Hey, I need to know can you send slabs to them? I don’t want to risk damaging it, I’d rather that do it if possible: I could accept it if they botch it obviously I get that’s a risk (CGC does it for comics, so I hope PSA would
I know you’re sponsored by PSA but I think card grading has to change their pricing. It shouldnt matter what a cards “value” is at the time of grading to determine the price it cost. And seeing PSA 9’s selling for very close to raw values more often why risk losing money on a 9 when you don’t even know why it’s a 9? It’s a flawed business practice that I can’t believe is still flourishing, for now.
Yea PSA is garbage, they grade MAJOR stream channels and breakers cards on a curve us peasants don't receive. It also matters if you're a $99 member or a $199 member.
@@MrWeirdBeard I would have thought at this point collectors would demand accountability but it seems the chase for a 10 out weighs the reasons it’s not. I can give my own opinion on a card for free but if I put a 10 on it it’s $100 how’s that sound?
I do agree with you on not knowing why your card got a 9, when you thought it should be a 10. There should be some transparency when you receive your items and they did not get a 10 grade! It would be nice to know what to look for that made that card get a 9 or less so it wouldn’t happen again!
@@ighoutdoorssports1492 and that is a huge issue for me. Also quite often you can hold a 9 and a 10 next to each other and you cannot tell a difference. You can crack a 9 resubmit it (pay them more money) and it comes back a 10. That shows the flaws in the process and destroys all credibility for me because the process is subjective which makes the grade no different then if you or I did it
New subscriber here! 👍 I wanted to say thank you for everything you do for the hobby. 👊 I love ❤️ the channel, great work! I’m doing my first PSA submission, and you helped me a lot. 👊 👍
Put a note IN the box with a “if lost return to address”. A breaker I use always sends packages with his address. He says it has helped when packages have been lost in the past. Also takes an honest person..
@03:37 wow! You you just blew my tiny little mind. Thank you for this tip It's always bugged my that i would damage stuff trying to pull penny sleeves out of top loaders
25 dollars per card includes review and wipedown. So don't worry about cleaning your cards. Leave it to psa when you submit. Psa has no minimum requirements. You can send anywhere from 1 to as many cards as you want. Hope this helps
Hello Ian, I did find out when you fill out the declared value on each card, to just put the max value “250” (if that is what the special is for that submission) because no matter what you put, PSA will adjust to the correct value at the time it’s done and the grade it has. It saves a boat load of time trying to look up the value of each card, especially if you have a big submission. I learned that from the TH-camr Chasing cardboard. Can’t remember his name, but I have been doing that ever since I saw that episode he did about submissions and it’s been a big weight lifted off my shoulders. And I believe he said you didn’t want to put a value way less than what it would actually be worth in case something does happen. Which makes sense. Good educational video!
Just me… I took advantage of the new year deal also with close to 100 cards. I generally break them in bundles of 25 then put them in cardboard. So in order 1-25, 26-50 etc etc so 4 stacks of cards in cardboard. Then I wrapped them in bubble wrap larger bubbles with 3 wrap arounds. As for insurance I still have never heard of anyone having luck based on the value of their cards if they were lost or damaged. The fedex person I talked with said your better off going through a 3rd party to be protected. You just don’t know what fedex would deem the value of your product. Also (fedex) said if the value exceeds a certain amount you would have to show them how the cards were packaged. I now ship via usps and just print and package everything myself with not much insurance. If you or anyone can point me to a story that they lost or damaged cards and insurance covered it I would love to read/watch it. Great video with easy to understand steps.
If you add sign here tabs (with the arrows) or post-it sticky tabs (like the ones that are used for textbooks, you can stick them to the penny sleeve and the grader can pull the card out by the tab without having to manipulate the semi-rigid card holder or stick their fingers into the semi-rigid card holder...this lessens the chance of a grader catching a fingernail on the top of your card...also prevents any other kind of finger damage.
Love the channel. One thing that I do when sending cards to PSA is before I put them into the Ultra-Pro semi rigid holders I use Post-it arrow flags on the back of the penny sleeve so when they get the card they don't have to try to dig it out of the holder they can just grab the flag and pull it out easily
This all sounds great to us that don’t grade cards but these are all bad practices. They want them in card savers when sending in because they use a machine to slice open the card saver to retrieve the card. They do this to keep from damaging the card like what could happen if digging in a top loader to get it out as you mentioned. PSA has posted a lot of good “how to submit” videos lately that show the process they prefer customers use when submitting cards. They don’t go into the detail this video does as far as how to get the best grades so this video is great for that.
As far as wiping the cord off, I used microfiber before and it works pretty well, but I’ll tell you the best thing in the world, but you just have to be very careful is compressed air like duster from a distance. It works amazing. Second of all I don’t use a magnifying magnifying glass magnifying glass. I use a digital coin microscope for a coin, collectors or people who do a lot of soldering electronics and stuff I mean 20 bucks dude hook straight up to your laptop or your desktop or even your phone I mean really bright LEDs build into it or whatever actually I have an extra one just give it to you. You know you won’t go back to a magnifying glass once you use that two cents, but let me know if you want me to send you that microscope super super good investment like I said I’ll just give it to you. Keep up the good work.
I would all cards in one team bag, then use the cardboard to put on sides, wrap up team bag and just tape it over the top after sealing the team bag as well. It just makes it easier for grader to take out cards to grade.
Ian, thanks for this video brother. I am sending a Chet Holmgren rookie auto 3/5 in to be graded. Ive asked a couple people who I should use. PSA seems to be the best one?! Not sure what to declare value though?! But, I am very thankful for knowing how to prep it now. Thanks bro! 🤜🤛
People said PSA's the best? Maybe for card value because of the slab, but their grading is wildly inconsistent, very long turnaround times, and no explanation of why you got the grade you got on the card. If you're looking to resell, then PSA. Looking for an actually accurate grade with a report or subgrade on the card, TAG or SGC.
I personally do not give gloves as it can give the false illusion of proper handling. But everyone has their preference! Also I advise not getting insurance when sending TO PSA. From PSA, yes get insurance (they will add it onto their shipping charge). You are sending cards to get graded and it is not a sale, therefore it doesn't fall under most insurance terms.
I pay less and dont deal with any of the hassle of packing by just going to my local card shop, hes a certified diamond dealer and I just pay 20 bucks.
I put all of my big cards in one touches immediately. I don’t bother putting them in a sleeve and then a top loader. That two chances to cause damage to the card as opposed to just setting it a one touch.
😂 you have alot higher chance of scratches in a one touch than 99% of sleeve and toploaders. Cards move around a ton in one touches. Only one touch a card you plan to keep and not move around much.
Yes, any tape used inside the box needs to be folded over 1/2"-3/4" at one end so it is easy for the grader to remove. You may want to downplay some of the values for insurance to keep your shipping costs down since the cost to ship is commensurate with the insurance amount claimed. I've been shipping for over 20 years and I've never had an insured package lost. Trust me, USPS pays close attention to insured packages. If a package is lost or damaged, I've heard it's quite the process to file a claim. Also, I use the USPS Priority Mail Boxes. A little more to ship but they arrive quicker and are free at the post office.
I just started looking close at my non-sports cards, I look at them with a large magnifying glass and use calipers to verify the centering, also once I'm satisfied with the centering I look at them with a loupe, and even with a loupe I still miss things. I also prefer TAG even though they're somewhat new at grading, I prefer consistency, while I think they're still tweaking their standards and it's not perfect system, a machine is not going to come to work having a bad day(lets hope not), or lack of sleep, or coming down from a night of partying ect. I might be way off and part of the minority this is just my opinion.
Love the content!! Anyway you could post a link to the Magnifying/ Light you have. I’ve been needing to get one and I love how bright that light shines to clearly show the surface. Thanks in advance!
25 dollars per card includes review and wipedown. So don't worry about cleaning your cards. Leave it to psa when you submit. Psa has no minimum requirements. You can send anywhere from 1 to as many cards as you want. Hope this helps
What do we do if it's not showing on their site, and they're not responding to your I inquiry? I submitted them to their address and it shows delivered, then it vanished off the site and I'm seeing another card in its place.
I cannot stress enough that you MUST use a loupe. I always see these videos from so many card collectors and it is baffling how common it is that people complain about the results but yet do not take the time to put their cards under the level of scrutiny that grading companies use or close to the same methods. You didn't check a single corner. More importantly, using the eye-test method to look for imperfections is the worst method. Use a loupe.
The "neater" your submission the better. Cut the ends of any tape used inside the packaging. If you can't print legibly in block letters, print anything out that is pertinent to the submission. When a grader opens the package, they will see that you took some time and effort shipping and submitting your order.
This is interesting. What about older cards, before 2000. I have a few that have perfect corners/edges, but some minor surface scrapes or dimples. Obviously a card from like 2016 and now will have a better chance of staying perfect, but do they take anything into consideration when it comes to older/more rare cards?
I was wondering the same but I bought a Deion sanders rookie at a ps8… Looking I can’t see anything wrong … tempted to crack it but I would say they grade on the same curve.
@@changedman7627 I mean if a different person were to grade card there's a possibility it can get a 9. But the older the card the higher chance something happens to it. But yet the older the more rare, and so it would make sense to keep grading even more strict. Because an old PSA 10 vs 9 is huge. I have a few old Favres I would love to grade, personally I think they can be 10, but if they don't get 10s then it just doesn't make sense to grade them imo. I have a ton of refractors but they have minor scratches on them otherwise they are perfect. 🤔 Though I got some nice Steph Currys I know would be fine as PSA 9. I'm very tempted to send like 5-10 cards in. Maybe in a few years.
@@coltoncyr2283 The hobby is ruined in my opinion… I have a Barry Sanders PSA9 rookie a 10 goes for $2,200… Mine at 9 goes for $50. It’s not about the money but then it is if the gap is that wide. If you send your cards in and they come back less than a 10 they’re pretty much worthless. I collect for the fun of it but want to know what I’m collecting has some value. Anything less than a 10 is shunned.
I even bought hobby boxes everything considered a hit was damaged out the box… couldn’t even get them graded… Off centering, garbage autos,nicked corners, print lines, all in one box. Will just let other guys go through the hassle and will cherry pick the 10’s I can afford.
@@changedman7627 it's also hype based. I used to collect when I was very young. Just got back into it and learning. Something didn't add up. Why some cards are worth more than Kobe's. Found out it's all hype based. BUT once the hype goes away it's scooping time! Still don't agree to it. Like Stroud may never win a SB but his cards are going for hundreds now. I just scooped up some nice Brady cards #d for the cost of 1 Stroud card 😆
I just found a collection that was in the attic for almost 25 years. Have the entire Pokemon base set and apparently one card is worth $2,500 in PSA 10 but like $500 PSA 9. I don't know what option to choose at PSA to submit it because I don't actually know what grade it is or the true value...
That answer is dependent on which service level you are using, but most do not have a minimum. If you look at their pricing guide on their website, it will tell you the minimum requirements, if any.
I found it incredibly helpful when handling cards in top loaders and sleeves. First and foremost, never punch the card out; this can cause it to bounce around and slide within the loader, whether you notice it or not. Also, pinching the loader to crack it open is a definite no-no. To keep your cards in pristine condition, invest in the sleeves and loaders you intend to use until they need replacement. I recommend placing sticky tabs on the backs of the sleeves instead of the cards themselves. This allows you to pull the tab easily, ensuring a smooth removal of the card. Through my decade of collecting, I've observed that the less you handle your cards or flip through binders, the better. Believe it or not, each time a binder is moved, it increases the chance of imperfections occurring. Once you identify a card worth keeping, secure it away safely. Don’t worry about others’ opinions regarding your collection. Take pictures before stashing them away, and only remove and change their storage every few years, based on your storage methods. If anyone needs additional tips or hacks, I’d be more than happy to share some useful tricks! I do admire this channels dedication and hope this channels open to a variety of followers and
So in case I missed it sorry, is declared value what a 10 goes for? Are you supposed to pay based on what it's worth when they are done? Or what they go for raw? What is declared value based on?
My question is what if you have a T-206 Ty Cobb Polar Bear in great shape I think it's a 7 the most I could get on Max declared value is 2,500. I guess there isnt any question but why isn't there higher declared values?
I never wipe card while holding it and always wipe card from center outwards so not to snag a corner. Also actual graders don’t use gloves because they can easily snag on card as well.
A couple of questions as I have never submitted. 1 - If sending 50-60 cards, can you bundle them in say 15-20 card bundles? I can just see a grader removing packaging from a 50-60 card submission and them spilling out everywhere. 2 - What about shipping in toploaders, one size larger than your card and using painters tape to "pinch" the top (with 1/2"-3/4" folded on one end for easy removal). This way the card comes out with no effort instead of the grader having to squeeze the card saver and having to reach in to get it. This would be quicker and also lessen the possible damage the grader could cause removing it from the card saver? Any thoughts anyone? Thanks
When submitting a large stack of cards, would it be better to break the stack into two or three smaller stacks when you package them up? It looks like if it isn't taped tight enough, there's enough space for the cards to slide around. Even though they'll probably be okay if they do slide around, you'd still want to minimize any movement during shipment.
There isn't an easy answer to this question, but there is usually something else to point to. One thing I like to do is find the same exact card of a different player that has sold, then find a card that has sold for both players, and calculate the difference. Apply that multiplier to the first sale.
Grading should have never been done on 1-10 scale. When this all started, the argument for it was that it was more about authentication, due to all the counterfeiting. The grading part should have been done like the old Beckett price guides.
likely no unless there is a flaw. a flaw on back will kill value. traditionally gum stain or if corners on back damage. good question as there are likely some high graded cards where if you look at the back there could be an issue. Especially on high value 10's the back is important.😀
So why wouldn’t you put $250 declared value on each order, cuz if they get a 10 and prices shoot up in the time it took for them to get to grading them and something happens, you could put $100 but say now it’s worth $200 and something happens to it, they only refund you $100
I'm not sure I can agree with your approach, the first 5 cards are gradable and if you don't get them graded they won't be protected at their highest obtainable grade, I would consider sending your 8's to a lesser grading company that grades for much less than the top 5 graders...
No he's actually correct bud. If they have 0 shot at a 10 he's smart by not sending. Now days a psa 8 or psa 9 is pretty damn close to raw value so why pay psa anything? You clearly don't sell much because not 1 person should use any other grader outside of the top couple. Unless they are cards for your personal collection there is 0 point grading a card that will be a psa 8
Yea PSA is garbage, they grade MAJOR stream channels and breakers cards on a curve us peasants don't receive. It also matters if you're a $99 member or a $199 member and if the grader happens to not be a fan of your team or player you definitely ain't gettin a 10
I didn't read all of the comments but I think those semi-rigid top loaders are horrible!!! Whenever I buy any cards off TH-cam and they send it in a semi-rigid you practically damage the card getting it out of there and one guy actually sent me like 10 cards in one semi-rigid!
One thing I do with chrome cards, it's ok to dab a little bit of water on it and use your cloth to get rid of prints and dust. It also really makes the card pop and lets me see minor print lines and other blemishes I may not have seen previously. Biggest advice, BE PICKY. If it is for PC that is one thing, but if you are flipping it, it is ok to sell it raw. Also, big values on your card don't matter to them, but it will your wallet for insurance there and back.
Other tips...
Hey, I need to know can you send slabs to them? I don’t want to risk damaging it, I’d rather that do it if possible: I could accept it if they botch it obviously I get that’s a risk (CGC does it for comics, so I hope PSA would
How do I submit for a honorable mention?? My son hit the 1/1 common Langford out of 24 Finest
@@thecatwrangler9448 no
I know you’re sponsored by PSA but I think card grading has to change their pricing. It shouldnt matter what a cards “value” is at the time of grading to determine the price it cost. And seeing PSA 9’s selling for very close to raw values more often why risk losing money on a 9 when you don’t even know why it’s a 9? It’s a flawed business practice that I can’t believe is still flourishing, for now.
Yea PSA is garbage, they grade MAJOR stream channels and breakers cards on a curve us peasants don't receive. It also matters if you're a $99 member or a $199 member.
@@MrWeirdBeard I would have thought at this point collectors would demand accountability but it seems the chase for a 10 out weighs the reasons it’s not. I can give my own opinion on a card for free but if I put a 10 on it it’s $100 how’s that sound?
I do agree with you on not knowing why your card got a 9, when you thought it should be a 10. There should be some transparency when you receive your items and they did not get a 10 grade! It would be nice to know what to look for that made that card get a 9 or less so it wouldn’t happen again!
@@ighoutdoorssports1492 and that is a huge issue for me. Also quite often you can hold a 9 and a 10 next to each other and you cannot tell a difference. You can crack a 9 resubmit it (pay them more money) and it comes back a 10. That shows the flaws in the process and destroys all credibility for me because the process is subjective which makes the grade no different then if you or I did it
It's not for everyone
New subscriber here! 👍 I wanted to say thank you for everything you do for the hobby. 👊 I love ❤️ the channel, great work! I’m doing my first PSA submission, and you helped me a lot. 👊 👍
Put a note IN the box with a “if lost return to address”. A breaker I use always sends packages with his address. He says it has helped when packages have been lost in the past. Also takes an honest person..
Can’t lie, the title is actually pretty funny. 10 items to GET psa 10s. You cracked the code
I think so too
@03:37 wow! You you just blew my tiny little mind. Thank you for this tip
It's always bugged my that i would damage stuff trying to pull penny sleeves out of top loaders
Very informative, I haven't ever submitted any cards for grading so this really helps. I appreciate the video and good luck on your card grades.
25 dollars per card includes review and wipedown. So don't worry about cleaning your cards. Leave it to psa when you submit.
Psa has no minimum requirements. You can send anywhere from 1 to as many cards as you want.
Hope this helps
Hello Ian, I did find out when you fill out the declared value on each card, to just put the max value “250” (if that is what the special is for that submission) because no matter what you put, PSA will adjust to the correct value at the time it’s done and the grade it has. It saves a boat load of time trying to look up the value of each card, especially if you have a big submission. I learned that from the TH-camr Chasing cardboard. Can’t remember his name, but I have been doing that ever since I saw that episode he did about submissions and it’s been a big weight lifted off my shoulders. And I believe he said you didn’t want to put a value way less than what it would actually be worth in case something does happen. Which makes sense. Good educational video!
Super helpful video man thank you!
Just me… I took advantage of the new year deal also with close to 100 cards. I generally break them in bundles of 25 then put them in cardboard. So in order 1-25, 26-50 etc etc so 4 stacks of cards in cardboard. Then I wrapped them in bubble wrap larger bubbles with 3 wrap arounds. As for insurance I still have never heard of anyone having luck based on the value of their cards if they were lost or damaged. The fedex person I talked with said your better off going through a 3rd party to be protected. You just don’t know what fedex would deem the value of your product. Also (fedex) said if the value exceeds a certain amount you would have to show them how the cards were packaged. I now ship via usps and just print and package everything myself with not much insurance. If you or anyone can point me to a story that they lost or damaged cards and insurance covered it I would love to read/watch it. Great video with easy to understand steps.
I agree, you can drop it off at your LCS, too to check everything, it might cost a little more but I would advise to use a 3rd party for big cards.
If you add sign here tabs (with the arrows) or post-it sticky tabs (like the ones that are used for textbooks, you can stick them to the penny sleeve and the grader can pull the card out by the tab without having to manipulate the semi-rigid card holder or stick their fingers into the semi-rigid card holder...this lessens the chance of a grader catching a fingernail on the top of your card...also prevents any other kind of finger damage.
Love the channel. One thing that I do when sending cards to PSA is before I put them into the Ultra-Pro semi rigid holders I use Post-it arrow flags on the back of the penny sleeve so when they get the card they don't have to try to dig it out of the holder they can just grab the flag and pull it out easily
They cut the side of the rigid holder to remove the card.
PSA actually came out a year or two ago and said they prefer people to not do this
Ok thank you. I didn't know that
@@skateordie165 exactly what I was going to say. These are all the things that PSA said specifically not to do.
This all sounds great to us that don’t grade cards but these are all bad practices. They want them in card savers when sending in because they use a machine to slice open the card saver to retrieve the card. They do this to keep from damaging the card like what could happen if digging in a top loader to get it out as you mentioned. PSA has posted a lot of good “how to submit” videos lately that show the process they prefer customers use when submitting cards. They don’t go into the detail this video does as far as how to get the best grades so this video is great for that.
As far as wiping the cord off, I used microfiber before and it works pretty well, but I’ll tell you the best thing in the world, but you just have to be very careful is compressed air like duster from a distance. It works amazing. Second of all I don’t use a magnifying magnifying glass magnifying glass. I use a digital coin microscope for a coin, collectors or people who do a lot of soldering electronics and stuff I mean 20 bucks dude hook straight up to your laptop or your desktop or even your phone I mean really bright LEDs build into it or whatever actually I have an extra one just give it to you. You know you won’t go back to a magnifying glass once you use that two cents, but let me know if you want me to send you that microscope super super good investment like I said I’ll just give it to you. Keep up the good work.
For insurance purposes I always declare my cards at max submission value. Those were some nice cards that Brady Zebra was sic
I've heard others say the same, and that is fine. You'll just end up spending a little more on the cost of insurance.
I would all cards in one team bag, then use the cardboard to put on sides, wrap up team bag and just tape it over the top after sealing the team bag as well. It just makes it easier for grader to take out cards to grade.
Ian, thanks for this video brother. I am sending a Chet Holmgren rookie auto 3/5 in to be graded. Ive asked a couple people who I should use. PSA seems to be the best one?! Not sure what to declare value though?! But, I am very thankful for knowing how to prep it now. Thanks bro! 🤜🤛
PSA would be my preference! No problem!
People said PSA's the best? Maybe for card value because of the slab, but their grading is wildly inconsistent, very long turnaround times, and no explanation of why you got the grade you got on the card. If you're looking to resell, then PSA. Looking for an actually accurate grade with a report or subgrade on the card, TAG or SGC.
I personally do not give gloves as it can give the false illusion of proper handling. But everyone has their preference! Also I advise not getting insurance when sending TO PSA. From PSA, yes get insurance (they will add it onto their shipping charge). You are sending cards to get graded and it is not a sale, therefore it doesn't fall under most insurance terms.
I pay less and dont deal with any of the hassle of packing by just going to my local card shop, hes a certified diamond dealer and I just pay 20 bucks.
Nice video man and I have seen putting the cards in one touches help you get 10s a lot better
I put all of my big cards in one touches immediately. I don’t bother putting them in a sleeve and then a top loader. That two chances to cause damage to the card as opposed to just setting it a one touch.
😂 you have alot higher chance of scratches in a one touch than 99% of sleeve and toploaders. Cards move around a ton in one touches. Only one touch a card you plan to keep and not move around much.
Yes, any tape used inside the box needs to be folded over 1/2"-3/4" at one end so it is easy for the grader to remove. You may want to downplay some of the values for insurance to keep your shipping costs down since the cost to ship is commensurate with the insurance amount claimed. I've been shipping for over 20 years and I've never had an insured package lost. Trust me, USPS pays close attention to insured packages. If a package is lost or damaged, I've heard it's quite the process to file a claim. Also, I use the USPS Priority Mail Boxes. A little more to ship but they arrive quicker and are free at the post office.
That 🦓 Brady ended up gemming , nice .
Hey, you did a great job! I just noticed that they do not want tape over bar code on side of box. Thank You!
I just started looking close at my non-sports cards, I look at them with a large magnifying glass and use calipers to verify the centering, also once I'm satisfied with the centering I look at them with a loupe, and even with a loupe I still miss things. I also prefer TAG even though they're somewhat new at grading, I prefer consistency, while I think they're still tweaking their standards and it's not perfect system, a machine is not going to come to work having a bad day(lets hope not), or lack of sleep, or coming down from a night of partying ect. I might be way off and part of the minority this is just my opinion.
Love the content!! Anyway you could post a link to the Magnifying/ Light you have. I’ve been needing to get one and I love how bright that light shines to clearly show the surface.
Thanks in advance!
Ian great video as usual
Great vid and tips. Thank you.
I've sent in several cards with faint print lines and gotten gems .. love you videos tho bud
$1000 !!!
You BETTER hope you get some 10's!
25 dollars per card includes review and wipedown. So don't worry about cleaning your cards. Leave it to psa when you submit.
Psa has no minimum requirements. You can send anywhere from 1 to as many cards as you want.
Hope this helps
@IFSportsCards, any chance there is a reveal for this big dog ~70 ish card submission?
What do we do if it's not showing on their site, and they're not responding to your I inquiry? I submitted them to their address and it shows delivered, then it vanished off the site and I'm seeing another card in its place.
I cannot stress enough that you MUST use a loupe. I always see these videos from so many card collectors and it is baffling how common it is that people complain about the results but yet do not take the time to put their cards under the level of scrutiny that grading companies use or close to the same methods. You didn't check a single corner. More importantly, using the eye-test method to look for imperfections is the worst method. Use a loupe.
The loupe is a must. Corners and edges aren’t always as crisp as you think they are.
Thing is I see cards that have bad corners from the naked eye and off centered and still get a psa 10
I would love stream videos of you cleaning your cards a couple times a year
What are the lights and lamp looking thing that are attached to your desk
The "neater" your submission the better. Cut the ends of any tape used inside the packaging. If you can't print legibly in block letters, print anything out that is pertinent to the submission. When a grader opens the package, they will see that you took some time and effort shipping and submitting your order.
This is interesting. What about older cards, before 2000. I have a few that have perfect corners/edges, but some minor surface scrapes or dimples. Obviously a card from like 2016 and now will have a better chance of staying perfect, but do they take anything into consideration when it comes to older/more rare cards?
I was wondering the same but I bought a Deion sanders rookie at a ps8… Looking I can’t see anything wrong … tempted to crack it but I would say they grade on the same curve.
@@changedman7627 I mean if a different person were to grade card there's a possibility it can get a 9.
But the older the card the higher chance something happens to it. But yet the older the more rare, and so it would make sense to keep grading even more strict. Because an old PSA 10 vs 9 is huge.
I have a few old Favres I would love to grade, personally I think they can be 10, but if they don't get 10s then it just doesn't make sense to grade them imo. I have a ton of refractors but they have minor scratches on them otherwise they are perfect. 🤔
Though I got some nice Steph Currys I know would be fine as PSA 9. I'm very tempted to send like 5-10 cards in. Maybe in a few years.
@@coltoncyr2283 The hobby is ruined in my opinion… I have a Barry Sanders PSA9 rookie a 10 goes for $2,200… Mine at 9 goes for $50. It’s not about the money but then it is if the gap is that wide. If you send your cards in and they come back less than a 10 they’re pretty much worthless. I collect for the fun of it but want to know what I’m collecting has some value. Anything less than a 10 is shunned.
I even bought hobby boxes everything considered a hit was damaged out the box… couldn’t even get them graded… Off centering, garbage autos,nicked corners, print lines, all in one box. Will just let other guys go through the hassle and will cherry pick the 10’s I can afford.
@@changedman7627 it's also hype based. I used to collect when I was very young. Just got back into it and learning. Something didn't add up. Why some cards are worth more than Kobe's. Found out it's all hype based.
BUT once the hype goes away it's scooping time!
Still don't agree to it. Like Stroud may never win a SB but his cards are going for hundreds now. I just scooped up some nice Brady cards #d for the cost of 1 Stroud card 😆
Great video once again Ty sir
Great detailed video, question will a 55 point card into a Card Saver I ?
Great video, Let me know what that CJ Stroud (1st card) grade came back as.
Does it matter if you send two of the exact same card in same package? Does hurt chances of both getting highest grade? Doesn't matter?
so the card value you have to put on psa is it the raw price or the graded price??
Is the max declared value for the cards raw price or is it psa 10 or 9 price?
psa 10 price
It is the value of the card after being graded.
@@IFSportsCards Thank you!
I added a max declared value for a Pujols RC. PSA damaged the card making it worthless. They paid me roughly the raw price. Use anyone else
I just found a collection that was in the attic for almost 25 years. Have the entire Pokemon base set and apparently one card is worth $2,500 in PSA 10 but like $500 PSA 9. I don't know what option to choose at PSA to submit it because I don't actually know what grade it is or the true value...
Thanks for the tips buddy. The only question I have is “ WHAT IS THE MINIMUM OF CARDS THAT WE CAN SEND TO PSA??” Thanks buddy. Aloha
That answer is dependent on which service level you are using, but most do not have a minimum. If you look at their pricing guide on their website, it will tell you the minimum requirements, if any.
@@IFSportsCards THANK YOU. ALOHA
I found it incredibly helpful when handling cards in top loaders and sleeves. First and foremost, never punch the card out; this can cause it to bounce around and slide within the loader, whether you notice it or not. Also, pinching the loader to crack it open is a definite no-no.
To keep your cards in pristine condition, invest in the sleeves and loaders you intend to use until they need replacement. I recommend placing sticky tabs on the backs of the sleeves instead of the cards themselves. This allows you to pull the tab easily, ensuring a smooth removal of the card.
Through my decade of collecting, I've observed that the less you handle your cards or flip through binders, the better. Believe it or not, each time a binder is moved, it increases the chance of imperfections occurring.
Once you identify a card worth keeping, secure it away safely. Don’t worry about others’ opinions regarding your collection. Take pictures before stashing them away, and only remove and change their storage every few years, based on your storage methods.
If anyone needs additional tips or hacks, I’d be more than happy to share some useful tricks!
I do admire this channels dedication and hope this channels open to a variety of followers and
How do you prepare thicker cards for submission? RPAs, 130 Point Cards, etc.? Thanks
i’ve heard usps doesn’t do insurance on cards on the way to grading
If you have a card valued in the $1,000 to $2000 range and you do see a flaw, would you submit it anyway?
So in case I missed it sorry, is declared value what a 10 goes for? Are you supposed to pay based on what it's worth when they are done? Or what they go for raw? What is declared value based on?
Do you need to use a regular printer or can you use thermal
Question I bought a PSA card on eBay. The question I have is how can I tell if it’s actually a legit PSA graded card ?
My question is what if you have a T-206 Ty Cobb Polar Bear in great shape I think it's a 7 the most I could get on Max declared value is 2,500. I guess there isnt any question but why isn't there higher declared values?
I never wipe card while holding it and always wipe card from center outwards so not to snag a corner. Also actual graders don’t use gloves because they can easily snag on card as well.
The wiping away from center is a great tip that I did not mention! Thank you!
A couple of questions as I have never submitted.
1 - If sending 50-60 cards, can you bundle them in say 15-20 card bundles? I can just see a grader removing packaging from a 50-60 card submission and them spilling out everywhere.
2 - What about shipping in toploaders, one size larger than your card and using painters tape to "pinch" the top (with 1/2"-3/4" folded on one end for easy removal). This way the card comes out with no effort instead of the grader having to squeeze the card saver and having to reach in to get it. This would be quicker and also lessen the possible damage the grader could cause removing it from the card saver?
Any thoughts anyone? Thanks
Was the cost for all that 1k . It cost to submit?
When submitting a large stack of cards, would it be better to break the stack into two or three smaller stacks when you package them up? It looks like if it isn't taped tight enough, there's enough space for the cards to slide around. Even though they'll probably be okay if they do slide around, you'd still want to minimize any movement during shipment.
This is probably not a terrible suggestion! As long as they are still in order, there is no reason not to do this. Thank you!
*Holding bubble wrap*
"Grab some bubble uh, whatever this stuffs called"
how do you do with thick cards that don't fit cardsavers?
Question- So what value do i put on a card if i cant find any comparative comps for it?
There isn't an easy answer to this question, but there is usually something else to point to. One thing I like to do is find the same exact card of a different player that has sold, then find a card that has sold for both players, and calculate the difference. Apply that multiplier to the first sale.
That pink Richardson is so off center how is that even in the pile of potentials to send in
You should write down what you are unsure of on the cards you send in. Then you will have notes for your reveal video.
You mean to tell me psa. doesn't clean cards after they grade it??
Grading should have never been done on 1-10 scale. When this all started, the argument for it was that it was more about authentication, due to all the counterfeiting. The grading part should have been done like the old Beckett price guides.
What happens if ou get several high valued cards but you can't afford psa interest!
Then sell one or two to pay for the grading on the other or don't ask. Psa isn't free
Does the back really pull as mutch weight as the front??
likely no unless there is a flaw. a flaw on back will kill value. traditionally gum stain or if corners on back damage. good question as there are likely some high graded cards where if you look at the back there could be an issue. Especially on high value 10's the back is important.😀
That's enough to hurt hurt's grade for sure 😁
So why wouldn’t you put $250 declared value on each order, cuz if they get a 10 and prices shoot up in the time it took for them to get to grading them and something happens, you could put $100 but say now it’s worth $200 and something happens to it, they only refund you $100
I'm not sure I can agree with your approach, the first 5 cards are gradable and if you don't get them graded they won't be protected at their highest obtainable grade, I would consider sending your 8's to a lesser grading company that grades for much less than the top 5 graders...
No he's actually correct bud. If they have 0 shot at a 10 he's smart by not sending. Now days a psa 8 or psa 9 is pretty damn close to raw value so why pay psa anything? You clearly don't sell much because not 1 person should use any other grader outside of the top couple. Unless they are cards for your personal collection there is 0 point grading a card that will be a psa 8
@@socom2wasgreat542 in 20-30 years PSA BGS SGC Will all be OOB
Yea PSA is garbage, they grade MAJOR stream channels and breakers cards on a curve us peasants don't receive. It also matters if you're a $99 member or a $199 member and if the grader happens to not be a fan of your team or player you definitely ain't gettin a 10
U need nicholas cage from national treasure movie to grade cards..if they get government documents to shine..these would be easy
I didn't read all of the comments but I think those semi-rigid top loaders are horrible!!! Whenever I buy any cards off TH-cam and they send it in a semi-rigid you practically damage the card getting it out of there and one guy actually sent me like 10 cards in one semi-rigid!
One thing I do with chrome cards, it's ok to dab a little bit of water on it and use your cloth to get rid of prints and dust. It also really makes the card pop and lets me see minor print lines and other blemishes I may not have seen previously. Biggest advice, BE PICKY. If it is for PC that is one thing, but if you are flipping it, it is ok to sell it raw. Also, big values on your card don't matter to them, but it will your wallet for insurance there and back.
i been sending to sgc in top loaders. i jacked up a card trying to put in a ultra pro. Im not very gentle so once it gos in i dont want to touch lol
Just have 10 cards and have psa sponsor your channel, easiest way to get 10s
Just a fyi. Almost every newer card from mosaic, optic, and prizm have some sort of print lines on the back.
Yep sure do. Bought a hobby box so bad couldn’t even send in for grading…
Bubble wrap.
Only one item is really needed to get a PSA 10: be one of their preferred customers
You left out that you also need to be a SPORTS CARD INFLUENCER or get sponsored on YOU TUBE by PSA to have a better chance at getting a 10..LOL
Why do think fingerprints appear on cards. Graders dont use gloves. FACTS!! Prove me or anybody wrong. Just a thought.
Grown man with braces 😆 🤣