MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such. Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard… The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage… So, unless your transmission specifically tells you it can accept BOTH GL-4 OR GL-5 gear oil (ex: Toyota, Subaru), don’t test your luck… There’s a reason GL-4 gear oils/MTF’s are harder to find and cost more than typical GL-5 gear oil.
You rock dude! Everytime i research how to do something on my e36 you pop up! very good content i have learned a great deal about working on this platform thanks to you sir and howdy from Houston Teeexas 🙏
This is so well done. Easy to follow, all the important information. I am changing the fluid on a 2000 M Roadster (Orange ATF sticker - thank you for the tip!) and this video helped so much! Thank you!
Am I bugging, or did this dude straight up put GL-5 (hypoid) gear oil in his Getrag manual gearbox that specs ATF (or MTF, GL-4)..? The last time I did that, the synchronizers wore like hell with hard driving. The shifting was shit within less than 3-4 months, and changing it a whole year in… you could tell the damage was done. During the trans fluid drain, so much metallic oil came out; and DIY flushing it with both the ATF it spec’d, as well as MTF, did not fix that… Edit: There’s also a major difference in running GL-4+, which is made to be compatible with both GL-4 and GL-5 spec requirements (at your own discretion). It obviously states it’s safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), so typically fine for most manual gearboxes.
I personally go through and change the diff, trans, coolant, brake fluid, ect and change it roughly every two years. my cars mainly see street and weekend canyon runs, so two years is about right. im sure track day bro's change it much more often.
I change mine every 1-2 years. I run Pentosin ATF-1. Mine says MTF-1, but its perfectly fine with ATF-1. Believe it or not, bmw switched the specs with zero other changes, mainly because mtf-1 can get them the "lifetime fluid" bs. When I first bought the car the transmission was notchy and terrible. You couldn't get into first gear at a light, had to double clutch. Now? Butter. Butter smooth. Pentosin ftw. No such thing as lifetime fluid Edit: I ran aft-1 for a year, drained it, fluid was fairly clean, nothing compared to the mess when i first bought it
This is great advice and I may try that Pentosin. My E36 M3 requires ATF but I filled it with redline MTF. Started out great but three months later very notch and also have the first gear issue where it won’t engage right away. Thanks!
@@DonBMW Can't go wrong with OE fluids. Recently found out that Certain mercons are rebadged pentosin atf-1. Google! Much cheaper than buying it from Pentosin
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such. Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard… The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
ok so did the gear oil you put in with the Valvoline limited Slip GL 5 work with out any grinding problems OR Any Problem's. or would it be better to use GL 4. ok Please let me what you Think .or how is RED LINE MT -90.i've heard good thing's about this gear Oil. just asking your opinion cus i respeck YOUR Opinion. please let me no A.S.A.P what you think. Thank You Clark
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such. Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard… The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
hi clark. i see you have a yellow sticker on this video which would mean manual transmission fluid. BUT your putting in 75/90 gear oil in on this Video , so is The MTF Yellow sticker Gear Oil ?? . i was just wondering because i have a yellow sticker on my 1998 BMW 323is manual transmission to.so should i put in the 75/90 in this transmission ??. please let me no what you think. Thank you
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such. Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard… The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such. Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard… The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
Do you know if on the orange tagged transmission has like a over flow on the top of the transmission cuz myn keeps dripping after I drive it for a bit but when let sitting it doesn’t drip? just would like to know so if I need a new gasket I can get it
I have 98 E36 M3 auto. I am doing an automatic transmission filter/fluid change. The filler plug is not the same as non-M3 e36. At first, i thought the filler plug is the small pinky size allen bolt/plug located at the back side of trans pan, near the green plastic cover. I unbolt it but this tiny hole does not allow any ATF fluid to pump in. This is not the filler plug. Not sure what's the purpose for that. After lots of digging, I found a diagram of zf transmissions. www.www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/Tranny/SD92-114.pdf. This shows that the green plastic plug under the pan is the location of the filler plug for S52 engine. Pry off the green plastic cover. The bolt inside requires a large allen/hex 17mm. To pump in ATF fluid in use a hose and make sure you stick it 1/2 foot into the pan. There are no videos for changing an auto- e36 M3 trans fluid. Hope this helps someone. Please make a future video.
hmm, did you ever figure it out? i wonder if there is a different fill hole. unfortunately, I never serviced the auto transmission fluid on my car when it was auto, as soon as the auto started having problems I threw it in the trash and swapped a manual.
@@M3NACE thanks. I figured it out. The big green plastic cover under the pan is the location for the filler plug. It was a frustrating process trying to find it. Thx . Love your videos.. a huge help to us new e36 owners..
@@M3NACE yes. I Drained and refilled. Fill until ATF drips out. Turn on engine and run through all gears. Keep engine running and pump more ATF until fluid starts to drip again. Done. Not sure if this is correct procedure. TIP...I also replaced the filter. There are two different transmission pan bolt with clamps. the bigger/rounded clamps go at corner. The smaller/flat clamps go on any straight edge. Otherwise, the clamp will bite the gasket as you tighten the blot and not seal properly.
Lol you don’t need to go under your car to know what fluid it takes. ATF is automatic and mtf is manual. I sure hope people know what they are driving.
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such. Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard… The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such.
Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard…
The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
So, unless your transmission specifically tells you it can accept BOTH GL-4 OR GL-5 gear oil (ex: Toyota, Subaru), don’t test your luck… There’s a reason GL-4 gear oils/MTF’s are harder to find and cost more than typical GL-5 gear oil.
Just did this, thanks for the video. My drain plug was super tight was worried it would snap but luckily it didnt
You rock dude! Everytime i research how to do something on my e36 you pop up! very good content i have learned a great deal about working on this platform thanks to you sir and howdy from Houston Teeexas 🙏
This is so well done. Easy to follow, all the important information. I am changing the fluid on a 2000 M Roadster (Orange ATF sticker - thank you for the tip!) and this video helped so much! Thank you!
Am I bugging, or did this dude straight up put GL-5 (hypoid) gear oil in his Getrag manual gearbox that specs ATF (or MTF, GL-4)..? The last time I did that, the synchronizers wore like hell with hard driving.
The shifting was shit within less than 3-4 months, and changing it a whole year in… you could tell the damage was done. During the trans fluid drain, so much metallic oil came out; and DIY flushing it with both the ATF it spec’d, as well as MTF, did not fix that…
Edit: There’s also a major difference in running GL-4+, which is made to be compatible with both GL-4 and GL-5 spec requirements (at your own discretion). It obviously states it’s safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), so typically fine for most manual gearboxes.
mmmm yellow sticker. What interval are you targeting for fluid changes?
I personally go through and change the diff, trans, coolant, brake fluid, ect and change it roughly every two years. my cars mainly see street and weekend canyon runs, so two years is about right. im sure track day bro's change it much more often.
That jack makes me feel sketched out lol! Good video!
yeah saw that during the edit lol
I change mine every 1-2 years. I run Pentosin ATF-1. Mine says MTF-1, but its perfectly fine with ATF-1. Believe it or not, bmw switched the specs with zero other changes, mainly because mtf-1 can get them the "lifetime fluid" bs. When I first bought the car the transmission was notchy and terrible. You couldn't get into first gear at a light, had to double clutch.
Now? Butter. Butter smooth. Pentosin ftw. No such thing as lifetime fluid
Edit: I ran aft-1 for a year, drained it, fluid was fairly clean, nothing compared to the mess when i first bought it
hmm, that is interesting. I heard second hand a while ago that they ran different syncro's, but i never looked into it.
This is great advice and I may try that Pentosin. My E36 M3 requires ATF but I filled it with redline MTF. Started out great but three months later very notch and also have the first gear issue where it won’t engage right away. Thanks!
@@DonBMW Can't go wrong with OE fluids. Recently found out that Certain mercons are rebadged pentosin atf-1. Google! Much cheaper than buying it from Pentosin
Redline atf ... all I use in my Getrag.
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such.
Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard…
The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
Nice outro the bucket sitting in high grass looks nasty ✨. Camera game +1 my man!
ok so did the gear oil you put in with the Valvoline limited Slip GL 5 work with out any grinding problems OR Any Problem's. or would it be better to use GL 4. ok Please let me what you Think .or how is RED LINE MT -90.i've heard good thing's about this gear Oil. just asking your opinion cus i respeck YOUR Opinion. please let me no A.S.A.P what you think. Thank You Clark
The fluid i used in this video works perfectly.
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such.
Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard…
The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
hi clark. i see you have a yellow sticker on this video which would mean manual transmission fluid. BUT your putting in 75/90 gear oil in on this Video , so is The MTF Yellow sticker Gear Oil ?? . i was just wondering because i have a yellow sticker on my 1998 BMW 323is manual transmission to.so should i put in the 75/90 in this transmission ??. please let me no what you think. Thank you
Read the sticker, mtf is gear oil atf is atf, regaurdless of sticker color
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such.
Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard…
The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
Will mobil 1 75w90 LS work well? Will the LS hurt the transmission? Thanks
LS will be fine. As long as the trans takes gear oil that fluid will work.
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such.
Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard…
The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
Do you know if on the orange tagged transmission has like a over flow on the top of the transmission cuz myn keeps dripping after I drive it for a bit but when let sitting it doesn’t drip? just would like to know so if I need a new gasket I can get it
I have 98 E36 M3 auto. I am doing an automatic transmission filter/fluid change. The filler plug is not the same as non-M3 e36. At first, i thought the filler plug is the small pinky size allen bolt/plug located at the back side of trans pan, near the green plastic cover. I unbolt it but this tiny hole does not allow any ATF fluid to pump in. This is not the filler plug. Not sure what's the purpose for that. After lots of digging, I found a diagram of zf transmissions. www.www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/Tranny/SD92-114.pdf.
This shows that the green plastic plug under the pan is the location of the filler plug for S52 engine. Pry off the green plastic cover. The bolt inside requires a large allen/hex 17mm. To pump in ATF fluid in use a hose and make sure you stick it 1/2 foot into the pan.
There are no videos for changing an auto- e36 M3 trans fluid. Hope this helps someone. Please make a future video.
hmm, did you ever figure it out? i wonder if there is a different fill hole. unfortunately, I never serviced the auto transmission fluid on my car when it was auto, as soon as the auto started having problems I threw it in the trash and swapped a manual.
@@M3NACE thanks. I figured it out. The big green plastic cover under the pan is the location for the filler plug. It was a frustrating process trying to find it. Thx . Love your videos.. a huge help to us new e36 owners..
@@cya3651 sweet man good info! Ill pass it along if someone else has the same issue. Did you just drain and fill the transmission?
@@M3NACE yes. I Drained and refilled. Fill until ATF drips out. Turn on engine and run through all gears. Keep engine running and pump more ATF until fluid starts to drip again. Done. Not sure if this is correct procedure.
TIP...I also replaced the filter. There are two different transmission pan bolt with clamps. the bigger/rounded clamps go at corner. The smaller/flat clamps go on any straight edge. Otherwise, the clamp will bite the gasket as you tighten the blot and not seal properly.
Just acquired 86 328is manual. I have an orange sticker. Can you recommend an ATF brand of fluid to use?
96 328is manual.
@@edwardglatzmayer5466 I usually run valvoline maxlife or royal purple ATF but ATF is ATF
@@M3NACE Thanks. Keep up the good work!
will thicker ATF/MTF fix a 2nd gear grind? I have a pretty bad grind when I shift into 2nd above 3k RPM
You can try, might also try shock proof
New wheels?
nah, its a family friend's car. I wish
Make a trade for the maintenance 😁
Are there crush washers on these plugs?
no, it is an NPT fitting.
Hey so I have a e36 m3 manual with 150k miles. I'm not sure if the fluid has ever been changed. Is it safe/smart for me to change it anyways?
Yes, should be changed every 2-3 years
@@M3NACE even if its never been changed before? I've heard that could cause problems
@@MrBellyman128 with automatoc transmissions it can.
@@M3NACE oh alright thanks man. I wasn't aware there was a difference
if its manual check level every 2 years change every 10 years if manual
You are a good teacher 👌🏿
Solid vid as always
I just crawled under my car to check the Trans Sticker and there wasn’t one
Run ATF
@@M3NACE it’s a 226 getrag what kind of ATF?
@@aidandaubert id run like redline or maxlife
@@M3NACE thank you 🙏🏼
Lol you don’t need to go under your car to know what fluid it takes. ATF is automatic and mtf is manual. I sure hope people know what they are driving.
Some manuals take ATF, some take MTF. My 97 M3 with a ZF 5 speed manual uses ATF, my 98 M3 with a ZF 5 speed manual takes MTF. always need to check.
@@M3NACE that’s wild, German engineering can be wacky sometimes.
@@yoltsbp very true brotha
MTF is typically GL-4 spec max, and GL-4+ in special cases with particular brands. Do NOT be mistakened… GL-5 is a HYPOID gear oil, completely different additive package for differentials and such.
Running that is NOT safe for yellow metals (ex: brass synchronizers), and you’ll most likely figure out the damage sooner than later if you drive the car hard…
The only other exception is GL-4+ gear oil, which is made to be yellow metal safe all around, for both GL-4 and GL-5 spec’d applications. On GL-5 gear oil products, it even specifically tells you that using it in GL-4 spec applications, is for NON-synchronized usage…
Don’t go as hard on the plug as he did
I didn’t even go as hard and my plug cracked
Torque wrench is a good investment.
Just a big fuck you to headphone users in the beginning there huh?
Yeah i kinda stopped using that intro for that reason, sorry
you pull the plug too hard!!!
I pull the plug too hard?
He pull the plug too hard???
Edward Glatzmayer