How to (Efficiently) Paint 10mm Armies
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ม.ค. 2022
- How can you get a large army of miniatures on the tabletop quickly? We all love the look of massed ranks of troops, but painting them all can be daunting when you're just starting on a new project. Today Greg is here to share his method for efficiently painting 10mm scale armies! These are all 10mm Pendraken models from their fantastic AWI range, but the beginner-friendly techniques used in this tutorial are equally applicable to painting models from any era of history.
www.pendraken.co.uk/
So how many paint colors do you actually NEED in order to paint British infantry from the American War of Independence? As it turns out....not many at all! To paint his armies, Greg is using just the handful of basic colors included in the Army Painter Starter Set. It takes a lot less than you think to get a fantastic looking 10mm army on the tabletop for gaming!
shop.thearmypainter.com/us/wp...
If you want to see these winterized, 10mm AWI troops in action for a wargame, check out our Battle of Trenton episode, played on location in Trenton for 245th anniversary of Washington's surprise attack!
• Surprise Battle of Tre... - เกม
I don't know anyone else with a historical miniatures army of any period or size; I can get people to play with me but I have to paint everything, so minimizing time spent painting is super important. This looks super fast and the figures look great. I can't wait to give it a try!
Play online with Tabletop Simulator. You could use photos of your based figures.
Shout out to Pendraken. Did you know during the first days of the pandemic they switched to 3d printing PPE for health and care staff for basically free? They're stars!
Did not know this! Very commendable.
You guys are so fortunate to have such an amazing group of wargamers.
That's for damn sure. We count ourselves very, very lucky indeed.
The timing of this video is perfect as I wait for my 10mm Pendraken 7YW minis to arrive. I usually base coat with gray, but I had been thinking of doing black, and this video reinforces that. One difference is I will use blue poster tack to fix the minis to the stick rather than glue.
I stopped using black primer years ago when I couldn't pick out the detail and have used grey ever since. But the grey dry brushing on top of the black (even though it adds an extra step) looks as if it might be the solution. Pity I din't see this sooner - I've just primed some Pendraken AWI artillery this morning using my usual grey. 😄
Following a Games Workshop painter for GW Warmaster (10 mm - 15 mm) I started using white primer with a wash of a mix of isopropyl alcohol, black ink, floor wax (just a few drops), and water. Basically a home-made version of what can be had as Army Painter washes now (but I have not tried those washes on 10 mm). It is like immediate black-lining of the figures, but leaves the flats nearly clear white. Base coat different areas with thinned paints, hit highlights, and the figures are ready for basing and play.
I think that it adds depth to the transition areas between flats and crevices that are lacking in purely flat painted bits and way finer in detail than I could manage by blending or layering (and who wants to do blending or layering on 10 mm?).
love all the clarifications about goals for how your minis look, especially since all we usually get on you tube is modesty that belies the beautiful minis, that us normal joes despair of. You guys give an opportunity of example to prove that with effort, its actually possible to game with painted stuff. Hats off to you!
Huge Pendraken fan, I have mutipule collections from them and I am always happy with the quality of thier sculpts.
Good video Greg and great results on those figures, they really pop on the tabletop.
I just purchased my first ever 10mm Pendraken figures for the Dark Ages. I’m going to take your advice and skip the wash and see how they turn out.
You had me at 10mm
Love the channel.
Love the scale even more.
Keep it up!
Awesome how to video!! I ordered some AWI stuff from Pendraken after watching the Brandywine videos and got the Live Free or Die rules can’t wait to get started!! You guys do great work with your channel. Thanks for making awesome content!!
An excellent tutorial. I have never painted any scale smaller than 15mm and even at 15mm I wish I had seen this video before diving in. I am not a War Gamer, I paint just for the fun and relaxation of it. I am a recent subscriber and I am not disappointed, in fact I am delighted. Great work, great narration...easy to follow...well done Sir, well done indeed.
Great video, looking forward to trying these techniques on my AWI Pendrakens.
Great tutorial Greg, love all your work on Little Wars TV👍
Amazing! I’ve been painting this way since the 80s. Some people call it black line some people call it black primer, it’s just the only way I learn to paint well and fast. Bravo, sir. Amazing! I’ve been painting this way since the 80s. Some people call it black line some people call it black primer, it’s just the only way I learn to paint well and fast. Bravo sir bravo
Excellent tutorial, thanks for the video!
I picked up some 10mm Pendraken minis along with the Life Free or Die rules and really looking forward to giving them a try! Thank you so much for the tutorial as I've never done 10mm before so this will give me a great start at the painting!
This was a good tutorial. I actually have that Army Painter starter set, and have painted most of my 6mm stuff using mostly those exact paints and pretty much the same painting process. I think it's genuinely a good value for money set for someone starting out, though I think there are a few things you do end up having to buy separately to paint more varied armies. A golden or brass metallic in particular, and I'd suggest getting a proper black primer paint as well, which helps with the white metal models most of these smaller scale models come in. I use Vallejo's surface primers, which work great for both brush and airbrush priming. I've found that most of the set are great starter paints, but the Ultramarine blue in the set is not quite up to par when compared to other blue colours in the industry, so if you are painting blue uniforms in particular I'd suggest grabbing some other blue colour, and using the starter set blue for things like cuffs and turnbacks rather than coats and stockings.
Good video! One tip that was omitted, be sure to wash your minis with soap and water before applying any paint.
Thanks for the video it has opened my eyes to how easy it would be to paint 10mm figures.
I do very similar for my napoleonic 15mm guys. Only difference is I drybrush up to white, and thin my paints a fair bit, and theyre basically automatically highlighted. GW contrast paints, or army painter speedpaints, or vallejo xpress paints are a godsend for this stuff too.
As a miniatures painter since the 70s, I've tried about every priming method, or so it seems. I finally settled on a gray surface primer brushed on followed by a homemade Nuln oil black wash which really brings out the details of the figure before applying the top colors. My experience is that a black basecoat gives a deeper color to a figure while a gray basecoat gives a more original color for the paint applied.
I'm really enjoying your videos. The battle scenarios and tutorials are excellent. Thanks for the effort your group puts into this endeavor as it is a great benefit to the hobby.
I was wondering about using the washes as a second step instead of last then highlighting. What you have described seems both more efficient and more prone to making tiny details pop for accenting with colored paints.
what is your homemade nuln oil recipe?
@@GhostGuitars Check out this video. It is where I got my 'recipe' from. You can work with it for best results, changing wash colors. th-cam.com/video/6vFcRT2wOh8/w-d-xo.html
o that sounds intrestin, never thout of washing before the actual paint. Will give it a go
Be careful from going from Red to White, as you can easily get Pink instead. Clean your Brushes normally, then dip and clean your Brush in Blue Paint before using White.
So true about priming with brush instead of spray. I know that more than half of my primer spray hit the wood railing I set up my GHQ Civil War 10mm figures on and I know at least 3/4 of that paint got the railing and out into the air. Oh well, I have a blue and grey Civil War deck railing!
I do mine grey. Just kinda traditional for me.
Very good video. Very good narration!
Great video, Greg. Might try your method on my slightly larger figures from the Tombstone Tinderbox set.
Used the exact same method on the 15mm Blue Moon Wild West minis, yes!
Try Windsor and Newton inks when washing smaller scale miniatures. You get a subtler effect that increases contrast without darkening the overall minis too much.
More important for 28mm, but white primer is best for those bright colours on most of the models.
So the classic vibrant colours of space marines come to mind, but for historical, the Austrian yellow coats are a good example.
Now in 10mm it's easier to get that nice covering coat of paint, but there's a good reason to use the white primer if the majority of the models will be yellow, bright red, white or similar.
But the grey drybrush does an ok job here, and the 10mm again makes it easier.
But i am also in the black primer camp, just used to it.
I enjoyed the video. I normally prime white and use washes for finishing 6mm. When I start a new project, I might give the black primer a try.
I would love a video on places to buy minatures pros and cons (if you have got one already I can't find it) Pendraken is really good though so thankyou for the link!
What fantastic timing! Just about to start painting up some 10mm warhammer fantasy miniatures (haven't gotten my friends into historicals yet but making progress!)
Hi, I hope you don't mind to tell me where did you get those miniatures from... I've been thinking about making a warmaster army since I discovered it existed a year ago or so, but also discovered I did too late, because GW stopped making 10mm figures so it seems imposible to me to find some...
@@josecarlosgarcia431 So I got mine from Forest Dragon, they have a pateron and gumroad store that sells the STLs. If you don't have a 3d printer they have a list of commercial sellers on their pateron page that sell the models printed (these sellers normally have other 10mm warhammer models as well since forest dragon doesn't have a full range yet)
@@JayVZV thank you very much, I'll have a look.
Pendraken 10mm are the best wargames figures in the hobby. Not the only good ones, but the best.
Excellent stuff. Similar to how I paint my 10mm ACW guys 😊
Tnx. I need all the painting tutorials I can get. Have yet to buy paint. I'm off the scale of most with my 54 mm AWI men. Britain's LTD vintage plastic swoppets and others. Had some when 13yrs. Now about 250 plus Accurate militia and metal drummers/flag bearers etc. It's Rev War 250 time!!
I'll check out the 28 mm tutorial. Love checking in with Little Wars.
Hope to see a video on that terrain building for 10mm scale too.... :D
Nice - clear and simple…but effective.
A very good video!
Very good vid, great job….
Hi Greg great vid thanks for sharing, I use the same method for my 18mm Napoleonic they look stunning on the table. Have to question your painting of Royal Artillery in redcoats though! 😱😱
Haha yea good catch. And you weren't the first to catch it. Someone at the club called me out and I repainted the crew! Luckily it was just a couple of models!
This is the technique I use. As I'm 63 I've been using it longer that you, so you're welcome...my young padowan😂
5:42 a white base coat is basicly the number one way to make things pop
I like using black paint primer, but also found dark brown could be a good primer, especially for infantry.
Brown primer works really well under red or yellow topcoats (lighter brown for yellows).
10mm...not my cup of tea as my vision isn't that good anymore and controlling the tip of the brush isn't as easy either...but...Wow, great tutorial. Straight forward, easy to follow, excellently narrated. Maybe I could give 15/18mm a try...and even if that's too small, I enjoyed "living vicariously the 10mm lifestyle" watching this video.
I've struggled to get good looking 10mm miniatures (Pendraken Greek and Persians for Age of Hannibal in my case) when using washes for exactly the same reason; it really dulls the color and makes them look dirty. I've settled on a very light wash with AP Soft Tone followed by judicious reapplication of highlights. But I may have to be bold and try just block painting some time. I would certainly speed up the painting process.
And interesting to see we use exactly the same cheap craft paint for our bases!
I find that selective use of washes on certain colours only seems to do the trick. Not tried 10mm, but on 15mm and 20mm, I wash the faces to bring out facial features, white breeches to tone down the brightness, and any armour to provide definition. Also horses seem always to do well with a wash to bring out musculature.
I have abandoned 28mm largely due to Games Workshop and it's shenanigans (hire museum-quality painters to handle the "learn to paint" sets...and you wonder why the grey tide exists when the models don't end up looking like the pictures!), the simplicity of 15mm on down (plus the ease of storage) is the way to go.
What is your brush of choice when painting 10mm miniatures?
I always use Tamiya XF1 flat black as you can slosh it on and it dries to the skin as it were so all the detail is still visible.
Nice job! I prefer to paint the bases brown before I glue down the minis. Once dry, I smear white glue over the whole base, place the minis where I like, and then carefully sprinkle on the first (dirt) layer of flocking. This saves me time and I don't have to worry about getting brown paint onto the minis when I am painting the bases. Once the dirt flock is dry all that's left is to drybrush the dirt a bit and then glue down some static grass. It is quick and looks good.
Absolutely, yes. I did this with all of my 15mm Napoleonic troops (basing them first and painting them on the bases). Saved a ton of time. I find it a bit harder to do in 10mm and 6mm.
Hi Greg. Very interesting to see how other people paint and I took a lot from this demo. I've been painting for a long time and am planning new 10mm armies so this was a well timed video release!
I think I will start priming with a brush which is something I've rarely done. Never really considered the problems that too much spary primer causes to the detail on smaller scales.
Question though; Do you ever give the figures a wash in soapy water after cleaning away the flash? I think they usually have some kind of casting residue that I like to remove.
On basing, I keep a tub of ready mixed brown paint and PVA which I put on the base and then just place the figures onto that. Then I decorate the base straight away.
Thanks!
Interesting--I've never bothered to clean metal figures with soapy water ahead of time (maybe I should??). I do clean resin with warm dish soap. About 5-6 years ago I stopped priming minis with spray paint and got into the habit of brush priming. It requires two coats but I get a perfect prime every time and don't lose any detail. I found that even when priming with spray paint I often had to go in with the brush and hit a few under-cut areas the spray missed.
Sei un grande .....ottimo video molto interessante per uno come me che dipinge da 15mm in giù.... ti chiedo usi il nero e il grigio anche per altri periodi storici esempio ancient british e sassoni ? grazie mille
Great tutorial! So no clear coat either? They hold up well?
Hi #LittleWarsTV, Recently I’ve been studying the Mid to Late Tudor Era, And I would Love to see a the Spanish armada battle on the tabletop and maybe even a what if scenario were the Spanish succeeds to invade England!!!
I'm not a fan of 10mm figures. But you painted perfectly for such a scale and I love your step to step system. I suppose that I would not have such a hand to paint such small figures. Great work by you nevertheless.
When I first bought 10mm years and years ago I was not a fan. I painted up a handful and quit. They were a different manufacturer (no need to mention names). Point being, in the time since then I've gotten Pendraken 10mm and Magister Militum 10mm. They are both so much fun to paint. So I don't think it was a scale issue for me at first--I thought it was at the time. Turns out, I just needed nicer figures!
have you considered using poster tack to attach the models to the tongue depressor rather than glue?
That's what I do. Too impatient to wait for glue to dry!
How many figures at a time is the sweet spot do you think? I recently painted 6mm WW1 armies and managed to do 50-60 per 2 hour session. 10mm I think I've done about half that number at a time.
I like to mix of Army Painter Tanned Flesh and Vallejo Light Flesh on my figures. To me Barbarian has too much orange. Thanks for the techniques. Good ideas are always appreciated.
Funny you mention this--at scales larger than 10mm I do not use straight Barbarian flesh. Same exact reasoning at yours. But at 10mm and 6mm I like the fact that Barbarian flesh really pops because it's a fairly bold color.
I started priming with black Gesso and wonder what other brush on primer peoples prefer as due to shrinking I often have to make 3 passes over a miniature to fix small blank spots.
I agree with not using washes on small miniatrues like these. More so it's better to use colors that are a bit brighter than you would normally use to help them pop. I've painted 6mm and 15mm and endured painting some 2mm so I'm not scared of small models. My question is what does 10mm bring to the table that you can't get using 6mm or 15mm?
Blue facings are reserved for the handful of Royal Regiments. The more common colors are Yellow and Green facings.
@Andrew McGuire A dark Prussian blue is more closer to the Royal regiments facings. Indeed they did use those colors as well. I have a book with all the facing colors of every British regiment that saw service during the period. Even has information on the Hessian regiments as well.
My style! I lack the talent to go for shading and blending on figures I can hardly see
Well, i wish I had watched this when I started my AWI stuff. Instead I primed white and used light tone to wash and i wasn't happy with results. Not going back to paint 550 figures again though.
Hi, I know I am out of topic in this specific video but any chance you would be planning a battle of the bulge episode? I recently watched a documentary on netflix and the logistics aspects on this battle are extremely interesting and I think could be fun to play and watch as the dday episode was. For what is worth I really like the format you gave to this channel and you guys are a blast!
We've certainly talked about it and the Bulge is on our radar!
How do you get the paint to mix while still in the bottle. I just got some vallejo but no matter how long and hard I shake it, it still comes out pigment and fluid separate.
Fwiw I use a nail varnish shaker and have put small ball bearings in the paint bottles.
Hey Greg and gang. Since you go very elaborate maps with lots of details and over different seasons, have you got an opinion on bases of clear plastic?
Some of our minis in the club are on clear bases! Particularly our ships for naval gaming!
Greg, would you use this same technique for WW2? I just got some 12mm Victrix Soviet & German infantry and I wonder if the "clean" look you demonstrate here would still work for WW2 uniforms. Or would washes work in this case?
Either style works for WW2. I do use this same method on my 15mm WW2. They pop and look very sharp. I find washes tend to muddle the paint job and make my figures look dirty. I like washes on medieval armor and on tanks.
curious @ 10mm scale - what does a single soldier model represent --
If I'm using 6mm Baucus figures and a 1 inch base, how many figures per base would you recommend? Would you do two rows?
i think 2 rows of infantry are a must with 6mm.
I only ever make a single row of cavalry.
heyaa i want to ask if there is a guide for how to make your own wargame scenario. i honestly try to do it but i dont know where to start. i usually just playing with certain amount of balanced point and a random terrain here and there. i wish someone can help me on this
We have a great podcast episode, over an hour long, called "How to Design Historical Wargame Scenarios" that will be most useful. It's available under Little Wars FM on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Podbean, etc. Free!
@@LittleWarsTV i have another question. how you guys choose how much army to field. cause usually you only have broad number from history book and how to translate it into miniature? and its cool i listen to the podcast! and its really interesting how you try to make a good challenge !
can you recommend war game rules for 7 yrs war simple ones lol>love your vlogs
Do you prefer army painter or citadel paints? Or a third option?
Vallejo is fantastic, and is far cheaper than citadel. I personally like it more than army painter because I generally dont have to fuss with thinning paints.
The short answer is that I personally use Army Painter, Citadel, & Vallejo for my minis and I use a cheap craft paint called FolkArt for my basing and terrain projects. I grew up on Citadel but over time it has become the brand I use least often (don't like the new style of paint pots and because they don't seal as well the paints dry out over time). Most of my minis are now done with Army Painter and Vallejo (more affordable, better seal on the bottles, thicker paint consistency). Totally a matter of personal preference and habit, though. They all work!
Ordering from UK, about how slow is the shipping time? That'll make a difference in how much I order at one time...
There are some delays in certain areas at the moment but 10-14 days should be about right for packages to the States.
@@pendrakenYT I'm just curious if my Pendraken order is normal, or if I went a little overboard. :-)
@@hangarflying All orders are normal! Big armies, little armies, as long as you're enjoying yourself. What was your order number?
How close is this 10mm technique to your 6mm painting technique?
Extremely. In 6mm I start with the black primer, do a dark gray highlight, and proceed to pick out the details in the same block painting style. No inks or washes. The only big difference in 6mm is that you can get away with even less detail work.
no varnish?
He's all bundled up indoors. Did he set his thermostat low or he's just a cool guy?
what trees do you use?
Woodland Scenics!
Where do you get your 10mm AWI buildings?
For Trenton, they are actually 6mm buildings from Leven. We also have a very extensive collection of 6mm Total Battle Miniatures buildings. For our 15/10mm games we scale down to 6mm buildings from both of these companies.
@@LittleWarsTV
Thanks, was looking for 10mm buildings for AWI and was not finding much variety. Took a look at Leven and wow! Lots of variety and 6mm prices are better than 10mm prices. Your Trenton looked great! Did really even noticed that the buildings were a smaller scale. How many building did it take to make your Trenton look that good? Also did you use two of the one building in the ACW line to make the Barracks?
Thanks
What are your views on Crossfire? Do you guys play it anymore?
Crossfire--we love it and play it! One of the best WW2 games ever written and it still holds up today, decades later. The movement system alone is brilliantly innovative.
Any final coat of matte varnish?
I rarely top coat any of my figures, especially when they have bases for players to pick up and grab. For individually based models where I know players will certainly grab the model, I use a brush on, matte top coat!
@@LittleWarsTV I have found the Liquitex varnish to be very durable and easy to brush on whereas spray varnish is fine for looks but not nearly as protective. I am trying to avoid grabbing any figures by making movement trays which simplifies things considerably. Thanks to your Live Free or Die rules I have finally nailed down a simplified set of rules for Napoleonics in 1/72.
NOW THE REAL QUESTION! How does everyone store 10-15mm minis?? I'm new into this scale, picked up epic ACW, and my lord it's a lot of models
Metal bases stored in ‘Really Useful’ boxes with magnetic sheet place in the bottom . For 10mm I use MDF trays.
Pretty much the opposite to Andrew Shaw.
16" square Pizza boxes with a square of 0.8mm mild steel fixed to the bottom.
Magnetic based figures stuck down inside.
Still waiting on some 30 years war or 2mm painting using the beautiful irregular miniatures.
Yeah some thirty years war, English civil war or war of Spanish succession is something I am also waiting on
These are not periods we have many figures for in the club, although one club member did recently finish painting 2mm Thirty Year War armies....
@@LittleWarsTV that's not surprising also considering most usually go for Napoleonics, American revolution, world wars or medieval
@@LittleWarsTV Perry miniatures has a nice 28mm 100 years war range
I am a glutton for punishment and I wash and highlight my 15mm. I’ve not dabbled in 10mm. This doesn’t help my miniature addiction. Lol. I assume 15mm terrain will work with 10mm miniatures?
We've used both 6mm and 15mm terrain with 10mm figures. The only 15mm terrain that I think looks way off visually would be buildings. We always use buildings 1 or even 2 scales down from our figures. But hills, trees, rivers, etc can all be bigger and still look great
@@LittleWarsTV great, and now I’m at Pendraken’s site. 🤪
I did washes on my 10mm WW2, but drab is sort of right for them! I probably won't for my 10mm ECW
@@tommckinnell2001 yes, I think it’s great for a dirty, drab look.
You paint 10mm the same way I paint 15mm figures.
This is also how I paint 15mm, too. The Pendrakens have about as much detail as your average 15mm figure, so the same techniques work really well
So many heresies in a 8 minutes video... 😄
Greg, it feels like this was sponsored by Pendraken and Army Painter but you’re intentionally trying to avoid saying that. It’s a good tutorial but if it has paid promotional content just go ahead make that clear.
When we have paid promotional content or are trying to sell you something, you'll know it. We received precisely $0 for this video--heck, we even opted, voluntarily, to not enable TH-cam ads on it (a decision we make for 75% of our videos). The 10mm winter armies for Brandywine were purchased from Pendraken's online webstore at full retail value. We did get a deal on the Army Painter starter set...from Amazon. It was 10% off. Most of the time when we use products on the channel its just because we like them and use them ourselves in the club.
@@LittleWarsTV Thanks for taking the time to reply!
black primer and brush primer to boot, Yuck! grey spray primer way better
I know, I know. We brush priming advocates are a minority.....
@@LittleWarsTV I think grey or black depends on what colors you are going to paint over them. I feel Grey is better for white for example, In the winter brush priming may be the way to go.
I would be really interested in a Little Wars TV "starter box" (like the Tinderbox) for Live Free or Die. *hint*hint*