Gotta love mystery metal. I bought about 80kg of 4, 6 and 8"∅ round bar offcuts from a local metal recyclers a couple years ago. I've got no idea what this stuff is, and neither did he, but because of the uncertainty about what it actually is, it was dirt cheap........ and that's my second favourite price ! :D Apparently about a ton and a half of the offcuts came in as part of a scrap metal consignment from an aero engine manufacturer, so god only knows what kind of freaky metal alloy it is. The stuff holds a magnet like mild steel, it's a nightmare to machine, dulls bandsaw blades in a heartbeat, eats lathe tool inserts like a fat kid going at candy, and absolutely refuses to rust. My best guess is that it'd some grade of Chromoly. So far I've only really used some of the stuff to make a couple of 4" V belt pulleys, and that was incredibly hard going. I did contemplate making some large V blocks from some of the 8" lumps, but I REALLY couldn't face doing that much machining on any of this stuff ! :D
Nicely done! On my shop-built QCTP I placed a thin roller bearing thrust washer between the tool post clamping nut and the tool post clamping surface, in this case it would be the top of the conical plug. This eliminated the tendency of the tool post to rotate with the tightening of its clamp, especially if there was oil between the bottom of the tool post and the top of the compound rest. And it reduced the clamping torque required at the handle, tremendously. Further, using square headed set screws for tool clamping eliminates the need to pick swarf from the screw sockets.
@@davidwillard7334 Certainly swarf got into the sockets of the tool clamping screws which, for some reason, I found really annoying. As to the roller thrust washer, there never has been a problem with swarf getting into it. This bearing is at the bottom of a recess in the tool post, and the clamping nut is a close fit in this recess. If necessary I could have fitted an O-ring on the clamping nut for a seal, but I did not find this necessary. After I fitted the thrust roller washer, I was astounded at the reduced torque needed to fix the tool post.
Nicely done. Every body has the machines they can afford or can get their hands on. Not everybody can get or afford an Aloris or a Kurt vise or a lot of other things. So we have to have what we can have and make do with what we can make from the materials we can get. So all round this a first class effort and I look forward to watching what else you have.
Nice video and presentation. I gave up the solid hollow cone idea based on the contact junction isn’t area contact but a line contact. When you have time do a blue ink test and you know what I mean. Also chips can trap in the expansion slot preventing it from closing and release of holder.
@@DIEmicrosoft yes that would work but then the taper would stay in the block just like if you put tools in the tailstock. I think it has to be more that 16.5° to pop out of there by itself
Because the cone is short, and only expands the top of the block, it is not a true wedge design. The cone should be longer, but that would cause 'sticking' and need positive extraction. Which is why most wedge designs involve a sliding ramped wedge.
Thanks for sharing this. It's a very interesting and accessible design. I think I can make it entirely on the lathe if I to a bit of tomfoolery to mill the dovetails. That's awesome!
I really enjoyed this! Your workshop looks and sounds like mine! Less than perfect compared to Joe Py, Stefan Gotteswinter or Mr Crispin for instance. Nevertheless, gets the job done - eventually. Just a bit concerned about the placement of the internal expander cone. I think it should be lower down so as to force the ways open at the level of the toolholder. Same as Федор Сухов commented. Anyway, thanks very much for this. It is inspiring! I plan to make similar and smaller for my Taig lathe.
Thanks, thought long and hard about this, along with multiple CAD iterations. Wanted to strike a balance between the radial expanding force of the cone, vs it's vertical clamping force and still leave space for the locating bush at the bottom. The plan was to cut the cone at the depth in the video, try it out, and adjust it deeper if clamping proved a problem, but so far it hasn't, the trick is a close fit so that you don't need all that much expansion I find
I like it a modern alternative to the lantern tool post yet we can utilize the tolling on offer on the markit the make the post on the Lathe , one's self . a must in todays world .
Really good job and engineering. Bravo for this video, I like it. Talent with speaking. Go on! Good choice for the Music ambiance. What is the music title at the end of your video please? Thank’s. Greetings from Austria
I maybe would have had a taper all the way down the middle, because as it is it's probably applying uneven pressure (more on the top and less at the bottom), kinda like splitting a log halfway. Or instead, to keep the position locking functionality, maybe make that bottom ring a cone of the same taper. Otherwise I feel your toolholders might be getting held by pressure from only one single horizontal plane, since the bottom will contract when the top expands. Hope I could get my point across.
Yes i thought exactly the same, however your idea seems to be better since my idea was to duplicate the cone for the bottom but that would be complicated
No doubt there are better designs out there (reason the wedge type or piston type are the ones commercially available) but I still advocate for the cone type as a good upgrade to a lathe with a four way toolpost. For one, it's possible to find a compromise between downward clamping pressure and radial expansion by tweaking the cone angle, while still keeping it easy to machine. The other thing is fewer parts and greater forgiveness with the tolerances. That said, it does rely on a nice fit with the tool post dovetails such that only a minor bit of radial expansion is needed to lock the tool holder in place. The better the fit, the less you'd be trying to split a log
Is there any rule about how long you can make a taper without it becoming more likely to lock in place? (Please be gentle, I'm asking in ignorance. :) )
@@ElizabethGreene I had the same question a while back. There is a figure, around 34 degrees, but it is a rubbery figure, because surface finishes come into play also.
Super cool, are the designs available I'd love to make one for my lathe as well if you're ok with and able to send some designs that would be amazing! Either way great work man!
Good job! I think the cone expands the body unevenly, more at the top, and the cassette will be clamped unevenly. For uniform expansion, the cone must be in the middle of the holder's body. It would be great to see a dimensional drawing. What taper angle did you use and what material?
Thanks! I was also worried about that at first, but found that the cone fortunately sits about where the toolholders like to be. And it leaves me space for the pivot bushing at the base of the toolpost. I chose a moderately steep angle but still the toolpost is snugged down first and then it begins to expand the dovetails. In normal use the height adjustment nut also helps resist the cutting forces. But even in reverse with the tool upside down, a little more force on the handle secures the holder well. I'm thinking of putting full plans up for a small price on Etsy, just to help fund the workshop a little to be able to do more projects like this
@@Mark_How Do you want to separate the body fixation and holder fixation? How is it done on Chinese QCTP 250-000? I want to try to repeat your design, with its own nuances, drawings are not required. I have seen examples of different QCTPs, but I think that expanding or contracting the dovetail is the most correct way to achieve rigidity and repeatability.
Very good design and craftsmanship. Have you thought of hardening the v grooves since most commercial bought holders will be hardened and can start wearing out the tool post?
It was a concern of mine early on, but I've been putting it through its paces with some paid work and it's holding up remarkably well. The only real scratches so far have been where the height adjustment nut contacts the top of the toolpost if chips get under there. I think if it were hardened it would last until my grandkids, but at present it should last as long as I'm not completely careless with it. The body seems to be a grade of stainless steel scrap-binium.
Thanks, at first I had never heard of Sanches Blanes, but after looking into the company and getting to know the lathe I was and still am very impressed by it.
It's a model A with the quick change gearbox, had it for about 3 or so years now I think. I'm from South Africa so there are quite a few different makes of machinery that we come across here
@@Mark_How Really good, then make a video showing all your lathe, I think many Brazilians will like it. The Sanches Blanes factory no longer manufactures lathes, but people still manufacture spare parts. Your model A is equivalent to our model C, here the order of the models has been changed according to the manufacturer. Congratulations on the channel.
In the hobby shop it's often more the advantage of repeatable tool height that saves all the time. That's certainly been my experience using this one for a while now
@@Mark_How Agree- and using insert tooling this never changes. So a dedicated packer (shim) for a holder makes adjustment a thing of the past. (This can be superglued to the bottom of the holder if max speed is desired).Four tools in my 4 way means tool change is rare- and fast with a T bar and two bolts. QC is theoretically faster when you get past 8 tools- cannot remember the last time that happened.
Hello Thanks for your nice video.ihave one qoetion: Exactly in the centre is big hole 🕳️ and exactly the besaid this hole also you did one small hole.for what you did?is nesesery? Best regards sina
Hi there, thank you. It's not strictly necessary, I did it to help the part expand easily without cracking over time. I didn't want sharp edges that would lead to stress concentrations
@@Mark_How thanks 🙏 it is very biutifull. Ihave one small lathe iwanted do ather one that isaw in TH-cam but ilove your change tool post.be sure imake one small for my lathe. Best regards sina Von Österreich 🇦🇹
Hi Mark! Great job! Am I wrong or your Lathe is a Sanches Blanes 230? (brazilian copy of the South Bend 9" Lathe)? I saw the Sanches Blanes logo on the original tool post and the 4-jaw chuck too. Thanks for sharing the build. Best regards from Brazil! John.
Hey dude really cool design and well machined. Did you ever find out what grade of metal it was. I’m currently building a QCTP out of EN3 mild steel and am debating wether or not it needs to be case hardened.
Since this stuff machines so nicely I think it might be SS303, very easy to get good finishes on it compared to some 304 I've done. The tool holders I've made in another video are some unknown grade of mild steel and those have virtually no signs of wear even after several months of hard use. While your grand kids might not inherit them, EN3 should serve you well, EN8 or EN19 (4140) might save you the trouble of having to case harden though if you can get your hands on some
Not just yet, I wanted to, but finding I change my compound angle far too often between threading and other weird tapers. Also a bit limited in tool height, wanted to index a plate to my compound t-slot, and drill into that, but then would struggle to get some tools low enough to be on centre. So still pondering a better solution
I have a atlas lathe that I would love one of these 4 I do not own a mill any chance any1 would be willing to mill 1 of these out for a fair price I am just getting started into more precise metal work.
superb little hack with that cone spreading the dovetail. did you invent it or you saw it somewhere? I'm going to use this technique one day, when I buy the milling machine. for now I'm excited and waiting for my 1st lathe ever to arrive. subscribed!
Thanks, it's actually been done by a few people before, but it works really well. Has a surprising amount of clamping force. Nothing quite like the excitement of your first lathe, here's to many happy projects 🍻
@@Mark_How cheers! I still don't have a lathe and I already know I want to make that quick change post, using the cylindrical cone pressed down, as it feels so much more rigid than the cam clamp pushing on the peg. because I don;t have access to the milling machine, I'm thinking to face the steel cube on my lathe (can it be done on 900W brushless lathe?), and then cut the dovetails on the bandsaw and file it by hand to match the wooden angled mockup. I know it sounds crazy but I have to deal with what I have. I saw someone attaching hand filed dovetailed plate to the steel cube with the bolts, but I prefer if the whole post is a one solid piece of steel. I'll soon find out if it was doable without a mill.
Should be doable, you'll know pretty soon what the lathe will and won't be capable of. You'd always be able to take lighter cuts. Having a wooden template of the dovetails would be a good idea. Maybe make it a touch bigger than the final dimensions. Get the shape of the dovetails right. Then check that the dovetails don't have a taper by checking them with pins with a micrometre/calipers. The measurement across the pins would need to be the same top to bottom. Then you could bring it in carefully to final dimension and shape. It's definitely doable if you take your time. Here's a good writeup to one of the original builds using only a lathe (and milling attachment). If your lathe to be has t-slots on the compound, you could get pretty creative with the setups though: www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/machining-mla-23-toolpost-174336/
@@Mark_How the pictures are not clear enough to see, but it looks like there are T-slots at the edge profile of the compound. not even sure what the below specs mean, but I think I could mill some small pieces by just moving the "thing"' horizontally against the end mill in the chuck. I will need to buy or make a milling attachment, to get the Z-axis movement, or get creative with shimming it. Maximum travel of the tool holder: 55mm Medium pallet travel: 75mm Large pallet travel: 276mm
@@Mark_How Wedges are very powerful, so are levers. You have a double power whammy going there! I'm fascinated with the power of ER collets, which the principles can be applied to a lot of things, including anti-backlash nuts.
Wouldn't be so many good ones if people didn't try their ideas out in the first place. It's a good intermediate project too, import ones can be hit or miss and good quality ones cost more than my machines. Plus not every region of the world has strong manufacturing industries that make finding second hand machinery & tools feasible.
I'm have to make one of these for my mini lathe. Much simpler than many other designs.
They work really well, I've had no complaints with mine even after a good few years
That's one of the best designs out there.
Gotta love mystery metal.
I bought about 80kg of 4, 6 and 8"∅ round bar offcuts from a local metal recyclers a couple years ago. I've got no idea what this stuff is, and neither did he, but because of the uncertainty about what it actually is, it was dirt cheap........ and that's my second favourite price ! :D
Apparently about a ton and a half of the offcuts came in as part of a scrap metal consignment from an aero engine manufacturer, so god only knows what kind of freaky metal alloy it is. The stuff holds a magnet like mild steel, it's a nightmare to machine, dulls bandsaw blades in a heartbeat, eats lathe tool inserts like a fat kid going at candy, and absolutely refuses to rust. My best guess is that it'd some grade of Chromoly.
So far I've only really used some of the stuff to make a couple of 4" V belt pulleys, and that was incredibly hard going. I did contemplate making some large V blocks from some of the 8" lumps, but I REALLY couldn't face doing that much machining on any of this stuff ! :D
Nicely done! On my shop-built QCTP I placed a thin roller bearing thrust washer between the tool post clamping nut and the tool post clamping surface, in this case it would be the top of the conical plug.
This eliminated the tendency of the tool post to rotate with the tightening of its clamp, especially if there was oil between the bottom of the tool post and the top of the compound rest. And it reduced the clamping torque required at the handle, tremendously.
Further, using square headed set screws for tool clamping eliminates the need to pick swarf from the screw sockets.
SOUNDS !! LIKE !! THE !! SWARF!! GETS !! INTO !! IT !! MORE !! THAN !! EVER !! BEFORE !! NOW !!
@@davidwillard7334 Certainly swarf got into the sockets of the tool clamping screws which, for some reason, I found really annoying.
As to the roller thrust washer, there never has been a problem with swarf getting into it. This bearing is at the bottom of a recess in the tool post, and the clamping nut is a close fit in this recess. If necessary I could have fitted an O-ring on the clamping nut for a seal, but I did not find this necessary.
After I fitted the thrust roller washer, I was astounded at the reduced torque needed to fix the tool post.
Well done! And the music at the end…. Perfect! Thank you for sharing.
Nicely done.
Every body has the machines they can afford or can get their hands on.
Not everybody can get or afford an Aloris or a Kurt vise or a lot of other things. So we have to have what we can have and make do with what we can make from the materials we can get. So all round this a first class effort and I look forward to watching what else you have.
YOUR !! WAY !! BETTER !! OFF !! WITHOUT !! IT !! ANYWAY !!
Very good work bro
Very, very good Work ! 👍👍👍 Best wishes from Germany 😀
Отличная идея, я себе такой сделаю, конструкция очень жёсткая и надёжная, молодец.
Nice video and presentation.
I gave up the solid hollow cone idea based on the contact junction isn’t area contact but a line contact. When you have time do a blue ink test and you know what I mean.
Also chips can trap in the expansion slot preventing it from closing and release of holder.
Very interesting. Nice work
Well done. I think if you place two cones up and down it will be more symmetric and rigid.
And how would you lift the bottom cone? (The block cannot move as height setting is then lost)
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Maybe make the top cone a long taper, the length of the tool post itself. That way you'd be spreading top and bottom.
@@DIEmicrosoft yes that would work but then the taper would stay in the block just like if you put tools in the tailstock. I think it has to be more that 16.5° to pop out of there by itself
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Really appreciate it :) have been a fan of the page for years, always really inspiring to have a look at what everyone's up to
Far superior to a piston design, and much simpler too, great work!
There are readily available and affordable wedge type.
Looks like YOU !! HAVE !! BEEN !! WATCHING !! WAY ! TOO !! MUCH !! OF !! THE !! ARTISAN !! PEACOCK !! SHOW ! HERE !!
Because the cone is short, and only expands the top of the block, it is not a true wedge design. The cone should be longer, but that would cause 'sticking' and need positive extraction. Which is why most wedge designs involve a sliding ramped wedge.
Nice. Beautiful work. I'm glad to see you are using a Sanches Blanes lathe. I have one of these. Congratulations from Brazil.
Profe eres un genio , tu vídeo es bien ilustrativo , saludos desde SICUANI PERÚ 🇵🇪
after 2 years of clamping has the tool post expanded
Thanks for sharing this. It's a very interesting and accessible design. I think I can make it entirely on the lathe if I to a bit of tomfoolery to mill the dovetails. That's awesome!
The quality of life upgrade that it represents will be well worth the effort
Good Job ! Thanks Mark for sharing.
Thanks Adel!
Looks good, I wound use it in preference to what I have. Furthermore its a home build and must bring a lot of satisfaction.
Brilliant. I love it. Makes so much sense. I would have used a slitting saw but yours came out straight so great job.
Ha! I was gritting my teeth when I saw him slitting with a bandsaw. But all's well that ends well.
Both the video and the engineering are exceptionally good! Congratulations!
Thanks Evan, appreciate it!
I really enjoyed this! Your workshop looks and sounds like mine! Less than perfect compared to Joe Py, Stefan Gotteswinter or Mr Crispin for instance. Nevertheless, gets the job done - eventually.
Just a bit concerned about the placement of the internal expander cone. I think it should be lower down so as to force the ways open at the level of the toolholder. Same as Федор Сухов commented.
Anyway, thanks very much for this. It is inspiring! I plan to make similar and smaller for my Taig lathe.
Thanks, thought long and hard about this, along with multiple CAD iterations. Wanted to strike a balance between the radial expanding force of the cone, vs it's vertical clamping force and still leave space for the locating bush at the bottom. The plan was to cut the cone at the depth in the video, try it out, and adjust it deeper if clamping proved a problem, but so far it hasn't, the trick is a close fit so that you don't need all that much expansion I find
@@Mark_How Well, this makes sense. And it works - which is the vital factor!
Thanks Mark, all the best . . .
it sure feels good to be some of the few who can take raw material and actually make something useful
So HOW MUCH ! RAW !! MATERIAL ! DO ! YOU ! HAVE !! THEN !??
@@davidwillard7334 a lot . I own a small cnc tool and die shop
Absolutely one of the best diy qctp I have ever seen! Did you have the projects?
Beautiful working
El mejor porta cuchilla que he visto
I like it a modern alternative to the lantern tool post yet we can utilize the tolling on offer on the markit the make the post on the Lathe , one's self . a must in todays world .
very nice job
Hello brother..so glad the city has the same hobby..I'm from Indonesia..hope you enjoy everything you do..hope you succeed..👍🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝
Thank you for the kind words! I hope you succeed too and that your videos and work go well
Nice work. If you make another, use a cam style lock to stretch the flexure. That should provide an even force.
And Should ! Break ! On you ! After that !!
Super Arbeit, überzeugt mich
Great work thank you.
Really good job and engineering.
Bravo for this video, I like it.
Talent with speaking. Go on!
Good choice for the Music ambiance. What is the music title at the end of your video please? Thank’s.
Greetings from Austria
Thank you very much
Nice work .
I maybe would have had a taper all the way down the middle, because as it is it's probably applying uneven pressure (more on the top and less at the bottom), kinda like splitting a log halfway.
Or instead, to keep the position locking functionality, maybe make that bottom ring a cone of the same taper.
Otherwise I feel your toolholders might be getting held by pressure from only one single horizontal plane, since the bottom will contract when the top expands. Hope I could get my point across.
Yes i thought exactly the same, however your idea seems to be better since my idea was to duplicate the cone for the bottom but that would be complicated
No doubt there are better designs out there (reason the wedge type or piston type are the ones commercially available) but I still advocate for the cone type as a good upgrade to a lathe with a four way toolpost. For one, it's possible to find a compromise between downward clamping pressure and radial expansion by tweaking the cone angle, while still keeping it easy to machine. The other thing is fewer parts and greater forgiveness with the tolerances. That said, it does rely on a nice fit with the tool post dovetails such that only a minor bit of radial expansion is needed to lock the tool holder in place. The better the fit, the less you'd be trying to split a log
Is there any rule about how long you can make a taper without it becoming more likely to lock in place? (Please be gentle, I'm asking in ignorance. :) )
@@ElizabethGreene I had the same question a while back. There is a figure, around 34 degrees, but it is a rubbery figure, because surface finishes come into play also.
Super cool, are the designs available I'd love to make one for my lathe as well if you're ok with and able to send some designs that would be amazing! Either way great work man!
Very good job
Beautiful!
Great video and a well made quick change tool holder!
Good job! I think the cone expands the body unevenly, more at the top, and the cassette will be clamped unevenly. For uniform expansion, the cone must be in the middle of the holder's body.
It would be great to see a dimensional drawing. What taper angle did you use and what material?
Thanks! I was also worried about that at first, but found that the cone fortunately sits about where the toolholders like to be. And it leaves me space for the pivot bushing at the base of the toolpost. I chose a moderately steep angle but still the toolpost is snugged down first and then it begins to expand the dovetails. In normal use the height adjustment nut also helps resist the cutting forces. But even in reverse with the tool upside down, a little more force on the handle secures the holder well. I'm thinking of putting full plans up for a small price on Etsy, just to help fund the workshop a little to be able to do more projects like this
@@Mark_How Do you want to separate the body fixation and holder fixation? How is it done on Chinese QCTP 250-000?
I want to try to repeat your design, with its own nuances, drawings are not required. I have seen examples of different QCTPs, but I think that expanding or contracting the dovetail is the most correct way to achieve rigidity and repeatability.
Brilliant chap!
Well done, you have an exceptional talent.
Thanks Alec
In the TOLIET !
Great job, Mark. I would like finally replace my lantern post with the same one. Do you mind sharing your STL model for QCTP? Thanks a lot ?
It's all in the Video !!
Felicidades buen trabajo
Very good design and craftsmanship. Have you thought of hardening the v grooves since most commercial bought holders will be hardened and can start wearing out the tool post?
It was a concern of mine early on, but I've been putting it through its paces with some paid work and it's holding up remarkably well. The only real scratches so far have been where the height adjustment nut contacts the top of the toolpost if chips get under there. I think if it were hardened it would last until my grandkids, but at present it should last as long as I'm not completely careless with it. The body seems to be a grade of stainless steel scrap-binium.
Very nice. I can see one of these builds in the future. Subbed.
Great design. One quick question: What is the angle and size of the dovetail cutter you're using? Thanks for sharing.
It's about a 25mm, 60 degree cutter to match the angle on Aloris & clone tool posts
@@Mark_How Thanks for the info Mark.
Great job, well done man.
Creative video,thanks :)
Hi, excellent work. I'm Brazilian, I see that your lathe is Sanches Blanes. This lathe is very good.
Thanks, at first I had never heard of Sanches Blanes, but after looking into the company and getting to know the lathe I was and still am very impressed by it.
@@Mark_How Very good, which country are you from? is your lathe model C? How long have you had the lathe?
It's a model A with the quick change gearbox, had it for about 3 or so years now I think. I'm from South Africa so there are quite a few different makes of machinery that we come across here
@@Mark_How Really good, then make a video showing all your lathe, I think many Brazilians will like it. The Sanches Blanes factory no longer manufactures lathes, but people still manufacture spare parts. Your model A is equivalent to our model C, here the order of the models has been changed according to the manufacturer. Congratulations on the channel.
for some applications for better grip probably 2 cone system will work better.
A nice job, well done!
Thanks Graham
Excellent idea, I think I will make one for myself. BTW, is that a Brazilian Sanchez Blanes TMB230 lathe?
It is indeed, not exactly sure of the model, but they're excellent lathes
Interesting- but I would have thought that indexing is crucial to a QCTP. Otherwise it becomes slower than a 4-way.
In the hobby shop it's often more the advantage of repeatable tool height that saves all the time. That's certainly been my experience using this one for a while now
@@Mark_How Agree- and using insert tooling this never changes. So a dedicated packer (shim) for a holder makes adjustment a thing of the past. (This can be superglued to the bottom of the holder if max speed is desired).Four tools in my 4 way means tool change is rare- and fast with a T bar and two bolts. QC is theoretically faster when you get past 8 tools- cannot remember the last time that happened.
Really good stuff
Well done.
Excellent work. subscribed!
Thanks Mike, much appreciated!
Hello
Thanks for your nice video.ihave one qoetion:
Exactly in the centre is big hole 🕳️ and exactly the besaid this hole also you did one small hole.for what you did?is nesesery?
Best regards sina
Hi there, thank you. It's not strictly necessary, I did it to help the part expand easily without cracking over time. I didn't want sharp edges that would lead to stress concentrations
@@Mark_How thanks 🙏 it is very biutifull.
Ihave one small lathe iwanted do ather one that isaw in TH-cam but ilove your change tool post.be sure imake one small for my lathe.
Best regards sina
Von Österreich 🇦🇹
Really nice job mate. I learned a lot from the video. Is the dovetail 60deg?
It's So many ! Degres ! Either way !.
Hi Mark! Great job!
Am I wrong or your Lathe is a Sanches Blanes 230? (brazilian copy of the South Bend 9" Lathe)? I saw the Sanches Blanes logo on the original tool post and the 4-jaw chuck too.
Thanks for sharing the build.
Best regards from Brazil!
John.
Not wrong at all, it is indeed a Sanches Blanes, they're lovely little machines
Hey dude really cool design and well machined. Did you ever find out what grade of metal it was. I’m currently building a QCTP out of EN3 mild steel and am debating wether or not it needs to be case hardened.
Since this stuff machines so nicely I think it might be SS303, very easy to get good finishes on it compared to some 304 I've done. The tool holders I've made in another video are some unknown grade of mild steel and those have virtually no signs of wear even after several months of hard use. While your grand kids might not inherit them, EN3 should serve you well, EN8 or EN19 (4140) might save you the trouble of having to case harden though if you can get your hands on some
@@Mark_How good to know yours have lasted well since making them. Fingers crossed once mines all done it last the same sort of time.
Gorgeous!!!
What a perfect job ! Is the main body made in aluminium ?
Thank you, no it's a mystery metal, but seems to be a grade of stainless steel
No It's Wood !
Good,,, 👍👍👍👍🤗🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩
Have you added an indexing feature yet? It will make your tool post much nicer when you have repeatability, especially in conjunction with a DRO.
Not just yet, I wanted to, but finding I change my compound angle far too often between threading and other weird tapers. Also a bit limited in tool height, wanted to index a plate to my compound t-slot, and drill into that, but then would struggle to get some tools low enough to be on centre. So still pondering a better solution
Nice!
Nice job I like it. But there is much easy way to do quick change tool post with already centerd hight of tool and all.
need blue prints
完美👍
I have a atlas lathe that I would love one of these 4 I do not own a mill any chance any1 would be willing to mill 1 of these out for a fair price I am just getting started into more precise metal work.
superb little hack with that cone spreading the dovetail. did you invent it or you saw it somewhere?
I'm going to use this technique one day, when I buy the milling machine.
for now I'm excited and waiting for my 1st lathe ever to arrive.
subscribed!
Thanks, it's actually been done by a few people before, but it works really well. Has a surprising amount of clamping force.
Nothing quite like the excitement of your first lathe, here's to many happy projects 🍻
@@Mark_How cheers!
I still don't have a lathe and I already know I want to make that quick change post, using the cylindrical cone pressed down, as it feels so much more rigid than the cam clamp pushing on the peg.
because I don;t have access to the milling machine, I'm thinking to face the steel cube on my lathe (can it be done on 900W brushless lathe?), and then cut the dovetails on the bandsaw and file it by hand to match the wooden angled mockup.
I know it sounds crazy but I have to deal with what I have.
I saw someone attaching hand filed dovetailed plate to the steel cube with the bolts, but I prefer if the whole post is a one solid piece of steel. I'll soon find out if it was doable without a mill.
Should be doable, you'll know pretty soon what the lathe will and won't be capable of. You'd always be able to take lighter cuts.
Having a wooden template of the dovetails would be a good idea. Maybe make it a touch bigger than the final dimensions. Get the shape of the dovetails right. Then check that the dovetails don't have a taper by checking them with pins with a micrometre/calipers. The measurement across the pins would need to be the same top to bottom. Then you could bring it in carefully to final dimension and shape.
It's definitely doable if you take your time. Here's a good writeup to one of the original builds using only a lathe (and milling attachment). If your lathe to be has t-slots on the compound, you could get pretty creative with the setups though:
www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/machining-mla-23-toolpost-174336/
@@Mark_How the pictures are not clear enough to see, but it looks like there are T-slots at the edge profile of the compound.
not even sure what the below specs mean, but I think I could mill some small pieces by just moving the "thing"' horizontally against the end mill in the chuck. I will need to buy or make a milling attachment, to get the Z-axis movement, or get creative with shimming it.
Maximum travel of the tool holder: 55mm
Medium pallet travel: 75mm
Large pallet travel: 276mm
@@Mark_How Wedges are very powerful, so are levers. You have a double power whammy going there! I'm fascinated with the power of ER collets, which the principles can be applied to a lot of things, including anti-backlash nuts.
Bella però io l avrei fatta di acciaio e non di alluminio
Why do people keep on making their own quick change toolpost? When there are so many good ones.
Wouldn't be so many good ones if people didn't try their ideas out in the first place. It's a good intermediate project too, import ones can be hit or miss and good quality ones cost more than my machines. Plus not every region of the world has strong manufacturing industries that make finding second hand machinery & tools feasible.