It really is a superior measurement system. I work in the automotive industry so I have to know it and I’ve just about fully converted over, at least with lengths.
old tool and die machinist here who also repairs watches as a hobby. work in both imperial and had to learn metric which I think is the natural progression. It's superior to imperial and well...just makes sense. I think it's easier too.
As a americ it make me happy to hear from our buddies across the pond. I’m 48 growing up working on my own stuff motorcycle,3wheelers,4wheelers. Mostly Japanese. (Honda) I ride the best lol used to metric system to. I like both makes for a expensive toolbox 🧰 especially for poor ole hillbilly. Because all my motorized stuff back then u know about second hand well these where usually 4-5 even sixth hand lol. Well y’all. These little Unimat idk. Don’t get um. Lol. U will love um parts (accessories) more than price gold. U will have to have this and want that need those. So if you like treasure hunts spending $ not finding treasures I say go for it the treasure is in the 200$ piece you made cause accessories had buy when could got bolt from hardware store for buck minty nine. 1.99$. Lol. But how fun would that be anyone can run to hardware store. Hey I made that. Lol. Love to all are unimat db/200 sl/1000 owners. Little love to y’all unimat 3 owners with ur m14 threads. Ha there accessories are everywhere. Get u some m12-1.0 threads stuff then will talk. lol. Y’all know I’m just kidding having good time. I wish would ask for one back n 80 around 10 years old sears wishbook had them quite expensive little suckers back then to but wow boy has value went up. Well guy and gals. I’m starting to ramble on so will leave ya with a stay safe make something even if a $500 watchumacallit. From ur ole hillbilly buddy. Unimat s rule.
True- although it is strange to hear them referring to 'rpms' instead of 'rpm'- the minute is singular. Will take a while for them to get Hz... BTW the US car industry has been metric since the mid 70s.
So I watched your video, bought all the Amazon link stuff, re watched your video, and connected everything like you did ...... Plugged it in to give it power and had a really cool fireball out the silver power box, sent that back and got a new one it works really well now. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
I did what you did with your lathe. And added the same stuff. You were right. The power is good enough for this lathe. Im gonna make a video using it as a end mill. I will definitely share your link if you don’t mind, so others can use it too. Thanks again for sharing.
Yeah it really “wakes it up”. When I first got it I was kinda disappointed but adding this changed my mind completely and makes it more enjoyable. I even switch some tools to carbide insert tooling (set from Harbor Freight) and it works great since it now has the power that carbide needs. And no problem sharing the link.
@@TheVintageEngineer I mentioned you in my video. I hope others can learn from your video as much as I did. Please upload more videos about your Unimat. Cheers.
I just finished upgrading my unimat. Thank you for the all info you provided. I played with the belt routing until I found one that I think gives me the best speed variations from zero to full speed. I routed the motor belt to the smallest pulley on the idler and from the largest pulley on the idler I ran the other belt to the smallest groove on the spindle pulley.
I like it very much. I also have the quick change tool post that you have. These two upgrades make the machine much more enjoyable to use. Before, I hated changing the position of the belts because I knew I would get a finger pinched in doing so. The one thing I did different than you did, l made an adapter plate to mount the motor.
@@andresflute I bought it off of ebay. I did a quick search a minute ago but it appears that the vendor I bought it from does not have a listing for them anymore. The seller goes by hkoesnadi on ebay. You might contact them, maybe they still have them but just not listed. Good luck.
Yes sir. Great video. You need keep unimat video’s rolling they have good following. Especially when doing great cheap upgrade. Stay safe. From ur ole hillbilly buddy.
@@TheVintageEngineer yeah I’m doing that to mine going to go with brushless 1/5 rc motor but there 200-400$ good one. Probably do what you done. Looks like got more than enough power the machine can handle.
You won’t be disappointed. I actually got frustrated with the factory motor when I first got it and just about sold it. I’m serious when I say it feels like a different machine.
@@TheVintageEngineer Just got my motor, and was able to drill out the 2nd hole just like yours. It's a little less meaty behind that section on my plate but it still holds. Also, I accidentally pulled out the armature (just like you warned at 19:14) but the brushes didn't break. They crashed into each other but I was able to take apart the whole case and get them back into place. Next, I need to wait for the power supply and controller and pulley, lol, then I'll be all set. Thanks for this video, it was very inspiring and confidence-building.
@@DavidPlass if you happen to feel like you need more material, you can get some aluminum brazing rod and build it up. I tried Bernzomatic brand and didn’t like it but the Hobart Brand is good.
Awesome 👍🏻👍🏻 I have been looking for a small unimat lathe for some time now for making small parts for my mc. But the best condition ones have all been in 110v and i need 220v. Now I can order a 110 or one missing the motor and just change the parts like you have done. Thanks 👍🏻
Interesting conversion. I recently converted mine to a 500w spindle. There are a few advantages to this- - the motor is brushless - more power for the same size - more accurate speed control- it is a synchronous motor (the video shows yours slowing down under load). Did you not consider making the pulley in the lathe? I made mine half the size of the largest pulley on the lathe shaft- so my 12000rpm (max) motor can drive the shaft at 6000rpm- the max speed shown in the Unimat manual. Why the largest? Maximum torque. I replaced the whole bracket, since the lay pulleys are not needed. This avoided the need for adapter plates, etc.
Antony thanks for this video! I just bought an UNIMAT SL with Automatic feed Attachment, my first lathe. A question for you: Is the quick change a commercial product or has it been modified to be adapted? Thanks
Thank you for a great video. I am looking at an SL model but the motor is blown so this helps me FIND and INSTALL a replacement. It's too bad these motors don't have a universal mounting (that would just make too much sense). A drill and tap isn't bad though. THANKS AGAIN.
eBay seller has them. Name is hkoesnadi. They post these up maybe 1 or 2 times a month and the sell usually within a couple of days so keep an eye out. Comes with 2 standard holders, one for 3/8 boring bar, one for flat blade parting tool, and one that holds a dremel for a toolpost grinder.
@@ywong91301 I just talked to him the other day. He's pretty much out of stock but is steadily making more and will put it up soon. His shop makes some great stuff, including QD tool post, travel indicator snugs sine tables, a real easy rotary table amongst others. He's out of NOCAL and sells out fast so keep eyes peeled. I've bought a few things from him. Quality sturdy american work.
Nice vid. Working on upgrading my own with a PMDC motor and controller. The thing is addictive and tooling is expensive. But it's fun. Trying to do a couple videos myself. I'm still undecided about how I'm adapt the motor to the bracket and how to adapt pulleys and shaft.
@@TheVintageEngineer no it's a 90 watt. We'll see how it goes. Right now it's all disassembled for inspection, cleanup and grease. The thing is in near mint condition and hasn't really been touched in 50+ years
@@TheVintageEngineer wish I woulda seen your vid first I might have gone a different direction! Think I'm going off your links and modify a new pulley instead of the other way around. Did you drill the shaft and put in a key pin like the original or stay with just the setscrews?
@@machinistmikethetinkerer4827 just a set screw, holding pretty well. Everything old tool I have I try not to modify in case I sell it and I know others don’t like modifications. If it wasn’t for that I would probably have bored the original pulley. But it wouldn’t be hard to just make another one.
Lower speed normally yeilds greater torque my friend. Plus your your tool. Your cutting aluminium so you want a sharp tool. Your trying to do 2 jobs at once you have the tool at 45deg to take more of a cut, good luck with that but i think you need to screw your lathe down as the forces increase, also you could have created more rake at the top end of your tool.
I'm excited to do this to my db200. can u link what tachometer(?) your using to measure the speed? I'm having trouble finding an analog one with a dial indicator. i might be searching for the wrong thing though. thanks
Hey Anthony! Just finished the motor upgrade just as you showed and everything works perfect. The only issue I have is that the fan comes on as soon as I plug the unit in and it stays on continuously. The fan speed does vary depending on the speed of the motor. Since I have the electronics in a box (vented) I do not mind it being on all the time but it would be nice to be able to leave it plugged in and not have the fan running. Does anyone else have a comment on this situation? It would be nice to know if Im the only one.Thanks for the amazing video!
You can just wire a switch between the plug and the power supply. I printed an enclosure for the wiring end of the power supply and added an IEC320 C14 inlet port with integrated fuse and switch. Same plug you see on desktop computer power supplies.
Decided to go with a new motor pulley and ream it to size, to the new drive motor. I ordered off your links. Thanks for the tips and links. Meantime I'll keep original U90 motor and drive pulley together as is. I suppose I won't need to use the factory low-speed mount and pulley now that I'm rigging up a DC motor eh?
I would keep it. Even though the dc motor is variable speed it still has limitations at super slow speed. I configure the pulley setup to get me in the rpm range and the use the speed control to tune it better. Plus doesn’t the pulley bracket act as a spring retainer for the quill spring? Can’t remember off the top of my head.
@@TheVintageEngineer I should have mentioned there are two pulley/mounts available-the one that ships with the kit and the slow-speed sold as an accessory. I happen to have both. Might make more sense to ya.
@@machinistmikethetinkerer4827 oh ok. I know the main reason they came out with the slow speed bracket (2 idler pulleys) was to slow down the speed significantly for the thread cutting attachment. Original single idler should suffice.
@@TheVintageEngineer agreed. I juuuust picked up a slow speed bracket, it arrived today. Now I don't know what I'm going to do with it. I don't have the thread attachment. Not sure if I ever will. You ever done any knurling on your Unimat?
Hello how u liking it now been few months. Also thinking about getting me the vener lathe 8x16 has bigger spindle bore. 1” or tad bigger. Seen where guy made a plate that fit his bed rails and mounts his unimat in mill form to rails. Use the lathe as table and chuck divider lot different things. With ur motor on it make good mill I believe on that bed give plenty of movement just a thought. More I check n on lathe vener there 50/50 hate um or like um. Just throwing options around n my head. Love have mill and lathe at same time. Thought about another db/200 mounted behind seen some like that but still limited size. Like the ideal of mounted on bigger lathe. Idk just thinking out loud like say. Anyway great videos watching this one two three times got money going pull trigger on motor combo u have. It’s nice. Looking. How’s been holding up with more power not wanting break other component’s. Thanks for listening or rather reading. lol going print out head space adapter this week and tailstock. Seen video gives lot room for swing 2” adapter 3D printed they held up goof so far he said. Sells them but I have ender3 max if only knew more about computers. Can do little if find files someone puts online thingiverse. So that n future with ur motor set up be nice. Going print my box enclosure to.
Done a couple little projects with it and was able to switch to carbide tooling (much better surface finish). But I haven’t had time to get back into it lately. I did pick up a Craftsman 6” lathe (same as Atlas 618) and I’ve seen Popular Mechanics articles showing a Mount for the Unimat to be used on the Atlas carriage. Would be great for cutting keyways on a shaft. Great thing about the Atlas is it has a built in indexing feature with I believe 60 stops.
I ended up buying the motor and everything else through your links. I appreciate you sharing them. Just out of curiosity, are you so far satisfied with the result? or would you recommend getting something more powerful? Thanks again.
Going more power might be a waste. I don’t think you would be able to do a higher Depth of cut because of the small round ways. I actually had a spare 250 watt motor from a razor e300 scooter but the form factor is more like a pancake so the diameter was too big. So extra fabrication. Do I like it? I think it might be the best bang for getting buck upgrade. Higher depth of cut and not having to worry about overheating the motor are the biggest pluses. I actually tried it with carbide inserts after the video and it work really well, which I always heard carbide requires more power than HSS. Make sure you either build an enclosure or at least have the components in an area where chips/swarf won’t hit it. Don’t want anything shorting out.
You would get better results if you fitted a 200 watt 3 phase motor and a VFD..........also the tool needs a sharp positive top rake for alluminium with some kerosene for cutting.......works wonders.
Isn't the sherline powerful enough already? I have honestly never been able to stall that damned sherline motor haha! And that is cutting stainless too.
@@martinpanev6651 I bought my Sherline used and the motor was faulty. It wasn't operating at full power. Unfortunately the Sherline motors are expensive and difficult to source where I live so it was easier and more cost effective to change the whole thing.
@@machinist_matt Oh, that makes so mich more sense! I watched your video on the sherline a while back when you posted it but i dont think i was listening that much haha
As a brit it makes me happy to hear you American's talk in metric thank you.
It really is a superior measurement system. I work in the automotive industry so I have to know it and I’ve just about fully converted over, at least with lengths.
old tool and die machinist here who also repairs watches as a hobby. work in both imperial and had to learn metric which I think is the natural progression. It's superior to imperial and well...just makes sense. I think it's easier too.
As a americ it make me happy to hear from our buddies across the pond. I’m 48 growing up working on my own stuff motorcycle,3wheelers,4wheelers. Mostly Japanese. (Honda) I ride the best lol used to metric system to. I like both makes for a expensive toolbox 🧰 especially for poor ole hillbilly. Because all my motorized stuff back then u know about second hand well these where usually 4-5 even sixth hand lol. Well y’all. These little Unimat idk. Don’t get um. Lol. U will love um parts (accessories) more than price gold. U will have to have this and want that need those. So if you like treasure hunts spending $ not finding treasures I say go for it the treasure is in the 200$ piece you made cause accessories had buy when could got bolt from hardware store for buck minty nine. 1.99$. Lol. But how fun would that be anyone can run to hardware store. Hey I made that. Lol. Love to all are unimat db/200 sl/1000 owners. Little love to y’all unimat 3 owners with ur m14 threads. Ha there accessories are everywhere. Get u some m12-1.0 threads stuff then will talk. lol. Y’all know I’m just kidding having good time. I wish would ask for one back n 80 around 10 years old sears wishbook had them quite expensive little suckers back then to but wow boy has value went up. Well guy and gals. I’m starting to ramble on so will leave ya with a stay safe make something even if a $500 watchumacallit. From ur ole hillbilly buddy. Unimat s rule.
As a Brit having just brought a 1950 Velocette MAC I am going back to imperial ;-)
True- although it is strange to hear them referring to 'rpms' instead of 'rpm'- the minute is singular. Will take a while for them to get Hz...
BTW the US car industry has been metric since the mid 70s.
So I watched your video, bought all the Amazon link stuff, re watched your video, and connected everything like you did ...... Plugged it in to give it power and had a really cool fireball out the silver power box, sent that back and got a new one it works really well now. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
Quick change on a Unimat is quite an upgrade already.
I did what you did with your lathe. And added the same stuff. You were right. The power is good enough for this lathe. Im gonna make a video using it as a end mill. I will definitely share your link if you don’t mind, so others can use it too. Thanks again for sharing.
Yeah it really “wakes it up”. When I first got it I was kinda disappointed but adding this changed my mind completely and makes it more enjoyable. I even switch some tools to carbide insert tooling (set from Harbor Freight) and it works great since it now has the power that carbide needs. And no problem sharing the link.
@@TheVintageEngineer I mentioned you in my video. I hope others can learn from your video as much as I did. Please upload more videos about your Unimat. Cheers.
I just finished upgrading my unimat. Thank you for the all info you provided. I played with the belt routing until I found one that I think gives me the best speed variations from zero to full speed. I routed the motor belt to the smallest pulley on the idler and from the largest pulley on the idler I ran the other belt to the smallest groove on the spindle pulley.
So what’s your thoughts after upgrading?
I like it very much. I also have the quick change tool post that you have. These two upgrades make the machine much more enjoyable to use. Before, I hated changing the position of the belts because I knew I would get a finger pinched in doing so. The one thing I did different than you did, l made an adapter plate to mount the motor.
@@franciscoflores7911 yeah the quick change tool post is an absolute must as well. Good to hear
Can you tell me please where to buy the quick change tool post? thanks!
@@andresflute I bought it off of ebay. I did a quick search a minute ago but it appears that the vendor I bought it from does not have a listing for them anymore. The seller goes by hkoesnadi on ebay. You might contact them, maybe they still have them but just not listed. Good luck.
Nice video with lot of details. Thanks for sharing. I’ve already watched it a few times.
I’ve been waiting for this video for a really long time. Thank you so much 😊 🙏.
You’re very welcome.
Yes sir. Great video. You need keep unimat video’s rolling they have good following. Especially when doing great cheap upgrade. Stay safe. From ur ole hillbilly buddy.
Everybody is looking for a cheap upgrade after they spent all their money on those official accessories. Wow do they command a premium.
@@TheVintageEngineer yes sir. The littler the machine more accessories cost I think 🤔
@@TheVintageEngineer yeah I’m doing that to mine going to go with brushless 1/5 rc motor but there 200-400$ good one. Probably do what you done. Looks like got more than enough power the machine can handle.
I just bought a Unimat and am already planning this upgrade!
You won’t be disappointed. I actually got frustrated with the factory motor when I first got it and just about sold it. I’m serious when I say it feels like a different machine.
@@TheVintageEngineer Just got my motor, and was able to drill out the 2nd hole just like yours. It's a little less meaty behind that section on my plate but it still holds. Also, I accidentally pulled out the armature (just like you warned at 19:14) but the brushes didn't break. They crashed into each other but I was able to take apart the whole case and get them back into place. Next, I need to wait for the power supply and controller and pulley, lol, then I'll be all set.
Thanks for this video, it was very inspiring and confidence-building.
@@DavidPlass if you happen to feel like you need more material, you can get some aluminum brazing rod and build it up. I tried Bernzomatic brand and didn’t like it but the Hobart Brand is good.
@@TheVintageEngineer so far it's holding so I'm not going to push my luck!
Awesome 👍🏻👍🏻 I have been looking for a small unimat lathe for some time now for making small parts for my mc. But the best condition ones have all been in 110v and i need 220v. Now I can order a 110 or one missing the motor and just change the parts like you have done. Thanks 👍🏻
Excellent video, I'll attempt the same for my unimat. Thanks
Interesting conversion. I recently converted mine to a 500w spindle. There are a few advantages to this-
- the motor is brushless
- more power for the same size
- more accurate speed control- it is a synchronous motor (the video shows yours slowing down under load).
Did you not consider making the pulley in the lathe?
I made mine half the size of the largest pulley on the lathe shaft- so my 12000rpm (max) motor can drive the shaft at 6000rpm- the max speed shown in the Unimat manual. Why the largest? Maximum torque. I replaced the whole bracket, since the lay pulleys are not needed. This avoided the need for adapter plates, etc.
Great Video, more Unimat lathe videos please, keep 'em coming..
Antony thanks for this video! I just bought an UNIMAT SL with Automatic feed Attachment, my first lathe. A question for you: Is the quick change a commercial product or has it been modified to be adapted? Thanks
Guy on eBay sold them. Username is hkoesnadi. Doesn’t appear he has sold any recently
@@TheVintageEngineer Thanks
I would use a grounded plug and ground it to the power supply case as well as the motor housing.
Great video Anthony, thanks a lot.
Thank you for a great video. I am looking at an SL model but the motor is blown so this helps me FIND and INSTALL a replacement. It's too bad these motors don't have a universal mounting (that would just make too much sense). A drill and tap isn't bad though. THANKS AGAIN.
After doing this mod, I wouldn’t hesitate getting one with a bad motor. Use it as a bargaining tool to get that price down.
Nice upgrade.
Hello, a very interesting video. Can you please tell me which quick change steel holder you use?
I found it on eBay from a seller in California. His eBay about is “hkoesnadi”
@@TheVintageEngineer yesterday i got my steel holder (china). Today the upgrade motor will arive . Thanks for the inspiration!
Where did you get your quick change tool post?
I found it below, thanks
Great job! BTW, what quick change tool post you have on your machine? I have been looking for one myself. Thank you.
eBay seller has them. Name is hkoesnadi. They post these up maybe 1 or 2 times a month and the sell usually within a couple of days so keep an eye out. Comes with 2 standard holders, one for 3/8 boring bar, one for flat blade parting tool, and one that holds a dremel for a toolpost grinder.
@@TheVintageEngineer Thank you, I'll keep an eye out for his listing.
@@ywong91301 I just talked to him the other day. He's pretty much out of stock but is steadily making more and will put it up soon. His shop makes some great stuff, including QD tool post, travel indicator snugs sine tables, a real easy rotary table amongst others. He's out of NOCAL and sells out fast so keep eyes peeled. I've bought a few things from him. Quality sturdy american work.
Nice vid. Working on upgrading my own with a PMDC motor and controller. The thing is addictive and tooling is expensive. But it's fun. Trying to do a couple videos myself. I'm still undecided about how I'm adapt the motor to the bracket and how to adapt pulleys and shaft.
You going with the same size motor?
@@TheVintageEngineer no it's a 90 watt. We'll see how it goes. Right now it's all disassembled for inspection, cleanup and grease. The thing is in near mint condition and hasn't really been touched in 50+ years
@@TheVintageEngineer wish I woulda seen your vid first I might have gone a different direction! Think I'm going off your links and modify a new pulley instead of the other way around. Did you drill the shaft and put in a key pin like the original or stay with just the setscrews?
@@TheVintageEngineer I'm only a couple days into this so alot more to come.
@@machinistmikethetinkerer4827 just a set screw, holding pretty well. Everything old tool I have I try not to modify in case I sell it and I know others don’t like modifications. If it wasn’t for that I would probably have bored the original pulley. But it wouldn’t be hard to just make another one.
Lower speed normally yeilds greater torque my friend. Plus your your tool. Your cutting aluminium so you want a sharp tool. Your trying to do 2 jobs at once you have the tool at 45deg to take more of a cut, good luck with that but i think you need to screw your lathe down as the forces increase, also you could have created more rake at the top end of your tool.
Great job, thanks for posting this. Do you still need change pulleys having a variable speed motor?
Yes but not as much as before.
I'm excited to do this to my db200. can u link what tachometer(?) your using to measure the speed? I'm having trouble finding an analog one with a dial indicator. i might be searching for the wrong thing though. thanks
It’s a Hasler Speed Indicator (patented in 1918). Look on eBay.
How would you do an upgrade like this without any of the other electronics? Just a motor swap?
You can get get rid of the speed controller and just run the motor off a 24v power supply, if you don’t want variable speed.
Hey Anthony! Just finished the motor upgrade just as you showed and everything works perfect. The only issue I have is that the fan comes on as soon as I plug the unit in and it stays on continuously. The fan speed does vary depending on the speed of the motor. Since I have the electronics in a box (vented) I do not mind it being on all the time but it would be nice to be able to leave it plugged in and not have the fan running. Does anyone else have a comment on this situation? It would be nice to know if Im the only one.Thanks for the amazing video!
You can just wire a switch between the plug and the power supply. I printed an enclosure for the wiring end of the power supply and added an IEC320 C14 inlet port with integrated fuse and switch. Same plug you see on desktop computer power supplies.
How much something like this cost you not the upgrades and everything just the machine itself when you got it thanks
I think I paid a little over $200
Decided to go with a new motor pulley and ream it to size, to the new drive motor. I ordered off your links. Thanks for the tips and links. Meantime I'll keep original U90 motor and drive pulley together as is. I suppose I won't need to use the factory low-speed mount and pulley now that I'm rigging up a DC motor eh?
I would keep it. Even though the dc motor is variable speed it still has limitations at super slow speed. I configure the pulley setup to get me in the rpm range and the use the speed control to tune it better. Plus doesn’t the pulley bracket act as a spring retainer for the quill spring? Can’t remember off the top of my head.
Oh I plan on keeping all of it for sure but you are correct-the quill spring is retained by the bracket and can't be used without it.
@@TheVintageEngineer I should have mentioned there are two pulley/mounts available-the one that ships with the kit and the slow-speed sold as an accessory. I happen to have both. Might make more sense to ya.
@@machinistmikethetinkerer4827 oh ok. I know the main reason they came out with the slow speed bracket (2 idler pulleys) was to slow down the speed significantly for the thread cutting attachment. Original single idler should suffice.
@@TheVintageEngineer agreed. I juuuust picked up a slow speed bracket, it arrived today. Now I don't know what I'm going to do with it. I don't have the thread attachment. Not sure if I ever will. You ever done any knurling on your Unimat?
Cool project ! What tool did you use to measure the RPM ?
Hasler Speed Indicator. It’s about 100 years old.
Hello how u liking it now been few months.
Also thinking about getting me the vener lathe 8x16 has bigger spindle bore. 1” or tad bigger. Seen where guy made a plate that fit his bed rails and mounts his unimat in mill form to rails. Use the lathe as table and chuck divider lot different things. With ur motor on it make good mill I believe on that bed give plenty of movement just a thought. More I check n on lathe vener there 50/50 hate um or like um. Just throwing options around n my head. Love have mill and lathe at same time. Thought about another db/200 mounted behind seen some like that but still limited size. Like the ideal of mounted on bigger lathe. Idk just thinking out loud like say.
Anyway great videos watching this one two three times got money going pull trigger on motor combo u have. It’s nice. Looking.
How’s been holding up with more power not wanting break other component’s. Thanks for listening or rather reading. lol going print out head space adapter this week and tailstock. Seen video gives lot room for swing 2” adapter 3D printed they held up goof so far he said. Sells them but I have ender3 max if only knew more about computers. Can do little if find files someone puts online thingiverse. So that n future with ur motor set up be nice. Going print my box enclosure to.
Done a couple little projects with it and was able to switch to carbide tooling (much better surface finish). But I haven’t had time to get back into it lately. I did pick up a Craftsman 6” lathe (same as Atlas 618) and I’ve seen Popular Mechanics articles showing a Mount for the Unimat to be used on the Atlas carriage. Would be great for cutting keyways on a shaft. Great thing about the Atlas is it has a built in indexing feature with I believe 60 stops.
I ended up buying the motor and everything else through your links. I appreciate you sharing them. Just out of curiosity, are you so far satisfied with the result? or would you recommend getting something more powerful? Thanks again.
Going more power might be a waste. I don’t think you would be able to do a higher Depth of cut because of the small round ways. I actually had a spare 250 watt motor from a razor e300 scooter but the form factor is more like a pancake so the diameter was too big. So extra fabrication. Do I like it? I think it might be the best bang for getting buck upgrade. Higher depth of cut and not having to worry about overheating the motor are the biggest pluses. I actually tried it with carbide inserts after the video and it work really well, which I always heard carbide requires more power than HSS. Make sure you either build an enclosure or at least have the components in an area where chips/swarf won’t hit it. Don’t want anything shorting out.
@@TheVintageEngineer Thank you very much for all the information. I will definitely follow your tips. I appreciate it.
Where did you get that sweet rpm gage
It’s a Hasler Speed indicator and it’s about 100 years old. Patented in 1919. Probably find some on eBay.
You would get better results if you fitted a 200 watt 3 phase motor and a VFD..........also the tool needs a sharp positive top rake for alluminium with some kerosene for cutting.......works wonders.
Good job. 👍
I did a very similar conversion on my Sherline lathe. You might like to see my videos if you need any ideas for an enclosure. 🙂
Already seen your Unimat ones but I’ll definitely take a look at the Sherline ones now.
now I gotta go back and watch your Sherline stuff.
Isn't the sherline powerful enough already? I have honestly never been able to stall that damned sherline motor haha! And that is cutting stainless too.
@@martinpanev6651 I bought my Sherline used and the motor was faulty. It wasn't operating at full power. Unfortunately the Sherline motors are expensive and difficult to source where I live so it was easier and more cost effective to change the whole thing.
@@machinist_matt Oh, that makes so mich more sense! I watched your video on the sherline a while back when you posted it but i dont think i was listening that much haha
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Most of these small lathes have whimpy motors😝thats why their so cheap