I installed this optic on a crossman 760 air rifle.I have now shot the riffle around 500 times during target/plinking practice, and the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope has done well.With this optic, I have neutralized around 30 pigeons that were invading one of my buildings.For my short range air rifle, I will continue to use this scope, but will be upgrading to a more powerful scope, when I buy a more powerful air rifle, in order to shoot at longer distance.For the money I have spent, this scope has truly been a great buy.
"What's the first thing you do when you get a 1.3" group at 1000 yds; change something" I love it, glad i'm not the only who does this, "you can always improve on perfection" to quote my drill instructor at MCRD
I've been following you for a while - it's great how you break things down into simple, easy to understand steps. I'll never shoot at that level, but that's ok - what I learn helps me shoot better, and that's what's important to me.
Thanks Erik! You keep things simple that can overwhelm a lot of shooters. What you do with your videos is first class. It gives a lot of us insight into what it takes to get to higher levels in the shooting sports.
Definitely a cool way to do it.. SO LONG AS YOUR SCOPE RETICLE IS SQUARE with the bottom of the turret.....I would always verify with a tall target with a plumb line. ...Although I got dejavu from watching f class john😉 The near mounts and the Spuhr mounts are works of functional art....
@@emmettdibble8404 Indeed, it would only take a few rounds to make sure its tracking plumb...... I dont think you could make it track perfectly horizontally as it would very with the ammunitions consistency....
Agreed. Every scope manufacturer has an acceptable margin of cant between reticle and scope body. I test scopes on a fixture against a precise moa grid at 100 yards. No need to even fire a shot
that what i do, since i was leveling with the top of turret on my Golden Eagle, and i found the turret is not level vs reticle, so now i double check with a plumber line, and do a tracking/box test at the same time on a big carboard where i drew lines with a 4 foot level.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 the guarantee doesn't mean it isn't canted. it just means you'll get an immediate RMA, as I did when I checked the reticle and found it was canted.
That’s how I level my Nightforce NXS scope as well . But from now on I’ll use rubber bands like Erik , should make it a lot easier than hold the straight edge 😀👍
I like seeing the curly maple on the stocks you use. Shows a little throw back to the flint lock days. Getting the scope cross hairs level is my most difficult part. Never thought to use the bottom like that.
I can definitely appreciate the lubricant on the nuts. Wouldn’t want any unneeded friction. Thanks for the video man, learning new ways to skin kittens keeps the sport interesting. As soon as one thinks he’s got a good bind on his rifle game, 💥 Eric Cortina humbles a guy!
While stationed with the 101st, I've had 1000 yard hits with a 308 M60 Machine gun... will never know where I hit the target but they were hits. (One shot, one hit, yeah got whooped on top of my helmet for not firing a 3 to 5 round burst) That is the extent of my "long range" shooting. I never classified anything under 600 yards "long Range" because that is what we qualified at. Years later, I was shooting hogs and deer at 400+ yards, off hand, one shot one kill! Thanks to shooters like yourself for teaching me how. Just a stupid question... I was taught that 308 was a fantastic long range round, why don't more long range shooters use it? It always worked very well for me.
I did the same with a .50 cal mounted on a humvee at a mile. Just loading in single rounds, my 1st Sargent couldn't believe I was making hits that far. Good memories
You are the man I hope this video stays up for a little while lol TH-cam just isn't what it used to be if it wasn't for people like you I would tell them to well you know and get me a Netflix account or something
I know a lot of people use a level, but since the mounting rail has flats, and the scope has flat on the bottom, why not use, like an allen wrench, underneath and between the scope and rail? you can find a wrench that fits close enough, so that when you twist the wrench it gets "thicker" and takes up any space. When you tighten the scope rings, then the twisted wrench relaxes some. This way you can just use a simple allen wrench and your scope is mounted parallel to the rail. Of course, you need to make sure the rail is parallel to the rifle first. If the rail is not parallel, then this idea won't work and back to the levels.
Hi Erik Who makes that beautiful stock. I belong to the “It’s not how good you shoot that counts, it’s how good you look while shooting that really matters”. 13:43 Thanks. Dan Martin.
This is what I wanted to see a couple years ago until I found the fishing line method to mounting a scope. So far, the fishing line method still seems king and it's genius. Level the rifle, create a plumb bob with fishing line, shine a flashlight through the front of the scope to create a reticle shadow and line up the reticle shadow to the fishing line. It's simply genius. Tighten the scope and before saying you're done, add a scope level to the scope for a cant reference.
Always apply at least 2 clicks with the Torque wrench, for each screw/nut. Always. First round of tightening gets 75%. Going around the world twice. Then finish up at 100%, again, going around the world twice, with a minimum of 2 clicks per screw, each time. It’s always amazing to me how many people don’t really know how to properly use a torque wrench. Erik I appreciate your expertise and content but this torque wrench thing is a pet peeve. What if the reticle is not perfectly aligned/plumb with the scope body? In my experience, with lesser quality scopes, that is often the case.
Setting the Eye relief? lapping the mounts? loving your and F class John's videos I just never see anyone do this mounting a scope and don't understand why?
The top of your pic rail is a machined surface and the bottom of your scope is also a machined surface. Choose the correct size allen wrench or piece of key stock and simply “square” the scope to the action.
always verify. just because the manufacturer may have a guarantee the reticle is leveled to the bottom machined surface doesn't mean it is. i checked and found the reticle was canted. the guarantee just meant the manufacturer provided me an immediate rma when I sent them pictures proving the canted reticle.
That’s a great instruction on setting up your scope and rings, i like the Area 419 scope base for the CZ and Tikka which incorporate a small bubble level. Makes it easy to once mounted level the rifle, and then I still use the old school plumb line and flashlight through the scope to project the crosshairs onto the wall. It works pretty well, but I will buy a small straight edge and try that little trick with the scope as well seems to be a lot easier and seemingly quicker lol hopefully I’ll be able to go to Ben Avery, I go with my friend to watch the Nation’s when I get a chance maybe I’ll be able to say hi and get an autograph or picture with you @Erik Cortina
AT 2:26 PLEASE NEVER EXCEED 60 Degrees Nut rotation after finger tip firm. Max torque is 65 INCH LBS = about 57-58 degrees of rotation, so never exceed 1/6 turn. It is my opinion smallest groups will result from NO oil under the mount or on top of the rail. The shock of recoil vs the negative G shock of the muzzle brake can skid a mount back and forth a few thousandths if it is on oil. A dry surface will prevent any such movement and result in smaller one hole groups. Otherwise a Great video Erik! and good luck shooting!
What does an entry level rifle like that cost. I would love to get in to this but I’m afraid of the total cost. I know that most LRS work up to it. But just wanted to know. Ps Love the fact that you beat Matt on the doling tree. Nice 😏
I see you don't lap your rings, I was told by " people in the know " you install top cap, lap till blu is gone or it gets shiny, reason being, you want the clamps to hold the whole surface and not to "torque" the scope tube. I've done it that way to many rifles I've done and I don't know if it really helps, but I do know I never had a problem with not holding zero. Any thoughts? I used to shoot competition with my AR15 , 2,4,and 600 yards no scope. I still reload everything I own. I watch your channel and learn something new all the time. Thanks and good luck.
Do you still go through the tall target test? I mean, we've gotta know for sure that our verticle adjustment is either plumb bob verticle or slightly left (to counteract spin drift). In my own mind, just because the crosshair is plumb doesn't mean our adjustments are also plumb. We'd like to assume that after spending a couple grand on a scope, that the adjustments are parallel to the reticle. No Gaurantees. Not to mention click variation. I've witnessed some pretty substantial variences from advertised on a few different scopes over the years..? Genuinely curious, Thanks for posting this video.
Make a step by step video for the 400 F-class Reloads your going to do. As well as all the equipment and reason why you use those specific tools for F-class? I learn something every video!!!!
Thx, Eric...thinking about this from a precision machining viewpoint, there are challenges to getting perfect concentricity, or co-linearity, between scope axis and the rifle bore...not only the bore, but, I'm just guessing, the actual path that the bullet takes when it leaves the muzzle, which, maybe, has some kind of bias from the barrel/action/"apparent" vertical/horizontal axes of the rifle... does the bullet really travel concentric to the bore? If you rotated the *barrel* 90 degrees, would the bullet follow the same trajectory? Just wondering... in my simple way... I enjoy, not just the videos, but your 'style'/attitude.
@@greggjohnson7667 what matters is if the cross hairs are level with respect to gravity. it matters not if the scope is level with the rifle. you should have a bubble level on your scope and always check it when shooting.
Erik, Been watching your videos and learning a ton. Not only are you a great home builder and shooter, but you are a great teacher. Scopes are very important in accurate shooting. You can only hit what you can see. Would you do some videos on the scopes you like, and scopes you would recommend for shooters getting started in accurate shooting? Thank you and Merry Christmas.
Another great video I wheeler levels and have mixed feelings on them after this just needed a rubber band and small level seemed better will try soon! Rpr still waiting for load development videos but I know your busy love the channel!!
@@altruisticscoundrel I’m just saying because I shoot a 308 and it beats the equip up pretty bad. I’ve had scopes come loose in the past. Using Ericks way of leveling, at what point would be best to put on the lock tite
I don't know about anyone else but, I didn't see the link come up. Dave Pool mentions you shot that group at 1000 Yrds. If that's the case I presume you meant to say 1.3 moa. I also apply lube to the base screws & wedges. You didn't mention what type of metal that base is constructed from but, if it's that 6061 ALUMINIUM, it's horrible stuff for binding. It clicks & creaks as you're torquing it up. You can never tell if the wedges have pulled in fully. On the subject of mounts, my last 3 sets have been MDT mounts. Two sets of Premier & 1 Elite set. I haven't received the Elite set as yet but, I've been so impressed with the 1st Premier series I used, I purchased another set to mount a 34 mm tube scope while waiting for the Elite 34mm to arrive. So far with both sets of Premiers, when I centre the scope windage, that reticle vertical is dead centre down the bore with both mounts. I ain't never seen that afore.
Beautiful rifle Sir! Have a safe drive to the match, keep us posted on the match progress. Question - Do the F Class National move around the country? I was expecting they would have been at The Whittington Center again.
Interesting, obviously I am just accustomed to our Nationals only moving maybe every 10 years or so. Moving annually seems to add another degree of difficulty but also adds data to your range dope book.
Hello again my friend, some may not like what and how you do what you do, but I’m a huge follower of you, nice work, your like me in some sense, who cares what and how you do things if they seem to work out, they need to stick to what will work for them, stay hard at what you’re doing, I really enjoy your ways..👍🏼
I like your rifles. 1.25 barrels. Also extra heavy action. Is action all stainless? Do I see a pool table? I think that is berry good for mental focus. 👍
i took one of my old Brux barrels in 6mm 1-7.5 that was in 6mm XC from my F-Class rifle the throat was going so i cut it back to 27" and rechambered it to 6mm BRA and put on my BAT model S BR rifle. i worked up a load with 31 gr of Varget and some second hand brass and some Bart's 105 Infinity bullets. went to the range and shot 2. groups 1. at 100 and 1. at 300 both groups looked the same both in the low 2s i didn't touch it till the next 300 yard match i shot a 200/19X with it. i pulled the barrel and put it in the rack and put my Dasher barrel back on because there is no way i could ever duplicate that string. cudos to Brux and Barts for making an old barrel sing one more time. the number one mistake people make with the BRA is pushing it to hard. i like the parallel trick, FYI i will be stealing that. thx.
The level is necessary for dialing the elevation for different distances. The cross hairs aren’t what needs to be level. The elevation turret is what needs to be level. That way when the elevation is dialed in for different ranges the bullet stays closer to the line of sight. I have no experience with Near scope rings but all other rings I have used needed at least a small amount of lapping to get alignment and protect the main tube from scratches or dings.
So you already knew where your eye relief range on this scope is? Sorry for the obvious dumb question. I struggle with eye relief distances. Thanks for great info Eric. 😎👍
I am buying optic this days, and i can’t choose between NF comp 15-55x52 and kahles k1050i Moak? Can you instruct me what to choose? I hear that is NF not for begginers becos it’s hard to look from her
How did you end up with matching rifles, was it intentional or did it just happen overtime? Do you wear out the barrel on one and then switch to your other one or do you keep using the red one all the time and the other is your safe queen? Hopefully with you being sponsored by Lapua you can convince them to make straight 284win brass rather than having to neck up 6.5-284, I hate case prep.
Hey! Newbie here! Watching some of your reloading videos. Is neck sizing different than controlling neck tension? I got some RCBS matchmaster dies and was wondering do I have to have a neck bushing in there? If I do is that what neck sizing is? Or does it still full length size with that bushing in there? Kinda confused lol
I tried the feeler gauge method and was pretty happy with it. not too happy with the finish on my MPA mount but I'm pretty hard on rifles. have you had any issues with it rubbing off?
Plumb line to verify. It's worth mentioning that different shooting disciplines/ range envelopes may require some scope mounting variations, but the fundamentals remain the same; Build the stack from the bottom up, get the eye relief right, true the reticle to horizontal, set correct even tension on the mount and rings, Viola!
Great stuff! I knew there was something about you by the way Demo treated you.......turns out, you are a bad @ss with a rifle.....NOW it clicks! Looking forward to more collabs with Matt!!! Maybe you can get him out to his PB!? Going to go look at some of your older videos now......
I installed this optic on a crossman 760 air rifle.I have now shot the riffle around 500 times during target/plinking practice, and the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope has done well.With this optic, I have neutralized around 30 pigeons that were invading one of my buildings.For my short range air rifle, I will continue to use this scope, but will be upgrading to a more powerful scope, when I buy a more powerful air rifle, in order to shoot at longer distance.For the money I have spent, this scope has truly been a great buy.
"What's the first thing you do when you get a 1.3" group at 1000 yds; change something" I love it, glad i'm not the only who does this, "you can always improve on perfection" to quote my drill instructor at MCRD
Perfect practice makes perfect!
It is a pleasure talking with Richard Near. His rail, is the best rail I have ever had in my hands. The mount is in a class of it's own.
Big like for the rubberband idea. Going to save me some time in the future! ❤
I've been following you for a while - it's great how you break things down into simple, easy to understand steps. I'll never shoot at that level, but that's ok - what I learn helps me shoot better, and that's what's important to me.
Congratulations on your win in Canada! I am Canadian 🇨🇦🇺🇸and in my heart American shooters are my brothers and sisters too.
Thanks Erik! You keep things simple that can overwhelm a lot of shooters. What you do with your videos is first class. It gives a lot of us insight into what it takes to get to higher levels in the shooting sports.
I use drill bits instead of parallels. Just find the right size from top of pic rail to bottom of scope. GTG
Thanks for sharing your rifles for F-Class.
Thumb calibrated to 65 in/lbs.... Love it!
Definitely a cool way to do it..
SO LONG AS YOUR SCOPE RETICLE IS SQUARE with the bottom of the turret.....I would always verify with a tall target with a plumb line.
...Although I got dejavu from watching f class john😉
The near mounts and the Spuhr mounts are works of functional art....
@@emmettdibble8404 Indeed, it would only take a few rounds to make sure its tracking plumb......
I dont think you could make it track perfectly horizontally as it would very with the ammunitions consistency....
Agreed. Every scope manufacturer has an acceptable margin of cant between reticle and scope body. I test scopes on a fixture against a precise moa grid at 100 yards. No need to even fire a shot
NF guarantees the reticle is dead square to the flat on the bottom.
that what i do, since i was leveling with the top of turret on my Golden Eagle, and i found the turret is not level vs reticle, so now i double check with a plumber line, and do a tracking/box test at the same time on a big carboard where i drew lines with a 4 foot level.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 the guarantee doesn't mean it isn't canted. it just means you'll get an immediate RMA, as I did when I checked the reticle and found it was canted.
I love watching your videos, I get a tip or two every time. Rubber band, parallel, great idea.
That’s how I level my Nightforce NXS scope as well . But from now on I’ll use rubber bands like Erik , should make it a lot easier than hold the straight edge 😀👍
I like seeing the curly maple on the stocks you use. Shows a little throw back to the flint lock days. Getting the scope cross hairs level is my most difficult part. Never thought to use the bottom like that.
Love that curly maple aslo beautiful natural
Brux barrels are amazing and Thks for the run down , all this info has helped tremendously So Thks
You cannot help but like Erik! Keep going Sir.
That’s a beautiful rifle.
I always learn something in watching your videos. Thanks. J.
Perfect timing!. Just finished putting together my NRL22 the correct after mounting 5 other scopes the wrong way.
THANKS Erik
I can definitely appreciate the lubricant on the nuts. Wouldn’t want any unneeded friction. Thanks for the video man, learning new ways to skin kittens keeps the sport interesting. As soon as one thinks he’s got a good bind on his rifle game, 💥 Eric Cortina humbles a guy!
While stationed with the 101st, I've had 1000 yard hits with a 308 M60 Machine gun... will never know where I hit the target but they were hits. (One shot, one hit, yeah got whooped on top of my helmet for not firing a 3 to 5 round burst) That is the extent of my "long range" shooting. I never classified anything under 600 yards "long Range" because that is what we qualified at. Years later, I was shooting hogs and deer at 400+ yards, off hand, one shot one kill! Thanks to shooters like yourself for teaching me how. Just a stupid question... I was taught that 308 was a fantastic long range round, why don't more long range shooters use it? It always worked very well for me.
I did the same with a .50 cal mounted on a humvee at a mile. Just loading in single rounds, my 1st Sargent couldn't believe I was making hits that far. Good memories
You are the man I hope this video stays up for a little while lol TH-cam just isn't what it used to be if it wasn't for people like you I would tell them to well you know and get me a Netflix account or something
Good video Erik. You may consider doing a shop tour. Your place looks quite interesting. Stay healthy!
I know a lot of people use a level, but since the mounting rail has flats, and the scope has flat on the bottom, why not use, like an allen wrench, underneath and between the scope and rail? you can find a wrench that fits close enough, so that when you twist the wrench it gets "thicker" and takes up any space. When you tighten the scope rings, then the twisted wrench relaxes some. This way you can just use a simple allen wrench and your scope is mounted parallel to the rail. Of course, you need to make sure the rail is parallel to the rifle first. If the rail is not parallel, then this idea won't work and back to the levels.
The level on the rifle is your reference.
Hi Erik
Who makes that beautiful stock.
I belong to the “It’s not how good you shoot that counts, it’s how good you look while shooting that really matters”. 13:43
Thanks. Dan Martin.
I have had numerous Near MFG scope rings and pic rails. They are top notch!
Thanks so much for that brilliant parallels + rubberband tip! Yes, that's going to save a lot of hassle in the future!
Thank you Sir 👍
This is what I wanted to see a couple years ago until I found the fishing line method to mounting a scope. So far, the fishing line method still seems king and it's genius. Level the rifle, create a plumb bob with fishing line, shine a flashlight through the front of the scope to create a reticle shadow and line up the reticle shadow to the fishing line. It's simply genius. Tighten the scope and before saying you're done, add a scope level to the scope for a cant reference.
Does fishing line show up better than a string made of fabric? Interesting comment. Going to try both.
Always apply at least 2 clicks with the Torque wrench, for each screw/nut. Always. First round of tightening gets 75%. Going around the world twice. Then finish up at 100%, again, going around the world twice, with a minimum of 2 clicks per screw, each time. It’s always amazing to me how many people don’t really know how to properly use a torque wrench. Erik I appreciate your expertise and content but this torque wrench thing is a pet peeve.
What if the reticle is not perfectly aligned/plumb with the scope body? In my experience, with lesser quality scopes, that is often the case.
NF are the ones that told me that they align reticle with bottom of the scope.
A tall target test can be done for verification.
Erik Cortina - Pro Shooter.........Roger that, thanks.
Setting the Eye relief? lapping the mounts? loving your and F class John's videos I just never see anyone do this mounting a scope and don't understand why?
The top of your pic rail is a machined surface and the bottom of your scope is also a machined surface. Choose the correct size allen wrench or piece of key stock and simply “square” the scope to the action.
always verify. just because the manufacturer may have a guarantee the reticle is leveled to the bottom machined surface doesn't mean it is. i checked and found the reticle was canted. the guarantee just meant the manufacturer provided me an immediate rma when I sent them pictures proving the canted reticle.
That’s a great instruction on setting up your scope and rings, i like the Area 419 scope base for the CZ and Tikka which incorporate a small bubble level. Makes it easy to once mounted level the rifle, and then I still use the old school plumb line and flashlight through the scope to project the crosshairs onto the wall. It works pretty well, but I will buy a small straight edge and try that little trick with the scope as well seems to be a lot easier and seemingly quicker lol hopefully I’ll be able to go to Ben Avery, I go with my friend to watch the Nation’s when I get a chance maybe I’ll be able to say hi and get an autograph or picture with you @Erik Cortina
Gorgeous rifle. Your in F-Class mode and I'm in bow hunting mode.
I used to do the rubber band on a flat piece of steel. Now i use a ctk precision scope level. Its got the rubber band built in.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for posting.
AT 2:26 PLEASE NEVER EXCEED 60 Degrees Nut rotation after finger tip firm. Max torque is 65 INCH LBS = about 57-58 degrees of rotation, so never exceed 1/6 turn.
It is my opinion smallest groups will result from NO oil under the mount or on top of the rail. The shock of recoil vs the negative G shock of the muzzle brake can skid a mount back and forth a few thousandths if it is on oil. A dry surface will prevent any such movement and result in smaller one hole groups. Otherwise a Great video Erik! and good luck shooting!
What does an entry level rifle like that cost. I would love to get in to this but I’m afraid of the total cost. I know that most LRS work up to it. But just wanted to know. Ps Love the fact that you beat Matt on the doling tree. Nice 😏
Beautiful rifles. I am going to try the rubber band and parrel trick.
I see you don't lap your rings, I was told by " people in the know " you install top cap, lap till blu is gone or it gets shiny, reason being, you want the clamps to hold the whole surface and not to "torque" the scope tube. I've done it that way to many rifles I've done and I don't know if it really helps, but I do know I never had a problem with not holding zero. Any thoughts? I used to shoot competition with my AR15 , 2,4,and 600 yards no scope. I still reload everything I own. I watch your channel and learn something new all the time. Thanks and good luck.
Do you still go through the tall target test?
I mean, we've gotta know for sure that our verticle adjustment is either plumb bob verticle or slightly left (to counteract spin drift). In my own mind, just because the crosshair is plumb doesn't mean our adjustments are also plumb. We'd like to assume that after spending a couple grand on a scope, that the adjustments are parallel to the reticle. No Gaurantees. Not to mention click variation. I've witnessed some pretty substantial variences from advertised on a few different scopes over the years..? Genuinely curious, Thanks for posting this video.
I pick up my 6br Norma in 5 days cant wait start working up loads try my hand at F class
I know you said you were changing “I hope all your groups are one hole”
But it just fits man. It’s “Your thing”
👍
Really love your videos Erik, thanks for making them!
Well done, keep up the good work
Next time someone questions your advice ask them to show you the sticker on their scope lol
😂
Make a step by step video for the 400 F-class
Reloads your going to do.
As well as all the equipment and reason why you use those specific tools for F-class?
I learn something every video!!!!
Beautiful guns
Thx, Eric...thinking about this from a precision machining viewpoint, there are challenges to getting perfect concentricity, or co-linearity, between scope axis and the rifle bore...not only the bore, but, I'm just guessing, the actual path that the bullet takes when it leaves the muzzle, which, maybe, has some kind of bias from the barrel/action/"apparent" vertical/horizontal axes of the rifle... does the bullet really travel concentric to the bore? If you rotated the *barrel* 90 degrees, would the bullet follow the same trajectory? Just wondering... in my simple way...
I enjoy, not just the videos, but your 'style'/attitude.
Great question...and does it really matter that the cross hairs are plumb/level? What if they were out 7 degrees? Nobody has ever explained that to me
@@greggjohnson7667 what matters is if the cross hairs are level with respect to gravity. it matters not if the scope is level with the rifle. you should have a bubble level on your scope and always check it when shooting.
Smart idea with the plate and rubber band. Sexy rifle too BTW.
Hell yes! I will be using that method from now on!
You should try a dead level from badger ordnance. I never install a scope on the rifle.
Erik,
Been watching your videos and learning a ton. Not only are you a great home builder and shooter, but you are a great teacher.
Scopes are very important in accurate shooting. You can only hit what you can see. Would you do some videos on the scopes you like, and scopes you would recommend for shooters getting started in accurate shooting?
Thank you and Merry Christmas.
Maybe the flats on Nightforce are paralell to the crosshairs but on other brands they are tipically not.
Brilliant info
A Rubber band and a level !!! Thats B.S. !!! I'm gonna package that up and sell it for $50 . May use a red Rubberband my attempt at being funny 😄
When you say 7mm I was wondering witch 7mm family you’re useing, I love my 7mm rem mag, beautiful rifles
Very nice firearms Sir!
I see Jay Christopherson is shooting the cal as well! Noice!
Another great video I wheeler levels and have mixed feelings on them after this just needed a rubber band and small level seemed better will try soon!
Rpr still waiting for load development videos but I know your busy love the channel!!
Just starting point of putting lubricant so the base finds a stress free point changes my approach of using blue loctite so it doesn't shift.
How so? I notice he didn't use any locktite. Would you still use it or disregard it completely?
@@JFT803 I'll have to test. Thinking about it won't beat what actually occurs.
@@altruisticscoundrel I’m just saying because I shoot a 308 and it beats the equip up pretty bad. I’ve had scopes come loose in the past. Using Ericks way of leveling, at what point would be best to put on the lock tite
Thanks
You know I run a retirement home for used NF scopes lol . Shoot straight brother
Thank you very much! Learned something.
Those Kahles scopes are so nice, i sold 3 razors so i can buy a K525iDLR
I don't know about anyone else but, I didn't see the link come up. Dave Pool mentions you shot that group at 1000 Yrds. If that's the case I presume you meant to say 1.3 moa.
I also apply lube to the base screws & wedges. You didn't mention what type of metal that base is constructed from but, if it's that 6061 ALUMINIUM, it's horrible stuff for binding. It clicks & creaks as you're torquing it up. You can never tell if the wedges have pulled in fully.
On the subject of mounts, my last 3 sets have been MDT mounts. Two sets of Premier & 1 Elite set. I haven't received the Elite set as yet but, I've been so impressed with the 1st Premier series I used, I purchased another set to mount a 34 mm tube scope while waiting for the Elite 34mm to arrive. So far with both sets of Premiers, when I centre the scope windage, that reticle vertical is dead centre down the bore with both mounts. I ain't never seen that afore.
No, I meant 1.3 Inches.
th-cam.com/video/f5j7VzBX7GU/w-d-xo.html
@@ErikCortina I get you now. I thought you were having trouble with the rifle. You were talking about that Speedy wishes he'd shot.
Beautiful rifle Sir! Have a safe drive to the match, keep us posted on the match progress.
Question - Do the F Class National move around the country? I was expecting they would have been at The Whittington Center again.
Yes they do. They were at Whittington center last year
Interesting, obviously I am just accustomed to our Nationals only moving maybe every 10 years or so. Moving annually seems to add another degree of difficulty but also adds data to your range dope book.
Hello again my friend, some may not like what and how you do what you do, but I’m a huge follower of you, nice work, your like me in some sense, who cares what and how you do things if they seem to work out, they need to stick to what will work for them, stay hard at what you’re doing, I really enjoy your ways..👍🏼
Do you have a video breaking down all the classes in competitive distance shooting?
Erik, a big like from me. The only problem is I can tell all of this good learning is going to cost me some $$$$$!!!
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Very nice!! Thanks!!
I like your rifles. 1.25 barrels. Also extra heavy action. Is action all stainless?
Do I see a pool table? I think that is berry good for mental focus. 👍
Great information thanks
What du you use to get new recipe if you change a bullet/primer/powder? Books och Quick load? Gordon reloading tool?
Gr8 video thx. Like the look of the Near Mfg bases but it's hard to figure out what to buy from their website.
i took one of my old Brux barrels in 6mm 1-7.5 that was in 6mm XC from my F-Class rifle the throat was going so i cut it back to 27" and rechambered it to 6mm BRA and put on my BAT model S BR rifle. i worked up a load with 31 gr of Varget and some second hand brass and some Bart's 105 Infinity bullets. went to the range and shot 2. groups 1. at 100 and 1. at 300 both groups looked the same both in the low 2s i didn't touch it till the next 300 yard match i shot a 200/19X with it. i pulled the barrel and put it in the rack and put my Dasher barrel back on because there is no way i could ever duplicate that string. cudos to Brux and Barts for making an old barrel sing one more time. the number one mistake people make with the BRA is pushing it to hard. i like the parallel trick, FYI i will be stealing that. thx.
Why wood and not a chassis or synthetic stock?
The level is necessary for dialing the elevation for different distances. The cross hairs aren’t what needs to be level. The elevation turret is what needs to be level. That way when the elevation is dialed in for different ranges the bullet stays closer to the line of sight. I have no experience with Near scope rings but all other rings I have used needed at least a small amount of lapping to get alignment and protect the main tube from scratches or dings.
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Why would you replace the .284 for the other purple rifle, if the .284 is the best?
Can you use Tacom HQ - Charlie Tarac for F Class competition? I was thinking you could, but my data is 20 years old.
I've found with quality gear changes are usually a non issue.
What berger for 284 wheeler and appropriate speed dou get Erik?
So you already knew where your eye relief range on this scope is? Sorry for the obvious dumb question. I struggle with eye relief distances. Thanks for great info Eric. 😎👍
Yes.
I am buying optic this days, and i can’t choose between NF comp 15-55x52 and kahles k1050i Moak? Can you instruct me what to choose? I hear that is NF not for begginers becos it’s hard to look from her
How did you end up with matching rifles, was it intentional or did it just happen overtime?
Do you wear out the barrel on one and then switch to your other one or do you keep using the red one all the time and the other is your safe queen?
Hopefully with you being sponsored by Lapua you can convince them to make straight 284win brass rather than having to neck up 6.5-284, I hate case prep.
Identical rifles was intentional.
I don’t own any safe queens. 😉
I’m just a trigger puller for Lapua. I don’t have a say so on what brass they make. 😁
Hey! Newbie here! Watching some of your reloading videos. Is neck sizing different than controlling neck tension? I got some RCBS matchmaster dies and was wondering do I have to have a neck bushing in there? If I do is that what neck sizing is? Or does it still full length size with that bushing in there? Kinda confused lol
With a proper torque spec ever felt the need for loc tite? Or do you consider that just a crutch for an improperly installed scope?
Eric are you shooting moa or mils? I want my scope to be used for hunting and long range
Does the Kahles have a sfp reticle? How does that go? Do you lose measurement ability at different magnifications?
Why not "Keep them centered"?
Alternating. I also forget sometimes. Lol
nice rifles !
question Eric, how do you know your levels are accurate ? if the bubble is off-everything else is off too !
They sure don't look like 32 inch barrels? 22 inch maybe?
Sure wish I could order one of those EZ-Tuners...........hint...hint
Nice rifle Eric!!! What kind of wood is it?!
I tried the feeler gauge method and was pretty happy with it. not too happy with the finish on my MPA mount but I'm pretty hard on rifles. have you had any issues with it rubbing off?
Murphy's Precision base?
Plumb line to verify. It's worth mentioning that different shooting disciplines/ range envelopes may require some scope mounting variations, but the fundamentals remain the same; Build the stack from the bottom up, get the eye relief right, true the reticle to horizontal, set correct even tension on the mount and rings, Viola!
Waiting for all the FixIt Sticks crowd freak out over the Wheeler Fat Wrench.
Erik, Is that Nightforce scope the "B.E.A.S.T" any good?
Great stuff! I knew there was something about you by the way Demo treated you.......turns out, you are a bad @ss with a rifle.....NOW it clicks! Looking forward to more collabs with Matt!!! Maybe you can get him out to his PB!? Going to go look at some of your older videos now......
Keep the videos coming the likes are going up. 😁