Not only is this functional but it is absolutely a piece of unique beauty. Anyone would be proud to have this in their study and not even in their shop.....I think the Milling machine was a game changer. It looks as if you havee ben able to make the castings look so great and accurate....
Now this was a nice tool post! I realy like this construction. Minimal overhang and practically no more parts than a fixed post. Easy to scale up and down to any lathe and any tools. I will make one..
You videos are great to watch for building the gingery lathe, I almost built one. My picture is of the ways being scraped in, but you definately made it further than me having a functioning machine. I broke down and bought a southbend on craigslist for 500, when I started with Dave that seemed like a fortune! I would love to see you build the shaper as they can't be found readily like a lathe.
Also, nothing wrong with buying a lathe, especially a nice southbend. I'm glad I didn't buy a bigger lathe, as we recently moved and that would have been such a pain in the a** to relocate haha... Anyways, I think the most beneficial part of the series is learning how to cast your own parts - something I'll be doing for my own projects moving forward. The shaper looks like a really neat build, and you can find some videos on it. My wife bought me a mini mill, so I probably won't build it :(
Thank you for the video. Nothing better than watching someone create their own tools. I see you heard this before but even an edited hacksaw segment is painful. You know they make power saws. But I'm sure you'll fab a very nice one. Post a video.
I wouldn't say its a gingery lathe, Morgan added a whole bunch of other cool stuff and modified the design to make it more rigid, far better than the original gingery design. Personally I'd call it a Demers lathe rather than gingery just because of how awesome it is, he's gone above and beyond making the lathe the best that he can and is humble enough to show us every step he's taken to get here.
Morgan: Great videos. I'm inspired by your DIY spirit and the stuff you have built. A couple things came to mind when watching this one: Use your mill when tapping to keep the tap in alignment, this makes it much easier. After drilling you can put the tap in the chuck and manually turn it, or use a tap guide in the chuck. Just to get the tap started straight. How about a slitting saw arbor for the Mill? It could replace a lot of hack sawing and make very nice cuts. You may want to look for a high sulfur cutting fluid for steel. Very nice work on the QCTP, it shows what your lathe and skills are capable of.
Thanks for the comment bendavanza it's much appreciated, Good call on using the mill ( or the lathe ) to assist in tapping holes accurately and on center, I'll definitely give that a try next chance I have. Yes, a slitting saw arbor / saw for my Mill would be a great addition, and would do a better job than the hacksaw for sure, thanks for the recommendation. I recently looked at some and they are fairly reasonable in price, and I'll definitely be getting some saws & an arbor soon. Cheers, Morgan
If you take a look at the 'making the permanent spindle' video, you'll see that I have a flat milled on the spindle nose such that the accessories get mounted back in the same place each time. If the lathe wasn't producing good results ( the QCTP turned out awesome ) I would beat my head around reducing the 0.002" runout, but it's working fine now and I'll probably focus on other projects until it becomes an issue. Thanks for the advice though, I'll keep the backplate in mind for sure.
Totally, I'm glad you can still get the Gingery books on Amazon, but if I had more time I probably would have bought some of the other books from Lindsay. I so enjoyed getting the catalog from time to time.
... If everything is looking good with your spindle & chuck, you should then make sure all the gibs are adjusted properly, etc... Before I made the permanent spindle for my lathe I had about 0.005" of runout in the temporary spindle which was causing some issues when cutting toward at the headstock end of things - definitely noticeable wobble there, but splitting my spindle bearings for a better fit, and making the bigger permanent spindle definitely helped out a lot.
That tool holder is awsome i spent 1500 on a lathe and mine has really bad run out like yours from the three jaw chuck i want to get some dogs and turn between centers and allso get a four jaw chuck
Normally I just give videos like this a thumb's up, and move along... Morgan, you just did a great job, and I LIKE this video, and it's so SIMPLE!!! Thank you sir, I'm sharing this all over my 'Net accounts!
You may need to recut the register that the chuck rests on when it is tightened I can see the runout in the reflection of the chuck when it is spinning. Nice work on the tool post! A dial indicator would be a useful tool as well.
Hey Malcolm, thanks for the reply. Technically I didn't buy the mill, my wife surprised me with one as I kept ranting on about how it would speed up my lathe project :) haha. If she hadn't I probably would be thinking about building the gingery horizontal mill at this point - or devising a milling attachment for the lathe. That being said, the cost of the cheapest horizontal bandsaw is reasonable enough, so at some point I'll probably just buy one of those when I have some extra funds. Morgan
Glad you like the videos, I think I took a 4 month break due to frustration with hand scraping. You almost need a mentor at first to get an idea of how it should be done - it's more of a feel, than anything you can read in a book. I'm glad I stuck with it, but it has taken a long time to get to this point - moreso due to family related time constraints - work and 2 kiddos make it hard to get in the basement at times :)
Just awesome, I think you could build an engine with a screw driver, a pair of pliers and a hammer. Great video and the end result is obvious as to what you can accomplish. I recently acquired an old mini lathe and just bought a quick change tool holder for it. I think yours would work just a well. Keep on keeping on. Ken...Marina CA
I don't have a 4 jaw chuck yet, though definitely desirable. Gingery has some plans in book #6 for a cast aluminum 4 jaw chuck which I may attempt to build, otherwise I'll definitely end up buying one at some point. Even with this video, it would have been much nicer to use a 4 jaw chuck to hold the tool holder for the boring operation, versus having to clamp it to the faceplate. Cheers, Morgan
I haven't noticed much of an accuracy problem, but I haven't done anything extremely accurate on the machine up to this point. I can't be sure if it is just the work piece or the chuck. If you look at the chuck only in the video it is harder to detect, and on the second pass not as much or no wobble - I did check and re-tighten the setscrew backplate at one point in the build, that could have been after that pass, though not 100% sure at this point.
Now just make 3 or 4 more of the bit holders so it is actually a quick change. If you don't you will have to adjust the tool height with every bit changeout.
I hear that, I'll probably be using the lathe a lot more for projects at this point - versus building the lathe, and will be cutting larger diameter stock to parts I'm sure, etc... At some point I'll most likely buy one for the sake of time ( and to give my arm a break ).
You made the lathe, bought the mill, what about making a power hacksaw or metal cutting bandsaw to save you having to use the strong arm saw. Unless you do it for the arm muscle work out. Malcolm Malcolm
Morgan, your good, just like our Morgan cars. keep it up mate, I really like your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort, people like me find them a great help. Some know alls are just mean minded. Keep it up mate. All the best to you and yours, Colin.UK.
Well how it is in the video is how far it has to be in order to not run the cross slide into the chuck. With the new toolpost it is no longer an issue and I keep just the cutting edge out. Most people using the lantern style will also have the lantern style tool holders for it which get you to where I wanted to be, closer to the chuck. Glad you like the videos - I definitely value the lathe, I put a lot of time in, and I'll be able to use it to do some real work so it was definitely worth it.
Nice job done with patience. Guess you need a bit bigger lathe for this kind of work. I wouldn't bother to make this part except for self education or demonstration purposes just because same part on sale cost less than time needed to make this. Happy turning and milling :-)
Well clearly that was one of the main reasons for making the toolpost - without it I had to have it overhang like that to cut close enough to the chuck for the work being done. Thanks for the concern though, believe me, I hold safety with the highest regard - I have two young kids after all that I want to see grow up. Best Regards, Morgan
Thanks for the reply. I do in fact have a dial indicator, and if you watched any of my other videos you will see it used quite a bit to verify the accuracy of the machine as I'm going along. Anyways, I just tested out the check and took a quick video, the runout as indicated is about 0.002" which is within the tolerances of the chuck itself - possibly a wobbly camera is what you are seeing - video verifying the 0.002" runout - youtu[dot]be/GpQDuz3EA54 - replace the [dot] with a .
Good job mr Demers, you always have good vids. I have a mini lathe and mill too, they are lots of fun just putzing around and making cool little tools. I wish I had room for one of the bigger ones, but I don't right now, and besides, everyone around here in Albuquerque think they are made of gold when they want to sell them ! haha. Keep up the good work pal :)
Excellent video... I've been thinking about buying a tool holder from A-Z for my craftsman lathe, but after watching this vid, I'm convinced I'll do it myself. One question though, I don't have a mill, and I don't have collets to hold an endmill in my lathe... but I do have a 4 jaw. Do you think it would work to put an endmill in the 4 jaw and true it up? or is there a better way to cut the slot for the tool holder? Also, I think I'd put a more permanent handle on the rotation lock nut, so you don't have to search for a wrench every time you want to loosen and rotate it.
make an end mill holder for your chuck. years ago I did that for a tap. taps, end mills sorta the same idea. they are both very hard metals and will slip in your chuck. so I made a piece my tap fit into perfectly and then drilled and tapped into the side a set screw to lock down on the flat spot of the tap so it wouldn't rotate in my holder. I am going to make a bunch soon to fit all the taps and end mills
Hey, sorry on the video link - youtube doesn't allow links in comments so you would have had to have copied and pasted it to the address bar replacing the [dot] with an actual period. I'll message you the link. Anyways, the runout as tested is 0.002" which I think is acceptable for the machine. The test cert. for the chuck has the permissible runout as 0.0016" and as tested 0.001". I believe my spindle nose has 0.001" runout anyways though I'd have to test it again.
Cool on the power hacksaw - I saw a book with some horizontal bandsaw designs in the Lindsay publications catalogs when they were still in business. At this point the cost of the cheapest horizontal bandsaw is reasonable enough that at some point I'll probably just buy one so I can get to other more desirable projects. I do subscribe to MyFordBoy's Channel, he as a lot of good videos / information for sure. If you haven't seen it, mrpete222's channels fantastic ( tubalcain )
Also, what kind of lathe did you make - completely from scratch or did you follow some plans like the Gingery Lathe. Is that 0.5 mm or .05 mm? If 0.05 mm that's not too bad, about 2 thousandths - my cheap chinese 3-jaw chuck has 0.002" of runout anyways not considering the lathe. You must have a dial indicator, get a magnetic base if you don't have one. Put it on the ways and test your spindle nose and then chuck for runout. Also try and move the spindle back and forth and see the deflection.
I looked for the video you posted but couldn't find it however I did go back and watch your other build vids. I think I found where the error (just trying to help) was introduced. When you made the back plate you changed setup before you bored for the spindle. The small face that rests against the spinde is critical and needs the be cut in the same chucking. Do the set screws always fall in the same spot on the spindle? If this were my machine I would like to see a threaded spindle and backplate
nice job just one tip when you drill a hole on your mill chuck up the tap and us the mill.drill press to start you tap you will tap hole perfectly parallel you are loving life now keep chipping away! jamminjeff
invest in a small boring bar for the mill then holes get real fun also a holder for boring tool is rougher easy one that i found handy one straight one with rake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do agree. A 4-1/2" angle grinder will serve you well Morgan. I used angle grinder cut off discs and then found a used Band saw. That said, I still have a 4-1/2" angle grinder set up specially as a cut off tool. Use an angle grinder and then clean it up on the mill. The HF grinders work fine and will only set you back 25.00. Once you start using one, you'll never look back. Always use eye protection with them. They will get crap in your eyes. Good video and thanks for posting.
That's awesome, it seems like such a trivial device that would have been created with some of the earliest lathes - is it this one: www.google.com/patents/US10939, there are tons of patents by people making lathe dog improvements.
Cool, I saw an article in the nytimes about it when searching for it, I'd imagine most people able to invent new things would have a multitude of inventions. Where are you guys at?
Hey Elio, Thanks for the comment. Definitely no worries on the calipers, those are the $9 Harbor Freight variety, and it definitely won't be much of an expense get more as need be - if it was a Starrett I would be much more careful. Cheers, Morgan
hey morgan on 4:00 i´ve noticed some shaking and wobbling on chuck... did you have some problems with accuracy? im doing a homemade lathe its been a hell to make very accurate chuck spin i have .0.5 mm error!!! and i cant fix!
It's a quick change tool post, because you end up making tool holders for each type of tool, and then you only loosen up the mounting clamp, and switch out the tool holder - you don't have to loosen the bolts to quick change unless you only have one holder for the post...
No wobble in the chuck at 19:04, it is because the piece being turned is not true - it was just a piece of aluminum I had lying around to test it out real quick - look just at the chuck. sorry about the lighting, just moved and is a new shop and I need to install some utility lights.
@6:11. Nice workout. Check out MyFordBoy's channel. He has a design for a power recip hack saw that's an attachment to his lathe. Might be a perfect add on to your uber cool lathe.
I hear that, I just got the chuck mounted on the lathe and wanted to test it out. Typically I would machine between centers on this particular lathe for long pieces.
The lathe is said to be the only machine that could replicate itself. Too bad I never see this. SOMEBODY always whips out a milling machine to make a part. Nice job though.
I did enjoy your video! I have to ask though, is the red stuff on the end of the piece of metal at 6:01 blood? That's what happens to me if I try to use a hack saw for any length of time. I'm extra impressed by you getting through that hunk of metal with such a crude device. I direct you to "hacksaw" on the following page: www.mez.co.uk/haynes.html
Hey Jeff, Thanks for the comment. No it wasn't blood ( it was a drop, possibly a bad cut ), though I probably did get a blister or two from cutting through that piece of metal with a hacksaw. Checking out your link now. Cheers, Morgan
Very interesting design. Now u just need to make 'n' blocks for 'n' tools ... Simple, effective and not expensive idea ! Btw, which milling machine is that ?
Thanks for the comment, not my original design but it is a nice toolpost and as need be I can make new blocks for tools, etc... If I didn't have a milling machine this toolpost could have still be made with just the lathe itself ( To cut the slot you would mount the block to the post, and use the spindle with an endmill holder to mill the slot ) which is nice. The Mill is a Grizzly Mini Mill ( G8689 ).
I watched many of your videos. Congratulations for the lathe work ! I have also a little machining channel where you can see some interesting thing hope you will like it :-)
Not only is this functional but it is absolutely a piece of unique beauty. Anyone would be proud to have this in their study and not even in their shop.....I think the Milling machine was a game changer. It looks as if you havee ben able to make the castings look so great and accurate....
Now this was a nice tool post! I realy like this construction. Minimal overhang and practically no more parts than a fixed post. Easy to scale up and down to any lathe and any tools. I will make one..
Wait - this guy made his own lathe?? Mad props to you sir.
You videos are great to watch for building the gingery lathe, I almost built one. My picture is of the ways being scraped in, but you definately made it further than me having a functioning machine. I broke down and bought a southbend on craigslist for 500, when I started with Dave that seemed like a fortune! I would love to see you build the shaper as they can't be found readily like a lathe.
I made a few of these for my 9x20 lathe, they are excellent.
Also, nothing wrong with buying a lathe, especially a nice southbend. I'm glad I didn't buy a bigger lathe, as we recently moved and that would have been such a pain in the a** to relocate haha... Anyways, I think the most beneficial part of the series is learning how to cast your own parts - something I'll be doing for my own projects moving forward. The shaper looks like a really neat build, and you can find some videos on it. My wife bought me a mini mill, so I probably won't build it :(
Thank you for the video. Nothing better than watching someone create their own tools. I see you heard this before but even an edited hacksaw segment is painful. You know they make power saws. But I'm sure you'll fab a very nice one. Post a video.
Well done! First time I've seen a Gingery lathe in operation.
I wouldn't say its a gingery lathe, Morgan added a whole bunch of other cool stuff and modified the design to make it more rigid, far better than the original gingery design. Personally I'd call it a Demers lathe rather than gingery just because of how awesome it is, he's gone above and beyond making the lathe the best that he can and is humble enough to show us every step he's taken to get here.
Wow were have you been. On the funny flower site. Lol
Morgan:
Great videos. I'm inspired by your DIY spirit and the stuff you have built. A couple things came to mind when watching this one:
Use your mill when tapping to keep the tap in alignment, this makes it much easier. After drilling you can put the tap in the chuck and manually turn it, or use a tap guide in the chuck. Just to get the tap started straight.
How about a slitting saw arbor for the Mill? It could replace a lot of hack sawing and make very nice cuts.
You may want to look for a high sulfur cutting fluid for steel.
Very nice work on the QCTP, it shows what your lathe and skills are capable of.
Thanks for the comment bendavanza it's much appreciated,
Good call on using the mill ( or the lathe ) to assist in tapping holes accurately and on center, I'll definitely give that a try next chance I have.
Yes, a slitting saw arbor / saw for my Mill would be a great addition, and would do a better job than the hacksaw for sure, thanks for the recommendation. I recently looked at some and they are fairly reasonable in price, and I'll definitely be getting some saws & an arbor soon.
Cheers,
Morgan
If you take a look at the 'making the permanent spindle' video, you'll see that I have a flat milled on the spindle nose such that the accessories get mounted back in the same place each time. If the lathe wasn't producing good results ( the QCTP turned out awesome ) I would beat my head around reducing the 0.002" runout, but it's working fine now and I'll probably focus on other projects until it becomes an issue. Thanks for the advice though, I'll keep the backplate in mind for sure.
Totally, I'm glad you can still get the Gingery books on Amazon, but if I had more time I probably would have bought some of the other books from Lindsay. I so enjoyed getting the catalog from time to time.
Very nice work Morgan. Really nice.
... If everything is looking good with your spindle & chuck, you should then make sure all the gibs are adjusted properly, etc... Before I made the permanent spindle for my lathe I had about 0.005" of runout in the temporary spindle which was causing some issues when cutting toward at the headstock end of things - definitely noticeable wobble there, but splitting my spindle bearings for a better fit, and making the bigger permanent spindle definitely helped out a lot.
That tool holder is awsome i spent 1500 on a lathe and mine has really bad run out like yours from the three jaw chuck i want to get some dogs and turn between centers and allso get a four jaw chuck
Normally I just give videos like this a thumb's up, and move along...
Morgan, you just did a great job, and I LIKE this video, and it's so SIMPLE!!! Thank you sir, I'm sharing this all over my 'Net accounts!
Thanks for the comment Jim, I'm glad you liked the video. Definitely makes it worth the time getting comments like this! Cheers, Morgan
I bought a 6X4 bandsaw, they need a bit tweaking, but it is now the most useful item in the shop.
You may need to recut the register that the chuck rests on when it is tightened I can see the runout in the reflection of the chuck when it is spinning. Nice work on the tool post! A dial indicator would be a useful tool as well.
Hey Malcolm, thanks for the reply. Technically I didn't buy the mill, my wife surprised me with one as I kept ranting on about how it would speed up my lathe project :) haha. If she hadn't I probably would be thinking about building the gingery horizontal mill at this point - or devising a milling attachment for the lathe.
That being said, the cost of the cheapest horizontal bandsaw is reasonable enough, so at some point I'll probably just buy one of those when I have some extra funds.
Morgan
Nice simple and ridgid. I like that tool post.
Glad you like the videos, I think I took a 4 month break due to frustration with hand scraping. You almost need a mentor at first to get an idea of how it should be done - it's more of a feel, than anything you can read in a book. I'm glad I stuck with it, but it has taken a long time to get to this point - moreso due to family related time constraints - work and 2 kiddos make it hard to get in the basement at times :)
Just awesome, I think you could build an engine with a screw driver, a pair of pliers and a hammer. Great video and the end result is obvious as to what you can accomplish. I recently acquired an old mini lathe and just bought a quick change tool holder for it. I think yours would work just a well. Keep on keeping on.
Ken...Marina CA
I don't have a 4 jaw chuck yet, though definitely desirable. Gingery has some plans in book #6 for a cast aluminum 4 jaw chuck which I may attempt to build, otherwise I'll definitely end up buying one at some point. Even with this video, it would have been much nicer to use a 4 jaw chuck to hold the tool holder for the boring operation, versus having to clamp it to the faceplate.
Cheers,
Morgan
I haven't noticed much of an accuracy problem, but I haven't done anything extremely accurate on the machine up to this point. I can't be sure if it is just the work piece or the chuck. If you look at the chuck only in the video it is harder to detect, and on the second pass not as much or no wobble - I did check and re-tighten the setscrew backplate at one point in the build, that could have been after that pass, though not 100% sure at this point.
Now just make 3 or 4 more of the bit holders so it is actually a quick change. If you don't you will have to adjust the tool height with every bit changeout.
I'm so bummed Lindsay went away. I just found out last week when I was going to show a friend where to get those great old books.
I like your washers on your tool post. I did the same thing until I could make a real ring for my tool post.
Nice Job. I'm on the fence between one like yours and an AXA wedge tool post.
I hear that, I'll probably be using the lathe a lot more for projects at this point - versus building the lathe, and will be cutting larger diameter stock to parts I'm sure, etc... At some point I'll most likely buy one for the sake of time ( and to give my arm a break ).
You made the lathe, bought the mill, what about making a power hacksaw or metal cutting bandsaw to save you having to use the strong arm saw. Unless you do it for the arm muscle work out.
Malcolm
Malcolm
Morgan, your good, just like our Morgan cars. keep it up mate, I really like your videos. Thanks for putting in the time and effort, people like me find them a great help. Some know alls are just mean minded. Keep it up mate.
All the best to you and yours, Colin.UK.
Well how it is in the video is how far it has to be in order to not run the cross slide into the chuck. With the new toolpost it is no longer an issue and I keep just the cutting edge out. Most people using the lantern style will also have the lantern style tool holders for it which get you to where I wanted to be, closer to the chuck.
Glad you like the videos - I definitely value the lathe, I put a lot of time in, and I'll be able to use it to do some real work so it was definitely worth it.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work
A live centre will also be a good investment
nice job
Nice job done with patience. Guess you need a bit bigger lathe for this kind of work.
I wouldn't bother to make this part except for self education or demonstration purposes just because same part on sale cost less than time needed to make this.
Happy turning and milling :-)
There is an old machinist say "We make the things we can buy, to prepare us for the things we cannot"
Well clearly that was one of the main reasons for making the toolpost - without it I had to have it overhang like that to cut close enough to the chuck for the work being done. Thanks for the concern though, believe me, I hold safety with the highest regard - I have two young kids after all that I want to see grow up. Best Regards, Morgan
Thanks for the reply. I do in fact have a dial indicator, and if you watched any of my other videos you will see it used quite a bit to verify the accuracy of the machine as I'm going along. Anyways, I just tested out the check and took a quick video, the runout as indicated is about 0.002" which is within the tolerances of the chuck itself - possibly a wobbly camera is what you are seeing - video verifying the 0.002" runout - youtu[dot]be/GpQDuz3EA54 - replace the [dot] with a .
Thanks for posting this. Good work
I like it a lot, and I'll try making one. Thanks for the video.
your lathe sure is quiet when running. Great video, thanks.
Great job! Thanks for posting.
Good job mr Demers, you always have good vids. I have a mini lathe and mill too, they are lots of fun just putzing around and making cool little tools. I wish I had room for one of the bigger ones, but I don't right now, and besides, everyone around here in Albuquerque think they are made of gold when they want to sell them ! haha. Keep up the good work pal :)
Excellent video... I've been thinking about buying a tool holder from A-Z for my craftsman lathe, but after watching this vid, I'm convinced I'll do it myself. One question though, I don't have a mill, and I don't have collets to hold an endmill in my lathe... but I do have a 4 jaw. Do you think it would work to put an endmill in the 4 jaw and true it up? or is there a better way to cut the slot for the tool holder? Also, I think I'd put a more permanent handle on the rotation lock nut, so you don't have to search for a wrench every time you want to loosen and rotate it.
make an end mill holder for your chuck. years ago I did that for a tap. taps, end mills sorta the same idea. they are both very hard metals and will slip in your chuck. so I made a piece my tap fit into perfectly and then drilled and tapped into the side a set screw to lock down on the flat spot of the tap so it wouldn't rotate in my holder. I am going to make a bunch soon to fit all the taps and end mills
Hey, sorry on the video link - youtube doesn't allow links in comments so you would have had to have copied and pasted it to the address bar replacing the [dot] with an actual period. I'll message you the link. Anyways, the runout as tested is 0.002" which I think is acceptable for the machine. The test cert. for the chuck has the permissible runout as 0.0016" and as tested 0.001". I believe my spindle nose has 0.001" runout anyways though I'd have to test it again.
it's been said before, i'll say it again...
Great Video!!!
a little ingenuity and some materials can go a long way.
Yes Sir that's nice. Make a good project for me to put it on my DB200.
Cool on the power hacksaw - I saw a book with some horizontal bandsaw designs in the Lindsay publications catalogs when they were still in business. At this point the cost of the cheapest horizontal bandsaw is reasonable enough that at some point I'll probably just buy one so I can get to other more desirable projects. I do subscribe to MyFordBoy's Channel, he as a lot of good videos / information for sure. If you haven't seen it, mrpete222's channels fantastic ( tubalcain )
Also, what kind of lathe did you make - completely from scratch or did you follow some plans like the Gingery Lathe. Is that 0.5 mm or .05 mm? If 0.05 mm that's not too bad, about 2 thousandths - my cheap chinese 3-jaw chuck has 0.002" of runout anyways not considering the lathe.
You must have a dial indicator, get a magnetic base if you don't have one. Put it on the ways and test your spindle nose and then chuck for runout. Also try and move the spindle back and forth and see the deflection.
I looked for the video you posted but couldn't find it however I did go back and watch your other build vids. I think I found where the error (just trying to help) was introduced. When you made the back plate you changed setup before you bored for the spindle. The small face that rests against the spinde is critical and needs the be cut in the same chucking. Do the set screws always fall in the same spot on the spindle? If this were my machine I would like to see a threaded spindle and backplate
on 19:04 and further the same.
Great video!!!
But can you set more lamps? Please
I absolutely think this is amazing...
nice job just one tip when you drill a hole on your mill chuck up the tap and us the mill.drill press to start you tap you will tap hole perfectly parallel you are loving life now keep chipping away! jamminjeff
Гениально и просто, молодец
Этого решения Я и искал
invest in a small boring bar for the mill then holes get real fun also a holder for boring tool is rougher easy one that i found handy one straight one with rake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
by the way, those qctp look great.
Each knife another. You do not need to change the blade.
You poor guy ! hack saws are old school, A small angle grinder with a 1mm wide cutoff wheel makes cutting steel a breeze. Cheers :)
I do agree. A 4-1/2" angle grinder will serve you well Morgan. I used angle grinder cut off discs and then found a used Band saw. That said, I still have a 4-1/2" angle grinder set up specially as a cut off tool. Use an angle grinder and then clean it up on the mill. The HF grinders work fine and will only set you back 25.00. Once you start using one, you'll never look back. Always use eye protection with them. They will get crap in your eyes.
Good video and thanks for posting.
You had to do the three blades
That's awesome, it seems like such a trivial device that would have been created with some of the earliest lathes - is it this one: www.google.com/patents/US10939, there are tons of patents by people making lathe dog improvements.
Cool, I saw an article in the nytimes about it when searching for it, I'd imagine most people able to invent new things would have a multitude of inventions. Where are you guys at?
Cool, if ever I'm in the area during working hours I'll hit you up
get a band saw, you'll find it very helpfull, i used to cut 1"thick aluminium by hand. just thinking of it my arms start to hurt...
Nice work, just 1 question. Have you ever used your mill to tap. I find it easier to get a pretty threaded hole
DO you have a 4 jaw chuck? Once I got mine and became proficient in centering stock, even square stock, I never use my 3 jaw except for cheap thrills.
Hello from Brazil.
Congratulations, great video.
Very good.
I built a hydraulic QCTP, seen like that?
I haven't seen a hydraulic QCTP, is it automated for a CNC machine? If you have a video send it over I'd love to check it out.
Best,
Morgan
You did a good job, though, I think that the sooner you will need to buy a new caliber seen the use you make of it.
Hey Elio, Thanks for the comment. Definitely no worries on the calipers, those are the $9 Harbor Freight variety, and it definitely won't be much of an expense get more as need be - if it was a Starrett I would be much more careful. Cheers, Morgan
Hadn't seen a video from you in awhile, thought maybe you had "passed thru the Vail"!
Hai fatto un buon lavoro, anche se, credo che quanto prima dovrai comprare un nuovo calibro visto l'uso che ne fai.
hey morgan on 4:00 i´ve noticed some shaking and wobbling on chuck... did you have some problems with accuracy? im doing a homemade lathe its been a hell to make very accurate chuck spin i have .0.5 mm error!!! and i cant fix!
Cool video, What is that thing called that helps you center the drill press over your mark?
That wasn't a drill press, that was a milling machine. That tool is called a Center finder. It is similar to an edge finder.
cool thanks
well done!!!
dude!! amazing video...!!
what is the centering tool called that you had chucked in you mill to center wookpiece that was centerpunched?
good jobs. i from Brazil i made one QCTP on your
nice work, but in what way is that Quick change? you need to undo the bolts to change your tool, this is more of a quick setup toolpost
It's a quick change tool post, because you end up making tool holders for each type of tool, and then you only loosen up the mounting clamp, and switch out the tool holder - you don't have to loosen the bolts to quick change unless you only have one holder for the post...
No wobble in the chuck at 19:04, it is because the piece being turned is not true - it was just a piece of aluminum I had lying around to test it out real quick - look just at the chuck.
sorry about the lighting, just moved and is a new shop and I need to install some utility lights.
@6:11. Nice workout. Check out MyFordBoy's channel. He has a design for a power recip hack saw that's an attachment to his lathe. Might be a perfect add on to your uber cool lathe.
you should REALLY work between centers when machining anything longer than an inch or two
I hear that, I just got the chuck mounted on the lathe and wanted to test it out. Typically I would machine between centers on this particular lathe for long pieces.
good job sorry i am going to copy your idea so simple great job mate
The lathe is said to be the only machine that could replicate itself. Too bad I never see this. SOMEBODY always whips out a milling machine to make a part. Nice job though.
I've always taken that old saying as a semi-truth. If you have a lathe with a cross slide milling attachment, then yes, otherwise not a prayer.
Dang, now I feel like I wasted money on that phase 2 QCTP set I just got...
three blades? what?
I did enjoy your video! I have to ask though, is the red stuff on the end of the piece of metal at 6:01 blood? That's what happens to me if I try to use a hack saw for any length of time. I'm extra impressed by you getting through that hunk of metal with such a crude device. I direct you to "hacksaw" on the following page: www.mez.co.uk/haynes.html
Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the comment. No it wasn't blood ( it was a drop, possibly a bad cut ), though I probably did get a blister or two from cutting through that piece of metal with a hacksaw. Checking out your link now.
Cheers,
Morgan
Very interesting design. Now u just need to make 'n' blocks for 'n' tools ... Simple, effective and not expensive idea ! Btw, which milling machine is that ?
Thanks for the comment, not my original design but it is a nice toolpost and as need be I can make new blocks for tools, etc... If I didn't have a milling machine this toolpost could have still be made with just the lathe itself ( To cut the slot you would mount the block to the post, and use the spindle with an endmill holder to mill the slot ) which is nice. The Mill is a Grizzly Mini Mill ( G8689 ).
I watched many of your videos. Congratulations for the lathe work !
I have also a little machining channel where you can see some interesting thing hope you will like it :-)
Please don't wear gloves when operating a lathe......nice work.
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