Car Lift Concrete Reinforcement - How to Reinforce Cement for an Auto Lift (Super Garage Video #3)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- This is a video showing how to reinforce concrete below a 7000 lb car lift. The existing slab was 2500 psi concrete, 4.5" thick, with no rebar. We added two 30"x30"x24" 6000 psi concrete pads with two layers of rebar. The video shows some of the tools we used, and some of the other tricks, tips, and secrets we learned along the way. Thanks for watching!!
This video is part of our "Super Garage Video Series".
Here is the video BEFORE this video, where we eliminated garage door tracks by installing a commercial grade insulated roll-up door: • Installing a Roll Up J...
Here is the video AFTER this video, where we installed the BendPak GrandPrix GP-7 car lift: • Installing a 2 Post Ca...
enigmaengineer...
just a suggestion... for those that are looking to do this... cut an X inside the box with the demo saw... makes removal much easier... ;)
Excellent suggestion :)
Pro tip!
Exactly
For anyone else getting ready to do this job, have your cherry picker on hand and purchase a 1/2" or 5/8th" x 3-4" anchor bolt. After cutting the square, drill in the center for the anchor bolt. Add a chain to it and lock it down. Then use your cherry picker to lift out and remove the concrete slug. You may even want to use it in your yard somewhere. If you don't have a cherry picker, use the demo saw to cut the crete you want to remove into smaller sections before killing yourself trying to remove it. Using the shipping crate as a pattern is a nice touch!!!
Thanks for the comment Steve!
I was about to say the same thing lol
That original pad looked fine.
not at 2500 psi
I installed my lift on 4 inch thick. Was probably not the safest thing but I had it for 2 years and lifted 3 f350 single rear wheel no duallys long bed crew cabs. Sketchy as hell but thank fully never failed. Also mine was a 9k 2 post tuxedo that I bought used. So yours should definitely never fail.
Couple things for someone doing this. One, that concrete was plenty thick for a 7K lift. But to each their own if you want piece of mind. Two, crosscutting the corners on your cutouts will make getting the concrete out so much easier. Cheers.
Just finished the video.. 2ft thick? That is the definition of "overkill". 10K lifts only call for 6-7" thick slabs.
@@seizethecarp_My 10k lift only requires 4" thick and 4000psi concrete. Currently going through the process of replacing the concrete where the lift will sit. I'm doing 4ft x 4ft slabs 6"deep with 5000psi concrete mix and adding 3/4" rebar which my garage floor didn't have for some reason.
@@irregularrex4004 most garage floors don't have rebar because contractors are cheap and normal garages don't really need the rebar.
@@stevec326Yeah I'm sure it was them being cheap whenever this garage was built because it's massive. I finished the concrete and had them finish the lift install and they smoked 4 drill bits making the holes for the anchor bolts. I'm glad I went with the overkill method. 😂
When I did this I just used some heavy duty concrete ancors, a few blocks, a 4x6 and used two car jacks to lift the block out right after sawing it. Worked perfect and took 2 minutes.
Nice work.. I too did the same thing for my 2 post. Requirements were only 4" of 4000 psi. I went 8" deep, pined existing floor and back cut under the existing floor 3-4 inches. Poured 5000 psi bagged mix and let it set for 30 days before anchoring my lift
Thanks Phil. Good to hear someone else did something similar. Mine has been rock solid!
That’s what my plans were, just unsure if it’s necessary. How wide did you do your square? I have a true 4” and 4000psi with wire mesh which I assume is better than the minimum requirement which for mine is 4&1/4 3000psi….?
@@wht240sxkaMost lifts require 4 1/4” minimum and 4000psi monopour concrete. If you read the tech sheets for the bolts they are not approved for “hand mixed” concrete.
Wasn't that thick enough to begin with? Had rebar as well...what more reinforcements did it need?
For real lmao
I know
That looked more than adequate.
I’ve been installing lifts for 30 years. I’d love to know if they drilled a test hole and put an anchor bolt in to see if it held. That concrete looked fine to me. Certainly a mono-pour of commercial concrete from a mixer. These guys should have read some literature from lift manufacturers and ALI or other lift regulation agencies. It would have saved them a lot of trouble. I personally believe that the final result is sketchy, especially if the concrete was hand mixed.
My muscles are getting sore just watching this video! Thanks for sharing, I always enjoy your videos.
Since my fitness videos didn't take off - I thought I would get a workout moving concrete!
That is really the right way to do it when necessary! I have 5”, it was supposed to be 6” 4500 pound concrete and I haven’t had issues is 6 years with the bendpak bolts. No cracks etc.
Just did this to install my Rotary lift. We did two 4x7'x12" pads and roughly under the lift column there's a 1x1' additional hole. It's a lot of work!
Nice job. Yes it is a lot of work! But you can't beat peace of mind when you have a 6500 car above you
You had the perfect opportunity to cast the mounting bolts in with the steel reinforcement and then pour the concrete to solidify them. Much stronger than drilling a hole and using a dyna bolt.
All you needed was a steel template of the posts foot plate, fix the studs and bolts to the template, measure the correct separation distance, weld rebar to the bottoms and mid sections of the studs and then weld the whole jig to the steel mesh. The template will sit about 2 inches above the surface of the concrete. This will allow you to screed and level the concrete and you'll have adequate threads poking out to mount your posts.
Would need to be exactly accurate for that to work
This is how I did mine, I welded a plate with nuts and rebar and placed it in the slab when I poured it, it was spaced using metal bolted to both pads so it was perfectly aligned. Then I could just bolt in the lift and remove the bolts to take it out. When I installed it in my current shop, I had to drill the holes and put in the anchors. Now I have studs sticking up, and how can I remote the lift to move it to my new shop? I can't just tilt it down the studs won't let it. I can't lift it up....I guess I can rock it and put in shim after shim until its above the studs after I cut them flush? Just try to google that, you get nothing but other videos on how to install bolts..
@@murraymadness4674 Tilt enough to get a sawzall blade under it to cut the bolt off. The bolts are not hardened so they cut easily.
@@scottnunya1 I was able to just tilt it and put some spacers enough to tilt it all the way down with a chain hoist, so it left the bolts sticking up.
Lol how does John Wick make it look so easy 😆
Stunt doubles and film editing.
Good video - just want to add to the re-bar install. Driving a few re-bars into the ground vertically and tie them to the horizontal pieces would have made an even stronger pad. However - the way you did it is FAR and beyond what you really need. Great job, and it is always better to go over board on reinforcement when 'literally' you can be crushed by a failure...
Hi Tom, thank you very much for the comment. That is great re-bar advice! We felt the same way with the pads - the foundation was the last thing we wanted to worry about with cars above our heads
Never pound bar onto earth, use Dobie's with a hole in it for the vertical piece. 30 yr reinforcing ironworker, you boys went a little overboard, but what the hell, muds cheap.
@@roddiener what is "Dobie's with a hole in it for the vertical piece" mean?
@@roddiener nobody knows what You're talking about
@@dreamingcode no kidding....it shows.
overkill always gives you piece of mind. That being said 3/4" wedge anchors pull out at 5,000 lbs each in 3 1/2" concrete. Times that by a minimum of 10 anchors most lifts have and your 10k lbs lift is secured 5 times over what it needs to be at max load using the minimum requirements they suggest.
Think about a floor jack and how the portion of the wheels touching the surface have a very small footprint and the concrete doesn't bust when you pick up a heavy truck does it?
but its not picking up the whole truck 6 feet ,with side to side movement
13:23 Don't lie! There's no footage of the pour because you disposed of a couple bodies in there before pouring the concrete 😂
Just the fingers and heads lol
Why on good Earth did you destroy a strong 8" pad and replace with small pad that could angle out with leverage? You need a much wider pad for safety.
People who decide they know more than engineers. That's who.
🦧
@MOPARGuy clearly not lmao
@@TheGuruStud zing!!! 😁
Like everyone else it was the first thing that came to my mind. WTF? 😬
LOL, good job on that previous concrete reinforcement, it didn't want to break at ALL!!!! It said Aww hell naw!!!
A 15 min video of someone breaking concrete and digging a hole. :D Which then is miraculously filled at the end. 1 minute of information in a 15 min video.
It almost looked like you had enough depth ....how did you knwo the existing PSI ?
this is the most idiotic thing I've ever seen, that is over 8 inches of reinforced concrete.
which is way more then enough for that lift.
I hope he really compacted that soil cause he probably made the point weaker by doing that, even if the point making direct contact with the lift has a higher tensile strength. it is way more likely to settle and sink do to the fact that it is not one uniform piece and will not distribute the weight over a greater surface area.
the joint between the existing concrete and the new concrete is a cold joint (also concrete slightly shrinks as it cures) so the only thing keeping it in place is that rebar. which
1. he didn't secure properly to the existing slab and
2. he didn't use enough of
also I would have used coated rebar since water and moisture are going to get into that cold joint and corrode that rebar over the years.
@@mountainbikerdave 24”😂😂😂😂
Better safe than sorry is always great, but holy smokes!!! The existing concrete was double what was needed and was then replaced with the thinnest rebar with a joint created. Good to see the rebar, but they were improperly placed to achieve maximum strength steel to steel transfer of the rebar. Those should have been wired in on the bottom at the outside and the piece on the bottom at the inside should have been on top to transfer all the potential shear to the pieces that were doweled to the existing slab. All good, but really not really much stronger then it was before because a smaller slab was created. Either way, more than good enough.
That original concrete sounded and looked harder than hell too.
What grade is the floor you started with?! It looks STOUT. Unless it was not 3000 PSI, you were good as gold my guy.
Looked like the existing slab was plenty thick for a standard 2 post lift.
4" is usually enough.
I agree people underestimate the strength of concrete and concrete bolts. they can hold thousands of pounds of force per bolt.
@@SeptemberTwentyThird exactly. 3/4" wedge anchors pull out at 5,000 lbs each in 3 1/2" concrete. Times that by a minimum of 10 anchors most lifts have and your 10k lbs lift is secured 5 times over what it needs to be at max load using the minimum requirements they suggest.
you guys sure took the cut outs out the hard way
This is the video I needed. I'm looking for a new place and needed to know what could be done if I compromised and get something not ready for a lift.
I'm really curious if you couldn't have pulled the concrete out with a shop crane.
"Hard part is over my friend" - when someone speaks too soon
Water is used to cool the blade and keep the dust down. You need to spray the water on the blade correctly and use the shop vac to suck up the water. Put a few more cuts in will make it easier to remove concrete.
It seems the existing concrete slap was rock solid...
Would it have been possible to use a bigger foot print of 1/4” - 5/16” plate to spread the load vs the cutting and reinforcing?
Probably could but probably shouldn't. As far as I know most, if not all, lift manufacturers require minimum 6" slab depth.
That’s exactly what I did and it only made sense. I took a piece of cardboard and used it for a stencil for the foot print. I believe I used a 1” thick steel 2’x2’ or 3’x3’ plate, can’t remember it’s been so long. Had a guy to cut the steel and drill the holes. It saved so much.
Exactly. Increase squares inches and leverage. That would be my plan if my floor was too thin. Luckily it wasn't ;)
Thanks for the tips ya'll 👍☮
I think I heard someone say the hard work is done. Hahaha...positive reinforcement.
You will be able two lift 18 wheel trucks with those concrete pads, you already had plenty of concrete in there, a con rete pad 4'x4' by 1' should be enough for 10k lift. You went over the board.
I'm too old to do that kind of labor… I would've cut it thoroughly like y'all did and then drilled 2 to 4 bolt holes in it and brought my engine hoist over there and lift it out carefully….
John Wick makes the sledgehammer work look easier than it really is. Curse you Hollywood!
Upvote for subtle White Zombie.
Old video and I am not at all trying to be a smartass here but why did you not use the saw to cut the center in to multiple smaller chunks? That saw seemed to take you much less time and effort. The saw was sitting there in the picture looking lonely the whole time. I cut up a sidewalk to install pavers using this method and it was much quicker an actually less work for me since I did it by myself.
6000 psi concrete is probably double of requirments provided by manufacturer. Currently installing a 2post lift of a 5 metric ton lift where overall hight is 5300mm and in instalation manual provided by manufacturer is stated that 3000psi concrete is required . so long story short is that this guy really wasted his time and money for really nothing but I have to admit that the effort was great
You should make those concrete holes a lot bigger and deeper to begin with. Maybe they are sufficient after u redid em, but the way I look at it is the bigger and thicker the better, and you need fiber glass and steel mesh in the concrete. If you make huge concrete base squares or even connecting concrete bases like one giant rectangle then u just can't go wrong.
Hell why not just rip the entire foundation out and pour a new 5' deep one. Just cant go wrong lol
I am sorry to tell you that you actually made it weaker not stronger
You can make a bunch of saw cuts across it also.
Did you mix the concrete yourself at home or have a place mix it for you?
Mix it yourself dude, nobody is going to carry back a load of premixed concrete…
When cutting out the slab why didn’t you use the saw and cut it into smaller pieces?
I would think that would prevent swinging that hammer so much?
I am about to do this job and at 55 years old I want to swing the hammer as little as possible.😂
Great video though. Very helpful!👍
If I have a 4 inch concrete floor can I put a 4 post car lift and store an extra car on top of it?
Not a very helpful channel
Curious, how did you ensure that you didn’t hit any lines or wires or stuff below garage concrete? I’m not sure how garages are built in homes, do they typically run anything under garage floor concrete or generally is nothing run under garage concrete? I’m sure like anything, answer might be maybe...guess what I’m asking, is typically? Thanks
The 10,000 lb , 2 post one I ordered says 35000, psi 4” min, if using epoxy , 35000 psi 6” if using concrete anchors.
Is it wide enough? Looks like a heavy pickup could pull it out with leverage.
Cusntas pulgadas de ancho
That slab was probably already 5,000 psi
...that pad looked pretty thick already......
What a bummer to find out ( as this show) that the slab was suitable for the job
My friends hold me to unachievable standards - I would have had to reinforce the floor regardless. Plus, it was a great bicep workout
@@EnigmaEngineering Whenever I read someone's directions, I ALLLLLLWAYS think of them as MINIMUM NEEDED.
I have had a truck nearly fall off a lift. Scared the living crap out of me. It was my fault and my truck, but being a professional mechanic and running my own shop, I really had to enforce some new rules. The lift was an old GLOBE in ground air over hydraulic. I was in the shop alone and while I was lowering the truck onto a pipe, (Welded to a steel wheel), to put weight on it to remove a lower BJ, the phone rang and I did not realize I had NOT removed the 2x4 I always used to hold open the air valve. The leaky hydraulic valve (that I knew full well about), allowed the truck to lower down. While in the office on the phone, I looked out into the shop to see my truck just about to slide off the lift sideways. I never moved so fast in my life!!!!! Caught it before she went over, but I cannot figure out how I didn't lose it. It had to be around 40 degrees list. I got damned lucky.....
Nice
How did you determine psi of existing concrete?
Hey you know what they say, do it right cuz you do it twice. I need to do this to mine, I found a crack forming from one of the bolts.
That was a horrible decision, the pad was fine to begin with. You should of drilled holes in the existing slab put rebar in them horizontal and connected them to the new slab.mwhat you have now is not save
24 inch thick is unnecessary.
4 to 6 inches is all that is needed. But more power to ya.
So if I wanted to augment an old shed and rebuild the center of the slab for a manual scissor lift with the plans to drive a 3700lb car onto the center and drive the scissor under the front and lift it and drive a lift table under and pull the front subframe how thick would o need the center or the concrete to be poured to and reinforced with? 6-8’’?
Great work! When we built our shop I used a laser to measure exactly where the 3/4" galvanized anchor bolts went per the blueprints for our steel building. Too late now, but I would have lasered the position of the bolts from the 2 post lift baseplates if we had to do this process. Just a heads up for next time thanks!
Good suggestion! We did measure and mark the positions extremely accurately before we set everything. The rebar runs exactly where the bolts do not. We were considering going with a machine base-style with L-shaped anchor bolts. The difficulty would have been picking the posts up and setting them down on top of the anchor bolts!
@@EnigmaEngineering our 2 post is anchored with 3/4" drive-in anchors as well. It would have been impossible to locate the position of the lift during the initial concrete pour and the only reason why "L" type anchors weren't used. You are right that the lift post would be very heavy to lift in place haha!
He is a man of focus, commitment, sheer will... something you know very little about. I once saw him kill three men in a bar... with a pencil, with a fucking pencil.
Viggo!!
You can tell he is a engineer. There was nothing wrong with that concrete. Holy crap it was a 7000lb lift . You only need 4 inches for 7k lift.
After watch all the work involved in prepping for a 2 post lift on multiple sites I decided to go with a scissor lift.
Can't beat the setup on a scissor lift!
Hey broseph. I did order my lift. What was the cost of this DIY concrete job? I got an 800 dollar quote to do the work by an expert but if its significantly cheaper ill do it.
Awesome! My concrete was $430. But, if you have to rent a hammer drill/demo saw, ~$200. And cutting rebar, etc. $800 sounds like a great deal!
@@EnigmaEngineering appreciate that man
@@EnigmaEngineering just sick of waiting ;) he won't be here until next week
I have a MaxJax I would like to install. 6000# capacity. House was built in 2006 in Port Saint Lucie. Don't know anything about the concrete, I am the 2nd owner. What would you recommend?
Hey Les, it is hard to say, but your safety is #1 priority. According to the MaxJax manual you need 4.25" inch concrete. I am guessing your slab in FL is around that thickness. I would recommend getting a 1/4" concrete drill bit, going to an inconspicuous corner of your garage, then drilling down 3 inches with a tape measure. Drop something into the hole like a 3/16" steel file till you hit concrete. Drill down in .5" increments until you are no longer at concrete, then you will know the depth. If your concrete is not 4.25" thick, consider cutting out some 48"x48" squares and reinforcing the slab with some tough new cement like we did here!
@@EnigmaEngineering Hey thanx. Definitely giving me some ideas. I have a house by a kinda upper level builder in my home size and neighborhood. What would be a common PSI for concrete around 2006?
@@lesgarten use 3,000 psi if you cut out squares...also when you pour, it was said to wait about 28-30 days of curing before installing anything. dont do it early
How thick is the concrete now?
A lot of the 10 k post lifts area saying 4inch is ok. Did you just want some extra for safety or was it the 2500 psi strength that made you repour?
Thanks for the question! The concrete under the posts is now 24" thick. In hindsight, I probably did not have to cut the old concrete. I did not know how strong it was, whether it had rebar (and what type), what was under the slab, etc. My best friends tend to make me paranoid, so I overbuild everything (I think that's good). When I cut through the existing concrete I learned the concrete was high quality, it had tiny rebar, but had a great compacted gravel foundation, and was something like 4.5" (I thought it was ~4" so it would have been just out of spec for the bendpak). Also, reinforcing presents the difficulty of having to dowel in to the existing slab or key in under the existing slab - both a pain that you do not have to deal with if you don't cut. There is some useful concrete info on this page, bendpak or not: www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/concrete-floor-requirements/
Enigma Engineering I bought a house and they poured a pad for me didn’t really think I was gonna get a lift but now I want one lol. It’s 4 inch thick and 32MPA (4600 psi) with rebar reinforcement.
Looks like I can’t use a bendpack but maybe some other brands have a 4 inch slab requirement. But strength wise I think it’s ok right?
@@FleetTech97 Yes, that sounds like very sturdy concrete and should be strong enough. I think many lift manufacturers purposely pick concrete specs that are above normal to cover themselves in case anything goes wrong, which is smart I guess!
@@FleetTech97 bendpack is same Chinese lift
@@TheGuruStud what do you mean? Is it not a good brand ? What would you recommend instead that I could put on 4 inch concrete?
Are they going to be lifting a dump truck thanks now I'm worried about my slab.
Ha ha. No. Way overkill. We thought about buying a tank after doing this, but the steel arms on the lift would probably bend
I think it is weaker now then before.
Are you lifting a jumbo jet?
I wood have put the archors before concrete set
Do you recommend oak or pine?
What a bad idea, all that work for nothing. The existing slab was already massive, and reinforced!
Youth.
If you can afford a lift, you can afford a jackhammer rental for concrete removal.
Seriously, a 60 second job and you save your back for some other stupidity.
They call for 4” maybe 6”. You cut out a 12” thick slab, I don’t get it, but thanks for tge video.
He said hed be wrenchinf on cars exerting torque but these days there is no wrenching. Heat and impact guns get anything off. Wrenching is alot unsafer on the thread.
What size rebar did you use?
Do you think this work on garage floor that is all screwed up?
If the floor was super jacked up, I would probably go much longer with the pads. Check this guide out on Bendpak's site: www.bendpak.com/Concrete-Slab-Requirements-BendPak-2019.pdf
I know I would not be using a sledge hammer to break up concrete; too much work when there are better tools out there.
how did you know the driveway needed to be reinforced for the auto lift? was the house an older home?
Humorously, it didn't actually need to be reinforced. But, I realized that after I had already cut it out. Take a drill bit slightly larger than a pencil, drill down in 1/2" increments. Drop a pencil/metal rod into the hole until it is clear you are into gravel/sand to determine the depth. The depth of concrete required is in the BendPak lift literature
@@EnigmaEngineering gotcha...I was wondering that!....
You should’ve mentioned in the beginning that you had no video pouring the concrete just wasting my time watching this video
Was good work not needed
If you are going to put a new footing in why doesn’t anyone make a bolt pattern and install j bolts in the new concrete? The wedge anchors are garbage!
Why don't you people have steel plate with bolts coming out of concrete
what a waste of time doing that job ... that concrete was fine to mount a hoist 2
Your name is “Enigma Engineering”. Do you have an engineering degree? I think you are spreading dangerous content. Do you realize that the concrete that a lift is bolted to also acts as a counterweight to the. Load of the vehicle on the lift? Two independent concrete bases of insufficient weight are not sufficient to handle the load. If the vehicle shifts on the lift arms and causes “twisting” forces on the posts those insufficient footings will fail.
How did you measure what the existing concrete was? adding a lift to my garage soon want to see if I need to do this too
For the existing concrete's strength, it was
Thanks just made an offer on the house tonight, the garage was put in 12-14 years ago so I should probably do it to be safe. Will have to modify the trusses too since its only 9ft right now but at least its a 40x32 garage
@@goathousegarage1125 That is a huge garage - hopefully the offer got accepted!
@@EnigmaEngineering They accepted someone else's the same day, back to searching again. Hopefully it will have 12ft ceilings already!
@@goathousegarage1125 I've played that game! Why stop at 12?!
Hi, how did you work out psi of concrete.
Typically, you can get an idea of concrete strength from the mix design and water/cement ratio. However, being that concrete is made from natural ever-changing materials, the only true way to know is to take samples when you are pouring. You can take a sample cylinder of concrete during the pour and have it broken at a testing lab.
@@drcornelius8275 We have third party crush tests on every pour. 14 days and 28 days and they save one for archives. Sometimes I'll have them pull one to sacrifice at 7 days to see if we can get equipment on it. I am a commercial general contractor building factories nation wide.
Put up some posts so that your lift doesn't get hit.
I have a slab already thats 4 inchs but is 70's old im thinking about doing the same as you did a 4x4x10 but im thinking maybe i should go 4x4x24?
I think the 24" thick is probably overkill - we got a little carried away :) But yes, I think the 4'x4' is a good idea for a truck, with 10" thickness (and rebar), so it locks in under the existing slab. The larger surface area is good to distribute the weight of the vehicle
What camera you using and where you located?
I am using an HDR-CX405 right now - I went cheap to start with, but I wanted something dedicated to only recording. Milwaukee. You?
Enigma Engineering Florida. Shame you guys aren’t closer, and my camera is a lumix g7
Bigger hammer 30lb sledge 4 hits.
Why not add the bolts while you poured.
Hi Robert, good question. We considered doing this as you suggest, with L bolts like a machine base. But, we would have had to lift the columns onto the bolts after, which would have been tough (maybe impossible given the ceiling height). Also, the lift came with the anchor-style bolt; this was the installation specification from BendPak
Overkill
Little overkill. Most 2 post hoist require 4 inch minimum concrete.
You are right
You should have just got a jack hammer
I agree!
Should have used core hole
That is so thick
What type of cement did you use? Did you mix by hand?
Hi Bill! We had a local contractor pour 6000 PSI cement into the holes. I think it was SAKRETE. Go Royals!
cement is just an ingredient in concrete......
The concrete that was there was totally thick enough to support 10,000 pounds anything over 4 inches can support 10,000 pounds so this was overkill. Maybe you did it to make a video but you didn't do it for the car lift because it wasn't necessary
Serious overkill the original concrete was plenty thick.
Surely you had plenty of concrete there already you talken all of the strength of the slab its now a weak point you would have been better sticking to what you had.
This was a waste of time. Your slab was more than adequate for a lift.
Concrete...not cement
Nice work, but not really necessary to do it
Way to small of pads for a lift… minimum at least 3’x3’ for the 2 post.
They are 24 inches deep and are linked to the other concrete and also span 6 inches under the existing 8 inch concrete
needed an jack hammer not a drill