I love the explanations of why each step is done how it is, I watched a couple other videos on the subject which were very hard to follow, but this was perfectly laid out. Thank you!!
Today is my first time I install my own 105.. is not easy... it takes time and experience... gone cost u a bit much... but is good to learn about it and I love it. Thanks to park tool
Thanks for the video. I learned much from it, as I did for all of your videos so far. Thanks to you guys I have been able to flawlessly mount brake and shift cables many times on my hybrid and city bikes. But now I'm having some trouble mounting a compressionless housing. A few years back I got my first road bike, which now needs some new cables, so I decided to try out a compressionless brake cable kit for the first time. I started getting the length right as shown in the video - mostly using the old housing as a template - but due to the very high stiffness of the housing I can't for the life of me find a good length and routing. The housing is so stiff that it partly engages the brakes without touching the lever, bringing the pads closer to the rim. If I try to get it a bit shorter, then the handlebar won't be able to move freely and/or the housing will get too tight when I try pulling the brake lever, since dual-pivot calipers pull the housing a little bit when engaged. Do you have tips for compressionless housing? Has anyone here mounted this type of super stiff housing without impacting the calipers' or handlebar's movement?
I was literally SO confused by this when I first watched… I thought, am I going crazy or are the brakes the wrong way round? I didn’t realise there are different laws for different countries. In the UK, the front brake is always on the right hand side. Partly because of historical bike design and partly because of which side of the road we ride on. Learnt something new there… Left-hand/front brake still seems weird to me though. Especially as I also ride motorcycles…
I knew how to replace my cable but had no idea how to ask for the mushroom end, as opposed to the circular end, so, this video was still a big help. Thank you!
Thanks a lot, it helps me to change my brake housing after a stem/drop bar remplacement. The part on the housing lenght finding is the most usefull i fund on the web.
Absolutely amazing. You’ve thought of everything a noob like me should look for. Full disclaimer I’ve fitted a rear brake cable today and cut too short. I can turn my bike now…
Notice he's using what's known as strapping tape to tape the housing against the bars. Ordinary tape like electrical tape will stretch. When you apply the brakes, the cable wants to straighten out with great force. This will in turn make the housing want to straighten out, especially at the tight curve where the flat part of the bars curves forward. Stretchy tape will stretch here and the housing can move away from the bars. Strapping tape is a lot like a flat piece of shift housing with strands of fiber running length wise, preventing it from stretching.
Thank you so much for this video. Would you recommend to always replace the housing when replacing cables? Or could you reuse the same housing multiple times? Thanks!
Thank you Calvin- for your help and support, very well explained you made it look so easy.hieghly appreciated again well done /thank you /God bless you and the USA.
Beware when you buy shimano sets, there are 3 different quality ranges. I highly recommend to pay the extra 10 bucks and go mid. The cheapest are 4€ for the set but use a spiral cable. And no aluminium endcap and no small guiding ends on plastic endcaps. No coating whatsoever. The mid ones are 15€ a set and have the straight protective cables. Shimano calls this SUS. They come pre oiled and have protective caps and the metal end cap. OPTISCLICK and SIL TEC fall into this mid category. The high end ones are 30€ a pair. They are polymer coated instead of oiled.
@@parktool It's two years later, do you have such video now? I plan to change all my cables and housing (shifters+ brakes) on my shimano 105 (rim brakes). I would love a video to help also with the shifting cables.
Calvin, great video. I am looking at doing this as a winter project for my brakes and shifters. Do you know what style cable housing comes with the Shimano kit's? Also what's a rule of thumb for longevity on these cables, coated vs uncoated? Thanks
MUCH LOVE AND APPRECIATION TO YOU GUYS!! Thanks for your guidance to upgrade my SPECIALIZED "Langster" track bike for every element, except the saddle is still in good condition.. Also assisted me to correct my rear and front derailleurs on my 2nd bike my other love SPECIALIZED "Allez". I have learned A LOT of valuable information from you guys and your videos. Now I have all the proper tools and knowledge (from your videos), not necessary for the bike shop, unless absolutely required. ALTHOUGH....any ideas for the 2018 Allez, saddle post is not round (it is an OVAL shape), cannot twist, but it is seized. I've tried coca-cola, WD-40, heat/cool, pushing/pulling methods to loosen with no luck. Any other ideas? THANK YOU!!!
Is there room for it to go down? If so you may be able to use a mallet or hammer to impact it down just a small bit to break the corrosion up. Then pull it out. It may require a new seatpost. But at this point thats going to be a much better option than leaving it in the bike as it will only get tougher to get out. Good luck!
@@parktool my shifter is in the middle of the handlebar just above the frame 2 shifters 1 front 1 rear and my drop bar brake handle had sheared off not 1 not 2 all handles broke
Do you have a similar video for gear housing and cabling? I see in this video the gear cabling is also complete. I need one that shows the process for the gear cabling and housing
Excellent guide! One minor thing - I have read that often it is not necessary or even detrimental to oil the housing with modern liners as they are pre-lubricated, is this true? The reasoning that the oil helps keep out water does make sense but I can also imagine excess oil gumming things up over time
Pre-lubricated will be with a grease, and the lubricating part of grease is oil. If there is grease already inside the housing, oil would be meaningless.
Shimano housing and others come with grease already installed in the housing when new. After some time of use you will want to lube the housing and cable with your cable grease.
I have a 2021 Allez Elite with internally routed rear brake caliper that has a lot of friction when lever is pulled. When I disconnected cable I found the caliper and lever move smoothly and when connected I can hear cable rubbing housing inside top tube. Is there anything I can do to get rid of rubbing other than replacing rear cable and housing? Thanks.
You are looking for sweeping bends in the housing and the ability to turn the bars easily. Not too long, not too short. Goldilocks. This holds true for all cable and housing systems.
Quick help pls. Rear rim brake caliper does not return fully when sti lever is released. Do i need to just clean amd lube the brake cables and housing? And if i do, do i need to cut the cable at the crimp, or can i just loosen the pinch bolt?
Cleaning and lubricating the cable along with the pivot points of the brake is a great place to start and is typically the cause of the caliper not returning fully
Is there a video running cable thru older Shimano road bike brake shifters? Mine are no where near as easy to run your brake cable thru as the ones in this video.
There are positives and negatives. They can be noisy with the housing clanking against the frame and produce "clicky" sounds where individual links creak against each other.
This does vary a bit globally. in the USA and many areas of the world the left hand brae is front and the right hand brake is rear. In the UK and other countries you may run into the opposite.
If at all possible use brake housing for brakes and shift housing for shifters. You can use brake housing for shifters but it will result in vague shifting. Shift housing used for brakes is not a good idea and can lead to injury. The windings of the housing can blow out under the pressure and disable the brakes.
The so called "katydid" style lever have shift housing looping inward from each side. You want just enough length so the housing leaves the lever in a straight line as it arcs back to the frame housing stop. Hold it by hand next to housing stop and test it by turning the bars 90-degrees away from the lever are testing. It should not tug where you are holding it.
@@parktool so clear my one dilemma... if i am to convert the flat bar to a drop bar of a mtb....should i change the rd and fd? plus can i still use the disc brakes?? looking forward to your answer.
I cut my new housing to match the old housing, thinking that would be a shortcut. Anyone know why it fits as terribly as if I'd cut it for a completely different bike? Like not even close, now I'm lost.
Brake housing is a wound single cable wrapped around the liner. It is strong laterally, but it is also flexible. This means with index shifting, some of the push and the "click" is lost in the flex. It simply does not transfer the action at the shifter efficiency to the rear mechanism.
9:24 "Whenever an end cap can be used, it should be used." Always use an end cap where it will fit fully into the component. However, most modern drop bar levers do not accept an end cap.
What is the housing linke if you have CANE CREEK CANTIS with that extra 90 degree cable? Until where does the housing go and is there a normal pull to the housing to to the tension?? (Which I suppose is not normal but who knows how you tapped your housing?)
th-cam.com/video/FvFira2dAPY/w-d-xo.html Have you checked out this video yet? It might get you in the zone. The length of the cable housing is determined by where the stop is located on your bike. Some stops are build into the stem, others into the fork and still others are hung from a headset spacer. The goal is to have a nice smooth actuation which means that you should not have tight bends or huge curves. You are looking for that golilocks setup.
+Phil Hughes Always use an end cap where they fit fully into the component. For most modern drop bar levers, the bodies do not accept housing with the end cap. The sizing at the body is reduced for only the housing to fit. -Calvin
You can usually run a new cable without removing the tape. It can be difficult on some of the newer systems but is possible. You cannot run new housing without removing the tape though.
@@parktool it's a new bike never used ...wanted to take the bar off and put it on another bike and knew the cable may be to short but didn't want to go through getting new tape .
@@parktool Yeah, i've bought bike from decathlon and cables were poorly done, like not much aftgerthought about placement of the cable itself and inline barrel adjusters.
You are routing the cables incorrectly..the right front brake should be on the right ..this way the cable drops nearly to the cable adjuster without pointlessly crossing the front steerer. The left hand brake should go to the back brake which is where the adjuster is positioned..The Japanese ride on the left like the English and that is why they designed the brakes like they have ..You are using the incorrect French way ..
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Best cycle maintenance channel I have found. Excellent - thank you.
I love the explanations of why each step is done how it is, I watched a couple other videos on the subject which were very hard to follow, but this was perfectly laid out. Thank you!!
The simplest and most professional video about the correct installation of the changes and brakes. Thank you! greetings from Mexico!
You Sir Calvin will forever be a legend.
was struggling while changing my first brake levers and this video has taught me so much!
I love these educational videos. As a bike mecanic by total accident it's amazing how helpful these can be!
These are some of the best instructional videos I have found. So clear. Calvin- you da maaaan.
Today is my first time I install my own 105.. is not easy... it takes time and experience... gone cost u a bit much... but is good to learn about it and I love it. Thanks to park tool
Love these videos. He speaks clearly and at a reasonable pace, often repeating important points. And he's neat!
Thanks for the video. I learned much from it, as I did for all of your videos so far. Thanks to you guys I have been able to flawlessly mount brake and shift cables many times on my hybrid and city bikes.
But now I'm having some trouble mounting a compressionless housing. A few years back I got my first road bike, which now needs some new cables, so I decided to try out a compressionless brake cable kit for the first time. I started getting the length right as shown in the video - mostly using the old housing as a template - but due to the very high stiffness of the housing I can't for the life of me find a good length and routing.
The housing is so stiff that it partly engages the brakes without touching the lever, bringing the pads closer to the rim. If I try to get it a bit shorter, then the handlebar won't be able to move freely and/or the housing will get too tight when I try pulling the brake lever, since dual-pivot calipers pull the housing a little bit when engaged.
Do you have tips for compressionless housing? Has anyone here mounted this type of super stiff housing without impacting the calipers' or handlebar's movement?
I was literally SO confused by this when I first watched… I thought, am I going crazy or are the brakes the wrong way round? I didn’t realise there are different laws for different countries. In the UK, the front brake is always on the right hand side. Partly because of historical bike design and partly because of which side of the road we ride on. Learnt something new there… Left-hand/front brake still seems weird to me though. Especially as I also ride motorcycles…
Calvin is a boss! Thanks for yet another super informative a accessible repair video.
I knew how to replace my cable but had no idea how to ask for the mushroom end, as opposed to the circular end, so, this video was still a big help. Thank you!
Excellent and thanks a lot. So many videos out there on brake cables but this is the most simplest yet comprehensive.
Thanks a lot, it helps me to change my brake housing after a stem/drop bar remplacement. The part on the housing lenght finding is the most usefull i fund on the web.
Amazingly helpful! Bianchi Brava otw and will need to reinstall brake cable. Stay posted!
These videos are just fantastic! They’re very informative and I have learned a lot from them!
You are a great teacher Sir!
Absolutely amazing. You’ve thought of everything a noob like me should look for. Full disclaimer I’ve fitted a rear brake cable today and cut too short. I can turn my bike now…
mr calvin you are a hero
Notice he's using what's known as strapping tape to tape the housing against the bars. Ordinary tape like electrical tape will stretch. When you apply the brakes, the cable wants to straighten out with great force. This will in turn make the housing want to straighten out, especially at the tight curve where the flat part of the bars curves forward. Stretchy tape will stretch here and the housing can move away from the bars.
Strapping tape is a lot like a flat piece of shift housing with strands of fiber running length wise, preventing it from stretching.
Thank you so much for this video. Would you recommend to always replace the housing when replacing cables? Or could you reuse the same housing multiple times? Thanks!
Typically housing replacement is suggested at the same time. There are exceptions to that of course.
What an awesome explanation and demonstration. Thank you
Thank you for this concise tutorial . Valuable to all cyclists!
Thank you very much, good Sir! I wouldn't have been able to put my bike together without your videos.
Thx now I understand why we need cable housing & how to 'tailor'
Thank you Calvin- for your help and support, very well explained you made it look so easy.hieghly appreciated again well done /thank you /God bless you and the USA.
Thank you a lot for this amazing explanation!
This guy is amazing. Thank you very much!!
Are there no barrel adjuster in drop bar cable brake levers? I have a Claris ST R2000 and I have been wondering about this.
Beware when you buy shimano sets, there are 3 different quality ranges. I highly recommend to pay the extra 10 bucks and go mid.
The cheapest are 4€ for the set but use a spiral cable. And no aluminium endcap and no small guiding ends on plastic endcaps. No coating whatsoever.
The mid ones are 15€ a set and have the straight protective cables. Shimano calls this SUS. They come pre oiled and have protective caps and the metal end cap. OPTISCLICK and SIL TEC fall into this mid category.
The high end ones are 30€ a pair. They are polymer coated instead of oiled.
Hi Park tool, thank you for these awesome tutorials. Do you have a video tutorial on shifter house and cable installation?
We do not have one currently. This is a video we have been looking at doing for awhile. Stay tuned!
Park Tool that would be awesome. Looking forward to it !
@@parktool It's two years later, do you have such video now? I plan to change all my cables and housing (shifters+ brakes) on my shimano 105 (rim brakes). I would love a video to help also with the shifting cables.
Calvin, great video. I am looking at doing this as a winter project for my brakes and shifters. Do you know what style cable housing comes with the Shimano kit's? Also what's a rule of thumb for longevity on these cables, coated vs uncoated? Thanks
MUCH LOVE AND APPRECIATION TO YOU GUYS!! Thanks for your guidance to upgrade my SPECIALIZED "Langster" track bike for every element, except the saddle is still in good condition.. Also assisted me to correct my rear and front derailleurs on my 2nd bike my other love SPECIALIZED "Allez". I have learned A LOT of valuable information from you guys and your videos. Now I have all the proper tools and knowledge (from your videos), not necessary for the bike shop, unless absolutely required. ALTHOUGH....any ideas for the 2018 Allez, saddle post is not round (it is an OVAL shape), cannot twist, but it is seized. I've tried coca-cola, WD-40, heat/cool, pushing/pulling methods to loosen with no luck. Any other ideas? THANK YOU!!!
Is there room for it to go down? If so you may be able to use a mallet or hammer to impact it down just a small bit to break the corrosion up. Then pull it out. It may require a new seatpost. But at this point thats going to be a much better option than leaving it in the bike as it will only get tougher to get out. Good luck!
@@parktool my shifter is in the middle of the handlebar just above the frame 2 shifters 1 front 1 rear and my drop bar brake handle had sheared off not 1 not 2 all handles broke
Do you have a similar video for gear housing and cabling? I see in this video the gear cabling is also complete. I need one that shows the process for the gear cabling and housing
Stay tuned!
Excellent guide! One minor thing - I have read that often it is not necessary or even detrimental to oil the housing with modern liners as they are pre-lubricated, is this true? The reasoning that the oil helps keep out water does make sense but I can also imagine excess oil gumming things up over time
Pre-lubricated will be with a grease, and the lubricating part of grease is oil. If there is grease already inside the housing, oil would be meaningless.
Should I lubricate the shifter housing for a brand new shimano shifting cable with coating?
wondering that myself. the meger instructions say don't lube. what do i do with the shimano cable grease i bought?
Shimano housing and others come with grease already installed in the housing when new. After some time of use you will want to lube the housing and cable with your cable grease.
I have a 2021 Allez Elite with internally routed rear brake caliper that has a lot of friction when lever is pulled. When I disconnected cable I found the caliper and lever move smoothly and when connected I can hear cable rubbing housing inside top tube. Is there anything I can do to get rid of rubbing other than replacing rear cable and housing? Thanks.
Thanks Calvin, you solved my problem. You're awesome.
I wish he was my mechanic!
same... he is a wise one...so much to learn from him. even the pretenders can learn from him.
I wish I was his apprentice
Be your own
extremely informative!
Thnk q 👍👍 for helping full details
Did he route the front brake cable to the left hand lever? Is that an alternative somewhere? In the U.K., the right shifter is always the front brake.
We are a bit weird here in the states. Right is rear left is front. This has to do with hand signals and driving on the righthand side of the road.
Park Tool Makes perfect sense I guess! Thank you for the reply!
Thanks Dad.
Those brake levers have combination brake and gear shift functionality. Please tell me the name of those levers. Thanks!!
So housing endcaps or ferrules aren't needed (or even possible?) on the pieces of brake-cable housing that go into the brifter?
Thats correct. There are some that do require them but those are outliers.
Great video
Oh, this is great! Big thanks to you!
Great video as always Calvin! Should you use a cable end cap on the end that inserts into the brake lever body? 10:50
On these levers there is no room for a ferrule on the end but you need one on some other brands.
@@parktool Thanks for the quick response!
Question: How would you determine the length of the cable housing on mechanical disc brakes? Do you just use the old housing as a template? Thanks.
You are looking for sweeping bends in the housing and the ability to turn the bars easily. Not too long, not too short. Goldilocks. This holds true for all cable and housing systems.
@@parktool Thank you so much!
Quick help pls. Rear rim brake caliper does not return fully when sti lever is released. Do i need to just clean amd lube the brake cables and housing? And if i do, do i need to cut the cable at the crimp, or can i just loosen the pinch bolt?
Cleaning and lubricating the cable along with the pivot points of the brake is a great place to start and is typically the cause of the caliper not returning fully
@@parktool Thanks.
Hello there,
I have a suggestion, can you do a video on mechanical disk brake road bike brake wire measurements and installation please.
Good suggestion. The concept is the same. Will put it on the list.
Good old Calvin, he's so cuddly...
Is there a video running cable thru older Shimano road bike brake shifters?
Mine are no where near as easy to run your brake cable thru as the ones in this video.
Thanks again for the great video!
Question...how far do you run the cable housing? Does it go all the way into the levers? Both brake cables and shifter cables
there is a stop inside the levers.
I've been stuck at 10:30 for about an hour. I'm considering throwing my bike in a skip.
what about those link housing system by jagwire? are they any good?
There are positives and negatives. They can be noisy with the housing clanking against the frame and produce "clicky" sounds where individual links creak against each other.
Great instructions, epic 'stache!
0:51 What's a brake housing, caliper, and lever?
I need to change my brakes and put drop handlebar on a cable brake but am not sure which brake is the front/rear brake.
Can anybody help.
This does vary a bit globally. in the USA and many areas of the world the left hand brae is front and the right hand brake is rear. In the UK and other countries you may run into the opposite.
Does it matter if you do the breaks or the shifter cables first
Not, do either first.
@@parktool Does it matter if brake or shifter cables are over each other or vice versa?
All your videos are great. You can also use a straight edge(level) to judge brake handle alignment
Is there a shifter cable and housing installation video ?
Working on that topic now. Stay tuned.
@@parktool many thanks 🙏🏻😊
Most informative and thorough. Cheers. BTW your music sounds so much like Sleaford Mods...
Great band
You are the best thanks
I want to know does the shifter housing do the works with the brake housing ?
If at all possible use brake housing for brakes and shift housing for shifters. You can use brake housing for shifters but it will result in vague shifting. Shift housing used for brakes is not a good idea and can lead to injury. The windings of the housing can blow out under the pressure and disable the brakes.
@@parktool Thankyou very much for your reply!
thanx.....it was great help
The shift cables on my Sora shift/brake levers come out of the side instead of the back of the shifter. How should I route them in that case?
The so called "katydid" style lever have shift housing looping inward from each side. You want just enough length so the housing leaves the lever in a straight line as it arcs back to the frame housing stop. Hold it by hand next to housing stop and test it by turning the bars 90-degrees away from the lever are testing. It should not tug where you are holding it.
i know this is stupid but still....could you make a video on converting a mtb flat bar to drop bar? please. looking forward to it :D
That is a good one. It will go on the To-Do list.
@@parktool so clear my one dilemma... if i am to convert the flat bar to a drop bar of a mtb....should i change the rd and fd? plus can i still use the disc brakes?? looking forward to your answer.
I cut my new housing to match the old housing, thinking that would be a shortcut. Anyone know why it fits as terribly as if I'd cut it for a completely different bike? Like not even close, now I'm lost.
So shift housing is not appropriate to be used on brake cables. But could you use brake housing with shift cables?? Anything wrong with that?
Brake housing is a wound single cable wrapped around the liner. It is strong laterally, but it is also flexible. This means with index shifting, some of the push and the "click" is lost in the flex. It simply does not transfer the action at the shifter efficiency to the rear mechanism.
can i use silicone spray oil to lube the housing?
I am not sure, do you use end caps for the lever or just for the caliper?
9:24 "Whenever an end cap can be used, it should be used." Always use an end cap where it will fit fully into the component. However, most modern drop bar levers do not accept an end cap.
If only this was applicable to all lever hoods. Shimano sora is not letting me down easy.
What is the housing linke if you have CANE CREEK CANTIS with that extra 90 degree cable? Until where does the housing go and is there a normal pull to the housing to to the tension?? (Which I suppose is not normal but who knows how you tapped your housing?)
th-cam.com/video/FvFira2dAPY/w-d-xo.html Have you checked out this video yet? It might get you in the zone. The length of the cable housing is determined by where the stop is located on your bike. Some stops are build into the stem, others into the fork and still others are hung from a headset spacer. The goal is to have a nice smooth actuation which means that you should not have tight bends or huge curves. You are looking for that golilocks setup.
I notice you don't use an end cap on the lever end of the cable. Should you use one if there is enough room in the lever body for an end cap?
+Phil Hughes Always use an end cap where they fit fully into the component. For most modern drop bar levers, the bodies do not accept housing with the end cap. The sizing at the body is reduced for only the housing to fit.
-Calvin
+Park Tool Ok, thanks.
can you run road bike brake cable without taking off bar tape..
You can usually run a new cable without removing the tape. It can be difficult on some of the newer systems but is possible. You cannot run new housing without removing the tape though.
@@parktool it's a new bike never used ...wanted to take the bar off and put it on another bike and knew the cable may be to short but didn't want to go through getting new tape .
Is there a cable/housing specific lubricant that is used for cable replacement?
For general use, a light lubricant such as a chain lube is fine.
- Calvin
+Park Tool Thanks, Calvin.
+CycleHubTV 3 in 1 oil works well :)
Petroleum damages the plastic inside the housing.
very nice :)
100% Thanks!
Rất chi tiết , hay . Xe đẹp .
That's a total of how many meters the housing takes
It varies widely by bike. Full housing bikes will use much more than bikes with segmented housings.
Why not use housing along the frame to the rear brake?
Uses less housing, which in turn reduces friction (and cost, a tiny bit)
Thats a serious mustache
Great video, but it ends prematurely. You skipped the installation of the cable on the pinch mechanism.
Why cant newly hired bicycle mechanics watch these and learn instead of doing the sloppy job?
Many shops will have new mechanics watch these videos as part of their training. Video, hands on, then back to a video.
@@parktool Yeah, i've bought bike from decathlon and cables were poorly done, like not much aftgerthought about placement of the cable itself and inline barrel adjusters.
say again "housing"
The shit is complex.
You are routing the cables incorrectly..the right front brake should be on the right ..this way the cable drops nearly to the cable adjuster without pointlessly crossing the front steerer. The left hand brake should go to the back brake which is where the adjuster is positioned..The Japanese ride on the left like the English and that is why they designed the brakes like they have ..You are using the incorrect French way ..
Is it possible to do this on a mountain bike linear pull to be exact?