i was ready to make a drinking game of you saying "almost there" lol. i mix almost all my colors and have said that a few hundred plus times myself. an important thing to consider with bandai manual paint recommendations is they are for the acrylic line and not the lacquer and while the ranges are similar they are definitely different enough to effect mixing ratios. mixing by weight always yield a more consistent result for me when i need to repeat the color should i run out of the mix. with a 15 dollar digital scale that weighs in 1/100ths of a gram it is easy enough to scribble the weight in grams of each color on a piece of wide masking tape and stick to the bottle with the model and runner it is mixed for. i much prefer this method now and to mix up just a few ml at a time maybe 10-30ml of thinned paint and mix more if needed. another thing to consider if mixing according to the color swatches in the manual is both the integrity of the reproduced printing compared to the anime and the lighting source you view it in. i worked in a printing house that made manuals for medical and home electronics when those were still a thing and not a qr code prompting you to use your data to download a pdf and i can say with confidence that the final output is within an acceptable range to the customer and accuracy across thousands of pages is expensive. i have countless manuals from bandai listing a single color abnd when you prime an paint the manual itself next to the swatch they are radically different with the swatch being almost orange instead of the yellow orange for example on my nu gundam rg manual (think the difference between walmarts cheapest egg's yolk and whole food's most expensive one's). of course it won't help to view it under poor lighting that doesn't show as full a spectrum as possible. i've found it helps to also paint a bit over the runner or a primed runner and let it dry before settling on the color. while not as obvious as with household latex paint for walls, hobby paints still can lighten or darken when dry. but ultimately it comes down to your happiness unless you are shooting for anime accuracy and thats the only thing that will make you happy haha
Thank you for the info ,yes I usually just buy a color that looks correct to me and spray it ,but I figured I would try this out ,i as told that the Bandai manels all match the lacquer mr color catalog from almost every one of my friend in Japan that paint and build Gundpla so idk about the Acrylic part but yes in the end I did almost match the correct color or at least in the bottle we will see once I have sprayed it ,I will be trying this again for the Justice Gundam build in the near future because they honestly do not make the correct color in any of the lines that I use for the pinkish purple red color so this ended up being a trial and error deal and figured I would share my experience .
yeah I ordered another bottle of the C20 light blue and ill try spraying some spoons and see how it looks when dry ! I almost agree with you that it looks correct but need to see it when it is dry on a plastic surface to tell for sure !
i was ready to make a drinking game of you saying "almost there" lol. i mix almost all my colors and have said that a few hundred plus times myself. an important thing to consider with bandai manual paint recommendations is they are for the acrylic line and not the lacquer and while the ranges are similar they are definitely different enough to effect mixing ratios. mixing by weight always yield a more consistent result for me when i need to repeat the color should i run out of the mix. with a 15 dollar digital scale that weighs in 1/100ths of a gram it is easy enough to scribble the weight in grams of each color on a piece of wide masking tape and stick to the bottle with the model and runner it is mixed for. i much prefer this method now and to mix up just a few ml at a time maybe 10-30ml of thinned paint and mix more if needed.
another thing to consider if mixing according to the color swatches in the manual is both the integrity of the reproduced printing compared to the anime and the lighting source you view it in. i worked in a printing house that made manuals for medical and home electronics when those were still a thing and not a qr code prompting you to use your data to download a pdf and i can say with confidence that the final output is within an acceptable range to the customer and accuracy across thousands of pages is expensive. i have countless manuals from bandai listing a single color abnd when you prime an paint the manual itself next to the swatch they are radically different with the swatch being almost orange instead of the yellow orange for example on my nu gundam rg manual (think the difference between walmarts cheapest egg's yolk and whole food's most expensive one's). of course it won't help to view it under poor lighting that doesn't show as full a spectrum as possible. i've found it helps to also paint a bit over the runner or a primed runner and let it dry before settling on the color. while not as obvious as with household latex paint for walls, hobby paints still can lighten or darken when dry.
but ultimately it comes down to your happiness unless you are shooting for anime accuracy and thats the only thing that will make you happy haha
Thank you for the info ,yes I usually just buy a color that looks correct to me and spray it ,but I figured I would try this out ,i as told that the Bandai manels all match the lacquer mr color catalog from almost every one of my friend in Japan that paint and build Gundpla so idk about the Acrylic part but yes in the end I did almost match the correct color or at least in the bottle we will see once I have sprayed it ,I will be trying this again for the Justice Gundam build in the near future because they honestly do not make the correct color in any of the lines that I use for the pinkish purple red color so this ended up being a trial and error deal and figured I would share my experience .
I think you should use Mr.Color 20 its 100% the same color from the runner your trying to make
yeah I ordered another bottle of the C20 light blue and ill try spraying some spoons and see how it looks when dry ! I almost agree with you that it looks correct but need to see it when it is dry on a plastic surface to tell for sure !