SKODA FABIA Handbrake Seizing, sticking, Adjustment, Refurbishment (MK1 1.9 PD disc 9-07)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how I removed and refit the Handbrake cable and refurbished the rear brakes on a Skoda Fabia 1.9 PD MK1 (99-07) which is similar to other VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda models
Guide pins 15mm, bolts 13mm
Rear brake caliper guide bolts 10mm 35Nm
Permatex Ultra Brake Caliper Lube: amzn.to/3siVBuS
Copper grease: amzn.to/3sndGYT
Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/2VKuahi
Wire Brush: amzn.to/3CTOFJF
Rear Disc Brake Pads: amzn.to/3yObz2H
Rear Disc Brake Discs & Pads: amzn.to/3xQmesh
Brembo Rear Disc Brake Pads: amzn.to/3CU6NDa
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The content of this video is for information and entertainment value only and it's creator makes no claims, promise or guarantees of it's accuracy, coverage, instruction or adequacy of the procedures contained therein.
HatBoyHarvey assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
HatBoyHarvey recommends correct safety practices when working on motor vehicles, vehicle lifting tools, axle stands, hand tools, electrical equipment, chemical, products and consumable parts, lubricants or any other tools, equipment, chemical product and consumable parts, lubricants seen or implied in this video.
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Best video I’ve seen on here,hoping to do my car next week,I will have the i pad at hand.Good luck with your health.
Many thanks:-)
On Fabia with Drum rears I replaced everything. Shoes, Drums, Springs ... simply everything. Handbrake still wasnt working correctly i couldnt set it up. So i changed the cables and suprise suprise it works like new. Strangely enough the cables seamed same length and werent visibly damaged or anything like that. Anyway i know some folks who say you shouldnt grease up the slide pins, they always forget to tell me why. But i think that is rubbish, when you dont grease them they are bound to seize before you change pads and clean them. As always great video, thumbs up.
Thank you my friend for the like and sharing your experience with your brakes and new cable, I was hoping not to buy a new cable, but when I saw that rubber gator was loose I knew there would be trouble as once water/dirt gets in it causes problems, although I'm happy with how it works at the moment :-)
As ever a really in depth illustrated tutorial, especially handy to the Skoda, Vag group owners but basic principles are mostly the same. Hope you get a full service, and possibly a remap and feel much better soon! All the hard work you put in is certainly appreciated 💪🏻
Thanks, I certainly need a remap or a re-boot or something. Anyway I keep waking up breathing, so that's good :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey it’s a starting point……..
That's a good guide thank you, I did that on my Roomster last year ready for MOT, but as you mentioned my problem was due to one half of the cable beginning to fail, fairly straightforward to change, although the centre console on Roomster is a bit different and can be a pain to remove 😁 We do appreciate your videos, hope you are feeling better soon, best wishes, Chris
Thanks Chris most appreciated as I stayed up last night compiling the video which is a bit long and took forever to upload, hence why it is later than my usual 6.00am uploads and I'm tired out now this morning so will take it easy :-)
As always,
perfect tutorial Harvey! Thank you for unselfishly sharing your knowledge, worth a lot of 💰!
Although, on my Fabia, I don't have "disk" brakes, on the back wheels, but that older, closed system. My handbrake, works only on "higher" position, 8-th click, and more...
I know that some mechanics, here, "shorten" the cables, and that way, handbrake funkcions again, on lower positions, and changing the whole system is prolonged, until it wears out completely, after some time...
Thanks, the drums are fine as long as you use them regularly, if the self adjust mechanism isn't working then I would take the hub off, check the pistons for leaks, clean everything up around the adjusters by removing the build up of rust/brake dust, free up and re-adjust. Give the pads a good rub with dry emery paper - Job done! If I had some I would show you how, maybe one day :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks again for detailed instructions Harvey, will try it with a friend!
Great Video, many thanks. I own a 55 plate Vrs and your videos have been really helpful in helping me to repair it myself. Keep em coming. Hope your health problems clear up meanwhile. 👍
Thank you Martin, really appreciate that. The VRS is a great car :-)
Thanks for the video - just used it on my Skoda, handbrake brake completely seized. Working fine now!
That is great to hear, hope my video helped a little :-)
The return springs fixed all the issues I had with mine, I changed the drums the whole assembly kit, cables and adjusted over and over again and I’d either have a working handbrake with dragging breaks, or a handbrake that barely held but didn’t drag.
Thanks for sharing that 👍
More tutorials of this fabia 1 thanks!!
As always, good quality content. Keep it up 👍
Thanks, I will endeavour to do just that :-)
Good video Harvey. I tried the return springs but eventually had to replace the calipers due to sticking.
Thanks, it was harder to upload with it being a bit long so sorry it was published later than usual. I'll probably go for new cables, but may have a go with the spring just for fun :-)
Thank you so much! I was waiting for exactly this tutorial
No problem 😊
A huge thank you for this very informational video, good sir.
You're very welcome, glad it was helpful :-)
Harvey stay healthy😉
Thanks mate, appreciate that, I'm trying to be as healthy as possible under the circumstances ;-]
Man I just saw light on your front door inside trim. I only have reflector in this part :D
Love your videos, I apply a lot of your tips on my 2010 Fabia TDI. Keep up the good Word👍
Thanks, glad you like them :-)
Superb videos.
Don’t use copper grease on the pad contact ears etc, use the correct brake grease.
I use ceratec brake grease now for this and the slider pins.
Copper tends to harden over time and make things stick.
Thanks. Yes there are other products better than copper ease, but I grew up with the stuff and is better than grease. Permatex is what I would recommend if you want something better than copper ease, never tried ceratec, may try it :-)
@HatBoyHarvey I see some put return springs on the handbrake Arms to aid on returning them.
Got to strip my Vrs rear brakes soon as one side is sticking.
Hoping I don't need calipers!
Awesome vid! Really made my day easier. Tanks a lot.
THANKS, No problem :-)
Hey Harvey, it's me again. Just a quick question this time. Why is it mandatory to put loctite on the caliper pin bolts? Also (since I'm not english) when you say to put loctite, is this like THAT glue that dries and hardens real quick? It just surprises me that I have to put glue on a bolt... Thank you a lot for your explanation. 🙂
New bolts will come pre-painted with a locking compound as it is essential your brakes don't fall apart in use becoming dangerous for other road users and yourself. Do not put this compound anywhere else other than your wallet! :-)
Good job Hatboy
My rear pads are always tight against the discs again after doing this. I can feel the drag as I pull away and wheel is warm after a drive. Any thoughts ? Why would the discs not release to allow free rotation ? Frustrating to say the least..😮 Would like to sort it out..
Over time the pistons corrode, especially if left unused for long periods. Try using permatex on moving parts and a thorough brake fluid flush (fluid should easily flow through bleed nipple) if you've tried all this then new calipers is the only route. Not too expensive if you shop around, but easy to fit and sorts most issues out quickly. Also check the handbrake cable is releasing as that can contribute to the self adjustment mechanism stiffening up. Again replace the cables if you suspect it contributes as corrosion again can effect them. :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey I'll give that a go ...thanks !
I like your videos, they are very helpful, thank you very much Greetings
Thanks. Glad you like them :-)
Где вы были, когда у меня была фабия)
Не беспокойтесь, если вы когда-нибудь решите купить еще, я здесь :-)
Great video, thanks
Thanks, glad you liked it and found it useful :-)
شكراً جزيلاً
مرحباً بك
Спасибо, был бы благодарен если бы вы сняли видео замены заслонки V68
I got a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI 2006 and I have to admit that I'm really bad at using my handbrake. So I think my cable is stuck in a position where the brake warning comes on and off while driving. How do I fix that problem?
If you don't use the handbrake much then the brakes will most likely have seized a bit. If you jack up each rear wheel and try to rotate them you may find one or both very stiff to rotate. Concentrate on the stuff one/s. Very often it is the handbrake lever mechanism that is corroded so free that up and then you might as well clean the whole brake up too. The cable could have also become stuff which would best be a replacement.
Excellent and well communicated video. Thank you!
Thanks so much, I'm glad it was helpful:-)
@@HatBoyHarvey I had a look at your video prior to part stripping the hand brake mechism/caliper on a '07 SEAT Ibiza 1.9s.....saved me lots of time. Forewarned is forearmed, as they say!
Apologies if I missed it but what is actually making the lever on the caliper go sticky?
There is usually a number of things that can seize the brakes up which can be attributed to corrosion of parts, dirt, grim and salt from the road and depleted or dried-up lubrication. I wanted to eliminate any issues relating to the brake calipers, which I did which has only left the handbrake cable remaining needing attention. You need to do the brakes first as a process of elimination to be sure just what the issue is and in this case it looks like my initial suspicion of a failing handbrake cable was in the end the issue.
bravo my friend....
Where did you use ultra brake calliper lube? I noticed that you used copper grease only. Also, did you use brake cleaner to clean brake discs?
on the slide pins :-)
Hello, what would you suggest with the handbrake not going up and down with everything disconnected. Open everything up and clean or new calliper needed? Thanks
See if you can free up the handbrake mechanism on the back of the caliper first, then maybe have a look if the cable has seized - renew if so. You may still find you have to do the calipers if they have been left a while or too old and corroded. I wouldn't try a rebuild kit on these as they haven't got the quality and new ones are cheap:-)
Thanks for the video. I have an imbalance in my cable tensions to the point that the yoke is pulled at such an angle that one side pulls out, and then the other when the tension goes. Looking at you video it appears that there's no adjustment on the cable, so one side must have stretched more than the other. Have you ever come across this and can advise any thing else to look at, or am I looking at new cables?
I've got a new cable for mine as it was also out of line a bit. I will be fitting this soon and will post a video. I want to see if it is possible to only replace one cable at a time and if it is worth doing it or not. I always renewed in pairs before.
@@HatBoyHarvey cheers, someone else pointed out that one of my cables or the arm mechanism might have seized in the 'on' position, causing it to go slack when the handbrake is released.
@@thomasbussey5824 Skoda rear brakes seem poor - our drive is on an incline. Need to rebuild the rear brakes twice yearly. Don't have the problem on the Mazda - parked next to it on same incline. Front passenger side seizing now.
17:34 what is this ? what is it oil ?
Use brake fluid to clean around the seals :-)
@@HatBoyHarveyAaa OK, I didn't know that ;) thanks for the answer.
I don't understand handbreak adjustment. You said lose the bolt in the cabin until there is 0 space and metal touching metal. and then you said to tighten this cabin bolt until there is 2mm of space between metal.
Doesn't make any sense. Because when you lose this bolt, and metal is touching metal, how can you get 2mm of space between then.. There is no differene if you lose this bolt and tighten it again without exiting from the cabin.
The 2mm space is at the rear hub, you have to keep checking as you tighten up the adjustment from inside.
How to open the hood of a car. When the line is broken.
Yes, that is always a testing one, never done it on a fabia, but will look into that for a video, thanks :-)
Я бы отдал в эти руки свои авто
большое спасибо :-)
Жаль что мы далеко друг от друга, вы профессионал своего дела, и многое я сделал благодаря вашему видео, у меня шкода 😁