headstock and they both run dead nuts now
I don’t see the danger. This is an intermediary part between spindle bore and collet, no turning of the actual spindle bore taper in that video that I saw?
My girlfriend had a magic bullet and that sure was a problem for me.
What are your thoughts on making parts (in your area of craft) with FDM,SLA, etc.? You always have such precision!
Love it, the frame on this pendant I made for my wife was resin printed then lost wax cast in sterling silver th-cam.com/video/Gw3aCAQjC88/w-d-xo.html - Cheers :)
I could still see some runout at the end. I think it might have been as much as 400 nanometres.
One note. Prick punch the sleeve prior to installation and machining. The chance of messing things up after machining but why risk it. Better than a punch use a Dremel or small grinder to make the alignment mark.
If at all possible this is the second best collet mounting solution. The best is directly into the spindle. The worst imo is a collet chuck because of the overhang from the spindle bearings.
annnnd another thing with stamping letters, marks, whatever... throw some contrasting paint on and file back the burr...
i seriously hate modern laser engraving, its as bad as old school silk screened valves... gimme cast in or stamped data, thankyou very much...
Hi Chris I had originally watched this as part of the face plate series, and am curious about your decision to mount the faceplate
by the collect adaptor versus the threaded chuck adapter. I'm speculating that the thread lacks repeatability.
Hello mate - its mostly about leaving the main axis clear for a centering feature, the center threaded arbor makes the space a bit crowded - Cheers :)
@@ClickspringClips Thanks ! looking back at the original model I see it now.
Work holding is such a fascinating topic. I used to work for a CNC machine tool dealer and quickly
came to understand that a lathe ,no matter how good it was , really at the end of the day, did nothing more
than spun the part and accurately placed the cutting tool against that part.
Holding onto the part (like a casting, or any other nonsymmectrical part) required a huge amount of work
and creativity.
What is the bearing type?
would polishing the surfaces make even more improvement or does that come with more problems than benefits?
Polishing freehand with sandpaper would smooth out the tool marks, which could be good, but it is also bound to remove material unevenly. In precision applications like this, something like a tool post grinder would be the thing to go for. That could potentially leave both a better finish, and a more accurate surface. If it were only roundness, and not concentricity that mattered, one might also turn to lapping, though I'm not sure it is suitable for a machine taper like this, as the cone shape needs to be interchangeable, and not just fit one tool.
Is there any way to take this improvement and move it back into the lathe itself?
Perfect result. Is it a W10 or W12 collet adapter or even smaller ?
according to the sherline site its for WW collets
Don’t even need to watch to hit the like button, I know what’s coming 😀
I knew the dial gauge was faulty /s