Green would have been common in Saxon England. It's made from nettles. Madder would have been used too. It ranges red to red-brown. I mix Pure Red with Vallejo mud brown for Roman Tunics. It works great. I base after the figure is painted. Apply glue then dip in sand from your local hardware store a 5 pound bag lasts a long time. When dry use Min-Wax Acrylic stain to tint the sand. A quart of the stain will last for thousands of figures. I use a watered down batch to wash the figures.
The tutorial content has been outstanding. I’m really just getting started in this hobby (at 50+) and I have a lot to learn. Also good to see someone else basing on fender washers!
I love 1” fender washers. Sometimes they feel & smell a little oily right out of the box so I wash them in warm soapy water (with the sink drain securely plugged) and dry them before any glue and paint goes on.
This is exactly how you should paint miniatures for wargaming. Superb Video! If I may add, it's a good idea to change your water after working with metal paints.
I have been in the hobby for around 40 years this is the best video I've ever seen for beginners, I give free classes at my local store for adults and at some libraries for kids (at these I supply the mini's for the kids) I fully intend to let my aspiring mini painters your info and site so they have a reference to go to. 🙏😇🇺🇸
Great resource. Painting for competition gets a lot of attention, but painting larger numbers of figures to field units in games really has to be approached as a different process that’s all about getting the job done. That figure doesn’t need 5 layers of blended highlights on his boot laces, he needs those 5 companions to join him in battle ASAP.
Great video. Being a Brit. I have used dried tea leaves for scenic scatter. Dry they slowly in the sun - if you put them in the oven you get a hard crust surrounding wet leaves. Herbal teas come in a variety of colours if you know anyone who drinks it. Sawdust brushed up from the bench is another possibility. I always wash my figures in washing up liquid before painting to remove any grease and especially moulding release agents on plastics.
Good job! One of the best videos introducing painting I've ever seen. Shields are a tough one, but I found a tool to help be apply designs/devices: Gel ink pens. I use Gelly Roll pens from Michael's Crafts (and they are, as the Brits say, "as cheap as chips"), but there are others out there. It's easier to control a pen than a brush. The darker colors tend to work better, but I have used red to draw a design on a Viking shield. They also have useful metallic pens and I use these often. They're especially great for buttons and other spots where you just need a dot of paint. I've also used the white and black ink Gellys for painting stripes and belts. Dave Smith
Nicely done Greg. A really good painting guide using accessible paints and washes and not too much “additional” stuff. Paint, wash, highlight, job done.
Great intro series - I wish this had been around when I first got started in the hobby. It would have saved me a ton of time and given me a boost out of the gate.
greg I 100% agree re the painting. I remember a few years back my mate bought his 14 year old neighbours son to our club. I'm a school teacher. We did fire and fury. I explained the rules to hi and he had a really good time. At the end i pointed out with my phone that there were lots of acw plastic available, cheap and easy - i encouraged him to get into wargames via 1/72 plastics like I did when I was a kid. What put him off was the painting. Really intimidated. I tried to explain washing, dry brushing but no. But loads of these kids paint warhammer figs
Very goid video of excellent set. I like this lind of historical games, but I'm not able to learn and remember the rules, somehow. So I see it as a new hope for me.🤭 It was also very refreshing to see painting basics in action and quite decent redult of it in the sea of highly professional masterpieces everywhere around. Thank you very much for your great job.🙏👍
Outstanding work Greg! This is another high quality production that enhances the "Intro to War-Gaming". you guys are really advancing the hobby and that is huge. Thank you for all that you and the fellas are doing.
Great to hear Travis! Lots of good tips in here for beginners like yourself who are getting started. Learning to paint is a lot of fun and quite rewarding
Another really great tutorial. Great advice on shields and washes especially. Though I was surprised on the order you painted various parts. I always paint inside out. I would love to hear more on the thought process that leads you to paint outside in.
Thank you so much! I got some 1:2400 naval miniatures after that awesome Guadalcanal episode you made. But I tried using spray paint primer and it balled up on the models like sandpaper. It's was really demoralizing and I sorta gave up. But this video makes me want to give it another go!
You can safely strip the primer off of your miniatures by soaking them over night in Purple Power degreasing liquid (available at Auto Zone stores), then rinsing in water and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush. I used this method to successfully remove 30-yr. old enamel paints from a model kit without harming the plastic underneath, but be sure to wear eye protection when doing it.
Yeah, spray paint is notoriously sensitive towards humidity. If the air's too dry the droplets of paint will dry up mid flight and you'll end up with that sandpaper effect. That said you can probably easily wash your paint with isopropyl alcohol or nail polish remover (without acetone). You can use acetone for instant gratification but if your models are plastic or resin you'll melt them. I'm assuming 1:2400 naval minis are metal so acetone should be safe.
@@KiddoButai I used it to paint some Flames of War miniatures awhile back and had no problems with it. So I just assumed it would be fine. Did not realize it was so fickle! The ships I got were from GHQ, so I believe they are pewter. They were kinda shiny and metallic looking, certainly not plastic or resin. Would this work with the acetone?
@@111111310 Yeah, I've stripped paint of GHQ models with acetone and had zero issues. You should be fine. I've heard good things about Purple Power too but I don't think it's available in my neck of the woods so I don't have any first hand experience.
Neat video Greg, great guide for beginners. I also liked how you made a few comments about alternative strategies. For example, I always start with flesh and paint "from the inside out". Ultimately it's about finding a style that works for each gamer and having fun with the process rather than sticking religiously to a format. Your advice was therefore a very realistic and common sense approach. Thanks as always for everything you guys do for the hobby!
I've used a somewhat simpler basing option. For the actual basing, I tend to use superglue and sand rather than white glue or other options to attach it, but that's up to you there. First step is that I don't prime the mini in black, I prefer a grey for anything with a mix of metals and natural parts, it also allows some easier options. If you go with black, go over the basing with a middle grey first...more work, but still rather easy. Okay, then for actually painting it, I use thinned acryllic inks from the craft store...using their weekly coupons. I use two inks, the first is a Burnt Umber and the second is a Black. I water each down about 3 parts water to 1 part ink for the brown and 5 parts water to 1 part ink for the black. First step is to go over the sand with the brown, it flows in easily and works great for covering it...don't hold the mini upside down when doing it if you've already painted it, this can run a little bit. After each ink, touch the underside of the mini to some paper towel to make sure that you don't have any ink on the underside. When the first ink dries, then you use the black, it tends to sink in and create a nice look. Let it dry From there, I have two things, the first is to add your other basing material and then use some polyeurethane gloss to create a muddy look, go a bit heavier and you can get some decent water effects...not something I've used for my vikings, but I've done it for some animals. The other is to take a ivory or parchment color and go with a light drybrush...and it's done save for flocking materials. For other flocking, one thing that I've done that's extremely cheap is to find the really cheap brushes from the hardware store. Look for the ones that have natural bristles and are cheap...they ought to be stiffer as well. Basically put a dab of gel superglue on the base where you want tall grass or reeds, then, quickly, clip a small bunch from the bristles and push the end in place and hold for a few seconds as it hardens in place enough to stay...you then have a few seconds to spread them a little bit before they lock, entirely in place...I then take a fine flock and sprinkle around the base of it because it tends to help blend it in. If you're using the swampy bases, sprinkle a tiny bit of the fine flock ontop of the polyeurethane while it is still wet and add a thin layer on top once the initial layer dries and you get a more algae look like older ponds.
I use my airbrush to prime all my miniatures with Vallejo primer. I also build scale model kits so I made the initial investment in a decent cheap airbrush kit from Hobby Lobby and it was worth every penny.
Little Wars TV, I ran into you folks by chance. I never even knew your channel existed. **You need better Media Advertisement** but that said, I am so glad I found you folks. I am feeding this directly into **The Vault** Discord Wargaming Server for our membership. Great videos guys. Please keep the vid's coming, this is a real gold mine for our membership and for that matter, myself as an old time wargamer. If there is anything else I can do for you folks, please just let me know.
Couple things when I learned this from Art School the price of perfection is prohibitive what does that mean don't worry about getting something perfect on your first miniature everybody has a first miniature if it looks a little sloppy that's fine it's your first miniature too and I'm surprised he didn't talk about this thin your paints when applying your pants do not apply them straight out of the pot you would have put them on a pallet and add a little bit of water to thin your paints ideally your paint should flow like 2% milk thirdly use biggar brushes don't use teeny tiny little brushes to paint everything what I use when I'm painting is an army painter regimental brush it's about $7 that's a little high a cost but it's a good brush you can also ideally go to places like Hobby Lobby or HobbyTown to get brushes you want a good regiment brush to do most of your work look for like a a size 1 or 2 then a smaller brush like a zero to do your detail work and finally he talked briefly about dry brushing dry brushing is something you're going to use no matter if you're beginning painter or Master Level painter you always use dry brushing there's a million videos online about how to do it and I can make your Miniatures look amazing
I am by no means talented with anything related to drawing, painting or something similar. But I have to say: Painting a viking so you can use him on a tabletop sounds pretty cool...
Do you prime with regular acrylic black paint or is there a special type of paint for priming, i know it's a noob question but im just starting with the hobby
Try edging the swords with something like Citadel Necron Compound to really make them pop. Just run along the edge of the sword with the edge of your brush and they will look sharp enough to cut as the light glints on the highlight. Vallejo have some wonderful metallic paints you can get a great set for under £20 which will give you 8 shades of metal. Finally I would get a spray can of Army Painter varnish either matt or satin to finish if you are going to be handling the models a lot in play for instance or you will soon wear away your paint job. By the way not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs just sharing a couple of hints I wish I had known when I started.
For you beginners, Apple Barrel, Americana and Folk art paints work perfectly for miniatures once watered down a bit, anywhere from 50 cents to 2 dollars per tube, about 4 times more paint than a 5 dollar citadel pot
Absolutely! I still use FolkArt for basing, terrain, and sometimes on my minis. But for the first couple years I painted figures, 80% of my paints were cheap $1 tubes of FolkArt. Of course, with inflation these days the $1 tubes are now $2. Still a deal compared to Citadel.
Gregg were you a park ranger at Gettysburg when you were 22 years old? I found an old video on the 83 New York volunteer TH-cam channel and the park ranger sounds a lot like you. Thank you for your attention. Scot.
Nice soundtrack for this one! Also, and I know this is just me being picky, but the only people who used the tag "Dane" for Vikingr were the poor damn monks the raiders routinely ripped off with extreme violence. Any Scandinavian ship captain back then was just going to take whichever violent nere-do-well he could get his hands on, Norse, Dansk or Svenska. Even Geates, Lats and other such Balts at a pinch. So a ship-crew would likely be a hugely mixed bunch of violent thugs.
Just prime with a can you dont lose any control just read the instructions. And take your time. I have never lost detail when using a can of spray paint. And never paint straight from the pot.
I absolutely hate painting miniatures, but this tutorial was helpful. I wish miniatures would just come pre-painted (yes I realize you could pay someone to do this but that's expensive).
I personally don't know but an amazing primer is rustoleum flat black primer spray its half the price of the main wargaming brands and works 10 times better
@@historypunkwargames4760 yeah, I use that I think. The 2x stuff, paint+primer, bout 4$ a can right? Anyway, it rains alot here, and sometimes I just don't feel like going out. I want an indoor brush option.
Rustoleum flat black is a great primer if you’re comfortable using spray paint. when brushing on a black base by hand I just use black Gesso. It’s cheap, comes in a large tub, and has excellent coverage.
Black Gesso is a great primer. It provides terrific adhesion. If mixed 50:50 with matte medium it is resilient enough to be left uncovered for black leather bits.
A great question, honestly! I got them from a friend who had a big box of random metal Vikings. Some of the stuff is Foundry for sure, but there were clearly multiple manufacturers in the collection. He had hundreds of unpainted figures in a bin and I scooped out two dozen of them for my first two warbands.
Hey, thanks for the reply! I know plastics are all the rage right now but I'm not a fan of the assembly. With the Old Glory Army discount I could get some warbands at a decent price though. Probably not Foundry quality, but most certainly table worthy.
I wash my minis first. Otherwise my technique is identical. Glad you discouraged the use of spray primers. They catch all the dust in the air and you will see it in the model.
I'm afraid you're incorrect about the purple. it was incredibly expensive at this time. so pricy in fact, it was oft considered reserved for roman Emperors
I have to say, I see so many wellpainted models which are made dark, dirty and almost ugly with wash. Sure, it may be personal taste. But you did a well job and after applying the wash it lost much of it's "precision".
Green would have been common in Saxon England. It's made from nettles. Madder would have been used too. It ranges red to red-brown. I mix Pure Red with Vallejo mud brown for Roman Tunics. It works great. I base after the figure is painted. Apply glue then dip in sand from your local hardware store a 5 pound bag lasts a long time. When dry use Min-Wax Acrylic stain to tint the sand. A quart of the stain will last for thousands of figures. I use a watered down batch to wash the figures.
Excellent tips!
The tutorial content has been outstanding. I’m really just getting started in this hobby (at 50+) and I have a lot to learn. Also good to see someone else basing on fender washers!
Washers are the best! You can use magnetic sheets in your troop boxes for easy transport and the figures don’t slide around!
I love 1” fender washers. Sometimes they feel & smell a little oily right out of the box so I wash them in warm soapy water (with the sink drain securely plugged) and dry them before any glue and paint goes on.
This is exactly how you should paint miniatures for wargaming. Superb Video!
If I may add, it's a good idea to change your water after working with metal paints.
I have been in the hobby for around 40 years this is the best video I've ever seen for beginners, I give free classes at my local store for adults and at some libraries for kids (at these I supply the mini's for the kids) I fully intend to let my aspiring mini painters your info and site so they have a reference to go to. 🙏😇🇺🇸
You are one of those unsung heroes keeping this hobby moving forward
Great resource. Painting for competition gets a lot of attention, but painting larger numbers of figures to field units in games really has to be approached as a different process that’s all about getting the job done. That figure doesn’t need 5 layers of blended highlights on his boot laces, he needs those 5 companions to join him in battle ASAP.
Great video. Being a Brit. I have used dried tea leaves for scenic scatter. Dry they slowly in the sun - if you put them in the oven you get a hard crust surrounding wet leaves. Herbal teas come in a variety of colours if you know anyone who drinks it. Sawdust brushed up from the bench is another possibility. I always wash my figures in washing up liquid before painting to remove any grease and especially moulding release agents on plastics.
Good job! One of the best videos introducing painting I've ever seen.
Shields are a tough one, but I found a tool to help be apply designs/devices: Gel ink pens. I use Gelly Roll pens from Michael's Crafts (and they are, as the Brits say, "as cheap as chips"), but there are others out there. It's easier to control a pen than a brush. The darker colors tend to work better, but I have used red to draw a design on a Viking shield. They also have useful metallic pens and I use these often. They're especially great for buttons and other spots where you just need a dot of paint. I've also used the white and black ink Gellys for painting stripes and belts.
Dave Smith
Nicely done Greg. A really good painting guide using accessible paints and washes and not too much “additional” stuff. Paint, wash, highlight, job done.
You guys are the best, loving the ravenfeast content. Thank you for creating this awesome freebie. I’m building my forces and can’t wait to play
Great intro series - I wish this had been around when I first got started in the hobby. It would have saved me a ton of time and given me a boost out of the gate.
Excellent tutorial. I've seen a lot of these techniques in other videos before but the explanations here are very clear and the camera work is great.
Very very useful advice, well done. [Franco 56, 50 years in the hobby]
greg I 100% agree re the painting. I remember a few years back my mate bought his 14 year old neighbours son to our club. I'm a school teacher. We did fire and fury. I explained the rules to hi and he had a really good time. At the end i pointed out with my phone that there were lots of acw plastic available, cheap and easy - i encouraged him to get into wargames via 1/72 plastics like I did when I was a kid. What put him off was the painting. Really intimidated. I tried to explain washing, dry brushing but no. But loads of these kids paint warhammer figs
I love seeing these Viking Age miniatures and maps.
Great video chaps, well produced and a good intro to painting for the newcomers.
Also, that red paint is amazing to go on black like that!
Great Painting demo thanks. I'll show this to new Players.
Very goid video of excellent set. I like this lind of historical games, but I'm not able to learn and remember the rules, somehow. So I see it as a new hope for me.🤭 It was also very refreshing to see painting basics in action and quite decent redult of it in the sea of highly professional masterpieces everywhere around. Thank you very much for your great job.🙏👍
Excellent starter video. My son in law is learning to paint miniatures and I think this vid will really help him get started.
Nicely done, this is a well done introduction to this vital part of the hobby.
Nice video my been paint for years but really enjoy you informative laid back style wonderful watching sir🙂👍
Outstanding work Greg! This is another high quality production that enhances the "Intro to War-Gaming". you guys are really advancing the hobby and that is huge. Thank you for all that you and the fellas are doing.
I found this very helpful, simple and straightforward. A great vid for beginners (me). I look forward to watching more
Great to hear Travis! Lots of good tips in here for beginners like yourself who are getting started. Learning to paint is a lot of fun and quite rewarding
Another really great tutorial. Great advice on shields and washes especially. Though I was surprised on the order you painted various parts. I always paint inside out. I would love to hear more on the thought process that leads you to paint outside in.
Nicely done tutorial.
Really good video, well thought-out and great timings, will be of real use to new people getting into the hobby.
Thank you so much! I got some 1:2400 naval miniatures after that awesome Guadalcanal episode you made. But I tried using spray paint primer and it balled up on the models like sandpaper. It's was really demoralizing and I sorta gave up. But this video makes me want to give it another go!
You can safely strip the primer off of your miniatures by soaking them over night in Purple Power degreasing liquid (available at Auto Zone stores), then rinsing in water and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush. I used this method to successfully remove 30-yr. old enamel paints from a model kit without harming the plastic underneath, but be sure to wear eye protection when doing it.
@@richardklug822 I'll have to give this a try! Thank you for the help.
Yeah, spray paint is notoriously sensitive towards humidity. If the air's too dry the droplets of paint will dry up mid flight and you'll end up with that sandpaper effect. That said you can probably easily wash your paint with isopropyl alcohol or nail polish remover (without acetone). You can use acetone for instant gratification but if your models are plastic or resin you'll melt them. I'm assuming 1:2400 naval minis are metal so acetone should be safe.
@@KiddoButai I used it to paint some Flames of War miniatures awhile back and had no problems with it. So I just assumed it would be fine. Did not realize it was so fickle! The ships I got were from GHQ, so I believe they are pewter. They were kinda shiny and metallic looking, certainly not plastic or resin. Would this work with the acetone?
@@111111310 Yeah, I've stripped paint of GHQ models with acetone and had zero issues. You should be fine. I've heard good things about Purple Power too but I don't think it's available in my neck of the woods so I don't have any first hand experience.
Another great tutorial. Well done!
i gotta say i love your videos and i say please post more painting tutorials ! especially with brushes!
Thank you! Will do!
Neat video Greg, great guide for beginners. I also liked how you made a few comments about alternative strategies. For example, I always start with flesh and paint "from the inside out". Ultimately it's about finding a style that works for each gamer and having fun with the process rather than sticking religiously to a format. Your advice was therefore a very realistic and common sense approach. Thanks as always for everything you guys do for the hobby!
Thanks! Most painters seem to prefer your inside out approach to faces and flesh tones!
Fantastic video Greg. Good for all experience levels.
Nice tips by Odin!
Very nice tutorial!!
Not a war gamer I love to pant miniatures, you did a great job 👏
I've used a somewhat simpler basing option. For the actual basing, I tend to use superglue and sand rather than white glue or other options to attach it, but that's up to you there.
First step is that I don't prime the mini in black, I prefer a grey for anything with a mix of metals and natural parts, it also allows some easier options. If you go with black, go over the basing with a middle grey first...more work, but still rather easy.
Okay, then for actually painting it, I use thinned acryllic inks from the craft store...using their weekly coupons. I use two inks, the first is a Burnt Umber and the second is a Black. I water each down about 3 parts water to 1 part ink for the brown and 5 parts water to 1 part ink for the black. First step is to go over the sand with the brown, it flows in easily and works great for covering it...don't hold the mini upside down when doing it if you've already painted it, this can run a little bit. After each ink, touch the underside of the mini to some paper towel to make sure that you don't have any ink on the underside. When the first ink dries, then you use the black, it tends to sink in and create a nice look. Let it dry
From there, I have two things, the first is to add your other basing material and then use some polyeurethane gloss to create a muddy look, go a bit heavier and you can get some decent water effects...not something I've used for my vikings, but I've done it for some animals.
The other is to take a ivory or parchment color and go with a light drybrush...and it's done save for flocking materials.
For other flocking, one thing that I've done that's extremely cheap is to find the really cheap brushes from the hardware store. Look for the ones that have natural bristles and are cheap...they ought to be stiffer as well. Basically put a dab of gel superglue on the base where you want tall grass or reeds, then, quickly, clip a small bunch from the bristles and push the end in place and hold for a few seconds as it hardens in place enough to stay...you then have a few seconds to spread them a little bit before they lock, entirely in place...I then take a fine flock and sprinkle around the base of it because it tends to help blend it in.
If you're using the swampy bases, sprinkle a tiny bit of the fine flock ontop of the polyeurethane while it is still wet and add a thin layer on top once the initial layer dries and you get a more algae look like older ponds.
I'm lovin' this series gents please keep it up.
A few more to come!
Awesome painting and tutorial thanks Greg
I use my airbrush to prime all my miniatures with Vallejo primer. I also build scale model kits so I made the initial investment in a decent cheap airbrush kit from Hobby Lobby and it was worth every penny.
Great clear instructions…👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Very nice stuff. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Another great video don’t forget if you paint old style plastic figures you need to use Krylon spray paint first
great show
So cool that you DHL delivery drivers have joined the mini wargaming world! :)
Little Wars TV, I ran into you folks by chance. I never even knew your channel existed. **You need better Media Advertisement** but that said, I am so glad I found you folks.
I am feeding this directly into **The Vault** Discord Wargaming Server for our membership.
Great videos guys. Please keep the vid's coming, this is a real gold mine for our membership and for that matter, myself as an old time wargamer.
If there is anything else I can do for you folks, please just let me know.
Thanks, Martin! We are always looking for new ways to reach gamers, but it's a fragmented audience and not the easiest bunch to reach!
Excellent tutorial indeed . Congratulations from a new subscriber .
Awesome, thank you!
@@LittleWarsTV you are welcome !
Couple things when I learned this from Art School the price of perfection is prohibitive what does that mean don't worry about getting something perfect on your first miniature everybody has a first miniature if it looks a little sloppy that's fine it's your first miniature too and I'm surprised he didn't talk about this thin your paints when applying your pants do not apply them straight out of the pot you would have put them on a pallet and add a little bit of water to thin your paints ideally your paint should flow like 2% milk thirdly use biggar brushes don't use teeny tiny little brushes to paint everything what I use when I'm painting is an army painter regimental brush it's about $7 that's a little high a cost but it's a good brush you can also ideally go to places like Hobby Lobby or HobbyTown to get brushes you want a good regiment brush to do most of your work look for like a a size 1 or 2 then a smaller brush like a zero to do your detail work and finally he talked briefly about dry brushing dry brushing is something you're going to use no matter if you're beginning painter or Master Level painter you always use dry brushing there's a million videos online about how to do it and I can make your Miniatures look amazing
Best wargaming channel on youtube. Very underrated. But hopefully not for much longer.
Very interesting...looks awesome
With metal models I almost always use hand primer I find it more consistent
Great Tutorial! Solid technique. I didn't see you seal the miniature, but still great stuff.
I seal my figures about half of the time, but it is a good practice!
@@LittleWarsTV What do you like to use. I use a 1 part water 2 part Future floor wax. I also add a drop of black for shading.
Great video as always, keep up the good work!
Thank u mate. Outstsnding
This is superb
Nice guide!
Pretty good video, thanks
Very good
great tutorial!
I am by no means talented with anything related to drawing, painting or something similar. But I have to say: Painting a viking so you can use him on a tabletop sounds pretty cool...
I shoot mine after painting with matt clear, to protect them during handling.
Does anyone know where he got the metal saxon from ? Cant seem to find it anywhere haha ! Its a lovely sculpt :)
Thank you
Footsore and Gripping Beast make the best sculpes for Vikings.
Both are truly outstanding. For plastics, Victrix is right up there too!
Do you prime with regular acrylic black paint or is there a special type of paint for priming, i know it's a noob question but im just starting with the hobby
Try edging the swords with something like Citadel Necron Compound to really make them pop. Just run along the edge of the sword with the edge of your brush and they will look sharp enough to cut as the light glints on the highlight.
Vallejo have some wonderful metallic paints you can get a great set for under £20 which will give you 8 shades of metal.
Finally I would get a spray can of Army Painter varnish either matt or satin to finish if you are going to be handling the models a lot in play for instance or you will soon wear away your paint job.
By the way not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs just sharing a couple of hints I wish I had known when I started.
Been wanting to use washers as bases on most of my growing 28mm. Are those washers the 1/8” thick variety???
For you beginners, Apple Barrel, Americana and Folk art paints work perfectly for miniatures once watered down a bit, anywhere from 50 cents to 2 dollars per tube, about 4 times more paint than a 5 dollar citadel pot
Absolutely! I still use FolkArt for basing, terrain, and sometimes on my minis. But for the first couple years I painted figures, 80% of my paints were cheap $1 tubes of FolkArt. Of course, with inflation these days the $1 tubes are now $2. Still a deal compared to Citadel.
Great video,,, Go ND
About how tall are they? 2 inches? Oh btw don Featherstone would-be proud of your channels name!
I just printed out the rules and was wondering where can I get these figures? Thank you in advance
You wanna know the best thing about painting 28mm figures? There are twenty of them! 🤣🔬
I've actually 109 of them to paint 😅
What colour have you used for tunic and pants?
Great tutorial what colour did you use for the tunic?
That is a Citadel paint, Mephiston Red!
@@LittleWarsTV thanks very much
Gregg were you a park ranger at Gettysburg when you were 22 years old? I found an old video on the 83 New York volunteer TH-cam channel and the park ranger sounds a lot like you. Thank you for your attention. Scot.
Nice soundtrack for this one! Also, and I know this is just me being picky, but the only people who used the tag "Dane" for Vikingr were the poor damn monks the raiders routinely ripped off with extreme violence. Any Scandinavian ship captain back then was just going to take whichever violent nere-do-well he could get his hands on, Norse, Dansk or Svenska. Even Geates, Lats and other such Balts at a pinch. So a ship-crew would likely be a hugely mixed bunch of violent thugs.
Are these the Gripping Beast Miniatures?
Just prime with a can you dont lose any control just read the instructions. And take your time. I have never lost detail when using a can of spray paint. And never paint straight from the pot.
If you get a little extra paint on from the can you can use a dry brush to do a little cleanup.
I absolutely hate painting miniatures, but this tutorial was helpful. I wish miniatures would just come pre-painted (yes I realize you could pay someone to do this but that's expensive).
where did you get the lamp?
One thing. Buy VERY good brushes. It's more than worth the expense to have a couple of good sable brushes. A 0, #3 are the sizes I use most.
Excellent and very helpful. I do wish you would cut out the background music though.
So sorry but what manufacture is that?
the metal was ironbreaker¿?
Yeah that was fun . But I still can't use washes
I use 1 and 2 pennies to base all my figures . Very cheap
Hey Greg, what kind of black paint did you use for your primer?
I personally don't know but an amazing primer is rustoleum flat black primer spray its half the price of the main wargaming brands and works 10 times better
@@historypunkwargames4760 yeah, I use that I think. The 2x stuff, paint+primer, bout 4$ a can right?
Anyway, it rains alot here, and sometimes I just don't feel like going out. I want an indoor brush option.
Rustoleum flat black is a great primer if you’re comfortable using spray paint. when brushing on a black base by hand I just use black Gesso. It’s cheap, comes in a large tub, and has excellent coverage.
Black Gesso is a great primer. It provides terrific adhesion. If mixed 50:50 with matte medium it is resilient enough to be left uncovered for black leather bits.
@@LittleWarsTV thank you! 😁
Anybody know the brand of figures used in the video?
A great question, honestly! I got them from a friend who had a big box of random metal Vikings. Some of the stuff is Foundry for sure, but there were clearly multiple manufacturers in the collection. He had hundreds of unpainted figures in a bin and I scooped out two dozen of them for my first two warbands.
Hey, thanks for the reply! I know plastics are all the rage right now but I'm not a fan of the assembly. With the Old Glory Army discount I could get some warbands at a decent price though. Probably not Foundry quality, but most certainly table worthy.
You missed the cleaning the mold release off the model before priming. But, good painting tutorial.
I wash my minis first. Otherwise my technique is identical. Glad you discouraged the use of spray primers. They catch all the dust in the air and you will see it in the model.
I'm afraid you're incorrect about the purple. it was incredibly expensive at this time. so pricy in fact, it was oft considered reserved for roman Emperors
Perhaps the cheapest thing you can use to base your figures is pennies, only 1p each!
Aren't those a little small for 28mm? I'd think you'd have to splurge and spend a quarter. :-)
Funny I have had a airbrush for 30 years and hardly ever use it.
I have to say, I see so many wellpainted models which are made dark, dirty and almost ugly with wash. Sure, it may be personal taste. But you did a well job and after applying the wash it lost much of it's "precision".
Paint isn't primer! Use a paint on primer.