Thank you for the video! I had already ruled-out misfire of the engine and noticed that my problem was gear-dependent. The shudder would only happen when down-shifting from fourth gear to third under light throttle (at 60 to 70 mph and 1700 to 2000 RPM, light throttle made it "buzz" for a half second before down-shifting). However, the first to second shift became very harsh after these mods. That is because I needed to use the K0192 plate instead of the K092 plate shown in the video. Everything was perfect after changing these out (had to get into transmission a second time). The K0192 plate has a smaller diameter hole below the 1-2 accumulator and is for later model F-150 trucks (mine is a 2007 lariat with a 5.4 Triton V8 engine). I would recommend buying the K0192 SuperTuff plate and note the hole sizes of your stock plate. If needed, you could drill the 0.073in hole out to a 0.092in hole with a 3/32in drill bit to match your stock plate. Also, I needed 11 quarts of oil to fill my transmission. Could buy 13 quarts and return what you don't use. Thanks again for the video. It helped me a ton.
Glad it helped! Yeah, I did address the different hole sizes for the 1-2 shift in the two different plates... I probably should’ve addressed that with a little more detail. Shift feel is very subjective, I like using the larger hole always. What some people say is firm, some say is harsh. To maintain STOCK shift feel, the right plate is a necessity. Like you said, if you’re not sure, you can order the K0192 and drill out the hole if necessary. Most of the time I’m doing a J-Mod, so those holes get opened up beyond .092” anyway. I tend to take it for granted that a lot of people want their vehicles to shift smoothly, I’d prefer barking the tires with each shift! Lol. Thanks for taking the time to comment! Hopefully the more detailed discussion regarding the K092 vs. K0192 plate will be helpful to someone in the future.
@@hambone950 no you would have to remove the valve body to see if the servo piston has the clip in it but if it looses the clip usually it gets stuck in the valve body usually sticking a valve
I think you just saved me a TON of money on my 2013 F150!!! Taking it into the shop next week and I'll request that they do your procedure. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
I enjoyed the video, thanks so much for your no-nonsense approach. It had enough information in it to make me feel confident enough to want to do the job myself. I have a 2002 F150 with the 4.2 liter and 4R70W with 48,000 original miles and bucks/hesitates during light acceleration right after shifting in overdrive. This was happening before and after I replaced the gas filter, spark plugs, coil and spark plug wires. I ordered the same parts you used, including a new set of check balls (cheap insurance) from this place out of New Jersey. I also ordered a new transmission oil pan with a built-in drain plug in it to avoid messes for future drain and fills.
Absolutely amazing results! I love the harder shift to 2nd gear with the tuff plate. The rest of the shifts are smooth like butter, can’t even feel it shift into OD anymore which is where I got the shudder. I would recommend this to anyone who is having shuddering issues before replacing any components like the torque converter or tranny itself. $100 in parts fixed the issue instantly. Thank you for this amazing tutorial!!
Curious to if your overdrive shutter felt like a bad u joint in the driveshaft almost? My e250 van feels like a driveshaft issue when loaded pulling up a grade but the driveshaft checks out. When towing my trailer I leave OD off to save the band.
This is such a great video ! Thank you for the time you spent making it. I just took mine apart and cleaned everything up . My truck went from not moving at all to atleast moving forward and shifting through the gears. It won’t go in reverse. I’m waiting on my kit to come in then I’m going to do it again! Thank you for making this video . YOUR THE MAN!!
@Justletmedoit did you resolve your no reverse issue? If so, what was the reason you couldn't go in reverse? Did you have to replace your reverse servo?
Dude, the way you did this video makes feel like I can do this DIY repair. The only thing I'm gonna do different is replacing the valve body rubber check balls with some made of a harder plastic called Torlon. Thanks.
Good luck man! The check ball upgrade is a common one. Just remember to take your time and double check everything! Cleanliness is the key to success here.
BTW, I put a harbor freight hand pump through the transmission dipstick and suck out some of the transmission fluid before taking out the pan. No need for a waterfall.
Oh I love this video One question Did you change the torque converter fluid and how much fluid for transmission and a torque converter I have the same transmission 4.6 4/70
There was no drain plug on this converter. You’ll need 8+ qts of transmission fluid, fluid capacity will vary from one model to another. Also, don’t try to fill the trans all at once…it’ll just end up piking a bunch out of the vent. Add 4 qts, start the engine, cycle from reverse to drive a few times, check level, add, repeat. I want to say this one took 11/12qts…sorry, it’s been awhile.
You really should get a magnetic pick up tool they really come in handy to get your tools out of that red pool of doom and also work great at removing the hydraulic valve body balls from valve body! And nows a good time to update the Sonax servo and also update the valve body also add some Ford friction additive to fluid when filling to keep it lasting! Otherwise great video and good tech tips! And for anyone who's gonna do this job at home do yourself a favor go to home depo or harbor freight and buy a tarp to lay down on ground under truck so when you drop that pan full of fluid you'll thank me because that ATF will stain the garage or driveway permanently and while you buying the tarp and pick up tool just buy a entire box of nitrile or latex gloves and a bag or roll of lint free shop towels. Not Terry Cloth Rags! It's must be lint free trust me you'll need em a couple pair or your mom's kitchen towls won't get you thru this messy job and any dirt or lint can cause issues you want to make sure it's as clean as possible for any transmission internal work oh and buy more than one can of brake fluid the non chlorinated type because one can is never enough!! So what are you waiting on? Get off your Moms couch and go get it done Son it's not gonna fix itself!
A magnet is a good idea...but I don’t think it’ll do you any favors for the rubber check balls! I like to use 2 large drain pans on top of a big drip pan...works well if you’re patient(which I was NOT in the video). Lots of brake cleaner...lots and lots. Just buy a case and be done.
A little routine maintenance goes a long way. The shudderfixx is just a band-aid though. If you don’t plan to keep the vehicle another 20-30k miles it’s an okay stop-gap measure.
That trans is no virgin, her plug was popped in the past. haha If you know you know. Not only was this a great instructional video but that Philly accent is too. 😀 Nice job man!
I know it's been quite a while since anybody made a post or comment on this video. I just got done watching it all the way through and was wondering if this would help with my 2005 e250 5.4 van.(4r75w) I'm getting a shutter and slip due to poor pressure. I added some Lucas stop slip which made a big difference. However I'm still getting some shutter and slip pretty much every gear. I will also add that I did the flesh without pressure removing a couple of quarts adding a couple of quarts carefully by removing the return line at the radiator. I'm thinking about attempting this project as it seems like it would help with my pressure problem. Any advice would be very gratefully accepted. Thank you for the great video and forgiving everyone this great knowledge! 🙏
It sounds like your E250 would be a good candidate for these fixes. Even fluid flushes can leave a ton of debris in the valve body. I’ve actually “fixed” some other brand transmissions just by fully disassembling and thoroughly cleaning the valve body and all the valves. These transmissions are notorious for wear on the main pressure regulator valve that tends to cause a pressure loss across the board, some are hard anodized to prevent that, but it’s hot or miss as to what units they were installed in. Good luck!
Any suggestions on how to order the parts? Seems like they only sell to licensed shops. Guess I just got to figure it out trying to do some more hunting. Thank you for responding I really really do super appreciate it. The info you provided is beyond helpful!
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. My mother has a 2001 Grand Marquis with the 4.6L. I’m looking to address the shudder issue and want to take care of it - I’m an old shade tree and comfortable taking this on. I have two questions. First - I don’t know if her car has the 4r70 or the 4r75. How do I find out? Or doesn’t it even matter? Second, is the j mod necessary? Seems the work you did in this video took care of the shudder. Thanks in advance….
The ‘01 GMQ has the 4r70, but for this process it really wouldn’t make a difference. I would probably suggest against the J-mod, it’s not typically a mod for the elderly. Lol
I purchase tires based on the color of smoke they produce and what sound they make while smoking. I ain’t afraid…..🤣 Thanks for the info. So I located the Sonnax parts today but not quite sure about the separator plate…. Do you recommend the 092 or 192? Just looking for reliability. Thanks. I appreciate your response.
Definitely go with the 092 separator plate, it’s got all the correct size holes for the 2001. The 192 has a smaller 1-2 shift feed or exhaust hole and can cause a sluggish or weak shift on earlier models. Conversely the 092 plate on a later 4r70 can cause a firm 1-2 shift under light throttle when cold. You can use the 092 on the later models without issue, but using the 192 plate could cause problems on the earlier models. I say “early” and “late” without certainty to a year model change. I DO know an ‘01 CV/GMQ takes the 092 plate and an ‘04+ Truck *should* have the 192.
It's going to say I really enjoyed the video learned a lot, posted earlier comment but I failed to proofread it my truck has 250,000 miles my question was for the pressure valve regulator should I get the 76948- 12K extra pressure or should I stay with the stock just like you did ?thanks Jeff
Hey Jeff, first off, thanks for watching! I would always recommend the standard pressure regulator valve UNLESS you are trying to make the trans shift a little harder. It’s all a matter of preference.
Hey thanks for the video. I have a 2001 f-150 4.6 2wd with a 4r70w. I was getting a hard shift going between 3rd to 4th and a shutter from time to time, so I decided to follow this video as a guide. I’m running into some trouble now that I’ve got everything buttoned back up. At first the truck wouldn’t go in reverse and when I was in the neutral position it would drive. Park worked just fine. Now the truck won’t stay running, it starts for like maybe 1 second and dies like it’s under a load or something. Any thoughts or comments are very appreciated. TIA
Hey Kirk, I’m pretty certain of the issue. Can you follow the link in the description and message me on Facebook? It’ll be much easier and faster to get it resolved.
Hey thanks for the offer. I did end up figuring out my mistake. When I was reassembling I didn’t line up the Manual shaft with the Manual valve. I dropped the pan and the valve body and got it lined up properly and it’s good to go. Thanks again for the video.
Hey Carport. I REALLY ENJOYED THE VIDEO. And I was wondering if you could help me out. My 2001 F150 lightly shudders when shifting down out of OD. But also, when throttle is lightly applied in 3rd or OD and engine is lightly lugging, I hear a sort of clicking, rattling noise that coincides with the RPMs. It still does it with OD off. On the other hand, if the clicking/knocking sound is happening in OD or 3rd, and I kick down and get the RPMs up, it disappears until the motor shifts back and lugs again. Ever ran across this? Thanks!
What you’re describing sounds exactly like a misfire. It sounds like it’s time for spark plugs and possibly even a coil or two. The 10th gen trucks(like yours) would sometimes suffer from water dripping off the cowl and onto the engine. During heavy enough rain, there could be enough to get down in the rearmost spark plug wells and cause a misfire. I’ve seen it many times.
I see where somebody already asked about my truck. But I didn’t understand, sorry I’m new to this truck but I love it dearly. It was my grandfathers, I’ve known it my whole life. 1995 5.0 4R70W 2WD. I get like a kick when mash the gas. I can’t really tell what it is and only happens sometimes. Like a jolt almost. Any idea what that might be? Thank you for responding to everyone’s comments. You’re a God send! 🙏
@@carportshenanigans5918 Around 30-40 mph. Just happens out of nowhere. I just “learned” today I think that apparently I have had the wrong o2 sensor in this truck for a long time now. It seems I have a downstream o2 sensor whereas I should have a upstream o2 sensor in my 1 o2 sensor spot before the cat. Smh. I just matched what was on the truck already not knowing a whole lot about trucks but learning literally everyday. Can you tell me if you’ve ever heard of this before?
30-40mph sounds a little early to be a converter shutter issue. O2 sensors from upstream to downstream are not very different on that truck… the main difference will be wire pigtail length. Both will be 4-wire heated narrow-band sensors. That shouldn’t cause your issue. To start with, I would check things such as motor and trans mounts and u-joints. Start simple and work your way up the ladder of difficulty. It can be very easy to overlook something simple in the quest to fix a “complex” problem. Good luck!
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thanks. I guess what I feel is normal for truck in her condition. I’ve kind of been working on the truck nonstop. Plugs, wires, canister purge solenoid, starter solenoid, removed cats, truck runs great now almost perfect, for about 15-20 miles. Then when I hit a hill, or even just on flat land sometimes, she doesn’t want to go over 2k rpm’s and 40 mph. Old forums have lead me to believe it’s possibly a fuel pump, or clogged injectors. Just wondering if you’re familiar with anything in that department and maybe have some insight?
I have a shutter and a howl noise it shutters when I drive and howls at idle can you help me figure out the problem I already bought a new torque converter flywheel and lockup valve seals pretty much everything I can think of other than what you mentioned in the video which I'm going to work on getting next great video very helpful any information you can give me on the howling noise and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated thanks
@@carportshenanigans5918 how do I fix the issue new transmission or is it a front yard fix I already ordered everything you have in the video even new solenoids new filter I got a new torque converter because it sounded like the noise was coming from there
I got a question for you. I’ve got a 2001 super crew F150 with a 54 motor and I’m sorry I can’t remember the transmission number right off hand but it look a lot like what’s in your video. The truck has 251,000 miles on it Transmission fluid got changed for the first time at 2:18 I think. Most the time the truck does all right every once in while it has a little issues shifting either downshifting when you go to hit the Excelerator or something in the same ballpark or whatever. What I want to know is if me doing what you just done to that one would it be help or hurt the transmission plus is there anything else that I probably need to do as well?
I do that during all my repairs . Taking , cussing, dadada… 🤣 😂… 🤷♂️ wish you would have filmed it…. I get it though. I always make sure to do the finale and the install on my channel… we should get together in a collaboration. You start the job. I’ll wrap it up 🤣 jk.. great video. Really enjoyed it!! Don’t see much on here about does transmissions! Like and a sub… Thank you man. Have a great week….🎉
I got a 2005 f150 v8 4x4 when you give it gas and it kick into passing gear it schtter when it kick in can you give me any idea what causes it. Thanks a lot 🙏 God bless
@@carportshenanigans5918 it only do it for about two or three seconds than it okay. It does it like that every time it kick into passing gear. Thanks God bless 🙏
@@carportshenanigans5918 it only does it every time it kick into over drive. For about two or three seconds like you talked in your video like you run off on the edge of the road. On the rough part thanks God bless
Question, have a 2007 5.4/Flex, if one is towing (3500lb boat) would installing the K092 plate resulting in firmer shifts between 1-2 put some extra stress on other tranny components? Understanding I dont push the tranny hard when towing, I take it easy. Just tryin' to get a shift feel difference between the K092 and K0192 plates. Thank you. Great Video.
If anything, the slightly firmer shift will increase durability as the quicker shift results in less time the trans is slipping clutches overlapping 1st and 2nd gear.
Great Information! Haven't owned a Ford for awhile (2008 4.2) & has been driving me nuts! Studder at take off ,at highway speed & curves , sometimes inclines, but put your foot in it ..gets it! My next project, hopefully works out for me! 🤞! Thanks again!!
That was great to look at. I need to no the parts that i need to do mind, a 2009 jeep wrangler, 42Rle. The shudder only happen at 40 mpr, after that it goes away. Will someone let me no what parts do i need.
I'm confused. I looked up the Sonnax 76948-04K installation instructions and they describe the following installation procedure (not a drop in for your application): Prepare Sonnax valve and sleeve as directed below: • 1995‐Earlier: For firmer, quicker TCC apply, install Sonnax sleeve as is. For OE TCC apply feel, drill through existing Sonnax sleeve orifice hole and out through the other side of the sleeve using a 1⁄16" drill bit. • 1996-Later: To prevent harsh TCC apply or engine lugging, drill through existing Sonnax sleeve orifice hole as outlined above. b. Install Sonnax valve and sleeve, securing with OE retaining clip, ensuring not to block sleeve orifice hole. c. Use a Sharpie pen on the back of Sonnax sleeve and align the arrow head with the single orifice hole and place at 6 o’clock (Figure 1). d. If the modification in step 2a will be done, draw a line on the back of the sleeve indicating the two orifice hole locations and place sleeve at 3 and 9 o’clock positions (Figure 2 rt and for 1996-Later there is a number of valve body modifications associated with installing this part: To prevent harsh TCC apply or engine lugging, drill through existing Sonnax sleeve orifice hole as outlined above. b. Install Sonnax valve and sleeve, securing with OE retaining clip, ensuring not to block sleeve orifice hole. c. Use a Sharpie pen on the back of Sonnax sleeve and align the arrow head with the single orifice hole and place at 6 o’clock (Figure 1). d. If the modification in step 2a will be done, draw a line on the back of the sleeve indicating the two orifice hole locations and place sleeve at 3 and 9 o’clock positions
Looking to do this on my ‘04 grand Marquis, I believe it has a 4R70W, torque converter is now bucking on slight inclines, previously had shuddering/bucking but I changed the fluid and filter. Is the process the same? Am I better off getting a new Torque converter? 132k miles.
Hey Chuck, the steps taken here are exactly the same for your Grand Marquis. Don’t waste your hard-earned cash on a converter, this will fix your issue! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
It is pretty easy. A lot of guys end up with with too harsh of a 2-3 shift when taking the springs out of the 2-3 shift servo…on my ‘01 Crown Vic it was barely noticeable. For a daily driver, I’d probably leave those springs in unless you’re willing to do a little trial and error.
@@carportshenanigans5918 I'm about to order the parts so I'll have them on hand when I get a day to do this job. Are you saying you would leave the springs in but still enlarge the specified holes? This is my daily and I'm not looking to hot rod it. I just want reliability and longevity. Thank in advance.
I just watched your video, it was great! My local shop drove my 2007 Ford Expedition Limited 5.4 liter for a few blocks and diagnosed it needing a new torque convertor ($1100 and possibly rebuild at $4k). I was so shocked. Anyway, it is shuddering when in overdrive shifting in lower gears. It doesn't do it all the time or at high speeds like on interstate. It feels like your driving over a rub board or a "rutted up" dirt road. I plan on finally selling (I have had for 10 years and its been a dream) and don't want to spend any more than I have to. Do you think this is something we should try (husband has a lift) or would you have other suggestions first? Plugs were all changed at 125k miles and it now has 209k miles. It looks so good still and the guy at the transmission shop said its runs great besides the shutter. Thanks so much for any help!!
Thanks for watching and commenting! The main time you’ll feel torque converter shudder is when the transmission shifts into OD under light to medium throttle between 45-55mph and sometimes when downshifting out of OD. If that is when it’s shuddering, then I would definitely suggest the replacing the parts outlined in this video. They are about the minimum required as they are targeted specifically at fixing torque converter shudder. The only caveat is that I believe your truck may use a different “Tuff Plate” than in this video. In the video, I use part #K092 and I believe your truck may need part #K0192. The later models had a different sized orifice for the 1-2 shift feed hole. It MAY cause a “harsh” 1-2 shift. Five minutes of reading on the Superior Trans website should clear up any questions regarding the separator plate. If it’s “shuddering” in any gear at lower speeds than I listed, then I would start looking more at spark plugs and/or ignition coils. Ford calls for 100k mile spark plug changes, but even the best replacement plugs you can get for these trucks typically don’t last more than 80k miles. Good luck, hope this helps, and if you have any other questions, feel free to drop them here!
I believe this is what I'm experiencing with my 2010 F150 4.6L 4x4 . We bought it from my Wife's Company, they owned it from new and gave me a file full of regular maintenance records. I have out about 10K on it but it had 175K when we bought it. What I experienced felt like when you get on the shoulder and hit the "wake up bumps"!!!! It was happening around town between 45-50 mph but it was happening today between 70-75 mph on the Cruise Control my guess when it got on the torque converter on slight upgrades. It wasn't kicking down. Also, going up some very slight grades the engine would rev up then down, just enough to move the needle on the tach but no shudder or vibration. I have no record of trans work on this truck, but, I believe it had fluid changes. How do I trouble shoot this accurately???
I believe they used both the 4R75 and 6R80 in the 2010’s. The first step is identifying your transmission. A full-function scan tool would be ideal for diagnosing it. Short of that, I can tell you it typically happens under light throttle when the converter locks, much as you describe...it also sounds like your converter may be slipping from your description...IF your torque converter is slipping under normal cruise conditions, it WILL need to be replaced. Chances are, the truck was probably driven for 50k miles with the converter shuddering. It’s a LOT cheaper to replace the torque converter before a total failure ends up taking the whole trans with it. There are a few different additives you can try to confirm that what you’re feeling is torque converter shudder. I believe one is called “Shudder-gard” or “Shudder-fix”. They’re cheap, and if there is a noticeable improvement, then you’ve confirmed the issue.
@@elimrqz Since using the Shudder Fix product its been all good. I HAVE had to add the product 2 more times but it lasts a year to 1.5 years each time. When it happens again I'll get a fluid change and add the product again and it will probably last longer.
Hey Carport, i love this video it was very helpful. i just bought a 04 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer in decent condition or atleast i thought test drive went great ... until i got about 25 mins into my ride home when i noticed the shudder that started at 45mph ended at 48 mph then started again at 55mph and stops at 60+ mph ... i was cussing up a storm thinking i just bought a hunk of metal. I am fairly certain after going threw this same issue with 00 ford expedition that its a Torque convertor shudder AKA overdrive shudder. I need to do this exact repair but my question is what are the part numbers for those gaskets? and should i also replace the shift selnoids while im in there
Jeremy, thanks for watching and commenting. The valve body gaskets may differ from one application to another, so I didn’t post those part numbers. What I recommend is a search including your year, make, model and see what’s available on Amazon, that’s what always do...I don’t always use the same vendor either, I usually just look for the best price/fastest shipping. As for the shift solenoids, if it hits all the gears, I’d leave them alone. Very often, aftermarket electrical parts don’t hold up like OE parts do, as many, if not most, of them are made offshore. If it’ll give you piece of mind, go for it...just keep the originals incase the replacements crap out. Good luck!
I have an 05 crown vic with the shudder, pulled it apart and the OD band was smoked and the reverse drum was badly scored. From a dead stop, in drive, I would have to rev it up a bit then it would kick into gear. do you think that its a torque converter issue or valve body pressure regulator issue? all the electric solenoids tested ok.
It sounds like your problems all stemmed from a pressure issue, likely in the valve body. There could also be worn pin bores in the trans case that’s letting excess fluid to pass the servo pins, causing a loss of pressure in the circuit. At this point, you’ll most likely be better off with a replacement unit with converter.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Yes Im sure it was a pressure issue, I appreciate your expert opinion. The overdrive servo pin was really sloppy and I believe it was the pressure valve in the valve body that was hanging up. thanks for the reply.
This is an awesome video. I have the identical problem, but the transmission on my 2007 Ford Expedition is a 6R75. Would my parts be the same as yours?
It depends on who you bought the valve body from. If it’s just a direct OE replacement, it will not have the aftermarket TCC bypass valve installed in this video...that’s kinda the centerpiece of the entire job.
Why not buy the Sonnax zip kit and do all the valve body updates? Plus you’ve got the OD servo exposed to be able to take it out and up date that servo pin. Those snap rings are know for breaking and the Sonnax servo pin cures that problem. It’s all out there in the open, so I normally do all the updates and get it over with.
There are unnecessary items in the Zip Kit, also the 2-3 accumulator stiffener plate requires drilling and tapping the valve body. The Tuff Plate is a drop-in seperator plate that doesn’t require drilling and tapping. Drilling and tapping a valve body is just another potential issue for the DIY’er. As for the OD servo snap-ring failing....I’ve NEVER seen that happen, not once in countless 4R70/75’s. Is the updated servo pin you’re referring to the one with o-rings? Unless you’re trans case is completely worn out, that pin won’t go in without cutting the o-rings. Also, I don’t want the average Joe pulling his OD servo out for no good reason then not being able to land the pin back in the OD band. That’s an easy, EASY mistake that leaves you with no OD or manual 2nd gear. I’ve been down those roads before! Lol. Just because a company produces a part, doesn’t mean you need it. I’ve seen many 200k mi 4R’s that don’t need anything more than what I did in this video.
Carport Shenanigans I’ve personally seen a ton of 4r75 transmissions with that overdrive band dropped because of a broken snap ring. In time it does wear the guide hole and eventually hammers the hell out of that snap ring. I just changed the one in my 07 crown vic and pieces of the inner spring were missing. I used transmission assembly lube prior to installation, so if you carefully do your deal instead of just jamming it in, it’ll seat the o-ring properly and it slides right in. My car has 115k on it, so you aren’t going to tell me that my case is wore out at installation of that pin. The way you were searching for those 8 check balls in that valve body indicated to me that maybe you haven’t had that many AODE/4R70/4R75 valve body’s out. I can pull them 8 check balls out and place the new ones back in blind folded. The 8 updated check balls also come with the zip kit. That number 7 check ball is a problem child.
Well, I can only go based on the units I’ve had hands on. Make a video showing the scenario you’re talking about, I’d love to see it. Also from my experience, all the lube in the world wouldn’t make that servo pin slide in. Also, I’m pretty well experienced with installing O-rings. Lol. I never install an o-ring dry. I thought that was common knowledge.
Carport Shenanigans I’ve never had an issue getting an updated servo pin in, so I’m not sure why you’ve had trouble. My overdrive band itself busted, so during the rebuild, the updated servo pin was removed and guess what was still in place? The orings on my Sonnax servo pin. Lol
Probably because the pin bore was worn...that IS the exact purpose of those “updated” pins. I know you refuse to believe that your pin bore was worn, but these pins fit almost as tightly as a valve in a valve guide...at least in a 4R70! Maybe you had a defective case, I don’t know what to tell you.
That little screen you said you had to fight with putting it back in, ford says that after brake in, you can just leave it out. It's just a little saftey measure they put in on first assembly.
Hello. I recently bought a 2003 Ford F150 4x4 with the 5.4L Triton. I noticed that after roughly 2k miles that a shudder is starting to happen in the transmission. My question is how do you know if you should be doing these replacements as shown or replace the torque convertor itself where the shudder comes from? Just replacing these parts does nothing if the convertor is bad correct? I am no expert, I am just trying to understand how to approach this issue. I think I am adventurous enough to try this, just not sure if I should.
Great question Joe! There is one sure fire way to check, and that is using a full function scanner like a snap-on where you can simultaneously look at vehicle speed and RPM in graph format. At a steady speed, with lockup engaged (50-55mph is usually sufficient) you would look for any flares in rpm, indicating the clutch inside the converter is slipping...there is little chance of coming back from that. Another, more common way to check for slippage is to watch your tach and do pretty much the same thing as I mentioned above with the scanner. Watch for fluctuations in the RPM, indicating slippage. You will see slight RPM fluctuations during a shudder because that is actually the clutch slipping briefly with a big change in load. These modifications increase pressure to the lockup clutch, which greatly improves holding power. Also, if your fluid is very dirty, try changing it first. If your fluid is dirty AND has a strong, distinct “burnt” smell, that is a good indicator that a rebuild may be necessary. When the converter fails completely, it typically takes the rest of the trans with it... if even just because it’s pumped all it’s guts into the transmission housing and valve body.
@@carportshenanigans5918 I would like to thank you for this video. I did exactly what you said and it totally gave the transmission for my 2003 F-150 a brand new life. It is working solid now, and I am very grateful for your guidance in making that a reality for me so cheaply.
Thanks for the kind words Joe! I’m glad you were able to get it taken care of. Automotive repairs can be so costly, especially if incorrectly diagnosed. This is why I like to share my knowledge and experience, to help people get done what they need to without bleeding their wallets dry! Lol
That sounds very much like the early stages of torque converter shudder. The truck in the video did that about 4yrs and 20k miles prior to me making this video. At the time, it was ONLY during the 4-3 downshift at very specific speeds and throttle inputs. Basically, a condition they never experienced during their normal driving, so I left it alone at that point.
Good question! Lubegard is a great product. I used it in my daily driven ‘01 Crown Victoria. First time lasted around 30k miles, and the second time(with trans flush) lasted about 15k miles. It’s an effective band-aid to buy you some time, but it’s not a permanent fix like this is. Lubegard is basically just an additive package that is heavy with friction modifier... that allows the torque converter clutch to slip more smoothly during engagement, it’ll actually slip a little more. Following the procedures in this video, however, fixes the mechanical issue of low apply(and holding) pressure to the torque converter clutch.
Great info. One thing why I go for an f150 5.0 it’s bcs guys like you who are ok sharing knowledge! Thanks Sr! Now my 2011 5.0 6r80 shudders when accelerating at 2,000-3,500 rpms just before changing gears from 1-2 and 2-3 gear... do you think is the torque converter? Tomorrow I’ll add shudder fix if it improves then I will change the torque converter...
@@carportshenanigans5918 I wanted to come back and say thanks for the video. I was surprised at how much better it drives now.. and no more torque converter shudder. I was having some light shudder at like 38-45 mph (when the rpm's are low in OD) and it's cleared up. Thanks!
Yes it will, Russell. However you do NOT need the “Tuff plate” separator plate for the valve body as the earlier transmissions had a plate bolted to the valve body that prevented the 2-3 shift piston cover from dimpling or damaging the OE separator plate. Also, be sure to order valvebody gaskets specific to your truck(year, make, model).
Wanted to ask a question I done everything you done here to a 2006 expedition because it had a shudder. So I got everything put back. I found three quarters of the overdrive pin e clip on top of the valve body so got a new one. I still have a shudder but not as bad any ideas what I can do.
Hey buddy great video, ummm, we have a Mazda BT 50 the newer model. As soon as we put the gear in reverse R or drive D, the vehicle just moves unlike normally you would have to give it gas to move. I've got a question, does this mean the Torque converter clutch or TCC solenoid valve is stuck in open or close or however it works, causing the torque converter clutch to be engaged as soon as the engine starts? And when we hold by applying the brakes the engine shakes alot and smokes like it is going to stall. Really appreciate your help here. thanks Rudolph
@carport shenanigans got a link to the parts you used? having shudder issues with my 05 f150. issues only show when i have the overdrive on. shes got 160k on it now.
Starting @0:35, I go over all the parts with part numbers. I typically buy everything through Amazon so I can get the vendor with the best price/availability.
@@carportshenanigans5918 so I put the parts in today and it fixed the shudder but now I have a slip between 3-4 on the shift it will jump up about 500 rpm before 4th engages
Solid video, though it's a shame about the lost footage at home. You really demystified some of the components of automatic transmissions, which can be kind of scary to think about working with on your own.
Yeah, I would do everything from the video plus the actual J-Mod. The main pressure regulator boost valve you saw me replace in the video is a stock replacement from Sonnax, BUT they also offer a higher capacity boost valve so it ramps up pressure more aggressively...so you can have nice part throttle shifts and stronger WOT shifts...I have one on my “daily” and absolutely love it.
I am probably just missing this but where are the parts list to purchase? I need to do this ASAP. Just completed a CAm Phaser job and now the trans shudders in OD.
Hi Carport Shenanigans, Will this work for a 4R70W from a 1999 E150. I know it a bit different than the 2004 transmission you are working on. For now I put Lucas oil and Instant Shudder fixx and it fixed about 90 % of issues. just want your opinion if your fix would work on a older transmission model. Thanks in advance and great video.
94 Lincoln Town car with the AODE ., bout 50,000 miles ,& only shudders on up shift to overdrive 4 th gear ...It sounds just like you are running over some rumble strips on the road! I have a feeling my fluid & filter change ( about 13 .5 liters ) after draining the torque converter etc, will temporarily get rid of it . I used full synthetic cause it's just better all around like synthetic oil is . Stands up to heat , stays thin when cold (stays in grade) & has superior lubrication...I'm hoping to do your up grade later on "IF "YOU THINK IT WILL WORK ...Enjoyed your video.
It will definitely work, BUT, with that low-mileage I would just change the fluid using Mercon V. If it still does it or comes back shortly, try adding a bottle of shutter-guard to it. I used that stuff on my personal car early on and it lasted 30k miles the first time and about 10k the second time. That’s how I knew that it was time for me to stop trying to band-aid the problem and fix it right.
I have 2001 mercury grand marquis, with trans shutter. It only has 45k on the car, do you think maybe doing the same thing that you did on the f-150 would work on my grand marquis?
With such low mileage, I’d just go with a fluid and filter change and see what that does for it…I’d be surprised if it needed any more attention than that.
Hi...I see from comments you're located in SC. I have a 2000 F150 4X4 5.4 with just 111K miles with this occasional shutter issue on 4-3 shift. Could I bring this to you to repair? I'm near Charlotte.
hey hope you still respond, I am having problems with my 2000 mustang with the same trans, it revs and drive while only crawling, but drives fine in reverse. i’m not getting any codes for it and it’s been like this since i bought it a bit ago, I already replaced the torque converter and filter recently and had no luck, wondering if this could fix it.
It is a possibility that your issue could be in the valvebody, it is also possible that your trans is just smoked. The only thing in this video that might help at all is the main pressure regulator valve. From the sounds of it, there is a serious pressure loss issue, internally, or the clutches are cooked. This would require some diagnostic and unfortunately, this isn’t really something I could advise you on via the internet. If it were me, I would make sure the fluid isn’t burnt before anything. If the fluid looked okay, I’d take the valvebody down to disassemble, clean and inspect; replacing any worn valves I found. In some extreme cases, oversized valves are needed and their corresponding bores need to be resized. At that point, it may be better to just buy a reman valvebody IF that is where the problem lies.
@ yes that’s what I’m doing first, I’m replacing everything in the valve body first but if not I will drop the transmission again and take a deeper look inside
In the super tuff kit that little piece you were talking about, does that go on the end of the 2-3 shift piston? Also which end goes in and which end goes out?
If you’re talking about the little cup shaped metal piece that came with the Super Tuff plate, it does go on the tip of the 2-3 piston cover. It is best installed with a dab of petroleum jelly, the cupped end goes towards the 2-3 piston cover. Pro Tip: keep your petroleum jelly in the refrigerator so it doesn’t instantly liquify and become useless!
@@carportshenanigans5918 Cool! All of my parts are ordered hopefully this will fix my shudder, looks really simple with your really well put together tutorial.
@@tylerkline962 Thank you sir! Did you do the repair and what did you think of the results? I am starting to have this bog down effect and thought this would be a good fix.
Great video, appreciated it !! 💯🤙🏾 My 2015 tacoma 4.L vibrates under light acceleration, and it always does that at 1200 to 1500 rpm .. Always. As I press the pedal down more I feel the vibration stop and rpms spikes up to about 2000 rpms . This happens mostly on small hills when I just need a little throttle to make it up the hill. Do you have any suggestions what this could be or any advice ? Thank you.
Oh just to add nothing shudders or vibrates when I go full throttle on the road , so I don't think it could be a suspension problem or any maybe . Its always under light acceleration at 1200 rpms to 1500 , going up small hills at times.
Sounds to me like you may have a spark plug or ignition coil starting to give up. This is where it’s real nice to have a full function scanner to view data. Is the check engine light on?
No check engine light . This a second hand car btw, just got it 6 months ago with 60k miles . Thanks for your time just want to get rid of this shuddering n vibrating. So you don't think it's anything to do with the drive train ? I hope it's just a spark plug or fuel economy problem.
I’d say that it’s definitely time to at least take a look at the plugs. Usually by the time they’re recommended, by the maintenance schedule, they’re well worn. I always go early on my spark plug replacement, especially on coil-on-plug ignitions systems. Worn out plugs require a LOT more voltage for the spark to jump the gap. Changing them early helps prolong ignition coil life.
Thank you ! Getting 6 new plugs n cleaning out my MAF sensor as well . Hope it does the job 🙏🏾 No idling problem it's just this vibration at 1200 to 1500 rpms . Thanks for the help brother , great video once again ! 👍🏾
Good video. Just subscribed. I haven’t touched my 03 4r70w valve body yet but now at least I know what to do with that. Do you have any thoughts on friction type for high performance applications? I bought the sonnax direct and forward drums so I can put an extra friction in each drum. Hopefully be around 600hp
I’ve heard of guys putting 600hp through stock 4R70’s save for the J-mod. That being said, if you’re going to build one, I would look into Alto Clutches...specifically the Alto reds. Good clutches and bands(especially extra clutches) will keep you from having to go bananas with using excessively high fluid pressures to prevent slippage. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you are opening up the pan and changing your trans fluid and filter this is an optional repair , most shudder issues will be resolved with just filter and fresh fluid.
Only if you’re going to change your fluid and filter every 10-15k miles, even then it’s questionable once you get over 100-150k miles. Also, changing your fluid doesn’t fix worn pressure regulator valves or cracked separator plates.
My 2003 Expedition with a 5.4 has recently started giving me a quick 'skid' sound when going from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration. Should replacing the valves, servos, and adding a SuperTuff plate address this?
@@carportshenanigans5918 Has been shifting fine after the little 'chirp' at the shift point. But on Sunday, driving down the highway at speed when suddenly it cut out and all the gauge needles went nuts. Full tilt both directions. Pulled over, turned the key off,. Restarted and drove fine as long as I didn't get back up to highway speeds. Thank you for your reply by the way.
I would take it to a shop to have them scan the PCM and possibly do some diagnostic work. If there is a potential electrical issue, it needs to be addressed before attempting and mechanical repairs to the trans.
Good Video. I'm curious what exactly is meant by the word "shutter" mine seems to rapidly go in and out of OD when driving at 65 mph, usually when I'm goin up a hill or so. This seems like it might be "shutter" it feels like a very quick loss of power as if the transmission is slipping out of OD and then back into gear. Another video points to the OD servo, I hate to guess. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video and help.
If it is happening very rapidly, that is most likely torque converter shudder. It could also possibly be a misfire, so it’s important to make sure you’re vehicle isn’t in need of a tuneup. It is most likely not the OD servo. What the shudder is, is when the torque converter tries to lock or unlock(like on a downshift) and the friction material in the converter actually chatters...this often happens because of a break-down of the transmission fluid and/or a slight loss of pressure which can cause slow engagement/disengagement of the lockup clutch, allowing the two friction surfaces to chatter against one another. It’s a long-winded, but hopefully it helps!
No, I didn’t make any changes to the separator plate. I was looking to maintain stock shift feel...if it was mine, I would have drilled some out to firm it up slightly.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Just got my plate today, will have to compare it to my old one, thanks for the comeback, I also got all the valves you did plus the overdrive valve from sonnax
David, I have a 2006 F150 Lariat 4x4 with 5.4 Triton engine. I have been struggling with getting a vibration out of it when accerlerating up through 57 through 63 mph. The truck runs great otherwise. I have road balanced the tires but the problem persists. Any ideas what it could be?
I have a 2012 f150 4X4. The shudder spoken of is in the fifth and sixth gear.. I noticed the trans stays in sixth till almost very last moment at stop can you give me information to fix
It really only affects it if you have the later model without the plate stiffener under the 2-3 accumulator. Then I would, as usual, recommend the Tuff Plate and you’ll need to match up and measure the holes from your existing separator plate to transfer to the Tuff Plate. Simple stuff, just a little tedious.
@@carportshenanigans5918lol here I am watching your video, Didn’t even realIze I had already watched and commented! Unfortunately the mentioned car has since been totaled (RIP) 😢 but I’m having some odd shuttering on this new to me 2003 grand marq with about 96k miles. Would love to do the jmod but not sure if I trust it doing what it’s currently doing. Has an odd shudder that comes and goes, doesn’t seem to matter if OD is off or on and seems to happen in all gears. The whole feeling like driving over a wash board or rumble strip thing. Unsure of fluid maintainance or if it’s ever been changed. I already have 12 quarts Mercon v, filter and Dorman pan with drain plug on hand. Any input or ideas? I’m a bit scared to mess with her 😅
Nice to know this vid was worth another look to ya! Lol. On your 03 GMQ, I would start with a good fluid/filter change, I think you’re on the right path with that. I would also try some shudder-fix. IF and only IF that cures the shuddering then you could follow the procedures outlined in this video when it starts shuddering again. You should get AT LEAST 15k miles before it acts up again, but it’s typically closer to 25-40k on average. The Tuff Plate is an extra thick separator plate that solves a potential issue where the 2-3 shift servo smacks the plate, eventually hammering the plate until it cracks and starts cross-leaks. This is typical on higher mileage units and only an issue on later models…I want to say ‘99+ but I don’t remember the exact year they did away with the stiffener plate bolted to the valve body that served the same purpose. The Jmod is just drilling out some holes in the Tuff Plate and removing some springs. For the best of both worlds in these cars, I recommend leaving the springs in and just drilling out the necessary feed and exhaust holes to the proper sizes. Quicker shifts without any harshness. I’ve heard a lot of mustang guys report the 2-3 shift being so harsh they had to take it apart to put the springs back in. I’ve not yet had that issue with the Panther cars, it may be a different calibration causing it, I can’t say for sure.
@@carportshenanigans5918 thank you for all the information. As far as fluid swap, what’s your take? Are you more of a pan drop guy, pulling the cooler line guy, or forced machine flush kinda guy? Additionally, how can I determine if it’s shudder or misfire? I’m still not sure and I’m praying it’s an ignition issue. Lowest gear I have seen it happen in is 2nd gear at roughly 30 mph when starting to go up a hill. I could be crazy, but it also seems to happen significantly more if I have the air conditioning on. I don’t have any engine codes, I don’t have any trans codes. I have tried to use mode 6 data using forscan but it doesn’t give me a ton of information. I’ve got a few 0.xx% on a few cylinders in mode 6 for various cylinders, but nothing that really stands out. I’d really love to figure out whatever the heck is going on so I can have more confidence in the car. Just did the water pump.. that was a ton of fun 😬
Anyone know how to find mechanics that can do these jobs? I have a mini cooper that needs a timing guide..No one will do it, They want to replace the Entire engine..I also need this dine on a Mitsubishi Spyder..I used Instant Shutter fix and it worked instantly..But I would like to fix the problem, I guess Ill have to do it myself.
Karen, Mini Coopers are a total pain to work on...Look up a vid by "EricTheCarGuy" on how much angst he went through working on his....Some ding dong thawt it was cool to build a motor all wrapped up like a Burrito...And that's purty much how you have to take it apart...Like unwrapping a Burrito 🌯
@@ToyManFlyer1100 You are right about that...Now because the mini sat for a year it got water in it and is molding. I am just going to sell for parts..uuhhggg..
I know this video is a little old but I'm wondering if you can point me in the right direction. I have a 2004 F-150 HD with I believe a 4R70W transmission. My issue is a shudder when I take off from a dead stop. This shudder doesn't appear until the transmission is completely warm, say 50 highway miles. Otherwise the transmission feels fine. I have driven it several thousand miles since I got it. The problem seems to be getting a little worse but not horrible. I can eliminate the shudder if I take off very easily. The truck has about 160,000 miles on it and the trans fluid looks really good, almost too good for as many miles as it has. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Could the wrong trans fluid cause this problem?
To be honest, it sounds more like spark plugs. At 160k miles, it’s likely about time for its second set. I would also start looking at the possibility of one or more ignition coils as well. I say this because torque converter shudder can only happen in 4th(sometimes 3rd on rare occasions). The converter does not lockup in any other gear but 3rd and 4th. Regardless, it sounds like time for a proper scan tool to view real-time data in order to get an accurate diagnosis.
I definitely would, with a tuner you get a little more flexibility with adjusting shift firmness. @Driving Intelligence just did this along with a shift kit from Superior and he has a tuner on his 10th gen F150, he may have a little more insight on that.
I absolutely will do a J-mod video when the next one comes along, I’m just not sure when that is. Until then, I hope this will get you by: The official J-mod how-to video by Rizzo th-cam.com/video/gbIAKfhrdV0/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video! Would have liked to see the lost video, especially as it relates to the placement of that one filter. Perhaps you can add a link showing where you found that on the internet. I am experiencing a driveline shudder when my TC locks up in 4th gear (4R70W) with no other drivability issues. It sounds like your video recommendations could remedy this? Hope you can give me some advice! 206K on this 2002 F150 4x4 with 5.4 Triton
@Driving Intelligence, this would definitely be the way to go to remedy your torque converter shudder. One thing I forgot to mention, unhook the battery while you do this. Not for safety, but to allow the computer to relearn shift parameters. Many people say it’s not necessary, but I like to do it anyway. Also, if your converter has been shuddering for years, this may not completely remedy it...but this is a much cheaper and easier job than replacing a converter, even if you need to replace the converter, these mods will work perfectly with it and help extend its life.
Depends on what you want, Sonnax also makes a main pressure boost valve that increases pressure at WOT to make full throttle shifts a little firmer. Part #4R70W-LB1. It won’t make it harsh like a “shift kit, just provide a little more pressure under heavy throttle. It works great for towing and I use them every time I J-mod one of these transmissions.
@@carportshenanigans5918 last question I hope! I have been doing alot of research. Are you familiar with the J-Mod from the Crown Vic Community? Supposed to take care of alot of the problems areas. And can this be done with the mods you recommend? Thanks!
The J-mod works perfectly with the parts outlined in the video. Keep in mind, the J-mod is essentially like putting in a shift kit. It’s easy to make it hit too hard during gear changes, if you get carried away. There is tons of information on the J-mod(archived) in the GMN and CVN forums as well as in the tccoa forums. You may also be able to find some useful info on clickclickracing forums.
I have a 2006 expedition with the 4R75E, the shuddering I am getting is when it is in high gear 45-50 mph and add throttle slowly it shudders. With these parts you installed in the video correct this? Thanks in advance
Absolutely, as long as it’s confirmed to be torque converter shudder and not a misfire. A torque converter shudder will (typically) feel like a few bumps when the converter is locking and can feel a bit more harsh when unlocking- like when adding a little throttle just like you described. A misfire you’ll be able to get to last a lot longer at that speed & load, especially if on a slight incline- although it will typically be very inconsistent. Hope this helps!
My 01 crown vic shudders under light acceleration like when coming out of a curve ( sometimes)... Its a 4.6 with 4r70w...could u plz tell me what would get rid of it possibly...?????
Without a solid, consistent fault pattern, it can be very difficult to diagnose. My first step would be to scan the computer for any fault codes, check the level and condition of the trans fluid, as well as checking the condition of all spark plugs and coil boots.
Most of that issue is due to wear of the main pressure regulator valve, so yes the items in the video will fix that issue. Being a van application, I’d recommend a Sonnax line pressure booster kit if you’re in there anyway, it goes in the same bore as the main pressure regulator and increases line pressure proportionally to demand. It’s a good HD improvement. Sonnax main pressure regulator Part # 76948-09 Sonnax line pressure booster Part # 4R70W-LB1
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you VERY much for your reply! I actually after looking at rebuilding my valve body did some looking around and found the last Sonnax 095HD valve body for my van on Rock Auto for $283 so I grabbed it. Everywhere else it was about $600ish. Those upgrades are in the new valve body I ordered. It comes with the 1-2 accumulator HD springs and I am planning on replacing the 1-2 piston and the same with the 2-3. Are the beefier CT Powertrain purple spring for the 2-3 a good upgrade? Also I have found both pistons in the Sonnax variety. Is there ANYTHING else that a guy should change while the valve body is out. I am NOT a tranny guy nor able to tear into anything too complicated in that respect. This is a 2001 E250 I am converting to a camper van and tow vehicle. I love bulletproofing things as I am able. Once again TYVM for responding as I saw your video was older.
That valve body is a good buy and can save a bunch of hassle. The upgraded 2/3 shift spring should be perfect for what you’re doing. The only other things I might recommend for your application is an auxiliary trans cooler and a trans temp gauge. These transmissions shift best between 160-200 degrees. Below that the fluid is still a little viscous and if you run over 210* for any length of time you start to cook the fluid and will need to perform more frequent fluid changes. Good luck on your camper/hauler build!
@@carportshenanigans5918 That's funny you suggested those things. This van is like all original mechanically. The yellow plug was still in the pan when I changed the filter and fluid. It has a tranny cooler factory but I replaced all the lines and added a filter adapter and plumbed it through a PH8 (big chevy filter) so I shouldn't have to drop the pan in the future. I also added a transmission temperature pressure sender which is threaded into the Line test port but just playing with the gauge it didn't come up much with reving in the shop. I also added a temperature probe into a bung I welded into the trans pan. So after everything is done I will get it out and drive it. It is a huge pain to get in and out of the garage so after I get the valve body and such in and calvan the motor along with tune up and all hoses I will see how it runs and drives. Outa be WAY better than the old original parts and such. Thank you very much for your help!
My 2007 F150 shudders at very low speed and at around 45mph when it goes into overdrive, feels like driving over rumble strips. Will this fix help with that? I was told by a transmission shop that I needed a new torque converter.
That’s the fix every trans shop will sell you…it makes them more money. This fix won’t “help” with it, it will resolve the issue. Just make 100% sure it’s not a misfire, the torque converter won’t do anything to cause a shutter at low speed as it only locks in 3rd/4th gears under the proper conditions. I’ve seen trans shops and general repair shops with “master techs” get fooled by a stubborn misfire.
Sorry for the late response! If it feels like it’s shuddering into ANY gear, than you have other problems. Torque converter shudder can only happen when shifting into or out of OD or 3rd gear(3rd gear converter shudder is EXTREMELY rare).
@@hambone950 my first step would be to confirm there are no misfires. Fords of this era can experience misfires without setting a check engine light. I forget the exact number, but the PCM has to record 15k or 16k misfires on a specific cylinder before setting a code for a misfire on that particular cylinder.
@@carportshenanigans5918 i replaced the coils, coil pack and plugs. It shuttered really bad after replacing them it wasnt so pronounced. this will be my second tranny flush. also there was a lot of metal, grey, in the pan and all over the valve body.
Would you have any advice for my problem .... 89 AOD I have significant vibrations in 3rd gear around 1800rpms, and it goes away when it upshifts to OD? drive-shaft was balanced week ago. Thanks
@@carportshenanigans5918 No vibrations in N, P or OD at any Rpms but in 3rd starts around 1.8-2k it seems its getting better when over 40mph. So far I replaced all ujoints yoke (+balancing shaft), AOD tailshaft bushing and seal, new torque converter and flex plate. I also upgraded 2-3 accumulator(aluminum),super servo and B&M shift kit. Thank you for your help...I'm running out of ideas.....one last detail it is retrofitted AOD behind 289.
Hmmm...seems like you’ve already hit most of the likely causes. It wouldn’t affect it in only one year, but I have to ask anyway. Is the flex plate the correct 28 oz balance for the 289? All 1981 and later 5.0’s were 50 oz. Also, is there any noise associated with the vibration? Thumping/clunking?
@@carportshenanigans5918 Yes it is 28oz.....sometimes i can hear whistling sound coming from i think transmission since i never hear that with C4, i can barely hear it, but no Thumping/clunking.....im getting some parts for the valve body today maybe ill see something suspicious when i take it apart.
I have a 2000 f150 5.4 4x4 with the 4r70 tranny my issue is that when I'm at 35-45mph it high idles,the rpm goes up at 2500-3000rmp like if I was pushing the gas pedal, does this every other day,but I I push the overdrive off it works great with no issues, would this help?
So I have torque converter shudder in my 06 Expedition, I did this repair and it made it much better but it is still doing it but not as bad, I guess its not really a permeant fix there must be something else wrong.
Thank you for the video! I had already ruled-out misfire of the engine and noticed that my problem was gear-dependent. The shudder would only happen when down-shifting from fourth gear to third under light throttle (at 60 to 70 mph and 1700 to 2000 RPM, light throttle made it "buzz" for a half second before down-shifting). However, the first to second shift became very harsh after these mods. That is because I needed to use the K0192 plate instead of the K092 plate shown in the video. Everything was perfect after changing these out (had to get into transmission a second time). The K0192 plate has a smaller diameter hole below the 1-2 accumulator and is for later model F-150 trucks (mine is a 2007 lariat with a 5.4 Triton V8 engine). I would recommend buying the K0192 SuperTuff plate and note the hole sizes of your stock plate. If needed, you could drill the 0.073in hole out to a 0.092in hole with a 3/32in drill bit to match your stock plate. Also, I needed 11 quarts of oil to fill my transmission. Could buy 13 quarts and return what you don't use. Thanks again for the video. It helped me a ton.
Glad it helped! Yeah, I did address the different hole sizes for the 1-2 shift in the two different plates... I probably should’ve addressed that with a little more detail. Shift feel is very subjective, I like using the larger hole always. What some people say is firm, some say is harsh. To maintain STOCK shift feel, the right plate is a necessity. Like you said, if you’re not sure, you can order the K0192 and drill out the hole if necessary. Most of the time I’m doing a J-Mod, so those holes get opened up beyond .092” anyway. I tend to take it for granted that a lot of people want their vehicles to shift smoothly, I’d prefer barking the tires with each shift! Lol. Thanks for taking the time to comment! Hopefully the more detailed discussion regarding the K092 vs. K0192 plate will be helpful to someone in the future.
I did this and i am still having shutters
@@hambone950 your problem may be in with your OD servo Piston as these have a clip that break Where the shaft is held in place.
@@jacobmontano8938 if it where broke would the piece come out on its own?
@@hambone950 no you would have to remove the valve body to see if the servo piston has the clip in it but if it looses the clip usually it gets stuck in the valve body usually sticking a valve
I think you just saved me a TON of money on my 2013 F150!!! Taking it into the shop next week and I'll request that they do your procedure. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
I enjoyed the video, thanks so much for your no-nonsense approach. It had enough information in it to make me feel confident enough to want to do the job myself. I have a 2002 F150 with the 4.2 liter and 4R70W with 48,000 original miles and bucks/hesitates during light acceleration right after shifting in overdrive. This was happening before and after I replaced the gas filter, spark plugs, coil and spark plug wires. I ordered the same parts you used, including a new set of check balls (cheap insurance) from this place out of New Jersey. I also ordered a new transmission oil pan with a built-in drain plug in it to avoid messes for future drain and fills.
Sorry I’m late Andre, good luck and let us know how it goes!
Absolutely amazing results! I love the harder shift to 2nd gear with the tuff plate. The rest of the shifts are smooth like butter, can’t even feel it shift into OD anymore which is where I got the shudder. I would recommend this to anyone who is having shuddering issues before replacing any components like the torque converter or tranny itself. $100 in parts fixed the issue instantly. Thank you for this amazing tutorial!!
Tyler, I’m glad you got it handled bud! Thanks for commenting back with your results and I’m glad my video helped you out.
Curious to if your overdrive shutter felt like a bad u joint in the driveshaft almost? My e250 van feels like a driveshaft issue when loaded pulling up a grade but the driveshaft checks out. When towing my trailer I leave OD off to save the band.
The Ford motor Co. recommends throwing the filter away. It's for factory start up. Great video.
Is this true? Can someone else weigh in on this or provide a link for info?
This is such a great video ! Thank you for the time you spent making it. I just took mine apart and cleaned everything up . My truck went from not moving at all to atleast moving forward and shifting through the gears. It won’t go in reverse. I’m waiting on my kit to come in then I’m going to do it again! Thank you for making this video . YOUR THE MAN!!
Thanks for the kind words! It’s amazing what can be accomplished with a thorough disassembly and cleaning.
@Justletmedoit did you resolve your no reverse issue?
If so, what was the reason you couldn't go in reverse?
Did you have to replace your reverse servo?
I small flat head screwdriver should be used to remove the electrical wire. There is a small locking tab in 4 tabs to release it…
Dude, the way you did this video makes feel like I can do this DIY repair. The only thing I'm gonna do different is replacing the valve body rubber check balls with some made of a harder plastic called Torlon. Thanks.
Good luck man! The check ball upgrade is a common one. Just remember to take your time and double check everything! Cleanliness is the key to success here.
Great video. I think this is what my 2000 P71 CV is going to need. Thanks
BTW, I put a harbor freight hand pump through the transmission dipstick and suck out some of the transmission fluid before taking out the pan. No need for a waterfall.
That does make the job significantly easier/cleaner.
Yes it does. Comment back the next time you drop another tranny pan, let me know how it worked out.
I am shocked you did not wet the gaskets to prevent them from sticking I am going to try the torque converter pressure valve you installed.
Followed your video and fixed my '07 f 150 shudder. Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated!!
Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
This was a very good video, but I wish the camera was showing from above when you were putting the parts in so I could see them being placed.
Oh I love this video
One question
Did you change the torque converter fluid and how much fluid for transmission and a torque converter I have the same transmission 4.6 4/70
There was no drain plug on this converter. You’ll need 8+ qts of transmission fluid, fluid capacity will vary from one model to another. Also, don’t try to fill the trans all at once…it’ll just end up piking a bunch out of the vent. Add 4 qts, start the engine, cycle from reverse to drive a few times, check level, add, repeat. I want to say this one took 11/12qts…sorry, it’s been awhile.
You really should get a magnetic pick up tool they really come in handy to get your tools out of that red pool of doom and also work great at removing the hydraulic valve body balls from valve body! And nows a good time to update the Sonax servo and also update the valve body also add some Ford friction additive to fluid when filling to keep it lasting! Otherwise great video and good tech tips! And for anyone who's gonna do this job at home do yourself a favor go to home depo or harbor freight and buy a tarp to lay down on ground under truck so when you drop that pan full of fluid you'll thank me because that ATF will stain the garage or driveway permanently and while you buying the tarp and pick up tool just buy a entire box of nitrile or latex gloves and a bag or roll of lint free shop towels. Not Terry Cloth Rags! It's must be lint free trust me you'll need em a couple pair or your mom's kitchen towls won't get you thru this messy job and any dirt or lint can cause issues you want to make sure it's as clean as possible for any transmission internal work oh and buy more than one can of brake fluid the non chlorinated type because one can is never enough!! So what are you waiting on? Get off your Moms couch and go get it done Son it's not gonna fix itself!
A magnet is a good idea...but I don’t think it’ll do you any favors for the rubber check balls! I like to use 2 large drain pans on top of a big drip pan...works well if you’re patient(which I was NOT in the video). Lots of brake cleaner...lots and lots. Just buy a case and be done.
My truck shuddered. I flushed it out and added shudder fixx. No more problems. Oh,also got a bigger trans cooler.
A little routine maintenance goes a long way. The shudderfixx is just a band-aid though. If you don’t plan to keep the vehicle another 20-30k miles it’s an okay stop-gap measure.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Yeah,I’m trading it in for a 2021 Subaru Outback
Nice! Good luck and congrats on your upcoming purchase!
That trans is no virgin, her plug was popped in the past. haha If you know you know. Not only was this a great instructional video but that Philly accent is too. 😀 Nice job man!
Thanks! Nailed the accent too, lol. When I moved down south, I had to make a conscious effort to stop saying “you’s” and “wooder”(water). 🤣🤣🤣
I know it's been quite a while since anybody made a post or comment on this video. I just got done watching it all the way through and was wondering if this would help with my 2005 e250 5.4 van.(4r75w) I'm getting a shutter and slip due to poor pressure. I added some Lucas stop slip which made a big difference. However I'm still getting some shutter and slip pretty much every gear. I will also add that I did the flesh without pressure removing a couple of quarts adding a couple of quarts carefully by removing the return line at the radiator. I'm thinking about attempting this project as it seems like it would help with my pressure problem. Any advice would be very gratefully accepted. Thank you for the great video and forgiving everyone this great knowledge! 🙏
It sounds like your E250 would be a good candidate for these fixes. Even fluid flushes can leave a ton of debris in the valve body. I’ve actually “fixed” some other brand transmissions just by fully disassembling and thoroughly cleaning the valve body and all the valves. These transmissions are notorious for wear on the main pressure regulator valve that tends to cause a pressure loss across the board, some are hard anodized to prevent that, but it’s hot or miss as to what units they were installed in. Good luck!
Any suggestions on how to order the parts? Seems like they only sell to licensed shops. Guess I just got to figure it out trying to do some more hunting. Thank you for responding I really really do super appreciate it. The info you provided is beyond helpful!
I always order mine off of Amazon.
Great help my friend.....can we get the links to the parts please.....
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. My mother has a 2001 Grand Marquis with the 4.6L. I’m looking to address the shudder issue and want to take care of it - I’m an old shade tree and comfortable taking this on. I have two questions. First - I don’t know if her car has the 4r70 or the 4r75. How do I find out? Or doesn’t it even matter? Second, is the j mod necessary? Seems the work you did in this video took care of the shudder. Thanks in advance….
The ‘01 GMQ has the 4r70, but for this process it really wouldn’t make a difference. I would probably suggest against the J-mod, it’s not typically a mod for the elderly. Lol
I purchase tires based on the color of smoke they produce and what sound they make while smoking. I ain’t afraid…..🤣 Thanks for the info. So I located the Sonnax parts today but not quite sure about the separator plate…. Do you recommend the 092 or 192? Just looking for reliability. Thanks. I appreciate your response.
Definitely go with the 092 separator plate, it’s got all the correct size holes for the 2001. The 192 has a smaller 1-2 shift feed or exhaust hole and can cause a sluggish or weak shift on earlier models. Conversely the 092 plate on a later 4r70 can cause a firm 1-2 shift under light throttle when cold. You can use the 092 on the later models without issue, but using the 192 plate could cause problems on the earlier models. I say “early” and “late” without certainty to a year model change. I DO know an ‘01 CV/GMQ takes the 092 plate and an ‘04+ Truck *should* have the 192.
Thanks. I appreciate you sharing your experience.
Which separator plate is good for a 2000 ford expedition 4.6L V8 Triton XLT with a 4R70W
It's going to say I really enjoyed the video learned a lot, posted earlier comment but I failed to proofread it my truck has 250,000 miles my question was for the pressure valve regulator should I get the 76948- 12K extra pressure or should I stay with the stock just like you did ?thanks Jeff
Hey Jeff, first off, thanks for watching! I would always recommend the standard pressure regulator valve UNLESS you are trying to make the trans shift a little harder. It’s all a matter of preference.
Hey thanks for the video. I have a 2001 f-150 4.6 2wd with a 4r70w. I was getting a hard shift going between 3rd to 4th and a shutter from time to time, so I decided to follow this video as a guide. I’m running into some trouble now that I’ve got everything buttoned back up. At first the truck wouldn’t go in reverse and when I was in the neutral position it would drive. Park worked just fine. Now the truck won’t stay running, it starts for like maybe 1 second and dies like it’s under a load or something. Any thoughts or comments are very appreciated. TIA
Hey Kirk, I’m pretty certain of the issue. Can you follow the link in the description and message me on Facebook? It’ll be much easier and faster to get it resolved.
Hey thanks for the offer. I did end up figuring out my mistake. When I was reassembling I didn’t line up the Manual shaft with the Manual valve. I dropped the pan and the valve body and got it lined up properly and it’s good to go. Thanks again for the video.
Glad to hear you figured it out. I did the same thing 20yrs ago on a old C4. That was definitely a learning experience.
Hey Carport. I REALLY ENJOYED THE VIDEO. And I was wondering if you could help me out. My 2001 F150 lightly shudders when shifting down out of OD. But also, when throttle is lightly applied in 3rd or OD and engine is lightly lugging, I hear a sort of clicking, rattling noise that coincides with the RPMs. It still does it with OD off. On the other hand, if the clicking/knocking sound is happening in OD or 3rd, and I kick down and get the RPMs up, it disappears until the motor shifts back and lugs again. Ever ran across this? Thanks!
What you’re describing sounds exactly like a misfire. It sounds like it’s time for spark plugs and possibly even a coil or two. The 10th gen trucks(like yours) would sometimes suffer from water dripping off the cowl and onto the engine. During heavy enough rain, there could be enough to get down in the rearmost spark plug wells and cause a misfire. I’ve seen it many times.
I see where somebody already asked about my truck. But I didn’t understand, sorry I’m new to this truck but I love it dearly. It was my grandfathers, I’ve known it my whole life. 1995 5.0 4R70W 2WD. I get like a kick when mash the gas. I can’t really tell what it is and only happens sometimes. Like a jolt almost. Any idea what that might be? Thank you for responding to everyone’s comments. You’re a God send! 🙏
When you do notice the issue, is it at any certain speed?
@@carportshenanigans5918 Around 30-40 mph. Just happens out of nowhere. I just “learned” today I think that apparently I have had the wrong o2 sensor in this truck for a long time now. It seems I have a downstream o2 sensor whereas I should have a upstream o2 sensor in my 1 o2 sensor spot before the cat. Smh. I just matched what was on the truck already not knowing a whole lot about trucks but learning literally everyday. Can you tell me if you’ve ever heard of this before?
30-40mph sounds a little early to be a converter shutter issue. O2 sensors from upstream to downstream are not very different on that truck… the main difference will be wire pigtail length. Both will be 4-wire heated narrow-band sensors. That shouldn’t cause your issue. To start with, I would check things such as motor and trans mounts and u-joints. Start simple and work your way up the ladder of difficulty. It can be very easy to overlook something simple in the quest to fix a “complex” problem. Good luck!
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thanks. I guess what I feel is normal for truck in her condition. I’ve kind of been working on the truck nonstop. Plugs, wires, canister purge solenoid, starter solenoid, removed cats, truck runs great now almost perfect, for about 15-20 miles. Then when I hit a hill, or even just on flat land sometimes, she doesn’t want to go over 2k rpm’s and 40 mph.
Old forums have lead me to believe it’s possibly a fuel pump, or clogged injectors. Just wondering if you’re familiar with anything in that department and maybe have some insight?
Also to add, I replaced all 3 u joints about 2 months ago, solved this faint but annoying vibration.
I have a shutter and a howl noise it shutters when I drive and howls at idle can you help me figure out the problem I already bought a new torque converter flywheel and lockup valve seals pretty much everything I can think of other than what you mentioned in the video which I'm going to work on getting next great video very helpful any information you can give me on the howling noise and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated thanks
Hey Shan, sounds like you might have a front pump that’s on its last leg, that’s a bit more involved than what was covered in the video.
@@carportshenanigans5918 how do I fix the issue new transmission or is it a front yard fix I already ordered everything you have in the video even new solenoids new filter I got a new torque converter because it sounded like the noise was coming from there
Great video. Love the confidence, keep up the good work
I got a question for you. I’ve got a 2001 super crew F150 with a 54 motor and I’m sorry I can’t remember the transmission number right off hand but it look a lot like what’s in your video. The truck has 251,000 miles on it Transmission fluid got changed for the first time at 2:18 I think. Most the time the truck does all right every once in while it has a little issues shifting either downshifting when you go to hit the Excelerator or something in the same ballpark or whatever. What I want to know is if me doing what you just done to that one would it be help or hurt the transmission plus is there anything else that I probably need to do as well?
It definitely wouldn’t hurt, but I would also order some new check balls and make sure everything is clean, like surgical kinda clean.
I do that during all my repairs . Taking , cussing, dadada… 🤣 😂… 🤷♂️ wish you would have filmed it…. I get it though. I always make sure to do the finale and the install on my channel… we should get together in a collaboration. You start the job. I’ll wrap it up 🤣 jk.. great video. Really enjoyed it!! Don’t see much on here about does transmissions! Like and a sub… Thank you man. Have a great week….🎉
Thanks man, have a good one!
I got a 2005 f150 v8 4x4 when you give it gas and it kick into passing gear it schtter when it kick in can you give me any idea what causes it. Thanks a lot 🙏 God bless
Is it constant after the downshift OR does it only happen briefly during the shift?
@@carportshenanigans5918 it only do it for about two or three seconds than it okay. It does it like that every time it kick into passing gear. Thanks God bless 🙏
@@carportshenanigans5918 it only does it every time it kick into over drive. For about two or three seconds like you talked in your video like you run off on the edge of the road. On the rough part thanks God bless
Very likely it is torque converter shudder, from your description. The parts in this video should straighten it right out. Good luck!
Question, have a 2007 5.4/Flex, if one is towing (3500lb boat) would installing the K092 plate resulting in firmer shifts between 1-2 put some extra stress on other tranny components? Understanding I dont push the tranny hard when towing, I take it easy. Just tryin' to get a shift feel difference between the K092 and K0192 plates. Thank you. Great Video.
If anything, the slightly firmer shift will increase durability as the quicker shift results in less time the trans is slipping clutches overlapping 1st and 2nd gear.
Great Information! Haven't owned a Ford for awhile (2008 4.2) & has been driving me nuts! Studder at take off ,at highway speed & curves , sometimes inclines, but put your foot in it ..gets it!
My next project, hopefully works out for me! 🤞! Thanks again!!
That was great to look at. I need to no the parts that i need to do mind, a 2009 jeep wrangler, 42Rle. The shudder only happen at 40 mpr, after that it goes away. Will someone let me no what parts do i need.
I'm confused. I looked up the Sonnax 76948-04K installation instructions and they describe the following installation procedure (not a drop in for your application):
Prepare Sonnax valve and sleeve as directed below:
• 1995‐Earlier: For firmer, quicker TCC apply, install Sonnax sleeve as is. For OE TCC apply feel, drill through existing Sonnax sleeve orifice hole and out through the other side of the sleeve using a 1⁄16" drill bit.
• 1996-Later: To prevent harsh TCC apply or engine lugging, drill through existing Sonnax sleeve orifice hole as outlined above.
b. Install Sonnax valve and sleeve, securing with OE retaining clip, ensuring not to block sleeve orifice hole.
c. Use a Sharpie pen on the back of Sonnax sleeve and align the arrow head with the single orifice hole and place at 6 o’clock (Figure 1).
d. If the modification in step 2a will be done, draw a line on the back of the sleeve indicating the two orifice hole locations and place sleeve at 3 and 9 o’clock positions (Figure 2 rt and for 1996-Later there is a number of valve body modifications associated with installing this part: To prevent harsh TCC apply or engine lugging, drill through existing Sonnax sleeve orifice hole as outlined above.
b. Install Sonnax valve and sleeve, securing with OE retaining clip, ensuring not to block sleeve orifice hole.
c. Use a Sharpie pen on the back of Sonnax sleeve and align the arrow head with the single orifice hole and place at 6 o’clock (Figure 1).
d. If the modification in step 2a will be done, draw a line on the back of the sleeve indicating the two orifice hole locations and place sleeve at 3 and 9 o’clock positions
Ty! Experiencing judder in my 1994 mustang gt. Aode. This looks simple to do.
It’s pretty simple, just time consuming and potentially messy.
Looking to do this on my ‘04 grand Marquis, I believe it has a 4R70W, torque converter is now bucking on slight inclines, previously had shuddering/bucking but I changed the fluid and filter. Is the process the same? Am I better off getting a new Torque converter? 132k miles.
Hey Chuck, the steps taken here are exactly the same for your Grand Marquis. Don’t waste your hard-earned cash on a converter, this will fix your issue! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
At 22:00 ( the TCC Bypass Valve) is that the "J Mod"?
The J-mod involves removing specific springs and enlarging certain holes in the valvebody…it’s basically a free shift-kit.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you. have since looked deeper into the Jmod. It seems easy enough.
It is pretty easy. A lot of guys end up with with too harsh of a 2-3 shift when taking the springs out of the 2-3 shift servo…on my ‘01 Crown Vic it was barely noticeable. For a daily driver, I’d probably leave those springs in unless you’re willing to do a little trial and error.
@@carportshenanigans5918 I'm about to order the parts so I'll have them on hand when I get a day to do this job. Are you saying you would leave the springs in but still enlarge the specified holes?
This is my daily and I'm not looking to hot rod it. I just want reliability and longevity.
Thank in advance.
I just watched your video, it was great! My local shop drove my 2007 Ford Expedition Limited 5.4 liter for a few blocks and diagnosed it needing a new torque convertor ($1100 and possibly rebuild at $4k). I was so shocked. Anyway, it is shuddering when in overdrive shifting in lower gears. It doesn't do it all the time or at high speeds like on interstate. It feels like your driving over a rub board or a "rutted up" dirt road. I plan on finally selling (I have had for 10 years and its been a dream) and don't want to spend any more than I have to. Do you think this is something we should try (husband has a lift) or would you have other suggestions first? Plugs were all changed at 125k miles and it now has 209k miles. It looks so good still and the guy at the transmission shop said its runs great besides the shutter. Thanks so much for any help!!
Thanks for watching and commenting! The main time you’ll feel torque converter shudder is when the transmission shifts into OD under light to medium throttle between 45-55mph and sometimes when downshifting out of OD. If that is when it’s shuddering, then I would definitely suggest the replacing the parts outlined in this video. They are about the minimum required as they are targeted specifically at fixing torque converter shudder. The only caveat is that I believe your truck may use a different “Tuff Plate” than in this video. In the video, I use part #K092 and I believe your truck may need part #K0192. The later models had a different sized orifice for the 1-2 shift feed hole. It MAY cause a “harsh” 1-2 shift. Five minutes of reading on the Superior Trans website should clear up any questions regarding the separator plate. If it’s “shuddering” in any gear at lower speeds than I listed, then I would start looking more at spark plugs and/or ignition coils. Ford calls for 100k mile spark plug changes, but even the best replacement plugs you can get for these trucks typically don’t last more than 80k miles. Good luck, hope this helps, and if you have any other questions, feel free to drop them here!
Carport Shenanigans what is the end of this response? youtube doesnt let me expand it
I believe this is what I'm experiencing with my 2010 F150 4.6L 4x4 . We bought it from my Wife's Company, they owned it from new and gave me a file full of regular maintenance records. I have out about 10K on it but it had 175K when we bought it. What I experienced felt like when you get on the shoulder and hit the "wake up bumps"!!!! It was happening around town between 45-50 mph but it was happening today between 70-75 mph on the Cruise Control my guess when it got on the torque converter on slight upgrades. It wasn't kicking down. Also, going up some very slight grades the engine would rev up then down, just enough to move the needle on the tach but no shudder or vibration. I have no record of trans work on this truck, but, I believe it had fluid changes.
How do I trouble shoot this accurately???
I believe they used both the 4R75 and 6R80 in the 2010’s. The first step is identifying your transmission. A full-function scan tool would be ideal for diagnosing it. Short of that, I can tell you it typically happens under light throttle when the converter locks, much as you describe...it also sounds like your converter may be slipping from your description...IF your torque converter is slipping under normal cruise conditions, it WILL need to be replaced. Chances are, the truck was probably driven for 50k miles with the converter shuddering. It’s a LOT cheaper to replace the torque converter before a total failure ends up taking the whole trans with it.
There are a few different additives you can try to confirm that what you’re feeling is torque converter shudder. I believe one is called “Shudder-gard” or “Shudder-fix”. They’re cheap, and if there is a noticeable improvement, then you’ve confirmed the issue.
I have the exact same truck with the exact same issue. Any updates on what you did to fix it?
@@elimrqz Since using the Shudder Fix product its been all good. I HAVE had to add the product 2 more times but it lasts a year to 1.5 years each time. When it happens again I'll get a fluid change and add the product again and it will probably last longer.
Hey Carport, i love this video it was very helpful. i just bought a 04 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer in decent condition or atleast i thought test drive went great ... until i got about 25 mins into my ride home when i noticed the shudder that started at 45mph ended at 48 mph then started again at 55mph and stops at 60+ mph ... i was cussing up a storm thinking i just bought a hunk of metal. I am fairly certain after going threw this same issue with 00 ford expedition that its a Torque convertor shudder AKA overdrive shudder. I need to do this exact repair but my question is what are the part numbers for those gaskets? and should i also replace the shift selnoids while im in there
Jeremy, thanks for watching and commenting. The valve body gaskets may differ from one application to another, so I didn’t post those part numbers. What I recommend is a search including your year, make, model and see what’s available on Amazon, that’s what always do...I don’t always use the same vendor either, I usually just look for the best price/fastest shipping. As for the shift solenoids, if it hits all the gears, I’d leave them alone. Very often, aftermarket electrical parts don’t hold up like OE parts do, as many, if not most, of them are made offshore. If it’ll give you piece of mind, go for it...just keep the originals incase the replacements crap out. Good luck!
Does this apply to the AOD-E?
It sure does, but the Tuff Plate is not necessary for an AOD-E
I have an 05 crown vic with the shudder, pulled it apart and the OD band was smoked and the reverse drum was badly scored. From a dead stop, in drive, I would have to rev it up a bit then it would kick into gear. do you think that its a torque converter issue or valve body pressure regulator issue? all the electric solenoids tested ok.
It sounds like your problems all stemmed from a pressure issue, likely in the valve body. There could also be worn pin bores in the trans case that’s letting excess fluid to pass the servo pins, causing a loss of pressure in the circuit. At this point, you’ll most likely be better off with a replacement unit with converter.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Yes Im sure it was a pressure issue, I appreciate your expert opinion. The overdrive servo pin was really sloppy and I believe it was the pressure valve in the valve body that was hanging up. thanks for the reply.
This is an awesome video. I have the identical problem, but the transmission on my 2007 Ford Expedition is a 6R75. Would my parts be the same as yours?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Unfortunately, the 6R is a completely different animal, one that I don’t have experience with.
I bought a reman valve body. All of this should be included right?
It depends on who you bought the valve body from. If it’s just a direct OE replacement, it will not have the aftermarket TCC bypass valve installed in this video...that’s kinda the centerpiece of the entire job.
@@carportshenanigans5918 bought it from sonnax
Sounds good, do they list any part numbers for bypass valves used? Or anything specifying they have certain fixes made to the valve body?
Why not buy the Sonnax zip kit and do all the valve body updates? Plus you’ve got the OD servo exposed to be able to take it out and up date that servo pin. Those snap rings are know for breaking and the Sonnax servo pin cures that problem. It’s all out there in the open, so I normally do all the updates and get it over with.
There are unnecessary items in the Zip Kit, also the 2-3 accumulator stiffener plate requires drilling and tapping the valve body. The Tuff Plate is a drop-in seperator plate that doesn’t require drilling and tapping. Drilling and tapping a valve body is just another potential issue for the DIY’er. As for the OD servo snap-ring failing....I’ve NEVER seen that happen, not once in countless 4R70/75’s. Is the updated servo pin you’re referring to the one with o-rings? Unless you’re trans case is completely worn out, that pin won’t go in without cutting the o-rings. Also, I don’t want the average Joe pulling his OD servo out for no good reason then not being able to land the pin back in the OD band. That’s an easy, EASY mistake that leaves you with no OD or manual 2nd gear.
I’ve been down those roads before! Lol. Just because a company produces a part, doesn’t mean you need it. I’ve seen many 200k mi 4R’s that don’t need anything more than what I did in this video.
Carport Shenanigans I’ve personally seen a ton of 4r75 transmissions with that overdrive band dropped because of a broken snap ring. In time it does wear the guide hole and eventually hammers the hell out of that snap ring. I just changed the one in my 07 crown vic and pieces of the inner spring were missing. I used transmission assembly lube prior to installation, so if you carefully do your deal instead of just jamming it in, it’ll seat the o-ring properly and it slides right in. My car has 115k on it, so you aren’t going to tell me that my case is wore out at installation of that pin. The way you were searching for those 8 check balls in that valve body indicated to me that maybe you haven’t had that many AODE/4R70/4R75 valve body’s out. I can pull them 8 check balls out and place the new ones back in blind folded. The 8 updated check balls also come with the zip kit. That number 7 check ball is a problem child.
Well, I can only go based on the units I’ve had hands on. Make a video showing the scenario you’re talking about, I’d love to see it. Also from my experience, all the lube in the world wouldn’t make that servo pin slide in. Also, I’m pretty well experienced with installing O-rings. Lol. I never install an o-ring dry. I thought that was common knowledge.
Carport Shenanigans I’ve never had an issue getting an updated servo pin in, so I’m not sure why you’ve had trouble. My overdrive band itself busted, so during the rebuild, the updated servo pin was removed and guess what was still in place? The orings on my Sonnax servo pin. Lol
Probably because the pin bore was worn...that IS the exact purpose of those “updated” pins. I know you refuse to believe that your pin bore was worn, but these pins fit almost as tightly as a valve in a valve guide...at least in a 4R70! Maybe you had a defective case, I don’t know what to tell you.
That little screen you said you had to fight with putting it back in, ford says that after brake in, you can just leave it out. It's just a little saftey measure they put in on first assembly.
That’s good to know! Thanks for dropping some knowledge on us, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. 👍
Hello. I recently bought a 2003 Ford F150 4x4 with the 5.4L Triton. I noticed that after roughly 2k miles that a shudder is starting to happen in the transmission. My question is how do you know if you should be doing these replacements as shown or replace the torque convertor itself where the shudder comes from? Just replacing these parts does nothing if the convertor is bad correct? I am no expert, I am just trying to understand how to approach this issue. I think I am adventurous enough to try this, just not sure if I should.
Great question Joe! There is one sure fire way to check, and that is using a full function scanner like a snap-on where you can simultaneously look at vehicle speed and RPM in graph format. At a steady speed, with lockup engaged (50-55mph is usually sufficient) you would look for any flares in rpm, indicating the clutch inside the converter is slipping...there is little chance of coming back from that.
Another, more common way to check for slippage is to watch your tach and do pretty much the same thing as I mentioned above with the scanner. Watch for fluctuations in the RPM, indicating slippage. You will see slight RPM fluctuations during a shudder because that is actually the clutch slipping briefly with a big change in load.
These modifications increase pressure to the lockup clutch, which greatly improves holding power. Also, if your fluid is very dirty, try changing it first. If your fluid is dirty AND has a strong, distinct “burnt” smell, that is a good indicator that a rebuild may be necessary. When the converter fails completely, it typically takes the rest of the trans with it... if even just because it’s pumped all it’s guts into the transmission housing and valve body.
@@carportshenanigans5918 I would like to thank you for this video. I did exactly what you said and it totally gave the transmission for my 2003 F-150 a brand new life. It is working solid now, and I am very grateful for your guidance in making that a reality for me so cheaply.
Thanks for the kind words Joe! I’m glad you were able to get it taken care of. Automotive repairs can be so costly, especially if incorrectly diagnosed. This is why I like to share my knowledge and experience, to help people get done what they need to without bleeding their wallets dry! Lol
Thank you for this!! Does this apply to a 6R80 auto transmission?
Unfortunately, it does NOT apply to the 6R80 as it’s a totally different animal.
I get a loud thump and jerk highway speeds from 4th to 3rd when I step on it to pass cars f150 02 4.6
That sounds very much like the early stages of torque converter shudder. The truck in the video did that about 4yrs and 20k miles prior to me making this video. At the time, it was ONLY during the 4-3 downshift at very specific speeds and throttle inputs. Basically, a condition they never experienced during their normal driving, so I left it alone at that point.
What about Lubegard instant shudder fix?
Good question! Lubegard is a great product. I used it in my daily driven ‘01 Crown Victoria. First time lasted around 30k miles, and the second time(with trans flush) lasted about 15k miles. It’s an effective band-aid to buy you some time, but it’s not a permanent fix like this is. Lubegard is basically just an additive package that is heavy with friction modifier... that allows the torque converter clutch to slip more smoothly during engagement, it’ll actually slip a little more. Following the procedures in this video, however, fixes the mechanical issue of low apply(and holding) pressure to the torque converter clutch.
@@carportshenanigans5918 thanks
Great info. One thing why I go for an f150 5.0 it’s bcs guys like you who are ok sharing knowledge! Thanks Sr!
Now my 2011 5.0 6r80 shudders when accelerating at 2,000-3,500 rpms just before changing gears from 1-2 and 2-3 gear... do you think is the torque converter? Tomorrow I’ll add shudder fix if it improves then I will change the torque converter...
I don’t think that’s converter related. In all honesty though I have no experience with the 6R80.
Working on mine today... the plate was dimpled and had visible cracks where the 2-3 shift servo hits. This is on a 2008 crown vic.
Yours wouldn’t happen to have been an ex-police car, would it?
@@carportshenanigans5918 yes
I had a feeling, they seem to beat the plates pretty good as those cars often live in the WOT 2-3 shift zone.
@@carportshenanigans5918 I wanted to come back and say thanks for the video. I was surprised at how much better it drives now.. and no more torque converter shudder. I was having some light shudder at like 38-45 mph (when the rpm's are low in OD) and it's cleared up. Thanks!
That’s awesome! Glad to hear you got it handled! Thanks for sharing your results too!
Will this work for. 95 f150 5.0. Trans pan has 14 bolts
Yes it will, Russell. However you do NOT need the “Tuff plate” separator plate for the valve body as the earlier transmissions had a plate bolted to the valve body that prevented the 2-3 shift piston cover from dimpling or damaging the OE separator plate. Also, be sure to order valvebody gaskets specific to your truck(year, make, model).
Wanted to ask a question I done everything you done here to a 2006 expedition because it had a shudder. So I got everything put back. I found three quarters of the overdrive pin e clip on top of the valve body so got a new one. I still have a shudder but not as bad any ideas what I can do.
Do you have a check engine light on or occasionally flashing?
@@carportshenanigans5918 yes it's my catalytic converter
Hey buddy great video, ummm, we have a Mazda BT 50 the newer model. As soon as we put the gear in reverse R or drive D, the vehicle just moves unlike normally you would have to give it gas to move. I've got a question, does this mean the Torque converter clutch or TCC solenoid valve is stuck in open or close or however it works, causing the torque converter clutch to be engaged as soon as the engine starts? And when we hold by applying the brakes the engine shakes alot and smokes like it is going to stall. Really appreciate your help here.
thanks Rudolph
@carport shenanigans got a link to the parts you used? having shudder issues with my 05 f150. issues only show when i have the overdrive on. shes got 160k on it now.
Starting @0:35, I go over all the parts with part numbers. I typically buy everything through Amazon so I can get the vendor with the best price/availability.
@@carportshenanigans5918 thanks. I ordered them yesterday from amazon
Good deal, sorry it took so long for me to get back to you!
@@carportshenanigans5918 its all good man
@@carportshenanigans5918 so I put the parts in today and it fixed the shudder but now I have a slip between 3-4 on the shift it will jump up about 500 rpm before 4th engages
Solid video, though it's a shame about the lost footage at home. You really demystified some of the components of automatic transmissions, which can be kind of scary to think about working with on your own.
Thanks! It’s not as bad as a lot of people tend to think. There are a lot of resources online to help out these days also.
@@carportshenanigans5918 If I wanted to Jmod my Grand Marquis, it would be more or less the same process right?
Yeah, I would do everything from the video plus the actual J-Mod. The main pressure regulator boost valve you saw me replace in the video is a stock replacement from Sonnax, BUT they also offer a higher capacity boost valve so it ramps up pressure more aggressively...so you can have nice part throttle shifts and stronger WOT shifts...I have one on my “daily” and absolutely love it.
I am probably just missing this but where are the parts list to purchase? I need to do this ASAP. Just completed a CAm Phaser job and now the trans shudders in OD.
Parts list begins @0:32
Hi Carport Shenanigans, Will this work for a 4R70W from a 1999 E150. I know it a bit different than the 2004 transmission you are working on. For now I put Lucas oil and Instant Shudder fixx and it fixed about 90 % of issues. just want your opinion if your fix would work on a older transmission model. Thanks in advance and great video.
Yes Pat, it absolutely will work. 👍
94 Lincoln Town car with the AODE ., bout 50,000 miles ,& only shudders on up shift to overdrive 4 th gear ...It sounds just like you are running over some rumble strips on the road! I have a feeling my fluid & filter change ( about 13 .5 liters ) after draining the torque converter etc, will temporarily get rid of it . I used full synthetic cause it's just better all around like synthetic oil is . Stands up to heat , stays thin when cold (stays in grade) & has superior lubrication...I'm hoping to do your up grade later on "IF "YOU THINK IT WILL WORK ...Enjoyed your video.
It will definitely work, BUT, with that low-mileage I would just change the fluid using Mercon V. If it still does it or comes back shortly, try adding a bottle of shutter-guard to it. I used that stuff on my personal car early on and it lasted 30k miles the first time and about 10k the second time. That’s how I knew that it was time for me to stop trying to band-aid the problem and fix it right.
Where do I get the replacement bypass valve at? As well as the other valves for the valve body?
All the valves are from Sonnax, but they don’t sell direct to the public, so I order them through Amazon.
Do you have a required parts list by p/n that is needed?
I didn’t see a list in the comments.
I have 2001 mercury grand marquis, with trans shutter. It only has 45k on the car, do you think maybe doing the same thing that you did on the f-150 would work on my grand marquis?
With such low mileage, I’d just go with a fluid and filter change and see what that does for it…I’d be surprised if it needed any more attention than that.
Hi...I see from comments you're located in SC. I have a 2000 F150 4X4 5.4 with just 111K miles with this occasional shutter issue on 4-3 shift. Could I bring this to you to repair? I'm near Charlotte.
hey hope you still respond, I am having problems with my 2000 mustang with the same trans, it revs and drive while only crawling, but drives fine in reverse. i’m not getting any codes for it and it’s been like this since i bought it a bit ago, I already replaced the torque converter and filter recently and had no luck, wondering if this could fix it.
It is a possibility that your issue could be in the valvebody, it is also possible that your trans is just smoked. The only thing in this video that might help at all is the main pressure regulator valve. From the sounds of it, there is a serious pressure loss issue, internally, or the clutches are cooked. This would require some diagnostic and unfortunately, this isn’t really something I could advise you on via the internet. If it were me, I would make sure the fluid isn’t burnt before anything. If the fluid looked okay, I’d take the valvebody down to disassemble, clean and inspect; replacing any worn valves I found. In some extreme cases, oversized valves are needed and their corresponding bores need to be resized. At that point, it may be better to just buy a reman valvebody IF that is where the problem lies.
@ yes that’s what I’m doing first, I’m replacing everything in the valve body first but if not I will drop the transmission again and take a deeper look inside
Hopefully it works out with minimal cost and downtime!
In the super tuff kit that little piece you were talking about, does that go on the end of the 2-3 shift piston? Also which end goes in and which end goes out?
If you’re talking about the little cup shaped metal piece that came with the Super Tuff plate, it does go on the tip of the 2-3 piston cover. It is best installed with a dab of petroleum jelly, the cupped end goes towards the 2-3 piston cover.
Pro Tip: keep your petroleum jelly in the refrigerator so it doesn’t instantly liquify and become useless!
@@carportshenanigans5918 Cool! All of my parts are ordered hopefully this will fix my shudder, looks really simple with your really well put together tutorial.
@@tylerkline962 you got links to parts? I'm looking to do this.
@@C-commerce I got everything through eBay. He goes over all of the parts in the video and their part numbers.
@@tylerkline962 Thank you sir! Did you do the repair and what did you think of the results? I am starting to have this bog down effect and thought this would be a good fix.
Great video, appreciated it !! 💯🤙🏾 My 2015 tacoma 4.L vibrates under light acceleration, and it always does that at 1200 to 1500 rpm .. Always. As I press the pedal down more I feel the vibration stop and rpms spikes up to about 2000 rpms . This happens mostly on small hills when I just need a little throttle to make it up the hill. Do you have any suggestions what this could be or any advice ? Thank you.
Oh just to add nothing shudders or vibrates when I go full throttle on the road , so I don't think it could be a suspension problem or any maybe . Its always under light acceleration at 1200 rpms to 1500 , going up small hills at times.
Sounds to me like you may have a spark plug or ignition coil starting to give up. This is where it’s real nice to have a full function scanner to view data. Is the check engine light on?
No check engine light . This a second hand car btw, just got it 6 months ago with 60k miles . Thanks for your time just want to get rid of this shuddering n vibrating. So you don't think it's anything to do with the drive train ? I hope it's just a spark plug or fuel economy problem.
I’d say that it’s definitely time to at least take a look at the plugs. Usually by the time they’re recommended, by the maintenance schedule, they’re well worn. I always go early on my spark plug replacement, especially on coil-on-plug ignitions systems. Worn out plugs require a LOT more voltage for the spark to jump the gap. Changing them early helps prolong ignition coil life.
Thank you ! Getting 6 new plugs n cleaning out my MAF sensor as well . Hope it does the job 🙏🏾 No idling problem it's just this vibration at 1200 to 1500 rpms . Thanks for the help brother , great video once again ! 👍🏾
Good video. Just subscribed. I haven’t touched my 03 4r70w valve body yet but now at least I know what to do with that. Do you have any thoughts on friction type for high performance applications? I bought the sonnax direct and forward drums so I can put an extra friction in each drum. Hopefully be around 600hp
I’ve heard of guys putting 600hp through stock 4R70’s save for the J-mod. That being said, if you’re going to build one, I would look into Alto Clutches...specifically the Alto reds. Good clutches and bands(especially extra clutches) will keep you from having to go bananas with using excessively high fluid pressures to prevent slippage. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you are opening up the pan and changing your trans fluid and filter this is an optional repair , most shudder issues will be resolved with just filter and fresh fluid.
Only if you’re going to change your fluid and filter every 10-15k miles, even then it’s questionable once you get over 100-150k miles. Also, changing your fluid doesn’t fix worn pressure regulator valves or cracked separator plates.
Thank You for taking the time to make this video. Question, Will this work for a 2013 250E ( van ) 4R75E?
It certainly will. Thank YOU for watching and commenting!
My 2003 Expedition with a 5.4 has recently started giving me a quick 'skid' sound when going from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration.
Should replacing the valves, servos, and adding a SuperTuff plate address this?
Is it shifting hard, or just making a noise?
@@carportshenanigans5918 Has been shifting fine after the little 'chirp' at the shift point.
But on Sunday, driving down the highway at speed when suddenly it cut out and all the gauge needles went nuts. Full tilt both directions.
Pulled over, turned the key off,. Restarted and drove fine as long as I didn't get back up to highway speeds.
Thank you for your reply by the way.
I would take it to a shop to have them scan the PCM and possibly do some diagnostic work. If there is a potential electrical issue, it needs to be addressed before attempting and mechanical repairs to the trans.
@@carportshenanigans5918
Will do althoughI have Torque and FORScan.
(WARN) [19:59:13.953] DTCs in PCM: B2103, B1600, B1602, P0232, P1450
Good Video. I'm curious what exactly is meant by the word "shutter" mine seems to rapidly go in and out of OD when driving at 65 mph, usually when I'm goin up a hill or so. This seems like it might be "shutter" it feels like a very quick loss of power as if the transmission is slipping out of OD and then back into gear. Another video points to the OD servo, I hate to guess. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video and help.
If it is happening very rapidly, that is most likely torque converter shudder. It could also possibly be a misfire, so it’s important to make sure you’re vehicle isn’t in need of a tuneup. It is most likely not the OD servo. What the shudder is, is when the torque converter tries to lock or unlock(like on a downshift) and the friction material in the converter actually chatters...this often happens because of a break-down of the transmission fluid and/or a slight loss of pressure which can cause slow engagement/disengagement of the lockup clutch, allowing the two friction surfaces to chatter against one another.
It’s a long-winded, but hopefully it helps!
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you very much. I do appreciate you.
Did you need to drill out your shift plate?
No, I didn’t make any changes to the separator plate. I was looking to maintain stock shift feel...if it was mine, I would have drilled some out to firm it up slightly.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Just got my plate today, will have to compare it to my old one, thanks for the comeback, I also got all the valves you did plus the overdrive valve from sonnax
@@carportshenanigans5918 I also bought the sonnax overdrive servo regulator
I was wondering I got $250,000 on my truck should I get the 76948-09 or the 76948-20k with elevated pressure
David, I have a 2006 F150 Lariat 4x4 with 5.4 Triton engine. I have been struggling with getting a vibration out of it when accerlerating up through 57 through 63 mph. The truck runs great otherwise. I have road balanced the tires but the problem persists. Any ideas what it could be?
Sounds a lot like torque converter shudder! When were the spark plugs last changed?
is this the same fix for the 6 speed trans in a 2015 f 150 ?
Thx
No, that’s a totally different animal.
Excellent video thanks!!!
Anyway you can list all the parts that is needed ? I didn't see it listed
At the beginning of the video I go over all the parts used.
I have a 2012 f150 4X4. The shudder spoken of is in the fifth and sixth gear.. I noticed the trans stays in sixth till almost very last moment at stop can you give me information to fix
Sadly, the 6R80 transmission is a totally different animal and the fix here is not the same. I have yet to mess with the 6R80 trans.
I have a JMOD; how does that affect this procedure
It really only affects it if you have the later model without the plate stiffener under the 2-3 accumulator. Then I would, as usual, recommend the Tuff Plate and you’ll need to match up and measure the holes from your existing separator plate to transfer to the Tuff Plate. Simple stuff, just a little tedious.
@@carportshenanigans5918lol here I am watching your video,
Didn’t even realIze I had already watched and commented! Unfortunately the mentioned car has since been totaled (RIP) 😢 but I’m having some odd shuttering on this new to me 2003 grand marq with about 96k miles. Would love to do the jmod but not sure if I trust it doing what it’s currently doing. Has an odd shudder that comes and goes, doesn’t seem to matter if OD is off or on and seems to happen in all gears. The whole feeling like driving over a wash board or rumble strip thing. Unsure of fluid maintainance or if it’s ever been changed. I already have 12 quarts Mercon v, filter and Dorman pan with drain plug on hand. Any input or ideas? I’m a bit scared to mess with her 😅
@@carportshenanigans5918 Also what is the diff between the jmod and the tuffplate you have there? Thanks!
Nice to know this vid was worth another look to ya! Lol. On your 03 GMQ, I would start with a good fluid/filter change, I think you’re on the right path with that. I would also try some shudder-fix. IF and only IF that cures the shuddering then you could follow the procedures outlined in this video when it starts shuddering again. You should get AT LEAST 15k miles before it acts up again, but it’s typically closer to 25-40k on average.
The Tuff Plate is an extra thick separator plate that solves a potential issue where the 2-3 shift servo smacks the plate, eventually hammering the plate until it cracks and starts cross-leaks. This is typical on higher mileage units and only an issue on later models…I want to say ‘99+ but I don’t remember the exact year they did away with the stiffener plate bolted to the valve body that served the same purpose.
The Jmod is just drilling out some holes in the Tuff Plate and removing some springs. For the best of both worlds in these cars, I recommend leaving the springs in and just drilling out the necessary feed and exhaust holes to the proper sizes. Quicker shifts without any harshness. I’ve heard a lot of mustang guys report the 2-3 shift being so harsh they had to take it apart to put the springs back in. I’ve not yet had that issue with the Panther cars, it may be a different calibration causing it, I can’t say for sure.
@@carportshenanigans5918 thank you for all the information. As far as fluid swap, what’s your take? Are you more of a pan drop guy, pulling the cooler line guy, or forced machine flush kinda guy?
Additionally, how can I determine if it’s shudder or misfire? I’m still not sure and I’m praying it’s an ignition issue. Lowest gear I have seen it happen in is 2nd gear at roughly 30 mph when starting to go up a hill. I could be crazy, but it also seems to happen significantly more if I have the air conditioning on. I don’t have any engine codes, I don’t have any trans codes. I have tried to use mode 6 data using forscan but it doesn’t give me a ton of information. I’ve got a few 0.xx% on a few cylinders in mode 6 for various cylinders, but nothing that really stands out. I’d really love to figure out whatever the heck is going on so I can have more confidence in the car.
Just did the water pump.. that was a ton of fun 😬
Does this apply to the 4R75E?
Absolutely it does!
Anyone know how to find mechanics that can do these jobs? I have a mini cooper that needs a timing guide..No one will do it, They want to replace the Entire engine..I also need this dine on a Mitsubishi Spyder..I used Instant Shutter fix and it worked instantly..But I would like to fix the problem, I guess Ill have to do it myself.
Karen, Mini Coopers are a total pain to work on...Look up a vid by "EricTheCarGuy" on how much angst he went through working on his....Some ding dong thawt it was cool to build a motor all wrapped up like a Burrito...And that's purty much how you have to take it apart...Like unwrapping a Burrito 🌯
@@ToyManFlyer1100 You are right about that...Now because the mini sat for a year it got water in it and is molding. I am just going to sell for parts..uuhhggg..
I know this video is a little old but I'm wondering if you can point me in the right direction. I have a 2004 F-150 HD with I believe a 4R70W transmission. My issue is a shudder when I take off from a dead stop. This shudder doesn't appear until the transmission is completely warm, say 50 highway miles. Otherwise the transmission feels fine. I have driven it several thousand miles since I got it. The problem seems to be getting a little worse but not horrible. I can eliminate the shudder if I take off very easily. The truck has about 160,000 miles on it and the trans fluid looks really good, almost too good for as many miles as it has. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Could the wrong trans fluid cause this problem?
To be honest, it sounds more like spark plugs. At 160k miles, it’s likely about time for its second set. I would also start looking at the possibility of one or more ignition coils as well. I say this because torque converter shudder can only happen in 4th(sometimes 3rd on rare occasions). The converter does not lockup in any other gear but 3rd and 4th.
Regardless, it sounds like time for a proper scan tool to view real-time data in order to get an accurate diagnosis.
Do you think it’s the same issue I’m having with my transmission? It works fine on 1rst and second but it won’t shift to 3rd
Unfortunately, not shifting to 3rd will be a different issue altogether.
Would you recommend this with a Programmer? I’m thinking about getting one for better towing and hold the shift longer
I definitely would, with a tuner you get a little more flexibility with adjusting shift firmness. @Driving Intelligence just did this along with a shift kit from Superior and he has a tuner on his 10th gen F150, he may have a little more insight on that.
Can you make a video on how to J-Mod a 4R70w? I have a 1996 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L with the 4R70w transmission. I want to do the JMOD
I absolutely will do a J-mod video when the next one comes along, I’m just not sure when that is. Until then, I hope this will get you by: The official J-mod how-to video by Rizzo th-cam.com/video/gbIAKfhrdV0/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video! Would have liked to see the lost video, especially as it relates to the placement of that one filter. Perhaps you can add a link showing where you found that on the internet. I am experiencing a driveline shudder when my TC locks up in 4th gear (4R70W) with no other drivability issues. It sounds like your video recommendations could remedy this? Hope you can give me some advice! 206K on this 2002 F150 4x4 with 5.4 Triton
@Driving Intelligence, this would definitely be the way to go to remedy your torque converter shudder. One thing I forgot to mention, unhook the battery while you do this. Not for safety, but to allow the computer to relearn shift parameters. Many people say it’s not necessary, but I like to do it anyway. Also, if your converter has been shuddering for years, this may not completely remedy it...but this is a much cheaper and easier job than replacing a converter, even if you need to replace the converter, these mods will work perfectly with it and help extend its life.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you... the shudder just started. Any other parts you recommend in the valve body while I have it out?
Depends on what you want, Sonnax also makes a main pressure boost valve that increases pressure at WOT to make full throttle shifts a little firmer. Part #4R70W-LB1. It won’t make it harsh like a “shift kit, just provide a little more pressure under heavy throttle. It works great for towing and I use them every time I J-mod one of these transmissions.
@@carportshenanigans5918 last question I hope! I have been doing alot of research. Are you familiar with the J-Mod from the Crown Vic Community? Supposed to take care of alot of the problems areas. And can this be done with the mods you recommend? Thanks!
The J-mod works perfectly with the parts outlined in the video. Keep in mind, the J-mod is essentially like putting in a shift kit. It’s easy to make it hit too hard during gear changes, if you get carried away. There is tons of information on the J-mod(archived) in the GMN and CVN forums as well as in the tccoa forums. You may also be able to find some useful info on clickclickracing forums.
I have a 2006 expedition with the 4R75E, the shuddering I am getting is when it is in high gear 45-50 mph and add throttle slowly it shudders. With these parts you installed in the video correct this? Thanks in advance
Absolutely, as long as it’s confirmed to be torque converter shudder and not a misfire. A torque converter shudder will (typically) feel like a few bumps when the converter is locking and can feel a bit more harsh when unlocking- like when adding a little throttle just like you described. A misfire you’ll be able to get to last a lot longer at that speed & load, especially if on a slight incline- although it will typically be very inconsistent.
Hope this helps!
Thank you for your video! very well done.
Thanks Nestor, and thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Agreed!
Good video thanks for sharing. I sent a PM to GM forum
Thanks! Going to check it out now.
My 01 crown vic shudders under light acceleration like when coming out of a curve ( sometimes)... Its a 4.6 with 4r70w...could u plz tell me what would get rid of it possibly...?????
Without a solid, consistent fault pattern, it can be very difficult to diagnose. My first step would be to scan the computer for any fault codes, check the level and condition of the trans fluid, as well as checking the condition of all spark plugs and coil boots.
would this correct a 2001 E250 with the 4r70w that has the thinking about going into reverse before going into reverse?
Most of that issue is due to wear of the main pressure regulator valve, so yes the items in the video will fix that issue. Being a van application, I’d recommend a Sonnax line pressure booster kit if you’re in there anyway, it goes in the same bore as the main pressure regulator and increases line pressure proportionally to demand. It’s a good HD improvement.
Sonnax main pressure regulator
Part # 76948-09
Sonnax line pressure booster
Part # 4R70W-LB1
@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you VERY much for your reply! I actually after looking at rebuilding my valve body did some looking around and found the last Sonnax 095HD valve body for my van on Rock Auto for $283 so I grabbed it. Everywhere else it was about $600ish. Those upgrades are in the new valve body I ordered. It comes with the 1-2 accumulator HD springs and I am planning on replacing the 1-2 piston and the same with the 2-3. Are the beefier CT Powertrain purple spring for the 2-3 a good upgrade? Also I have found both pistons in the Sonnax variety. Is there ANYTHING else that a guy should change while the valve body is out. I am NOT a tranny guy nor able to tear into anything too complicated in that respect. This is a 2001 E250 I am converting to a camper van and tow vehicle. I love bulletproofing things as I am able. Once again TYVM for responding as I saw your video was older.
That valve body is a good buy and can save a bunch of hassle. The upgraded 2/3 shift spring should be perfect for what you’re doing. The only other things I might recommend for your application is an auxiliary trans cooler and a trans temp gauge. These transmissions shift best between 160-200 degrees. Below that the fluid is still a little viscous and if you run over 210* for any length of time you start to cook the fluid and will need to perform more frequent fluid changes. Good luck on your camper/hauler build!
@@carportshenanigans5918 That's funny you suggested those things. This van is like all original mechanically. The yellow plug was still in the pan when I changed the filter and fluid. It has a tranny cooler factory but I replaced all the lines and added a filter adapter and plumbed it through a PH8 (big chevy filter) so I shouldn't have to drop the pan in the future. I also added a transmission temperature pressure sender which is threaded into the Line test port but just playing with the gauge it didn't come up much with reving in the shop. I also added a temperature probe into a bung I welded into the trans pan. So after everything is done I will get it out and drive it. It is a huge pain to get in and out of the garage so after I get the valve body and such in and calvan the motor along with tune up and all hoses I will see how it runs and drives. Outa be WAY better than the old original parts and such. Thank you very much for your help!
Lol, nice! Sounds like a good little setup you’ve got. Between the valve body and the shift spring, it should feel better than new. Glad I could help!
My 2007 F150 shudders at very low speed and at around 45mph when it goes into overdrive, feels like driving over rumble strips. Will this fix help with that? I was told by a transmission shop that I needed a new torque converter.
That’s the fix every trans shop will sell you…it makes them more money. This fix won’t “help” with it, it will resolve the issue. Just make 100% sure it’s not a misfire, the torque converter won’t do anything to cause a shutter at low speed as it only locks in 3rd/4th gears under the proper conditions. I’ve seen trans shops and general repair shops with “master techs” get fooled by a stubborn misfire.
Thank you!
i have a 03 crown vic and when i step on the gas it shudders into any gear. will this fix your issue or would i need to replace the TC?
Sorry for the late response! If it feels like it’s shuddering into ANY gear, than you have other problems. Torque converter shudder can only happen when shifting into or out of OD or 3rd gear(3rd gear converter shudder is EXTREMELY rare).
@@carportshenanigans5918 do you have an idea on what it is?
@@hambone950 my first step would be to confirm there are no misfires. Fords of this era can experience misfires without setting a check engine light. I forget the exact number, but the PCM has to record 15k or 16k misfires on a specific cylinder before setting a code for a misfire on that particular cylinder.
@@carportshenanigans5918 i replaced the coils, coil pack and plugs. It shuttered really bad after replacing them it wasnt so pronounced. this will be my second tranny flush. also there was a lot of metal, grey, in the pan and all over the valve body.
Would you have any advice for my problem .... 89 AOD I have significant vibrations in 3rd gear around 1800rpms, and it goes away when it upshifts to OD? drive-shaft was balanced week ago. Thanks
Something like that is really hard to diagnose over the Internet. Will it do it in any other gear or in park/neutral at the same RPM?
@@carportshenanigans5918 No vibrations in N, P or OD at any Rpms but in 3rd starts around 1.8-2k it seems its getting better when over 40mph. So far I replaced all ujoints yoke (+balancing shaft), AOD tailshaft bushing and seal, new torque converter and flex plate. I also upgraded 2-3 accumulator(aluminum),super servo and B&M shift kit. Thank you for your help...I'm running out of ideas.....one last detail it is retrofitted AOD behind 289.
Hmmm...seems like you’ve already hit most of the likely causes. It wouldn’t affect it in only one year, but I have to ask anyway. Is the flex plate the correct 28 oz balance for the 289? All 1981 and later 5.0’s were 50 oz. Also, is there any noise associated with the vibration? Thumping/clunking?
@@carportshenanigans5918 Yes it is 28oz.....sometimes i can hear whistling sound coming from i think transmission since i never hear that with C4, i can barely hear it, but no Thumping/clunking.....im getting some parts for the valve body today maybe ill see something suspicious when i take it apart.
@@carportshenanigans5918 Is the play in outershaft normal? th-cam.com/video/WRB2UUmYNbQ/w-d-xo.html
Are the parts for a 4R100 different!
No sir, 4R100 is a whole different animal.
I have a 2000 f150 5.4 4x4 with the 4r70 tranny my issue is that when I'm at 35-45mph it high idles,the rpm goes up at 2500-3000rmp like if I was pushing the gas pedal, does this every other day,but I I push the overdrive off it works great with no issues, would this help?
I doubt it, it sounds like you may have some other issues that need to be addressed first.
Where are you located?
And how was that truck running
Afterwards? Perfect
Thanks for the video....
Man, what city do you live in so i can move there?
Hard to go wrong in the great state of South Carolina! Lol
So I have torque converter shudder in my 06 Expedition, I did this repair and it made it much better but it is still doing it but not as bad, I guess its not really a permeant fix there must be something else wrong.
I guess it’s not a fix at all if it’s still doing it, huh? Yes, you must have other issues at hand.