You’re doing a great job. I’m learning a lot. Keep up the great content. One thing I love about old airheads. They remind me of racing car engines of the 40’s and 50’s.
5:45 The reason you want a fuse on positive wires from the battery is to make sure that if the cable shorts to ground the bike will not burn down. That's why modern cars have fuses close to or on top of the battery.
These videos are great! They have been a major resource in my r75/6 wire mod. Where did that light bucket come from? I ended up with a chrono classic speedo. The old dimples in the bucket are very unsightly.
Why did you connect blue cable from alternator to the Aux 1 output? And how did you set up this aux1 output in the app? Should it be giving voltage together with ignition? Why didn't you just take the voltage from red ignition output?
I suppose you could run it from the ignition output. By using Aux 1 I could keep the circuits separate, which makes for fewer wiring connections and a simpler harness. It's been a few years, but I believe I set Aux 1 for 'active after engine start', since the alternator wouldn't be spinning until after engine start anyway. If you had a lot more accessories to power, then connecting to the ignition output make sense.
What type of resister should I use for that blue wire you mentioned 5 min into the video. I deleted the instrument cluster and my bike seems to not be keep able to hold a charger. Also, great vid man glad your around. Great resource!
Hi brother, new subscriber and building my first custom airhead 1975 R75/6. I'm deleting the factory gage cluster and I am wondering what resister I should use for the blue wire you mentioned?
I'd suggest a 50ohm/5w resistor - but I'd also like to mention that Enduralast now makes a generator light bypass kit. It's $20, definitely more than a resistor, but it's really simple to install and pretty headache free.
Just came across this series and I am loving it. I am at the wiring phase of my build and using the m-unit. One question I do have is are you afraid of road debris or foreign objects off the tire hitting your beautiful antigravity battery?
What type / level of resister should I use for that blue wire you mentioned 5 min into the vid ? I deleted the instrument cluster and my bike seems to be having trouble hold a charger. Thanks for the great content!
Hi there, thanks for the great vid. I’m completely rebuilding a /5 and almost at the point I’m gonna start rewiring. I got the m unit but I’d like to keep the the oem starter, ignition, and charging- like you did here. I’m gonna keep the original battery too. Can you help with some more insights? Can you share your wiring diagram? Thanks 😊
Something else of note is I have since upgraded the charging system to an Enduralast setup, which eliminated the diode board and voltage regulator and replaced them with a modern Regulator/Rectifier unit. It also replaces the stock rotor/alternator setup. It simplifies the system a little bit further and will be more reliable long-term.
Thanks! It used to be that you had to make a hall effect sensor to fit the stock cable location - but now you can pick up these adapters at several places that stock Motogadget gear. I think this one came from Revival Cycles.
The OEM charging system is adequate for this battery. It doesn't produce as much voltage as many other bikes so you don't run into the issue with charging the battery at too high a voltage. If it becomes a problem later on down the line I can always swap those parts out.
You’re doing a great job. I’m learning a lot. Keep up the great content. One thing I love about old airheads. They remind me of racing car engines of the 40’s and 50’s.
Thanks. Yeah these old bmw's are so unique!
5:45 The reason you want a fuse on positive wires from the battery is to make sure that if the cable shorts to ground the bike will not burn down. That's why modern cars have fuses close to or on top of the battery.
Seriously appreciate all your videos
Looks awesome!
Screenshot done as you said it 😂
These videos are great! They have been a major resource in my r75/6 wire mod.
Where did that light bucket come from? I ended up with a chrono classic speedo. The old dimples in the bucket are very unsightly.
I believe that was an LSL 6.5" headlight, which I modified to fit the BMW key ignition.
Why did you connect blue cable from alternator to the Aux 1 output? And how did you set up this aux1 output in the app? Should it be giving voltage together with ignition? Why didn't you just take the voltage from red ignition output?
I suppose you could run it from the ignition output. By using Aux 1 I could keep the circuits separate, which makes for fewer wiring connections and a simpler harness. It's been a few years, but I believe I set Aux 1 for 'active after engine start', since the alternator wouldn't be spinning until after engine start anyway.
If you had a lot more accessories to power, then connecting to the ignition output make sense.
What type of resister should I use for that blue wire you mentioned 5 min into the video. I deleted the instrument cluster and my bike seems to not be keep able to hold a charger.
Also, great vid man glad your around. Great resource!
Hi brother, new subscriber and building my first custom airhead 1975 R75/6. I'm deleting the factory gage cluster and I am wondering what resister I should use for the blue wire you mentioned?
I'd suggest a 50ohm/5w resistor - but I'd also like to mention that Enduralast now makes a generator light bypass kit. It's $20, definitely more than a resistor, but it's really simple to install and pretty headache free.
@@roodlum Awesome 👍 Thank you for the information and the reply brother.
Just came across this series and I am loving it. I am at the wiring phase of my build and using the m-unit. One question I do have is are you afraid of road debris or foreign objects off the tire hitting your beautiful antigravity battery?
It's a possibility! if that's the case a re-designed housing might be in order.
What type / level of resister should I use for that blue wire you mentioned 5 min into the vid ? I deleted the instrument cluster and my bike seems to be having trouble hold a charger. Thanks for the great content!
I used a 36ohm 5 watt resistor, which might be a little low as the charging is still a little weak on this bike. I may try a 50 ohm in the future.
Hi there, thanks for the great vid. I’m completely rebuilding a /5 and almost at the point I’m gonna start rewiring. I got the m unit but I’d like to keep the the oem starter, ignition, and charging- like you did here. I’m gonna keep the original battery too. Can you help with some more insights? Can you share your wiring diagram? Thanks 😊
No sweat! I added the wiring diagram to the photo gallery of that bike on the website. Check it out here: www.interstellarmotors.com/jf-bmw/
Something else of note is I have since upgraded the charging system to an Enduralast setup, which eliminated the diode board and voltage regulator and replaced them with a modern Regulator/Rectifier unit. It also replaces the stock rotor/alternator setup. It simplifies the system a little bit further and will be more reliable long-term.
@@roodlum working on that..
Hey Rich, good vid man. A question - where did you get the speed sensor? Who made it? That is the only thing stopping me doing the m unit. Thanks.
Thanks! It used to be that you had to make a hall effect sensor to fit the stock cable location - but now you can pick up these adapters at several places that stock Motogadget gear. I think this one came from Revival Cycles.
@@roodlum ah, right, found it on the motogadget site. Thanks.
How do you have a li-ion battery without a reg/rec for li-ion?
The OEM charging system is adequate for this battery. It doesn't produce as much voltage as many other bikes so you don't run into the issue with charging the battery at too high a voltage. If it becomes a problem later on down the line I can always swap those parts out.
Srpski prevod