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Lathe Milling Spindle Attachment Part One Machining A Long Billet.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2018
- Making my milling spindle on the Myford ML7. See how to machine long billets with too much overhang safely, without using a steady PARTS & TOOL BUYING LIST BELOW:-
ER11 to ER25 Straight Shank Collet Chuck Holder C8 to C20 -- goo.gl/1AxQrV
52mm Mount Clamp Holder Spindle Motor Mount Bracket -- goo.gl/Q1W42Q
Professional 0-25mm Electronic Digital Micrometer -- goo.gl/wEyDD9
9pcs 3/8 Inch Shank Boring Bar Set Lathe Tool -- goo.gl/9MbgL5
S12M-SDUCR07 12x150mm Internal Boring Bar Tool -- goo.gl/4e42my
MT2 Live Center 0.02 Inch Accuracy Lathe Taper Tool -- goo.gl/7Npnem
60% off Mechanical Parts Sale -- goo.gl/zTujuM
12% off Cutting Tools -- goo.gl/BeMJzL
12% off Workshop Tools Promotion -- goo.gl/zYzchM (coupon: 13ED48)
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Hello,Steve,
another great video,
with a complete narrative, of the complete process.thanks Steve for sharing on youtube.........enjoyed it immensely.being retired i make time to look at and like all of your videos.....
Excellent video Steve, and perfectly timed! Need to safely turn long 6061 billets of a diameter larger than the through hole. Once again your video efforts enable me to make production possible using the lathe/mill I have (which has no steady) instead of sending out and paying that high cost. Bonuses include learning to make a spindle and producing the quality I want. Many thanks.
Great video as always, now to wait for part 2. Cheers Peter
Thanks for sharing this with us Steve
Nicely done, I enjoy learning from this video. Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice project. I'll be following your uploads with interest. Cheers Mike
Excellent tutorial. Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us.
I have learned a bunch from you. Thanks for your dedication on detailed videos.. I am going to make a mechanical stop like you have, I can see many uses in making a job easier.
Hi Thanks, Yes the stops are so good. I bought mine, but they could easily be made. Regards Steve
Nice job. I made one with a er11 recently. I used some high speed aircraft motor bearings.
Nice work Steve
a very good teacher
Great work. Thank you for sharing
I appreciate your creativity, engineering skills and craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing your work. Are you a prototype machinist?
hi steve when you cut your shaft shorter in the later video did you clean the bore supported on the lathe steady before you glued the new end on, i,m just starting out on lathe turning and your skill is great to watch thanks steve
Great approach Steve. Nice going -- I noticed you were also a member of the black nail club - another member here :)
Hi Chris, yes I put my woodturning lathe headstock down on it. I think its one of the worst pains I know!
Hi steve, just wondering what size do you make the inside diameter of the part in comparison to the bearing size for a good fit for the bearing,
Worked out well Steve.
The only thing I would have done differently is to use my large four jaw chuck, as that would give longer grip surface on four jaws, and greatly reduce the chance of the job twisting in the jaws (as can happen with three jaws).
But that's just my view on long stuff in scroll chucks.
Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, Yes I would have done that as well, but I only have small 4 jaw chucks at the moment that wouldn't be good to hold this large diameter. With the jaws in the outer hold positions there is only 8mm depth of hold, whereas the 3 jaw one I'm using has 26mm. Also the 4 jaw wouldn't hold this diameter to allow the billet to go up hard against the chuck face, like the 3 jaw, so using a 4 jaw would increase the overhang. I hope to get a 125mm dia 4 jaw soon. I just had to take more care when machining.
HI Steve,
Sounds good. I have a 6" four jaw chuck and quite honestly that is as heavy as I would ever like to go. How guys get on with 8"+ chucks is beyond me. So damn heavy. Maybe they never swap over for a collet chuck.
But, yes, I have had work catch and twist in a three jaw chuck. It's just the way they grip stuff that makes them quite prone to this.
I enjoy your videos very much.
Cheers Rob
A half dead centre will give you a cleaner face off thank you for great videos keep it up
I need to get one of those internal gauges!
Hi Tommy. It is called a dial caliper. They seem to be quite rare to get hold of.
You could use an end mill to make a pretty flat spot for the center drill...
how did you ensure bearing seats are concentric?
Hi steve love your video's do you think the Chinese mini lathe is powerful enough to work in titanium
Hi yes it will be fine. Make sure you use brazed on carbide tools or standard un coated inserts not titanium coated ones. Also if there is a lot of machining take care because the swarf can ignite without coolant. I had this once happen in a factory it burns like arc weld bright flame and is very fast burning
I loved that tip on using the lathe stop to measure the depth of the bearing and I understand how good that is. My question is when using the power feed, do you stop it just before it gets to the stop? And then manually feed it the last few mm? Otherwise I imagine it’s not a good idea to run into the lathe stop with the power feed, I guess that could do some real damage to the lathe or tools? Cheers
Hi Shaun, Thanks, Yes I run the feed until the last 2mm or thereabouts, then feed by hand. The stops are extremely handy used like this to get a depth. I had a clanger once where I didn't stop it in time, but luckily it didn't do any noticeable damage. I only use a stop and power feed with the fine feed though.
Great idea for those who need a vertical head for their horizontal. One question: without a four-jaw chuck, how will you get a parallel seat for your roller bearing on the other end?
I have a 4 jaw but I can use my three jaw for this and get it spot-on.
Hi Steve, seems like you should have done the finish turning first - as it stands you have no way to ensure that your two bearings are concentric. They'll be parallel because you reference against the faced ends, but since you're only centering the part in the chuck with the rough outside surface, won't the locations only be as concentric as that rough outside surface?
Hi Steve, great video. I'm making a mini-milling spindle too. Where did you buy those cheap tapered roller bearings? Normally, they cost a lot. Thanks from Singapore :)
Hi Steve, I bought mine on Ebay......www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Taper-Roller-Metric-Bearing-DUNLOP-30202-30213/201793076890?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=501832503110&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Be warned that like many of the digital calipers, that on/off switch only turns off the display - power continues to be drawn by the micrometer. Definitely keep spare batteries in stock.
Thanks for that warning.....something I never thought about or knew........Grrrrr.......one reason why I love/hate all those tools that have battery power, nice to be able to switch from Imperial to metric and get three digits of accuracy BUT.....they're always flat when you want to use one.......unless you ggrrrrrrrr remove the battery in all of them all the time when not in use.
I leaned towards the dial caliper as they aren't battery powered but have a small rack and pinion to do the actual measurement.......but grrrrrrr, the damn things can get small particles of dirt or swarf in the rack and you end up with the needle pointing down at the zero end.......I want a small rechargeable battery for my measuring tools, one like the LR44 battery size, but they don't make them.
I've had the digital caliper over a year now and I'm still using the same battery, so there isn't any power loss over time or its extremely minimal loss.
@@SteveJordan Probably I have some old off the shelf batteries that they sell on EBAY by the thousand.
I've had some bad luck battery wise but then I've also had some that do last for a while.....luck of the draw.....with hindsight I think it pays to buy them in as you need them and not buy in bulk.....a dollar a year is nothing in the end, but in the middle of the night when the display starts blinking I get a bit miffed......I'm working on an idea for a tiny super capacitor to cure the problem......thinking.
Hi Steve. You mentioned a light cut and then a spring cut. Could you please explain what a spring cut is. Thanks.
Hi it is where one takes an cut then leaving the tool in exactly the same position without adjusting the diameter and taking another cut which will be the amount the tool sprung off of the last cut. Just try it next time you do a turn. You will find a spring cut just skims a minimal amount off without moving the tool in at all. Regards Steve
hi steve great video i the link for the bearings pls
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAPER-ROLLER-BEARINGS-30204-30213-DUNLOP-STANDARD-BEARINGS/123793987537?hash=item1cd2b257d1:m:mtpr09ujEv6XbCBtEQbR6Fw
BEARING SIZE 20MM x 47MM x 13.25MM (Bearing Number 30204).
I'd love to chat to you about the ideas I have for my lathe.
I was considering this exact project, but with a steel quill and larger collets. I did purchase the collet chuck, but measured it and assumed what video shows at 5:40 in. I have taken apart many mill spindles and never encountered one where the bearings can slip on the shaft, they always had a interference fit. This is why I did not proceed with the project.
Wait until you see the end result and what its used for. to see if its any good or not... 'The proof in the pudding is always in the eating', is what they say.
No this will be fine.It will be perfect for what I want it for. Also If I wanted to I could put a light application of Loctite 638 on the shaft when fitting the front bearing, not that I will need to though. These type of bearings wont wear out on small milling operations on the lathe. I'm not making an actual milling machine!
I have checked it. It doesn't rotate on the shaft in use. Also a light smear of Loctite 638 when fitting completely removes any chance of slippage even if it was a thou or two loose.
you can use loctite man
Loctite bearing locking compound. That's what it is used for (amongst other things). Admittedly probably not the old way of doing things but for this application perfectly OK.
For the facing problem, don't you have a steady rest?
I must buy one sometime!
Steady rests are not hard to make. It is a good starter project for any machinist.
Yeah, I saw later on that you didn't have one. If you do get one, be alert to the maximum diameter it can hold. It's deceptively smaller than the bore of the frame.
aluminum bearing housing in one piece without line boring....strange
I hate this kind of drill chuck. It is difficult to tight.
You have some REALLY long consonants.... LOL
Hi Madam thanks for watching. Regards Steve.
PARTS & TOOLS SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO LINKS BELOW:-
ER11 to ER25 Straight Shank Collet Chuck Holder C8 to C20 -- goo.gl/1AxQrV
52mm Mount Clamp Holder Spindle Motor Mount Bracket -- goo.gl/Q1W42Q
Professional 0-25mm Electronic Digital Micrometer -- goo.gl/wEyDD9
9pcs 3/8 Inch Shank Boring Bar Set Lathe Tool -- goo.gl/9MbgL5
S12M-SDUCR07 12x150mm Internal Boring Bar Tool -- goo.gl/4e42my
MT2 Live Center 0.02 Inch Accuracy Lathe Taper Tool -- goo.gl/7Npnem
60% off Mechanical Parts Sale -- goo.gl/zTujuM
12% off Cutting Tools -- goo.gl/BeMJzL
12% off Workshop Tools Promotion -- goo.gl/zYzchM (coupon: 13ED48)
Category
BEARING SIZE 20MM x 47MM x 13.25MM (DUNLOP Bearing Number 30204).
15% off Mechanical Parts Clearance -- goo.gl/uaHuve
Tools & Equipment Clearance -- goo.gl/ZNBDsu
Measurement Instrument Clearance -- goo.gl/Dbkb4X